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Cardone
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Drive Shaft - Front 6 Cyl 5.9L Cardone

P311-4BDEDFC    65-9538  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $280.12
Cardone Drive Shaft Front
  • Prop Shaft - Domestic
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Drive Shaft Material: Steel
    • Greasable: Yes
    • Length: 19"
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken By Measuring The Tube Length Only. Measure From The Centerline Of The Weld On One End To The Centerline Of The Weld On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position Transmission
2004 - Dodge Ram 2500 L - 359 Front Standard
Cardone
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Drive Shaft - Front 6 Cyl 5.9L Cardone

P311-0EDB620    65-9107  Remanufactured

Qty:
$29.70 $230.68
Cardone Drive Shaft Front
  • Prop Shaft - Domestic
  • Measure from centerline of U-Joint on each end of collapsed shaft.
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Driveshaft/ Prop Shaft
  • Product Attributes:
    • Drive Shaft Material: Steel
    • Greasable: Yes
    • Length: 27 9/16"
    • Measurement Method: Measurement Is Taken From The Centerline Of The U-joint Located At The Slip Yoke End To The Centerline Of The Furthest U-joint On The Opposite End Of The Collapsed Prop Shaft.
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Prop Shafts/Driveshafts are engineered to meet or exceed the original fit, form and function. Original designs are scrutinized and improved to make longer lasting parts. All units are tested to ensure reliable performance every time.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Fuel Type Position Transmission Trans. Speed
2000 - Dodge Ram 2500 L - 359 DIESEL Front Standard 5
Victor Reinz
2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Engine Conversion Gasket Set Victor Reinz

P311-448A925    W0133-2045214  New

Qty:
$119.65
Victor Reinz Engine Conversion Gasket Set
Brand: Victor Reinz
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2002 - Dodge Ram 2500 6
Mopar
2009 Dodge Ram 2500 Radiator Cap Mopar

P311-117F470    W0133-1668798  New

Qty:
$19.54
Mopar Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Dodge Ram 2500
SKF
1998 Dodge Ram 2500 Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal SKF

P311-3661934    W0133-1675286  New

Qty:
$20.04
SKF Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New Process Transfer Case 241
Brand: SKF
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Dodge Ram 2500
SKF
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal SKF

P311-3661934    W0133-1675286  New

Qty:
$20.04
SKF Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New Process Transfer Case 241Exc.Heavy Duty
Brand: SKF
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2001 - Dodge Ram 2500 Automatic
Mopar
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Differential Pinion Seal Mopar

P311-537E444    W0133-1913686  New

Qty:
$29.95
Mopar Differential Pinion Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • From 02/27/01
Brand: Mopar
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Dodge Ram 2500
Mopar
2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Differential Pinion Seal Mopar

P311-537E444    W0133-1913686  New

Qty:
$29.95
Mopar Differential Pinion Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Dana Model 70 Axle
Brand: Mopar
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Dodge Ram 2500
Mopar
2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Differential Pinion Seal Mopar

P311-537E444    W0133-1913686  New

Qty:
$29.95
Mopar Differential Pinion Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Dodge Ram 2500
SKF
2009 Dodge Ram 2500 Differential Pinion Seal SKF

P311-4224E63    W0133-1677467  New

Qty:
$17.84
SKF Differential Pinion Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: SKF
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Dodge Ram 2500

Showing 1 - 10 of 28,106 Products.


Latest Dodge Ram 2500 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

A/C port on 2006 dodge ram 2500

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From jkomeagher on A/C port on 2006 dodge ram 2500

Where is the air conditioner port on a 2006 dodge ram 2500??
Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Which one?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

More and more vehicles only have a LP port and if you can't find it this stuff isn't for you IMO,

T

2006 dodge ram 2500 cannot get dash out.

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From rhersh on 2006 dodge ram 2500 cannot get dash out.

06 dodge ram 2500 Trying to remove dash to repair heater. Seems like dash is still attached in the top center. Do I need to remove the metal tubing frame to get the dash out?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, it will come out all in one piece. There are a series of bolts across the top at the windshield and a couple more at the center at the floor. There are also 3 bolts above the steering column that you access after dropping the column.

