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Best Selling Genuine Gmc Exhaust Manifolds

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Dorman
2003 GMC Sierra 3500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - GMC Sierra 3500 V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2001 GMC Yukon XL 1500 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; Federal -Tier 1 Emissions
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - GMC Yukon XL 1500
Dorman
1999 GMC Sierra 2500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.3L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; Exc.Air Pump
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Block Engine CID CC
1999 - GMC Sierra 2500 Extended Cab Pickup V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
Dorman
2001 GMC Sierra 2500 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; Exc.CalifExc.LEV Spec
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - GMC Sierra 2500
Dorman
2000 GMC Yukon Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.3L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; Except Electric Air Injection Reactor System
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - GMC Yukon V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
Dorman
2009 GMC Sierra 1500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.8L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [GMB0100][2]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - GMC Sierra 1500 V 8 Cyl 4.8L 294 -
Dorman
2009 GMC Yukon Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [GMB0060][2]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - GMC Yukon V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2009 GMC Sierra 1500 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [GMB0085][2]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2009 - GMC Sierra 1500 ELECTRIC/GAS
Dorman
2009 GMC Savana 3500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [Gmb146][Pos.1]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Wheel FeedBase Block Engine CID CC
2009 - GMC Savana 3500 177.0 V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2005 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; Calif, LEV Spec
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2005 - GMC Sierra 2500 HD GAS V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2005 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; Exc.Calif, Exc.LEV, Exc.LEV Spec
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2005 - GMC Sierra 2500 HD GAS V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2004 GMC Savana 3500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-2F91815    W0133-1866522  New

Qty:
$131.66
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; Calif
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - GMC Savana 3500 V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2005 GMC Savana 2500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.8L Dorman

P311-3F45A04    W0133-1866523  New

Qty:
$194.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - GMC Savana 2500 V 8 Cyl 4.8L 294 -
Dorman
2003 GMC Savana 3500 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-3F45A04    W0133-1866523  New

Qty:
$194.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; California - ULEV & Federal
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Savana 3500
Dorman
2009 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-3F45A04    W0133-1866523  New

Qty:
$194.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [Gmb208][Pos.1]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Wheel FeedBase Block Engine CID CC
2009 - GMC Sierra 3500 HD SLE Extended Cab Pickup 133.0 V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2009 GMC Savana 3500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.8L Dorman

P311-3F45A04    W0133-1866523  New

Qty:
$194.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [Gmb145][Pos.1]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Wheel FeedBase Block Engine CID CC
2009 - GMC Savana 3500 155.0 V 8 Cyl 4.8L 294 -
Dorman
2010 GMC Yukon Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.2L Dorman

P311-3F45A04    W0133-1866523  New

Qty:
$194.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [Gmb032][Pos.1]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - GMC Yukon V 8 Cyl 6.2L 376 6162
Dorman
2009 GMC Yukon Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-3F45A04    W0133-1866523  New

Qty:
$194.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [GMB0095][2]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2009 - GMC Yukon 0
Dorman
2009 GMC Yukon Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-3F45A04    W0133-1866523  New

Qty:
$194.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [GMB0060][2]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - GMC Yukon V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2009 GMC Sierra 1500 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-3F45A04    W0133-1866523  New

Qty:
$194.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; [GMB0085][2]
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2009 - GMC Sierra 1500 ELECTRIC/GAS

Latest Gmc Repair and Exhaust Manifold Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

92 GMC 2500 no fuel

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From devildog4001 on 92 GMC 2500 no fuel

have a 1992 GMC Sierra 2500 4x4. It has the 5.7l/350 small block engine. The engine will turn over but will not start. At the moment it has no exhaust manifold and shoots very weak flames from the exhaust ports on the heads while it is attempting to start.

I have just replaced the heads on the truck with brand new heads. It has all new seals (head gasket, intake manifold, TBI, etc...) and all bolts were cranked down in the proper order to the proper torque. It has a new distributor cap and rotor and brand new plugs. I have checked the timing by lining the marks on the harmonic balancer with the timing marks and cyl 1 was at TDC. The rotor is pointed at the number 1 position with this configuration and I have attempted flipping it 180 degrees. I am getting fuel to the tbi and it is spraying from the jets just fine. The plugs are getting a spark (light and yellow but there).

When I remove the plugs and turn the engine I do not smell gas. When I unplug them and turn the engine they come out dry and I do not smell gas.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

The 1st quick check I would suggest is to get a spark tester (not a old spark plug or screwdriver) and wind it out to 40kv. Then hook it to the coil wire and check your output, it should be able to jump that gap with no problems.

