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Cardone
1972 Lincoln Mark IV Distributor Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Point Type)

P311-5872687    30-2813  Remanufactured

D3VY12127A , D30F12127FA , D1ZF12127DA , D3ZF12127GA , D1ZF12127BA , D3ZF12127CA , D5ZE12127NA , D3AF12127BA , D1ZF12127GA , D27F12127GA , D5ZE12127RA , D3OF12127GA , D2VF12127AA , D0OF12127U , D3VF12127AA , D3HF12127DA , D2VF12127BA , D1ZF12127FA , D00F12127U , D2MF12127GA , D00Z12127U , D10F12127PA , D1OF12127PA , D3OF12127XA , D3VF12127CA , D30F12127XA , D1VF12127AA , D5ZE12127GA , D0AF12127Z , D3AF12127GA , D2SF12127EA , D3MY12127G , D30F12127GA , D3OF12127FA , D3TF12127SA , D0VF12127B , C8VF12127A , D3MF12127GA

Qty:
$20.70 $52.91
Cardone Distributor
  • Remanufactured Point-Type Distributor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Point Type)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Type: Points
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Points And Condensers Installed Where Applicable
      • All Electronic Module Components Are 100% Computer Tested To Ensure Full Functionality
      • Automated Test Equipment Verifies Signal Strength, Correct Polarity Of Wire Harness, Air Gap, Crank Reluctor Tooth Size, As Well As Ignition Coil And Pickup Performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • O.e. Components With Consistently High Failure Rates Are 100% Replaced Or Repaired To Meet Or Exceed O.e. Performance
      • Precise Machining Tolerances Prevent Oil Leakage, Poor Timing, Setting Of The "check Engine" Light, And Premature Failure
      • Remanufactured Under Stringent Quality Standards To Ensure Product Reliability
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Distributors provide reliable performance at the best price. Installing an A1 Distributor on your vehicle will ensure that proper voltage is transmitted to the spark plugs in the correct timing pattern so that your vehicle will perform on command.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1972 - Lincoln Mark IV
Cardone
1978 Lincoln Versailles Distributor Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)

P311-3D0D658    30-2899  Remanufactured

E4ZZ12127D , D8TE12127BA , D6TE12127KA , D9TE12127AHA , D5TE12127SA , D40E12127GA , D4TE12127VA , D9UE12127LA , D4OE12127GA , D4YE12127CA , E1BE12127BA , E3TZ12127Z , E0AZ12127F , E1SE12127FA , D6TE12127CA , E0AE12127FA , D4TE12127LA , D9AE12127ZA , E0AZ12127A , D6DE12127JA , D6TE12127JA , D6ZE12127AA , D5TE12127TA , D5DE12127ZA , D4UE12127FA , D5DE12127AFA , E1BE12127DA , D4UE12127CA , D5HE12127CA , E5ZE12127BA , D9AE12127AEA , D5TE12127ALA , D4TE12127PA , D4UE12127HA , E1SE12127DA , D4DE12127CA , D4DE12127MA , D8TE12127UA , D5DE12127NA , D9BE12127FA , E5TZ12127E , D5DE12127AGA , D4BE12127FA , E4ZE12127DA

Qty:
$7.20 $58.50
Cardone Distributor
  • Remanufactured Electronic Distributor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Type: Magnetic Coil
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Points And Condensers Installed Where Applicable
      • All Electronic Module Components Are 100% Computer Tested To Ensure Full Functionality
      • Automated Test Equipment Verifies Signal Strength, Correct Polarity Of Wire Harness, Air Gap, Crank Reluctor Tooth Size, As Well As Ignition Coil And Pickup Performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • O.e. Components With Consistently High Failure Rates Are 100% Replaced Or Repaired To Meet Or Exceed O.e. Performance
      • Precise Machining Tolerances Prevent Oil Leakage, Poor Timing, Setting Of The "check Engine" Light, And Premature Failure
      • Remanufactured Under Stringent Quality Standards To Ensure Product Reliability
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Distributors provide reliable performance at the best price. Installing an A1 Distributor on your vehicle will ensure that proper voltage is transmitted to the spark plugs in the correct timing pattern so that your vehicle will perform on command.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1978 - Lincoln Versailles
Cardone
1987 Lincoln Continental Distributor 8 Cyl 5.0L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)

