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YEC
1994 Infiniti G20 Distributor Cap YEC

P311-0982279    W0133-1634911  New

Qty:
$17.27
YEC Distributor Cap
  • Production: 01/1994-
Brand: YEC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1994 - Infiniti G20 Fr:01-00-94
YEC
1997 Infiniti QX4 Distributor Cap YEC

P311-26428B8    W0133-2186988  New

Qty:
$36.06
YEC Distributor Cap
  • Production: 09/1996-06/1997, Although the OE parts info indicates that the distributor rotor for this application (through 6/97) is only sold with the complete distributor assembly, we have been advised that rotor #22157-1W600 can be used to replace the OE distributor rotor.
Brand: YEC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:09-00-96 To:06-00-97
YEC
1998 Infiniti QX4 Distributor Cap YEC

P311-26428B8    W0133-2186988  New

Qty:
$36.06
YEC Distributor Cap
  • Production: 07/1997-
Brand: YEC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:07-00-97
YEC
1999 Infiniti QX4 Distributor Cap YEC

P311-26428B8    W0133-2186988  New

Qty:
$36.06
YEC Distributor Cap
Brand: YEC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Infiniti QX4
YEC
2000 Infiniti QX4 Distributor Cap YEC

P311-26428B8    W0133-2186988  New

Qty:
$36.06
YEC Distributor Cap
  • Production: -12/1999
Brand: YEC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Infiniti QX4 To:12-00-99
Beck Arnley
1995 Infiniti G20 Distributor Cap 4 Cyl 2.0L Beck Arnley

P311-08C717C    174-7030  New

Qty:
$10.23
Beck Arnley Distributor Cap
  • DISTRIBUTOR CAP
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Infiniti G20 SR20DE L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998
Beck Arnley
1994 Infiniti G20 Distributor Cap 4 Cyl 2.0L Beck Arnley

P311-08C717C    174-7030  New

Qty:
$10.23
Beck Arnley Distributor Cap
  • DISTRIBUTOR CAP
  • From 2/94
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Infiniti G20 SR20DE L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998
Standard Ignition
1991 Infiniti M30 Distributor Cap Standard Ignition

P311-10C9FA4    JH-182  New

60-304 , E344A , 19190596 , 22162-12P11 , 12337486 , 22162-12P01 , 22162-21P00 , 12350133 , JP924 , 24235 , C638 , 51-1820 , 22162-12P12 , 22162-21P01PU , 174-6936 , E329E , 22162-12P03 , 03210 , 22162-12P04 , E321A , 22162-06P00 , E341A , 22162-12P02 , 22162-21P01 , W3060 , 22162-12P05 , 5D1183 , JA936 , 6-303 , 12336253

Qty:
$25.43
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Distributer Cap
  • Our distributor caps are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. RFI resistors where specified to eliminate radio static and potential ECU-damaging spikes. Capitalizing on decades of research and development, our distributor caps and rotors contain unmatched quality yielding superior performance. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Infiniti M30
Standard Ignition
2000 Infiniti QX4 Distributor Cap Standard Ignition

P311-4906DA0    JH-240  New

W3162 , 03414 , 88921794 , JP1000 , JH932 , DH3224 , 24394 , 2-4050 , XF5Z-12106AA , 221620W00A , F9004 , 4M4 , 174-7034 , 51-1797 , 5D1370 , E390C , JA9026 , 5D1147 , 22162-7B000 , C980 , 51-1801 , 22162-0W000

Qty:
$23.98
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Distributer Cap
  • Our distributor caps are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. RFI resistors where specified to eliminate radio static and potential ECU-damaging spikes. Capitalizing on decades of research and development, our distributor caps and rotors contain unmatched quality yielding superior performance. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Infiniti QX4
Standard Ignition
2002 Infiniti G20 Distributor Cap 4 Cyl 2.0L Standard Ignition

