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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Exhaust Hangers

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Bosal
1999 Mazda Miata Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Pipe & Rear Muffler
Brand: Bosal
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Miata
Bosal
1995 Mazda Millenia Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Catalysts & Center Muffler
Brand: Bosal
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Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Millenia
Bosal
2000 Mazda MPV Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
Brand: Bosal
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Vehicle
2000 - Mazda MPV
Bosal
1999 Mazda Protege Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Rear Muffler
Brand: Bosal
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Protege
Bosal
2008 Mazda 5 Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • On Pipe in front of Muffler.
Brand: Bosal
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Vehicle
2008 - Mazda 5
Bosal
2007 Mazda CX-9 Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • (2) on Pre-Silencer, and (4) on Muffler.
Brand: Bosal
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Vehicle
2007 - Mazda CX-9
Bosal
2009 Mazda 6 Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Rear of Muffler and on rear of pre-silencer just in front of Main Muffler
Brand: Bosal
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Vehicle
2009 - Mazda 6
Bosal
2009 Mazda 6 Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Rear Muffler, Left and Right, rear of center Muffler
Brand: Bosal
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Vehicle
2009 - Mazda 6
Bosal
2010 Mazda 5 Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Front of Muffler
Brand: Bosal
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Vehicle
2010 - Mazda 5
Bosal
2007 Mazda 6 Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Front of Muffler.
Brand: Bosal
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2007 - Mazda 6
Bosal
2011 Mazda 3 Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Muffler Body
Brand: Bosal
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2011 - Mazda 3
Bosal
2011 Mazda 3 Exhaust System Hanger Bosal

P311-4F0D615    New

Qty:
$8.41
Bosal Exhaust System Hanger
  • Muffler Hanger - On Muffler Body
Brand: Bosal
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2011 - Mazda 3
ALLMAKES 4X4
Qty:
$5.75
ALLMAKES 4X4 Exhaust System Hanger
  • Rubber
  • Rubber
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
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Vehicle
1994 - Land Rover Defender 90
Genuine
2004 Ford Freestar Exhaust System Hanger Genuine

P311-5CFE859    New

Qty:
$13.50
Genuine Exhaust System Hanger
  • Rubber
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2004 - Ford Freestar
Genuine
2006 Ford Freestar Exhaust System Hanger Genuine

P311-5CFE859    New

Qty:
$13.50
Genuine Exhaust System Hanger
Brand: Genuine
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2006 - Ford Freestar
HJS
2004 Mazda 3 Exhaust System Hanger HJS

P311-1C29601    New

Qty:
$9.78
HJS Exhaust System Hanger
Brand: HJS
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Vehicle
2004 - Mazda 3
HJS
2008 Mazda 5 Exhaust System Hanger HJS

P311-1C29601    New

Qty:
$9.78
HJS Exhaust System Hanger
  • Muffler
Brand: HJS
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Vehicle
2008 - Mazda 5
HJS
2008 Mazda 3 Exhaust System Hanger HJS

P311-1C29601    New

Qty:
$9.78
HJS Exhaust System Hanger
  • Front of Muffler and on pipe between Muffler and Resonator
Brand: HJS
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Vehicle
2008 - Mazda 3
HJS
2010 Mazda 5 Exhaust System Hanger HJS

P311-1C29601    New

Qty:
$9.78
HJS Exhaust System Hanger
  • Rear of Muffler
Brand: HJS
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Vehicle
2010 - Mazda 5
HJS
2012 Mazda 3 Exhaust System Hanger HJS

P311-1C29601    New

Qty:
$9.78
HJS Exhaust System Hanger
  • Rear of Center Pipe
Brand: HJS
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Vehicle
2012 - Mazda 3

Latest Exhaust Hanger Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

03 Chev Malibu - loud knock when starting...

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Pavdog on 03 Chev Malibu - loud knock when starting...

when starting, a knocking coming from what I think is the exhaust pipe or muffler...feels like its right under drivers seat! After about 15-30 seconds it will smooth out and sound normal.
(when revving engine...I can't hear the knock, but returns when idles down)

Any ideas or suggestions will be appreciated!!!

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

I would probably start out with check all the exhaust hangers to make sure none are broken or missing. Then make sure all the motor mounts are good...

