802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Drive Shaft

Choose a Year for your Mazda 's Drive Shaft

  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2002
  • 1999
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1992
  • 1990

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Cardone
    Cardone
  • Dorman
    Dorman

Best Selling Genuine Mazda Drive Shafts

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Cardone
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mazda Replacement Drive Shaft Parts

We stock Drive Shaft parts for most Mazda models, including B2300, Miata, RX7, Tribute.

Dorman
1991 Mazda RX-7 Drive Shaft - Rear Dorman

P311-4F61840    936-253  New

MZM09225100 , MZM06025100C

Qty:
$252.53
Dorman Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Product Attributes:
    • Drive Shaft Diameter (In): 2.5 In.
    • Drive Shaft Length (In): 38 In.
    • Drive Shaft Wall Thickness (In): 0.065 In.
    • Grade Type: Standard
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Aspiration Position
1991 - Mazda RX-7 Manual Naturally Aspirated Rear
Dorman
1993 Mazda Miata Drive Shaft - Rear Dorman

P311-4DD9E84    936-250  New

M09125100A

Qty:
$340.30
Dorman Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Product Attributes:
    • Drive Shaft Diameter (In): 2.5 In.
    • Drive Shaft Length (In): 41.25 In.
    • Drive Shaft Wall Thickness (In): 0.065 In.
    • Grade Type: Standard
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position
1993 - Mazda Miata Manual Rear
Dorman
2005 Mazda Miata Drive Shaft - Rear Dorman

P311-34F7C3C    936-252  New

MF0625100 , MF0625100A

Qty:
$261.31
Dorman Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Product Attributes:
    • Drive Shaft Diameter (In): 2.5 In.
    • Drive Shaft Length (In): 39.25 In.
    • Drive Shaft Wall Thickness (In): 0.065 In.
    • Grade Type: Standard
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position
2005 - Mazda Miata Automatic Rear
Dorman
2003 Mazda Miata Drive Shaft - Rear Dorman

P311-0B6DA61    936-251  New

MF0425100 , MF0425100A

Qty:
$296.42
Dorman Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Product Attributes:
    • Drive Shaft Diameter (In): 2.5 In.
    • Drive Shaft Length (In): 39.375 In.
    • Drive Shaft Wall Thickness (In): 0.065 In.
    • Grade Type: Standard
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position
2003 - Mazda Miata Manual Rear
Dorman
2009 Mazda B4000 Drive Shaft - Front Dorman

P311-0928AEA    936-813  New

N92936 , 65-9293 , N94510 , XL2Z4A376AA , 65-9451 , ZZR025100 , 93-1191 , 93-1111

Qty:
$315.43
Dorman Drive Shaft  Front
  • Product Attributes:
    • Drive Shaft Diameter (In): 1.75 In.
    • Drive Shaft Length (In): 30.75 In.
    • Drive Shaft Wall Thickness (In): 0.095 In.
    • Grade Type: Standard
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2009 - Mazda B4000 4WD Front
Dorman
2005 Mazda Miata Drive Shaft Dorman

P311-25211C7    W0133-1980691  New

Qty:
$502.35
Dorman Drive Shaft
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2005 - Mazda Miata LS Manual
Cardone
2001 Mazda Tribute Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-2A2579E    65-9463  Remanufactured

YL844602BH , ZZC025100A , SA5525100M , YL844602BM

Qty:
$29.70 $425.54
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken by measuring the Tube length only. Measure from the centerline of the weld on one end to the centerline of the weld on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 565.15
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken By Measuring The Tube Length Only. Measure From The Centerline Of The Weld On One End To The Centerline Of The Weld On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.51
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 63.63
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2001 - Mazda Tribute 4WD Rear
Cardone
1998 Mazda B4000 Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-17BF963    65-9293  Remanufactured

XL2Z4A376AA , F77A4376BB

Qty:
$29.70 $350.68
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken by measuring the Tube length only. Measure from the centerline of the weld on one end to the centerline of the weld on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 746
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken By Measuring The Tube Length Only. Measure From The Centerline Of The Weld On One End To The Centerline Of The Weld On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 1.75
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 44.45
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Mazda B4000 Front
Cardone
1991 Mazda Navajo Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-541E106    65-9661  Remanufactured

