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Original Equipment
2003 Land Rover Range Rover CV Joint Original Equipment

P311-5CC1786    W0133-1935568  New

Qty:
$133.99
Original Equipment CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Interparts
Brand: Original Equipment
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Vehicle
2003 - Land Rover Range Rover
ALLMAKES 4X4
1990 Land Rover Range Rover CV Joint ALLMAKES 4X4

P311-56A53B5    W0133-1598517  New

Qty:
$57.07
ALLMAKES 4X4 CV Joint
  • This joint fits FTC 862 & 863 axles - Use seal kit STC 3321 if the hub does not go over the stub - This seal kit includes a seal that would cover it properly.
  • L & R
  • Front
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
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Vehicle
1990 - Land Rover Range Rover
ALLMAKES 4X4
1993 Land Rover Range Rover CV Joint ALLMAKES 4X4

P311-56A53B5    W0133-1598517  New

Qty:
$57.07
ALLMAKES 4X4 CV Joint
  • with ABS - to Axle 49L11363C This joint fits FTC 862 & 863 axles - Use seal kit STC 3321 if the hub does not go over the stub - This seal kit includes a seal that would cover it properly.
  • L & R
  • Front
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
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Vehicle
1993 - Land Rover Range Rover
Original Equipment
1996 Land Rover Range Rover CV Joint Original Equipment

P311-17FE7AF    W0133-1939586  New

Qty:
$60.10
Original Equipment CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - ODM Brand
  • Front Outer
Brand: Original Equipment
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Vehicle
1996 - Land Rover Range Rover
Original Equipment
1993 Land Rover Defender 110 CV Joint Original Equipment

P311-33090B0    W0133-1600604  New

Qty:
$246.84
Original Equipment CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 24 Spline Shaft
  • GKN - Loebro
  • Front Outer
Brand: Original Equipment
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Vehicle
1993 - Land Rover Defender 110
Original Equipment
1999 Land Rover Discovery CV Joint Original Equipment

P311-1F5CFC2    W0133-1651526  New

Qty:
$65.19
Original Equipment CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ODM Brand
Brand: Original Equipment
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Vehicle
1999 - Land Rover Discovery
ALLMAKES 4X4
1999 Land Rover Discovery CV Joint ALLMAKES 4X4

P311-3214CAC    W0133-1651526  New

Qty:
$129.27
ALLMAKES 4X4 CV Joint
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
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Vehicle
1999 - Land Rover Discovery
Genuine
1989 BMW 525i CV Joint Genuine

P311-13CE0CA    W0133-1663300  New

Qty:
$121.35
Genuine CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 80mm Bolt Diameter - 24 Teeth
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
1989 - BMW 525i
Genuine
1983 BMW 533i CV Joint Genuine

P311-13CE0CA    W0133-1663300  New

Qty:
$121.35
Genuine CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/1983-
  • 80mm Bolt Diameter - 24 Teeth
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
1983 - BMW 533i
Genuine
1989 BMW 735i CV Joint Genuine

P311-13CE0CA    W0133-1663300  New

Qty:
$121.35
Genuine CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/01/1989-
  • 80mm Bolt Diameter - 24 Teeth
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - BMW 735i
Genuine
1989 BMW 735iL CV Joint Genuine

P311-13CE0CA    W0133-1663300  New

Qty:
$121.35
Genuine CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/1989-
  • 80mm Bolt Diameter - 24 Teeth
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - BMW 735iL
Genuine
1994 BMW 540i CV Joint Genuine

P311-0552BEA    W0133-1811472  New

Qty:
$268.99
Genuine CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Driveshaft to differential
  • 94mm Bolt Diameter - 28 Teeth
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
1994 - BMW 540i
Genuine
2001 BMW M3 CV Joint Genuine

P311-5206246    W0133-1901411  New

Qty:
$280.68
Genuine CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2001 - BMW M3
Genuine
2003 Subaru Forester CV Joint Genuine

