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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Engine Control Modules

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Cardone
2003 Chrysler Town & Country Engine Control Module 6 Cyl 3.3L Cardone

P311-3C31FF0    Remanufactured

Qty:
$58.91 $201.46
Cardone Engine Control Module
  • Engine Control Computer - Chrysler/AMC
  • Vehicle specific Flash programming required ON or OFF the vehicle.Accurate VIN and mileage are req d
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Engine Control Computer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector/Terminal Configuration: Pin/male; Pin/male
    • Module Housing Material: Metal
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Removable PROM: No
    • Terminal Quantity: 40; 40
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Engine Control Modules (ECC) are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered to meet or exceed OEM performance. All modules are 100% computerized tested and resolder of critical components, as well as 100% replacement of common ware components, ensuring superior electrical connections. Remanufactured in the U.S.A., you can rest assured that only the highest quality materials are used, never cheap substitutes.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Fuel Type
2003 - Chrysler Town & Country V 3301 201 FLEX
Cardone
2005 Ford Freestar Engine Control Module 6 Cyl 4.2L Cardone

P311-5E8EBA5    Remanufactured

Qty:
$51.98 $182.44
Cardone Engine Control Module
  • Engine Control Computer - Ford
  • Vehicle specific Flash programming req d ON or OFF the vehicle.Accurate VIN and mileage are req d. Additional vehicle specific on-car programming must be performed AFTER installation to prevent drivability and starting issues.
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Engine Control Computer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector/Terminal Configuration: Pin/male
    • Module Housing Material: Metal
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Removable PROM: No
    • Terminal Quantity: 104
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Engine Control Modules (ECC) are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered to meet or exceed OEM performance. All modules are 100% computerized tested and resolder of critical components, as well as 100% replacement of common ware components, ensuring superior electrical connections. Remanufactured in the U.S.A., you can rest assured that only the highest quality materials are used, never cheap substitutes.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2005 - Ford Freestar V 4200 256
Cardone
1991 Ford Bronco Engine Control Module 8 Cyl 5.8L Cardone

P311-56ABB09    Remanufactured

Qty:
$76.23 $80.04
Cardone Engine Control Module
  • Engine Control Computer - Ford
  • Units are pre-programmed at the factory.
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Engine Control Computer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector/Terminal Configuration: Pin/male
    • Module Housing Material: Metal
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Removable PROM: No
    • Terminal Quantity: 60
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Engine Control Modules (ECC) are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered to meet or exceed OEM performance. All modules are 100% computerized tested and resolder of critical components, as well as 100% replacement of common ware components, ensuring superior electrical connections. Remanufactured in the U.S.A., you can rest assured that only the highest quality materials are used, never cheap substitutes.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Transmission
1991 - Ford Bronco V - 351 Automatic
Programa
1972 Mercedes-Benz 350SL Engine Control Module Programa

P311-1A9FB53    New

Qty:
$160.00 $730.95
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: -12-021761, Remanufactured
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1972 - Mercedes-Benz 350SL
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SE Engine Control Module Programa

P311-1A9FB53    New

Qty:
$160.00 $730.95
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: -12-029672, Remanufactured - Federal
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SE
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SE Engine Control Module Programa

P311-1A9FB53    New

Qty:
$160.00 $730.95
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: -12-029977, Remanufactured - California
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SE
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SEL Engine Control Module Programa

P311-1A9FB53    New

Qty:
$160.00 $730.95
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: -12-029417, Remanufactured - Federal
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SEL
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SEL Engine Control Module Programa

P311-1A9FB53    New

Qty:
$160.00 $730.95
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: -12-029458, Remanufactured - California
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SEL
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SLC Engine Control Module Programa

