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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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    Four Seasons
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    Spectra
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Best Selling Genuine Mitsubishi Evaporator Cores

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Air Products, TYC, Four Seasons
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mitsubishi Replacement Evaporator Core Parts

We stock Evaporator Core parts for most Mitsubishi models, including 3000GT, Diamante, Eclipse, Galant, Lancer, Mirage, Montero, Montero Sport, Outlander.

Air Products
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer A/C Evaporator Core Air Products

P311-1223383    W0133-1732512  New

Qty:
$122.76
Air Products A/C Evaporator Core
Brand: Air Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Mitsubishi Lancer
Air Products
2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport A/C Evaporator Core Air Products

P311-18B311A    W0133-1732211  New

Qty:
$131.94
Air Products A/C Evaporator Core
  • Production: 03/2000-
Brand: Air Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport Fr:03-00-00
Air Products
2003 Mitsubishi Montero Sport A/C Evaporator Core Air Products

P311-18B311A    W0133-1732211  New

Qty:
$131.94
Air Products A/C Evaporator Core
Brand: Air Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport
Air Products
2004 Mitsubishi Montero Sport A/C Evaporator Core Air Products

P311-18B311A    W0133-1732211  New

Qty:
$131.94
Air Products A/C Evaporator Core
  • Production: -07/2004
Brand: Air Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport To:07-00-04
Air Products
2001 Mitsubishi Mirage A/C Evaporator Core Air Products

P311-220A6A2    W0133-1731361  New

Qty:
$128.54
Air Products A/C Evaporator Core
Brand: Air Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Mitsubishi Mirage
Air Products
2002 Mitsubishi Mirage A/C Evaporator Core Air Products

P311-220A6A2    W0133-1731361  New

Qty:
$128.54
Air Products A/C Evaporator Core
  • Production: -05/2002
Brand: Air Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Mitsubishi Mirage To:05-00-02
TYC
2011 Mitsubishi Galant A/C Evaporator Core TYC

P311-09520D8    W0133-1984925  New

Qty:
$184.31
TYC A/C Evaporator Core
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mitsubishi Galant
TYC
2009 Mitsubishi Galant A/C Evaporator Core TYC

P311-09520D8    W0133-1984925  New

Qty:
$184.31
TYC A/C Evaporator Core
  • To 08/2008
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mitsubishi Galant
TYC
2009 Mitsubishi Galant A/C Evaporator Core TYC

P311-09520D8    W0133-1984925  New

Qty:
$184.31
TYC A/C Evaporator Core
  • From 08/2008
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mitsubishi Galant
Four Seasons
2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-1E28A09    54882  New

1563636 , EV939541PFC , 54705 , 2733367 , 720432 , 1010100 , 4711653 , 54882 , 305933 , 236989 , 6284

Qty:
$85.05
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Serpentine Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator replacement for this application may require considerable time, specialty tools, and training.
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth Fraction: 2-1/4
    • Core Depth MM: 57.150
    • Core Height Fraction: 8-1/2
    • Core Height MM: 215.900
    • Core Width Fraction: 11-1/2
    • Core Width MM: 292.100
    • Depth: 2.250
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 8.500
    • Inlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24661] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24681] / Green O-ring
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • Width: 11.500
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Mitsubishi Eclipse
Four Seasons
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse A/C Evaporator Core 4 Cyl 2.0L Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-43AA665    54289  New

233029 , 720044 , 720087 , 1562163 , EV201713PFC , VC453 , 54289 , 4711315 , 249842 , 1562765 , EV201713PF , 245453 , C45005 , 54110 , EP392323 , 1054289 , 592503 , 2733181 , 167914 , 805106 , YE842 , 6705 , 59546 , 730373

Qty:
$67.76
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Plate & Fin Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator replacement for this application may require considerable time, specialty tools, and training.
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth Fraction: 3-3/4
    • Core Depth MM: 95.250
    • Core Height Fraction: 10-1/2
    • Core Height MM: 266.700
    • Core Width Fraction: 9-1/2
    • Core Width MM: 241.300
    • Depth: 3.750
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 10.500
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24628] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24681] / Green O-ring
    • Width: 9.500
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Mitsubishi Eclipse L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Four Seasons
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse A/C Evaporator Core 4 Cyl 2.0L Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-5729384    54288  New

