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Best Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Distributor Caps

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We stock Distributor Cap parts for most Oldsmobile models, including Bravada, Calais, Custom Cruiser, Cutlass, Cutlass Calais, Cutlass Ciera, Cutlass Cruiser, Cutlass Salon, Cutlass Supreme, F85, Firenza, Omega, Starfire, 98, 442.

Delphi
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Distributor Cap 6 Cyl 4.3L Delphi

P311-108159D    DC20009  New

8104935770 , 174-7053 , RR253SB , 5D1078 , 10452458 , DR-475 , 8-10493-577-0 , RR253 , 8-10452-458-0 , C280 , 10458112 , 1459 , 8104524580 , DR475 , DR79W , D328A , DR978

Qty:
$33.96
Delphi Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Cap Contacts Material: Zinc Plate
    • Distributor Type: Hvs
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • Package Contents: Distributor Cap
    • Terminal Gender: Female
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Delphi
1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Distributor Cap 8 Cyl 5.7L Delphi

P311-57F9CC1    DC1016  New

DR468 , RR249SB , DR942 , DR79B , RR249 , D303A , DR-468 , 10477841 , C266 , 10496801 , 19056675 , DR79BCS , 5D1059 , 1454

Qty:
$22.74
Delphi Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Cap Contacts Material: Zinc Plate
    • Distributor Type: Hei
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • Package Contents: Cap Unit Only
    • Terminal Gender: Female
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser 7 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Delphi
1986 Oldsmobile Firenza Distributor Cap 6 Cyl 2.8L Delphi

P311-353B300    DC1015  New

DR78C , D314A , 19056674 , DR936 , DR78CCS , RR241 , 5D1054 , 10476273 , NC244 , 10477182 , C244 , RR241SB , 1988001 , 1989797 , 1452 , DR-460 , DR460

Qty:
$12.38
Delphi Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • Distributor Cap Contacts Material: Zinc Plate
    • Distributor Type: Hei
    • Item Grade: Standard Replacement
    • Package Contents: Cap Unit Only
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Oldsmobile Firenza V 6 Cyl 2.8L 173 -
Standard Ignition
1963 Oldsmobile Jetfire Distributor Cap 8 Cyl 3.5L Standard Ignition

P311-3B37BE5    DR-429  New

800062 , J3200192 , 19106458 , 312732 , 3200192 , 800061 , S-12123 , B33708 , C158 , 1949212 , 1942654 , 800063 , 2N7024 , 1969204 , 1932018 , 12338667 , 1971244

Qty:
$15.02
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Distributer Cap
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1963 - Oldsmobile Jetfire V 8 Cyl 3.5L 215 3528
Standard Ignition
1974 Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser Distributor Cap 8 Cyl 7.5L Standard Ignition

P311-3B37BE5    DR-429  New

800062 , J3200192 , 19106458 , 312732 , 3200192 , 800061 , S-12123 , B33708 , C158 , 1949212 , 1942654 , 800063 , 2N7024 , 1969204 , 1932018 , 12338667 , 1971244

Qty:
$15.02
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Breaker Point Ignition Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Distributer Cap
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser V 8 Cyl 7.5L 455 -
Standard Ignition
1966 Oldsmobile F85 Distributor Cap 6 Cyl 4.1L Standard Ignition

P311-5902481    DR-438  New

33765 , 33765T , 3206903 , 1954569 , R11271 , 3204197 , J3206903 , 800057 , J3204197 , 1963556 , 1971324 , C168 , B33765 , 800058 , 147747 , 800060 , J4488091 , 9001156 , 12338669 , 19106457 , 1960810 , 81796 , 4488091

Qty:
$12.05
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Distributer Cap
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1966 - Oldsmobile F85 L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 -
Standard Ignition
1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass Tiara Distributor Cap 8 Cyl 7.5L Standard Ignition

P311-447ACD0    DR-450  New

10457698 , 1974408 , 1842058 , 1875963 , 19106177 , 1694927-C1 , 1118443 , C197 , 19110931 , 1986628 , 1652462

Qty:
$21.88
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Includes Instruction Sheet
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1976 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Tiara V 8 Cyl 7.5L 455 -
Standard Ignition
1974 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Distributor Cap Standard Ignition

