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Best Selling Genuine Mitsubishi Drive Shafts

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We stock Drive Shaft parts for most Mitsubishi models, including Montero, Montero Sport, Outlander, Outlander Sport.

Cardone
2006 Mitsubishi Raider Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-43BADB0    65-9151  Remanufactured

52105982AC

Qty:
$18.90 $354.34
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement taken from end of flange face to end of CV joint flange face; w/26 3/8" (670 mm) Prop Shaft
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed To Ensure Proper Fit And Optimal Performance.
      • All Slip Yokes Are Lubricated To Prevent Premature Wear.
      • Built To Match O.e. Form, Fit And Function.
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life.
  • CARDONE has extensive experience in testing and engineering prop shafts – we’ve spent years analyzing materials and processes to arrive at a superior, longer-lasting product. Each unit is engineered and built to match O.E. performance. Additionally, all CARDONE New Prop Shafts are 100% dynamically balanced, resulting in vibration-free performance at all speeds.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Trans. Speed Drive Type Position
2006 - Mitsubishi Raider Automatic 5 4WD Front
Cardone
2006 Mitsubishi Raider Drive Shaft - Front 6 Cyl 3.7L Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-24CACEA    65-9514  Remanufactured

52105981AC

Qty:
$18.90 $397.63
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement taken from end of flange face to end of CV joint flange face; w/24 1/4" (616 mm) Prop Shaft
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed To Ensure Proper Fit And Optimal Performance.
      • All Slip Yokes Are Lubricated To Prevent Premature Wear.
      • Built To Match O.e. Form, Fit And Function.
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life.
  • CARDONE has extensive experience in testing and engineering prop shafts – we’ve spent years analyzing materials and processes to arrive at a superior, longer-lasting product. Each unit is engineered and built to match O.E. performance. Additionally, all CARDONE New Prop Shafts are 100% dynamically balanced, resulting in vibration-free performance at all speeds.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Trans. Speed Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mitsubishi Raider Automatic 4 4WD Front V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Cardone
2008 Mitsubishi Raider Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-4FB520F    65-3020  Remanufactured

Qty:
$455.78
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • with 69-1/4" Long Driveshaft; Measurement is taken from end of flange face to end of slip yoke
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed To Ensure Proper Fit And Optimal Performance.
      • All Slip Yokes Are Lubricated To Prevent Premature Wear.
      • Built To Match O.e. Form, Fit And Function.
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life.
  • CARDONE has extensive experience in testing and engineering prop shafts – we’ve spent years analyzing materials and processes to arrive at a superior, longer-lasting product. Each unit is engineered and built to match O.E. performance. Additionally, all CARDONE New Prop Shafts are 100% dynamically balanced, resulting in vibration-free performance at all speeds.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Drive Type Position
2008 - Mitsubishi Raider Automatic 4WD Rear
Cardone
1995 Mitsubishi Montero Drive Shaft - Front 6 Cyl 3.0L Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-1FD0D0B    65-9478  Remanufactured

Qty:
$16.20 $412.40
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • ; w/23 3/4" (603 mm) Prop Shaft Measurement is taken from the face of the flange on one end to the face of the flange on the other end of a collapsed Prop Shaft. Applications that only have a flange on one end should be measured from that flange to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed To Ensure Proper Fit And Optimal Performance.
      • All Slip Yokes Are Lubricated To Prevent Premature Wear.
      • Built To Match O.e. Form, Fit And Function.
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life.
  • CARDONE has extensive experience in testing and engineering prop shafts – we’ve spent years analyzing materials and processes to arrive at a superior, longer-lasting product. Each unit is engineered and built to match O.E. performance. Additionally, all CARDONE New Prop Shafts are 100% dynamically balanced, resulting in vibration-free performance at all speeds.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Mitsubishi Montero Automatic 4WD Front V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Cardone
2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Drive Shaft - Front 6 Cyl 3.0L Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-5225862    65-9282  Remanufactured

