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LKQ
1980 Ford F-100 Door Hinge - Front Right Upper LKQ - Goodmark

P311-56DD294    GMK3146401801R  New

Qty:
$29.61
LKQ Door Hinge  Front Right Upper
  • PASSENGER SIDE UPPER DOOR HINGE; ALSO FITS LOWER ON 83-92 RANGER
  • Goodmark
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Right Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1980 - Ford F-100 Front Right Upper
LKQ
1965 Ford Mustang Door Hinge - Front Right Upper LKQ - Goodmark

P311-1D285D7    GMK3020401641R  New

Qty:
$23.20
LKQ Door Hinge  Front Right Upper
  • PASSENGER SIDE FRONT UPPER DOOR HINGE
  • Goodmark
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Right Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1965 - Ford Mustang Front Right Upper
LKQ
1968 Ford Mustang Door Hinge - Front Left Upper LKQ - Goodmark

P311-4B63EFC    GMK3021401671L  New

Qty:
$55.26
LKQ Door Hinge  Front Left Upper
  • DRIVER SIDE FRONT UPPER DOOR HINGE
  • Goodmark
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Left Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1968 - Ford Mustang Front Left Upper
LKQ
1972 Ford F-250 Door Hinge - Front Left Upper LKQ - Goodmark

P311-4DE8622    GMK3144401671L  New

Qty:
$81.71
LKQ Door Hinge  Front Left Upper
  • DOOR HINGE FRONT; LH; UPPER
  • Goodmark
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Left Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1972 - Ford F-250 Front Left Upper
LKQ
1984 Ford F-150 Door Hinge - Front Left LKQ - Goodmark

P311-24F6899    GMK3146401801L  New

Qty:
$29.61
LKQ Door Hinge  Front Left
  • Upper
  • DRIVER SIDE UPPER DOOR HINGE; ALSO FITS LOWER ON 83-92 RANGER
  • Goodmark
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1984 - Ford F-150 Front Left
LKQ
1987 Ford Ranger Door Hinge - Front Right LKQ - Goodmark

P311-56DD294    GMK3146401801R  New

Qty:
$29.61
LKQ Door Hinge  Front Right
  • Fits Upper And Lower
  • PASSENGER SIDE UPPER DOOR HINGE; ALSO FITS LOWER ON 83-92 RANGER
  • Goodmark
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1987 - Ford Ranger RWD Front Right
LKQ
1988 Ford Ranger Door Hinge - Front Left LKQ - Goodmark

P311-24F6899    GMK3146401801L  New

Qty:
$29.61
LKQ Door Hinge  Front Left
  • Fits Upper And Lower
  • DRIVER SIDE UPPER DOOR HINGE; ALSO FITS LOWER ON 83-92 RANGER
  • Goodmark
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1988 - Ford Ranger RWD Front Left
Dorman
2012 Ford E-350 Super Duty Door Hinge - Front Left Lower Dorman

P311-2AC584C    925-060  New

6C2Z1522810A

Qty:
$47.39
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Lower
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 120 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 115 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 95 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.5
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.5
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8.6 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2012 - Ford E-350 Super Duty Front Left Lower
Dorman
2011 Ford E-450 Super Duty Door Hinge - Front Right Lower Dorman

P311-2AC584C    925-060  New

6C2Z1522810A

Qty:
$47.39
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right Lower
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 120 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 115 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 95 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.5
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.5
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8.6 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2011 - Ford E-450 Super Duty Front Right Lower
Dorman
2012 Ford E-450 Super Duty Door Hinge - Front Left Upper Dorman

P311-3ACE147    925-061  New

6C2Z1522800A

Qty:
$33.08
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Upper
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 120 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 120 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 95 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.5
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.7
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 7.9 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2012 - Ford E-450 Super Duty Front Left Upper
Dorman
2013 Ford E-350 Super Duty Door Hinge - Front Right Upper Dorman

P311-3ACE147    925-061  New

6C2Z1522800A

Qty:
$33.08
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right Upper
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 120 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 120 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 95 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.5
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.7
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 7.9 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2013 - Ford E-350 Super Duty Front Right Upper
Dorman
1981 Ford F-150 Door Hinge - Front Left Upper Dorman

P311-2E5CD64    925-066  New

E8TZ1522810A

Qty:
$97.55
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Upper
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 156 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 145 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 177 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.5
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 3
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.7
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8.6 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1981 - Ford F-150 Front Left Upper
Dorman
1982 Ford Fairmont Door Hinge - Front Right Lower Dorman

