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Have you checked the base timing on it?
What is the fuel pressure?
Have you tried disabling one cylinder at a time to see if the noise changes or goes away? It's also possible that you have a dead hole that you will find by disabling cylinders.

It's really hard to say what it could be without hearing the noise. You have any friends that have broadband?

thanks for the advice I will try everything you mentioned next time I have a chance to ( stupid work keeping me from my car haha) I will try and get the video up, anymore advice is still appreiecated as I will try it all in the next day or so.

Just FYI: Links not generally allowed but if your car specific no problem. Try some free sites for pics if needed and just post the link. I'll try to convert it to a real pic for the post and I'm no geek at this crap.

Good luck. Been there with dial up and may again if the cable to house breaks in Winter. Works but slow,

T

Great job posting that video. That will probably give you better results.

That doesn't sound too good at all. I don't believe that is spark knock. Sounds like a connecting rod/bearing. Or maybe a piston is smashing into something. Any damaged spark plugs?

Maybe others will respond to this thread and give their opinion.

You might have to pull the oil pan and check for loose or extreme play in the big end of the rods. You probably won't be able to spin it fast enough by hand to cause the noise to occur. It's the change of direction of the rod/crank and a failed bearing that makes a noise similar to the one in your video.

Sometimes you can disable a cylinder one at a time. Rod noise will change pitch.

Okay so i had a day off so I changed some lifters and redid the timing and it still had the noise so I moved the cam shaft angle sensor thing and I could get it to idle decently with no knock but then when I try to rev it it will bog down and if I just hold the gas on the car dies. when it was knocking I could still rev it.

That is actually the crank angle sensor. You can adjust the timing with that. There is a connector that you have to ground out so you can adjust base timing using a timing light and a mark on the crank pulley while rotating the crank angle sensor. Pulling the timing back or retarding it will make the engine really sluggish and have low manifold vacuum. Advancing it will increase responsiveness, but can cause it to ping or detonate.

In the video that sounded like rod knock, but if that is detonation at idle I would be surprised. Maybe retarding the timing caused the knock to go away because the cylinder pressures where low enough to take the pounding off the rod bearings. If you have too much cylinder pressure from high compression or over advancement for some odd reason, retarding will also take pressure away if detonation is the source of that noise.

What you could do is connect up your timing light and with the engine running look at the mark and scale at the crank pulley and see what the ignition timing is at. If you have a timing light with an advance dial you can figure how much the ECM is advancing the timing if the mark is off the scale. Base timing is 5 degrees BTDC and when the ECM is controlling timing it will be advanced around 8 degrees BTDC. It will probably fluctuate when the ECM is in control.

If timing looks good and your not running some radical compression ratio or having high cylinder pressures in combustion chambers igniting fuel before the spark occurs, you probably looking at a mechanical problem.

Okay so today I started the car up and I noticed it was smoking from the o2 sensor so I replaced it with a spare when I took the sensor out it was all black on the end so I assumed it was bad I put in my spare but it's still smoking, could a bad o2 sensor be causing my problems? the spare I put in was from a 91 mine is a 90 do I need to buy a brand new specific sensor?

2 cents worth: Check at any parts site to see if it's the same part #. Smoking?! IDK - any grease or penetrating oil used taking its time to burn off? Threads stripped?

T

there was no oil or grease or anything on either of them and when I went to take it out it was on there really tight so it couldn't had been just loose or something like that, I'm not sure what to do I don't want to go buy a brand new one and the same thing happen, especially if it has nothing to do with why the car is running like shit

I've yet to get my hands on a timing light But went to check the ignition timing and noticed I didn't even have the lower timing belt cover with the marks on it so I'm guessing that the ignition is out of time if it doesn't even have the cover for it ( idiot that had it before me) I'm hoping this is my problem! Now to find a damn timing light :P

I know it's not clear at sign up but spammers and jerks try to advertise and the site runs on pennies from some ads paid for so links to outside interests just can't stand. Mods pay attention and we are doing well so far at keeping a free site and the lights are still on.

Smile,

Tom