P311-3D23270    30-2892MA  Remanufactured

E6SE12127EA , E6SZ12127E , E6AE12127DA , E6AZ12127D

Qty:
$35.10 $73.87
Cardone Distributor
  • Remanufactured Electronic Distributor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Type: Hall Effect
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Points And Condensers Installed Where Applicable
      • All Electronic Module Components Are 100% Computer Tested To Ensure Full Functionality
      • Automated Test Equipment Verifies Signal Strength, Correct Polarity Of Wire Harness, Air Gap, Crank Reluctor Tooth Size, As Well As Ignition Coil And Pickup Performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • O.e. Components With Consistently High Failure Rates Are 100% Replaced Or Repaired To Meet Or Exceed O.e. Performance
      • Precise Machining Tolerances Prevent Oil Leakage, Poor Timing, Setting Of The "check Engine" Light, And Premature Failure
      • Remanufactured Under Stringent Quality Standards To Ensure Product Reliability
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Distributors provide reliable performance at the best price. Installing an A1 Distributor on your vehicle will ensure that proper voltage is transmitted to the spark plugs in the correct timing pattern so that your vehicle will perform on command.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Lincoln Continental V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Cardone
1986 Lincoln Mark VII Distributor Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)

P311-024D2E4    30-2880MA  Remanufactured

E5TE12127EA , E5TZ12127E , E5TE12127AA , E5TZ12127A

Qty:
$35.10 $79.56
Cardone Distributor
  • Remanufactured Electronic Distributor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Type: Hall Effect
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Points And Condensers Installed Where Applicable
      • All Electronic Module Components Are 100% Computer Tested To Ensure Full Functionality
      • Automated Test Equipment Verifies Signal Strength, Correct Polarity Of Wire Harness, Air Gap, Crank Reluctor Tooth Size, As Well As Ignition Coil And Pickup Performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • O.e. Components With Consistently High Failure Rates Are 100% Replaced Or Repaired To Meet Or Exceed O.e. Performance
      • Precise Machining Tolerances Prevent Oil Leakage, Poor Timing, Setting Of The "check Engine" Light, And Premature Failure
      • Remanufactured Under Stringent Quality Standards To Ensure Product Reliability
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Distributors provide reliable performance at the best price. Installing an A1 Distributor on your vehicle will ensure that proper voltage is transmitted to the spark plugs in the correct timing pattern so that your vehicle will perform on command.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Lincoln Mark VII
Cardone
1986 Lincoln Town Car Distributor Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)

P311-1C2D379    30-2892  Remanufactured

E6AE12127DA , E6AZ12127D , E7TZ12127E , E6SE12127EA , E6SZ12127E

Qty:
$76.14
Cardone Distributor
  • Remanufactured Electronic Distributor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Type: Hall Effect
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Points And Condensers Installed Where Applicable
      • All Electronic Module Components Are 100% Computer Tested To Ensure Full Functionality
      • Automated Test Equipment Verifies Signal Strength, Correct Polarity Of Wire Harness, Air Gap, Crank Reluctor Tooth Size, As Well As Ignition Coil And Pickup Performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • O.e. Components With Consistently High Failure Rates Are 100% Replaced Or Repaired To Meet Or Exceed O.e. Performance
      • Precise Machining Tolerances Prevent Oil Leakage, Poor Timing, Setting Of The "check Engine" Light, And Premature Failure
      • Remanufactured Under Stringent Quality Standards To Ensure Product Reliability
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Distributors provide reliable performance at the best price. Installing an A1 Distributor on your vehicle will ensure that proper voltage is transmitted to the spark plugs in the correct timing pattern so that your vehicle will perform on command.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Lincoln Town Car
Cardone
1986 Lincoln Town Car Distributor Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)

