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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ALLMAKES 4X4
    ALLMAKES 4X4
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    GKN Drivetech
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    GKN Loebro
  • GMB
    GMB
  • Genuine
    Genuine
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We stock CV Joint parts for most makes, including Audi, BMW, Dodge, Land Rover, Mercedes Benz, Porsche, Volkswagen.

GKN Loebro
1991 Volkswagen Transporter CV Joint - Rear Outer GKN Loebro

P311-29A86D8    301137  New

Qty:
$53.33
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: GKN Loebro
Position: Rear Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Position
1991 - Volkswagen Transporter MV Rear Outer
GKN Loebro
1991 Volkswagen Transporter CV Joint - Rear Inner GKN Loebro

P311-29A86D8    301137  New

Qty:
$53.33
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: GKN Loebro
Position: Rear Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Position
1991 - Volkswagen Transporter MV Rear Inner
ALLMAKES 4X4
1992 Land Rover Range Rover CV Joint ALLMAKES 4X4 - L & R

P311-56A53B5    W0133-1598517  New

Qty:
$80.98
ALLMAKES 4X4 CV Joint
  • This joint fits FTC 862 & 863 axles - Use seal kit STC 3321 if the hub does not go over the stub - This seal kit includes a seal that would cover it properly.
  • L & R
  • Front
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Land Rover Range Rover
ALLMAKES 4X4
1995 Land Rover Range Rover CV Joint ALLMAKES 4X4 - L & R

P311-56A53B5    W0133-1598517  New

Qty:
$80.98
ALLMAKES 4X4 CV Joint
  • with ABS - to Axle 49L11363C This joint fits FTC 862 & 863 axles - Use seal kit STC 3321 if the hub does not go over the stub - This seal kit includes a seal that would cover it properly.
  • L & R
  • Front
Brand: ALLMAKES 4X4
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1995 - Land Rover Range Rover County LWB
GKN Drivetech
2003 Mercedes-Benz E320 CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-319F220    W0133-1610904  New

Qty:
$103.08
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Body Manuf. Body Code
2003 - Mercedes-Benz E320 Base 112.941 Wagon 210.265
GKN Drivetech
2005 Mercedes-Benz C320 CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-319F220    W0133-1610904  New

Qty:
$103.08
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Seperate parts valid for bolted axle shafts only
  • Rear
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body
2005 - Mercedes-Benz C320 Base Sedan
Genuine
1992 BMW 850i CV Joint Genuine

P311-2CDDE91    W0133-1811470  New

Qty:
$407.86
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 94mm Bolt Diameter - 28 Teeth
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - BMW 850i
Genuine
2001 BMW 750iL CV Joint Genuine

P311-0552BEA    W0133-1811472  New

Qty:
$392.83
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Driveshaft to differential
  • 94mm Bolt Diameter - 28 Teeth
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - BMW 750iL
Genuine
2006 BMW Z4 CV Joint Genuine

P311-5206246    W0133-1901411  New

Qty:
$355.15
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Driveshaft
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2006 - BMW Z4 M Coupe
Vaico
2006 BMW X5 CV Joint Vaico - with Boot & Clamps

P311-5176305    W0133-2572501  New

Qty:
$119.07
Vaico CV Joint
  • with Boot & Clamps
Brand: Vaico
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - BMW X5
Genuine
2006 BMW X5 CV Joint Genuine - w/o Boot & Clamps

P311-301C2CA    W0133-2572501  New

Qty:
$302.95
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o Boot & Clamps
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - BMW X5
Genuine
2005 BMW 330xi CV Joint Genuine

P311-0C8F6B6    W0133-1964602  New

Qty:
$236.34
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Use with 31 60 7 507 402 boot kit.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - BMW 330xi
GKN Drivetech
1992 Volkswagen Golf CV Joint 4 Cyl 1.6L GKN Drivetech

P311-0F12695    W0133-1614939  New

Qty:
$105.44
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 90mm
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Volkswagen Golf GL Manual L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1588
GKN Drivetech
1986 Volkswagen Golf CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-0F12695    W0133-1614939  New

Qty:
$105.44
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Inner 90mm, C.V. - Excludes GT
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
1986 - Volkswagen Golf Automatic
GKN Drivetech
1990 Volkswagen Golf CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-0F12695    W0133-1614939  New

Qty:
$105.44
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: -025 611*, 90mm
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
1990 - Volkswagen Golf GTI 8-Valve up to 025 611*
GKN Drivetech
1990 Volkswagen Jetta CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-0F12695    W0133-1614939  New

Qty:
$105.44
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: -025 611*, 90mm - Mexico
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
1990 - Volkswagen Jetta Carat up to 025 611*
GKN Drivetech
1987 Volkswagen Quantum CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-0F12695    W0133-1614939  New

