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Dorman
1995 Chrysler Sebring Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.0L Dorman

P311-56DA402    W0133-1671830  New

Qty:
$94.71
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Chrysler Sebring L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1996
Dorman
2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-49FA9A4    W0133-1671316  New

Qty:
$148.07
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2007 - Chrysler PT Cruiser Naturally Aspirated
Mopar
2007 Chrysler Aspen Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.7L Mopar

P311-5836901    W0133-1764654  New

Qty:
$158.08
Mopar Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chrysler Aspen V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Dorman
2007 Chrysler Aspen Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.7L Dorman

P311-479495F    W0133-1675490  New

Qty:
$146.93
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Left
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chrysler Aspen V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Dorman
2000 Chrysler Voyager Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.4L Dorman

P311-16C20FD    674-553  New

4781086AA , 4621498 , 101182

Qty:
$86.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Exhaust Manifold Inlet Port Shape: Oval
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Chrysler Voyager L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 2429
Dorman
1999 Chrysler Voyager Exhaust Manifold - Rear 6 Cyl 3.3L Dorman

P311-1743FF9    674-514  New

4621662 , 101257

Qty:
$62.26
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Rear
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Chrysler Voyager Rear V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301
Dorman
2010 Chrysler PT Cruiser Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-0B083A9    674-662  New

4884233AA , 101394 , 4884460AA

Qty:
$91.93
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Exhaust Manifold Inlet Port Shape: Rectangle
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
Dorman
1999 Chrysler Voyager Exhaust Manifold - Front 6 Cyl 3.3L Dorman

P311-533BFE0    674-513  New

4448009 , 101256

Qty:
$67.13
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Front
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Chrysler Voyager Front V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301
Dorman
1980 Chrysler Town & Country Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-066E475    674-232  New

3744827 , 2951841 , 4267233 , 101006 , 3671860 , 4100445 , 4186239 , 3744830 , 4105425

Qty:
$262.85
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Exhaust Manifold Inlet Port Shape: Square
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Chrysler Town & Country
Dorman
1997 Chrysler Neon Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.0L Dorman

P311-377265C    674-281  New

5083073AA , 4667714 , 101126

Qty:
$70.26
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Exhaust Manifold Inlet Port Shape: Oval
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Chrysler Neon DOHC L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1996
Dorman
2008 Chrysler Aspen Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-1F563E7    W0133-2113122  New

Qty:
$145.74
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Chrysler Aspen V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Dorman
2007 Chrysler Aspen Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.7L Dorman

P311-44E5932    W0133-1764654  New

Qty:
$133.76
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chrysler Aspen V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Dorman
2011 Chrysler 200 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-40591D8    W0133-1875955  New

Qty:
$236.06
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2011 - Chrysler 200 ED3
Mopar
2010 Chrysler Town & Country Exhaust Manifold Mopar

P311-02337B8    W0133-1876367  New

Qty:
$288.68
Mopar Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Cylinder Head Type
2010 - Chrysler Town & Country Touring SOHC
Mopar
2010 Chrysler Town & Country Exhaust Manifold Mopar

P311-51ABBB4    W0133-1875829  New

Qty:
$192.97
Mopar Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Cylinder Head Type
2010 - Chrysler Town & Country Touring SOHC
Mopar
2010 Chrysler 300 Exhaust Manifold 6 Cyl 2.7L Mopar

P311-4A2137F    W0133-1771767  New

Qty:
$260.20
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Chrysler 300 V 6 Cyl 2.7L 167 2736
Mopar
2005 Chrysler 300 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.7L Mopar

P311-1A72DCD    W0133-1771768  New

Qty:
$268.76
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chrysler 300 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Mopar
2005 Chrysler 300 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.7L Mopar

P311-18BC533    W0133-1771765  New

Qty:
$226.90
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chrysler 300 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Mopar
2009 Chrysler Aspen Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.7L Mopar

P311-5EF5207    W0133-2846418  New

Qty:
$151.69
Mopar Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Chrysler Aspen V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Mopar
2009 Chrysler Aspen Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.7L Mopar

P311-5EF5207    W0133-2846418  New

Qty:
$151.69
Mopar Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Chrysler Aspen V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -

Latest Chrysler Repair and Exhaust Manifold Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2008 chrysler town and country engine runs cold but heater is super hot

