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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Crankshaft Seals

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SKF
1987 Ford Bronco Engine Crankshaft Seal 8 Cyl 5.0L SKF

P311-43AF073    W0133-1699254  New

Qty:
$28.32
SKF Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/1987-
  • Rear
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1987 - Ford Bronco V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 - Fr:03-00-87
NOK
2015 Subaru WRX STI Engine Crankshaft Seal NOK - OEM

P311-2102847    W0133-1640717  New

Qty:
$20.64
NOK Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OEM
  • Front
Brand: NOK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Subaru WRX STI
NOK
1998 Subaru Forester Engine Crankshaft Seal NOK - OEM

P311-2102847    W0133-1640717  New

Qty:
$20.64
NOK Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/30/1998, 33x49x8mm
  • OEM
  • Front
Brand: NOK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Subaru Forester To:06-30-98
NOK
1997 Subaru SVX Engine Crankshaft Seal NOK - OEM

P311-2102847    W0133-1640717  New

Qty:
$20.64
NOK Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 33x49x8mm
  • OEM
  • Front
Brand: NOK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Subaru SVX
NOK
1993 Subaru Impreza Engine Crankshaft Seal NOK - OEM

P311-2102847    W0133-1640717  New

Qty:
$20.64
NOK Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/1992-, 33x49x8mm
  • OEM
  • Front
Brand: NOK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
1993 - Subaru Impreza L Fr:11-00-92
Mahle
1987 Chevrolet Astro Engine Crankshaft Seal Mahle

P311-528A981    W0133-1682881  New

Qty:
$37.48
Mahle Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • Front
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Chevrolet Astro
SKF
2018 Ford Edge Engine Crankshaft Seal 6 Cyl 3.5L SKF

P311-1228E7A    W0133-1842926  New

Qty:
$17.44
SKF Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Ford Edge V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 3496
Victor Reinz
2018 Porsche 718 Cayman Engine Crankshaft Seal 4 Cyl 2.0L Victor Reinz

P311-0A1C917    W0133-3044986  New

Qty:
$25.73
Victor Reinz Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 85 X 105 X 11mm
Brand: Victor Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Porsche 718 Cayman H 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1988
Victor Reinz
2018 Porsche 718 Cayman Engine Crankshaft Seal 4 Cyl 2.0L Victor Reinz

P311-0A1C917    W0133-3044986  New

Qty:
$25.73
Victor Reinz Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Victor Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Porsche 718 Cayman H 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1988
Corteco
2017 Chevrolet Trax Engine Crankshaft Seal Corteco

P311-4BC5C5E    W0133-2072681  New

Qty:
$37.48
Corteco Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Corteco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Chevrolet Trax

Latest Crankshaft Seal Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD

Showing 4 out of 33 Posts | Show 29 Hidden Posts
Question From MarineGrunt on Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD

Most know that I'm currently rebuilding the tranny on the Venture. I know the oil pan was leaking from the gasket so pulled the pan. It looks like there's oil leaking from a few other spots. I did the intake about 8 months ago so everything from the intake up should be fine. It looks like it's coming from a gasket behind the, bear with me here on part names, but the aluminum body that is behind all of the pulleys. It almost looks like there's a tiny bit of seepage around the head gaskets although that could be from something leaking down in the past. I posted some pictures so hopefully you'll be able to help me identify any leaks. I can wait on the leaks if they gaskets are still somewhat easy to get to with the tranny back in. I know the oil pan gasket is easier with the tranny so that is being replaced now. It looks like the other gaskets and seals would be okay to get to with the tranny in. What do you recommend? Replace the ones I need to now or what until the tranny is back in? I've always wanted to rebuild an engine. Maybe I'll do that next.....haha The most I've ever done to an engine was a head in a 94 Sunbird. I've never had an engine out though.

Just so you know. The oil pan is currently off.

This is looking up on the back right hand side of the engine.



Same as above just zoomed out a little.



Front right of the engine.




Back right of engine. It looks like there may be a little seepage from the head gasket but not much at all. It could just be from the valve cover before I did the intake. I'll try and get a better picture to post.


Response From Discretesignals

Does the crankshaft front seal look like it is leaking and blowing back and up around the timing cover?

Response From MarineGrunt

It looks like there's a paper gasket behind the timing cover. Just to make sure, the aluminum cover behind all the pulleys is the timing cover, correct?

Response From MarineGrunt

I guess I didn't really answer your question. I guess it could be possible but looks like it's coming from that paper gasket behind the timing cover.

Could I just wait on this or would it be easier with the tranny out? I picked up a rear main seal but not sure where it goes and couldn't find it in alldata. I'm thinking I should replace the paper gasket and the crankshaft seal. What do you think? I'd rather wait until the tranny is back in unless you recommend doing it now.