Qty:
$105.44
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: -086 636, 90mm - Syncro
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
1987 - Volkswagen Quantum Base up to 086 636
GMB
2001 Dodge Viper CV Joint GMB

P311-0CDD2E2    W0133-1999276  New

Qty:
$41.53
  • Greasable
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Dodge Viper
GKN Drivetech
1977 Porsche 911 CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-0360DAB    W0133-1615042  New

Qty:
$176.31
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 40mm Width - Inner & Outer
  • 40mm Width
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1977 - Porsche 911 Turbo Carrera
GKN Drivetech
1983 Porsche 911 CV Joint GKN Drivetech

P311-0360DAB    W0133-1615042  New

Qty:
$176.31
GKN Drivetech CV Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 40mm Width - Inner & Outer - Inc. Turbo Look
  • 40mm Width
Brand: GKN Drivetech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1983 - Porsche 911 Base

Latest CV Joint Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

CV JOINT PROBLEM

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From mfordb5 on CV JOINT PROBLEM

I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan with a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder. My vehicle seems like something is holding it back when taking off and it shudders. The problem seems to be on the drivers side front and only acts up after driving it a while and getting it warmed up. It even made a weird noise. I put a new caliper on and it was still doing it, so I replaced the CV Joint. This seemed to work at first, but it came back on the way home from work. I just looked at it again and the CV boot it split at he wheel side. What could this be....the transmission

Response From Hammer Time

If you already split a new C/V boot, then you messed uo something in the installation. You probably have some type of brake issue but you need to get it diagnosed properly instead of throwing parts at it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ditto - CV joints usually have crakeling sounds upon turning. No more fixeing just toss a known bad shaft for a rebuilt. Not funny and ripped up boot is the beginning of the end. That's drivetrain stuff - anything else still possible but dont waste parts for guessing.

Story: Neighbor with no symptoms of a problem just pulled into driveway and whole frucking thing gave out, balls rolling around - the whole works. Trashed 1/2 shaft and no one knew................ NBD as a new one solved the problem..............

T

Response From mfordb5 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for your help. It was a CV Joint installation problem. The dust shield from the CV Joint came off the original CV Joint and stay on the steering knuckle. It was like welded onto the hole over time and I thought it was just a part of the steering knuckle. After I got the new CV Joint (life time warranty), I noticed it this time and popped it out with a drip punch. All is well now.

CV joint or Wheel bearing noise? Have video

Showing 4 out of 14 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From r286ps2 on CV joint or Wheel bearing noise? Have video

I think it is the CV joint can someone confirm sound
https://vid.me/qMAt

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - That's so bad you should just hoist that wheel and find what's wrecked! That's IMO way beyond what most CV joints going bad do for noise before totally falling off!
Wheel bearings: With wheel still on and tight no free play allowed. Almost all bad wheel bearings of that hub type will growl when driven shifting the weight of vehicle louder one way than the other.


This is rattling like a loose wheel it's so bad so may be something else totally and would be looking for broken brake or backing plate. Maybe and happens brake will throw a pad off of metal backing plate and sound about like that too so check it all.


I can't recommend driving this car as if that's bearing, brake or CV joint it wasn't safe before this!


T

Response From r286ps2

I am pretty sure it is the CV joint. Brakes seem fine. Not really making bearing noise

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Right - not typical bearing noise. Try this: Hoist and secure car with stands for that wheel so you can get under safely.
Just grab that driveshaft at the metal part and bet you hear it inside the outer boot and shouldn't hear or feel a thing.
You might need to turn wheel to full extremes to make it worse.
Otherwise I'd take that wheel off and just look at brakes first and feel rotor inside and out noting anything out of order including but probably not a sway bar pin broken that could rub - usually not this exact way but look.


If nothing found take that caliper just up and off and look at pads, hardware - anything. It shouldn't be that hard to do just to check that and I highly suspect that. Yes a chunk or whole brake lining can come off backing plate, brake still work but make noise like all hell broke loose even if not worn out but some time on them.
Your video was very good. This problem should be easy to find but as said may need to remove caliper. Duh - if separated do equal work to both sides.
#1 is to find out what - I wouldn't put up with that more than to put it in shop from what I heard,


T

Response From r286ps2

I am about 100 miles from home I an bringing right to a shop to be looked st you think it may be brake related. It started after going down s bumpy road.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes I think it's what I though - brake pad fell apart. If at all possible it's totally in order 100 miles from home to have it checked and made road safe for even that 100 miles if you wish or can finish at home?
Nothing is for sure until inspected but if pad fell off or broke and still mostly in place brake may feel fine but when if like some I've been driving did that and pad broke away your brake pedal will go to floor a couple times then have a metal to metal brake action again that will stop and wrecking rotor but will usually still stop the car fine - no surety on any of it from here.
Be smart. If you can't even nurse the thing safely to a shop tow it as we really aren't positive of just what.