Qty:
$27.00 $443.15
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • ; w/12 1/2" (317 mm) Prop Shaft Measurement is taken by measuring the Tube length only. Measure from the centerline of the weld on one end to the centerline of the weld on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed To Ensure Proper Fit And Optimal Performance.
      • All Slip Yokes Are Lubricated To Prevent Premature Wear.
      • Built To Match O.e. Form, Fit And Function.
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life.
  • CARDONE has extensive experience in testing and engineering prop shafts – we’ve spent years analyzing materials and processes to arrive at a superior, longer-lasting product. Each unit is engineered and built to match O.E. performance. Additionally, all CARDONE New Prop Shafts are 100% dynamically balanced, resulting in vibration-free performance at all speeds.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport 4WD Front V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Cardone
2003 Mitsubishi Outlander Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-0EC4C2F    65-3008  Remanufactured

MN147054

Qty:
$600.60
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement taken from end of flange face to end of input shaft; w/80 1/8" (2035 mm) Prop Shaft
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed To Ensure Proper Fit And Optimal Performance.
      • All Slip Yokes Are Lubricated To Prevent Premature Wear.
      • Built To Match O.e. Form, Fit And Function.
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life.
  • CARDONE has extensive experience in testing and engineering prop shafts – we’ve spent years analyzing materials and processes to arrive at a superior, longer-lasting product. Each unit is engineered and built to match O.E. performance. Additionally, all CARDONE New Prop Shafts are 100% dynamically balanced, resulting in vibration-free performance at all speeds.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2003 - Mitsubishi Outlander AWD Rear
Cardone
2012 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-24446D8    65-3009  Remanufactured

3401A022

Qty:
$541.48
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Before 01/2012 Measurement taken from end of flange face to end of input shaft ; w/81 3/16" (2061 mm) Prop Shaft
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed To Ensure Proper Fit And Optimal Performance.
      • All Slip Yokes Are Lubricated To Prevent Premature Wear.
      • Built To Match O.e. Form, Fit And Function.
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life.
  • CARDONE has extensive experience in testing and engineering prop shafts – we’ve spent years analyzing materials and processes to arrive at a superior, longer-lasting product. Each unit is engineered and built to match O.E. performance. Additionally, all CARDONE New Prop Shafts are 100% dynamically balanced, resulting in vibration-free performance at all speeds.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2012 - Mitsubishi Outlander Sport 4WD Rear
Cardone
2009 Mitsubishi Outlander Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-24446D8    65-3009  Remanufactured

3401A022

Qty:
$541.48
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement taken from end of flange face to end of input shaft; w/81 3/16" (2061 mm) Prop Shaft
  • Reman. Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed To Ensure Proper Fit And Optimal Performance.
      • All Slip Yokes Are Lubricated To Prevent Premature Wear.
      • Built To Match O.e. Form, Fit And Function.
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life.
  • CARDONE has extensive experience in testing and engineering prop shafts – we’ve spent years analyzing materials and processes to arrive at a superior, longer-lasting product. Each unit is engineered and built to match O.E. performance. Additionally, all CARDONE New Prop Shafts are 100% dynamically balanced, resulting in vibration-free performance at all speeds.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2009 - Mitsubishi Outlander AWD Rear
First Equipment Quality
2006 Mitsubishi Raider Drive Shaft First Equipment Quality - 1

P311-12BA56E    W0133-1985105  New

Qty:
$562.78
First Equipment Quality Drive Shaft
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • 1
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Trans. Speed Drive Type
2006 - Mitsubishi Raider DuroCross 4 4WD
First Equipment Quality
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Drive Shaft First Equipment Quality - 1

P311-12BA56E    W0133-1985105  New

Qty:
$562.78
First Equipment Quality Drive Shaft
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; Production: -09/30/2006
  • 1
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Drive Type Prod. Date Range
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider 4 4WD To:09-30-06
First Equipment Quality
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Drive Shaft First Equipment Quality

P311-108FE50    W0133-1985106  New

Qty:
$556.81
First Equipment Quality Drive Shaft
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Drive Type
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider 5 4WD

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Drive Shaft Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Used Transmision is buzzing after putting it in?