54109 , 4711314 , 167915 , EV206121PFC , EP392322 , EV206121PF , 730372 , YE843 , 4711612 , 2733180 , 59547 , 249843 , 805107 , 592504 , 1562762 , 54288 , 233028 , 1054288 , 6706 , EV5512PFC , 107101

Qty:
$71.77
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Plate & Fin Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator replacement for this application may require considerable time, specialty tools, and training.
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth Fraction: 3-3/4
    • Core Depth MM: 95.250
    • Core Height Fraction: 10-1/2
    • Core Height MM: 266.700
    • Core Width Fraction: 9-1/2
    • Core Width MM: 241.300
    • Depth: 3.750
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 10.500
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24607] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24608] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring C Number/Desc: [24610] / Green O-ring
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • Width: 9.500
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Mitsubishi Eclipse L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Four Seasons
1989 Mitsubishi Precis A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-59F51A7    54687  New

EV0701LBAC , 54687 , EV5511AC , YE397 , 54570 , 730114 , 805959 , YE750 , EV0701ALB , 1562226 , 4711482 , 149507 , 159507 , 6830 , 249397 , ES19261 , 55501 , 249750 , 105507

Qty:
$55.44
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Serpentine Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth Fraction: 3-1/2
    • Core Depth MM: 88.900
    • Core Height Fraction: 10-1/2
    • Core Height MM: 266.700
    • Core Width Fraction: 9-1/2
    • Core Width MM: 241.300
    • Depth: 3.500
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 10.500
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24608] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24610] / Green O-ring
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • Width: 9.500
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Mitsubishi Precis
Four Seasons
1993 Mitsubishi Precis A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-36F56CB    54696  New

6877 , 157976 , 233011 , 2725507 , EV0701ASB , 1563596 , 1562232 , 55507 , 54696 , 232011 , 54576 , EV0701SBAC , 249591 , 147976 , 730003 , ES19280 , YE591 , 4711487 , 805025

Qty:
$65.65
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Serpentine Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth Fraction:
      • 3-1/2
      • 3-3/8
    • Core Depth MM:
      • 85.725
      • 88.900
    • Core Height Fraction: 9-9/16
    • Core Height MM:
      • 242.887
      • 279.400
    • Core Width Fraction:
      • 10-7/16
      • 9-1/2
    • Core Width MM:
      • 241.300
      • 265.113
    • Depth:
      • 3.375
      • 3.500
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height:
      • 11.000
      • 9.563
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24604] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24608] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring C Number/Desc: [24610] / Green O-ring
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • Width:
      • 10.4375
      • 9.500
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mitsubishi Precis
Four Seasons
1993 Mitsubishi Expo LRV A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-4A927C4    54754  New

YE510 , 54614 , ES17245 , 54754 , 4711587 , 808994 , 1563613 , 730147 , EV3410A , 6715 , 4711514 , EV3410 , 157908 , 720059 , 249510 , 1562238

Qty:
$65.46
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Serpentine Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth MM: 101.600
    • Core Height MM: 228.600
    • Core Width Fraction: 8-11/16
    • Core Width MM: 220.662
    • Depth: 4.000
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 9.000
    • Inlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24610] / Green O-ring
    • Width: 8.6875
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mitsubishi Expo LRV
Four Seasons
1986 Mitsubishi Mighty Max A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-5BF54D1    54697  New

YE398 , 55504 , 232054 , 54577 , ES18247 , 54697 , 249398 , EV50532 , 149508 , 700102 , 105504 , 805905 , 1563597

Qty:
$67.02
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Tube & Fin Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth MM: 76.200
    • Core Height Fraction: 6-1/4
    • Core Height MM: 158.750
    • Core Width Fraction: 13-5/8
    • Core Width MM: 346.075
    • Depth: 3.000
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 6.250
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24608] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24610] / Green O-ring
    • Width: 13.625
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Mitsubishi Mighty Max
Four Seasons
1993 Mitsubishi Montero A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-0377819    54191  New

YE6904 , EV939806PFC , 706904 , 156904X , 4711636 , EV3916 , 592631 , 249592 , EV12370PFC , 4760015 , EP39257 , 232224 , EV12370PFXC , 156904 , 720038 , 4711292 , 53916 , 2496904 , 54191 , 1562761 , 46010 , EP37255 , 156918 , 6904N , 103916 , 4760014