P311-59D3FE7    JH-263  New

W3179 , 51-1694 , 174-7054 , 22162-2J221 , 19190600 , C997 , JA9032 , 5D1180 , E304E

Qty:
$18.78
Standard Ignition Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Cap
  • Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Contents: Distributer Cap
  • Our distributor caps are made of high dielectric strength, glass/mineral reinforced polyester resin for less carbon tracking, greater resistance to electrical breakdown, and superior performance. Solid brass terminals (where available) make better connections and greater resistance to electrical pitting and corrosion. RFI resistors where specified to eliminate radio static and potential ECU-damaging spikes. Capitalizing on decades of research and development, our distributor caps and rotors contain unmatched quality yielding superior performance. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Infiniti G20 L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 2000

Latest Infiniti Repair and Distributor Cap Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

99 infiniti g20 sparking out of the cap.

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From justwicked13 on 99 infiniti g20 sparking out of the cap.

i have a 1999 infiniti g20, 2.0 sr20de 164604 miles. my car has a dead mis. its sparking out of the distributer i assume. i replaced my plugs rotor cap and wires, i can run my hand underneath the distributer and it pops me. i changed the distributer and its still doing it.. its all new can someone please help

Response From Hammer Time

What do you mean by "it pops you" and exactly where is this happening?

Have you determined which cylinder is missing?

Response From justwicked13

ok you know on the sr20de engine the distributer is side ways not up and down. i can put my hand on top and on all sides except when i run my hand underneath it it shocks me i changed distributer cap rotor button wires and plugs. and its still missing

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That's nothing real unusual. It could mean You'd never catch me laying my hand on the distributor cap of a running engine. It could be an indication of an insulating problem in the cap due to a crack or something like that,

Response From justwicked13

well i understand if it could be a insulation problem. but everything is new

Response From Hammer Time

If the secondary ignition system has extremely high resistence for any reason, the cap insulation will be insufficient. The spark will take the path of least resistence.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Zackery: "Path of least resistance." Even new parts could have been mishandled along the way or plain be bad. Secondaries should not show an arc of spark when wet on purpose and if dark you can probably see it and from where exactly. Small flaws are sometimes hard to see.

I can't suggest on a public forum to check by hand but I do! That high voltage is low amps and it's more the surprise than dangerous but that surprise can be so startling it can really hurt people or if startled enough cause a heart attack - so in general don't and use water or a spark tester. If all was perfectly good you wouldn't get a shock from any of these parts IMO.

The problem might not be the cap but could be a wire or plug OR the rotor isn't right?

T

does 1996 infiniti g20 have a coil wire?

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From chrisser42 on does 1996 infiniti g20 have a coil wire?

I replaced the spark plug wires on my 1996 infiniti g20. included in the set is a coil wire. does this need to be replaced? does this car have one? i have looked and do not see where it might be if there is one.

my car still runs rough like one of the cylinders is not firing. I have also replaced the spark plugs. I am hoping that it is not the fuel injector.

thanks-

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Car did show a single coil like above so the wire goes to it. If you feel ONE cylinder is being singled out for a misfire it probably isn't the coil wire but you have it so replace it anyway.

If no codes and you really think it's one cylinder look at the plugs - one will look different if the problem is there it could be the plug (do all if any) but take note of the wear on each as it can tell what to look for next if not a plug itself,

T

Response From chrisser42

ok, thank you. where would i find the coil?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I just looked for parts to see how this was set up but don't have a complete pic of engine compartment. All showed this coil and that a wire went to it so it's up to you to find something that looks like in the pic but OE probably was all black.

It about has to go directly to the distributor cap itself as it listed a rotor in there too but cap in the pic I saw didn't have the common coil wire up top in middle of the four plug wires so look harder! Does it sneak in the side or from under but still to that cap?

If you are chasing down this problem you really should look at all the tune-up items and replace all that are necessary. Remember - no matter what happens with ignition only the spark plug itself touches the fuel mixture with spark as the end of the line for ignition. They are informative of what MIGHT be wrong.