P311-447ACD0    DR-450  New

10457698 , 1974408 , 1842058 , 1875963 , 19106177 , 1694927-C1 , 1118443 , C197 , 19110931 , 1986628 , 1652462

Qty:
$21.88
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Electronic Ignition Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Includes Instruction Sheet
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1974 - Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser
Standard Ignition
1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Distributor Cap 6 Cyl 3.8L Standard Ignition

P311-53E6026    DR-452  New

89058245 , 19110930 , 1306488 , 1894979 , 1986627 , C198

Qty:
$24.40
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Includes Instruction Sheet
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais A V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Standard Ignition
1986 Oldsmobile Firenza Distributor Cap 6 Cyl 2.8L Standard Ignition

P311-14FACE4    DR-460  New

10476273 , 1988001 , 10470796 , 134-2528 , 89056807 , 10477182 , C244 , 850484T2 , 3854331 , 1989797

Qty:
$14.04
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Screw Included
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Oldsmobile Firenza V 6 Cyl 2.8L 173 -
Standard Ignition
1991 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Distributor Cap Standard Ignition

P311-4F2A016    DR-468  New

10477841 , C266 , 10457118 , 10477481 , 808483T3 , 10496801 , 3854548-9 , 10470803 , 10474757 , 10475118 , 3854548 , 19166099 , 8-10475-118-0 , 8191660990 , 10476408

Qty:
$27.74
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Distributer Cap
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser
Standard Ignition
1999 Oldsmobile Bravada Distributor Cap Standard Ignition

P311-5E449EC    DR-475  New

10493577 , C280 , 8-10493-577-0 , 888731 , D319A , DR978G , DC20009 , DR978VC , D321A , 1459 , 51-1613 , DR978 , 10452458 , 5D1078A , 8-10477-311-0 , 10477311 , 3-363 , 51-1612 , 174-7053 , D328A , 9-29420 , 5D1078 , 8104524580 , 2-40006 , 3859019-6 , 18-5243 , 3859019 , 24321 , 3A7

Qty:
$39.94
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Method: Screw
    • Cap Attachment Style: Bolt On
    • Coil Terminal Gender: Female
    • Contact Terminal Material: Aluminum
    • Contents: Screw Included
    • Distributor Cap Color: Black
    • Distributor Cap Material: Polypropylene
    • Distributor Vent: No
    • Gaskets Included: No
    • Ignition Rotor Included: No
    • Instructions Included: Yes
    • Screws included: Yes
    • Spark Plug Terminal Gender: Female
    • Spark Plug Terminal Quantity: 7
    • Spark Plug Wires Included: No
    • Terminal Quantity: 7
    • Tower Position: Side
  • High dielectric-strength engineering polymer prevents breakdown or arcing and ensures long life. Solid aluminum terminals ensure superior electrical conductivity. Durable carbon brush resists wear to extend life of distributor cap. Includes mounting clamps with distributor cap for ease of installation.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Standard Ignition
1974 Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser Distributor Cap 8 Cyl 7.5L Standard Ignition

P311-447ACD0    DR-450  New

10457698 , 1974408 , 1842058 , 1875963 , 19106177 , 1694927-C1 , 1118443 , C197 , 19110931 , 1986628 , 1652462

Qty:
$21.88
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Breakerless Ignition Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Includes Instruction Sheet
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser V 8 Cyl 7.5L 455 -
Standard Ignition
1977 Oldsmobile Omega Distributor Cap 6 Cyl 3.8L Standard Ignition

P311-53E6026    DR-452  New

89058245 , 19110930 , 1306488 , 1894979 , 1986627 , C198

Qty:
$24.40
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Even Firing Engine Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Includes Instruction Sheet
    • Distributor Vent: No
  • Standard Blue Streak caps and rotors are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1977 - Oldsmobile Omega V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 -
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Distributor Cap ACDelco

P311-26C4090    W0133-1688553  New

Qty:
$54.00
ACDelco Distributor Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Delphi
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Distributor Cap Delphi

P311-0F6665B    W0133-1688553  New

Qty:
$61.75
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1986 Oldsmobile Firenza Distributor Cap 6 Cyl 2.8L ACDelco

P311-159BA71    W0133-1633689  New

Qty:
$20.38
ACDelco Distributor Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Oldsmobile Firenza V 6 Cyl 2.8L 173 -
ACDelco
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Distributor Cap ACDelco

P311-15BBE1A    W0133-1683015  New

Qty:
$23.85
ACDelco Distributor Cap
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine VIN
1987 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham Y
Delphi
1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Distributor Cap Delphi - Original Equipment

P311-37A7836    W0133-1929948  New

Qty:
$44.90
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Original Equipment
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Distributor Cap ACDelco

P311-2DA5A03    W0133-1929948  New

Qty:
$45.48
ACDelco Distributor Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Distributor Cap Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

oldsmobile trouble

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on oldsmobile trouble

89 oldmosible cutlass ciera
Recently changed oil, put a new valve gasket on, and gunk'd engine. now car is running rought. cruise control isnt working. service engine soon light stays on. what clould it be?

