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97 geo tracker check engine light

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From garonedstrom on 97 geo tracker check engine light

my check engine light keeps comming on, I hooked to the computer to diagnose and it said my egr valve needed replaced, so I did so and the light came back on, does anyone have any answers.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, it didn't say your EGR valve needed replacing. It gave you specific information concerning the EGR system that needs to be diagnosed properly.
What was the exact code number?

95 Geo Prizm acting up

Showing 6 out of 7 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From adiobampro369 on 95 Geo Prizm acting up

My 95 Geo Prizm is acting funny and I have done a few things to try to fix it. Well my computer was saying Error code 72 which is my EGR Valve. I replaced it and cleaned out my Intake manifold. It was running good then it started to do it again. Well what happens is my car will be running fine when Im driving then sometimes it will start to make rapid sputtering sound then start to run fine again. But then if I try to kinda punch the gas and get going quick it will speed up then when the RPMS get high cut out then cut back in. Like it will start going fast then slowing down right when before it goes to switch gears. Please help. I will try to explain more with questions you ask but its hard to describe the sounds on the Oh and I have replaced the fuel pump and I got one from a junk yard and I think it goes to a 1.6 liter engine and mine is a 1.8. So i dont know its maybe the pump is trying to suck gas in and the engine is going faster then what the pump can pull? i dont even know if that is a possibilty.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

adio; According to my specs, the 1.6 and 1.8 use the same fuel pump; The pressure spec is 38-44psi. Did you check or replace the fuel filter?
The EGR won't affect engine performance unless it is open or leaking. I have seen 'over-agressive' EGRs. Many of the 'aftermarket' valves have multiple orifaces which you must identify as the correct one for your application. You may want to plug the vacuum line and take it for a drive? Have the codes pulled again and post here.
The engine does have a rev-limiter, so once you get to that pre-set engine speed, which should be around 4500rpm, it won't go any higher. What you are describing could be a lack of fuel or even a misfire.

Response From adiobampro369 Top Rated Answer

I never messed with the fuel Filter. Sorry about the late reply. Could that make my car stop taking fuel when im cruising at about 60? if my car idling it will just shut off. but it fires right up but its like the fuel is clogged or something. but i blew out the lines from the fuel pump up to the injector rack clean with an air hose. Someone told me that my pump might be working harder then what it can handle. if i turn the ac on the it starts to act up so i thought the pump was acting up when i start to over work it.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

adiobampro; I always recommend replacing the fuel filter when replacing the pump. It is a maintenance item that should be replaced at least once a year or 15K miles. That may be overkill, but better to replace a filter than a fuel pump. You can burn out a pump if the filter is restricted or plugged. Or, allowing the fuel level to be low too many times. You still may have other issues, but I'd start with the filter.

Response From adiobampro369

Alright, I see what you mean and I looked the parts up. And hopefully I will be able to go buy one today. Thank you for the help! I will post up and let you know if it worked or not. Once again Thank you both of you!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

adio; Don't thank us, yet. Let's see if we get lucky, first.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Toss fuel filters often! The junk we get for fuel isn't as good as it once was - depending on where you are. Places that mandate use of alch in with the real gas causes the fuel at the gas stations and in you tank to suspend debris rather than sit quietly at the bottom. It might not be the issue but make a habit of putting in new ones a lot more often then book might even suggest.

Any is better than non doing it - I prefer NAPA Gold filters or Wix which should actually be the same,


sudden drop in MPG in 92 Geo Metro?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From richard123 on sudden drop in MPG in 92 Geo Metro?

This is a 3 cyl engine. Car has consistently gotten 35-36 mpg. I took it on a longer trip ( about 200 miles) and got 39. The very next tank mpg dropped to 27-28. The air filter is new. The EGR valve is working. It moves on acceleration and also I removed it and verifiied both pressure and vacuum with it removed. I also test the oxygen sensor and it was varying up and down as it should. I can not say whether the speed is normal or not. I don't want to replace anything unnecessarily. I also looked around for loose wires or leaky hoses and found nothing. I want my old mileage back. Just when gas prices dropped a little my cost went up. Car drives perfectly normal. What are likely bets.

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

No check engine light right?
Has it had a full maintenance service done in the past 15-25,000 miles?
Have you checked your tire pressure?
Buying gas at a different place?

os sensors

Showing 4 out of 8 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From jnlcars on os sensors

on a 1997 geo prizm with a 1.6 motor with 174863 miles/3 sp A/T a transmission the check engine light came on with codes po130 witch is pre-converter o2sensor an a po133 witch is a pre-converter o2 sensor circuit slow response fault an a po135 pre-converter o2 sensor heater fault i have replaced both o2sensors as well as as throttle position switch egr valve along with a tune up plugs cap rotor wires timein belt car starts but uses way to much gas an takes forever to get to speed. like said i have relaced both o2 sensors an started testing wires an right now at a dead end please help wife car

Response From Discretesignals

Welp, as you know now just because there is an O2 code doesn't necessary mean the O2 is the culprit. That is a trap that most people fall in.

You need to do some prelim checks. Your not going to be able to do much without a scan tool and some engine data information.

You can start by checking fuel pressure with a gauge while the problem is occurring. Fuel pressure should be around 38-44 psi and shouldn't drop out under acceleration. You mentioned you believe it was running rich. Check the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it isn't leaking on the vacuum side. You could have injector flow problems, but you need special tools to be able to diagnose that properly. Also check for vacuum leaks.

Response From jnlcars

you are right about that with the o2 sensors throwing a code a ghost code. i have checked all the following and everything checked out fine. but there was one problem that was unseen!!! apparently somebody else has had a similar problem an and had it fixed before the wiring was all cut up and bare wires were exposed after the electric tape had came apart under the plastic sleeve there was no shielding in place as it was shorting out several other components but ty

Response From Hammer Time

you are right about that with the o2 sensors throwing a code a ghost code.

Ghost code?......... No such thing, only problems that techs can't figure out

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Miles and now poor acceleration/power AND using too much fuel I'd be check for exhaust restriction(s) as too unburned much fuel can overload a converter in fairly short order from the initial problem,


Response From jnlcars Top Rated Answer

for everyone my problem was the engine wiring harness that falls though the fire wall and connects to the ecm an its fixed ty

Response From Sidom kidding on finding it..............good job..............I hate tracing shorts..........

Response From Hammer Time

See, someone else would have given up and just called it a "ghost code".

Congrats on finding it.