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DEA Strut
2005 Kia Sorento Drive Shaft Center Support 6 Cyl 3.5L DEA Strut

P311-3C6940C    A6092  New

6077 , 6103 , AD08650500A , AD08950501

In Stock & Ready to Ship
DEA Strut Drive Shaft Center Support
  • Drive Shaft Center Support Bearing
  • 1.1811" Bearing I.D.
Brand: DEA Strut
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Kia Sorento V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3497
2004 Kia Sorento Drive Shaft Center Support Dorman

P311-283509A    W0133-1970410  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Dorman Drive Shaft Center Support
  • With Bearing
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Drive Type
2004 - Kia Sorento LX Automatic RWD

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Steering wheel problem 07 Mazda 3 iSport

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From shadow69playa on Steering wheel problem 07 Mazda 3 iSport

Hi im new here and have no where else to turn as i bought a new (used car) and the auto dealer claims there is nothing wrong with my car, and i need help :(

2007 Mazda 3i Sport
96k miles
Stock everything on it

What my car is doing: (its 2 problems possibly related)

1st when im in park and reverse to get out of parking spot, i stop put my car in drive. When i start to move from that stop i hear a thud and feel it in my feet. This also happens when stopping hard, (like at a stoplight) and then start driving again. 1 simple thud felt under my feet. It also does this when stopping on a up hill stop, then beginning to drive uphill again i hear and feel thud beneath my feet.

2nd when my car hits bumps , of any size my steering wheel shakes from 12 to 11 and also from 12 to 1 . I tried to test it and hit a bump with just my left front tire, and got the shake, it also happens when hitting a bump with just my right tire. (at any speed)
-Id like to note when going highway speed and hitting bumps with either tire my steering wheel shakes then a slight vibration is felt in front end for about 1-2 seconds afterward.

Id like to note i did get an alignment and everything is straight and fine in that aspect, and when i do hit bumps i do NOT lose control it just shakes my steering wheel it doesn't SEEM to effect my direction im driving at all.

I thought initally it was my tie rods or ball joints or berings. so i took it in , the auto dealer has a shop built in and says nothing is wrong with my car. So i took it home and jacked it up on my stock tire jack (1 side at a time)

-I lifted my right front tire only (as if i was changing my tire) and did a 12-6 and 3-9 shake test..
3-9 shake I HeAR THUD THUD THUD at every shake. ( IT WAS MY STEERING WHEEL TURNING! and hitting the steering wheel lock i guess)

Now please keep in mind the only tire off ground was the right front (the one i was testing) I looked under to watch as my brother did it and didnt see any abnormal movement other then my inner tire rod Very slightly going in (guess due to the steering wheel turning?)

I did the exact same thing to just the left front and the exact same outcome 12-6 nothing, 3-9 THUD THUD THUD from the steering wheel turning and hitting the lock. ( by lock i mean the stop or something that makes ur steering wheel unable to turn when the car key isnt in or the car is off.)

Other then that i did hear a little noise when attempting to spin the wheel (it only spun like 1/5 of a turn (each tire) while lifted) it didnt sound bad but it did make a sound)

Please help me :( thank you for all your time.

Response From nickwarner

Check your motor mounts for wear. A deteriorated mount will allow the powertrain to move too far and too quickly when you apply power, giving you a thud.

It may be worth having a different shop check this, as you can get a written diagnosis from them and it will give you some firm ground to stand on if you choose to take this up with the car dealer. This is a 6 year old car, and I'm sure it was bought as-is with no warranty. Was this doing this at the time you bought it? If so, why did you buy it? If it didn't do it until you had the car for a bit, you likely are on your own to pay for this. If it was right away after buying it and you can show them what is wrong, you may convince them to repair it at a free or reduced rate but with a used car that has no warranty they aren't required to do so. A little tact with them will help get it resolved.

Response From shadow69playa

I bought it 2 months ago, i have full warranty on all suspension, engine, and mechanical including motor mounts and labor until 150k miles. i made it a point to pay the extra money to get all warranty possible when buying the car. so Yes it IS covered. (with a 200 dollar deductible) and No i did not notice this happening until 30 days after buying it.