P311-2E5CD64    925-066  New

E8TZ1522810A

Qty:
$97.55
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right Lower
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 156 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 145 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 177 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.5
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 3
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 9.7
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8.6 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1982 - Ford Fairmont Front Right Lower
Dorman
1983 Ford Bronco Door Hinge - Front Left Lower Dorman

P311-5ABE1D5    925-068  New

E9TZ1522800A

Qty:
$75.43
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Lower
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 147 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 140 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 100 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 10
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 10
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Quantity: 3
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8.7 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - Ford Bronco Front Left Lower
Dorman
1985 Ford Bronco Door Hinge - Front Right Lower Dorman

P311-5ABE1D5    925-068  New

E9TZ1522800A

Qty:
$75.43
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right Lower
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 147 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 140 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 100 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 10
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 10
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Quantity: 3
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8.7 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Ford Bronco Front Right Lower
Dorman
1980 Ford Thunderbird Door Hinge - Front Left Upper Dorman

P311-5ABE1D5    925-068  New

E9TZ1522800A

Qty:
$75.43
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Upper
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 147 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 140 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 100 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 10
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 10
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Quantity: 3
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8.7 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1980 - Ford Thunderbird Front Left Upper
Dorman
1980 Ford Thunderbird Door Hinge - Front Right Upper Dorman

P311-5ABE1D5    925-068  New

E9TZ1522800A

Qty:
$75.43
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right Upper
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 147 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 140 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 100 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 10
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 10
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Quantity: 3
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8.7 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1980 - Ford Thunderbird Front Right Upper
Dorman
2014 Ford F-150 Door Hinge - Front Left Upper Dorman

P311-3408E95    925-073  New

6L3Z1522801AA

Qty:
$23.59
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Upper
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 108 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 132 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 85 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 10.6
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 12.2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Quantity: 3
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 7.9 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2014 - Ford F-150 Front Left Upper
Dorman
2010 Ford F-150 Door Hinge - Front Left Lower Dorman

P311-2C39286    925-074  New

6L3Z1522811AA

Qty:
$26.68
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Lower
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 110 Mm
    • Assembled Length: 135 Mm
    • Assembled Width: 78 Mm
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Configuration: One Piece
    • Flange 1 Mount Hole Diameter: 11.2
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Diameter: 12.1
    • Flange 2 Mount Hole Quantity: 2
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Package Contents: 1 Hinge
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
    • Pin Diameter (in): 8 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Ford F-150 Front Left Lower

Latest Ford Repair and Door Hinge Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Ford Mustang -Door wiring problem

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From vovovovan on Ford Mustang -Door wiring problem

I tried to change the door hinge on my pony. I disconnected the battery so that it wouldn't make the beeping noise, than I opened up the panel from the inside and found a huge wire harness there. I moved the harness to a side to screw the hinge bolt off, so anyway that's not the point. I put everything back and connected the battery, usually the the alarm shots off by opening the doors by remote, but now the doors are opening and closing, but the alarm is still on. I don't know if I damaged some of the wires, a brown wire looks like it ripped of, but I couldn't find where it was connected to. Please help.




(edit and subject change)
Tom Greenleaf

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok, now you've got your own new thread. What year is this Mustang? If you found a pulled wire with no where to go I suggest looking harder for the other end,

T

Response From vovovovan

the car is 1995. on the tip of the wire was a glue from electric tape, so it might be hidden, there was another wire that was never connected so maybe the brown one was too. What does a brown wire stands for?

Response From vovovovan

by the way those wires are not on the door, I opened up the panel underneath the steering wheel.

Response From vovovovan

finally I fixed it the brown wire wasn't the problem, there was a red wire that detached from another bigger wire, but was still under the electric tape, thats why I couldn't see it, so after checking it over today i ripped it out and found where it came from. Finally I wrapped it around the other wire and everything started to work normally.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

That’s good you found the problem and posted the fix; you posting the fix may help someone else in the future.

Just one word of caution thou; you said.

I wrapped it around the other wire

You should maybe take that connection apart again and solder or use solderless crimp-on connectors to rejoin that red wire to where it came off.
If that connection you made by wrapping it around the other becomes loose, it could cause it to become hot & burn.
Not only causing your problem to return but possibly burn the wiring harness; worse yet the whole car.

Dan.

Power Window 1983 Ford Mustang

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From rkhannv on Power Window 1983 Ford Mustang

Hey Ive got a 1983 Ford Mustang that i just bought. The passenger window wont go up. neither the passenger or driver switches will lift the window. I was able to hot wire the window up but am unsure how to fix this problem. Do i need new switches?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Motor works if you got it up on its own power. Where did you jump/hot wire from, at the door or at the switch? Careful what you do "hot wiring things" in general.


