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Best Selling Genuine Chevrolet Drive Shafts

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Cardone
1995 Chevrolet Tahoe Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-2A63562    65-9361  Remanufactured

26057959

Qty:
$29.70 $350.68
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 806.45
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.25
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 57.15
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Manuf. Code Position
1995 - Chevrolet Tahoe 4L60-E Front
Cardone
2002 Chevrolet Tahoe Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-3D112D7    65-9363  Remanufactured

12479001 , 26055995

Qty:
$29.70 $321.93
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken by measuring the Tube length only. Measure from the centerline of the weld on one end to the centerline of the weld on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 692.15
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken By Measuring The Tube Length Only. Measure From The Centerline Of The Weld On One End To The Centerline Of The Weld On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.01
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 50.93
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Chevrolet Tahoe Front
Cardone
1999 Chevrolet Astro Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-3ABCA09    65-9146  Remanufactured

15763590 , 15113831

Qty:
$29.70 $350.68
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken by measuring the Tube length only. Measure from the centerline of the weld on one end to the centerline of the weld on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 660.40
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken By Measuring The Tube Length Only. Measure From The Centerline Of The Weld On One End To The Centerline Of The Weld On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.01
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 50.93
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1999 - Chevrolet Astro AWD Front
Cardone
1992 Chevrolet S10 Blazer Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-59C29A1    65-9359  Remanufactured

15114531

Qty:
$29.70 $494.50
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the face of the flange on one end to the face of the flange on the other end of a collapsed Prop Shaft. Applications that only have a flange on one end should be measured from that flange to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 749.30
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Face Of The Flange On One End To The Face Of The Flange On The Other End Of A Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.01
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 50.93
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1992 - Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4WD Front
Cardone
1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-1DAF26F    65-9529  Remanufactured

15109400 , 15163798

Qty:
$29.70 $304.97
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 1098.55
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.51
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 63.63
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1999 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD Rear
Cardone
1999 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-479F9EA    65-9527  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $304.97
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 1384.30
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 3.01
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 76.33
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1999 - Chevrolet Silverado 2500 4WD Rear
Cardone
2001 Chevrolet Tahoe Drive Shaft - Front Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-4B6DA90    65-9307  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $294.60
Cardone Drive Shaft  Front
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 790.58
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 1.26
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 31.88
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2001 - Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD Front
Cardone
2001 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-3D05B5A    65-9371  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $321.93
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 1733.55
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 3.01
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 76.33
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2001 - Chevrolet Silverado 3500 4WD Rear
Cardone
2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-364F733    65-9528  Remanufactured

15024402 , 15109388

Qty:
$29.70 $304.97
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 1549.40
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 3.00
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 76.20
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2001 - Chevrolet Silverado 2500 4WD Rear
Cardone
2002 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 Drive Shaft - Rear Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft

P311-1491872    65-9531  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $304.97
Cardone Drive Shaft  Rear
  • Remanufactured Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Measurement is taken from the centerline of the U-Joint located at the slip yoke end to the centerline of the furthest U-Joint on the opposite end of the collapsed Prop Shaft
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Universal Joints Are Installed For A Proper Fit And Function
      • Built To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m. Performance
      • Units Are 100% Dynamically Balanced At 3200 Rpms For Vibration-free Operation And Increased Joint Life
      • Unlike Other Manufacturers, Cardone Prop Shafts Are Dynamically Balanced, Which Is Superior To Static Balancing, As The Unit Is Balanced At The Typical Speed It Will Experience On The Vehicle
    • Length (mm): 1377.95
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (in): 2.76
    • Tubing Outer Diameter (mm): 69.98
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2002 - Chevrolet Suburban 2500 4WD Rear

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Drive Shaft Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Sierra Chirping and Clunking when stopping and taking off.

Showing 2 out of 46 Posts | Show 44 Hidden Posts
Question From MarineGrunt on 2003 Sierra Chirping and Clunking when stopping and taking off.

Hope everyone is doing well. I still haven't gotten around to the Venture's transmission but plan on keeping it and getting it rebuilt. It's gonna get put off a little bit longer.

I just bought a 2003 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton ext. cab 4x4. It only has 80k on it. I got one heck of a deal on it. I just wish it had the 5.3 instead of the 4.8. The only issues it has is the service air bag light stays on and a problem with something in the rear drive line. When taking off or stopping there is a loud "chirping" noise. It just chirps once or twice everytime I start or stop. It almost feels like there is some slack in the drive shaft back there. You can just feel it.The guy I bought the truck from said he took it to the dealership and they said the rear wheel bearings were offset. (never heard of that one) They said it was causing the gears in the diff to move or something like that. I just don't see it but I haven't messed with rear ends that much. (I'm sure I'll get some wise cracks over that one) I did come across some info about a nickel plated slip yoke. Has anyone ever done this repair? If so, did it fix the problem? Any other ideas before I start tearing into it?