Response From rhersh

Thanks for the info! it helped, I now have the dash loose but I cannot find the airbag control module. I have the Haynes and the chilton manuals but where they say it is, it is not there and I do not want to pull the dash out with out this disconected. They say it is under the cup holder and ash tray but no luck. Again thank's for your help.

Response From Hammer Time

As long as the battery has been disconnected for at least 30 minutes you shouldn't have to worry about that.

Response From rhersh

Ok! Thanks so much for your help, it has made this alot easier. Thanks again.

Response From re-tired


NOTE The HVAC housing must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled for service of the A/C evaporator, evaporator temperature sensor, mode-air and blend-air doors.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  3. Recover the refrigerant from the A/C system.
  4. Drain the engine cooling system.
  5. Disconnect the A/C liquid line and the A/C accumulator from the A/C evaporator.
  6. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
  7. Remove the powertrain control module (PCM) to gain access to the two nuts that secure the HVAC housing to the engine compartment side of the dash panel and remove the nuts.
  8. On Mega Cab models, remove the floor console duct.
  9. Remove the front seat assembly.
  10. Remove the left a-pillar trim.
  11. Disconnect the headliner wire harness connector located at the a-pillar.
  12. Remove the instrument panel top cover.
  13. Remove the left cowl trim panel.
  14. Remove the steering column.
  15. Remove the two bolts that secure the steering column support bracket to the instrument panel.
  16. Remove the park brake release handle actuator rod.
  17. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector located above the brake pedal from the bulkhead wire harness connector.
  18. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, from the notch on the bottom, remove the left instrument panel side cover.
  19. Remove the three bolts that secure the left side of the instrument panel to the dash panel.
  20. Remove the air bag control module cover, if equipped.
  21. Disconnect the air bag control module electrical connector.
  22. Remove the two bolts that secure the instrument panel to the center of the floor panel.
  23. Remove the right cowl trim cover.
  24. Disconnect the two instrument panel wire harness connectors from the two body wire harness connectors located on the right side of the cowl panel.
  25. Disconnect the antenna coaxial cable connector from the radio coaxial cable connector located on the right side of the cowl panel.
  26. Remove the one bolt that secures the instrument panel to the HVAC housing below the glove box opening.
  27. Remove the right a-pillar trim.
  28. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, from the notch on the bottom, remove the right instrument panel side cover from the instrument panel.
  29. Remove the three bolts that secure the right side instrument panel bracket to the dash panel.
  30. Remove the four screws that secure the instrument panel to the top of the cowl panel.
  31. Remove the two bolts that secure the instrument panel to the top of the cowl panel
  32. Pull back the driver's side carpet as necessary to pull the air bag module harness out from under the carpet.
  33. With the help of an assistant, lift the instrument panel up and off of the cowl panel and remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
  34. If required, remove the four plastic screws inserts from the top of the cowl panel.
  35. Remove the bolt that secures the HVAC housing to the floor bracket.
  36. Remove the two nuts that secure the HVAC housing to the passenger compartment side of the dash panel.
  37. Pull the HVAC housing assembly rearward and remove the housing assembly from the passenger compartment.
  38. If required, remove the fresh air inlet from the dash panel.
  39. Remove the foam seal from the heater core tubes.
  40. If equipped with the dual zone heating-A/C system, remove the linkage rod (4) to gain access to the heater core.
  41. Remove the two screws that secure the heater core tube bracket to the HVAC housing and remove the bracket.
  42. Carefully pull the heater core out of the front of the HVAC housing.
  43. Inspect all foam seals and replace as required.