The motor works by reversing polarity to it for which direction it will spin and window go up or down accordingly.


Follow the path to find where it quits and with a plain test light you can watch switch work or not from back side of them.


Being of some age now some issues more common to a driver's door are wires that go thru the door jam where they bend frequently break either just inside insulation or a total cut. From kick panel to inside door you can check for continuity or fuss with exposing the rubber snorkel and see wires inside.


While checking know how to use a test light to check for ground as that's added to reverse motor direction thru wire not just the door hinge being trusted for a ground,


T

Power window goes down but not up

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From mjc21 on Power window goes down but not up

I have a 2003 Ford F-350 diesel I just recently bought. The problem is the front passenger window will go down but not up. Here is where I am with it.

I bought and replaced the window motor. Both motors would only go down then stop so I took them out and bench tested by putting 12v on them then reversing polarity and both motors would turn, one way then the other so I am sure they are good. I put the motor back in and hooked up a jumper and by reversing polarity could make the window go up then down.

I replaced the switch for the window (bought 2 and tried them both). I also replaced the master switch on the drivers side door. Actually I tried 4 different switches and the result was the same on each. Two wires connect to the window motor. When I disconnect this plug and measure voltage (1 meter lead grounded) across 1 wire (red w/ yellow stripe) pressing up I get 9v, pressing down I get 12v. When I put my meter on the other wire (yellow w/ red stripe) and press window switch up I get 12 v and down I get 0.

I am guessing that the 9 volts I am getting is the problem but I am seeing the same results on 4 different switches. The pin connecter that connects to the motor from switch is a 5 pin connector, one has 12 v at all tomes as long as drivers master switch is not locking out window, two wires go to motor and other 2 I am not sure where they wind up. Does it sound like I am looking in the right direction or hopefully I am missing something more obvious?

Thanks for any insight and help on this anyone can provide.

Michael

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Verify that you have ground on the black wire at the main switch. It grounds on the "C" pillar behind the driver's door.
If you don't have continuity on that wire to ground, look at the harness that passed through the door hinge.

Response From mjc21

Just got back inside and have it fixed. Was checking continuity on one of the wires from the right door switch to the main switch and none was present. Started tracing it down and found in the boot between the drivers door and frame the wire which at one time was spliced with a crimp connector had come loose. Installed a new connector and everything works as it should. I appreciate your response, its just what I found.

Response From Hammer Time

Glad to hear you found it.

2003 Ford E250 Passenger Door Key Won't Open From Outside

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From gman28 on 2003 Ford E250 Passenger Door Key Won't Open From Outside

I have a 2003 Ford E250 Van, 5.4l engine with 128,000 miles.

My key will lock my passenger front door from the outside, but will not open it. In order to open the door, you have to enter the van from the driver side, reach over and pull the handle from the inside. The door handle feels a little stiff from the outside when the door is closed but unlocked. In other words, should you elect to open the unlocked door from the outside, it will, but feels stiff compared to the driver's side door handle.

I have searched you-tube looking for a short video on how to remove the window crank handle, to remove the door lining, to see what might be broken and need repaired. I also noticed that the door handle uses rivets in its construction.

I'm hoping a forum member might have had to fix this problem and will coach me through it.

gman28

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Crank windows and manual or power locks?
Yes - you should go inside and see what's going on either set up. Tear away enough plastic so you can see inside thru access holes in door metal and I would while there not only look but spray back of lock, door handle and rods, as well as back of the latch itself and all moving parts with discretion while there. Test while apart and watching.


Some - another brand tons newer was so sticky/stuck it needed a new latch totally not really all the hard to do on many. Some I've taken out and really lubed them up and some were just too far corroded and impossible to clean up and lube up,




T

Response From gman28

Tom,

My van has crank windows and manual locks.

gman28

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Same thing except it can't be a frozen up motor. You really wont know till inside.
General: Rods are used in almost all vehicles from a key lock to the latch with jaws you see from open door which inside also connects to the door pull for open and in the mix is a physical lock rod too - all must be free to move, not bent or jammed somehow plus at latch not corroded. Ones that work at all now usually it's just lube or see where a rod somehow bent or maybe a clip that holds rod ends in place is messed up.


If those there will be left and right handed ones not necessary quick to find a new or good used one! If someone has been there before you could fake some of that with wire which wouldn't last. Ya - I've had to till I could get correct clips.