Showing 6 out of 12 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From richard45750 on 2008 chrysler town and country engine runs cold but heater is super hot

Hi and thank you for any help at all that you can give mr. I have a 2008 chrysler town and country touring with a 3.8
my issue just started or at least I just noticed it. My engine runs cold but my heater blows really good hot air. After driving it on the interstate for 20 miles and pulling over to pop the hood I can literally run my finger all along the exhaust manifold all the way up to the block and not get burnt at all. My engine just does not produce heat the way it used to. Nobody in this area seems to know what the issue is. When I call people to ask questions they don't believe me. Because my heater blows hot air to the point where it hurts if you hold your hand there to long they say it is impossible for my engine to be running cold. So that is my issue. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. There was someone at advance I showed it too and he had everyone look at it and Noone could think up any reason at all.

Response From Discretesignals

You should connect a scan tool up and look at the ECT data PID to see what the engine coolant temperature actually is. If the engine was running too cold, the PCM should be flagging a P0128 code.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not sure you have a problem at all. It's freaking cold out and some engines (at least some older ones) would run exhaust out thru just one exhaust manifold for a time to heat up intake faster so it would run well when that cold.


Mods can find where your message came from by general location and when that much below zero anything can cool down that fast.


Does temp gauge read cold but heater works fine? That doesn't add up if so,


T

Response From richard45750

No the temp Guage is reading between the quarter and halfway mark. About midway in between the two. And lol it is freakin cold and maybe it has something or everything to do with that. But I checked under the hood of a friends car and his was way hotter. Like normal hot. So that is where my concern came in at. But that bieng said I have never messed with my engine in winter before so maybe I'm concerned about nothing. Just would like to be better safe than sorry.

Response From Hammer Time

Just maybe your fan is running when his wasn't blowing that ice cold air onto the exhaust manifold.

If the heater is hot, then the inside of the engine is just fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sounds normal so far. It's cold - I'm in that shat too not quite as bad but used to the scoop. Engine fans can and do run especially when vehicle's heater setting is for either both defrost and floor settings or just defrost which would cool the crap out of the exterior of the engine not inside it with the coolant which reads fine and expect that too no matter how cold.


Just driving along adds wild extra wind chilling force too so no surprise yet IMO. I try hard not to have to open a hood outside in that cold at all thank you.


If just curious about this go get an infrared touchless thermo. Radio Shack or other place has them the size of a key fob.


Ahhhhh - I'd rather if you must test temps like exhaust manifold you NOT use your hands no matter what the weather you can't be sure exactly so don't do that again by hand test,


T

Response From richard45750

I couldn't get anything accomplished on monday. But when I did get to see the mechanic the engine was producing heat. So I assume everyone here was right. He did not have a way to check for that code and when I did open the hood for him and it was warm we decided not to try and go further with it.
thank you very much for replying so fast to my post. I hope I don't ever have to work on my van in the cold again. Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome.

Closing this now as solved.

Response From Discretesignals

Drive on down here to Florida. I'm pretty sure you won't be able to touch the exhaust manifold without leaving some skin on it...

Response From richard45750 Top Rated Answer

I will do that monday. And post what I find out.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what you think you need assistance with but you don't have a problem.

Response From richard45750

I googled this issue but could not find a situation like mine. Everybody who had a cold running engine didn't have heat. It took 45 minutes for my engines Guage to get to the halfway mark and even after running it for 45 minutes then driving on the interstate for 20 miles I could still run my finger along the engine block and exhaust manifold and not get burned.
I want to thank you for helping me and responding so fast but could you tell me why it is the way it is? 2 weeks ago my engine got hot enough I could have cooked on it.

95 Chrysler Cirrus Oil Leaks at Exhaust Studs

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mibf350 on 95 Chrysler Cirrus Oil Leaks at Exhaust Studs

Auto Specs: 95 Chrysler Cirrus, 2.5L V6 (Misubishi), 211350 Miles.

GENERAL: This is a help my daughters "friend" that turned into a project. Car purchased from a tow yard so no maintenance history available. Ran OK - Oil all over lower engine and frame - vacuum leaks.

OIL LEAK REPAIRS: Replaced valve cover gaskets, cam seals, oil pressure sender.

OTHER REPAIRS: Replaced timing belt with idler and tension rollers, water pump and inlet tube, accessory belts, intake and injector gaskets, vacuum tubing as needed, rear brake shoes and drums, radiator flush.