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Sound like the gunk might have got in the distributor cap....remove the cap and dry off and wd40 works in removing some of the moisture too.

98 oldsmobile intrigue cranks but wont start ran out of fuel

Showing 2 out of 32 Posts | Show 30 Hidden Posts
Question From XOtheJUGGALO on 98 oldsmobile intrigue cranks but wont start ran out of fuel

I have a 1998 Oldsmobile intrigue my mother-n-law ran it out of gas i filled it up wouldnt start... replaced fuelpump,fuelfilter (both new not used)and cleaned fueltank out and put fresh fuel and still nothing replaced fuel pump relay,battery and cleaned battery cables and again nothing car has been sitting in my driveway for 4months now and i got to get it running cant sell it cause it was my father's before he passed... ¡¡¡¡ PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Keep battery charged till this chapter is found and fixed.


Do you hear pump prime up at all now? If so check for pressure at fuel rail on engine.


Could be just bad luck but may have fuel and not spark? Try priming throttle body with some fuel or gas, assemble the intake ducts quickly and see if it reacts. Is so it still isn't getting proper fuel delivery and may NOT be the pump but no pulse to injectors or a spark issue to check out.


If no sound from pump see if it gets power. It could be a bad pump? They don't like running dry old or new. Double check your work again too,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I replaced the fuelpump after it was ran dry hasn't started since it ran out of gas replaced the distribiter spark plugs n wires its gettn spark no fuel coming out the fuelrail could it be clogged fuel lines? If so how would i blow them out n ive triple checked my work everything is as needs to be i tryed starting it with starter fluid and gas it backfires runs for 2seconds n dies (dosent always start up even with gas and/or starting fluid)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? It was running fine I guess when it ran out of fuel, right? so why more than the fuel pump now? Well it's been sitting for a few (four) months and you pretty well nailed it that it's lack of fuel if it reacts to starting fluid.


Can you hear the pump? Is it getting power to it thru plug? That stuff not everything you can think of. New sock on pick up I hope and you said you cleaned tank? Why? Was that a problem too or make one now?


Just sitting there isn't doing anything any good now. My guess is the job didn't go properly or a bad pump out of the box so far,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I disconnected the three fuel lines from the motor the one on the back of the fuelrail(closest to the firewall) has plenty of gas coming out of the line. the one connected to the front of the fuelrail (closest to the fuel pressure regular ) has no fuel coming out the line at all same with the line connecting to the Vapor Canister Purge Valve witch also connects to the throttle body also battery has been out of car for a couple months i been reading something about a relearning
 Procedure

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fuel out of a line isn't conclusive - you need to know the pressure and if injectors are working too.


I think the "re-learn" you are thinking about is it may not idle well right away or for some time as it lost adapting to itself if you will to hold the same idle and other adjustments based on where they are in the perimeters of things. I don't think you have anything to worry about in an 1998 vehicle..........


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Ill go rent a fuel pressure gauge today but it wont start and its been sitting without a battery so would it still show pressure? And how would i test the injectors is there a way to test them without a noid light? And thanks again for all the help u are giving me i hate to see the car sit

Response From nickwarner

You will need to put a charged battery in this to test pressure. When you turn the key on, the ECM turns on the fuel pump for 2 seconds to prime the system. After that it waits for a signal from the crank sensor to tell it that the engine is cranking.

You will need a noid light to check injector pulse. Don't worry, they are cheap. Parts store that you are renting them from likely even has a set available for rent.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Ok so ive bought brand new battery AGAIN tested fuel pressure heard the pump prime tested the injectors replaced the fuel lines and still nothing cranks but no start already replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor rechecked fuel pump wires even though i heard it priming everything is A okay but just will not turnover

Response From Hammer Time

You're still not running the tests that you are supposed to.

