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Dorman
1995 Chevrolet W4500 Tiltmaster Door Hinge - Front Left Dorman

P311-146342E    924-5603  New

8978520075 , 97852007 , 8978520074 , HLK2050 , 8978520073

Qty:
$63.18
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left
  • From 9/94 Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm – Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Interior/Exterior: Exterior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Chevrolet W4500 Tiltmaster Front Left
Dorman
1995 Chevrolet W4500 Tiltmaster Door Hinge - Front Right Dorman

P311-146342E    924-5603  New

8978520075 , 97852007 , 8978520074 , HLK2050 , 8978520073

Qty:
$63.18
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right
  • From 9/94 Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm – Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Interior/Exterior: Exterior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Chevrolet W4500 Tiltmaster Front Right
Dorman
2000 Chevrolet Tahoe Door Hinge - Front Left Upper 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-287CEE7    924-102  New

12475075

Qty:
$67.21
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Upper
  • Door Side Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 1 In.
    • Assembled Length: 1 In.
    • Assembled Width: 1 In.
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Chevrolet Tahoe Front Left Upper V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Dorman
2000 Chevrolet Tahoe Door Hinge - Front Right Upper 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-4431404    924-105  New

12475076

Qty:
$65.23
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right Upper
  • Door Side Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 1 In.
    • Assembled Length: 1 In.
    • Assembled Width: 1 In.
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Chevrolet Tahoe Front Right Upper V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Dorman
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic Door Hinge - Front Left Dorman

P311-2FE780A    924-110  New

12477888 , 12472843

Qty:
$70.82
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left
  • Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 1 In.
    • Assembled Length: 1 In.
    • Assembled Width: 1 In.
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Not Required
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic Front Left
Dorman
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic Door Hinge - Front Right Dorman

P311-5487629    924-111  New

12472844 , 12477887

Qty:
$70.11
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right
  • Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 1 In.
    • Assembled Length: 1 In.
    • Assembled Width: 1 In.
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Not Required
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic Front Right
Dorman
2000 Chevrolet Tahoe Door Hinge - Front Left Lower 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-0FBE729    924-103  New

12475077 , 12475677

Qty:
$35.41
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Lower
  • Door Side Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 1 In.
    • Assembled Length: 1 In.
    • Assembled Width: 1 In.
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Chevrolet Tahoe Front Left Lower V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Dorman
2005 Chevrolet Blazer Door Hinge - Front Left Lower Dorman

P311-0F92BB9    924-107  New

15981545

Qty:
$67.06
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Lower
  • Door Side Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 1 In.
    • Assembled Length: 1 In.
    • Assembled Width: 1 In.
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Chevrolet Blazer Front Left Lower
Dorman
2000 Chevrolet Tahoe Door Hinge - Front Right Lower 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-1C43746    924-104  New

12475078

Qty:
$35.41
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Right Lower
  • Door Side Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 1 In.
    • Assembled Length: 1 In.
    • Assembled Width: 1 In.
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Right Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Chevrolet Tahoe Front Right Lower V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Dorman
2005 Chevrolet Blazer Door Hinge - Front Left Upper Dorman

P311-126E5FF    924-106  New

15981547

Qty:
$69.78
Dorman Door Hinge  Front Left Upper
  • Door Side Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Assembled Height: 1 In.
    • Assembled Length: 1 In.
    • Assembled Width: 1 In.
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Interior/Exterior: Interior
    • Pin Attachment Method: Fixed
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front Left Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Chevrolet Blazer Front Left Upper

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Door Hinge Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

93 Chevy Z71 heitates, now dies when door is shut

Showing 4 out of 28 Posts | Show 24 Hidden Posts
Question From lesgohuntn on 93 Chevy Z71 heitates, now dies when door is shut