Engine runs OK after repairs.

PROBLEM: Oil is leaking/seeping around the exhaust manifold studs. Specifically the lower row of studs on both exhaust manifolds but only the first three studs from the front of the engine.

Oil was present in these areas before repairs. I wiped excess oil, drips etc. and ran the engine after repairs, inspecting for leaks, water, oil etc. I can see the oil squeezing out between the flat washer and nut on the studs described. I have wiped this down several times, and no oil is coming down from the valve covers or head gaskets. The exhaust manifold is completely dry and devoid of any oil except along the lower stud web of the manifold. The oil forms sufficient to drip off the tip of the stud in about 5 minutes of idling.

Inspecting the heads on the car and other online pictures it appears there may be an oil channel that runs behind the lower row of exhaust studs from the front of the head that ends between the third and fourth stud. Also note no oil is coming out at the fourth stud on either manifold. The car does not smoke and the exhaust gaskets are tight and intact.

The remedy would appear to be resealing the stud threads in the head but I have never seen this problem before on any engine. I do not have any familiarity with this engine so if anyone out there does I would appreciate your input.

Thanks, MIB.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You have to be wrong about this. None of it makes any sense at all. There is no oil galley placed that close to exhaust. Oil could not survive in that environment. The head could be crack in one specific area but that wouldn't spread over the entire manifold.

Chrysler Oxygen sensor help

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From valleybusman on Chrysler Oxygen sensor help

I have a 95 Chrysler Concorde with a 3.5 enegine and the car has 164000 miles on her . Well the other day she wouldn't start so I hooked my OTC 4000 tester and it said cam and crank sensor were okay . I used the same tool for the coil and it checked out . So I put my foot to the floor and cranked and after awhile she started up . I took her for a testdrive and the check engine light cam on . Checked for codes and got a 51 saying low voltage . Okay so I figured the sensors are bad . I need to know where they are . I took the car in and replaced the catalytic and while under there I saw something sticking out of the pipes in front of converter. Guy said those were oxygen sensors . Book says exhaust manifold who's right . Sorry if I am long winded here !

Response From Hammer Time

That tool you have isn't a magic diagnosis box and doesn't tell you as much as you think it does. That code doesn't necessarily mean a bad sensor. It means you have a lean condition and now you have to determine why the old fashioned way.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I do know that OTC 4000 and cartridge had the capability to do ATM tests. Maybe that is how he found the coil was good. You could tell if you had crank pulse by looking at the RPM pid in the data stream while cranking the engine. Not sure about the cam sensor though.

Response From Mr.scotty

Yes, those things sticking out of the exhaust pipe were more then likely oxygen sensors.
A picture of what your talking about would help also is you feel the need.

2003 Chrysler Town and Country fuel injection system

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From jdrandolph on 2003 Chrysler Town and Country fuel injection system

Guys,

I was reading another post that i found on the site an it sounds alot like my problem. I have listed below for your reference. I have a few differences, but mostly the same. Here it is. http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Electrical_and_Wiring_F6/Dodge_Caravan_Injector_hell_P50742/ .


Before i go any further i should tell you the circustance with which this started. I stopped and filled up my car at the gas station, and started on an hour long trip. The car started missing horably and then speedometer and the temperature guage started acting eratically. Then the alternator light came on. I pulled over and turned off the car. After looking at everything under the hood, i decided to see what would happen i f irestarted the car. I started with no problem, no lights or anthing except the check engine light. The speedometer and stuff worked fine. I had to do this two or 3 times to get back home. When i got home, i pulled the codes off the compter and got the following codes. P-0106, P-0123, P-1478, and P-168.4. I replaced the map sensor, cleared the codes and none of those codes reappeard and the check engine light was off. I drove to town the next day. The car drove great. Problem solved i thought. Then the missing started on my way back home. None of those codes ever returned except the last and that is related to disconnecting the battery.