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Kenna4101 on Used Transmision is buzzing after putting it in?

We Have put a used Transmission in our Mitsubishi Montaro Sport. It is a all wheel drive 3.5L motor. 2003. What would make the transmission make a buzzing sound when you put it in any gear other than N.

Response From HT

A dirty filter or low fluid are likely causes.

Response From Kenna4101 Top Rated Answer

Well along with making the buzzing sound it will not move. When you put the Transmission in N you can't turn the front Drive shaft is that normal? Fluid is full as well.

Response From HT

If the fluid is full and you are sure about that, it's time to head to the trans shop. If I were to guess, I would suspect that you broke the front pump during installation because you may not have had the converter fully seated when you tightened the housing bolts.

Response From Kenna4101

We losened up the tranny and now the front drive will turn in N but not in Park. Is it that we are not getting it lined up just right or what?

Response From HT

I'm betting it's too late now. the front pump is likely broken.

Response From Kenna4101

Ok thank you we are going to try one more time and see if it engages. If not I guess we will have to get it rebuilt

Response From Discretesignals

Did you flush the transmission cooler out before you installed your transmission?

Response From Kenna4101

No we didn't. We have also found out that the front pump is broke.

Response From MarineGrunt

Be sure to get a couple cans of Kooler Kleen for the cooler lines. Most auto parts stores carry it but you sometimes have to ask for it. I know mine had it behind the counter. Transmissions hate sludge so you want to clean everything out real good.

I had a pump break on a transmission in my wife's minivan and one of the pump fins worked its way down into the valve body. If you do the pump yourself make sure you check everything out. You don't want some small piece of metal roaching your whole transmission.

Response From Discretesignals

Just curious but what happened to the old transmission?

Response From Kenna4101

We lost R and D
but it would still go in 1st and 2nd

2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor squeaks over 35 mph

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From ctreas on 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor squeaks over 35 mph

2004

Mitsubishi
Endeavor XLS
3.8L V6 All wheel drive
38,000 miles


Whenever the car goes above 35 mph a consistent squeak develops. It sounds similar to a loose belt. The noise began recently, it was not long after getting new tires and breaks. I am not entirely sure if this is related or not because noise stays consistent even when brakes are applied unless of course the car is under 35 mph at which point the squeak stops all together. Took into a mechanic, once the car was on the lift no noise. Mechanic said it is probably a pulley of sorts but it is hard to pin down until he hears it, his recommendation wait until something goes wrong. The burning question he could not answer is what is different at 30 mph than at 36 mph.



Any ideas,

Response From PineCreek4x4 Top Rated Answer

Sorry for reviving an old post but i have the same exact vehicle year and everything with the only exception of mine has 120k miles and im having the same exact problem as you. Same speed limit and everything. I was wondering if you ever found the solution. I read on a honda board of a post with the same problem with a honda element and his problem was a drive shaft bearing. Any luck with yourself?

Response From Hammer Time

Don't post to old threads.

FORUM RULES

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

ctreas; Noises are one of the worst things to try and find, especially if they come and go...It's possible that having the vehicle on the hoist, it is removing the weight of the vehicle off of the wheels. From your very good description, I'm pulling what hair I have left. But, I don't know that I'd wait until 'something' goes wrong. Has the mechanic taken it for a drive? You might want to go along, so you can point out the noise and say "that's what I'm hearing".

Response From ctreas

Thank you for the response, the noise may cause more damage to my mental state as opposed to the car's long-term condition.

I did have a mechanic do a ride along, he heard the noise and agreed that it sounded like a loose belt. What really confuses me about the diagnosis is how the noise goes away at the reduced speed and is non existent when the car is idling. If it were a belt or pulley should the noise be evident at all times when the engine or belt driven part (A/C) is operating? Regardless of speed.

Thank you for the input,

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

A belt/pulley noise would/could vary with engine speed, but vehicle speed wouldn't matter. If it is strictly vehicle speed, then it's in the drivetrain, not engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

????: Change of attack - since this happened directly with new tires - check any trim rings - hubs, wheel locks or just remove all but the lug nuts. Make sure tire pressure is at max correct pressure listed for the vehicle AND that the tire is rated for that.