First time user, so bare with me, please. Bought truck new. 93 chevy z71, 5.7 350, tbi Never got great mileage (12- 14 mpg). Probably 6 years old, started loosing power as I accelerated, but when I eased off on throttle, it would pick up and take off. Mileage dropped to 9- 10 mpg. I accidentally blew my motor up in an ice storm, and put in a crate motor, but used old tbi. Long story short.. 5 mechanics, 4 different Diagnostic hook ups (with 4 diff machines that all showed nothing wrong), and several years passed, as I was just driving it with the hesitation. I told my main mechanic to throw parts at it. Replaced fuel filter, wires, plugs, distributor cap, jets in tbi , vacuum checked, fuel pump, computer, every relay and sensor on truck... finally called me and asked me to come get it, he wouldn't even charge me labor nor some of the parts, because it stomped him! Few years later, an older Chevrolet tech said replace whole tbi. I did. mileage jumped to 15+ mpg, and ran like a charm for 3 months. Started again.. mpg 7- 8 ! Was going to replace tbi again, but when I hit a bump, engine dies, but fired right back up. Then it would die and have to wait 10- 30 min before it would fire up. Then you shut the door, it would die. Now it will not crank at all! I have traced wires, vacuums, check fuel flow, etc. Can anyone help me? I don't have a clue were to go from here, and cannot afford any more trips to mechanic.

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From lesgohuntn

Every time I try to work on it, it runs fine, shutting door, or hitting a bump will not shut engine off. But if I try to go somewhere in it, bump kills it. When I finally made it home, It won't do it so I can diagnose it. Hopefully, now you have given me a list of where to start, and the fact it wouldn't crank at all the last time I tried to, maybe I will have some luck. I'll have to see if I can afford the fuel pres. gauge, comp. tester, and spark tester, to run the tests. (I've always used the grounding the removed plug method for checking spark, but one of your moderators put that method down pretty bad to another poster)
In your opinion, as I believe, do you think the hesitation and bump killing the engine are 2 separate problems?
Thanks, and I'll get back to you when I can afford the testers required, and preform tests.

Response From Hammer Time

We're never going to know un til we get some info from these tests. The spark tester and noid lights can usually be bought for under $10. The fuel pressure gauge and comporession tester can usually be rented or borrowed from one of the chain part stores like Autozone or Advance auto.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote from post #3 ">>Hopefully, now you have given me a list of where to start, and the fact it wouldn't crank at all the last time I tried to, maybe I will have some luck."


Yikes - you hit a bump, truck totally dies then guess it must start and run again later so testing much is going to show it works.


Does this reset clock and radio also when this can happen? You may have a total disconnect of power and ground all to be checked battery to starter (+) battery to engine block (-) and straps from block to body in view and look for those that aren't. I thing one might be seen from trans to motor area as well.


The grounding plug to check for spark just isn't the best at all. Use an in line tester (cheap enough) but doubt that cause all this.


If this just goes total dead - everything then later starts and runs like nothing wrong you've lost all power and ground somewhere as said,


T

Response From lesgohuntn

The clock and radio never resets. I've checked the grounds and even considered adding extra grounds to bypass old ones to see if that helped, but been down in my back so haven't attempted yet. My Dad has a 92 z71, his did something very similar, and his mechanic put an ignition module (under rotor button in distributer), his ran like new. I tried it (shot in the dark) on mine, it ran good for the test drive, but when I turned in my driveway.... died again and too 15 min or so before it cranked again! I thought it maybe was getting hot if the old heat resistant grease was failing, and when I installed the new one, I applied the new grease supplied. It's been like a needle in a hay stack! If I didn't just love my old truck, I'd give it away, but she's very sentimental to me. Sentimental has been very expensive for me though.. lol

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just to clarify - You keep saying "CRANK" as in when it dies it doesn't turn or CRANK engine and think you mean it just doesn't start - huge difference!
Lost until we know and go back to post of testing an ALL CRANK, NO START post above and do the tests. What's missing and you don't know - right?


Clock or radio staying on suggests strongly you are not losing 100% of battery power so what does the sound make when you try to start it and if not certain do you see the fan on the engine turn when trying along with belt(s) turning?