    Fig. Heater core view


To install:
  1. Carefully install the heater core into the front of the HVAC housing.
  2. Position the heater core tube bracket onto the HVAC housing.
  3. Install the two screws (1) that secure the heater core bracket to the HVAC housing. Tighten the screws to 10 in. lbs. (1.1 Nm)
  4. If equipped with the dual zone heating and A/C system, install the linkage rod.
  5. Install the foam seal onto the heater core tubes.
    NOTE If the heater core is being replaced, flush the cooling system.
  6. If removed, install the fresh air inlet onto the dash panel
  7. Position the HVAC housing assembly into the passenger compartment with the mounting studs and the condensate drain tube in their proper locations in the dash panel.
  8. Install the two nuts that secure the HVAC housing to the passenger compartment side of the dash panel. Tighten the nuts to 60 in. lbs. (68 Nm).
  9. Install the bolt that secures the HVAC housing to the floor bracket. Tighten the bolt to 60 in. lbs. (68 Nm).
  10. If removed, install the four plastic screw inserts into the top of the cowl panel.
  11. With the help of an assistant, position the instrument panel into the vehicle and install the right side guide pin and the left side guide hook to the sides of the cowl panel.
  12. Install the two bolts that secure the instrument panel to the top of the cowl panel
  13. Tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  14. Install the four screws that secure the instrument panel to the top of the cowl panel.
  15. Tighten the screws to 20 in. lbs. (2 Nm).
  16. Install the three bolts that secure the right side instrument panel bracket to the cowl panel.
  17. Tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  18. Position the air bag module harness under the carpet and position the carpet back.
  19. Install the right a-pillar trim.
  20. Install the two bolts that secure the instrument panel to the center of the floor panel
  21. Tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  22. Connect the air bag control module electrical connector.
  23. Install the air bag control module cover, if equipped.
  24. Install the floor console, if equipped.
  25. Install the three bolts that secure the left side of the instrument panel to the dash panel.
  26. Tighten the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  27. Install the left cowl trim panel.
  28. Connect the instrument panel wire harness connector located above the brake pedal to the bulkhead wire harness connector.
  29. Install the park brake release handle actuator rod.
  30. Install the two bolts that secure the steering column support bracket to the instrument panel.
  31. Tighten the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  32. Install the steering column.
  33. Install the left cowl trim cover.
  34. Install the left instrument panel side cover.
  35. Connect the headliner wire harness connector located at the a-pillar.
  36. Install the instrument panel top cover.
  37. Install the left a-pillar trim.
  38. Install the front seat assembly.
  39. On Mega Cab models, install the floor console duct.
  40. Install the two nuts (3) that secure the HVAC housing (1) to the engine compartment side of the dash panel. Tighten the nuts to 60 in. lbs. (6.8 Nm).
  41. Install the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
  42. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core tubes.
  43. Connect the A/C liquid line and the A/C accumulator to the A/C evaporator.
  44. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  45. Refill the engine cooling system.
  46. Evacuate the A/C system.
  47. Charge the A/C system.

Location of oil pressure sender 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Diesel

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From bowldidley on Location of oil pressure sender 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Diesel

Could someone please give me the location of the oil pressure sender on a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel. Having Trouble locating it and think it's the problem. Gauge reads 0 oil pressure - changed oil - started it up and shut it down - checked oil filter - plenty of oil getting to the filter. Am I on the right track and if so need to know where to locate
the sender>

Please

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I shouldn't have even replied to this as I'm not sure but this looks real important so I'll suggest some places. The sender switch is probably located near the oil filter and may require a special tool to remove it. If a single wire it would likely be that the switch post is direct ground or dead open with engine off and is like a resistor as oil pressure builds up. Works kind of like a dimmer switch.

I think it would be more likely that wiring is pulled apart, broken or chaffed somewhere. If multiple wires use all caution as then it could be a direct line of info for the computer. As early as 1970 some cars shut the engine down if the switch was broken or read zero pressure,

T

Response From bowldidley

Tom,

Just wanted to say thankyou very much for responding. Yes, this is very
important. I recently got divorced and I am on my own. I am fair at some
mechanics but I don't know this diesel very good. Trying to learn. I have
looked and looked but because I can't find a picture of this sender I kinda
am lost. So thankyou for your response. It is very much appreciated, more than you know.

Pam

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

See it this picture helps you.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Mr. W2O - that's perfect and so glad you jumped in. If that was my own vehicle I would freak till I figured that out. That diag should do the trick,

T

Went through 3 throwout bearings in 1 month/ 2003 Dodge Ram 2500

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From gr8white on Went through 3 throwout bearings in 1 month/ 2003 Dodge Ram 2500

My throw out bearing went in my 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 manual long bed 2 wheel drive. I had it replaced by a friend and that one went in the next 200 miles. I then replaced it with another and that one went in 40 miles. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? It is killing me financially!