Just hearing the fuel pump isn't good enough. You have to use a gauge.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I understand what u are saying but i have already done the sparkplug test,injector test and fuel pressure test all tested as they should.. when u say "these functions can only be tested the failure" do u mean i should run the three test while i have someone tryn to start the car?

Response From Discretesignals

replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor

You sure your working on a 98 olds intrigue?

Response From Hammer Time

Yeah, I was going to call crap on that one too. I had forgotten seeing that earlier.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Call it as u may that is ur right as an American im not hear to waste ppls time when they're tryn to help others out i was just restating things ive already replaced along with a few newones i have bank statements of everything i have replaced on this car and the tools i have rented to preform the tests so if you or any others think im just here to waste yalls time plz feel free to not reply... now as for the question on am i sure its a 98 Oldsmobile intrigue yes im very sure my farther purchased the car back n 98 i dont have the title was lost n house fire.. ive got the vin# i will email it to u so u can see for urself its a 98 Oldsmobile intrigue "GL" with a factory 3.8 v6 motor (Buick 3.8 v6) with a factory automatic 3.6 transmission anymore questions about the car plz feel free to ask... To the guy who said i need someone to try n start the car while i preform the test thank you Maybe thats why everything tested as it should cuz i would try n start the car over n over then do the test Thank all who have replied to my post you guys are helping me grately srry i dont know much bout these newer front wheel drive car i personal like n only drive old American muscle cars i have a 88 iroc t-top camaro witch i just preformed an LS3 Swap and have a 67 chevelle ss that im in the process of restoring but back to the main topic i will rerun every test while car is being started thanks again to all of u

Response From Hammer Time

Well, if you are sure about the make of the car, then maybe you could explain how you replaced a distributor on a car that doesn't have one.

Ok so ive bought brand new battery AGAIN tested fuel pressure heard the pump prime tested the injectors replaced the fuel lines and still nothing cranks but no start already replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor rechecked fuel pump wires even though i heard it priming everything is A okay but just will not turnover


What was the fuel pressure?
How did you go about testing fuel injectors?
What's a "low pressure sensor"?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Sport - relax - It still needs fuel, spark, compression and on time just like your 67 Chevelle. All things that make a gas engine run are there just done differently.


Fuel pressure is critical to be in spec. 48-55 PSI at the fuel rail with key on engine off and hold for a good while.


Injectors checked with a noid light. Rent or buy whole set for about $25 bucks.


It reacted back at the first couple posts to starting fluid or priming so rule out spark anything till you know why fuel is NOT being delivered which doesn't mean the pump all the time.


Hey - you may have confused a coil pack with a distributor cap. Nothing turns inside those even out of sight.


Again, same basics as your '67 just done differently and fussy about fuel pressure in spec so post results not that you found fuel coming out a line,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Thank you for ur help i have a nother question ive asked ppl at antozone looked online a cant find nothing bout this part i cricled it in this picture (picture was taken when i replaced fuelpump ) and there is also a box under the car next to the gastank neck where fuel is added witch has a couple hoses running from it to that part i circled could this be something that is wrong with it all thr cars ive worked on ive never see nothing like this (im trying to upload thr photo at the moment

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Srry it wont let me upload any photos...

Response From Hammer Time

Upload them to Photobucket and they supply a link to make them show up here.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Fuel pressure: 53psi
Sorry ive been workn alot haven't really had time to do nothing..
When i checked the fuel pressure (while car was being cranked) it was at 53 the whole time after stopping cranking the car pressure stayed at 53 for maybe 3 minutes before slowly dropping to 0psi (dont get how im getting fuel pressure when no fuel is reaching the engine... )
As for the injectors have not had time to retest them

Sorry for the repeating post as for i thought my post where not being posted

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Srry guys lost my phone but wanted to thank all of you for ur help ive since got the car running the coilpacks i bought from autozone where faulty after receiving new one its now running again thank all of u

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome. I'll close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Response From nickwarner

This really sounds like a crank position sensor here. Check for spark and injector pulse. It is normal to see a noid light or spark tester flash once when the key is first turned on, but that is just the ecm doing a quick self-check of various circuits. Also, when the key is turned on your fuel pump is turned on for 2 seconds. But if your injectors are not firing it will not dispense fuel while cranking so your pressure won't drop. The ECM doesn't turn the fuel pump back on after the 2 second prime until it gets a signal from the crank sensor showing that the engine is being turned over.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Post the dang fuel pressure! Do injectors light up a noid light and must if it responded so that whatever thing isn't part of the problem quite yet as it doesn't start, phart or anything yet, T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

http://s105.photobucket.com/user/XOtheJUGGALO/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

Have any idea what this part is or what it dose?