Just FYI - something that happened to work on another vehicle means almost nothing,


T

Response From lesgohuntn

First off, FYI when you've had issues for so long, tried every thing, and many mechanical minds, nor myself, can't find what the problem is, trying something that fix a very similar problem on another 5.7 that is just like mine means everything (you said "means nothing") The part cost a lot less than many hours of paying a mechanic to not find anything, was well worth the effort to me! That being said now, to the other clarifications: When I say "crank", I mean I turn the key and the engine starts up and continues to run. When I say "won't crank" it means I turn the key and the engine turns over but will not start, or fires up a little, but goes dead instantly. If key is turned and engine doesn't turn at all, that is in my terms "Will not turn over".
Serpentine belt turns everything and all pulleys turn as I try to "crank it" or in your terms (I think) "no start".
The engine doesn't make any unusual noises, nor sound like it is in any strain as I turn it over. It just turns over and over. Then later, I turn the key, and it fires up as if nothing was ever wrong. Which has led me to believe at times, it is heat related. But just when I buy into heat related, I'll crank it up while engine is cold, shut the door, and... it dies! I immediately try to diagnose it, and fire it back up, Slam door several times, and it will not go dead!
Still, the whole problem comes back every time to the fact it cranks sometimes, it doesn't crank and run sometimes, and EVERY TIME I try to work on it, it will run fine. I mean how do you track that down??? But I go to use the truck, it gets me down the road and goes dead. When I get it fired back up and to the house, it won't do it! Just very frustrated that it is getting the worst out of me!!

Response From Hammer Time

Turn over and Crank mean the exact same thing. You have what we cal a "Crank, no start"

trying something that fix a very similar problem on another 5.7 that is just like mine means everything (you said "means nothing")

No, it means nothing. There can be dozens of different causes for the same symptoms and what fixes one car usually has absolutely nothing to do with the other, especially when your only like symptom is that it won't start.

Response From lesgohuntn

OK. I'm from the South, so what I've understood my whole life must be different in mechanical terms. My bad. But, not trying to argue, after all the problems tracking and not finding, I feel, with the low cost for the part, it was worth a try. But I get where ya'll are coming from: don't replace parts until you know what part to replace. I get it. It was just an act of desperation! Thank you, and I'll try to use terms ya,ll are accustomed to from now on, as I see how what I say is confusing to you. Thanks again

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This isn't a debate you need to know if an engine cranks or just doesn't do anything at all. The word turnover always confuses it. Not a North or South, East or West anything.


Had you checked for spark in second post as suggested you wouldn't have bothered more checking much about an ignition problem and not changed a module if free why do that unless these had a very strong history of them going bad in that manner and they don't. Now what you do know since it wasn't the problem that is NOT the problem and mark the old one good and use it if it ever is the problem.


Understood this is a real and annoying problem you state happens by bumps and just shutting a door. So, if it has time while it just cranks and doesn't start that's when you check for what is missing, usually it would just lose any spark or not have fuel delivered. Have test stuff at the ready for WHEN it's not starting.


It's actually harder in that it eventually does start as then you question if testing was valid or not. At least you could either test fuel pressure or prime it with fuel and if a quick start up and die out you know to look on for fuel issues. No spark can be done alone and not going to bother explaining for this engine would be better to have a helper crank the engine with a spark tester (just a light up thing between plug wire and plug) and watch if it lights while being cranked by the helper.


Will be difficult if it doesn't stay in the all crank not starting mode long enough to test,


T

Response From Hammer Time

What I would do is let the truck idle and go around jiggling wire harnesses and plugs and tapping on electrical components, especially the ECM and see if you can trigger a stall.

Response From lesgohuntn

Hammertime, I have tried the jiggling method to no success, but ya'll have given me more info that I believe will be very helpful, once I'm able to get back to it. Thank you both very much, and I keep you posted if I have any success next time around.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thoughts and some mostly free things to do and try:


When you get something intermittent like this you may NOT be sure what fixed it unless boldly wrong something in sight. Then it's still hard to trust for a period of time that you won't get stuck again with the issue. It stinks.


Things that could add up and good to do on this and many vehicles but let's concentrate on GM and a body (metal) on chassis vehicle - any really.


Frame is actually isolated from the battery power as is engine and drivetrain by rubber parts so it needs the grounding either direct from the battery to body metal or engine block to body metal. That is repeated thru a vehicle to double up on grounding metal such that you don't need to constantly run a separate wire for assorted things for ground you just use body metal.


Parts of body are welded, bolted or hinged so these straps are added. Truck beds are actually isolated so need another jump to frame or more.


Frame is not rigid and does flex plus exposed to vibrations, bumps, heat, cold, wet, dry and let's toss in corrosion! Even more that escapes me for now.