Response From Discretesignals

You have to remove the flex plate(flywheel) to get to the rear main seal on the engine.

If you remove the flexplate, make sure you mark its position, so it goes back on in the same place. Some flywheels can only be clocked a certain way, but on some others it can have multiple positions. It won't make a difference on that engine because the interrupter is in the middle of the crank, but it is common standardized practice to clock them in the same position they came off. The reason is is some engines use the flywheel/flex plate as the crankshaft sensor interrupter. Getting the flywheel clocked in a different position throws the crankshaft signal out of time with the actual crankshaft's position. (just some FYI)

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks DS. I don't only like fixing my vehicles but also like to know why and how something works. I always appreciated your explanations.

Response From Discretesignals

Well, if you ever do a rear main on something like a Volvo that is good information to know.

Response From MarineGrunt Top Rated Answer

The gasket kit, with crankshaft seal, only cost me $9.00. That's what I like to see.

When I took the radiator cap off I noticed quite a bit of rubbery sludge on the cap and on the sides of the neck of the radiator. I replaced the antifreeze when I did the intake and didn't really notice as much sludge. I've never added any kind of stop leak or anything but I'm not sure about a previous owner. We've had the van since 2006. Should I give it a good flush or replace the radiator?

Response From nickwarner

Give it a good flush. When your intake was bad it can contaminate the oil. Take the surge tank out and put hot water and degreaser in it. Bleieve it or not Dawn dish soap gets this out nicely. If you have a long baby bottle brush left over from the kids early years get that in there and scrub. Now if this coolant has contamination in it from oil you will need to flush it out. I would first pressure test it. With your trans not in it the lines are unhooked and this would be a great time to be sure your trans heat exchanger inside the radiator isn't cross contaminating. Put the cooling system up to pressure and see if any antifreeze comes out the cooler lines of the trans. If so, change the radiator and flush the system.

Everyone has their preferred product to clean the residue out. I use Simple Green or Jungle Jake to do it. You put about 1/2 gallon of it in the system, top it off with water, and run the engine for about 25-30 minutes at 2000 RPM. Then idle down for two minutes and drain. Fill up with clean water and repeat until the water comes out clean. Then add half the amount of your cooling system capacity of pure antifreeze. Finish filling with water. Some water will remain in the block, which is why you want to add straight coolant first so when all is said and done you will have a 50/50 mix.
The advantage with Simple Green and Jungle Jake is they are biodegradeable, so if it goes down the driveway into some plants or a sewer its not hurting anything. It also smells good, and in a shop something that smells nice is hard to come by so a pleasant change. Also doesn't hurt that you can get the stuff pretty much everywhere. Most radiator flushes are made to remove scale deposits and rust. They aren't that great as degreasers.

Here's the info on the rear main seal.

Print
Removal & Installation



The transaxle assembly must be removed to perform this service. This requires special tooling to support the engine assembly while the transaxle and sub-frame are lowered from under the vehicle.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    WARNING When removing the seal, use care so that no damage occurs to the crankshaft. Once the seal is removed, inspect the crankshaft surface for any nicks or burrs. Repair or replace crankshaft as necessary.


    Negative battery cable Transmission assembly Engine flywheel Oil seal


To install:


Fig. Use the correct installation tool when replacing the rear seal
  1. Install or connect the following:

    New oil seal lubricated with engine oil, using an Oil Seal Installer tool J 34686 until it is seated properly over the crankshaft Flywheel Transmission assembly Negative battery cable
  2. Start the vehicle and check for leaks, repair if necessary.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE Be careful not to damage the crankshaft seal surface with the prying tool.


    Negative battery cable Transmission assembly Flywheel Crankshaft seal by prying it from out oil seal housing


To install:


Fig. Indicating the proper orientation of the rear main seal during installation


CAUTION Note the direction of the rear oil seal. The new design seal is a reverse style as opposed to what has been used in the past. "THIS SIDE OUT" has been stamped into the seal.


NOTE Do not apply or use any oil lubrication on the crankshaft rear oil seal or the seal installer. Do not touch the sealing lip of the oil seal once the protective sleeve is removed. Doing so will damage or deform the seal. Clean the crankshaft sealing surface with a clean, lint free towel. Inspect the edge of crankshaft for burrs or sharp edges that could damage the rear main oil seal. Remove burrs or sharp edges with a crocus cloth.

  1. Install the new rear seal by using a seal installer.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Flywheel Transmission assembly Negative battery cable
  3. Start the engine and check for leaks.



