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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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    ACDelco
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    Cardone
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    Dorman
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    Fabtech
  • GKN Drivetech
    GKN Drivetech
  • GKN Loebro
    GKN Loebro
  • Genuine
    Genuine
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    Skyjacker
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    USA Industries

Best Selling Genuine Replacement Drive Shafts

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Cardone
2006 Mitsubishi Raider Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-43BADB0    65-9151  Remanufactured

52105982AC

Qty:
$29.70 $352.44
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the face of the flange on one end to the face of the flange on the other end of a collapsed Prop Shaft. Applications that only have a flange on one end should be measured from that flange to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Face Of The Flange On One End To The Face Of The Flange On The Other End Of A Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 50.93
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Trans. Speed Drive Type Position
2006 - Mitsubishi Raider Automatic 5 4WD Front
Cardone
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 Drive Shaft - Front 6 Cyl 5.9L Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-4BDEDFC    65-9538  Remanufactured

52105932AG , 52105932AE

Qty:
$29.70 $359.44
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken by measuring the Tube length only. Measure from the centerline of the weld on one end to the centerline of the weld on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken By Measuring The Tube Length Only. Measure From The Centerline Of The Weld On One End To The Centerline Of The Weld On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 50.93
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Dodge Ram 3500 Manual Front L 6 Cyl 5.9L 359 -
Cardone
2000 Dodge Ram 3500 Drive Shaft - Front 10 Cyl 8.0L Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-0EDB620    65-9107  Remanufactured

52105278AB

Qty:
$29.70 $294.60
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.51
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 63.63
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Trans. Speed Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Dodge Ram 3500 Manual 6 Front V 10 Cyl 8.0L 488 7990
GKN Drivetech
2004 Land Rover Discovery Drive Shaft GKN Drivetech

P311-231CE28    W0133-1651670  New

Qty:
$808.23
GKN Drivetech Drive Shaft
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Land Rover Discovery
GKN Drivetech
2013 Land Rover LR4 Drive Shaft GKN Drivetech

P311-143BEDC    W0133-2040327  New

Qty:
$402.10
GKN Drivetech Drive Shaft
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Land Rover LR4
Dorman
2002 Ford Ranger Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-05EF0D6    W0133-1923125  New

Qty:
$582.64
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Drive Type
2002 - Ford Ranger Edge Manual 4WD
Dorman
1997 Ford Explorer Drive Shaft 8 Cyl 5.0L Dorman

P311-559461B    W0133-1923126  New

Qty:
$566.20
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Ford Explorer AWD V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Genuine
2014 Mercedes-Benz E300 Drive Shaft Genuine

P311-2B49881    W0133-2037914  New

Qty:
$1,119.20
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Mercedes-Benz E300
Dorman
2006 BMW X3 Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-26B594A    W0133-1823769  New

Qty:
$639.99
  • Production: 12/01/2005-
  • L = 702mm
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - BMW X3 Fr:12-01-05
Genuine
2010 BMW X5 Drive Shaft Genuine

P311-2B4301A    W0133-2035121  New

Qty:
$247.37
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 04/01/2010-
  • L = 709mm
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2010 - BMW X5 M Fr:04-01-10
Genuine
2018 BMW X5 Drive Shaft Genuine

P311-2B4301A    W0133-2035121  New

Qty:
$247.37
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • L = 709mm
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2018 - BMW X5 xDrive35i
Genuine
2016 BMW X6 Drive Shaft Genuine

P311-2B4301A    W0133-2035121  New

Qty:
$247.37
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Only in conjunction with (1) 33 12 7 607 158 repair kit insert nut
  • L = 709mm
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2016 - BMW X6 xDrive50i
Dorman
1999 Subaru Legacy Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-4446CE4    W0133-1982199  New

Qty:
$840.50
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
1999 - Subaru Legacy SUS 30th Anniversary Automatic
Dorman
1999 Subaru Legacy Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-4446CE4    W0133-1982199  New

Qty:
$840.50
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
1999 - Subaru Legacy SUS 30th Anniversary Automatic
Dorman
2003 Infiniti FX45 Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-39A7060    W0133-1827916  New

Qty:
$705.98
  • Production: 11/01/2002-
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti FX45 Fr:11-01-02
Dorman
2012 Infiniti EX35 Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-39A7060    W0133-1827916  New

Qty:
$705.98
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2012 - Infiniti EX35 AWD
Dorman
2006 Infiniti FX45 Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-39A7060    W0133-1827916  New

Qty:
$705.98
  • Production: -10/31/2005
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Infiniti FX45 To:10-31-05
Dorman
2006 Infiniti FX45 Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-39A7060    W0133-1827916  New

Qty:
$705.98
  • Production: 11/01/2005-
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Infiniti FX45 Fr:11-01-05
Dorman
2007 Infiniti G35 Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-39A7060    W0133-1827916  New