So, you can ADD grounds on suspect areas or when you see those straps usually bolted clean them up wire brush or sandpaper with a smear of grease and put back. Include battery cables at batter GM sideposts are handy but hide corrosion and remarkable at fooling people the because the bolt it tight it must be good - NOT. That bolt requires the hidden eyelet to be good as well. That spot for now and this problem is not the likely problem but while in the course of care check those, grease or at least WD-40 like these things periodically and they rarely act up a LOT older than this truck even a lot more exposed to the elements than the South usually offers either with extremes.


You can test with decent jumper cables to harmless frame area to engine block and again block or frame back to body parts made of metal. Nice to have plain grounded things known and be done with that in the mix.


Neg battery cable to side (on this) of engine block is also a problem sometimes and intermittent. In the course of both time and if engine or other work requires it get removed and put back or forgotten forever, tugged on doing something else and so on.
Noted: This happens when you hit bumps or close the door that also suggests you just got in and put weight on the body to frame plus the whack of door closing made for just enough loss to mess it up still unknown where for sure. In short, you know what can trigger the problem hence you were advised the good ole "wiggle test" of things just no luck yet.


Wiring plugs all thru the thing matter especially those exposed to weather. Wires and plugs to anything to do with fuel delivery especially right down under and at fuel pump wiring.


Any maker but GM uses a lot of that greenish rubber bellows at some connections to keep moisture out then later can keep a leaking one from moisture drying out so they rot out and quit intermittently or all at once and stay as if disconnected which is much easier to locate so plain looking for corrosion on known essential items is in order.


If you take one or any connection in wiring apart and find a dry crusty maybe green or white mess there's a problem there. Some you need a new or better used exact plug than the one you find. Hello junk yarding for some.


The plastic bails and clips don't age well and frequently break that are meant to hold them together tightly. Sh*t, now what to do as nothing is really available new so many good wire ties can hold those tight again.


Grease those connections with "dietetic" or ask for "electrical grease" which is near impossible to rinse off or wash away easily. It also shouldn't conduct electricity by itself and is very rubber and plastic friendly. Also can call it Silicone grease. Stuff does cost but you don't need much to do the trick.


If you want things to last about forever (my middle name) you have to do this assertively.


In short you can prevent the next hair pulling issue with care along the way,


T

Response From lesgohuntn

I'm not so sure, but do you have some Southern blood in you?... wire ties? (just joking) We use wire ties, hay bailing twine, zip ties, and duct tape for everything around here! lol No, really a great idea, as I have encountered several of these plastic bails and clips, on this truck and many other vehicles, and never once thought of wire tie to help keep them snug! I have the electrical grease on hand already as I am a residential builder, and do a lot of electrical work.. just haven't thought to use it on DC connections.

I can't wait to get back to work on this thing, armed with so much more knowledge, tips, ideas, and more confidence both of you have given me (and much appreciated), but it has been raining here the last 2 days, and I currently have no where to get the truck in out of the rain to work on it. Great site ya'll have going here! And great minds giving advise! Thank you, and when I am able to get back to it, I'll post when I get any results (or failures).

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

It's called "Yankee Ingenuity" and I really don't mean hack things up but things break you just are not going to find so do something that is safe and lasts.


The synthetics really work. I don't even oil a door hinge with regular oil then grease over that. I've had some untold hundreds of vehicles given to me in need of just too much mostly labor crap but sound major engine and trans plus little to no rust as that's the killer for anything where I am.


Was useful with any grease but permanent with the better stuff for assorted things. Not just cars stuff - use it on dang garden hoses that never come apart, faucet washers, wadding for sill cocks and more - anything that moves. Don't get that on anything you ever want to paint!


Back: Wiring and other things for cars slowly ended certain metal. You will find much less copper and brass for anything and lead (Pb) is gone for battery cable ends, mercury not allowed for switches even!


Point is plastic and rubber things are not forever flexible or hold tight. I can't see giving up on a good vehicle over stupid stuff like that.