P311-1CE4593    W0133-1890270  New

Qty:
$98.95
Genuine CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2003 - Subaru Forester
Genuine
2001 BMW 325xi CV Joint Genuine

P311-0C8F6B6    W0133-1964602  New

Qty:
$213.79
Genuine CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Use with 31 60 7 507 402 boot kit.
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2001 - BMW 325xi
GMB
1998 Dodge Viper CV Joint GMB

P311-20E3B30    W0133-1678918  New

Qty:
$12.08
GMB CV Joint
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1998 - Dodge Viper
Scan-Tech
1999 Volvo C70 CV Joint Scan-Tech

P311-527ACF6    W0133-1600094  New

Qty:
$336.92
Scan-Tech CV Joint
  • w/Boot&Clamps(NLA 1/12)
  • Front - Outer
Brand: Scan-Tech
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Volvo C70
Scan-Tech
1999 Volvo S80 CV Joint Scan-Tech

P311-527ACF6    W0133-1600094  New

Qty:
$336.92
Scan-Tech CV Joint
  • with 4T65EV/EV-GT Tranmission
  • w/Boot&Clamps(NLA 1/12)
  • Front - Outer
Brand: Scan-Tech
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Vehicle
1999 - Volvo S80
GKN Drivetech
1986 Saab 9000 CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-5135E57    W0133-1620370  New

Qty:
$68.56
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Inner (tripod joint only); the companion flange (joint housing) is serviced separately.
  • Inner Tripod Joint
Brand: GKN Drivetech
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Saab 9000
GKN Drivetech
1987 Saab 9000 CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-5135E57    W0133-1620370  New

Qty:
$68.56
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: GKN Drivetech
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Saab 9000

Latest CV Joint Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

CV Joint Noise and play

Showing 6 out of 11 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From r286ps2 on CV Joint Noise and play

I have a video of what I noticed. I am having noise and cannot figure out if it is a wheel bearing or Axle issue. The 2005 VW GTI Auto just had new aftermarket axles installed.

Now I am hearing this noise when moving the Axle side to side by hand it is a clunking sound with some play, Does this sound normal? I hear a bad grinding noise at lower speed and a vibration at around 3500 RPMs. I am posting the video link below.


http://tinypic.com/r/2dky1c7/8

Response From r286ps2

Well the shop is telling me it is a the Sway Bar Bushing. I am not sure how the bushings would cause a constant thump almost like a grinding sound. The noise is not dependent on the hitting bumps it is a constant intermittent grinding sound at low speeds.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again - what I saw in your video of movement would ruin a hub about instantly. You've said a couple times that it's an independent shop and usually that's a good thing. Any place is still subject to the exact tech and what protocol the shop has for releasing a car/job as fixed or who knows one by one.


Now you are being told "Sway Bar" bushings? YOU WERE GRABING THE AXLE/HALF SHAFT not a sway bar that I saw! Most vehicles you can take a sway bar off the vehicle totally with little non aggressive driving impact!


Now what? Seems like you are getting excuses for more work not fix the problem. I'm not there (duh) to see this in person but think something went all wrong messing with it in the first place. Hub inside race may be squished into bits - never saw that in person but that shaft isn't working out inside that hub!


Can't decide for you but think it's time for another shop,


T

Response From r286ps2

I brought it back and had the tech ride in the car with me he wasn't sure what it was but said it does not sound like a wheel bearing because it goes away at higher speeds. He is going to look at it some more but I think is is thinking that the bushing may affect the axle which could be making the noise. I will wait to see what they say but this is getting outrageous. It seems like a lot of mechanic have no idea how to work on a VW.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Here's your video again.....
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2dky1c7&s=8#.VUkPCulFBjo
Did a tech look at that? I see both in and out and seems up and down on the shaft. Can you steady the camera and take a better one but really that one was pretty good.
Hey - if techs or a whole shop doesn't want "Euro" car work then just say so. There are some differences and tools plus costs of repair info on demand they should have. It's a dang VW and they would be cutting out a lot of cars out there.