Qty:
$27.00 $350.68
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 747.71
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.005
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 50.93
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mazda Navajo Front
Cardone
1994 Mazda B4000 Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-53E8EDC    65-9672  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $274.62
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 781.05
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.01
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 50.93
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Mazda B4000 Front
Cardone
1994 Mazda B4000 Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-5CFCD27    65-9662  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $350.68
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 1030.29
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.51
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 63.63
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1994 - Mazda B4000 4WD Rear
Cardone
1995 Mazda B4000 Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-39997EA    65-9675  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $350.68
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 1028.70
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.51
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 63.63
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1995 - Mazda B4000 4WD Rear
Dorman
2005 Mazda Miata Drive Shaft - Rear Dorman

P311-0B6DA61    936-251  New

MF0425100 , MF0425100A

Qty:
$296.42
Dorman Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Excludes Turbo
  • Product Attributes:
    • Drive Shaft Diameter (In): 2.5 In.
    • Drive Shaft Length (In): 39.375 In.
    • Drive Shaft Wall Thickness (In): 0.065 In.
    • Grade Type: Standard
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Aspiration Position
2005 - Mazda Miata Manual Naturally Aspirated Rear

Latest Mazda Repair and Drive Shaft Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

97 Mazda B4000 4wd Issue

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From dmelvin on 97 Mazda B4000 4wd Issue

Greetings,
So this winter I discovered to my dismay that my 4wd would only randomly work on my Mazda truck. Off and on I would turn the switch to the 4wd position and it would the vast majority of the time have the vehicle remain in 2wd. Any input on this issue would be vastly appreciated; my initial thoughts go towards a leak in the vacuum line.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I believe that your truck doesn't use vacuum to engage the front end. The Ford Ranger and Mazda of that year had the automatic locking hub system that would engage the front axles to the hubs when the transfer case applied torque to the front drive shaft. Often times on those the locking hub on one side would grind or not engage causing no four wheel drive.

Does your transfer case lock the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft when the four wheel drive doesn't work?

If the transfer case motor runs and the transfer case locks the front and rear drive shafts together, but you still don't have 4wd, you need to inspect the hubs.

If the drive shaft doesn't lock, you either have a mechanical problem in the transfer case or an electrical problem with the transfer case shift system. The GEM controls the functions of the 4wd and does store codes if there is a problem in the system. You may need to have the GEM scanned if you find that you have an electrical issue.

Response From dmelvin

Okay Ill try to check tomorrow and get back to you on your questions, thanks for the initial input

94 protege knocking sound

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Tyjal on 94 protege knocking sound

94 mazda protege, 1.8, 140,000 miles I previously posted that my car was making a crunching sound but it sounds more like a knocking sound. I hear it when driving at a low speed, when I press on the gas and when I turn left more than right. I just had the two motor mounts changed then this noise started.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Noise - crunching, crackles, clunks, repeated knocks etc., with a load like accelerating while turning are frequently CV joint(s) in the drive shafts.

Wheel bearings and brakes could also cause noises and be inspected also,

T

Constant sound in the front after mounting the kerb

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From rolandseq on Constant sound in the front after mounting the kerb

Good morning - after 17 years of driving experience managed to hit my car mazda 3 sedan 2005 model straight on at a kerb at a speed of 50 km/ hr on a wet wet day,busted front two rims and tyres. So got those changed- car was making a whooop whooop whooop sound ,so they changed front two wheel bearings and the drive shaft - SHE S still makng that whoop whoop whoop sound,seems more apparent at lower speeds and reduces at highers speeds-after spending $1700 and managing without a car for 2 weeks ,a bit pissed off and untrusting of mechanics😞, HELP please

Response From Hammer Time

a bit pissed off and untrusting of mechanics😞,

Ad yet you are asking some of those mechanics for help

Response From rolandseq

Apologise - did 'nt mean to offend, just feel like the two mechanics were nt being communicative about the repair work, and i have very little money left and 3 mouths to feed