Thanks in advance for the replies. I don't know what I'd do without this forum!

Response From Hammer Time

Look it over good for any metal on metal grounding out in things like u-joints, trans mount, loose yoke, suspension arms, exhaust movement, etc.

PS, does this have an aluminum driveshaft?

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does have an aluminum driveshaft. I'm gonna take it off to my buddy's farm this weekend and put it on the hoist.

I googled the symptoms and there seem to be many others with the exact same thing. For most it ended up being too much slack in the slip yoke. There were some who pulled the driveshaft, put one of.those rubber bouncy balls in the rear slot of the transfer case and then reinstalled the shaft. It fixed their problem! I'd be too afraid of that rubber ball breaking up and ending up with chunks of rubber in the t case. Have you ever heard of anyone doing this? I'm going to fix it right but just curious. The things people.come up with.

Response From Hammer Time

That driveshaft consists of 2 pieces. It has an inner shaft that I have seen become unattached from the outer and make a chirping noise every time it is put in gear.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Watching this and now with HT's note I think this driveshaft is the inner/outer casing with rubber like motor mount or harmonic balancer rubber to dampen shock and vibrations. Can't imagine quite how but they are sold as "reman" shafts - just know the exact length.

If all this then I'm guessing that rubber isolation has let loose and shaft inner and outer can turn but only so far and bet you could see that (careful of course) just shifting forward to back with helper with shaft indexed that it didn't just re-center well or at all such that it would be able to both clunk and give that chirp of rubber squeaking against one of the shaft parts it is still adhered to.

Quick check showed whole replacement was about $300 w new u-joints. The basic idea isn't new. Haven't noted one chirping away or continued clunking if so and all guessing is that would move in your hands, vehicle not even running, in park just twisting on shaft watching??

T

Response From Hammer Time

I've never cut one open to see what is actually inside but I have changed a couple for a chirping noise that we were able to track down to the shaft as the source of the noise.

Response From MarineGrunt

It doesn't chirp when it's put into gear. It only chirps when you stop. It's only one chirp each stop and one chirp each takeoff. So, just one quick chirp. When I say "when you stop" I mean the last split second before the truck comes to a complete stop. It's not when you're slowing down but at about the same time the truck stops. It doesn't chirp at all while moving except right when you take off. It's like you feel the "slack" when you take off and it's followed by one "chirp". It's almost like it chirps when there is, what's the word I'm looking for, torque(?) on the rear components. If I come to a rolling stop and take off a split second before coming to a complete stop it you don't hear the chirp or feel a clunk. You only feel the "slack" when there's "torque". Hope that all makes sense. If it were the rubber inside the driveshaft would it do it more than what was explained above?

I did decide to take it in to the dealership yesterday to have the diagnose the problem. I talked to the mechanic and said it's just normal wear and could be a combination of everything in the rear end causing it. He said not to worry about it and keep driving it. With the "chirping" noise it's making it's hard not to worry about it. He said he dropped the driveshaft where it attaches to the diff and everything feels fine with the driveshaft.

I went ahead and picked up a diff kit that has the pinion and carrier bearings. I also picked up the rear u joint. I figure I'll start there and see what happens. Have to head out of state to see the sister in laws new baby so I'm not sure how soon I will get to it. I've never messed with pinion or carrier bearings. Is it something I should be able to do? The kit also came with shims. I've got a buddy who can give me a hand if you think I'll need some help.

Thanks!

Response From nickwarner

You'll need a pinion depth gauge, a hydraulic press, a dial indicator and a torque wrench that can read in inch pounds as torque is applied to it. Its not a simple swap like a wheel bearing, as the correct pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, carrier bearing preload and backlash (the depth of engagement between the ring and pinion gear teeth) must be correct to the .000 of an inch. If it was a carrier bearing or pinion bearing it would make a growling that would steadily increase with speed and load, and would eventually chew the teeth off your ring and pinion gears (go boom at the worst possible time). I'd leave the guts of the carrier alone. If you want, pop off the rear cover and visually inspect the ring gear for damaged teeth. Just have some black RTV to seal the cover back up with and fresh gear lube to refill the diff.

On the upside things could be much worse. You could be doing the intake on a Venture.

Response From Discretesignals

He already has. Most be getting old and the memory is slipping, Nick.

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/2002_Venture_Overheating_and_Leaking_Coolant_P111840

Response From nickwarner

I do remember, all 3 pages in fact. Figured it would make this seem better in comparison to all the fun he had on the van.

Response From MarineGrunt

Ha! That does make me feel a little better! I talked to my buddy who's a mechanic for Altorfer Cat and he said he has rebuilt a few diffs so will have him give me a hand. From the sounds of it it seems like something I probably shouldn't tackle on my own especially since I've never really messed with it before. If the gears are in fact worn should I just pick up a used rear end or get a new one? Or, is it best to replace all of he guts?