Qty:
$705.98
  • Production: 08/01/2006-
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Body Drive Type Manuf. Body Code Prod. Date Range
2007 - Infiniti G35 VQ35HR Sedan AWD V36 Fr:08-01-06
GKN Drivetech
2009 Volkswagen Touareg Drive Shaft GKN Drivetech

P311-4D244B6    W0133-1916819  New

Qty:
$674.81
GKN Drivetech Drive Shaft
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2009 - Volkswagen Touareg TDI

Latest Drive Shaft Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

mondeo mk2 drive shaft

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From numnuts on mondeo mk2 drive shaft

Hi i have a ford mondeo mk2 ghia x year 2000 2000cc i am trying to change the near side drive shaft i have taken of the parts of to revile the drive shaft in the manual it seed that if the drive shaft is stuck to get a flat tool and place behind the drive shaft and give it a hit with the back of the hand i have tried for hours to release the shaft but it will not come out of the gear box it is stuck please help many thanks Richard.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Sometimes they are very hard to get out. You need a very strong bar and a hard snapping action.

Response From numnuts

Thanks i will try again tomorrow all the best Richard.

2002 GMC Drive shaft problem

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From markjr77 on 2002 GMC Drive shaft problem

2002
GMC Sierra 1500
5.3L

Hi everyone need advice PLEASE!
My u-joint broke at the yoke on the drive shaft, while replacing both u-joints i could not pull my slip yoke out of the transmission. Now i have both u-joints on the drive shaft and trying to bolt to the rear differential but my drive shaft will not reach it's about 2" to short.
thanks for any help anyone could provide.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Duplicate posts just confuse things so please don't. This one locked.... T

Leaking front drive shaft seal

Showing 5 out of 8 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From sharon.72064 on Leaking front drive shaft seal

2003 GMC Duramax 3/4 ton 4 X drive Sierra

There is leaking on the front drive shaft seal. How do I replace the seal, and is this something I can do myself. I do all my mechanic work. Do I need any special tools? Is there a video out instructing how to do this?
Appreciate your help, thanks
Stan

Response From Discretesignals

Front drive shaft seal? Do you mean front differential pinion seal or transfer case front output shaft seal?

Response From sharon.72064

where shaft comes out of transmission. Main drive shaft goes to the rear end. Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Stan

Response From Discretesignals

You mean the rear drive shaft then? The transfer case rear output shaft seal?

Response From sharon.72064 Top Rated Answer

Sorry for all the problems I've given you. Yes, it would be the rear drive shaft. Sure hope this answers your question.

Response From Discretesignals

No problems, just wanted to know which seal you where wanting to know about.


Set the parking brake and chock a tire
Remove the transfer case shield, if there is one.
Mark the position of the driveshaft.
Remove the driveshaft.
Pop the seal out
Press a new seal in

* NOTE: Make sure the hole in the seal is facing down before you press it in. You can use a big socket and dead blow to push it in.

Lube the seal where it rides on the drive shaft with some white grease.

Reinstall the drive shaft in the the same position it was removed.
Check the fluid level in the transfer case.

Response From sharon.72064

Thank you very much for all the help & advice you gave me in resolving this problem. I ordered the seal from my local parts house, should be in Monday. I will attempt this than, and understanding as I do, know it will resolve the issue. Thank you for your time as a volunteer. This is the second time this website has helped me. Keep up the outstanding job.
Thanks,
Stan

Response From Discretesignals

You welcome! Let us know how things turn out.

New Drive shaft for a Grumman LLV Postal Mail truck?

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From herbdom11 on New Drive shaft for a Grumman LLV Postal Mail truck?

Hi I recently came about an older Grumman LLV postal mail truck, in great shape but the drive shaft is shot. I have no idea what to replace it with and where I would get it. I have done a decent amount of research but found nothing on Grumman vehicle parts. Any recommendations would be great and I am grateful for your time. Thanks

Response From nickwarner

Try just taking it to a driveshaft shop. If your IP is showing correctly to me then your area of Cali has plenty of shops that can make one for you, and probably cheaper than buying one surplus. You can also try Tom Woods driveshafts in Utah, he specializes in off-road stuff but can make most anything you want. I'm not sure if you have a FleetPride in your area, but if you do they build driveshafts and I have used them for a lot of semitruck shafts. Never had a single issue with one they built.

These are actually pretty easy to build. As long as they have the yokes from the old shaft or can order new ones, they only need to weld them to the correct size of tubing and then balance it to create it. I've built a few myself for strictly off-road, as I did not have a way to balance them and they were just for yard trucks. So long as it is welded in straight and the welds are full pen they hold great, but if unbalanced you get a wicked vibration at speed.