The fuel pressure was at 53psi while car was bring started when turned key off stayed 53 for 1 to 2 minutes before slowly dropping to 0 i dont get how it has pressure &no fuel goin to motor... as for injectors couldn't make it to autostore intime before they closed will let u know tomorrow

Response From Hammer Time

That is part of our EVAP system and has no effect on performance.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Photo link http://s105.photobucket.com/user/XOtheJUGGALO/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m234/XOtheJUGGALO/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg


Dose this have any major thing to do with the car getting gas to motor or have any idea what it dose


Fuel pressure was at 53psi when car was being started after turning key off pressure stayed at 53 for maybe one to two minutes befor slowly dropping down to zero... i do not get how it has fuel pressure when no fuel is coming to the motor. Will update some time tomorrow bout the injectors autopart store was closed before i got off work n didn't have time to rent them

Response From Hammer Time

That test procedure is pretty self explanatory. It means if your problem is intermittent and only fails to start sometimes, then that is the only time it can be tested.

I don't believe you have performed all of that testing or you would have found your problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? What's your question? Of course you test WHILE the problem exists and if it takes a helper to turn the key so be it. Testing things that work properly isn't going to show much that's helpful,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

When i put the battery back in do i have to do the relearning process before i try n start it? And is there away to check the crank sensor without having to remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer and the crankshaft position sensor shield ?

Response From Hammer Time

You won't know if it needs a relearn until you tr to tart it. Do relearn only if you get a flashing security light when trying to start it and that's not very likely.

As for the Crank sensor, you would need a lab scope to do ay testing there.

Response From Hammer Time

Have you tested all the fuses in the car using a test light with the key on?

There is always the possibility that this car never ran out of gas in the first place.

86 Olds Cutlass Ciera misfire help

Showing 6 out of 15 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From platinumfossil on 86 Olds Cutlass Ciera misfire help

1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with 2.8L fuel injected engine and auto tranny. i've had this car for a little over a year now as a daily driver of about 30 miles/day and decided it needed a little TLC with the oil change that was due. changed the oil yesterday and went to napa website and found the correct spark plugs, wires and distributor cap for the make/model/engine i have. picked the items up and installed them this afternoon and the car ran normally. before the work the car ran pretty good for me with the occasional stall (once every few days at most) whether hot or cold engine; figured this was a minor idling issue. after the work the engine is missing and the car stalls pretty much anytime i slow down for a turn unless i keep one foot on the accelerator and one on the brake to keep the rpm's up. starts ok but will stall if i don't keep the rpm's up. i found the firing order on the autozone website and confirmed that i have the plug wires on the correct posts on the distributor cap. also noticed that my "service engine soon" light pops on after a mile or so of driving and stays on. and now the cruise control won't engage; i've never had an issue with it before. i'm about 40 minutes away from the nearest parts store so i'd like to try to figure this out without making that trip, plus my weekend is now over and i need to go to work for the next 5 days and don't want to drive the car in it's current condition. thanks in advance for all advice and suggestions, please help me out!

Response From platinumfossil

both of you were right on with the vacuum hose idea. after reading your posts i spent some more time under the hood and found one hose totally off of its connection and another hose that had either been beat up by me or had just worn out. either way it was in pretty bad shape with some good splits running down the sides so i got it replaced and the other one i knocked off put back on.
i did some google work and found out how to get the check engine code with a paper clip and found out it was a 32. this code is: EGR vacuum switch was closed during start-up or idle, or EGR vacuum switch did not close when EGR solenoid was commanded to close by ECM for 5 seconds.
i don't know what the EGR vacuum switch is but with the help of some autozone.com searching i figured out what the solenoid is and the one bad hose i replaced was connected right below it. i disconnected my neg cable on the battery for about 30 seconds to clear the code then went for a drive. i drove about 15 minutes with no check engine light so i think i've got all the vacuum issues taken care of. tomorrow will be the best test since i have to drive about 20 minutes each way to work.
the main issue now is that the engine is still a little rough. not as bad as before i got the vacuum hoses back in place but she still likes to stall out when slowing to a stop. it will idle better now but is still rough and it will still die sometimes. i'm debating whether i should use one of my old spark plug wires to try to find if i have a bad new one, was also thinking about doing the same thing with an old plug. basically my plan was to swap the new ones out one at a time with an old one and go for a short drive to see if there is a difference. this will be pretty time consuming and was hoping there would be an easier way to find out if there was a cylinder misfiring and which one? thanks for the help to all.