Response From MarineGrunt

I changed the u joints, poured a little autotrak fluid on the slip yoke, and that took care of the chirp and "slack". I read that sometimes the slip yoke will kinda stick. I guess lubing it will sometimes help the problem for about a month so I should know soon if it was the u joints or the slip yoke.
I then decided to change the diff fluid. After pulling the cover and inspecting one of the gears has some chips on the tip of each tooth. It's the small gear that is on top on the inside of the cylinder deal. (Sorry for the poor explanation, don't know much about diffs) Can the gear be purchased separately or do you have to buy the whole kit? How difficult is it to change? If I replace the gears should I go ahead with carrier and pinion bearings?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like you're talking about the spider gears. The kind of damage you are describing indicates some serious issues and it likely has extensive damage. Short cutting this would be a big mistake.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Hammer.....I definitely don't wanna shortcut. Could there be something besides the diff that caused this? What do you recommend? Do you think I should rebuild the diff or buy a used one? I have the kit for the carrier and pinion bearings already so would just have to buy the gears. I saw a kit online for around $250. I do have a buddy who has rebuilt diffs who will be able to help if need be.

This truck only has 80,000 miles and I got it for $4200 so I don't mind putting money into it. Used or rebuilt? What do you think? Any other recommendations? I will take it to a mechanic if that's what you think needs to be done.

Response From Hammer Time

Rebuilt is always better but it depends on what you can afford. I'll let DS take this. He can get more specific than me.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks to both of you....DS....yes, from looking at your picture I would say it does. The gear that has chips was in the area towards the top of the picture where that little squiggly line is but the gear on mine looks different. The teeth are point straight out. My diff looks a little different but i'm guessing the picture was to just show me the governor locking..um...thingy?

Thanks again....really appreciate the help.

Response From MarineGrunt

What do ya think DS? Should it be completely rebuilt or should I pick one up from the junk yard? Any idea what caused the chipped teeth? If I do rebuild is there anything else that should also be replaced at the same time such as wheel bearings, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, etc?

Thank you for your time!

Response From Hammer Time

All the bearings should be automatic in a rebuild.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Double J...Ya know I read about that nickel plated slip yoke before I took it to the dealership for them to diagnose it. After they looked at the truck they said it was normal where and tear and could be multiple things causing it. I then spoke with the mechanic myself. I mentioned about the aftermarket nickel plated slip yoke and he said "nope, I checked the slip yoke and it was fine". I saw him pull the rear section of the driveshaft so I know he checked it. When I replaces the u joints the other day I also lubed the slip yoke which I've heard that will temporarily take care of it. I almost wish I would've waited on the lube just to see if the u joints took care of it. I kinda think it was the lube. I think after I take care of the diff I'll go ahead and replace the slip yoke so I don't have to worry about it. I heard the lube on the slip yoke only lasts about a month so I guess I could wait and see. I have to get the diff taken care of before I do anything. I'll probably take care of it next weekend.

One more question, how do I know what gears to buy? Is the rear end labeled somewhere?

Thanks!

Response From Double J

Way back in the beginning ,Well after the Big Bang and prior to the nickel plated Yoke,
The 'fix' per the TSB at the time was to lube it.
Mostly all of 'em came back for repeat 'lube jobs'.....(well all the ones under warranty did or ones that had prior repairs under warranty.)
Needless to say there were a lot of angry GM owners ( I'll bet that statement has never been said before,LOL)
Replace the Yoke or it'll be back.


Funny ,when a vehicle is under the parameters of the warranty how people get very angry and demand a fix,yada,yada,yada
But when its out of warranty and they have to pay,they have no problem 'living with it'
That wasnt directed at you

Response From MarineGrunt

Only problem with the pinion gauge is that I have to learn how to use it first!

Definitely getting the nickel plated slip yoke. I wouldn't have any idea about warranty issues due to the fact I've never owned a vehicle with less than 36,000 miles! I wouldn't know what to do with myself if I bought a vehicle that didn't need some sort of work done! It's amazing how much money you can save if you find a vehicle that just needs a few basic things done to it. The few things on this truck ended up being a little more than basic but I can deal with that considering what I paid for it.

Thanks for bringing up that slip yoke Double J...I read about it but then swept that idea under the rug after a GM mechanic told me the slip yoke was fine and it didn't need the nickel plated one. I did wonder if maybe GM mechanics were told to blame the issue on normal wear and tear since there are so many complaints about the chirp and clunk. I'm not one of those big conspiracy theory guys but it did cross my mind.

Response From Double J




I did wonder if maybe GM mechanics were told to blame the issue on normal wear and tear since there are so many complaints about the chirp and clunk. I'm not one of those big conspiracy theory guys but it did cross my mind.




No,not at all.