If you can't find what you need locally, feel free to PM me and I can set you up with a guy I know who has a driveshaft shop. He is fair on price and it may be worth the extra postage. His shop is in Chippewa Falls, WI.

Response From herbdom11 Top Rated Answer

Thanks I found a place that will help me rebuild the old driveShaft, thanks for responding quick.

Response From kev2

did you try a GOOGLE search for parts...must be someone somewhere sellig

Towing a RWD S10 Blazer

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From pspeir on Towing a RWD S10 Blazer

I have a 1993 Chevy Blazer S10 RWD and am needing to tow it across country using a tow dolly with the front wheels off the ground. It seems I could just put it in neutral but I've heard I may have to disconnect the driveshaft. If so, how hard is this to do and...well, how would one go about doing that?

Response From dmac0923

for the distance your traveling i would def disconnect the driveshaft.

Response From Jeff Norfolk Top Rated Answer

Yes you will need to disconnect the drive shaft or risk damage to the trans. It is not to difficult to remove the drive shaft itself, but if you tow the truck with it out you will likely leak trans fluid all over the place. There is a drive shaft disconnect that can be installed but it usually requires cutting the drive shaft and welding in new parts. It usually cost around $500 or so. If you do want to pull the drive shaft off then I would recommend dropping the pan on the tran and draining the fluid before towing. Good Luck

Response From pspeir

Thanks for the advice. I've been told by other people much the same things: I can either remove the entire drive shaft and install a plug of some sort or simply disconnect the driveshaft from the rear, where it connects to the U Joint, tie it up and duct tape the "caps" on the U joint. Though I'm not sure what caps are--I'm obviously no mechanic--I've heard it's only four bolts to disconnect the drive shaft, and surely I can figure out what to duct tape from there. I have to get under the car and check it all out, but surely there's a place to tie up the drive shaft. Although this seems fairly easy, any advice or comments on this course of action would be helpful. The move is budgeted down to the penny and I just don't have money to purchase a plug or the knowhow to remove the drive shaft. It seems the easiest course of action is the best in this case, and removing four bolts, tying it up and duct taping the caps seems easiest. But--is it the best?

Thanks again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Though I'm not sure what caps are--I'm obviously no mechanic--The move is budgeted down to the penny and I just don't have money to purchase a plug or the knowhow to remove the drive shaft. It seems the easiest course of action is the best in this case, and removing four bolts, tying it up and duct taping the caps seems easiest. But--is it the best?

Thanks again.

Hi,

Shaft really should be removed from rear differential. Ok: If I guess exactly what is at that connection I'd be wrong so I'll suggest either way it could be. Some use "U" bolt - four nuts, some are a plate with four bolts. If "U" bolt the bearing caps can just come off when not restrained by being in place so you would duct tape them in place trying not to let them fall off and all the little needles go flying. If so you could just get a new U-joint if all is lost - cheap as things go.

I'm pretty sure this driveshaft is just two U-joints and pulls right out of trans which will leak where shaft goes in. If you were just taking the shaft out for working on it or any reason it would only leak so much and quit with limited loss of ATF. This is going to be hauled with front up so rear would be down and with bumps etc on the way could leak a lot! As Jeff suggested, drain the ATF. You do that by dropping the pan by the bolts (I don't think it uses a drain plug) Put pan back on - good time to replace gasket and filter but don't refill till at destination. Essentially you are doing a trans oil and filter change in this process but not refilling for the trip and will have to finish then. The total # of quarts of ATF needed is not known by me but a guess would be about 5 quarts. Try to count what comes out so you know it will take that much later and top off with care not to overfill later.

Driveshaft: If there was a way to just leave it in place but disconnected for this trip you could avoid all this. Not that simple as it could fall out and we don't want to read about that. Best to remove shaft and store it in vehicle somehow. Cover the open trans end with plastic of some creation to prevent dirt and water from getting in there while enroute. It's oil so use plastic that will tolerate that and tie it on with your imagination. Tapes may not hold - wire or plastic wire ties perhaps -you decide.

Note on driveshaft: Index the position before you take anything apart. Use tire marker or paint - whatever works for you so you can put shaft back on in same position it was in when removed. This is for the rear position. Front won't matter. Save the hardware for later. Shaft will go on rear end one of two ways and will work either way. Best to keep original position if possible for balance. That position may have been lost over the years anyhow but best now to at least have it where it worked right before.
______________
If this is just RWD not 4X4 then towing with drive wheels off ground would save all this. That or a trailer keeping whole vehicle off the ground.

The issue is the driveshaft to trans will turn if wheels are turning and with engine off there's no lube for the transmission which is being turned by that driveshaft alone. That's ok for emergency limited towing but not for a trip and may be outlined in the owner's manual for the exact vehicle's drivetrain.

Pay attention to this as it is as important as you think!