When i got back home i ready the codes, expecting to see the same codes and to find out the map sensor was not the problem at all. This time i got the P0204 code. If the vehicle runs long enough, the p0304 will come on as well. I have replace the spark plugs and wires. I have not done everything that was done in the previous post, but i have taken it apart several times and to no avail. My engine misses all the time. If i clear the code, it comes back immediately. I have looked for a visual damaged area on the wiring harness, but have not found one yet. To verify that it was not the injector, i swapped the #4 and #6 injectors and still have the same problem. I disconnected the #6 injector and started the car. The voltage on this injector read 2.5-3 volts., same for the #2 injector. The voltage on the #4 injector was 15 voltas approximately. Thats as far as i have gotten. I do have an ohm meter and know how to use it. Just not familar with the wire harness good enought to know where a short might be or which pin to measure at the ecm to check for a short in the wire. Another forum told me they thought it might be the ecm (computer) and that it might have a bad driver. However, when i went to order one today. The guy told me to make sure i didnt have a short or it could just blow the new ecm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I can do anything mechanically related if someone can give me some direction. I dont mind buying a rebuilt computer, but dont wish to do this if it is not the problem.

Response From dmi187619

I have a 2002 Town and Country with a 3.8 posting the same code. I did find that the wiring harness was fried right where you said it was, just behind the main connector behind the power steering reservoir. I managed to fix it, checked all circuits. All circuits were good. However, when I reconnected the harness, and fired it up, the computer immediately posted the P0204 code again. I think it is the PCM, but where else could I check for a short or possibly damaged wires? Should I check from beyond the main connector, and trace back to the PCM first before I just fork out and buy a new PCM? I just want to make sure I don't have another problem with a frayed, pinched and shorted wire. I'm afraid of frying the new PCM. Thanks.

Response From jdrandolph

Let me first state that this was the solution for my problem, but I cannot see or guarantee that this is your problem. But if you have melted the wires like my car did, then you will likely have to replace the ECM. I bought a refurbished/reprogrammed computer from Ebay for $199.00 and it solved my problem and only took a week to get it. I think the name was Automotive Exchange. Just make sure that all wires are fully insulated. I recommend changing the fuel injection portion of the wiring harness, but i still have not replaced mineand it runs great! Knock on wood!!!!!

Response From dmi187619

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to do one quick inspection of the rest of the wiring and get the PCM. I saw the paticular ebay auction for $199 that you were talking about too. I also re-routed the wiring to go up and around the power steering reservoir as well, so none of the wires touch the block. I think it will be fine for right now. I will let you know how mine went after I install the new PCM. Thanks for all your help.

Response From jdrandolph

I made the exact same change. I would continue to use the heat protection wrap that was on the wiring harness, just in case it touches again. You will need to have the VIN and mileage on the car when you call in to order the vehicle. If you buy over Ebay, you can send the seller a note. I like this method because PayPal somewhat protects you. Good luck and let me know if it works for you. Hope this post helps everyone, because I spent 2 months trying to diagnose and solve this problem. While another post did say the wiring harness could be damaged, without telling me to take the harness off to examine, I would never have found this problem.

Response From Tom Piccirillo

I had the exact same trouble with my 2003 T&C as above...rough running, surging, transmission slamming.

The dealer had it for two weeks and couldn't find the trouble until I showed him the posts above. He then checked it out and...

Yup, it was the wiring harness under the PS pump and near the 10-pin connector. He opened it up and saw the fried wires. Repaired the wires and the car then ran fine.

He tried to charge me for the time he spent hunting for the trouble. Well, I couldn't do that...no one would. We came to an agreement at a somewhat lower price, but his effort was commendable, even if ineffective. In all honesty, it is a real head scratcher. If it wasn't for this forum, the solution would have never been found.

The next guy in his shop for a similar repair will benefit from this experience. I only wish I was that guy, instead of the one on the learning curve. I then would not have had to have the "discussion" with the service manager.

I would still go back to this dealer for service...whether or not he'll work with me in the future is questionable.

Response From orasac Top Rated Answer

Me too! It was the main 10 pin ELECTRICAL cable that melted by falling on rear (hard to see) exhaust manifold. I read more on various discussion forums and I found out there is an "EPIDEMIC OF MELTED 10 PIN CABLES (Wire Harness)" out there and I can't believe there was no recall on it. What a poor design - it looks like something out of old Eastern-European car design (or the parts manufacturer). People with the same problem got blown ECU (computer) due to "the short" and/or even lost their Catalytic Converter due to fuel flooding. Your mechanic could have (un)intentionally left it that way as a “job security”. There are TWO PLASTIC “safety pins” to plug in the firewall to keep the cable away from the hot metal and I think they knew that?!?!.
NOTICE TO EVERY CHRYSLER OWNER WITH 3.3L AND 3.8L V6 ENGINE - CHECK THAT CABLE FIRST IF YOU MAINTAINED YOUR CAR RIGHT AND STILL DEVELOPED STRANGE SYMPTOMS AND EVEN IF IT DOESN'T - IT'S A GREAT PREVENTIVE MEASURE. It's hard to see it because it’s hidden behind the engine and under the power steering reservoir and the coil. Other than that I think Chrysler engines, from the mechanical stand point, are not bad at all!!!