Contrary to popular belief, Dealers and Dealership mechanics arent out to rip people off,hide warranty info,string it along until its out of warranty.etc,etc.
As a matter of fact ,its quite the opposite.
I worked at GM Dealers,where we took a lot of pride in our work. I've seen GM do their fair share of Goodwill waranty repairs,plenty to those who didn't even have it coming.And not just the small stuff,engines,transmissions,etc.I can aver strongly that they do not instruct their mechanics/techs to do anything other that whats right,period!
They try very hard to keep their customers in that buying circle.
Of course there is always a stray butthole or two but thats certainly not the norm.
Rarely,but it does happen,you'll get a tech that doesnt want to do a particular job so he'll either not say anything or just say,no problem found

I'll tell you what does seem to get dealers a bad rap is they way that service work is dispatched.
The way that i like and seems to work the best is with one centralized dispatcher who deles out the work to all the techs.
One who has the knowledge which tech is the most qualified for a certain job.He also has to know when a job turns into more that the first tech he gave it to can handle ,pull it and get another guy on it

The other way that work gets dispatched is thru each service writer/advisor/consultant or whatever they call them this week.
Each writer has his/her own techs to use and a lot of times due to availability,the wrong guy will definitely get a job that he normally would not have in a properly dispatched shop.

I've worked in Independent shops,owned my own and worked at dealerships.
Over 45 years,never heard of anyone being told cover anything up.

Now GM is also smart with their money and likes to spend theirs they same way we like to spend our own.
But the General does have a heart of gold.

Response From MarineGrunt

That's really comforting to hear that. I've only used the dealership, or any shop, a handful of times and have never had any issues with them. I just kind of figured if little ole me had heard about the nickel plated slip yoke that the tech would've known. I mentioned it to him when I was talking to him afterwards and he kind of looked ag me like he had never heard of it. Like I said tho, I've never had any issues with them and I don't consider my last appointment to be an issue. Heck, maybe the u joints took care of the problem. I guess I'll know once that lube wears off although I might just go ahead and replace it now just so it's done.

Could that slip yoke issue have causes the damage to the diff?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Could that slip yoke issue have causes the damage to the diff?"

Long thread - sorry if already mentioned. Is this slip yoke an ordinary splined shaft just to allow the free length of shaft to adjust some to the assorted loads AND gets stuck/sticky from lube breaking down? If those type things wherever get stuck tight it would put forces on things not intended with assorted potential problems.

If the original fix that was temporary didn't last by just lubing it then I would think the area is way too subject to washing out the lube. If the upgraded parts solve this I think it would be very important. Slipping splined shafts have been in use for light years many had a grease fitting. I was always told now so long ago to NOT overdo greasing the greasable by grease gun types. I've also used insanely expensive Marine (as in boating) grade greases that just don't wash out so easily.

Simply have not had surprise problems even if there was a faulty design perhaps because of that. IDK? I really mean I don't know but haven't had a problem seeming so common with such things and if it was that simple it wouldn't have become apparently such an issue with these.

Sorry to poke my nose in but want to know what the exact permanant solution is and what prevents it and mostly prevent bigger problems.

Keep at it,

T

Response From MarineGrunt

Tom, I changed both u joints and lubed the slip yoke. That seemed to take care of it. After some replies it sounds like it was the lube that took care of it. I am going to replace the slip yoke with the nickel plate one so I will let you know the results. I have read that even with the nickel yoke that the problem sometimes returns. All we can do is try. The only place you can get it is through GM and costs close to $200! Ouch! I knew I was going to have to put some money into this truck so it doesn't hurt as much. It will be one nice truck once I'm finished.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I come from another planet sometimes - smile. With this crap and history of temp solutions and now a part with improved metal to solve it longer term I wonder if some kind of 'electrical galvanic corrosion' (sp??) something is attacking this spot? Does the metal of the differential show that it is grounded when tested with a test light as silly as running a long wire to test light to the metal of it? Test might be ok but might be intermittent ground. All thru vehicles ground straps are placed body to engine, even exhaust to body or frame and all thru as moving parts are frequently isolated by rubber parts, grease seals, mounts or grease itself.

For the waste of a few more bucks I'd consider putting a plain braided ground strap from differential to frame carefully placed out of any harm of heat or moving parts. Just a brain fart reason why this seems to be a common problem

Tom

Response From MarineGrunt

With all of the engineers GM has you would think they could figure it out. I'll tell you what, sometimes a simple brain fart idea and take care of the biggest problems! Once I get the new slip yoke and diff taken care I think I'll try your brain fart idea! You never know.

We are out of town right now and I'm chomping at the bit to get back home to get going on everything. Heck, I just want to get back home so I can figure out which rear end I have so I can start ordering parts!

DS may have already told me this, but I was browsing the net and came across an exploded view of a posi and I think it's the pinion gears that are chipped. Are these also called spider gears? Can all of these be replaced or do you have to buy the whole unit?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

The pinion gear is the main shaft attached to the yoke and driveshaft. The spider gears are the small side gears in the cluster.
This picture is not a limited slip but still shows you the gears.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the picture HT. Spider gears it is. The gear that I have that is chipped is the smaller one on the right in the picture. I'm assuming that the smaller one right across from it is also chipped.