Response From Hammer Time

Go back and check your firing order again and make sure all the wires are seated completely. If you still have a miss, remove the plugs again and look for cracks in the porcelain.

1986 Oldsmobile Ciera
2.8 liter V-6 VIN "X" 2-bbl

Response From platinumfossil

ok, i'm getting really ticked off at this problem....

i went to autozone yesterday and bought an ignition rotor (p/n DR923), ignition coil (p/n C846) and a pick up coil (p/n DR132). installed the ignition rotor and coil and pulled all of the plugs and plug wires back off to inspect them and check the gaps on the plugs. the wires are ok, no melted areas at least; i don't have a multimeter handy or i would check the wire resistance. the plugs weren't fouled, the gaps were good at .045, and none of the porcelain was cracked.
i couldnt get the pick up coil changed becasue i culdnt get the original one out. i dont know how to pull the shaft out that the pick up coil sits around, i did a google search but the one hit i found that was related to my situation said that i just had to pull the shaft out up and out. i did some tugging on it and it really ain't budging so i gave up on the pick up coil until i get my haynes manual. ordered one the other day online but it hasn't shown up in the mail yet.
so basically all i've done today is the ignition coil and rotor and checked the plugs and wires. reinstalled everything and now the damn engine wont start! it turns over and over but wont fire. i swapped back to the original ignition coil and rotor and double checked my firing order and tried again. no start!
i'm guessing i have an issue with the distributor now but don't know how to figure it out. any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated. thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From platinumfossil

yeah i've read this word for word on several auto help websites too, i was really hoping for an answer that involved someone actually considering my situation and trying to help. i suppose many problems can be solved with a copy and paste from another website or from a repair guide saved on your computer but it really doesn't help me right now.

the car ran, still missing and running roughly with stalling problems, all day yesterday. i didnt start it today because i wanted to work on a cool engine but i seriously doubt that the fuel pressure got screwed up overnight while sitting in my garage. i also don't think the compression got screwed up either, i double checked all of my vacuum lines since i beat them up last time and they are all good. to me it's obvious that the issue is somewhere in the spark requirement but i don't know how to eliminate it down to a specific part. i don't have a spark plug tester but may be able to figure out how to make one myself, the internet is a powerful tool. i'm not sure how to use a noid light to test the injector pulse, where would i touch the probe to?

Response From Hammer Time

Let me tell you something. I wrote every word of that answer. Yes, i use it a lot and I have answered for many forums and I bet other people have taken it and used it too. That is the exact procedure you have to follow. if you think there is some kind of magic shortcut, you're wrong. we need every bit of that information to isolate where your problem is coming from. If you feel that is too much work for you or you just want to assume things, then you need to find someone else to help you.

Response From platinumfossil

ok MC Hammer Time, i can see that i bent your feelers a bit so i'm probably going to have to give up on carjunky.com for help. oh well, there are others out there that maybe you aren't the only one who answers questions on.

let me tell you something. us everyday joes who join websites like this for help don't have a full shop in our garages like you self-proclaimed ASE masters do, so stuff like fuel pressure and compression tests are kinda tough to do. why don't you just answer all of your posts with "take your vehicle to an ASE master mechanic shop and pay out the arse for complete diagnostic testing and labor rates"
i'm not looking for any magic shortcuts, just simply some help. am i being totally absurd when i say the car ran yesterday so i don't think a fuel pressure or compression test are necessary? really?

We don't allow links here
thanks again for all of your fantastic help!!!

Response From Hammer Time

Lazy is not going to get your car fixed. If you want to try the crystal ball method, you're welcome to. We deal with facts.

You can get a spark tester and noid light both for under $10. The fuel pressure gauge and compression tester can be gotten for free through the loaner program at Autozone or PepBoys.

If you want to continue to throw parts at it with no testing, that will get a lot more expensive than a couple of testing tools.