For the timing cover, this is what you need

Removal & Installation


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Drain the coolant.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable Crankshaft balancer Drive belt tensioner Power steering pump and lines. Do not disconnect the lines from the pump Thermostat bypass pipe from the front cover Radiator outlet hose from the water pump Water pump Upper and lower Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor wire harness bracket from the front cover CKP sensor from the front cover Front cover and gasket


    Fig. Crankshaft timing mark locations
  5. Rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks are aligned in the following locations:

    Camshaft alignment pin (1) Timing chain damper (2) to the crankshaft sprocket (3) Crankshaft key (4) Timing chain damper (5) to the camshaft sprocket locator hole (6)
  6. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Camshaft sprocket bolt Timing chain, timing chain sprockets and damper Front oil seal


    Fig. Exploded view of the timing chain assembly


To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    New front oil seal by making certain the seal is fully seated Timing chain damper. Torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). Timing chain to the camshaft sprocket Crankshaft sprocket Timing chain to the crankshaft sprocket by making certain the chain is fully seated
  2. Align the crankshaft timing mark to the bottom mark on the damper.
  3. Align the timing mark on the camshaft gear center line of the locator hole with the timing mark on the top of the damper.
  4. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the camshaft sprocket.
  5. Install or connect the following:

    Camshaft sprocket bolt. Torque the bolt to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  6. Apply a 0.20 inch (5mm) bead of sealer to both sides of the lower tabs of the engine front cover gasket.

    Front cover. Torque the 5 small bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm), the 3 large bolts to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) and the 2 remaining bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Water pump to the front cover. Torque the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Water pump pulley. Torque the bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). CKP sensor to the front cover Upper/lower CKP wire harness brackets to the front cover Radiator outlet hose to the water pump Thermostat bypass pipe to the front cover Power steering pump and lines Drive belt tensioner Crankshaft balancer Negative battery cable
  7. Fill the engine with oil.
  8. Fill the coolant system.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the great description. It's 70 degrees out today so figured today was a good time to take care off the other crap. I pulled the tranny out in the drive so I had more room in the garage. I can't wait until we purchase some land so I can build me a nice garage!

Good old Simple Green. We used the heck out of that stuff in the Marine Corps. Good stuff.

Can I get away with installing the rear main seal without the special tool as long as I'm careful that it lines up okay?

I'm about 99% sure that the timing cover gasket is the main cause of the seeping oil. It's wet all along the outside of it. I wish I would've replaced it when I did the intake.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Degreaser favs for finding a leak I've had luck with specific to just what and where not mentioned yet,
* Westley's Bleche-Wite by brand. Not sure what else but can harm asphalt.
* Lanolin like the 'agent orange' type hand cleaners.
* No surprise but WD-40 (mostly fish oil) depending on where. So far will not harm painted things.

Other more serious totally nasty XXX
* Marine Hull cleaner - brush (nylon brush only) on and anything organic or rust will smoke! Keep that crap away from anything but specific items! I think it's oxalic acid or sulfuric acid.
* Some Brake-Kleen type products are mostly lacquer thinner. Watch out for paint again and rubber items.
* XXXX and AYOR - Marker's Mark! Call hazmat squad to be on standbyhttp://www.autoacsystems.net/phpBB2/images/smiles/panic.gif !

New ordinary gaskets: Like Felpro products. If paperish for oil sealing will use black Permatex gasket maker in the finest smear (no build up) and allow to fully dry..........

T

Response From MarineGrunt

What's the trick to getting the old paper gasket off in such a tight space? It is really stuck on there. Can I spray that gasket remover?

Tom, are you saying to smear the rtv, let it dry, and then put the gasket on top or smear the rtv on both sides of the gasket, let it dry, and then install?

Have to take the wife out for the evening so will be back at it tomorrow.

Response From Hammer Time

I'll throw my 2 cents worth in here.

What i do is I use a thin spray adhesive on the surface of the new part and cement the gasket to it and then right before installing it, I apply a coat of RTV too the engine side. That way that gasket stays firmly in place on the part and will not move during installation and if ever removed again, the setup will make the gasket remain on the removed part and make clean up easier. The RTV will also fill any pitting you may have on the block. If the cover has any pitting, it should be replaced and it likely will have.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the advice HT. I didn't notice any pitting on the timing cover so I think I'm okay to reuse it.

Another question. Is the crankshaft seal on the timing cover or is there another seal behind the crankshaft sprocket?

Response From Hammer Time

No, that is all oil lubricated behind the cover. Seal is in the cover.

Response From MarineGrunt

Great....thanks HT!

Response From MarineGrunt

When I'm cleaning up the surface on the engine am I okay to spray the gasket remover and parts cleaner without worrying about it getting into any certain spots? I'm going to flush the cooling system when finished but didn't know about the engine. Will spraying it hurt anything if it does get into any spots it shouldn't be?

Response From Hammer Time

Not at long as you change the oil when you're finished, You would be better using a scraper instead.

Response From MarineGrunt

Scraper it is.