If in all this didn't say and it is a wild guess is that wires on way to fuel pump should have a connector and your trouble is there and you would know better if quiet when down you won't hear the fuel pump prime up (buzz) for a couple seconds with key just turned to run not the start position. Didn't check where it is if not that a fuel pump relay if used this model year suspect too. Most of those if caught I just whack them and if they work instantly toss it for new,


T

Response From lesgohuntn

Tom and/ or HT, I definitely have ALL CRANK/ NO START now. I turned the IGN. to run and the fuel pump runs, but not for the 4 or so seconds it normally does. It runs for a full 10+ seconds, and continually sounds weaker the longer it runs. (I've never heard it get weaker before.) I'm not sure if it gets weaker as it builds up pressure, or what, but if it was building pressure, it should be delivering fuel to TBI, as I've already replaced fuel filter? Or reckon the fuel pump is just too weak to deliver fuel? I tried to rent fuel press. tester, at local Auto Zone (the only place in 20 miles of me), $165.28 to rent (I don't have that much money to rent I know they refund at least some of the money when I return it but I have to have the money to start with!) I did however, pour gas in TBI, CRANK/ RAN for couple seconds. Firing, Ign. all working for it to burn the fuel that was poured in TBI, right? Fuel pump weak or bad, or what is your take on the situation?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? You do get all you money back for safe return of those rentals TMK.


You hear it not quite right. Would be better to see it off spec and that it can't hold too. There's still a chance it just doesn't get strong electrical power thru wires and connections too like cheap jumper cable just don't do it kinda thing if you will.
Doing some math, you need to drive 40 miles just to rent a tester then return it another 40 miles and don't have the cash. They should take a credit card but you have to have a valid one and it would hold that $$ on it.


I'm not sure if you can put your hands up to wires right at access on tank without taking is down at least some to check wiring right there but would prepare for a new fuel pump. I'll let you price that out but whole units of OE quality do have a much better track record of lasting.


At least spray the tank straps and things you know you would have to take apart now in hopes they will not break if rusted even a little they car be fussy and take up time and more parts just dropping a tank for any reason.


Still scratching my head why a plain worn out pump would be so sensitive to bumps? Not sure about why on that?


T

Response From lesgohuntn

I don't have any credit cards... Too easy to get in trouble with them (some reason they want you to pay back that money! LOL)



I'm like you, I can't see how a worn out pump would be so sensitive to bumps. The pump that is on it is not very old, although I realize sometimes replacements may not last long.


As for the wires, I can see them, but they are in a tight space. When I try to reach them I can't see what I'm doing because my hand is in the way.

I just remembered, I already have a new pump and strainer bought several months ago. I didn't put it on because something I did at the time, made me believe it wasn't the problem. (It has been a dreaded task I'm afraid I'm going to have to do before this is over) Would you drop the tank, or unbolt and raise front of bed? Seen it done both ways, I just haven't ever put one on myself.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Raise bed or drop tank thing"


I'm in a rust belt so a 1993 would bust all the mounts and still fight with the tank, filler neck and evap lines and more. Dropping tank would be the way here not if you are unrusty and have help to lift whole bed off or tilt without harm and tools to do it. Your call on that totally.


I'm still caught with why intermittent and bumps? Makes me think you could just whack places with a heavy rubber hammer and cause or cure the problem at will and find it's back to wiring and ground just losing it to carry enough power/amps to do the trick. All over again that testing with proper electrical tests both now while it's happening and when not compared would take out the risk of being all wrong with diagnosis. A new pump might work only because you disconnected its wiring and reconnected it that I've mentioned already. This is no fun. You really might not be sure if this is going to play cat and mouse with you. Yup, room here for even totally checked out to be wrong on exactly what and where. Stuff of the sort when in biz really doesn't please anyone when wrong - trust me!