T

Response From pspeir

Well...I'm speechless! Such a well thought out and in depth reply! I sincerely appreciate all the help I've received. Maybe now I should ask for donations so I can spring for the more expensive tow-dolly with all wheels off the ground! Lol...no, of course not. Actually I think the transmission could use a filter and fluid change, so maybe this is the time to get it done. One further question, though: Why would it be difficult to just tie up the drive shaft? Some people have said this would be a cinch while others, like yourself, have implied it would be difficult and not reliable.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hope your eyes don't hurt - my middle name is VERBOS!

Yes - you could tie the shaft up - that's what I'd do but I have bars, brackets and clamps such that it wouldn't fall and if I didn't like my handiwork I'd take it off. Again - it's really only held from the back bolts to diff and the front just slides out but if it was secured VERY well it wouldn't. Keep in mind engine/trans will still move some relative to body/frame with bumps while towed too!

Tricky - I suggest taking it out for you. Can't risk that falling off as it could damage your own vehicle and then be a total street weapon. You have to plan to sustain pot holes and whatever road hazards enroute. Write this off as a trans fluid and filter service so you really take care of two things at once here. Also gives you a good feel for how good the U-joints are and you might find one or both ready to do also.

Be safe. Again - it is important. It is archived at this site somewhere with someone who had a problem after a long tow of perhaps about this same vehicle, did nothing with the driveshaft and it had ruined the trans!

Be safe,

T

Response From pspeir

I have one more question: It appears we'll have to tow the car initially between forty and fifty miles before we can disconnect the driveshaft. Will it hurt it to tow it this short distance in neutral?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Right out of an owner's manual for towing for a Ford (same ideas) suggests that it can in an emergency be towed in neutral at speeds up to 35mph for 50 miles. I still don't like that much.

If you do this A or B. With all care taken you could leave engine running or stop and run engine for a couple miles now and then along the trip. HEY - RUNNING AN ENGINE WITH THE VEHICLE UNATTENDED INSIDE IS DANGEROUS BY NATURE. That's not to say I suggest someone be in it either!

Guess: If you just stopped and ran the engine and engaged trans, R, N, D etc along route a couple times that would really help then back to N for more towing. The 35mph thing counts. I know that's annoying but pay attention. It's a pill but I'd probably stop every 15 miles and plain drive it.

The deal is that transmissions only have pumps in the front and are engine driven. If you are as old as dirt like I am you may recall ones with pumps on both ends! That pumping is what allow for hydraulically actuating everything in the trans, keeping it cooler and lubed. Just note that the old trick of pushing a car and putting it in gear with a failed starter to turn the engine won't work in an automatic as proof there's no hydraulic pressure to engage it. Manual trans would still "turn" the engine that way.

See if your own owner's manual has any special suggestions as well. This is discussed in all I've ever read,

T

Response From pspeir

Thanks for your help. I'll take it all into consideration. My owner's manual is sadly lacking in towing advice. It only tells you the best route to towing a manual or 4wd Blazer, but mine is automatic and RWD. Likely I'll end up driving 35MPH and stopping every fifteen miles or so to turn it on and shift gears. Other people have told me much the same thing.

Response From pspeir

Thanks to everybody for all the advice and we did make it safely on our nearly 800 mile trip. The moment before I was to disconnect the driveshaft our neighbor, who--had I only known!--is a mechanic came over and said "why are you doing that? It's rear wheel drive, the steering wheel locks--just back it up and tow it backwards!" And so I did, and so it worked splendidly. Now we know that you can tow a 1993 Chevy Blazer S10 RWD backwards, so long as the steering wheel locks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote from my prior post______________
"If this is just RWD not 4X4 then towing with drive wheels off ground would save all this. That or a trailer keeping whole vehicle off the ground."
____________

Glad the trip went well. I asked if this was just rear wheel drive if you could haul it with "drive" wheels off ground which is all any vehicle needs. Sorry that got lost is the length of the thread. I didn't know what kind of tow thing you were using but when towing rear only drive vehicles you then need to secure the steering wheel from turning which they do anyway if locking mechanism works properly but most would still suggest tieing it so it can't turn much if something were to happen.

Again - Glad to hear trip went well with no hassles,

T

Response From pspeir

No no, that was absolutely my fault. Now that you bring it to my attention I do recall reading that. Somehow or another it slipped my mind. Well, it all worked out, and thanks again for all the help. I do appreciate it.

Response From way2old

Glad you made it to your destination safely. Here, have a beverage of your choice on me. (_)3

Response From pspeir

Okay, good advice all the way around. I'll take it all into consideration and make a decision. Likely I'll take the whole thing out. Seems the best way to go. Before I started this whole train of thought I knew nothing about drive shafts or U Joints. After watching Youtube videos and talking to you guys I feel like an expert! Which is good. I think I can do it. :-)