P311-26D7FA4    30-2892MB  Remanufactured

E6AE12127DA , E6SZ12127E , E6AZ12127D , E6SE12127EA

Qty:
$27.90 $97.03
Cardone Distributor
  • Remanufactured Electronic Distributor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Type: Hall Effect
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Points And Condensers Installed Where Applicable
      • All Electronic Module Components Are 100% Computer Tested To Ensure Full Functionality
      • Automated Test Equipment Verifies Signal Strength, Correct Polarity Of Wire Harness, Air Gap, Crank Reluctor Tooth Size, As Well As Ignition Coil And Pickup Performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • O.e. Components With Consistently High Failure Rates Are 100% Replaced Or Repaired To Meet Or Exceed O.e. Performance
      • Precise Machining Tolerances Prevent Oil Leakage, Poor Timing, Setting Of The "check Engine" Light, And Premature Failure
      • Remanufactured Under Stringent Quality Standards To Ensure Product Reliability
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Distributors provide reliable performance at the best price. Installing an A1 Distributor on your vehicle will ensure that proper voltage is transmitted to the spark plugs in the correct timing pattern so that your vehicle will perform on command.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Lincoln Town Car
Cardone
1988 Lincoln Continental Distributor Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)

P311-254050F    30-2688  Remanufactured

E8DE12127AC , E8DE12127AB , E8DZ12127A , E8SE12127AA , E8SZ12127A

Qty:
$63.92
Cardone Distributor
  • Remanufactured Electronic Distributor
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Distributor (Electronic)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Type: Hall Effect
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% New Points And Condensers Installed Where Applicable
      • All Electronic Module Components Are 100% Computer Tested To Ensure Full Functionality
      • Automated Test Equipment Verifies Signal Strength, Correct Polarity Of Wire Harness, Air Gap, Crank Reluctor Tooth Size, As Well As Ignition Coil And Pickup Performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m. Performance
      • O.e. Components With Consistently High Failure Rates Are 100% Replaced Or Repaired To Meet Or Exceed O.e. Performance
      • Precise Machining Tolerances Prevent Oil Leakage, Poor Timing, Setting Of The "check Engine" Light, And Premature Failure
      • Remanufactured Under Stringent Quality Standards To Ensure Product Reliability
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Distributors provide reliable performance at the best price. Installing an A1 Distributor on your vehicle will ensure that proper voltage is transmitted to the spark plugs in the correct timing pattern so that your vehicle will perform on command.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Lincoln Continental
Spectra Premium
1989 Lincoln Town Car Distributor Spectra Premium

P311-16CFFE3    W0133-1699855  New

Qty:
$145.29
Spectra Premium Distributor
Brand: Spectra Premium
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1989 - Lincoln Town Car Signature

Latest Lincoln Repair and Distributor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

lincoln town car that just dies

Showing 4 out of 6 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From booboosissy on lincoln town car that just dies

i have a 1986 lincoln town car that just dies and wont restart for a while it has fuel pressure and spark but it just dies no codes or any thing to tell me whats wrong please help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

How are you determining that it has spark and fuel? Fuel pump should buzz and shut off when pressure is up to snuff - if it just stays on the pressure is too low.

The common items in these cars are the ign module on the distributor and the fuel pump relay which is unmarked but has the green harness connector and hides under a plastic shield on driver's side inner fender. You can just bend the whole bracket up or remove it with 5/16 or 8mm socket. They are fastened in in a funky way so use a small flat head screwdriver and remember many connector bails on Fords you push to release where they look like you would lift to release,

T

Response From booboosissy

it does do this pump comes on then goes off module brand new im looking at tps think it is geting hot and shutting off or coolant sensor do you think this could be right

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Let's face it this car is about 22 years old and is an open book of possible problems. I own three of these right now myself and have been thru about anything these cars can throw at you and get surprised sometimes.

I have not had one yet that didn't run because of a TPS or Temp sensor. Run poorly perhaps but still ran. Neither are that expensive and though I don't like to just toss out parts at random at this point it might be worth the try.

Another thing that has never happened with these engines (may just be my own rare experience) is that they have not eaten or jumped timing chains even with nasty high miles.

A real possibility is water in the fuel. The fuel filter should stop it but who knows? I'd just up and replace that fuel filter with the best one you can find. Add some isopropyl alcohol type dry gas and start doing that with some regularity as water is in there from just condensation over the years and this type of dry gas claims to mix with water and allow it to be burned thru the system thus eliminating it. It would be nice to rule this out.