Good luck that it's a quick and doable fast fix and be on your way knowing it's done,


T

Response From r286ps2

Got it fixed hub ring broke loose and the abs senor detached

Response From Tom Greenleaf

WoW! That was fast and glad it's fixed. Was worth it to know for sure,


Tom

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Nobody ever mentioned the ABS light being on.

Response From r286ps2

I did not see any ABS light on. I am pretty sure the guy said that it was not attached properly, but the noise seemed like it was coming from the hub ring not being tight due to the incorrect torque.

I have had such an awful experience with mechanics working on VWs they seemed to not know how to work on them properly. I will admit VW have a lot of odd things that a lot Mechanic seem to not know how to properly work on.

Response From Hammer Time

If the tone ring was damaged or unattached or any problem with the sensor, there would not have been an accurate speed signal from that wheel and there should have been ABS issues.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

VW wasn't mentioned at first and not super strong with all their idea. ABS light (amber warning) should have been ON as HT said. Why that came loose who knows?
I'm fairly OK that a direct wild safety issue is fixed but why no light? Most vehicles, any brand will bulb check with key turned to just run and some just while starter is cranking as a "bulb check."
If I were you I'd want to know if bulb is working, why not if not and know that you do NOT likely have ABS now. Plenty don't anyway not the issue you should know or fix that as required or a legality or what?


T

Response From r286ps2

I am not exactly sure if it was not detached completely, I think it might of been loose or something. They did not explain it well to me, but I am not sure how the hub ring,,came loose. The wheel bearing was recently replaced on that side.


Trust I know what you mean about VWs, After getting my VW I can now definitely see why the Germans lost WWII. There engineering is ok(I guess, not really convinced) but there designs are AWFUL.

They gave me some weird car jack that the so dumb the car fell of the car,, it fits into the side slots of the frame,, but they did not think that maybe the side slots could get bent making the jack useless.

Look at this jack:

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jacks with about any car suk - total last ditch emergencies only IMO.


That doesn't address your ABS issue and if car fell don't see how that knocked of a star wheel for ABS. It wasn't right for another reason.
Find out what the deal is with that. If you don't like VW? why do you have one? Many models of assorted types and the widest selling car maker in the whole world meaning the most places by a lot!
Back to your car. It probably has the wrong 1/2 shaft in it and someone tried to put a star wheel where it was for a model that didn't have one or something? That and just bust the bulb which you've been asked if it worked so somebody wouldn't notice needing the whole shaft for another reason - who knows now how it got that way the noise of it is fixed you still don't know if you have working ABS now or not,


T

CV Joint Noise and play

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From r286ps2 on CV Joint Noise and play

I have a video of what I noticed. I am having noise and cannot figure out if it is a wheel bearing or Axle issue. The 2005 VW GTI Auto just had new aftermarket axles installed.

Now I am hearing this noise when moving the Axle side to side by hand it is a clunking sound with some play, Does this sound normal? I hear a bad grinding noise at lower speed and a vibration at around 3500 RPMs. I am posting the video link below.


http://tinypic.com/r/2dky1c7/8

Response From r286ps2

Well the shop is telling me it is a the Sway Bar Bushing. I am not sure how the bushings would cause a constant thump almost like a grinding sound. The noise is not dependent on the hitting bumps it is a constant intermittent grinding sound at low speeds.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again - what I saw in your video of movement would ruin a hub about instantly. You've said a couple times that it's an independent shop and usually that's a good thing. Any place is still subject to the exact tech and what protocol the shop has for releasing a car/job as fixed or who knows one by one.


Now you are being told "Sway Bar" bushings? YOU WERE GRABING THE AXLE/HALF SHAFT not a sway bar that I saw! Most vehicles you can take a sway bar off the vehicle totally with little non aggressive driving impact!


Now what? Seems like you are getting excuses for more work not fix the problem. I'm not there (duh) to see this in person but think something went all wrong messing with it in the first place. Hub inside race may be squished into bits - never saw that in person but that shaft isn't working out inside that hub!


Can't decide for you but think it's time for another shop,


T

Response From r286ps2

I brought it back and had the tech ride in the car with me he wasn't sure what it was but said it does not sound like a wheel bearing because it goes away at higher speeds. He is going to look at it some more but I think is is thinking that the bushing may affect the axle which could be making the noise. I will wait to see what they say but this is getting outrageous. It seems like a lot of mechanic have no idea how to work on a VW.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Here's your video again.....
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2dky1c7&s=8#.VUkPCulFBjo
Did a tech look at that? I see both in and out and seems up and down on the shaft. Can you steady the camera and take a better one but really that one was pretty good.
Hey - if techs or a whole shop doesn't want "Euro" car work then just say so. There are some differences and tools plus costs of repair info on demand they should have. It's a dang VW and they would be cutting out a lot of cars out there.