Response From MarineGrunt

Is there a way to tell what diff I have? I mean I know it's the 3.73 posi but I'm seeing "30 spline 8.5/8.6 inch" or "28 spline 7.5 inch" etc. I also see where some say 10 bolt, 12 bolt, etc. Do I have to pull the cover to count splines, bolt pattern, etc or is there another way to figure that out?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

The RPO codes don't get into that much detail. Thew bolt count is just counting the bolts on the back cover. You would have to pull the yoke off to count the splines and you would have to removed the ring gear to measure it.

Maybe DS has a good way to ID it. I don't do a lot of them.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks HT...that definitely helps to get me going in the right direction. I wonder if calling the dealership could help. I just hate to call and ask for information if I'm not going to have them do the work.

Response From Discretesignals

If you buying parts from them, they won't mind.
Did your friend have a look at it yet?

I'm just still curious why you want to overhaul the entire rear end for a chipped spider. The ring and pinion are probably still good if your backlash is within specifications.

You'll have to remove the carrier to get the spiders and you can do your carrier bearing inspection then. If you find you have bearings or races with problems, then you remove the pinion and inspect its races and bearings. If the pinion bearings are bad, they usually make grinding noises while driving that can be pinpointed with a mechanic's stethoscope.

Most of the time ring and pinions go bad from running with no fluid or they just become slap worn out which isn't very common.

If you really want to replace the spider gears or bearings, I suggest you go dealer. I personally ran into a couple of rear end jobs where the aftermarket bearing tolerances where different and threw off the contact pattern with makes it a nightmare because you basically have to set up the rear end from scratch.

Response From Hammer Time

He's doing it because I advised him to. Once those chips and grit start floating around, none of the bearings can be trusted and bearing are all I was referring to when I advised to go through it.

Response From MarineGrunt

I figured it's something that should be done. They are some pretty big chips. I'm not hearing any noises tho and it feels fine while driving. Maybe I'll drop the cover and take some pictures to post so I can see what everyone thinks. I just kind of assumed they needed replaced.

My buddy is out of town for another 3 weeks so if it does need done I'll either have to wait or attempt it myself. I looked at the steps on alldata and it looks like something I could possibly do. I do realize that things always look easier on paper tho.

Hopefully I can get some pictures up tomorrow. I'd appreciate it if you guys would take a look. I trust all the advice I get here and it would make me feel better knowing you see what I see.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have a press with all the adapters? All those bearings are pressed.

Response From MarineGrunt

My buddy has a press. I think I'm just gonna wait until he gets home and take care of it all then. I'd assume just rebuild the whole diff and be done with it. I personally can't say for sure but with the way the spider gears look it's just a matter of time. Some of the teeth are missing a whole chunk out of the center so not so sure I should've called them chips. I'll see what kind of pictures I can take. If not tomorrow hopefully Friday.

Thanks Hammer

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not GM specific but huge as they are they absolutely have made MONSTER errors that some untold # of people signed off as all OK and things got produced by the zillions all wrong. It happens.

I just find that repeat issues with something so freaking basic could easily have something that stupid that all the CAD/CAM pin-heads missed and can't figure out unless a computer warning comes shooting out at them!

I'm in a rust/corrosion capitol of the world with road salts in heavy use and Atlantic Ocean as our boating playground, salt water of course. Tons of salt water boating and marine repair under my belt. Amazing the lengths a boat/yacht goes thru guarding itself from this I'll call it galvanic corrosion when just minor electrical charges get to metals need canceling that effect. Boats routinely use sacrificial zincs all over the place for submerged metals that if not maintained monster yacht or smaller boat's drive and steering gear is at wild risk without paying attention.


Sorry to beat this up but my primary car and all others like it has a factory ground strap at end hanger of tailpipe - all OE. One thing you can count on is that no car maker spends a dime on something you don't see if there wasn't a good reason!

Still out there and noted is simple trailer wiring with a specific ground wire to a metal trailer on a metal ball isn't enough for sustained ground for the simplest lighting for a brush trailer. I see them blinking away as the ball and recieving hitch loses momentary contact not involved with this corrosion lube issue but proves that things need to make the full loop from and back to battery. Silly things get overlooked. Some just break that should be there and still work for testing so don't catch notice so easily.

Stuff happens,

T

Response From Discretesignals

I imagine if the slip yoke was binding and caused pressure to be put onto the pinion flange, it could burn up the outer pinion bearing. I don't see it damaging spider gears though. Then you would think it would also cause transmission problems because it would take the end play out of the transmission internally components.

Ford truck have that problem too. They actually have a TSB that states to put PTFE grease on the splines.