Response From platinumfossil

yeah, i suppose i could borrow the tools from a local parts store. i think i mentioned in my original post that i'm about 40 minutes away from the nearest parts store though and like i mentioned in post #7 the car won't freaking start right now so it'll probably take more like 40 hours to push it to autozone. i'm not being lazy you ass, i'm trying to get my car running again with the limited resources i have available. as far as throwing parts at it goes, i don't mind replacing these parts since they've probably never been replaced or are overdue anyways. i want this car to run well for me for an extended period of time, that's why i was changing the plugs, wires and distributor in the first place. or are those a waste of money too in your "master" opinion?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

that's why i was changing the plugs, wires and distributor in the first place

Yeah, how's that working out for you. If you keep prying on that distributor, you'll be replacing that too.

We don't guess or experiment, we test.

Response From tooanoyu

IMHO you still have a timing issue. Start fresh get a cup of coffee relax your fustrated.
1. Set the emgine to # 1 TDC pull the plug out of number 1 cylindar make sure it is on the top of the stroke. Lightly stick a screwdriver making sure it's there or a flashlight and make sure its there. WHY - Sure this will place the rotor where it needs to be on the distributor cap. then you can follow the diagram and trouble shoot it.

2. take of the distributor cap. Look at the position of the rotor it could be 180 degrees off???

3. Look to see if the rotor strike is at the same position on the contact point for number 1 plug wire. NOTE: just becuase the diagram shows where number one wire goes is doesn't mean thats where it is on the distributor cap. on my distributor cap it actually moves to the other side on the cap the cap is wired thru it.

You can actually be 180 dregrees off so long as you have the firing order right you can still have a good running car. Maybe when it was messed with before you could have happened.

You need to make sure where number one fire, spark, cap, rotar are thru the system then the rest will follow into place and follow the rotation of the firing order on the diagram.

Response From platinumfossil

Hammer Time thanks for the quick reply and for trying to assist me with this issue.

i found a similar diagram for the firing order last week when i started having the issue because that's what i figured i screwed up. the only difference is the diagram i found wasn't so handily color coded. the issue i have with both of the diagrams is that the posts are not perfectly aligned against the engine like the diagram shows. for example, the post for #2 in the diagram is at the 12 o'clock position, well when looking at them in real life it's more like at about 11 o'clock.
i will double check tomorrow after work and maybe start pulling plugs to look for a fouled or cracked one then i'll post up an update. i just hate to dig back in there too far because the vacuum hoses are in pretty bad shape. i didn't realize they were so bad until i started chasing them looking for a leak. also the various plastic parts of the vacuum system are pretty brittle, learned that the hard way earlier when i broke one. took some electrical tape to temporarily fix until i can get to napa again. thanks again!

Response From techforfree

Theres a pretty good chance you accidently pulled off a vacuum hose when you were tuning it up,that will cause the stalling,the check engine light and also the cruise control is vacuum controlled so it sounds they are related..look for that first.If the engine idles you can usually hear a hissing noise.Good luck..

Response From Hammer Time

First step is to have the codes read and see why the check engoine light is on. I'm expecting that you knocked off a vacuum hose somewhere or left something unplugged.

no fire to my spark plugs

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From randyeppers1980 on no fire to my spark plugs

my vehicle is a 1983 oldsmobile delta 88. it has 136,000 miles on the odometer. engine is a 307 c.i.d. V8 with factory 4 barrel carb. i have no spark to my spark plugs. the following items are new...spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, coil on top of the cap, ignition control module, and the pick up coil inside the distributor. i have a maintenance free distributor in that it just turns the fly wheel. unless the teeth are damaged(which theyre not) it should work if everything else works. all components are new. no crank shaft sensor on my vehicle( i've been told) what else is there? also when i removed the distributor, i marked the fly wheel and distributor so i didnt reinstall it 180' retarded or advanced. so tell me please what im missing!!!

Response From Vinnysnismo

Even if you put the distributor in 180 out it would still have spark, just not in the correct order(probably wouldn't run and if it did it would run very bad). Are you getting power into the plug that goes into your distributor? Start there. If no power your problem lies before the distributor. Also VERY IMPORTANT-- if it is a HEI ignition(coil on top of cap) you have to make sure they you install the SECONDARY NEGATIVE on the coil(it is actually for the pick-up coil)if this wire is not installed it will cause the coil wires to melt through causing "voltage punch through" destroying the coil cap n rotor. If this wire is not installed the motor will still run.... but make sure it has it. When i bought my truck (GMC w/ 350 HEI) the person that had it before me did not install the wire. My truck ran fine for a long time and one day the wires that go to the coil melted together causing all 8 cyl to ignite at the same time almost blowing the motor.(it backfired so loud a cop heard it 3 miles away) Check for power going to your dist when you turn your key on.. also make sure your rotor turns when the motor is cranked over..if not...you have serious problems.