Vibration in Geo prizm

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From chadjordan93 on Vibration in Geo prizm

Year of vehicle-1994
Make of vehicle (Chevrolet/Geo)
Model of vehicle (Prizm )
Engine size (2.0)
Mileage/Kilometers-207,000

Need help trying to figure out a problem. I did some research and they all say tires or broken engine mount but neither is the cause for the vibration at idle and high speeds. My car vibrates when im idling or going over 65, just put new tires on and Ive had the engine mount checked, the oil has always been changed when time and there is no exhaust or body damage that is known. So if any one has solved or had this problem and could lend a word that would be great
Thanks,

Response From Mr.scotty

So it shakes when the vehicle is in park or in gear sitting still?
If it only did it while moving or just sitting still it probably would be easier to figure out.
Did it do it before the new tires?

Response From chadjordan93

it shakes when its in park, neutral, and at any speeds really, but the higher in speed you get the worst it gets.
its done it since ive had it, before and after new tires.
no wrecks before and im only the 4th owner

Response From Mr.scotty

And all the mounts are good?
Transmission,engine, and suspension?
Are you sure the car just doesn't have a miss fire?
No check engine light rite?

Response From chadjordan93

And all the mounts are good? yes
Transmission,engine, and suspension? yes, yes and im sure since they didnt say they were bad when i got new tires, i asked them to check out that stuff
Are you sure the car just doesn't have a miss fire? pretty sure it doesn't, because if it did the vibration wouldn't be this consistent( from what i know, which isnt alot)
No check engine light rite?no lights on at all, this is the best running car for its age ive seen just the vibration

Response From Mr.scotty

only other thing I can think of off of my head rite now is the harmonic balancer pulley.
If this is bent or something it could cause the car to shake when moving or not moving.
If that is whats wrong with it, it can make alot of big problems. have it checked out rite away.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That's a lot of miles on this pup. I'm with Mr. Scotty to check the harmonic balancer and other belt driven items. If no check engine light and might not maybe a cylinder balance and compression check is in order now if other things check out.

In that it can do this sitting still wheels and suspension item really can't be the cause. There are more than one mount to engine/trans to verify good. Sometimes exhaust may cause issues too with a big word - a resonance frequency from bad parts/hanger making the system whip around. My own car has balancers (counter weights) on exhaust to control that! Gotta check all of it IMO,

T

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

Yeah.., At this point it would be anything that rotate when the engine is running or a mount.
Like you said theres no way it's a suspension bushing or mount.

The exhaust hangers are a good point.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Mr. Scotty - anyone: Ever see that brand new bridge (forget where) that just went nuts (pics of it with cars on it then total collapse) as there was no control of vibrations which any engine takes into consideration too. If exhaust can wobble around just so it's possible it gets to shaking. It's not the highest thing on the list but something to rule out IMO,

T

(edit) Found the YouTube of that bridge and what can happen with resonance if not controlled - was 1940 - the Tacoma bridge.

Should show (short version) from this..............

Response From Mr.scotty

I know hard to believe it huh..

Response From speed

in my opinion id take it to an actual shop, not a tire place to get the mounts checked out. i work in the express lube, we do "visual" check on components but its not an actual check, i would not expect a person changing the tires to catch a faulty motor mount.

Response From zmame

could be a number of things
tune up
timing
vacume leak
motor mounts
or a combination of these things

Would need help to identify some tools

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From philippepom on Would need help to identify some tools

Hi

I'm cleaning the garage and I have a lot of tools that were to my dad that I can't understand what they are used to. I would appreciate some help to know if I keep or discard them. Here are the tools :

1.



2.





3.



4.



5.



6.



7. (look like to hold something)



8. (I found the bottom 2, I think it's to make internal thread in tube. Top one I don't know)



9.



10. (look like an angular wrench, but what are they used for ?).



11.



12.



13.



14.



15.




Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wish they were all numbered. Brake tools, front end part tools, Stud extractor shown, brake spring pliers, crimpers for wiring or cable connections, cable clamps, a tap and die, tool for tire valve stems, bent bar things are brake spoons (a nick name) for adjusting star adjusters still on some items, a timing wrench and another tool that would turn sleeve to center a steering wheel between tie rod ends. One or more pliers used for hose clamps. I think that's most of what's there.


Seems quite 40s -1950s ish and some still fully usable now. One appears to be missing a wooden handle. I have too much junk but know that most things are called vintage up to 75 years old and Antique older than that. Primitive not just age but a class now I consider over 100-150 years old and keep right on going. "Classic" anyone can decide IMO.