Response From nickwarner

Teamwork is paying off it seems. I think J is onto your chirp fix, and you had another issue about to rear its head that you didn't know about. As HT said, all bearings must go. I do the wheel bearings as well because pieces that have chipped off are suspended in the oil and travel all over, just like in an engine. You've got a friend who does these a lot and will have the right tools. Rebuilding a rear end isn't hard if you know what you're doing, and with your appetite for learning I'm sure you'll be watching him do it and explain it to you. If you get a junkyard rear end you'd be rolling the dice. With a friend helping you its not costing you the labor of a regular shop, nor the parts markup and you'd be better off investing in the rebuild and never worrying about it again. When all is said and done fill it up with a quality synthetic gear lube and drive it. There is no break-in period on a rear end like a rebuilt engine would have.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Nick....this forum is great! Are all rear ends the same on 2003 Gmc Sierra 1500with ext. Cab 4x4 4.8? Just wondering how to figure out which gear kit I need.

Response From Discretesignals

I'm just surprised that this rear end is worn out enough already to warrant an overhaul. When carrier bearings or pinion bearings go bad, you usually hear grinding or droning noises. How many Dodge Ram Pickups with corporate rear ends have you seen whining going down the road...lol. When ring and pinion gears wear out you get excessive backlash. Excessive backlash causes the clunking noises when you put it into gear. You can check for excessive back lash with a dial indicator. You can also check the tooth contact pattern with persian blue.

When you start replacing ring and pinion sets, you have to set it up using special tools to determine pinion depth. Then there is the hassle of carrier bearing preload and you need special shims because you can't reuse the cast iron ones that come in the rear end from the factory. Setting up rear ends is an art and I don't know too many people that do it correctly.

If it were my rear end, I would definitely make checks to be sure it is worn out. Some differential pinion/side (spider) gear chipping at the edges is normal. if it was a tooth chipped off, heavy scoring, or cracked, it is definitely time for replacement. Has your friend that does rear end work looked it? If you really want to replace pinion and side gears in the differential, I am sure you can order them from the dealer. I personally haven't had a gov lock apart before, but you really should get the service information and review it.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks DS....when driving it feels fine. The clunking and chirping.went away after I replaces.the u joints and lubes the slip yoke. My buddy has not looked at it yet. I called him this morning and he's gonna be out of town for a month for some training. When we get home Tuesday maybe I'll see if I can get a good picture and post it. I'm not so sure you'd call them chips but rather chunks. Maybe 1/8"-3/16" or so. They are not tiny by any means. I do have a pinion depth gauge that I got when my grandpa passed away but never have used it. I think I will take your advice by reviewing the service manual and see if it's something I think I can at least attempt. Worst case scenario is that I'd have to wait for my buddy to get back in town or tow it to a shop. Actually, worst case is I screw something up and I ruin the new gears I put in. I'm always up for a challenge so we will see. Time to do some reviewing.

Hope everyone has a great weekend.

Response From Hammer Time

I do have a pinion depth gauge

Man, I don't even have one of them!!!!!

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

There is a TSB on the noise

Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004B - (Jan 5, 2005)

1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (Old Style)

2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

2000-2004 Chevrolet 1500 Series Avalanche, Suburban and Tahoe

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

1999-2002 GMC Sierra Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

1999-2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

2000-2004 GMC 1500 Series Yukon, Yukon XL

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

2003-2005 HUMMER H2

with Four Wheel Drive (4WD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD) and One-Piece Propeller Shaft ONLY

This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) and HUMMER H2 to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.

Cause

A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

Diagnostic Tips

There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:
• Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266)
• Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290)
• Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)
• Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin #02-04-17-001
• Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin #01-07-30-042
• Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin #03-07-30-028

Correction

Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.

Parts

12479383 Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated. Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126 - 4WD/AWD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

12479126 U Joint Kit: 4WD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL) (Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

Response From Discretesignals

Does this have governor locking differential?

Front axle shaft brakes at u-joint yoke

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From lowrider07 on Front axle shaft brakes at u-joint yoke

1983
Chevrolet
C-20 4x4
6.2 Diesel
192000 miles

Replaced inner and outer axle shafts installed new u-joint on left front drive shaft. Old axles shaft broke the ears where u-joint attaches . After about 50 miles inner axle broke the ears off. The only change made to the truck was to change out automatic locking hubs to mechanical .What could be causing axle yoke breakage ?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

I've never seen this happen without having a bad u-joint 'destroy' the yoke. Metal fatigue, maybe? You aren't driving in 4WD on bare pavement, right? The front differential isn't 'locking' up? I can't see how the hubs could cause this problem, unless maybe, one side is not unlocking, but still can't see how it'd break yokes. (and that's no yoke).