You'll know if anyone has been inside as the insulation on about all, any make is impossible to remove for access without some evidence or damage. Some might (shouldn't) leave it off totally or literally duct tape up where torn which seals it unseen inside and keeps drafts out and moisture from certain other things. Put it back or if you care enough and it's missing make one up out of heavy grade plastic, cut as needed.


Just notes to the wise on doors and using them: Don't slam doors - period. Things aren't made out of bridge grade steel in there. Don't close doors even hard with window part way down! Lube hinges and latches everywhere seen first with like a WD-40 then as seen fit a spray grease. The pins on door hinge last totally forever if lubed and do wear out, squeak when moved up to having to lift a door to close it! Some (fewer Fords) are a ROYAL IMPOSSIBLE disaster to repair, some not so bad. Lube is cheap.
Also inside where key goes light and drying silicone spray or sold as lock de-icer has lube in it. I'd avoid real grease in those or oils.
All this stuff wants lube after some years, use. OE lube will wear off or out.


Try to save it. If latch they do cost some bucks,


T

Response From gman28

Tom,

I took the door skin panel off, pulled the plastic back, and took a quick look at the inside door release handle, the outside door handle, and the lock mechanism. With the door open, I can open and lock the door with the key. But once I close the door, I can't lock the door with the key. The inside components are pretty rusty, so I sprayed everything with some pb blaster and wiped up the over-spray and drippage.

It looks like the outside door handle needs replacing. But the handle won't open far enough to get a drill bit on the rivets to drill them out. More importantly, how do I remove the metal rods without breaking them with such limited access space? I will have to search for a video on you-tube on the removal process. So, if anybody out there has a link, please post it.

gman28

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wow - Just been Googling the web away for good pics of what I expect you are dealing with. Seems if rusty/corroded you should see that rods by sight are moving full travel or bending with the key but NOT the inside lock button however placed.
Sorry for the novel but it sounds like a rod is bent and no longer strong ONE direction.
Need to know some things: If a door is locked and you are inside does just pulling the handle unlock and open the door - zillions of Fords for decades did that - others didn't - BUT on some they would put a lever on door jam near latch marked that would move such that a locked door wouldn't open with lever from inside alone - you had to unlock it at the button or someone outside by key. If this has that feature it MUST be in full UP or DOWN position as part way will mess up the whole show jamming!


Rods and clips: Generic pics of what's expected if they show..........
One style of common rod clip........

^^^^ Was there. You would swing the bail off the rod then rod comes out. Nylon stays in the hole. Other types of many sorts like some you would just push like say a right angle end of rod into a nylon piece and with some force stick in place. If those getting one OUT you pry it out but need to know what type of what. These dang thing break too.


Rods:
Generic again but like this...........

Note if that shows ^^^^ was there that rods are NOT just straight. If forced then can bend and not do the travel required and need unbending.


I asked if door opened with it locked by just lever inside. If the rods were all stuck, ice and was trying to push on a bended rod it would or could bend it too much and would possibly work only one way then by key.


If key doesn't even try now that you can watch that's another issue now dealing with broken item(s)


Watch the motion by hand and by key so you see just what moves and how far by hand or by key. Very telling and you might if a rod moves some assist it with pliers in that direction and see it that makes it work.


All this stuff is hair pulling plain silly hardware but must stay in place and nothing bent or broken never mind rusted things really mess it up?


It almost seem like at some point this was forced to open either indoor handle or outside handle while door was frozen stuck.


Issues usually broken plastic things, bent rods or corrosion that doesn't allow full travel by key especially weaker than a handle.


It might help to go see one that works in a junkyard with a junk door but works and has keys to it - if a place find an easy one with panel and crap already off.


YouTube has some impressive vehicle specific replacement procedures for some of this stuff and I don't have time to watch thru way too many to find a door handle replacement for this exact vehicle as there may be several and long or wrong problem.


IDK - If need be watch what driver's side does that passenger's side doesn't. Means that panel has to come off too but a chance to lube things in that one as well.


Some popular vehicles like this will have whole handle/lock assemblies after market but would fit if too hopeless with what you find.


I know view of things never mind hands on clips, rods or whatever is tight and dang car maker know how to make everything sharp so you cut yourself bloody reaching around almost blind or by mirrors!


So yes, I've fussed and fixed a ton of this crap that others just gave up on or couldn't spend the time on some. You should be able to leave panel off and still use the van while targeting exactly what it will take.


With rust mentioned it means to me also Winters with ice and salts - the problem of many such things all thru vehicles.