Response From Hammer Time

This is a 2 year old thread. Please look at the dates before posting.

Response From Hopebuddy

HI,
My 2003 Town and Country has about same issue as yours. Climbed Grandfather Mtn in NC and car started running rough with 0204 and 0304 codes set. Changed wires and plugs and swapped out number 4 injector with no success.
Can you tell me what finally fixed yours? Appreciate any help

Response From jdrandolph

I have figured out what is wrong, but have not fixed it yet, because of lack of money. The initial problem is directly related to the wiring harness. Directly below the location where the fuel injection harness connects to the main engine wiring harness, my wiring harness was touching the engine block and melted all of the insulation off of the wires. But during this process it fried on of the circuits on my computer. Therefore, I have to replace the computer. I should have the money to replace it this Thursday. I will let you know.

You can see if this is your problem by following the wiring harness from the injectors (under the air intake) behind and under the power steering fluid reservoir, downward towards the back of he engine. There is a connector just below the power steering fluid reservoir. That is where mine was shorted due to the insulation being melted off the wires. I will eventually have to replace that portion of my wiring harness, but to test my computer, i have just replace the insulation on the wiring harness and protected this area. Its not hard to make the fix, but I couldn't tell I had a problem until I took the wiring harness off of the car.

Hope this helps

Response From Hopebuddy

JD,
Well done my friend! Not only was the fuel injector harness melted but it was exactly where you said it would be just under and aft of power steering reservoir near the 10 pin connector. Also it was not obvious until I removed the outer insullation covering. Looks like this to be a common problem on 2003 town and country. Should be a recall- not sure if it is. New harness is about $ 225 at Chrysler but beleive I can repair old one with connectors and a crimper tool.

I temporarily insulated all the wires with tape and then started car - runs very smooth now. Computor is OK but unfortunately the shorted wires caused injectors to flood the engine when I was in the mountains and damaged the catalytic converter. Bought one on ebay for $213.
Thanks again. Believe ebay has computers listed also.
Cheers!
HB

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you guys found your problems........Thx 4 coming back & posting your results.....

Response From Sidom

Well Chryslers do have problems with their PCMs & drivers in particular so that definately wouldn't be out of the questions.. The voltage you are getting to the injector is too low but comes up when you disconnect the #4 injector. The injectors get their power from the ASD relay and you should be seeing system voltage, 12 v or 14.x while running. I would back probe #2 or 6 and see what the voltage is when you disconnect #4. Also put a noid light on that connector & see if you have a pulse.

I would also be looking at the wiring harnesses, I've seen some problems with no evidence on the outside of the harness. I would start with the obvious stuff, maybe open up the harness under the battery to make sure there is no corrosion in it, look around for evidence of a damaged, pinched, moved, fluid saturated harnesses, grab the harness & wiggle them, see if that makes any codes come back or run differently, the injector harness in particular. You can disconnect the PCM connectors, find the power & ground circuits & verify those (maybe one of the guys with a good data base can hook ya up with a wiring diagram) , probe the other pins with + probe & key on, any 12 v reads on the other pins would indicate a short to power, with the sensors disconnected & a test light with the clip hooked on to the pos bat term, prob the connector pins & if its lights up that would indicate a short to ground........

If this was a straight #4 misfire with no injector pulse & good power it would be a slam dunk PCM(I'm assuming you've ohm'd the injectors to eliminate a shorted injector plus swapped them & the problem didn't move). All those codes you got 1st could still be a PCM, they will throw the kitchen sink when the go, but these are all reference voltage & power supply codes so personally if it was my call I thing I would want to make there isn'tanything going on in one of the harness, probably not, but ya never know............

I was assuming you have a 3.3L v/6