With this history and your observations if pushed I'd ask to drive the thing for a day or two with all sorts of test things in view to watch while it happens - impossible to do for most or even shops unwilling to go that far for you money or not,


T

Response From lesgohuntn

Long time since I last posted. I admit, I gave up on the old truck for awhile. I recently started trying to diagnose again.
Turns out, fuel pump was weak. I replaced with pump I already had on hand. I had checked the ground, was good, but I cleaned and applied elect. grease, as was suggested. Running again, but still... shut door, engine died.
I discovered I hit the steering wheel... dies. Slap dash... dies. shut hood... dies. I returned to dash and started bumping in diff. locations, and the closer I got to glove box, the easier to get reaction (engine dies). I reached under glove box and moved wire bundle to ECM... died. Repeated... same. Repeated... engine idle increased. I tried the "wiggle test" before in the same manner, months ago, (as was suggested) and got no reaction... this time reaction every time bundle was moved. As it got dark tonight, I had moved the wires around several times... slammed doors, hood, bumped dash, wiggled wires... I finally got to turn the truck off with the switch!!!
As soon as I get the chance, the glove box once again, is coming out, I'm going to discharge the static from body, and check connections, again. Wish me luck, but I think the problem may be diagnosed.
Thank you all so much, and I will repost when I'm positive this is finally the fix, or not.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Still here, quite the time and a read on this but trying from this end.


OK! Seems you've found this bundle of wires that will cause it to act up - YES! That's your area to pay total attention to.


In all this you've said bumping dash, steering wheel, slamming doors (don't do that BTW) aggravates/causes the problem. Now lost as to what totally grounds the dash as a whole the most? I think it relies on side bolts such that it can totally pivot down or lay down on the front seat(s) if you will? That would be quite rare to lose ground IMO. I'd add a ground strap anyway dash metal to body metal and make real sure battery or engine block to body is also well grounded. I think it's main (several around) ground strap is under the hood, passenger's side you'll see strap from frame to body down by starter motor.
OMG - What do you mean getting static out of the body? Yes, it is and was a concern or just annoying to get a slight shock from metal when getting out of a vehicle and blamed for assorted things going funky since the invention of the light bulb!
It's real but never hear of it and almost certainly NOT your issue and if it does shock you with static say so and can find out why as no vehicle this NEW has done that to me personally and they did from the 50s and 60s! Yikes - getting old.
!!!! Just looked, they still sell them new. Pic below if shows now can only be and old joke or if a vehicle's body really held some static charge something is wrong somewhere if ongoing.

Not joking. This problem has gone on for ages up to a new engine you mentioned over an ice storm? What happened even that long ago now? Hit by lightening? Not joking - if that is in this history you might not know it?


It does happen to ships and they need to be "degaussed." Just Googled this and the problem still exists and is more for electronic devices to fix or destroy them but is known to cause erratic electrical behaviors. Vehicles are full of such devices including this and could interfere with it making proper spark. Why it didn't fry something and make itself clear IDK.
That is spelled correctly "DEGAUSSED" and I'll let you search out solutions and testing if this is the problem. I've never heard of or believe such thing would or could be long term or intermittent for a motor vehicle? That doesn't mean it isn't or couldn't be the problem. There actually are machines/devices to fix this for electronics!


Tom
(edited in more on subject)
This is real!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degaussing
Apparently happens to be a magnetic charge in metal that can even harm or destroy assorted electronics even now!

Response From lesgohuntn

OK, I feel really stupid now, but here it is.
I was told early on by "Hammer Time" to pay special attention to ECM while tapping and wiggling wires as a potential problem, and I did, at least I thought. Turns out, on my ECM, there was a indentation where the harness clips on to ECM that I thought (and obviously the last Chevrolet dealership mechanic) that was where it was suppose to lock the harness on, was a flaw in the plastic. My ECM wasn't plugged all the way in, and yes I did over look that before and this morning as well. It was clipped on, but not on the lock tab it was suppose to be on! I was giving up this morning, about to put glove box back together, and decided to look it over one more time... BINGO... on next wiggle it clicked deeper into ECM and locked! Only then did I see what was happening.
I checked the codes on the OBD, and the only code it flashed was 12, which as you probably know, just means OBD is working. While doing all the tracking wires and trying to find the problem, before, I got several different codes, as I know why now.
Do I feel dumb... YES! But am I happy that problem is now solved... SURE AM!
The static thing was about something I read in a Haynes manual to discharge static from hands by touching metal on the body of truck before plugging or unplugging ECM, as static could damage the unit. Just didn't want to take any chances in frying the unit or something. I didn't think it was that much of an issue, but aired on the side of caution since, I'm sure the Haynes folks have had much more experience in that area than I have.
And slamming the door thing, the hinges on drivers door are letting door sag, and I have to shut door hard to latch it shut. I wasn't implying that I just slam it to get a reaction. Hinges just another project that hasn't got the attention needed yet. Soon to come, I hope, as well as the steering gear that decided to spray my boots with power steering fluid while attempting to diagnose the wiring issue. It blew a seal. I guess that's what I get for giving up, and letting it set too long.