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hey! That's a full blown car accident and no telling instantly how extensive the damage was and wasn't seen right away. Gotta give them another chance to check it out. I doubt anyone sent it along knowing it had more to do without contacting you,


T

Brake caliper won't retract on 98 Protege

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From mystic2 on Brake caliper won't retract on 98 Protege

Hey,
I'm in the process of changing out my CV axel and pressed on the brake pedal to shift into neutral so I could rotate the drive shaft before prying on the inner joint hoping to get past the clip ring. No luck so far but I noticed that my brake shoes on my front left caliper have moved closer together so that I can't get the caliper back on over the rotor. I started the car and pressed the brake pedal thinking that maybe that would cause the caliper clamp to retract but it didn't and now the brake pads are even closer together. Do I have to bleed some brake fluid in order to release the pressure? Is there an easy way to get the clamp to retract?

Response From Hammer Time

If you keep stepping on that brake with the caliper removed you will be buying a new caliper. NEVER step on the brakes when the brakes are apart or a drum is removed.

If it hasn't started leaking fluid yet, you can probably press it back in with a C clamp. Make sure it goes in straight.

Response From mystic2

Thanks for the info.
I'll pick up a C clamp tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
And just to be sure, I should tighten the C clamp directly on the piston or on the brake pad?

Response From Hammer Time

You could do it either way but the C clamp may mark up your brake pads if you plan to re-use them. Just make sure it is pushing straight and you don't cock the piston to one side an jam it. It's OK for the C clamp to go inside the piston if it fits and it's a metal piston. If it happens to have plastic pistons, be a little more careful and put something in between to push against.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Any quick/easy way for me to release the pressure? Would any pressure be relieved if I loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir?"


Just remove some fluid at master cylinder and pushing piston back will have room without spilling. There's no pressure to fight unless there's another issue at the same time.
Listen to what HT said about piston being cocked. If you force it cocked it's all over leaking or not it couldn't be trusted. A "C" clamp pushing properly should retract piston with little effort as said. If it's a fight - stop as something is wrong. Yes also that you could use the pad to push on just careful and at some risk of harmlessly marking it a tad or at worst crack it then do them all if so.


If you removed fluid do so with like a turkey baster or something totally clean and do NOT use that for anything but again or throw it out not to be mixed up with food anything after brake fluid. Chances are it will just refill back to where it was. Loosen cover/cap but leave it in place as it could splash/squirt out and brake fluid can wreck paints.


If it goes well make sure it's full enough when back together and just pumping puts pads in place and then re-check fluid level,


T

Response From Hammer Time

You shouldn't have to remove any fluid. The piston was retracted when you started so it shouldn't overflow. It wouldn't matter if it did.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Right - OP it shouldn't overflow if you did nothing but retract the piston UNLESS brakes are say 1/2 worn and fluid was topped off and you fully retracted piston. This isn't the real issue as it can or might leak harmlessly almost always out of master cylinder. The scare is that you applied the brakes when the caliper was NOT in place (right?) and if that went all wrong piston could be crooked.


I don't trust seals twice to just put it back in with unknown dirt or stress on seals, that's all,


T

Response From mystic2 Top Rated Answer

The C clamp trick worked. Thank God.
Only problem - and I'm not sure it really is a problem - but the M-shaped caliper spring was very rusted and broke when I was taking off the pads. It's such a weak spring that I'm not even sure that I need it. What do you guys think? And if I do need it, do I have to go to the Mazda dealer to get one?

Response From Hammer Time

Those springs are important. They keep the pads from constantly rubbing on the rotors when not applied.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If that rusted it's time to do up the front brakes, both sides the same to each. There are better parts for rust and think you mean the clip for outer pad but doesn't matter it really can't stay that way and if like I think it's part of the pad not a separate kit of hardware but even so it's time and if a keeper go for it,


T

Response From mystic2

It's all fixed and back together.
O'reilys sells the M-clips I needed for the caliper.

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, those hardware kits are readily available.