Qty:
$61.04
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Plate & Fin Evaporator Core
  • Plate Fin
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth Fraction: 3-1/8
    • Core Depth MM: 79.375
    • Core Height Fraction: 9-1/4
    • Core Height MM: 234.950
    • Core Width Fraction: 8-1/2
    • Core Width MM: 215.900
    • Depth: 3.125
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 9.250
    • Inlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24610] / Green O-ring
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • Width: 8.500
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mitsubishi Montero
Four Seasons
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-13EAC1E    54708  New

ES20251 , 159525 , 2720186 , 730079 , 232154 , 805109 , 1562797 , EV5517AC , 6709 , EV5517A , 1562237 , 54584 , 2720308 , 54708 , 4711493

Qty:
$61.16
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Serpentine Evaporator Core
  • From 6/93 Evaporator replacement for this application may require considerable time, specialty tools, and training.
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth MM: 101.600
    • Core Height Fraction: 10-5/8
    • Core Height MM: 269.875
    • Core Width Fraction: 10-3/8
    • Core Width MM: 263.525
    • Depth: 4.000
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 10.625
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24608] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24612] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring C Number/Desc: [24616] / Green O-ring
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • Width: 10.375
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mitsubishi 3000GT
Four Seasons
1999 Mitsubishi 3000GT A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-13EAC1E    54708  New

ES20251 , 159525 , 2720186 , 730079 , 232154 , 805109 , 1562797 , EV5517AC , 6709 , EV5517A , 1562237 , 54584 , 2720308 , 54708 , 4711493

Qty:
$61.16
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Serpentine Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator replacement for this application may require considerable time, specialty tools, and training.
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth MM: 101.600
    • Core Height Fraction: 10-5/8
    • Core Height MM: 269.875
    • Core Width Fraction: 10-3/8
    • Core Width MM: 263.525
    • Depth: 4.000
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height: 10.625
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24608] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24612] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring C Number/Desc: [24616] / Green O-ring
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • Width: 10.375
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mitsubishi 3000GT
Four Seasons
1998 Mitsubishi Galant A/C Evaporator Core Four Seasons - Evaporator Core

P311-54F3C57    54643  New

4711635 , 720086 , 54643 , 59512 , 55512 , 1054643 , 2733175 , 105512 , EV939508PFC , 1562161 , EV93905PF , 4711455 , EV939508PFXC , EV5514PFC , 6810 , 805102 , 88919612 , 54542 , 590217 , EP392324 , 233231

Qty:
$69.48
Four Seasons A/C Evaporator Core
  • Plate & Fin Evaporator Core
  • Evaporator Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Core Depth Fraction: 3-3/8
    • Core Depth MM: 85.725
    • Core Height Fraction:
      • 9-1/4
      • 9-3/8
    • Core Height MM:
      • 234.950
      • 238.125
    • Core Width Fraction:
      • 9-1/8
      • 9-3/8
    • Core Width MM:
      • 231.775
      • 238.125
    • Depth: 3.375
    • Description: Evaporator Cores
    • Height:
      • 9.250
      • 9.375
    • O-Ring A Number/Desc: [24608] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring B Number/Desc: [24610] / Green O-ring
    • O-Ring C Number/Desc: [24616] / Green O-ring
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Block Fitting
    • Width:
      • 9.125
      • 9.375
  • Core design meets or exceeds OE performance and efficiency; Optimized refrigerant flow; Application specific design; Contains gaskets, o-rings, or seals to properly replace the product
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mitsubishi Galant

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Evaporator Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Blower does not blow air

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Simsinct on Blower does not blow air

Have a new 2012 Jeep Geand Cherokee. On way back to CT from Idaho. Crossing PA now, and the air is no longer blowing out of vents. Can hear the fan, but nothing coming out. Rad earlier post about same issue, resulting from possible freeze of some part. We turned it off and oppened the windows. I have had three Mitsubishi Monteros, and have never had his problem, also an A6 i bought new that now has 260,000 miles on it, and never this sort of problem. Thoughts? Suggestions? I am texting this message while my son is driving.

Response From nickwarner

I may well be the problem. You will need to give it some thaw time to see if that is the case. When you stop, and the AC isn't blowing through but on, see if the compressor clutch is cycling at all and if any condensate is dripping.

Response From Simsinct

Turned the ac off, and the temp to 80. Some air is now blowing through. This is a pretty heavy road trip with 12 hour drive days, so it will probably be fine once we are back ding normal daily driving. Love this car though. It's been great On this trip.

Response From Hammer Time

Don't turn the blower down too low. That's what makes it freeze.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Factory may have the thermo sensor in the wrong position on the evaporator core if it is using that design.