03 Silverado hard shifting

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From codylk92 on 03 Silverado hard shifting

2003
Chevrolet
Silverado 1500 extended cab z71 4wd
5.3l v8
150k

My truck is jerking from 1st to 2nd usually soft but sometimes jerks. Then 2nd to 3rd gets worse sometimes is easy but mostly a harder jerk and a small clunk. Finally from 3rd to 4th rarely soft usually a hard kick and loud clunk and all this are coming from the rear end. Also it sometimes whines when you first put it in drive but almost always does it when in reverse or turning hard. Lastly when I slow down for a turn if I dont dead stop and start turning and accelerate through the turn it will jerk kick and clunk in the year and bounce around and the back of the truck likes to sway like its not aligned properly and throw the truck around. I was wondering if this is a transmission issue or is my rear end starting to go out. I tried to be as detailed as possible thank you for your time. There is a very small leak of teansmission fluid and the ban has a long dented in scratch as well and a hole in the flexplate dust cover that I coveres up with duct tape until my new cover arrives.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There's a list of things to check.
U-Joints, strut bushings for rear axle and leaf springs if it uses leaf springs. If leaf style they can make noise all by themselves, OE should have had plastic silencers that are gone now or bushings. More bushings for coil type springs and supports bars.
Sway bars not as likely but check all anyway.
Turning is both shift of weight and changes of load on these things and bearing too. Need to check all that is rubber isolated to dampen noises and smooth things out down to mounts for engine and other drivetrain items,


T

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

to expand on toms idea-
start with fluid level and condition check then
with a helper - have them start vehicle, position yourself so you can observe the drive shaft- SAFELY - with their foot firmly on brake have them shift to D observe the drive shaft - then with foot firmly on brake shift to R - you can repeat as necessary - the action of each joint should be smooth - a jerk form one to another would be noticable and a further inspection.

1993 - this should be a 4L60E transmission- check codes it is way to easy to overlook.

Response From codylk92

Well ive tried everything and checked everything and nothing showed any sign of being bad now I noticed a bird chirping noise and it sounds like something is spinning faster then normal when it goes from 1st to 2nd

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Tried to find what rear end suspension style was for this and shows this so far............

You said it at least feels like it's shifting like out of alignment! That and something happened to break the dust shield so what happened to cause this at all?


A drip/leak involved also so check and know fluids are full, find and fix that leak. The mechanical feel of this shifting, noise(s) suggests real failure of parts held properly in place.


Checking for something broken or worn enough to really move when stresses are on parts or entire assemblies will be hard to observe alone. The test DS suggested of what I call brake standing might show something move that is excessive.


Exactly how any of this really makes it feel like a hard shift may be two things going on not both the same problem?


At a minimum I'd support entire rear axle and push, pull and pry carefully for any motion out of ordinary or parts that show any unusual evidence. Sometimes U-Joints make chirps but are tight unless removed from vehicle and then it's obvious. That shouldn't feel like a "sway" IMO but it this sustained underside damage all bets off and everything needs checking as I think this is damage more that wear for some of the trouble?


T

Response From codylk92

Well at a second look with my uncle whos not a mechanic but worked on cars for years. My transmission mount and transfer case mount is going bad because it moves a lot. The bearing at the end of the transmission as it goes to the driveshaft is lose and the u joint at the spot is starting to go bad all my shocks need replaced and my back leaf springs need some work. And the seal at the tranny pan is bad but the levels are good and I got the truck with the broken flexplate cover I just noticed it when I went to inspect everything. Now he said thete could be to much fluid from previous owners over compensating for the small leak it sounds like my gears are floating. And it makes a horrible whine in reverse but he said all that could cause it once I fix that im hoping everything straightens out hut is there anything else I should keep in mind im chaing all the fluids when I do this to the tranny fluid transfer case fluid and rear differential fluid to but other then that anything I should keep eyes on.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Before you begin partial fixes I really suggest and professional check out and itemized list of what now I'll say is damaged or abused items or just some hard use possible?


Just look at the diagram up few posts of the leaf springs. Only the top spring is connected at both ends where bushings are, the back can swing a bit for load reason. That style also controls the left to right motion of the rear end also holding wheels in place such that additional struts are not required for most. Whatever you found wrong with the springs once was fixable (getting old here) and even re-bent or a leaf added and so on. Ask around depending on what is wrong.


Fluid leaks in trans/gearcases etc., if overfilled to compensate could make what's left bubble up, cavatate or who knows? Not the approach for a fix.


Rear bearing to driveshaft bearing? Not so common and some plain up down motion may be normal on what is probably a splined shaft that can slip? Different ways so don't know for sure. If a real bearing issue at the outlet extension of trans you could be in for some real work and bucks - the reason I seriously think a good general professional should be looking at this as said above.


When you mentioned it could or felt like it could sway it's now on the safety issue list so not my recommendation to drive this anymore. If rear axle broke loose from a spring you would lose control of the vehicle never mind if it can move that's unacceptable of course.