*****************
One last thing: Easy with PB as well as it can work it's a horror on some paints and some rubber parts! Careful what gets sprayed. It works as well as any if that's the issue. WD-40 is weak in comparison but harmless to most anything and less capable is the trade off.
This is remarkable hard to explain how and what to be looking for. Watch out for rivets too. Some on doors are not the common size you may be thinking of and require a special gun for the new ones that tool is VERY expensive!


If you find a YouTube that is like your problem send it to me via private message and let me insert it as posting links other than pictures isn't generally allowed.


Best I can do for now without being right there,


Tom

Response From gman28

Tom,

Let me answer your question:

Q: If the door is locked and you are inside does just pulling the handle unlock and open the door?

Ans: Yes, the door will open from the inside using the handle.

I spent most of the day searching for you tube help. Didn't find anything that was helpful for my year and setup.
Sent a few emails asking others if they had any helpful files, but came up with another dead end. I took a good
look at the inside and will be changing the outside door handle first. See if that solves the problem and proceed
from there.

I have to order the handle sometime tomorrow. Don't like the idea of using rivets again. Have to see if there is
an handle out there uses bolts and nuts.

gman28

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - inside handle both unlocks and opens door in one motion - just means like I thought more is moving or needs to then ones that don't do that.
Check for aftermarket handle if popular might even be I stock.


Rivets: There may be no room for nuts and bolts plus if you even can holding back side while tightening may not work and undoing it if needed might not be able to hold back side?


Rivet may be the pest if the larger one. Said the gun was nasty expensive. Like close to $400 bucks! One I'm thinking of is hydraulic and very powerful. Doubt rentable?


IDK - you are looking at it. At some point if tools for one use is in the way see if a body shop will just do that and finish the rest yourself if it must be replaced or come out?


Good luck. Fussy little junk inside doors can be a hassle as you are finding out,



T

Response From gman28

Tom,

Success, I managed to repair my door handle yesterday. I wish to post the new updated OEM Ford replacement part numbers. This information will help anyone searching for them in the future.

Updated passenger outside door handle: 8C2Z-1522404-AD
List Price: $56.62 - Online Price around $39.63
Note: New handle is plastic vs original metal unit.

Ford also updated the rivets, new part number is W525172-S417 List price $2.51 each.
Note: I did not use rivets in my repair. I don't own the special rivet tool, nor could I rent one. I decided to use 1/4" x 3/4" stainless steel pan head bolts, washers, and Free Spinning Washer Nuts. Purchased from my local hardware store.

Repair steps once I removed the outer door panel and water shield:

1. I removed the three bolts holding the door latch with a T-27 Torx Bit Socket.

2. I then removed the right side window rail with a 11 mm socket.

3. Turned the latch sideways to see how to disconnect yellow clip. Used a curved hook tool and pulled it open to release the threaded rod. Note: It turned out that I didn't need to do remove the latch bolts once I saw how it was designed.

4. Next, I removed the broken handle.

5. Inserted the new Ford handle.

6. Placed a washer on the bolt, inserted the top bolt first, reached inside the door, placed a washer on the bolt using a needle nose pliers, worked the nut onto the bolt, tightened it using a 7/16 open head wrench and Phillips screw driver.

7. Moved onto the lower bolt. It proved to be a little more challenging because of the other rod obstacles. I solved that problem by using a needle nose vise grip securing the bolt and by placing the nut up against the hole, inserted the screw and washer and tightened it up. I had to call my son for help on this one. He screwed the bolt while I held the nut in place.

8. Checked to make sure everything worked, opening and closing the door from the outside with the key.

9. Reassembled everything and was happy as a lark.

Thanks for the help, and I hope that the above information might help others in the future.

gman28

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Glad it's fixed and all worked out with what must be aftermarket parts so this is popular.


Just a warning on hardware, where rivets were used: Yes you can and have here or there. What can go wrong is if you have to get back later with nut and bolt types if frozen up real good you may not be able to get them out again without damaging something? All depends on where located and access to both sides or not.
Again - those larger rivets are just fine - the dang tool is the problem! Costs a fortune and no way around that,


Tom

Response From gman28

Tom,

I used a Ford part for the repair.


gman28

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Might be? If exact OE was discontinued the new one could be plastic and not metal? That or FORD like others gets parts wherever they can also or in fact has discontinued the one you replaced? Can't really know. Glad it's fixed is the result.


Let it be. I'll close out thread as locked to keep spammers out. YOU may request it be re-opened by any moderator,


T