Response From Discretesignals

Engine size? Hydraulic clutch system is going to take up the free play

What happened to the original clutch release bearing? Was a clutch job done on this?

Response From gr8white

Engine size? Hydraulic clutch system is going to take up the free play

What happened to the original clutch release bearing? Was a clutch job done on this?

This is a 5.7 Liter Hemi. I am pulling a 13k Lb 5th wheel across the country. I bought the truck at a dealership a year ago and they replaced the tranny with a Junk Yard tranny. almost 1 year later the throw out bearing went. 3 weeks ago myself and a friend put in a high performance clutch kit with a new throwout bearing and all. That throwout bearing went in 2 weeks. Friday night we ripped the tranny apart again and put in a new throwout bearing. None of these parts were OEM which may have been a mistake. 40 miles after putting the new bearing in it went again. Im going broke here and dont know what to do.

Response From Discretesignals

Could be installation error, the front bearing support is worn out causing the bearing to bind or cock, and/or the aftermarket performance clutch system may have caused a difference in tolerances that is putting too much load on the bearing which results in it overheating. I'd say go back to the OEM set up and be sure to follow the manufacture's service procedures.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Something is all wrong IMO.
/
OK - Used trans when you bought it lasted a year for the record. Nothing since is lasting apparently so ask what type of failure do you find with the release bearing? Noise and a roughness when pressure applied then feel that when it's in your hands to replace it?
Not sure I understand the NO FREE PLAY thing/comment. None are supposed to "ride" on pressure plate and if it did I still can't see why it would wear out the bearing so fast - 200 miles then 40 miles!
If you did "ride" the clutch and said not I would think clutch disc itself would take the hit and wear or if it can "self ride" by lack of free play. Not certain but when motor mounts allow too much motion (said quite a load pulled) some will lose that free play during load times which is why it's there is less free play under load.


OK: It's not behaving and think somehow super high heat or perhaps wobble of trans input shaft to pilot bearing is wildly off/worn or improper fit somehow by used trans?
Release bearing really isn't doing a thing when pedal isn't pressed or shouldn't be.
Didn't see any mention of machining flywheel - if worn from slipping would think the clutch disc would show heat damage from slipping more than the bearing.
There has to be some mis-match of parts or improper installation none I can think of would cause the bearing to fail so fast without some wild bad feel right away when put back together.


1. I wouldn't have use some HP clutch and consider going back to OE
2. Measure pilot bearing I.D. and O.D. of trans input shaft. Usually a smear of grease used for those or noise possible?
3. Evidence of the high heat if so?
4. Motor and trans support mounts checked.


Has to be some improper installation or part issue IMO for this trouble so fast. May be the wrong used trans from back when causing something but can't think of how that worked for a year?


My own observations with clutch issues is usually tech allowing trans to hang on input shaft before snugging up trans or some a mess with oil fast from like a rear main seal of engine soaking friction parts badly.


Unless just inferior parts this isn't adding up too well yet to me,


T

Response From Discretesignals


Not sure I understand the NO FREE PLAY thing/comment. None are supposed to "ride" on pressure plate and if it did I still can't see why it would wear out the bearing so fast - 200 miles then 40 miles!

I don't think that is entirely true. When you install a slave cylinder its plunger is compressed against the fork as you put it on. And if you take it back off the plunger extends due to internal spring pressure. The pressure is pushing the bearing against the pressure plate fingers.

The bearings they use today are designed to be constantly running. The hydraulic system takes up the freeplay as the clutch wears and there is slight preload put on the bearing as it is touching the pressure plate fingers. Vehicles with manual linkage and cables have adjustment you can make to adjust the freeplay that still puts the bearing into a preloaded state against the pressure plate.

Infact, sometimes chirping sounds with the clutch pedal out while the engine is running are caused by a faulty slave cylinder.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I get the concept DS with ability for no play much like disc brake pistons close and do almost to actually touch but no real force to make it fail like this? In that case the brake would nudge or back off only enough via a square "O" ring if you will torqueing ever so little and returning.