Let's start over a bit. Did this make the exact same noise when you took it in? If so they missed it and that can happen then test their own work if NG call you that they need more time and discuss it with you - something - not this "it might be this or that on top" endlessly.


IDK, shaft was out if replaced and with a silly shop rag could have felt the hub and bearing right then. Maybe it is all kinds of elusive but I doubt it.


Are you willing to show in person to another shop what your video shows? For all I can see the new shaft is NG, not common to me but wouldn't rule anything out now.


This joint seems like they just want to be done with this and not take it seriously so far?


T

Response From Discretesignals

CV axles usually don't make grinding noises. They could cause vibrations on acceleration or cause clicking noises. You should be checking out your wheel bearings.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Those axles (1/2 shafts) get rebuilt almost always. With what you showed it either isn't close to the correct axle or installation went all wrong. Don't drive it that way at all till corrected,


T

Response From r286ps2

Those axles (1/2 shafts) get rebuilt almost always. With what you showed it either isn't close to the correct axle or installation went all wrong. Don't drive it that way at all till corrected,


T

So I am assuming the noise is not normal(assuming you see my video). What could cause it to make that noise? Is it just not fitted properly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Unless I watched the wrong thing that was plain wobbling around like it was an entire different size or bearing hub trashed beyond much you could push like that.
Those 1/2 shafts spin at the speed of the wheel, no motion should really show by hand like that!


Didn't say in first reply but would try to get the core back to at least match up for the right one as I somehow think it's all the wrong part or possible? A hub that bad (has splines inside) would fail in feet not miles!


If as I think it might be not only did the new shaft not work out it probably ruined the hub/bearing as well now - must have.


Have to say not safe to drive this car right now,


T

Response From r286ps2

Unless I watched the wrong thing that was plain wobbling around like it was an entire different size or bearing hub trashed beyond much you could push like that.
Those 1/2 shafts spin at the speed of the wheel, no motion should really show by hand like that!


Didn't say in first reply but would try to get the core back to at least match up for the right one as I somehow think it's all the wrong part or possible? A hub that bad (has splines inside) would fail in feet not miles!


If as I think it might be not only did the new shaft not work out it probably ruined the hub/bearing as well now - must have.


Have to say not safe to drive this car right now,


T


I just brought it to the shop and waiting to hear from them. I brought it to an independent shop. If it is a safety hazard I want to have it looked at right away. I have two small children in this car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Please, let me/us......... the world know what was found. I can't believe the shop could mess up that bad from what I saw. Good luck that it gets fixed right this time,


T

CV joint or Wheel bearing noise? Have video

Showing 6 out of 14 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From r286ps2 on CV joint or Wheel bearing noise? Have video

I think it is the CV joint can someone confirm sound
https://vid.me/qMAt

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - That's so bad you should just hoist that wheel and find what's wrecked! That's IMO way beyond what most CV joints going bad do for noise before totally falling off!
Wheel bearings: With wheel still on and tight no free play allowed. Almost all bad wheel bearings of that hub type will growl when driven shifting the weight of vehicle louder one way than the other.


This is rattling like a loose wheel it's so bad so may be something else totally and would be looking for broken brake or backing plate. Maybe and happens brake will throw a pad off of metal backing plate and sound about like that too so check it all.


I can't recommend driving this car as if that's bearing, brake or CV joint it wasn't safe before this!


T

Response From r286ps2

I am pretty sure it is the CV joint. Brakes seem fine. Not really making bearing noise

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Right - not typical bearing noise. Try this: Hoist and secure car with stands for that wheel so you can get under safely.
Just grab that driveshaft at the metal part and bet you hear it inside the outer boot and shouldn't hear or feel a thing.
You might need to turn wheel to full extremes to make it worse.
Otherwise I'd take that wheel off and just look at brakes first and feel rotor inside and out noting anything out of order including but probably not a sway bar pin broken that could rub - usually not this exact way but look.