Seriously - if you don't happen upon what's making it run rough then get some help soon. Waiting could cost you zillions in fouling up o2 sensors, cat coverter that could be avoided,

T

Response From chrisser42

thank you. you have been a great help.

2002 Infiniti G20 crank no start

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Pokie1313 on 2002 Infiniti G20 crank no start

2002 Infiniti G20
2.0 L base (not turbo)
165k miles
My daughter's car

Engine is cranking but will not start. There was no spark upon testing with in line tester connected to plug wire, old school from screwdriver wedged into plug wire or plug +wire connected and held to ground.
No codes.
No fuses are blown.
Battery voltage present at coil (terminal 8) with ignition on and also while cranking.
Ground continuity at dizzy terminals 1 and 5. I do get some resistance and 0.1V on terminal 5 while cranking.
Have 0.4V at dizzy terminal 6 while cranking.
Did the obligatory coil resistance tests and of course primary and secondary ohms within spec.
So, I replaced the distributor with new OEM from dealer. Distributor on this integrates coil, power transistor and cam sensor into one expensive black box.
Still, no spark.
Went back over all the tests from the FSM. Tried old distributor cap and rotor. Main relay tests good. Rotor bug spins while engine cranking. Pulled terminals from distributor connectors, all look good.
Head banging, why no spark?
CEL comes on and stays on with ignition on.
Could it be the immobilizer? The security light comes on after about 5 seconds and stays on solid with ignition on. Also, with all doors, hood, trunk closed, key out, NO LIGHT. Tried a different key, no change.

Question 1. Does immobilizer on these models prevent spark? If so, how does it do that while still making it look like ignition has everything it needs to work (power, ground).
Question 2. What did I miss in the diagnosis? This thing is kicking my ass and I don't want to tow to a shop for them to find something simple stupid I overlooked.
Question 3. It' s 2014, do I still have to have nissan proprietary data connector and software to diagnose and update the immobilizer on a 2002 model?

Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.

Response From Discretesignals

Immobilizer system doesn't disable spark.

Are there any codes stored in the PCM? If so, what are the numbers? Do you have injector pulse?

Response From Pokie1313 Top Rated Answer

I was going to check codes again just now but I broke my obd2 to laptop cable. I'm having a bad day! No codes were stored before or after the distributor was replaced. Well I did have a cam sensor code after distributor replaced, but I'm pretty sure that was due to trying to start it with the distributor connector accidentally disconnected.

I am getting 12 V to injector with ignition on. Unable to crank test now due to valve cover is off (checked to see if engine out of time) and the replacement gasket won't be in till tomorrow.

Response From Pokie1313

Okay, I pulled codes and got p1610 and 1612, which are codes for the immobilizer.
I had the car towed to the dealer and they replaced the NATS antenna amp, reprogrammed keys and now the problem is resolved.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dealer found and fixed/resolved. I'll close thread as 'resolved.' and can be reopened upon request my any moderator,


T

350 has me scratching my head

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From klavinblack on 350 has me scratching my head

I have a 1958 Chevy station wagon with a 350 from a 1974 C30 truck. The engine is a create engine that has around 22,000 miles on it. When I start it up it runs good for about 3 minutes, than it starts to sputter and back fire or stall when I give it any gas. I shut it off, wait about 10 minutes and start it, then it runs fine. I get it on the highway up to 70, runs smooth with power. Head back home on city streets and it starts to sputter again, turn it off for a few minutes, start it and it's fine. I haven't given it a compression check to see if its a valve or cam, but if it were, wouldn't always run badly? I have stalled 2 rebuild carbs on it (2 barrel, manual choke), new plugs, wires, distributor cap, points, coil. The dwell was set, timing is right on at 10 degrees. What could it be?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

klavin; What carburetor and distributor are you using? The '74 used a Rochester and HEI distributor. If this is a feedback type carb...Or, could have a control module issue if a stock GM HEI dist....Give us as much info as you can. Choke...Electric? Should be. Is the choke pull-off working? Is the choke opening as the engine warms? So many questions. LOL.