Any way, again, I want to thank all who helped me. If not for all of you, I don't think I would have figured this head ache out! Ya'll are doing a great thing for folks like me, who knows some basics, but lack the experience needed to solve these kind of issues. If ever I said anything to offend any of you, I sincerely apologize. I went through many days of bad moods with this issue, but that's still no excuse.
Thanks again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Great! Clearly worried your truck was magnetically possessed or something totally out of any norms.


Hey - Door hinges on this: Take a look now and do soon. You should notice that the whole hinge is welded to both door and body with a pin with bronze bushing you can replace but not adjust the door UP to close better.


Bring that up in another thread if lots of trouble for some tricks that may work if new pins alone are a problem - cheap and easy with a helper to hold the door pretty much,


T

Response From lesgohuntn

OK on the door hinges, Thanks
I have another issue right now with an overheating engine, that I just flushed cooling system, replaced thero. and rad. cap. I've got to do some more checking to do, but, if I need help, do I need to bring up another thread, or continue here?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Slight chance overheat related so OK to stay here and should be quicker.


When? Was it overheating before or only after flushing? If both times and no change is it really reading correct temp? Does top hose wait from cold and warm up when t-stat opens at all - also heater work?


If after it's usually just not really full yet and air still in system - Chev V8 shouldn't be a horror to fill. Run till new t-stat opens watch level drop with cap off even and just fill and watch. Then cap back on and reservoir filled and run again till you feel fan blowing heat off radiator shut it down and let cool. Check level at radiator cap again as many cycles as it takes.


Reasons for this include bad info on gauge, possible bad new thermostat, weak as in VERY weak fan clutch which requires special tool to replace. When radiator is blowing warm to hot air thru it should grab and pull air thru well. IDK, some will let them get hot and spin by hand (duh - engine off) and see fan not coast but stop quickly.


Since this truck has whacked issues if you use pure antifreeze and it's pretty dang hot where you are it wont cool engine well. Try hard not to exceed 50/50 antifreeze + water. Pure antifreeze (makers hate to tell you) suks as a coolant by itself!


Just FYI and if you can check with infrared thermo the housing of thermostat should be pretty close to the rating of thermostat which I think is around 195F or so. Always use OE spec temp rated thermostats.


Touch and feel carefully and air out then go from there if not right and credible that it's really overheating. If boiling clue is heater will quit blowing hot air! Don't ask, just believe me!


Tom

Response From kev2

My thought - after 10 months and 26 posts I suggest A new thread.

was there an issue before flushing?
be sure system is full no air, correct press cap, no blockecd off heater hoses, serpentine belt routing OK, correct thermostat, installed right, then on to the new post with the info....PS we love details it really helps....

Response From lesgohuntn

This is precisely the aggravation I'm dealing with, is it won't stay in the all crank no start mode long enough for me to diagnose. I'm sorry my terminology creates confusion. I'm still trying to learn what to say to get ya'll to understand. The module I changed was before I found this site, so I didn't ignore the instructions ya'll gave me, I had already made that mistake before being on told here how to approach the diagnosing. Thanks for being patient with me, and when I'm able to get the right tools to do a real diagnosis, I know the info you have given will be of great help.

1999 1/2 or new body style Silverado 4X4 1500

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From mdaniel on 1999 1/2 or new body style Silverado 4X4 1500

I have one that I ordered in 99, never been wrecked and has spent most of it's life in our garage, not parked outside. This truck is in mint condition.
But about a year or so ago I noticed everytime it rains and the truck is parked outside, the passenger side floorboard gets flooded with water.
I don't think it is anything coming in from the firewall, but down the door hinge post or windshield maybe, as there is no sign of moisture on the slope of the passenger side floorboard.

So I guess my question is,....... Is there a known weak spot for leakage on the passenger side of these trucks.