If you are looking for prices I'd say not much actually just more of interest. Whole sets of things attract more attention. Most all would be used for automotive uses. Some folks collect and want vintage stuff like that to display but much older stuff is easily available. For live use today better stuff exists for some/most IMO,


T

Response From philippepom

They are numbered, 1 to 15. Not sure why you don't see the number.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

  1. Control arm adjusting tool for older Fords to do alignment
  2. Old wheel lug wrench
  3. Wire crimping pliers (bad condition)
  4. Hose clamp pliers for wire type clamp
  5. Brake spring pliers
  6. Assorted brake spoons and a couple of small pry bars.
  7. Cable clamps
  8. A couple of hole rethreaders and a gasket hole punch
  9. Not sure, could be for removing rubber exhaust hangers
  10. Distributor wrench
  11. Tire schrader valve tool
  12. Tire rod sleeve adjusting tool (for wheel alignment)
  13. Tire thread depth gauge
  14. Looks like a tire split rim tool (handle missing)
  15. Stud remover

Response From philippepom

Thanks a lot.

Response From Discretesignals

Number 9 is a battery terminal lifter and scraper.
Number 11 is used to install and remove broken grease fittings.

Response From Hammer Time

DS may be right but #11 sure reassembles a tire valve tool.



Response From Discretesignals

I don't think you could remove a valve core with it. Here is another pic of a 4 way grease fitting tool. The cut out is for angled grease fitting.


Response From Hammer Time

Wow, I've never even seen one of those things and believe me, I'm old enough..........LOL

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Same - I don't own that exact tool but do have all to do what it does and do it as needed. They do or did make self taping grease fittings but most were threaded and plugged on new cars to be installed as then "Dealer Prep" which was a joke,


T

98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 I6...A.Trans/ front end wobbles

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From 1bigiron1 on 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 I6...A.Trans/ front end wobbles

the whole Jeep shakes when this happens a local shop fixed it 3 months ago by tightening the bolts on track bar bracket, it is loose again today shop retighten the bolt, it quit. I had another shop look at it they said it needed
a gear box, a track bar & a bracket. bracket/track bar was welded before i bought it they said they would have to cut old bracket off & re-weld another one on. my question really is in the ballpark how much would it cost in parts & labor? ( the 2nd shop would not give a cost estimate until I pay a $100 inspection fee? )

I am also preplexed as why only tightening the bolts solve the problem for awile.

thanks

took the cherokee to a friends mechanic's shop he found a worn bushing and he replaced the bushing for a minimal charge. the jeep drives really nice now with no shaking or wobbling.

thanks Carjunky for the Post.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? I'm a bit perplexed too! I admit I don't know the layout of the front end of these very well but I smell a fish.

? First shop tighten a bolt and that fixed it. If same bolt needed tightening again there's some wrong about that IMO. New bolt needed for some reason? I'm not there but I don't understand that one.

I also don't understand a new mechanical part needing to be cut and welded in - perhaps for collision repair items.

What's with the $100 bucks to give you a price? A diagnostic charge I would understand.

Whole situation begs the question of how hard this vehicle was used AND has it been altered? If so - anything goes.

I dunno about the diagnostics you've already had. Whatever that bolt the loosend up twice might have been a one time bolt and a new one would be the fix.

Steering boxes last a long time so I don't get that either. Many can be adjusted if just that item is causing too much freeplay

What to do: Go back to first shop and ask why about that bolt. That or another shop yet again.

This isn't adding up to me so far,

T

Response From 1bigiron1

Had the Cherokee fixed today at a 3rd shop turned out to be a worn bushing which was replaced with a new one for a minimal charge.
the Jeep drives & handles nice now with no shaking or wobbling.

thanks Carjunky for the post & answer.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Now that sounds more like it! Great.

To add: There are nuts and bolts here and there that are self locking and that really only work ONCE and those are intended to be replaced and frequently come with new parts.

The real proof now would be to get a high quality 4 wheel alignment which should include that there are no worn parts that don't allow it to be put into spec including tires, wheels bearings and more. That would be money well spent to have a good safe vehicle,

T

Response From 1bigiron1

P.S. there were No "welding" on the bracket either.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Thanks for coming back with that info. I just knew I smelled a fish as said! If a part is welded it comes that way new - the shop doesn't do it! Been at this a while - routine parts don't need welding for automotive MECHANICAL repair to any I know of.

Fixing a rusted frame or sometimes in much older stuff you might make up an exhaust hanger and weld the hanger to a pipe or something but I hate that way of doing even that.

Don't get me wrong as there certaily is welding all over a vehicle but I put that in the body + frame catagory NOT routine mechanical repair.

Now custom stuff is a whole different game. Funny cars and trucks lifted so high you can drive under them - do what you want.

Again - thanks for the report and good news,

T