DIY A/C repair advice

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Mufasa on DIY A/C repair advice

Greetings guys, i recently had my AC looked at at an auto elec, told me the compressor was busted and i'd need a new drier too, quoted me $800 for that (original regas was $190 or something)

im guessing the cars previous owners never had the a/c serviced

anyway i'm thinking about DIY'ing (without experience) this repair and here are some numbers i've come up with
best case scenario, if i buy 2nd hand compressor and have a mechanic install it (2 hours labor?)
$495
worst case (4 hours labor < i have no idea what would be a fair time)
$655
best case scenario if i DIY this
vacuum pump -$100 (perhaps i could sell it afterwards too)
parts $155 + some for oil/orings
$465 including regas (maybe $400 if i sell vacuum afterwards)

any advice on this? is there any equipment i'm not accounting for that i will need? any other parts etc?, are my estimates reasonable?

my car is a 2003 mitsubishi lancer 4d CG ES

thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did it work with it as you said a "regas" job? That alone would be charging it up properly with exact amount of refrigerant so testing could go on and seems all you know is compressor is busted - Oh really! That's it?


A/C is a lousy way to save money DIYing if you really need it doing things wrong will be the most expensive way out. Used compressor is fine if you just need dead weight or the pulley and about it IMO.


Full diagnosis before even deciding if it's worth it at all. Leaks, contamination, electrical items and an OMG list of things all need be right or it's all a guess if in operative now.


Some a leaking evap alone labor could kill the value of having A/C or not vs the bucks and still only one item in the show.


Diagnose or have it done expecting up to a ton of things to do not like just tossing out an alternator type thing at all,


T

Response From Mufasa

what's wrong with a used working compressor?
i can get a used working compressor with 3 months warranty for $150, or a brand new one for $600

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A/C is a whole field of study not some part. If you really knew of a working one right now AND knew YOURS was even the problem you could.


You have to keep track of oil as there's no measuring it or empty entirely, flush whole system out and start with a known amount.


Just to properly fill a working system is a night course. Air will kill a good system or any significant over or undercharge. Not a good DIY thing without the equipment and at least competent help for a first attempt. Said already, the wrong move can take a couple hundred buck problem and make it thousands if done wrong!


Just look at what it takes only to charge up a known relatively OK system..........


Link is locked up top few of this section......... Worth the read........
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Heating_or_AC_Issues_F8/REFRIGERANT_CHARGING_PROCEDURE_IN_AUTOMOTIVE_A/C_SYSTEMS_P45460/


Tom

Response From Mufasa

Hi again tom, i have no intention of DIY re-gassing the system (it's illegal to do that unqualified here)

as for the problem turning into a larger problem if it's stuffed up
well, if i can save 400 dollars, and there's a good chance a used compressor will work if installed professionally, it seems it would be worth the risk (worst case scenario is, it breaks even worse than it is now, and i'll just live without A/C in my car lol)

but yeah, i'm reasonably convinced i should seek professional installation for it, but it's definately not worth paying $550+ for a brand new compressor in my situation

anyway, as i know the compressor is busted (i had it checked out at an auto elect), i think i'll buy a used one, and get the auto elec to see if there's anything else broken on it, if not, install the parts and all's good

Response From Mufasa

just another update, i've contacted the wreckers, asked how long the owner of the part i intended to buy, was told it's still in a vehicle and running fine, so i'll assume it hasn't had a chance to dry out the seals

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's involved and trouble to use remanufactured units vs new never mind used! You need to know what happened to your own not just told "busted" and if it ran low, made noise there's debris to deal with. If plain weak or operated when as YOU call it "re-gassed" then leaked out of it you may get lucky.


Then you drain old units to see how much oil comes out and measure it. Same for replacement and hope it hasn't been open too long as oil can turn acidic exposed to air. If other or donor car had sealer in it you may get it and who knows what troubles.


It's just not a good used game or DIY thing at all. It's hard to know all that is wrong with yours now and that tells of how much you need to do and I don't think you know that. Where if any leaks are they and how fast?


What were the pressures when you A/C was declared to have a dead or "busted" compressor? A/C repair is not just single parts replacements and recharging but need to know more as to the approach or can lose everything done and still need about every component that touches refrigerant and oil when at first you didn't.


If you don't mind the gamble and stop at that loss if all fails go for it. It might work just I can't say absolutely 100% in the best of cases but would sure try to know as much as possible before digging in and recklessly spending bucks that are unlikely to work.