Closing this now as solved.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm - Would rather see you use a nice hard piece of wood that fits square/flush to the piston OR if a good "C" clamp that swivels at contact right on dead center of piston and shouldn't take tons of force or it's not right. Any fluid showing that caliper is toast as HT said,


T

Response From mystic2

Got my fingers crossed that it doesn't start leaking between now and tomorrow. Any quick/easy way for me to release the pressure? Would any pressure be relieved if I loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir?

Steering wheel problem 07 Mazda 3 iSport

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From shadow69playa on Steering wheel problem 07 Mazda 3 iSport

Hi im new here and have no where else to turn as i bought a new (used car) and the auto dealer claims there is nothing wrong with my car, and i need help :(

MY CAR:
2007 Mazda 3i Sport
96k miles
4door
Stock everything on it


What my car is doing: (its 2 problems possibly related)

1st when im in park and reverse to get out of parking spot, i stop put my car in drive. When i start to move from that stop i hear a thud and feel it in my feet. This also happens when stopping hard, (like at a stoplight) and then start driving again. 1 simple thud felt under my feet. It also does this when stopping on a up hill stop, then beginning to drive uphill again i hear and feel thud beneath my feet.

2nd when my car hits bumps , of any size my steering wheel shakes from 12 to 11 and also from 12 to 1 . I tried to test it and hit a bump with just my left front tire, and got the shake, it also happens when hitting a bump with just my right tire. (at any speed)
-Id like to note when going highway speed and hitting bumps with either tire my steering wheel shakes then a slight vibration is felt in front end for about 1-2 seconds afterward.

Id like to note i did get an alignment and everything is straight and fine in that aspect, and when i do hit bumps i do NOT lose control it just shakes my steering wheel it doesn't SEEM to effect my direction im driving at all.

I thought initally it was my tie rods or ball joints or berings. so i took it in , the auto dealer has a shop built in and says nothing is wrong with my car. So i took it home and jacked it up on my stock tire jack (1 side at a time)

-I lifted my right front tire only (as if i was changing my tire) and did a 12-6 and 3-9 shake test..
12-6 shake NOTHING ABNORMAL
3-9 shake I HeAR THUD THUD THUD at every shake. ( IT WAS MY STEERING WHEEL TURNING! and hitting the steering wheel lock i guess)

Now please keep in mind the only tire off ground was the right front (the one i was testing) I looked under to watch as my brother did it and didnt see any abnormal movement other then my inner tire rod Very slightly going in (guess due to the steering wheel turning?)


I did the exact same thing to just the left front and the exact same outcome 12-6 nothing, 3-9 THUD THUD THUD from the steering wheel turning and hitting the lock. ( by lock i mean the stop or something that makes ur steering wheel unable to turn when the car key isnt in or the car is off.)


Other then that i did hear a little noise when attempting to spin the wheel (it only spun like 1/5 of a turn (each tire) while lifted) it didnt sound bad but it did make a sound)


Please help me :( thank you for all your time.

Response From nickwarner

Check your motor mounts for wear. A deteriorated mount will allow the powertrain to move too far and too quickly when you apply power, giving you a thud.

It may be worth having a different shop check this, as you can get a written diagnosis from them and it will give you some firm ground to stand on if you choose to take this up with the car dealer. This is a 6 year old car, and I'm sure it was bought as-is with no warranty. Was this doing this at the time you bought it? If so, why did you buy it? If it didn't do it until you had the car for a bit, you likely are on your own to pay for this. If it was right away after buying it and you can show them what is wrong, you may convince them to repair it at a free or reduced rate but with a used car that has no warranty they aren't required to do so. A little tact with them will help get it resolved.

Response From shadow69playa

I bought it 2 months ago, i have full warranty on all suspension, engine, and mechanical including motor mounts and labor until 150k miles. i made it a point to pay the extra money to get all warranty possible when buying the car. so Yes it IS covered. (with a 200 dollar deductible) and No i did not notice this happening until 30 days after buying it.

I will be taking this to another place, but im weighing my options on paying the deductible or trying to fix it myself, i am aware of basic suspension stuff, but this one baffles me.