So - What makes a bearing fail? To me, overloaded, heat enough to lose its "hardened" properties. Bad to begin with in the cards too. Does or is it able to slide on input shaft? IDK - I'd think you'd notice a problem instantly if conditions harsh enough to fail so fast.
Guess I'd have to see what happened to what parts AFTER the failure. Something tells me there was something wrong back when a junkyard trans was used?


More questions than answers for this at this point, T

Response From Discretesignals

Without being there to see what state everything was in when the bearing was installed or to even see how the bearing failed, your guess is good as mine, Tom.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm running out of idea on this. Now some questions:


*Who is declaring this is a release bearing problem at all?
*Once said a flywheel could make one go bad? After a year??
*Once in your hands there shouldn't be any question if the bearing is bad or not and if not sure it might take another opinion on this.


What and when does this express symptoms such as just when clutch pedal pushed or other times too? If you or friend have left this trans hanging while fastening it up it just might have harmed input shaft to this trans.


All guesses that I think would be clear if this was in front of any of us.


One more - I'm really taken with a 40 mile failure like this. No joke, only see this and most with bearing that are made in China. Not blaming a place just that the reputation of their bearings wherever used lacks sadly. When duplicate real issues happen with a part when there's no other good reason choose another brand or even pay for a dealer part,


Tom

Response From Hammer Time

Does your clutch pedal have a couple inches of free play at the top?

You don't drive with your foot resting on it do you?

Response From gr8white

Hi,

I dont leave my foot on the clutch. There is no play at the top. Someone said that if the flywheel isnt torqued correctly that it can cause the throwout bearing to go bad quick. But I have been through 2 bearings in the last few weeks.

Response From Hammer Time

There isn't supposed to be any contact with the throw out bearing when your foot is off the clutch but if you have no free play, something is wrong, possibly an adjustment.

2003 dodge ram 2500

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From dood on 2003 dodge ram 2500

5.7L hemi. really rough idle. all new coils and plugs.

I heard a vacuum leak can cause a rough idle, my steal vacuum line from tank to evap canister is rusted out. will this cause truck to idle bad?

Response From Discretesignals

There is a vacuum line that goes to the leak detection pump. The lines from the canister to the tank are vapor lines. Normally a vapor line problem won't cause an engine problem, but the vacuum line to the leak detection pump could cause a problem. Fix the line and see if the problem goes away.

I am sure the check engine light is on, but are there any other codes besides the one(s) for the EVAP system?

Response From C0nfused

its throwing a "random misfire" and a "bank1 02 sensor high voltage." the idle spikes from 500 about to stall to 1200. i saw what could cause random misfire so i replaced all 8 coils and plugs, battery is good so the only thing left is a vacuum leak, a tleast thats what was recommended.

Response From Discretesignals

Well, you should repair the EVAP line, which ever it is. Then you may need to find a shop that has a smoke machine to find any other vacuum leaks.

Response From C0nfused

does the old carb spray trick still work? spraying over lines and see if engine revs? or will that damage something.



off topic, how is me calling someone with bad advice a "backyard mechanic" a banable offense? or does that offend the little ones around here.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Creating alternate user names after being banned is also a ban-able offense.

Response From Discretesignals

The carb spray trick does work, but since the idle speed is controlled by the PCM, it can compensate. I believe on the Dodge you can unplug the idle speed motor, so the PCM can't adjust the idle speed. Makes determining when you hit a leak, easier. Some leaks may be hard to get to with a can of spray. You also run the chance of the stuff catching on fire when it gets on something hot. I have found the smoke machine makes finding vacuum leaks so much easier because the engine isn't running and blowing air all over the place and it is visually picked up.


A lot of people on here devote a lot of time trying to help other people. People do get frustrated because they want to help someone, but there isn't enough information to go on some of the time. It's difficult working with DIY because they might not know the lingo or have the tools or knowledge on how to troubleshoot some of these problems. With so many people coming and going there is going to be clashes every once in a while. Some of the people on here are professional technicians and shop owners and take offense to being called backyard mechanics. That's like a slap in the face.

Response From Discretesignals

You can also try HT's favorite, "Scotty Kilmer's method of finding a vacuum leak with a cigar". LOL sorry it's Friday and happy to be able to sleep in tomorrow morning