A weak coil will produce a spark in the open but won't be able to jump a plug gap under compression..........


1996 GMC Pickup Died and Now Won't Start

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From djdavis75 on 1996 GMC Pickup Died and Now Won't Start

My vehicle is a 1996 GMC Sierra SL C1500 2WD Pickup with a 4.3L V6 engine and automatic transmission. The truck has about 180,000 miles on it. I've had some problems with it in the past which can be read here:

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/1996_GMC_Pickup_Wont_Start_P35678/

I know I ended up putting plugs, wires, cap, rotor, camshaft position sensor (One in the distributor.), and a coil on it. Anyway it's been running great for years since that time I had all the problems with it.

On Thanksgiving day we started the truck and moved it into the yard to load/unload some stuff as we were about to drive it on a trip. We started and moved it twice, short distances both times. We then checked the oil, power steering fluid, and added some antifreeze to the overflow tank (It has a slow water leak.). After that we headed out on our 130 mile trip, but after about 4 or 5 miles the truck cut out a couple of times and died. It has not restarted or even attempted to start since. We finally towed it back home and started working on it.

The starter works and engine turns freely, but we did notice some arcing on the starter. We replaced the starter and the arcing problem is solved. I don't think that has anything to do with my main problem, but thought I'd mention it. We've checked for spark from the coil wire and the #1 cylinder wire and the ignition system seems to be totally dead. When cranking it doesn't hit even a little bit.

Here are some things we've tried to fix it/diagnose it:

(1) We've checked the fuel pressure, it's in the 55-60psi range at key on and while cranking.
(2) Checked to ensure I had power across all fuses in the Fuse/Relay Center under the hood.
(3) Replaced cap and rotor. (I've had trouble with moisture/corrosion in the distributor cap on this truck before, it was corroded.)
(4) There is 12V to one of the connector pins at the coil with the key on.
(5) Did an Ohm test on the coil according to the repair manual and it seems good, and the readings are almost identical to a coil on another vehicle.
(6) Tried another ignition module (One by the coil.) from a working vehicle.
(7) Tried a different cam shaft position sensor from a non-working vehicle (So it could possibly be bad).
(8) Tried a new coil wire.
(9) Unplugged and inspected the connectors on about everything ignition system related.
(10) Charged battery and cleaned terminals.

The computer had 3 error codes when I hooked it up:

(1) P1864 TCC Ckt (Think this was a transmission code of some sort.)
(2) P0175 (Think this means the fuel mixture was too rich, which might have been caused when the ignition system failed.)
(3) P???? (I didn't write it down, it's always set, says my catalyst efficiency is below threshold. It's been setting this code a long time.)

I cleared the codes on Thanksgiving after I read them, and since then the computer hasn't reported any error codes.

I'm at a loss on what to do next, I figured it was just a corroded cap/rotor, but that didn't fix it. I can't figure out why I have no spark, no error codes, and nothing seems to fix it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
David

Response From djdavis75

I tried starting it again today, the exhaust smelled like raw gas. We tried spraying starting fluid into the intake and it made no difference.

Finally we put a coil off a junked out truck on it, and it started right up. So it was a bad ignition coil, even though it checked good by the service manual's testing method.

Thank you to everyone for your assistance with this problem, it is appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

Glad you got it resolved.

I'll close this now as solved to keep the spammers out

Response From Discretesignals

How comes I never get lucky when I do swaptronics? My luck was so bad that I had to go buy expensive test equipment...

Ya, service manual tells you to ohm check it, which unless it is an open circuit, is a inconclusive test. Best way to check ignition coils is with a scope, IMO, because a coil might check perfectly fine with an ohm meter, but fail in real world conditions.

Glad to read you got it on the road again

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Unsure of how you tested for spark and question results and parts swapping.


First thing I'd see if this will respond to priming throttle body with starting fluid. I don't trust your fuel pressure results either and that's critical. Your range was correct but was it accurate? Was it delivered or just pressure at rail? I say verify that first then worry about if spark or not,


T

Response From djdavis75 Top Rated Answer


Unsure of how you tested for spark and question results and parts swapping.

Tested spark several ways...

(1) Inserted plug in #1 wire and grounded outside of plug to engine via contact. Plug didn't spark.
(2) Inserted screwdriver in #1 plug wire and held very close to exhaust manifold, no spark.
(3) Inserted screwdriver in coil wire and held close to engine block, no spark.
(4) Did test 3 with spark plug wire attached directly to coil.