Many thanks for any help.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

This TSB MAY apply....
#99-08-64-013: Water Leaks Into Passenger Compartment (Install Frt Side Dr Water Shield) - (Jul 28, 1999) Subject: Water Leaking Into Passenger Compartment (Install Front Side Door Lower Water Shield) Models: 1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado and Sierra) Condition Some owners may comment on wet carpet or water leaking into the passenger compartment near the lower opening of either front door. Correction A lower water shield has been developed to correct this condition. Install the lower water shield on affected vehicles. Use the following procedure and part number listed below. 1. Remove the door trim panel and partially remove the primary door water deflector. Refer to the Doors subsection of the Service Manual. 2. Remove the auxiliary water deflector from the door inner panel and discard. 3. Install the lower water shield, P/N 15751725, to the door trim panel. 4. Install the primary water deflector and the door trim panel. Refer to the Doors subsection of the Service Manual. 5. Repeat the above steps for the other door. Parts Information P/N Description Qty 15751725 Shield, Frt. S/D Lower Water 2 Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Excellent "JJ"

I own a 97 C/K 2500 with no leaks - yet? Same body IMO and all original. There's one area of incorrect weatherstripping from new that doesn't leak so I'm leaving that alone.

MDaniel: As said, some replacement windshields just don't fit right! Should be OE, PPG, Autolite or a branded name or can be troubles.
Glass is marked somewhere.

Keep at it, you'll find the leak,

Tom

Response From mdaniel

Wow!
Thanks for all the good info.
Like I said, this truck as been babied since day 1 and I ordered it new. It's never been wrecked, never had any body work or windshield replacement done. Shucks it's never been on a gravel road or really bad dirty. The truck is in showroom condition.

@ re-tired, I hope I'm reading your post correct, but the evap case on this model is all behind the firewall, nothing exposed in the engine compartment.

@ Double J, this sounds very much like what is happening with my truck.

I can't say again how much I appreciate y'all's advise.

Thanks.

Response From re-tired

Just trying the shotgun approach. Whether the case is internal or external it can still cause leakage ,mounting harware seals,line pass thru grommets and such. All can have drain blockage problems . I should have been a little more detailed in my advise . Looks like your on the way to a resolution.



BTW......JJ , You have been awarded the covented "W2O Gold Star" for thinking in the line of duty.

Response From Double J


for thinking in the line of duty.



I promise i won't let it happen again! LOL...

Response From mdaniel

Just wanted to give an update.
Double J, was right on the money at where my leak is/was.
Used a good grade of caulk/adhesive to repair the existing shield and all is good.

Thanks again JJ!

Response From Double J

Cool

Thanks for the update

Glad it worked out for you

Response From mdaniel

"I can't say again how much I appreciate y'all's advise."

Should read "I can't say enough again,.......... how much I appreciate y'all's advise.

Sorry, thinking faster than I can type... LOL

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pretty sure I can speak for all the regulars here who are UNPAID here to help as best we can. Yes, all guys right now and some SHARP tacks as you may have noticed.

Anyone can chime in. Good luck with the find and fix for this.

Some weird stuff out there if you find a crack or just a spot. "Removable caulking" - hardware store item and tolerates wild temp extremes. Other is A/C funky rubber stuff - ask at an auto parts store.

Mods please. If we can't fix this crap suggest another site that might - best thru a PM but I don't care for this case.

Side Topic: Phones and about anything all funky still in New England. Slowly getting it back in order??

Tom

Response From mdaniel

Sorry Tom, ...........didn't mean to step on any toes.
Very appreciative for all the comments and suggestions.

Thanks again all.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can see thru a puter screen you are a good egg. Want to see this fixed and only so much you can do on the web of course.

Trust me, we are trying.

Best,

Tom

Response From re-tired

Most common is the evap case , either where it seals to the firewall or the drain is plug. The door jamb can have holes from bad welding .Last but not forgotten is the winshield seal. A way to find the culprit is to dust a fine layer of talcum or baby powder in suspect areas . Wait for rain or drive thru a car wash. Or let the kids wash the truck.Look for telltale track.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This crap stinks of course. I've had some luck using quality painter's tape over windshield seal and if that ends it, you've found it.

If windshield has ever been replaced I'd bet that is the source but could be if original too??

T