The thing is A/C is much on it's own as a trade. Not all shops will take it on at all as it's costly all around and seasonal for most but the cost of equipment goes on if only taking up space you could use for something else year round. Shops do, do A/C all year for assorted reasons but most don't where I live or delay final fixes till later sometimes.


I just suggest knowing as much as you can so you are aware of it so you aren't totally surprised if your approach fails or doesn't last. Good luck,


T

Response From Mufasa

Well, i'm already 100% convinced i shouldnt do this myself, and i'll take it to an auto shop, also i've noticed that minly auto electricians do the A/C stuff in my aria, and not regular mechanics

as for acidic seals, i actually already asked the seller about this in advance, i asked when the parts were removed and how they were stored, was told the parts were still in a vehicle, working, and would be removed upon shipping- i may need to store the parts for like 2 weeks, any advice on this?

also, is a diagnostic labour intensive? if i'm going to pay $80 for that, i might just save that until i take the car in for the full repair

thanks so much for donating your professional knowledge to me too ;)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Great that the used part if going that was is still intact in a vehicle. Now, when removed it would be open so I would try to seal it off from air as best you can.


Some may hold oil some not much. The oils used in 134a (should be your refrigerant) is about always PAG types that absorb moisture. Alone not the world right away but dammit it can make it acidic.


Oil of any type lubes a compressor but travels thru the whole system. When parked it will settle where it will and you really don't know how much is where if just sitting, at what angle and for how long. Makes knowing things exactly a nightmare. That's why this crap gets expensive.


Diagnostic time really unknown. Much easier with a slowly failing system while still doing something. Leaks are generally the #1 reason for lack of cooling. Many vehicles continue to try with compressor engaged and oils don't move along to lube it by the time it is both engaged and can't cool so there's the real trouble and compressor is running dry, then a debris field unknown. Yuk. One teaspoon of fine debris and the whole job fails!


Now if in biz for this and you know components are costly, customer doesn't have a year to understand risks of failure and why so expensive but you as the shop should be taking responsibility for some period of time you would naturally default to tossing and doing more pro-actively to make it work well and for as long as possible. Hey - who the heck wants to fail - doesn't do a shop or tech any good either! Nobody really wants a ticked off customer nor a personal failure of missing something.


Your best bet if you proceed is to make a printed list of everything known by what evidence IMO for the tech(s) to help them make some guesses and suggestions that may include no warranty what-so-ever with YOUR parts.


Relax some in the seals and rubber parts are virtually all compatible with the 134a refrigerant, a smaller molecule that takes a better grade then 1993 and older OE vehicles now too long ago to worry about for you. It's the metals IMO that don't like acidic things or corrosion from outside causes either.


FYI: I'm inland of Boston, MA, USA so totally out of season but things happen - collisions and repairs that will violate an A/C system. Most do not heat shops much more than to keep from freezing except a very few. I'm done with this game for a long time but if one came or was sent to me in wild cold I would prep it for finishing in warmer weather and mark it with what was done probably for a tech I'll never know or see.


Sorry for the novel on this. I only meant to advise you that is isn't that easy to just understand never mind do it and succeed plus huge bucks possible but not always.


Good luck. Just hope you understand a little why so many will say it's not a good DIY thing many times,


Tom

Response From Mufasa

so, any suggestions on how to store the compressor for 2 weeks?
i'm thinking, just wrap tightly in cling wrap and store in garage

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Plug ports with what works that wont get inside. Store dry. Prior to installation it should be turned with fresh proper oil as a pre-lube however your chance of knowing how much oil was in that one may be lost if you didn't remove it and measure it so default to educated guessing by its location when installed, system capacity as a whole. General rough guess is add 2 oz of specified oil to it and upstream. Cross fingers you are close or whole system gets flushed out for a known amount.


Note: Most (never say all) will tolerate 2oz over spec with minimal impact. Way too much compressor can choke/hydraulic lock and way under burn out fast from lack of lube.


Over filled some frequently will just settle to bottom of a condenser depending on design making it less efficient a little or a lot?