P311-1A9FB53    New

Qty:
$160.00 $730.95
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: -12-008202, Remanufactured
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SLC
Programa
1978 Mercedes-Benz 280CE Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 016971-, Remanufactured - Federal Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1978 - Mercedes-Benz 280CE
Programa
1978 Mercedes-Benz 280CE Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 016923-, Remanufactured - California Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1978 - Mercedes-Benz 280CE
Programa
1977 Mercedes-Benz 280E Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 063891-, Remanufactured - Federal Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1977 - Mercedes-Benz 280E
Programa
1977 Mercedes-Benz 280E Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 068874-, Remanufactured - California Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1977 - Mercedes-Benz 280E
Programa
1977 Mercedes-Benz 280SE Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 150380-, Remanufactured - Federal Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1977 - Mercedes-Benz 280SE
Programa
1977 Mercedes-Benz 280SE Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 150400-, Remanufactured - California Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1977 - Mercedes-Benz 280SE
Programa
1984 Mercedes-Benz 380SE Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Remanufactured Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - Mercedes-Benz 380SE
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SEL Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 096584-, Remanufactured - Federal Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SEL
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SEL Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 096390-, Remanufactured - California Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SEL
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SL Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 058397-, Remanufactured - California Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SL
Programa
1973 Mercedes-Benz 450SL Engine Control Module Programa

P311-4362CB9    New

Qty:
$80.00 $340.85
Programa Engine Control Module
  • Chas: 058372-, Remanufactured - Federal Bosch 0.280.800.038/039
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Programa
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Mercedes-Benz 450SL

Latest Engine Control Module Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Rough Cold Start

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From cars4chimps on Rough Cold Start

I got a rough cold start ('99 Olds Intrigue 3.5 - 150K) where I have to give it gas or it dies. But once the car is warmed up it starts okay. Also, the engine makes kind of a beating noise until it's warmed up, and then it purrs like a kitten. I don't think it's the battery, which is only 2 yrs old. Could it be the cold weather? Hmm, dunno. Thanks for your help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

How cold are you talking? Just first off, do you have the correct oil in it? If you went to a higher viscosity for some reason the starting will be slow and oil doesn't flow fast.
I can't speak for all oils but one I use and deal with both heat and cold with same oil rated for use in my own.
To me it's not cold to an engine till below zero Fahrenheit but is to the battery no matter how old but if it started at all it's not that,


T

Response From kev2

I agree "I don't think it's the battery".
As bill mentioned eng oil BUT playing with the throttle suggest other issues -
Start with a scan*- free and easy - post all codes someone will advise
cold weather starting issues would have me look at engine temp senor's and fuel system.
With a scanner look at ECT compare cold engine reading to ambient, look at fuel trims. Maybe fuel pressure and pressure leak down.


*free scans at most part store- yes scan even if light is off

Response From cars4chimps

Somebody suggested cleaning the throttle body which sounded like a pretty easy first step. So I removed some carbon build up around the edges and then I checked the inside of the butterfly valve, and whoa! It was coated in thick black oil. Well, it's fess up time because I was posting here last June about my overheating engine, and someone said I shouldn't drive an overheating car, and now I think I see why. This oil in the throttle body means a blown head gasket, right?

Response From Hammer Time

That oily buildup is normal but I doubt that would have any effect on your symptoms. It only effects idle speed stability.

Response From cars4chimps

Does anyone know which contacts to short on this OBD II connector to get the codes to flash? I assume that trick still works, it did on my '89 olds (which was a lot more reliable, but different story).

Right now I'm thinking ECT sensor which should be easy to replace, if only I could locate it!

One symptom I forgot to mention was it dies on low revs, especially when I come off the highway, sometimes it dies before I can bring it to a full stop.

Response From Hammer Time

Wrong assumption............... it does not work.

Response From cars4chimps

So now I'm in Texas where there's a lower elevation (more oxygen?) and it usually doesn't freeze overnight and the problem of starting has mostly gone away, except for last night it was freezing overnight and today even though it had warmed up to 60F I had to give it some gas to keep the engine going. Anyway, I finally got some codes:

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature High Input
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Please let me know your ideas. Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

Unless you unplugged that coolant sensor sometime with the key on and set a false code, you appear to have an issue with that circuit.