Response From kathill73 Top Rated Answer

did you find out what was wrong as im having same problem

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the rotor inside cap turning when the engine is cranking?

T

4.3 Vortec rough running and/or rich running

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From Dale_3rd on 4.3 Vortec rough running and/or rich running

Hello all,

1994
Oldsmobile
Bravada
4.3 Vortec
125,000+ miles haven't looked at it in a while

As noted, I have an Olds Bravada, 94', that is running very rich. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator, which was leaking but it still didn't fix the issue. I also replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button. Still runs rough and is hard to start when hot, seems to start okay when cold. I bought a OBD scanner, it returned 22, throttle position sensor signal voltage low and 34 MAP sensor low voltage during ignition on. I replaced the TPS as it was the first in the list, but that didn't fix it either. I then checked the TPS voltages, good ground (read 12.28V and about 35 ohms), also had 5.02V for the 5V reference. I cleared the computer and the error codes still exist and it still runs poorly. I also now have the issue of high RPM and late shifting. Any ideas where to look now? I don't want to throw another $50 at a MAP sensor and it not be the problem.

Thanks everyone.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

When you did the regulator, did you also do the nylon fuel lines that connect to the injector? Those where known for cracking and leaking under the intake causing the engine to run really rich, fouling out plugs, and possibly fouling out the O2 sensor. If the sensor is fouled, you'll have to replace it.

fuel line kit:

Response From Dale_3rd

I replaced the "spider" I think it was called several years ago and the "nut kit" I think they called it. When I replaced the fuel pressure regulator the fuel line side was dirty, not showing any signs of leaks, nor did I see drips when I turned the key on to bring the fuel system up to pressure. The vehicle has been running rich for quite some time as I wasn't able to get the truck into my parents garage to attempt repairs. The truck only gets weekend use, to and from my parents house, so it also wasn't a priority to repair. :(

Response From Discretesignals

Need to measure the voltages on the three wires for the TPS first. You have to back probe the TPS sensor connector with your meter's black lead connected to battery negative. Don't unplug the TPS connector to take your voltage measurements.

Measure these voltages on these wires for the TPS with key on:

Grey: 5 volts
Blue: between .5-1.0 volt. Voltage goes up steady as you slowly open the throttle to around 4.5 volts at wide open throttle
Black: should be less than 0.3 volts

Take the measurements and let us know what you find out.


Response From Dale_3rd

Grey - 5.02V
Blue - .3V but goes to <0.01V when I move the throttle
Black - essentially 0V (Fluke 189 measures 0.0002V)

The plugs measures all voltages correctly when unhooked from the sensor, from the research I've done. But plugged in I don't get the varying 0.5 to 4.5V indicating that the TPS is working as it should.

Got a bad TPS sensor from the parts store???

Response From Discretesignals

Not necessary to use sensor ground as a reference. I personally always use battery ground unless you are wanting to get a cleaner signal measurement from something like a digital MAF sensor.

If you have no voltage on the signal wire, you either have a bad connection with your back probe, the signal circuit is shorted to ground, or your TPS sensor is defective.

To test the signal circuit to see if it grounded due to a wiring issue, you could unplug the ECM connectors and then use a 12 volt test light connected to battery positive. Probe the blue wire at the TPS connector. If it lights up, the signal circuit is shorted to ground.

Response From Hammer Time

Not necessary to use sensor ground as a reference. I personally always use battery ground unless you are wanting to get a cleaner signal measurement from something like a digital MAF sensor.

And what if the return voltage checks OK but there is an issue with the sensor ground? You wouldn't find it.

Response From Dale_3rd

I retested the connections, verifying that I did indeed have good connections.

Grey - 5.01V
Blue - this time I had .61V to 4.5V smoothly through the range of the throttle
Black - I used this sensor ground for the testing, 0V for this wire to the battery ground and 11.99V for this wire to battery positive.

With the new TPS installed, I get high rpm before shifting out of 1st, but seems to shift smoothly under normal driving conditions, with the old sensor in I get a very rough idle with stalls, but the shifting issue seems to go away.

Response From Hammer Time

To measure that properly you really should be using the black wire for a ground when measuring the blue wire.