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So it shakes when the vehicle is in park or in gear sitting still?
If it only did it while moving or just sitting still it probably would be easier to figure out.
Did it do it before the new tires?

it shakes when its in park, neutral, and at any speeds really, but the higher in speed you get the worst it gets.
its done it since ive had it, before and after new tires.
no wrecks before and im only the 4th owner

And all the mounts are good?
Transmission,engine, and suspension?
Are you sure the car just doesn't have a miss fire?
No check engine light rite?

And all the mounts are good? yes
Transmission,engine, and suspension? yes, yes and im sure since they didnt say they were bad when i got new tires, i asked them to check out that stuff
Are you sure the car just doesn't have a miss fire? pretty sure it doesn't, because if it did the vibration wouldn't be this consistent( from what i know, which isnt alot)
No check engine light rite?no lights on at all, this is the best running car for its age ive seen just the vibration

only other thing I can think of off of my head rite now is the harmonic balancer pulley.
If this is bent or something it could cause the car to shake when moving or not moving.
If that is whats wrong with it, it can make alot of big problems. have it checked out rite away.

That's a lot of miles on this pup. I'm with Mr. Scotty to check the harmonic balancer and other belt driven items. If no check engine light and might not maybe a cylinder balance and compression check is in order now if other things check out.

In that it can do this sitting still wheels and suspension item really can't be the cause. There are more than one mount to engine/trans to verify good. Sometimes exhaust may cause issues too with a big word - a resonance frequency from bad parts/hanger making the system whip around. My own car has balancers (counter weights) on exhaust to control that! Gotta check all of it IMO,

T

Mr. Scotty - anyone: Ever see that brand new bridge (forget where) that just went nuts (pics of it with cars on it then total collapse) as there was no control of vibrations which any engine takes into consideration too. If exhaust can wobble around just so it's possible it gets to shaking. It's not the highest thing on the list but something to rule out IMO,

T

(edit) Found the YouTube of that bridge and what can happen with resonance if not controlled - was 1940 - the Tacoma bridge.

Should show (short version) from this..............

I know hard to believe it huh..

in my opinion id take it to an actual shop, not a tire place to get the mounts checked out. i work in the express lube, we do "visual" check on components but its not an actual check, i would not expect a person changing the tires to catch a faulty motor mount.

could be a number of things
tune up
timing
vacume leak
motor mounts
or a combination of these things

Wish they were all numbered. Brake tools, front end part tools, Stud extractor shown, brake spring pliers, crimpers for wiring or cable connections, cable clamps, a tap and die, tool for tire valve stems, bent bar things are brake spoons (a nick name) for adjusting star adjusters still on some items, a timing wrench and another tool that would turn sleeve to center a steering wheel between tie rod ends. One or more pliers used for hose clamps. I think that's most of what's there.


Seems quite 40s -1950s ish and some still fully usable now. One appears to be missing a wooden handle. I have too much junk but know that most things are called vintage up to 75 years old and Antique older than that. Primitive not just age but a class now I consider over 100-150 years old and keep right on going. "Classic" anyone can decide IMO.


If you are looking for prices I'd say not much actually just more of interest. Whole sets of things attract more attention. Most all would be used for automotive uses. Some folks collect and want vintage stuff like that to display but much older stuff is easily available. For live use today better stuff exists for some/most IMO,


T

They are numbered, 1 to 15. Not sure why you don't see the number.

Thanks a lot.

Number 9 is a battery terminal lifter and scraper.
Number 11 is used to install and remove broken grease fittings.

DS may be right but #11 sure reassembles a tire valve tool.

I don't think you could remove a valve core with it. Here is another pic of a 4 way grease fitting tool. The cut out is for angled grease fitting.

Wow, I've never even seen one of those things and believe me, I'm old enough..........LOL

Same - I don't own that exact tool but do have all to do what it does and do it as needed. They do or did make self taping grease fittings but most were threaded and plugged on new cars to be installed as then "Dealer Prep" which was a joke,


T

Hmmm? I'm a bit perplexed too! I admit I don't know the layout of the front end of these very well but I smell a fish.

? First shop tighten a bolt and that fixed it. If same bolt needed tightening again there's some wrong about that IMO. New bolt needed for some reason? I'm not there but I don't understand that one.

I also don't understand a new mechanical part needing to be cut and welded in - perhaps for collision repair items.

What's with the $100 bucks to give you a price? A diagnostic charge I would understand.

Whole situation begs the question of how hard this vehicle was used AND has it been altered? If so - anything goes.

I dunno about the diagnostics you've already had. Whatever that bolt the loosend up twice might have been a one time bolt and a new one would be the fix.

Steering boxes last a long time so I don't get that either. Many can be adjusted if just that item is causing too much freeplay

What to do: Go back to first shop and ask why about that bolt. That or another shop yet again.

This isn't adding up to me so far,

T

Had the Cherokee fixed today at a 3rd shop turned out to be a worn bushing which was replaced with a new one for a minimal charge.
the Jeep drives & handles nice now with no shaking or wobbling.

thanks Carjunky for the post & answer.

Now that sounds more like it! Great.

To add: There are nuts and bolts here and there that are self locking and that really only work ONCE and those are intended to be replaced and frequently come with new parts.

The real proof now would be to get a high quality 4 wheel alignment which should include that there are no worn parts that don't allow it to be put into spec including tires, wheels bearings and more. That would be money well spent to have a good safe vehicle,

T

P.S. there were No "welding" on the bracket either.