Response From klavinblack

Sorry I didn't respond sooner, but I've been away for a week. The carb is a rebuild Rochester (manual choke). The distributor is not a HEI. I replaced the points last year (maybe 400 miles on them). It also has a new coil and wires. I have a HEI distrib for it, which I think I will install. Do you think I should still give it a compression test? I started it for the first time in two weeks yesterday and it sounded fine. Little story behind the car. I bought it from my friend's brother. It originally had a 348 in it. He took it out to sell it and threw the 350 in, which is a crate engine with 21,000 miles on it. I think he may have put the older distributor in along with a generator to give it that old engine look. WHY? Thanks for responding, I hope what I told you helps.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In order, Mopars went Electronic Ignition in Model year 1973, Ford in 1974 and GM in 1975. There were execptions for special duty in all.

Near sure GM went all HEI (high energy ignition or electronic=no points) starting model year 1975. I don't think changing it now with a problem with points is a good idea till that can work and the points can work fine.

What was the engine intended for or do you know in what the 21,000 miles was used in? If points as they should be you'll need at least a feeler gauge or better a dwell tack. Spec is 30 degrees - dwell.

I think all the HEIs had an aluminum or metal door and a screw (Allen headed) to adjust points if needed. A dwell tach would tell if the contact ohms are good or useless.

More on points. They sold a "UniSet" where the condenser was attached and one piece to the set which was handy.

I'll go find the feeler gauge spec now as you probably don't have a dwell tach. The bumper (nylon) must be at the top of the 8 sided cam it rides on of the points which then show the largest gap. There should be NO visable metal transfer showing which would look like a peak and valley that matched one to the other - say so if noted.

OK - by feeler the spec should be .019 and was for about all GM V8s. Err to larger if tricky to adjust as they get closer with use.

Turn crankshaft bolt if needed or click starter quickly to get bumper riding cam on top of a cam lobe.

The "Back Firing" is a clue of points all screwed up or timing way off and a bunch of other possiblilities. It's old and low miles is nice but not an assurance that it doesn't need things.

Need to know points are ok first. Get it running and worry about HEI later. I'd forget it but that is up to you.

Any more info on this engine will help. When was it last running - any info on it at all,

T

PS: Loren knows this distributor just the year when they switched from points could be different on that engine if it was for other than routinely made vehicles. If marine it could be a whole different set up and will be a pest to use in a vehicle now.......

Response From klavinblack

The engine was in a C-30 pickup. My friend bought the truck from the school department in Rhode Island. I guess the original engine pooped out and it was replaced with a new crate engine. I live in Pittsburgh now, the car was driven here from Rhode Island when I bought it 2 years ago. As for the points, I checked them with my dwell meter and they are fine. at 30. The timing is at 10 degrees. It runs like a charm most of the time. It's just sometimes when I start it I can count to 3 minutes and that's when it starts running rough. If I give it gas it either stalls or backfires. Then I shut it off, wait about 5 minutes and it's fine. Take it on the highway and I'm moving, smooth, but eventually it will run rough again. I'll stop, turn it off, wait about 5 minutes and start it, suddenly it's running great again. When it's running I can look into the carb, give it gas and see the jets working fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Great - that helps. I don't even see dwell meters out there anymore. Mine shows how good the contact is when the points touch. Wish I knew the ohm reading which really should be infinate or close.

The manual choke conversion is a nightmare area. If you can seek out the parts to make that automatic again you'll love it. It must be known NOW that if you put of OFF it's really wide open as tugging hard on a cable choke on a carb meant to be automatic choke if not exactly right will pull on cable as it can't climb the fast idle step cam unless every person who drives it know to hold the gas pedal down while setting the manual choke. It may have streched or lost adjustment - just see that it opens fully.

The stall and backfire could be spark issues or the carb over or less likely under fueling. An old trick was to tap (plastic handle or hammer) lightly right where fuel filter goes into carb and the common stuck needle valve might just snap to. Watch out if all wet with gas at a spark there is easy to make a fire.