Guessing is just that when you don't have a dipstick to know for sure,


T

Response From Mufasa

so, are you saying i just need to have the new compressors oil flushed out, so we can start with a known 0 amount of oil?, i cant imagine you mean to flush the whole current system, as a brand new compressor would come empty too, right?

as i said, i'm convinced i wont DIY this, so would that really be a problem for a professional?

are there any questions i should ask the seller about oil etc when i buy it, so i have information for my mechanic?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If the old compressor came apart and spewed metal throughout the system, you have to flush the lines and the evaporator core out before installing your replacement compressor, drier, condenser and TXV. The parallel flow condensers are impossible to flush contaminates out of due to their design.

You also have to oil balance the system with PAG 46. There is a certain amount of oil the system uses and the oil has to be distributed throughout the system when you put it back together. I would definitely drain any new or used compressor and add around 3-4 ounces of fresh PAG. Do not flush a compressor or drier. The remaining amount of PAG the system holds gets oil balanced between the condensor, drier, and evaporator.

There are a lot of steps and procedures when doing ac work. Just about anyone can slap a compressor on and get an ac system to work, but the ones that perform the proper procedures and fully understand the operation and design of the system they are working on usually end up with a system that lasts many years.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote "
as i said, i'm convinced i wont DIY this, so would that really be a problem for a professional?"


That's the good news. As DS just pointed out a pro will suggest doing as he said for the best chance of success with a still used compressor they may not want to use at all so check first with the shop you choose. Some don't want to deal with any of YOUR parts NOR rebuilt compressors at all even right out of the box.


Failures set you back to do it all over again and plus some ending up costing more. Most condensers will be high efficiency and the best attempts to clear one out (flush) is about impossible. It's not straight line tubes and fins inside. Leaving flush in it would wreck the rest of the job all over again.


Driers anywhere, receivers or accumulator hold "desiccant" much like those little packets you may have seen in a package with sensitive electronics that say "do not eat" on them?? No matter but the stuff absorbs any left over moisture and can act as a filter but only once. Flush would ruin them.


Oil mentioned has to quickly be all thru the system so when you redo or begin from empty you do spread it all around. As the compressor first engages it hopefully is fully charged or very close as time is limited even with pre spinning thru oil how long it can without burning up! That would be start all over again!


This A/C stuff is perhaps the only but at least in the top couple things that if done wrong can cause more damage than what you started with making it cost insane amounts to try again.


That explains why so many shops especially if located in seasonal area don't want this work as many folks wouldn't know if their A/C works or not when extremely cold.


Beating up on this to save you. An analogy would be like taking a spray paint can out of your freezer and see how it works - get the idea?


Again depending on location for the shops the space is expensive all the time to even store stuff and for A/C specific things there's low demand or nothing for many months and not worth having it and a tech hanging around too if that's his/her specialty only when so much other work could be going on in that space,


Good luck. Think and know as you do now that it's not always so easy yet you may hear of someone who got away with something but not the disastrous ones! Tom

Response From Mufasa

Maybe i'd be best off just holding off on buying the compressor, and waiting till i can get to an auto elec to do a decent diagnostic, get all the damage before i do anything, see if they can tell me how bad it is, i'd still like to get a used compressor, but we'll see what happens

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sounds like a plan. Go ahead and talk to a specific tech now if only to get more ideas from them and ask if they have enough equipment for this plus the credentials as well.


One good thing is that if bearing for the clutch on compressor is good you have all the time you wish and could just ignore having A/C at all if you can and want to live without.


Many where I'm located when a vehicle is getting over 10 years, rusting, some miles already just pass on fixing and already were looking for newer or plain new vehicle entirely and spare the expense. You have a choice with this. You don't when it's brake problems or many other issues a vehicle can need,


Tom

Response From Discretesignals

What do you mean the compressor busted?

If the compressor grenaded, you'll need a lot more than a compressor. You'll need the condenser, possible hose if it has a muffler in it, drier, and a thermo-expansion valve. You'll also need to flush out the system using ac flush and dry compressed air. The compressor that came apart more than likely sent metal through out the system.

Your gamble if you want to stick a used compressor on. As a professional tech, I would never stick a used salvage yard compressor on someone's vehicle unless they requested it and sign the repair order stating there is no warranty on labor or the rest of the parts that could be affect by compressor failure.

Your best bet, if you want to do this yourself, is to have an ac shop recover the refrigerant that is in the system. Then you can perform your repairs and have the shop charge and test the system to be sure you did your repairs correctly. That would save you money on buying a bunch of support equipment that you will use very little.

Don't know where your getting $600 for a compressor unless your going through the dealer. You can get a GDP or Compressor Works new reman compressor for around $300. You get what you pay for.