The thing that bothers me most is i KNOW FOR SURE something is wrong, yet the dealer says they checked my suspension and nothing is wrong with it. And i have a feeling in my fine print of warranty (which ill check later) i must take it to them to fix. and if they say nothings wrong, im in a bind. So im thinking if i can figure out the exact problem, hold there hand and walk them through what is wrong with it they will see it. Because initially i simply told them the problem and said i think its tie rods or ball joints but im not a mechanic and not sure.

And yes tomorrow after work ill do a thorough check on my motor mounts. (which after changing my pontiac's i will NOT be changing these myself lol)

Response From nickwarner

They wouldn't be checking motor mounts if they are just checking the suspension, so maybe this is being overlooked by them. I'm guessing you did the lower motor mount on a Pontiac, like a Grand Prix maybe? You're right, its not the most fun in the world. Give the mounts a good check with someone torqueing the motor for you so you can see the total movement, and it will be easier to explain it to this dealer what is wrong and be on the road again happily.

Response From shadow69playa

Definitely i will , thank you!

well part 1 has a possible solution, now how bout the steering wheel thing? could that be related to the mounts as well? Or a totally different problem?

(id like to note although i can change mounts, tie rods etc. its only because i watched videos on youtube how to do the stuff, trial and error'ed it on my old vehicle and learned it hands on, other then that i have no knowledge of vehicles)

So if thats a stupid question, sorry ahead of time.


-The biggest thing i think im baffled by (regarding the steering wheel) is because i was under the assumption that both tires were connected with 1 bar with inner tie rod followed by outer then to tire, so if 1 tire turned the other had to turn as well. but if 1 is stationary (as explained in 1st post) how is moving just the single tire (right or left) able to turn the steering wheel at all?

Response From nickwarner

if the drivetrain is moving around, it will certainly make the whole car feel different. You may possibly even have a tire causing your vibration. An easy trick would be to rotate the tires and see if the symptoms either go away or go to the rear. If so, you have confirmed it.

This site is here to help people like you. After all, if you knew a lot about cars you probably wouldn't need to be here, right? You won't learn anything if you don't ask any questions. Since you're learning a lot from You Tube, you should go to ericthecarguy.com too. He has a lot of vids on youtube but he has all of them for free on his site. He tends to work mostly on Japanese cars too as he used to be an Acura tech. If you come across videos by Scotty Kilmer, don't watch them unless you want to wreck your car by taking his advice. Trust me on that. I cringe when he puts out a new vid. We've had people post on here that dumped a bottle of paint thinner in their gas tank and tried to clean a catalyst with laundry detergent because he said it was a good idea. Its not.

Response From shadow69playa

Id like to specify something before it gets lost in posts. For the 2nd part (about the steering wheel) , when i say shaking , i need to be more specific in my description:

When hitting bumps my steering wheel TURNS from left to right about 1 hour (if my steering wheel was a clock).

The shaking (vibration) is only felt at high speeds AFTER the turns *from hitting the bumps, have started.

Example:

1-40 mph - I hit bump/crack etc. in road. steering wheel turns rapidly from 11 to 1 and back (more or less depending on how deep/high the bump crack in road is)

40 and up mph - The steering wheel turns so rapidly from 11 to 1 and back and forth its a shaky vibration. .

It almost feels like my wheels like u stated above, and going left and right very very fast and then straightening themselves out again as i continue driving.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry if I missed it but have you checked the motor mounts yet as Nick first suggested? No telling what can bump what if it moves too much,

T

Response From shadow69playa

Ok update i checked the mounts ( they appear fine, and no big movement in motor when revving it up and etc.)

i did go under car again to look at something i overlooked the 1st time. The sound my wheel made when i rotated it and the source of the sound.

heres a video of me turning the tire while the car is jacked up and the noise it makes, (in the video i show only the right front tire. but both tires make this same sound and it originates from directly below the steering wheel. (where the steering wheel connects to this bar)

http://v6.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=10e58ht&s=6


and heres the source of the noise



Both tires make that sound and i put my hand on the (COLORED RED ROD) in picture, it seems to originate from directly under the steering wheel, wherever this bar connects too. ( i couldnt see it becuase then entire bottom of the car has a huge plastic over on it.