If noise still there with cosmetic parts off - try rotating the wheels and see if noise changes or perhaps goes away.

I also worry about how tight the lug nuts are. They should be checked by hand - not just an air gun,

T

Response From ctreas

Tom I did what you said and then I had a trained mechanic do what you recommended and nothing abnormal was found and the squeak continues. I appreciate your suggestions and I am open to any other ideas. If no one has any other ideas the next step is the dealer... and one can only imagine how much that will cost.

2001 MITSU MONTERO SPORT possible drive shaft problem?

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From jjusth on 2001 MITSU MONTERO SPORT possible drive shaft problem?

Hi all, this is my first post so forgive me if I forget something, and thank you so much in advance for the help!

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport LS, 3.5L V6, 175,000 miles.

The car is not in the best shape, I'm saving up money to buy a new one and can't afford to take it to a mechanic and DEFINITELY can't afford to fix anything and sink any more money into it, but there are two sounds that concern me, and want to make sure it's nothing major that could harm me (or others) if I continue driving it without fixing it.

One noise pretty much sounds like squeaky brake pads - except I checked the brake pads and they are fine, and the noise is pretty much constant in acceleration, not the brakes. Pretty sure reverse as well, but it's constant in acceleration at any speed, even when on the highway. Just a constant, light, squeal/squeak like "eee eee eee"

The other noise only just started recently, it happens once in a while when I am accelerating, usually right when I'm shifting from park to drive and it's not a constant noise, more intermittent, and doesn't continue at any high speeds, just in the beginning of acceleration. This noise is hard to describe - I was going to describe it as like a deep, horn, brass-instrument kind of sound, but I found online the description of a SEAL BARK, and that sounds pretty damn accurate! someone else said like a water buffalo in heat.... you get the picture.

From what I've read on the internet (feel free to correct me) this seems to be an issue with the drive shaft or u-joint? Can I go a while with out fixing this? I want to just drive this car into the ground until I can get another one, hopefully just a few more weeks. I just want to make sure this isn't very dangerous?

Thank you in advance!!

Response From Sidom

Being this is the internet, we would have no way of answering your question on how long you could drive this....

Call around to get some prices on getting it checked out if you can't track it down yourself...... If you can get into the $20 range, that really wouldn't be too much to pay for some piece of mind.

You may even find some willing to look at if for free but since you have no intention of doing any repairs it really wouldn't be fair to them to waste their time with your problem when you know they have no shot at making any repairs.......

But that would depend on you & which direction your moral compass points...

Response From jjusth

Thanks, I agree $20 isn't much (and yes, I would feel bad having a mechanic look at it for free when I have no intention of getting it fixed), but the problem is I don't have a trustworthy mechanic... if they turn around and say, "this MUST be fixed, ASAP!" I can't do much. Of course get a second opinion, but...

I know you can't tell me how long I can drive this, maybe I should have been more clear... was just wondering if someone could tell me if this sounds like a drive train problem, or what kind of problem this sounds like, and a little bit of what that means?! I don't really know what a drive train is! Just want to get a tiny gauge of how serious a problem this is... thanks again

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

If I had to take a blind guess ( & I do...) I sounds like a dry u joint, a 2nd would be a brk sensor but that noise would go away when you applied the brks....

The obvious answer that we all know is it's best to fix it right away so more damage isn't done. That being said, while this is no way 100%, bearings & other problems like this usually start out small then get progessively worse. Common sense on this would be if it got real loud or a vibration start, that would be your sign it's time to park it. The unknown is that this could come on very fast or just a slow progression. I think the main thing for everyone's safety would just to be "aware" while driving and until the problem is fixed or at the minimum found out, I would keep the speed down....

I know the shops like you mentions but you have to realize they can't force you to make a repair. If they try strong arm tactics, don't fall for it & they just lost a future customer for when you are planning on fixing a vehicle.....

Response From mdaniel

Safety should be the main concern here.
I recommend you get it checked out by a certified mechanic or park it.