These cars are fuel fussy. They don't seem to respond well to priming or starting fluid and I don't really know why. They also have a feature that shuts down the fuel pump intended to do that in case of a collision the fuel wouldn't just keep pouring out of a smashed car. The reset for this is in the trunk with a red button near left side trunk hinge. If just a two wire connector it can be jumped and defeat the system but NEVER leave one that way. Just for testing only and I don't really think that's it anyway right now.

I'm just tossing out thoughts right now but consider the EGR valve too. If it leaked badly or stuck it could stop the show. They are a bit expensive to replace without good knowledge that they are in fact bad. So far I have had one go bad but not stop the car from running. I have had mixed luck at cleaning out the pintle in them but that was just for small imperfections and not a no-start problem.

Word has it but hasn't done it to me is the pick up coil in distributor can fail - none yet with me and I would expect NO spark if it failed.

Things that don't like heat are.... coil, ign module. The relays in the mentioned box can partially fail. I believe the one with brown connector can stop the car or make it run poorly. They make universal replacement relays I think part # is AR-242 that will fit any of them. Origs will only fit by color coded skirting but I believe they are the same spec relay otherwise and don't know why they aren't interchangable as newer Fords did and many have been fixed with emergency calls to me from broken down customers telling them to put the clearly marked A/C relay in one of two others to get them home and worked all but one time when for some unknown reason a car needed two relays at once for still an unkown reason.

Keep at it. If this car is in decent shape you can get lots of life out of these. Rust has been the killer of all of them before mechanical problems for me,

T

Response From booboosissy

i rebuilt distibator pick up coil and module this fix the problem i guess there is a curcuit breaker in module that was poping and resetting itself because the pick up coil was cracked thanks for your help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for posting the fix. It was my parts guys that said they had a run of problems like that and what you did fixed it. I carry a whole spare distributor that is known working as it can be replaced on the side of the road with just the 1/2 inch bolt in little time and I can make it back to home/shop to finish the repair but of course since I carry one it has never happened,

T

Distributor Testing

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Distributor Testing

Is there any way to test a used distributor? My 14 year old son is looking to buy one. He is rebuilding a 67 Mustang. Time is running out!
Please help--thanks, Debbie

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bet nobody has the machine for those by now. You can just look at those and have a good idea. If the bushings for the shaft are ok as well as the cam for the points it will be good to go and work with from there,

T

Response From Guest

Thank you for taking the time to reply. This distributor does not have points, it is electronic. Mallory Comp9000 or Unilite are the two he's looking at currently.
Thanks! Debbie

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

These are no doubt capacitor discharge type that eliminate the need for points. Why are you changing over the original distributor? Despite all claims of incredible power and fuel savings there isn't much advatage for this engine without changing the whole engine to something else completely. I yanked all that garbage off a 69 Lincoln and it hadn't run so well in years after getting rid of stuff before its time.

What's the objective here? More performance? Changing the distributor is barking up the wrong tree for the 60s as orig was just fine. Only issue with points is periodic checking, adjustment and or replacement for about five bucks,

T

1976 lincoln help

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From booyah1 on 1976 lincoln help

Hope someone can help me. I bought a 1976 Lincoln continental from an individual who bought it from original owner. Car had been sitting in garage for 20 yrs. Has less than 38k miles on car. Has 460 ford engine. The person I bought it from claimed to had it running to drive it to his house, then had dropped the tank and cleaned it, installed new plugs and plug wires, fuel pump, distributor, cap, rotor button. For what ever reason he could not get it running again. I believed him. My mistake. No way car was ever running. Has an electrical problem we have not figured out yet. I am not a mechanic so what I am explaining is the best way I know how. Anyway, we used a piggyback wire under the hood to bypass something to try too get it to even fire. Would not fire with just turning key on. We pumped out the tank and put 5 gallons of hi-test gas and a can of Seafoam in tank. Did get car running but, it is missing badly, no power. It seems as only 2 plugs are firing, as I could remove 6 plug wires and could tell no difference. Went and bought new plugs. Did not help. The next to the last plug on each side were the only plugs that made a difference if plug wire was removed.Not sure what to do now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

We pumped out the tank and put 5 gallons of hi-test gas and a can of Seafoam in tank

That's a bit much

I am not a mechanic so what I am explaining is the best way I know how. Anyway, we used a piggyback wire under the hood to bypass something to try too get it to even fire.