I will be taking this to another place, but im weighing my options on paying the deductible or trying to fix it myself, i am aware of basic suspension stuff, but this one baffles me.

The thing that bothers me most is i KNOW FOR SURE something is wrong, yet the dealer says they checked my suspension and nothing is wrong with it. And i have a feeling in my fine print of warranty (which ill check later) i must take it to them to fix. and if they say nothings wrong, im in a bind. So im thinking if i can figure out the exact problem, hold there hand and walk them through what is wrong with it they will see it. Because initially i simply told them the problem and said i think its tie rods or ball joints but im not a mechanic and not sure.

And yes tomorrow after work ill do a thorough check on my motor mounts. (which after changing my pontiac's i will NOT be changing these myself lol)

Response From nickwarner

They wouldn't be checking motor mounts if they are just checking the suspension, so maybe this is being overlooked by them. I'm guessing you did the lower motor mount on a Pontiac, like a Grand Prix maybe? You're right, its not the most fun in the world. Give the mounts a good check with someone torqueing the motor for you so you can see the total movement, and it will be easier to explain it to this dealer what is wrong and be on the road again happily.

Response From shadow69playa

Definitely i will , thank you!

well part 1 has a possible solution, now how bout the steering wheel thing? could that be related to the mounts as well? Or a totally different problem?

(id like to note although i can change mounts, tie rods etc. its only because i watched videos on youtube how to do the stuff, trial and error'ed it on my old vehicle and learned it hands on, other then that i have no knowledge of vehicles)

So if thats a stupid question, sorry ahead of time.

-The biggest thing i think im baffled by (regarding the steering wheel) is because i was under the assumption that both tires were connected with 1 bar with inner tie rod followed by outer then to tire, so if 1 tire turned the other had to turn as well. but if 1 is stationary (as explained in 1st post) how is moving just the single tire (right or left) able to turn the steering wheel at all?

Response From nickwarner

if the drivetrain is moving around, it will certainly make the whole car feel different. You may possibly even have a tire causing your vibration. An easy trick would be to rotate the tires and see if the symptoms either go away or go to the rear. If so, you have confirmed it.

This site is here to help people like you. After all, if you knew a lot about cars you probably wouldn't need to be here, right? You won't learn anything if you don't ask any questions. Since you're learning a lot from You Tube, you should go to too. He has a lot of vids on youtube but he has all of them for free on his site. He tends to work mostly on Japanese cars too as he used to be an Acura tech. If you come across videos by Scotty Kilmer, don't watch them unless you want to wreck your car by taking his advice. Trust me on that. I cringe when he puts out a new vid. We've had people post on here that dumped a bottle of paint thinner in their gas tank and tried to clean a catalyst with laundry detergent because he said it was a good idea. Its not.

Response From shadow69playa

Id like to specify something before it gets lost in posts. For the 2nd part (about the steering wheel) , when i say shaking , i need to be more specific in my description:

When hitting bumps my steering wheel TURNS from left to right about 1 hour (if my steering wheel was a clock).

The shaking (vibration) is only felt at high speeds AFTER the turns *from hitting the bumps, have started.


1-40 mph - I hit bump/crack etc. in road. steering wheel turns rapidly from 11 to 1 and back (more or less depending on how deep/high the bump crack in road is)

40 and up mph - The steering wheel turns so rapidly from 11 to 1 and back and forth its a shaky vibration. .

It almost feels like my wheels like u stated above, and going left and right very very fast and then straightening themselves out again as i continue driving.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry if I missed it but have you checked the motor mounts yet as Nick first suggested? No telling what can bump what if it moves too much,


Response From shadow69playa

Ok update i checked the mounts ( they appear fine, and no big movement in motor when revving it up and etc.)

i did go under car again to look at something i overlooked the 1st time. The sound my wheel made when i rotated it and the source of the sound.