If nothing found take that caliper just up and off and look at pads, hardware - anything. It shouldn't be that hard to do just to check that and I highly suspect that. Yes a chunk or whole brake lining can come off backing plate, brake still work but make noise like all hell broke loose even if not worn out but some time on them.
Your video was very good. This problem should be easy to find but as said may need to remove caliper. Duh - if separated do equal work to both sides.
#1 is to find out what - I wouldn't put up with that more than to put it in shop from what I heard,


T

Response From r286ps2

I am about 100 miles from home I an bringing right to a shop to be looked st you think it may be brake related. It started after going down s bumpy road.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes I think it's what I though - brake pad fell apart. If at all possible it's totally in order 100 miles from home to have it checked and made road safe for even that 100 miles if you wish or can finish at home?
Nothing is for sure until inspected but if pad fell off or broke and still mostly in place brake may feel fine but when if like some I've been driving did that and pad broke away your brake pedal will go to floor a couple times then have a metal to metal brake action again that will stop and wrecking rotor but will usually still stop the car fine - no surety on any of it from here.
Be smart. If you can't even nurse the thing safely to a shop tow it as we really aren't positive of just what.


Good luck that it's a quick and doable fast fix and be on your way knowing it's done,


T

Response From r286ps2

Got it fixed hub ring broke loose and the abs senor detached

Response From Tom Greenleaf

WoW! That was fast and glad it's fixed. Was worth it to know for sure,


Tom

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Nobody ever mentioned the ABS light being on.

Response From r286ps2

I did not see any ABS light on. I am pretty sure the guy said that it was not attached properly, but the noise seemed like it was coming from the hub ring not being tight due to the incorrect torque.

I have had such an awful experience with mechanics working on VWs they seemed to not know how to work on them properly. I will admit VW have a lot of odd things that a lot Mechanic seem to not know how to properly work on.

Response From Hammer Time

If the tone ring was damaged or unattached or any problem with the sensor, there would not have been an accurate speed signal from that wheel and there should have been ABS issues.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

VW wasn't mentioned at first and not super strong with all their idea. ABS light (amber warning) should have been ON as HT said. Why that came loose who knows?
I'm fairly OK that a direct wild safety issue is fixed but why no light? Most vehicles, any brand will bulb check with key turned to just run and some just while starter is cranking as a "bulb check."
If I were you I'd want to know if bulb is working, why not if not and know that you do NOT likely have ABS now. Plenty don't anyway not the issue you should know or fix that as required or a legality or what?


T

Response From r286ps2

I am not exactly sure if it was not detached completely, I think it might of been loose or something. They did not explain it well to me, but I am not sure how the hub ring,,came loose. The wheel bearing was recently replaced on that side.


Trust I know what you mean about VWs, After getting my VW I can now definitely see why the Germans lost WWII. There engineering is ok(I guess, not really convinced) but there designs are AWFUL.

They gave me some weird car jack that the so dumb the car fell of the car,, it fits into the side slots of the frame,, but they did not think that maybe the side slots could get bent making the jack useless.

Look at this jack:

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jacks with about any car suk - total last ditch emergencies only IMO.


That doesn't address your ABS issue and if car fell don't see how that knocked of a star wheel for ABS. It wasn't right for another reason.
Find out what the deal is with that. If you don't like VW? why do you have one? Many models of assorted types and the widest selling car maker in the whole world meaning the most places by a lot!
Back to your car. It probably has the wrong 1/2 shaft in it and someone tried to put a star wheel where it was for a model that didn't have one or something? That and just bust the bulb which you've been asked if it worked so somebody wouldn't notice needing the whole shaft for another reason - who knows now how it got that way the noise of it is fixed you still don't know if you have working ABS now or not,


T