Well, that tells me a whole lot {sarcasm}


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From booyah1

Compression check was what we were going to do next as did not know what else to check. We did get it running, just seems to be on 2 cylinders. Question I had is why do only 2 cylinders seem to be working? Wouldn't think 6 cylinders lost compression. What should I be looking for to be problem? thanks

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

This isn't a Harley, it isn't going to run on two cylinders. To answer your question about why it may be doing this, you need to do the tests mentioned by the others. You have a 37 year old engine with an unknown history. Until you know for sure the engine internals are in good enough shape by verifying the compression there isn't any point in looking for anything else. You need to systematically test and verify components to isolate where the issue lies.

Since you are doubting the last guy actually cleaned out the tank, you can also try unhooking the suction line off the fuel pump and running a piece of hose into your gas can. See if it runs off of that. If it does you have a bunch of junk in the tank and lines.

With a car this old, anything can be suspect, and yes you can lose compression on 6 cylinders. Time to test it to see whats going on, then get back to us with the results to see what needs to be done next.

Response From Discretesignals


If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.


Would definitely start there first. Make sure your battery is fully charged, the ignition system is disabled, and the throttle is wide open when you do your compression test.

How do I keep a garage dryer?

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From aggressivemale on How do I keep a garage dryer?

Hi everyone,

I bought one of those cheap portable garages, at least it keeps my car from being rained on directly but the problem is condensation drips from the roof and water comes up through the ground. If I look under my car after it has rained I will see little droplets even though I havn't driven the car anywhere. Someone told me to get a large plastic sheet to put on the ground but I'm not sure where to find this at the home depot. Anyone have advice? Thanks

Response From aggressivemale

I did what you suggested Tom and got a tarp to put on the floor. I bought one much bigger than the floor and cut it to size so I wouldn't have to overlap anything. I have a new problem now, I accidentally did a little tiny burnout and it ripped a hole under the tire, that teaches me I have to be very gentle I guess. You think I should just stuff a piece of tarp under that hole or do you think I should glue it in? Do you think if I drive the car everyday I should put something else over it? If so what? Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

From there I would go to something like plywood but if you plan on too much money with this a real garage would be the way to go, T

Response From aggressivemale

Thanks Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sounds like you have a terrarium going on with this. This is not helping the stored car a bit. If you can't put this on concrete or asphalt, I would try a tarp and that should help as it would tolerate being driven on longer than just plain plastic, T

Response From aggressivemale

Alright I'll do that. THanks. By the way, do you have a 67 fleetwood?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No more Fleetwood. Just a memory. Got into Lincolns and restored a 1969 but the truth is I didn't like the car!! I did sell it of course at a disgusting loss which is about normal but the details are a passion.

Right now I drive around in a 1989 Town Car and own three -- two are mint and I love to drive the beat up old one as if if gets another door ding it would just give it more carachter and people are rude in public parking areas here and elsewhere and just don't respect other cars.

I'd buy a 67 Fleetwood but that would mean intense effort to make a storage place for it and I have too many cars right now, Be well, T

Response From aggressivemale Top Rated Answer

How are the distributors in those lincolns? Any slop? If so you can stop by my house in mendon and take mine for free, I'm trying to get rid of clutter and I don't own a ford anymore.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks! I'm such a jerk I carry a spare whole known good distributor and the timing wrench to replace it on the side of the road if needed.

I'm from Marlborough, MA -- despite the sign off that says MetroWest Boston which it is but the site gets hit from everywhere so I used that as most folks would have a basic idea.

____________________________

Cool beans!! Imagine if I lived in Florida, MA (folks -- there is a town called Florida in Massachusetts!!) Great state and I love it here with all its faults that could happen anywhere, T

2002 Lincoln town car, no. 5 spark plug is misfiring

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Juche on 2002 Lincoln town car, no. 5 spark plug is misfiring

In my 2002 town car, 112k, standard V8 engine, I had the timing chain worked on a couple of months ago. Ever since then I have had problems with the car shaking, accelerating, vibrating, etc. I couldn't figure out what the problem was, I thought it was either a fuel system or an electrical problem.