First thing I'd see if this will respond to priming throttle body with starting fluid.


I'll try it tomorrow.


I don't trust your fuel pressure results either and that's critical. Your range was correct but was it accurate? Was it delivered or just pressure at rail? I say verify that first then worry about if spark or not,


Fuel pressure was tested with a fuel pressure gauge at the port on the line on top of the engine, I don't know any other way to test it.

After cranking I could smell gas around the engine with top off air intake butterfly.

Response From Hammer Time

You're fuel pressure is low and on this engine, that is enough to cause this. This engine is very pressure sensitive. The fuel pressure spec is 60 to 66 PSI. Look for a section of rubber hose in the return line and try pinching it off to see if the pump is capable of going any higher. If not, replace the pump.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You tell me HT - I did find spec of 55-60 was the range for '96 4.3 but didn't specify if Vortec here or at look up? I thought most were as you posted for those, any engine and wouldn't start if specs were off that much and this game is over if so - lower pressure than it can run on,


T

Response From Hammer Time

FUEL PRESSURE

  1. Ignition "OFF" for 10 Seconds.
  2. With ignition "ON," engine "OFF" and fuel pump running, pressure should be 415-455 kPa (60-66 psi).

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In fairness to OP for this the spec is available WRONG and I thought it was wrong. No info would be more helpful than wrong.


Doubting it I suggested priming it for a reaction and if that reacted would have dug harder to prove what was correct. Sorry to OP that the info you seemed to find was wrong as well which would send someone on to some other issue wasting time, parts not needed for what is now clear. Pressure too low.


Just a note of minor interest: Had one unfortunately intermittent but ran always but part time would be just harder to start and less power than usual then go away by the time any testing could happen. Finally, just caught it absolutely sure showing just 58 PSI max and once was enough and the diagnosis finished. This issue is NOT intermittent which actually helps to peg it down but wrong info sure didn't help!


T >>>> See if this shows on edit what I found.............Complete with typos in it!


*****************************************************************

1996 GMC Truck C1500 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 4.3L SFI 6cylThe Fuel System Pressure

55-61 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch)Vent the fuel tank vapors by loosening the fuel cap.Position the ignition switch and the A/C system in theoff position. Install a fuel pressure gauge to thevehicles fuel pressure valve.Confirm that no leaks are present, and with the keyon, engine off verify the PSI reading on the gauge.

Response From Hammer Time

I'm not sure what you are trying to say here Tom but the spec I posted is absolutely correct. This is info issued from the factory service manual.

You may be looking at the Mitchell info which happens to lump both SFI and CFI fuel systems together and only give you the spec for SFI which is 56-61, however that is not the system used in this engine.

Again I state the fuel pressure spec for this engine is 60 - 66PSI.

Please stop confusing the poster.

Response From Discretesignals

We've checked for spark from the coil wire and the #1 cylinder wire and the ignition system seems to be totally dead.

I'd be more concerned as to why there is no ignition coil output.

Response From Hammer Time

True

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Out of all that try the priming it test. Others still inconclusive and you just proved it with telling me about the screwdriver and spark testing. Fine, let's get some REAL info.


Fuel: Smelling it isn't proof it's where it belongs.


Let me know how the suggested test works,


T

95 GMC rebuilt tran won't go into overdrive

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From Sandman on 95 GMC rebuilt tran won't go into overdrive