heres a video of me turning the tire while the car is jacked up and the noise it makes, (in the video i show only the right front tire. but both tires make this same sound and it originates from directly below the steering wheel. (where the steering wheel connects to this bar)

and heres the source of the noise

Both tires make that sound and i put my hand on the (COLORED RED ROD) in picture, it seems to originate from directly under the steering wheel, wherever this bar connects too. ( i couldnt see it becuase then entire bottom of the car has a huge plastic over on it.

the left of the image is my tire, this is connected to the center of the tire, then goes across to the other tire. I also was able to push this in with my hand (when i gripped it i was able to push it into itself and it moved about a 1/2 inch) not sure what this rod even is? CV joint? and should i be able to move it by gripping it and pushing it towards the other tire) (if looking at image i pushed it to the right (towards the motor the direction of rod and it moved)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can't make that video play but not matter. Since this originates from putting it in gear motor mounts are most suspect to me. You need to know how to check them not just rev it up,


Response From shadow69playa

the car makes the thud from a stop to a go or from a stop on a uphill and a start going again, it even has done it without switching gears.

i was driving uphill, a steep hill while holding it in 2nd gear the whole time. i accelerated to speed up and it goes thud, and as soon as my car bogs down from high rpm it thuds again until i press on the gas again. almost like a broken bolt or something shifting direction based on the momentum of the car. btw this is just a random guess i have no idea whats going on.

Is there another way to check the mounts?

The video is showing the 2nd problem listed involving the steering wheel turning and the bumps causing vibration. i was just curious if that noise was some indicator of something . my next post will be a youtube link to the video maybe that will work.

Response From Hammer Time

There should be something very obvious under the car there. It could be suspension or it could be a loose caliper. Someone is going to have to watch from underneath. A drive on lift would be best.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Finally saw video. Just moving wheel forward and back with a clunk suggests a bad CV joint to me but like Hammer just said watching it from underside you could better nail exactly what is making that noise. CV joint usually "crackle" on turns more than this behaviour. Without the right look at parts as HT said you still are guessing,


Response From Hammer Time

That's definitely not a C/V joint but could be a control arm or anything else in the suspension> C/V joints don't get play like that and still drive.

Response From shadow69playa

the sound in the video, the (semi grinding sound or whatever it is) its originating from directly below the steering wheel. So whatever that thing is i circled in the picture, it goes all the way under my car and connects to the steering wheel, that part is the part thats making the noise. when it makes that noise it vibrates the whole rod, as well as the circled part. and could that effect the 1st problem? when i hit bumps the steering wheel turns and vibrates?

Response From shadow69playa

i looked it up to be able to say where the noise is originating, its the inner cv joint area or whatever it connects too.

Response From Hammer Time

An inner C'V joint will make a noise like that if the tripod has come apart. Look and see if the axle shaft moves at all without the outside housing mimicking it.

Response From shadow69playa Top Rated Answer

Ok ive came to the conclusion that it MAY be my cv joints. now i give up on this stupid car lol. im going to take it in. and i just read through my warranty of covered parts on my car, but i have a question.

I do not see CV joints listed in my warranty :( But it does list some things like this , can you please verify if any of these are cv joints

Front wheel drive:
-Final drive housing, all internal parts including :carrier case, gear sets, chain and sprockets, berings, bushings, axle shafts, universal joints, front hub berings, locking hub assembly, drive shaft support and all fastners for the componets listed above.

Theres also and Engine and transmission section. my main question is are universal joints cv joints? i looked at the image when i googled it and they look the same?

I also was fortunate enough to purchase the extended warrenty, which includes many many (4 pages) of things also covered in addition to this warranty. So if these are not cv joints, what other names do they go by, and what should i be looking for in the list of covered stuff.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Axle shafts - that's what I would call the items that include CV joints. Back a bit. From your video of the noise a CV joint that bad should have totally failed as in broken up if it could have play in the manner.

A CV (constant velocity) joint is in place of where a plain "U" joint could be but they are far for adaptive to turning sharper so widely used in most everything FWD.

Pointless to discuss but the very old way for RWD was to use two "U" joints centered by a spring ball also referred to as a constant velocity idea for those.

Your repair should be covered if your warranty company is playing fair,


Response From shadow69playa

this is the youtube link hopefully this works better then my 1st attempt