It can run smooth for a while. Need to know if engine is fully warm or just time. It would tolerate too much fuel while cold/cool then start acting up. If totally flooding and wet that's floats, choke, needle valve usually all of which are trouble areas by age never mind miles.

Floats can sink or be heavy from being soaked in fuel. If so fuel level in bowl would be too high and always run rich - way too rich sometimes.

Gotta go soon for a while but other common crap with the age are things like ..... distributor vacuum advance, fuel pump rubber giving out, carb gaskets that hate the alcohol in much fuel used now,
vacuum leaks on vacuum trees or broken trees. Thermal sensor to pick up hot air off exhaust may be stuck to hot exhaust always which is too hot when warm. You could do without that at all just less chance of running perfectly faster from cold starts.

Can't be sure for a truck engine but the cam gear of timing chain at 21,000 miles might still be in there. Age alone if so is probably throwing chunks off of it and might jump off time and back on somehow by miricle can jump back to correct. Hard to know without looking at it if that type.

If this isn't a fuel issue but probably is the distributor shaft bushings could be worn. Low miles or not they may have had extended short runs and the oil didn't get time to keep them lubed. That will show with your dwell meter alone or moving shaft and looking at points how much more they might open if pushed that direction. By dwell meter the dwell would change by more than 5 degress - an indicator of worn distributor shaft bushings.

One more maybe for now. This may use a heat riser on exhaust manifold stuck shut. It if equipped would be a heat sensitive spring with a weight acting like a choke for exhaust. It should be freely moving - HOT - so test movement when cold. If stuck and was designed into that engine it shoots hot exhaust thru one exhaust manifold to the other really warming up intake manifold but must open and chill out as way too hot would fire incoming fuel too easy - hence backfires.

That's a bit of junk to test out and look at. If it's been running rich and for a while now spark plugs would be taking a hit and fouling up fast too.

Enough for the moment. Loren may have some ideas too as he's a senior member of the OPC (old phart club) a point where we knew this stuff new and now fighting to remember - oh just laugh,

Tom

Response From klavinblack

Thanks a lot. I'll check out some of those things and see if I can put this to rest.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

klavin; Without going back and re-reading all of the posts..... Ten BTDC sounds a bit much. I'd slide it back to about 6. (with the vacuum advance disconnected from vacuum source). With the timing light hooked up, rev the engine to 2000 rpm and recheck the timing (again, without the vacuum advance) checking the centrifugal advance. Take the reading and post it. Then, reconnect the vacuum advance and take the readings at idle and 2000 rpm and post them (should be in the neighborhood of 35 degrees, total). Another thing I'd want to check is valve lash. You could very easily have a tight valve which will be worse as the engine warms. Small block Chevs are easy to adjust. With the engine running at normal operating temp, loosen the first rocker arm until you hear it clicking. Tighten just enough to where the clicking stops. Then, in 1/4 increments, tighten one full turn. Do this to each rocker arm. (3/4 turn is usually sufficient). The engine will likely falter and maybe even die as you are cranking down. If you do it slowly, you'll be fine. This shouldn't happen on an engine with 21K miles, but small block Chevs are know for the cam lobes going flat, usually on #7 or #8. You should check to make sure that the rocker arms are getting full travel on those cylinders, especially. A flat cam lobe will cause a backfire under acceleration. At temp, connect a vacuum guage to manifold vacuum. Take a reading at idle. Raise the rpm to 2500 and take another reading. The guage should be steady, as in the needle not 'bouncing', and the reading should be as great or greater than it was a idle.
With all of this said, I'm assuming (I hate that word..lol) that all of the secondary is okay (plug, wires, cap, rotor, points, condensor) and you have good coil output. Hard to check without a scope.

Response From klavinblack

Thanks Loren, I'll check all that out and hopefully solve this thing. I'm working on my kitchen at the same time, so I have to sneak out to the garage without my wife seeing me. I guess she has figured out that I'm having an affair with a 58 Chevy.