About 2 weeks ago the check engine light came on, I took it to a shop and it was the no. 5 spark plug was misfiring. So the guy at the shop erased the code. I had the 100k maintenance done on my car including replacing all 8 spark plugs. That didn't help, and the light came back on. I had it read at autozone and same thing, no. 5 spark plug.

The ignition coil connector clip that connects to the ignition coil had a problem, a latch that is supposed to hold it on was broken. So I bought a new one of those and had it spliced to the wires, then hooked to the ignition coil. Doing that improved but didn't fix the situation.

It used to be the check engine light was on or blinking constantly. Since I had that done a couple days ago the light has only blinked once (it blinked 5 times). The car sometimes idles and accelerates smoothly, sometimes it shakes. When the light came on I was driving at 55 and the car started shaking more than normal.

So what do I do now? I have considered buying a new ignition coil. I have also thought about replacing the vacuum tubes for the fuel injector. What else is there to look at? I hope the fuel injector itself isn't going bad. My understanding is my model doesn't have a distributor cap and replacing the ignition coil would be my next best move.

Why would this problem not be consistent? It used to be consistently bad until I had the ignition coil connector replaced. Now it is intermittent.

I have already tried fuel system cleaner in the tank, and I've tried water remover in case there was some water in my gas. Neither helped (I think the water remover may have made it worse). When I had my 100k maintenance done the mechanic put sea foam in the vacuum lines, it didn't make a difference.

Response From Hammer Time

You know, doing/diagnosing your own work isn't always the cheaper way to go, especially when you don't know what you're doing. You've turned what would have been a very basic diagnosis by a qualified tech that most likely would have been free in many shops into something expensive and complicated. This engine is notorious for bad coils which would have been the first thing any knowledgeable tech would have gone to. I don't know what "vacuum tubes for the fuel injector" are supposed but there is no such thing. Replace the coil and pray you haven't ruined your Catalytic Converter by driving it that way.
For future reference, flashing lights on the dashboard generally mean "shut the car off immediately".

Response From Juche

You know, doing/diagnosing your own work isn't always the cheaper way to go, especially when you don't know what you're doing. You've turned what would have been a very basic diagnosis by a qualified tech that most likely would have been free in many shops into something expensive and complicated. This engine is notorious for bad coils which would have been the first thing any knowledgeable tech would have gone to. I don't know what "vacuum tubes for the fuel injector" are supposed but there is no such thing. Replace the coil and pray you haven't ruined your Catalytic Converter by driving it that way.
For future reference, flashing lights on the dashboard generally mean "shut the car off immediately".

Close but no. It was the ignition coil and the fuel injector that were going bad.

Replacing the ignition coil connector made the problem about 70% better. The CEL light came on sporadically and the car shook and hesitated, but not consisently.

A mechanic changed out the ignition coil by switching it with no. 7 and found it wasn't sparking as good as it should, so he installed a new ignition coil on no. 5. But that alone didn't fix the problem.

So he also replaced the fuel injector. That seems to have fixed it. I have driven it 250 miles since getting it back from the mechanic and I've had no shaking, hesitating, loss of acceleration, CELs etc. Of course that could come back who knows.

The real question is why would all these physical parts fail for the same cylinder. The coil connector wasn't connecting properly, the ignition coil wasn't sparking as well as it should and the fuel injector seems to have been damaged and it all occurred in the no. 5.

The catalytic converter is fine according to the mechanic.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't believe it ever had a bad injector. I advised it was a bad coil from the beginning and I suspect he just forgot to plug the injector back in when he was playing with the coils. I fix these things all the time and I have changed hundreds of coils and not even one injector. If the guy had any experience in these engines, he would have immediately recognized the bad coil.

Response From Juche

I appreciate the reply. I did have the light read by a mechanic and he told me it was a spark plug misfiring, he erased the code and told me there was no harm in driving it. I did not know a blinking CEL was different from a regular CEL. I hope I haven't damaged the car. I will get the ignition coil replaced. The car has been at a mechanics for the last couple days as they try to figure out what is wrong. Ever since the ignition coil connector was replaced this problem is sporadic instead of constant.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If this guy couldn't recognize a bad COP on a Ford and then tells you it's OK to drive, I wouldn't call him a mechanic. This is basic stuff. The flashing check engine light means that the misfire is severe enough to damage the Converter and shouldn't be driven.