Hey folks, hoping someone can give me some advice here..and I really hope this isn't too confusing. I've researched high and low and checked everything I can think of and here's where I'm at on a 1995 GMC Sierra k1500 5.7 4x4 210k miles:
2 weeks ago I rebuilt the transfer case, dropped the pan to replace the tran filter and replaced the fluid lost from the drop. Everything worked fine after that except it was slipping bad in reverse, and a little in first. While I was waiting on parts for the transfer case rebuild, I replaced my exhaust manifolds, radiator hoses, thermostat, power steering hoses, idler/pitman arms, tie rods, and ball joints. (I've been busy). For the past year it would randomly give me one click when I tried to start the truck. If I kept trying it would eventually start. I replaced the starter a while back and new battery. It still does it sometimes and has been getting worse so I got a brand new starter (not rebuilt) and replaced the ignition switch, tumbler, and neutral safety switch. I also added a push button starter for emergency situations. I should add, my battery has been relocated to the bed of the truck so I also went through all grounds throughout the truck, polished the attach points and made sure they're all secure. The clicking instead of starting problem has gone away. Ok now that we've cleared up everything I did electrically.
So here I am today, tranny shop can't hit overdrive so they tell me something else is wrong with the truck. (Overdrive worked when I dropped it off at their shop). They did say the put a new neutral safety switch on, test drove again, got it to hit overdrive, but then they shifted to 3rd to check lockup and it wouldn't get overdrive again. so..
Here's what I've done today: I Rechecked all grounds on the truck. Polished every bit of contact. I pulled the column again and checked voltage at all wires on the ignition switch. Every wire has about the same voltage, around 12.6 when I turn the key on, and over 13.5 when it's running. I check the power to the transmission harness and it reads the same. One thing I noticed right when I got it back from them was the tran pan kept looking like it's dripping. When I check the voltage at the wiring harness on the transmission, it's all wet there. As I'm popping the harness back on the connector, it moves and fluid starts coming out. So I get that pulled up tight and it stops leaking, and I'll be showing the shop that on Monday.
What else should I check?? I've read the engine might not be at temp and might not allow overdrive to work. Could a faulty thermostat cause that? The whole time I keep test driving it, the engine is running at about 180 degrees. I wouldn't think I got a faulty ignition switch since the voltage is consistent across all appropriate wires. I have no fuses out. Checked voltage at both sides of each fuse and nothing is wrong there. Live scan wasn't showing them anything but there could still be the possibility a solenoid isn't working correctly from their rebuild, right? Any help is appreciated!

Response From Sandman

Oh ya more info, There are no warnings on the instrument panel. The instrument panel is working and all lights do light up when starting. Vehicle speed is accurate and 1-2 2-3 shifts feel perfect. Brake switch is working correctly. Cruise control is working.

Response From Discretesignals

Someone needs to connect up a high end scan tool that can access the manufacture side of the PCM. Then they need to monitor the TCC solenoid command. They will also need to verify that the TCC solenoid command is occurring by either monitoring voltage at the TCC solenoid circuit at the PCM connector using a volt meter or an oscilloscope to verify circuit integrity. If everything looks fine electrically, then you have a mechanical problem inside the transmission or torque converter.

Response From Sandman

Thanks for that info. I'm assuming that's what the transmission shop was doing when he said he did a live scan, got no error codes and all his work is correct. I think he was also getting annoyed he already put an extra day into troubleshooting it. I'm going to call him Monday morning and have him check all that I guess. Everything else I've checked electronically seems perfect.

Response From Sandman Top Rated Answer

I took the truck back to the trans shop yesterday morning after I had exhausted all checks that I could on my own. Just got the truck back, fixed and running perfectly (I hope it's not a coincidence haha). He went over everything they did, replaced the wiring harness, and through his search ended up finding the manifold pressure switch was bad. He through a new one in and it has worked perfectly over multiple test drives. On the drive home the truck was shifting perfectly through all gears. Hope that was the problem! Thanks for the help

Response From nickwarner

A bad manifold pressure switch would cause that issue. Glad you got it resolved.

Response From Discretesignals

manifold pressure switch? Is that on the exhaust manifold?

Response From nickwarner

Its next to the muffler belt.

2nd EGR Valve in 6 months?

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From lachance4107 on 2nd EGR Valve in 6 months?

Hi, I have a 2001 GMC Yukon. An issue with it started back in October 2013 where after 30 or so minutes of driving (Assuming when the engine gets to a certain temp. maybe?) it will stall out if I let it idle under 1k RPM. So anytime I'm at a stop light or making a turn or going under 25mph my solution has been to drop it into neutral (Even though its an automatic) and rev it up to a constant 1.5 - 2 RPMs to keep it from stalling on me. It also goes through a full tank of coolant in about 2 months, not sure if that's related or there is just a minor leak. In November of last year I replaced my EGR valve and things seemed to be fine until today when the same problem started again today. I would greatly appreciate any help as the way I have to improvise, although I'm being as soft as I can with it, is probably beginning to harm the transmission. Please help!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

What happens with these EGR valves is they are not defective. The engine builds up carbon in the exhaust manifold and it breaks off in chunks and gets caught in the EGR pintle as it passes through. Remove trhe valve and examine the pintle to see if a chunk of carbon is holding it open.

Response From lachance4107

Great, just found out I don't have the right size socket with me at the moment to remove the valve. Thanks for the advice though, I'll be checking that out asap