the left of the image is my tire, this is connected to the center of the tire, then goes across to the other tire. I also was able to push this in with my hand (when i gripped it i was able to push it into itself and it moved about a 1/2 inch) not sure what this rod even is? CV joint? and should i be able to move it by gripping it and pushing it towards the other tire) (if looking at image i pushed it to the right (towards the motor the direction of rod and it moved)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can't make that video play but not matter. Since this originates from putting it in gear motor mounts are most suspect to me. You need to know how to check them not just rev it up,

T

Response From shadow69playa

the car makes the thud from a stop to a go or from a stop on a uphill and a start going again, it even has done it without switching gears.

i was driving uphill, a steep hill while holding it in 2nd gear the whole time. i accelerated to speed up and it goes thud, and as soon as my car bogs down from high rpm it thuds again until i press on the gas again. almost like a broken bolt or something shifting direction based on the momentum of the car. btw this is just a random guess i have no idea whats going on.


Is there another way to check the mounts?


The video is showing the 2nd problem listed involving the steering wheel turning and the bumps causing vibration. i was just curious if that noise was some indicator of something . my next post will be a youtube link to the video maybe that will work.

Response From Hammer Time

There should be something very obvious under the car there. It could be suspension or it could be a loose caliper. Someone is going to have to watch from underneath. A drive on lift would be best.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Finally saw video. Just moving wheel forward and back with a clunk suggests a bad CV joint to me but like Hammer just said watching it from underside you could better nail exactly what is making that noise. CV joint usually "crackle" on turns more than this behaviour. Without the right look at parts as HT said you still are guessing,

T

Response From Hammer Time

That's definitely not a C/V joint but could be a control arm or anything else in the suspension> C/V joints don't get play like that and still drive.

Response From shadow69playa

the sound in the video, the (semi grinding sound or whatever it is) its originating from directly below the steering wheel. So whatever that thing is i circled in the picture, it goes all the way under my car and connects to the steering wheel, that part is the part thats making the noise. when it makes that noise it vibrates the whole rod, as well as the circled part. and could that effect the 1st problem? when i hit bumps the steering wheel turns and vibrates?

Response From shadow69playa

i looked it up to be able to say where the noise is originating, its the inner cv joint area or whatever it connects too.

Response From Hammer Time

An inner C'V joint will make a noise like that if the tripod has come apart. Look and see if the axle shaft moves at all without the outside housing mimicking it.

Response From shadow69playa Top Rated Answer

Ok ive came to the conclusion that it MAY be my cv joints. now i give up on this stupid car lol. im going to take it in. and i just read through my warranty of covered parts on my car, but i have a question.

I do not see CV joints listed in my warranty :( But it does list some things like this , can you please verify if any of these are cv joints



Front wheel drive:
-Final drive housing, all internal parts including :carrier case, gear sets, chain and sprockets, berings, bushings, axle shafts, universal joints, front hub berings, locking hub assembly, drive shaft support and all fastners for the componets listed above.

Theres also and Engine and transmission section. my main question is are universal joints cv joints? i looked at the image when i googled it and they look the same?

I also was fortunate enough to purchase the extended warrenty, which includes many many (4 pages) of things also covered in addition to this warranty. So if these are not cv joints, what other names do they go by, and what should i be looking for in the list of covered stuff.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Axle shafts - that's what I would call the items that include CV joints. Back a bit. From your video of the noise a CV joint that bad should have totally failed as in broken up if it could have play in the manner.

A CV (constant velocity) joint is in place of where a plain "U" joint could be but they are far for adaptive to turning sharper so widely used in most everything FWD.

Pointless to discuss but the very old way for RWD was to use two "U" joints centered by a spring ball also referred to as a constant velocity idea for those.

Your repair should be covered if your warranty company is playing fair,

T

Response From shadow69playa


this is the youtube link hopefully this works better then my 1st attempt