Response From cars4chimps

So I found the ECT (pretty sure that's it) behind and below the throttle body. Unfortunately, the wire (black and yellow) has been chewed off (rodents get up in there) and I can't find where the other end is. Anybody have a wiring diagram for the ECT??

Response From Hammer Time

All the wiring diagram is going to give you is the wire color and you already have that.

Response From Discretesignals

Mickey Mouse strikes again...lol

Response From cars4chimps Top Rated Answer

Unfortunately, the wires go down into a deep, dark place, but I found this on the internet:

"Your yellow wire goes into the engine control module pin 26 of connector 2. The Black wire goes into pin 12 of engine control module connector 1."

So where's the engine (power?) control module? Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

LOL..................... man, you need to quit while you're ahead.

It isn't going to do you a bit of good to find that end of the wire.

Response From cars4chimps

PCM located under the air box. Sounds like reconnecting the wires should be a snap.

Response From nickwarner

It might be a snap if you have a veterinarian willing to do a colonoscopy on a field mouse to get your parts back. You need the wiring for the harness repaired to factory standards. If you want to rig it, be warned that the cheapest repair is usually NOT the least expensive in the long run. Just this summer a customer of mine had a mouse issue with his truck. Decided to drive it anyhow while waiting for parts that I was going to put in arrived. Truck became an inferno in midtown.

He had me look very closely at his new truck and follows my advice now.

Response From Hammer Time

Oh yeah, piece of cake.

Just one thing.................. When you finish with your hacking and your car doesn't start, please post to a different forum.

Response From kev2

no - not an indicator.
THAT WAS EASIER (FIRST STEP) THAN GETTING CODES?
first suspect would be PCV. I think the EGR return to intake is right there (TB) on the 3.5L

2008 Nissan Titan, starts but won't stay running.

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From missbim2 on 2008 Nissan Titan, starts but won't stay running.

Fixed blown head gasket on my 2008 Nissan Titan, put it back together, starts but won't stay running. Checked everything we can think of, what else could it be?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Also scan the engine control module and record any trouble code(s) stored.

Response From missbim2

My husband said they figured it out. Something to do with the "cam" placement being off, hopefully that will fix it. Thank you so much for your help.

Response From Hammer Time

So, they put the timing chain on wrong. That will make it run pretty bad.

Response From Discretesignals

Thanks for the follow up on this and glad to read they figured it out. Closed as solved. Can be reopened upon request by the OP.

Response From Hammer Time

What's the fuel pressure?

fuel injectors not opening

Showing 9 out of 20 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From hammerhank on fuel injectors not opening

My elderly parents have a 1990 chevrolet caprice 5.7 liter engine which sits in a garage. Neither one drives anymore but my father has been faithfully starting the vehicle monthly for about a year. Approximately 2 months ago he tried to start it and it would not start. It was acting as though it was not getting any fuel. First I replace the fuel pump and fuel filter but that did not help. I then replaced the ignition module. That did not help either. The spark plugs are sparking but the fuel injectors are not opening to allow fuel through. I do not see any wires that might have been chewed by rats between the fuel injectors or distributor and the engine control module. I think the next thing for me to do is to check for continuity between the engine control module and something else but I'm unsure as to which color coded wires to check on the ECM. Or is there something else I should be checking? If I disconnect the gas line at the throttle body plenty of gas comes out when the fuel pump is running. Thanks for any help.

Response From Hammer Time

The next thing to check is to see if you have spark and then see if you have power to one side of the injectors with the key on.

Response From hammerhank

I have done that and there is spark and I do have power to one side of the injectors.

Response From Hammer Time

So, it will run if you spray something flammable in to the intake?

Response From hammerhank

Yes, if I manually spray gas in it runs.

Response From Hammer Time

Does your check engine light come on for bulb check when the key is turned on?