T

Response From codylk92

Ive been thinking I should take it to a professional most likely a chevy dealership due to the long possibilities of what could be wrong i felt it would be best if I did and just paid hoped it was something minor. Because as I said it just does so many different things and makes so many noises and feels like its dragging or somethings pulling me back. Now the shocks need replaced and I was gonna add to the leaf springs just to give some life back because the truck is sagging a little and more one one side then the other

Response From Tom Greenleaf

! Truck is sagging on one side!! There's more wrong then you can wait for. Reason for suggesting pro help is my guess is YOU can't quickly put this thing overhead, look, pry on things with plenty of light as fast as someone who does lots of stuff/work on vehicles should be able to and know what is a real problem or what isn't.


Shocks and such are really just on the maintenance list much like needing new tires but can cause some wild behavior in some if no dampening power or totally swinging in air broken off you'd know.


Ask when and if possible with a good check if you can observe and discuss it while doing it. That would be shop rules place by place. What you might want to do and what would be too much of a hassle or tools too difficult to rent or buy for a one time thing.


Knowing is better than not,


T


Short bucks to find out just where you stand with this

S10 Front Differential Oil Leak

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From JR66 on S10 Front Differential Oil Leak

Does anyone have the procedure to change the front differential pinion seal on a 2000 Chevrolet S10 V6 4X4 pickup? I put it in 4 whl drive for the 1st time in quite a while and the seal started leaking a lot after that. I think because the front driveshaft hadn't turned in a long time the seal hardened or some rust formed. Anyway now I get a puddle under the car overnight and I'm reluctant to drive it too far for fear of running the differential dry. It took quite a bit of oil when I filled it. If I take out the frt driveshaft what do I have to do to pull the pinion out and change the seal? Can I do it with the differential and axles in place?

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

Loren is correct . However, the job is much easier with a airgun & impact socket. Your dealing with a high torqued nut plus years of rust. The procedure is the same either with breaker bar or airgun. Undo drive shaft from yoke . Scratch or paint a ref line across nut and yoke . Undo nut,slide yoke off . Remove seal , a large screwdiver will do. Cleanup yoke where seal rides. CAREFULLY tap new seal in place. Put a little clean lube on yoke and install yoke and nut. Tighten nut till ref line aligns . Re-install shaft . Refill lube . Have your fav beverage or pay the shop. And they will have one for you.

Response From JR66

Many thanks to both you and Loren for your advice. I have air tools and am used to rust. My main concern was whether or not I had to remove the differential. That would make it a really big job. Now that I know I can replace the seal with differential in place I'll give it a go.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Can I do it with the differential and axles in place?
Yes.

'93 Chevy 1500 Tranny problems

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From PSand on '93 Chevy 1500 Tranny problems

Hi, I have a 1993 Chevrolet 1500 with a 5.0L motor and (I believe) a 4L60E transmission.

My problem is that when I am driving after about 10 to 15 minutes (in city) the transmission fails to shift from first to second, and into reverse from any gear. I recently replaced the U-joints and center support mount on the driveshaft. I have checked the fluid, by the book (Chilton manual) and it appears to be too full if anything. I did not drive it before checking though, so don't know if that makes a difference. There are no metal flakes that I can see on the dipstick, but there does appear to be a tiny bit of sludge on the very tip.
While driving, when accelerating from a stop (after perhaps 10 to 15 minutes) the truck would hesitate to shift into second. It would not respond to throttle immediately, (I took my foot off the gas twice before it would shift). When making a three point u-turn, I put the truck into reverse and it would not engage the reverse gear. However, after shutting down the truck and allowing it to sit for a few minutes only, it would operate normally but after a short time would start having the same issue.
In checking the fluid level according to the Chilton manual, it says to have engine running- parking brake on- then shift through each gear until down to first then back to park going through each gear as well. In doing this, what i noticed was that in shifting into Reverse from park, and all the way down to first, everything seemed/sounded normal. But on the return, shifting from 1st to 2nd, a kind of grating/grinding/rubbing noise could clearly be heard from under the truck, (possibly the drive shaft). Shifting from 2nd into Drive the noise ceased, and no noise was heard in Overdrive or neutral. However, going from Neutral to Reverse the same noise was heard as in 2nd and in park, no noise.

I have very little mechanical experience and none with transmissions, so I'm completely baffled by this problem.

Response From Discretesignals

If you have no reverse, than it isn't an electrical problem. You either have a problem with the valve body or the low/reverse clutch. You could also have a line pressure issue, so line pressure should be monitored when the problem is occurring. More than likely the transmission will need an overhaul.

Response From PSand

How do I monitor line pressure?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You monitor it with a transmission pressure gauge. There is a test port on the side of the transmission the gauge screws into so you can watch line pressure. You compare the pressure readings to a line pressure chart to see if they are within specs or not. Line pressure is only a part of the diagnostic process.

I can tell you if your having a no reverse problem, the valve body and apply components will have to be inspected. Your best bet is to swing into a shop that specializes in transmissions and have them diagnose the problem.

Response From PSand

okay, thanks for the help. I'll update this thread when it gets fixed so you know what the fix was. Thanks again!