Let's start over a bit. Did this make the exact same noise when you took it in? If so they missed it and that can happen then test their own work if NG call you that they need more time and discuss it with you - something - not this "it might be this or that on top" endlessly.


IDK, shaft was out if replaced and with a silly shop rag could have felt the hub and bearing right then. Maybe it is all kinds of elusive but I doubt it.


Are you willing to show in person to another shop what your video shows? For all I can see the new shaft is NG, not common to me but wouldn't rule anything out now.


This joint seems like they just want to be done with this and not take it seriously so far?


T

Response From Discretesignals

CV axles usually don't make grinding noises. They could cause vibrations on acceleration or cause clicking noises. You should be checking out your wheel bearings.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Those axles (1/2 shafts) get rebuilt almost always. With what you showed it either isn't close to the correct axle or installation went all wrong. Don't drive it that way at all till corrected,


T

Response From r286ps2

Those axles (1/2 shafts) get rebuilt almost always. With what you showed it either isn't close to the correct axle or installation went all wrong. Don't drive it that way at all till corrected,


T

So I am assuming the noise is not normal(assuming you see my video). What could cause it to make that noise? Is it just not fitted properly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Unless I watched the wrong thing that was plain wobbling around like it was an entire different size or bearing hub trashed beyond much you could push like that.
Those 1/2 shafts spin at the speed of the wheel, no motion should really show by hand like that!


Didn't say in first reply but would try to get the core back to at least match up for the right one as I somehow think it's all the wrong part or possible? A hub that bad (has splines inside) would fail in feet not miles!


If as I think it might be not only did the new shaft not work out it probably ruined the hub/bearing as well now - must have.


Have to say not safe to drive this car right now,


T

Response From r286ps2

Unless I watched the wrong thing that was plain wobbling around like it was an entire different size or bearing hub trashed beyond much you could push like that.
Those 1/2 shafts spin at the speed of the wheel, no motion should really show by hand like that!


Didn't say in first reply but would try to get the core back to at least match up for the right one as I somehow think it's all the wrong part or possible? A hub that bad (has splines inside) would fail in feet not miles!


If as I think it might be not only did the new shaft not work out it probably ruined the hub/bearing as well now - must have.


Have to say not safe to drive this car right now,


T


I just brought it to the shop and waiting to hear from them. I brought it to an independent shop. If it is a safety hazard I want to have it looked at right away. I have two small children in this car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Please, let me/us......... the world know what was found. I can't believe the shop could mess up that bad from what I saw. Good luck that it gets fixed right this time,


T

CV Joint Trouble.

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Alex1989 on CV Joint Trouble.

Alright I have a 1998 Ford Ranger, and when I am driving along my trucks wheels make this high pitched, squealing like noise. It is a 4x4 so I suspect that it has something to do with the CV joints. As the wheel goes around it makes the noise and you can tell that it is making the noise as the wheel turns round and round. So does anyone have any suggestions?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wheel bearings are more likely. CV joints usually crackle and worse on turns or when accellerating,

T

Response From Alex1989 Top Rated Answer

comming from the front wheels?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes! Front wheels have bearings. It isn't exactly like Fred Flintstone's buggy

T

Response From way2old

Could also be a brake indicator that is rubbing the rotor and squealing. Does it squeal all the time? Does the squealing lessen when the brakes are applied? Is it worse turning? As you can see, the more information we have, the more we can help you.

96 Hyundai CV Joint Replacement

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Nell on 96 Hyundai CV Joint Replacement

G'day Everyone,

First time here. I'm going to have to replace both Right & Left CV Joints on 1996 Hyundai Excel. My Partner has a friend who says he can do it, hmm. Can you please help me with the basics that have to be done & roughly how much it would cost DIY compared to replacing the front axle or am I on the wrong track with replacing axle.

Thanks

Nell

Response From Sidom

Depending on the cost of the reman axles, that would probably be the best way to go. Here the price has come down so much that the price is close either way you do it and changing an axle is less work plus you get 2 new boots & grease.

Changing the boots only is labor intensive and while not real hard there are a few tricks to doing it, so if the prices is good, go with the axles...

Response From Nell Top Rated Answer

Hi Sidom,

Thanks for the information, one more thing. Does the condition of shock absorbers affect the CV Joints?


PLH

Nell

Response From Sidom

That car should have struts on the frt not shocks.

It won't affect it directly but a weak strut will allow the frt end to dip more as well as bounce more, so that is more in & out movement on the inner (plunge) joint & boot so indirectly over time I guess it could....