Response From hammerhank

Yes, check engine light comes on. I get a code 012 which flashes repeatedly. I understand that this is a normal reading for when the key is just turned on but engine not running.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, that is not normal unless you have the diagnostic connector jumped out.

Response From hammerhank

I do have the diagnostic connector jumped out.

Response From Hammer Time

If you've verified power supply it's coming down to an ECM or wiring. Make sure you have tested EVERY fuse with a test light.

Response From hammerhank

Thanks, you wouldn't happen to know which wires at the ECM go to the pertinant wires on the distributor and injectors, do you?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Question. Are you just getting this code 012 when checking? I'm not at my shop but I'll look that up in a paper book I have. That may just mean it's sees what it can see and means little. 1990 can be funky what was monitored as many OBDIs that I did check now back when - when there was a problem.

From memory (long retired) just one code when checked means you have a connection to whatever brains it has. If this isn't getting fuel it just might have plugged injectors up tight as gas now especially with the ethanol really suks as Nick said. The stabilizers aren't even all that great.

Whatever - when fixed if your folks want to have this car still it has to be driven and gas used up for new by someone. At least being garaged if dry in that one other crap should be ok like brakes and more.

I've seen tons of brand new cars - no miles but a year old need all new brakes before they had 50 miles on them as I don't any new car dealers that store all those cars indoors and some get old before sold new. My own late Dad used to buy the bargains and a couple times needed dumb stuff just from being outdoors even without our salted roads just in their lots and you know they aren't going to drive them to prevent that - too many cars.

If this ends up a fuel disaster it will be work to clean it up,

T

Response From hammerhank

I followed instructions that I had found somewhere on the web for getting the diagnostic code to flash on the dash. It involved jumping two pin connections on the diagnostic connector under the dash and turning the key on (but not trying to start). The result of doing this was that 012 flashed repeatedly. Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not going back out but as I recall the first code as done properly by jumping connector will just say YES we are working and think it does the blink thing three times then a longer pause it could give you another series of blinks if any else was there or probably just keep repeating that it's connected.

Silly as it is you are just converting blinks to #s. Then just look up that #.

I say you have no info stored to help so back to figuring it out and you already know that spraying in throttle body it can run so it's a fuel issue and no OBD1 set up would tell you of a clogged fuel filter for example or now OBDII has 100s of things monitored.

Just know that even with a code it doesn't mean that item if it picks one is the problem it's a problem with that either wiring, connections or who knows sometimes.

I didn't have a ton of faith in OBD1 to help much. Frequently back in the stone age you could just find something by sight or knew where to go looking.

You have a history on this which help narrow it down. What will fix it and stay fixed remains impossible to know to me right now. Good luck with it,

Tom

Response From Discretesignals

NOID light time to see if the computer is controlling injector ground.

You need to check fuel pressure...watch this video....seeing fuel pour out the hose isn't a conclusive test.


Response From hammerhank

The car is now running. The last thing I did before a successful start was to disassemble the Throttle Body as far as I could with simple tools and inspect it. I did not find anything which I thought might be a problem and re-assembled it. After that it started right up. I don't know what the problem was but thanks for everyone's help.

Response From Hammer Time

I guess that means that we are totally out in left field with the injector control theory.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You had some good luck there. Now you at least know the area of trouble if this happens again. Guess we'll never know exactly why that worked which can be scary. Just maybe something you had to do to do that was the trouble even some silly electrical connection that now has better contact?

Thanks for the follow up,

Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I actually did just go look at that old book. Might be wrong but your code just means that check to computer is operational only nothing more. It doesn't monitor everything in a vehicle and it didn't list it a 012 but just "12"

I'm back to thinking this is lousy fuel that can make a gel that sometimes can be cleared out.

Some seasonal crap I own SeaFoam worked and now I dump gas out of stuff and run them dry - yard care crap,

T

Response From nickwarner

Since it hasn't been driven for a year, is the gas in it also over a year old? Ethanol will gum up and degrade faster than normal gasoline.