I'm pretty sure this will be the last minivan we will own. I'm not a big fan of working on them. I like how alldata says, "Remove the power steering pump with lines. Move the power steering pump to the side'" Yeah right, where the hell is the room to move it to the side? I just pretty much left it in place and wiggled the timing cover off. But hey, I've done enough work on this thing to where I'm getting the hang of working on it. It has been a good vehicle though. I didn't have to touch anything, besides the condenser and compressor, until we hit 140k. I can live with that.

Thanks again for the help HT. Always appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

The pump is pretty easy to remove. There are 3 10mm bolts that can be access through the hole in the pulley and then the pump will slide right out of the bracket with pulley and all.

Response From MarineGrunt

I already got it off. I was just saying how the manual says to move it to the side but there's hardly any room to move it to the side. There's hardly any room at all in a minivan engine compartment.

Is Ultra Grey okay to use? I can't seem to find my black. I know I have some somewhere though so will find it if need be.

Response From MarineGrunt

I ended up finding the leak I first posted about. When I first started pulling the tranny I could've sworn it was oil. Since I flushed the power steering system I can now tell that it's power steering fluid. I was able to climb underneath and see that it's coming from the hard line where it connects to the pump. So, it's either the fitting on the line or on the pump. I shouldn't have to remove anything to replace that line so might try that first. If I replace the other line I'll probably have to pull the alternator and pump. I wasn't able to install the power steering pump without removing the bracket where you lift the engine. I tried for quite awhile but couldn't drop it in place. If we're going to keep the van I should probably just replace the pump and both lines while I'm at it. The other line just has a 6" rubber hose and then the hard line so I might be able to just replace the hose section. Should I first try the one line or go ahead and replace both lines and the pump? The pump works fine the fitting just might be leaking.

One more question. I noticed you can get a power steering pump seal kit. Looks like it comes with O-rings. What are the chances I could just replace the O-rings? Does the hard line have an o-ring or is it flared? I think if I could just take care of the leak where the line goes into the fitting it would be fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? Is PS leaking at connections, lines or not so sure yet? Is this running yet to clean and really see the leak? PS lines: Pressure and return. Pressure is serious pressure + return rather passive quality hose and clamps.

Seal kit? If you mean tank to pump fine and if leaking do that. Pumps themselves aren't so serviceable but that hasn't stopped you yet. So far none so costly all done to make it worth it to me anyway.

Dealing with one now (Ford product) that of course now just refuses to show itself at all, all OE 24+ years old and looks like about 2 months old new junk in the trunk waiting probably worse than the old OE stuff.

Just watch out for plain hose with clamps what kind of clamps. Near impossible to find are the full circle clamps. The spring worm (call those what you will) do not apply even pressure unless one whole loop isn't cut for the screw. I think I have the last two of those. Just keep an eye on what you end up using if you go there. Pressure whole lines aren't that expensive IMO so far but this may have a fitting in the line for sensing pressure for a sensor to seal too. Should come with what you need for seals.

PS stuff is important as no fluid and pump failure can mess up a ton of junk and render you a pedestrian if it can't hold a belt on the system,

T

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Tom. I'm pretty sure the leak was just from the o-ring on the fitting that connects to the pump. It was junk. I was able to completely disassemble the pump and replace all seals and O-rings. The kit came with the shaft seal, fitting o-ring, rear cover o-ring, and reservoir o-ring. I think that's pretty much all the O-rings and the only seal. I didn't see any others and I had it completely torn down. Vanes and all. Since I ordered new lines I went ahead and replaced them too. No since tearing back into it for $80. Those lines weren't much fun. It would've been much easier with the tranny out. If I would've had it on a lift they would've been a piece of cake. It was just hard getting my arm up to screw the fitting into the rack.

It's all pretty much operational. Well, I hope so. I started it up the other day to top off fluids and all but haven't put it into gear yet. I still have to let it warm up, shift through all the gears, and top of the tranny. I've been putting off throwing it into gear until I have too. I'm too darn nervous! Tomorrow is the day though.

Oh but you thought you had the last two worm clamps. Remember that shadow you saw outside your window the other night out of the corner of your eye? You weren't seeing things.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote ">>Oh but you thought you had the last two worm clamps. Remember that shadow you saw outside your window the other night out of the corner of your eye? You weren't seeing things."

LMAO - You wouldn't recognize them at a glance. I'll beat it up a bit with hose clamps.......

Typical............

Seems that's all even high end parts stores will give you either stainless or not. Stainless should be marked "SS" on housing for the clamp. That type shown allows the cuts for the screw to contact the hose and NOT very good but cool because you can open those and use two end to end for a larger clamp BUT they do NOT apply even pressure. Those if only choice use two in opposite directions and still flare a metal line if you are making a piece.

Two side by side showing a difference.............

One on left is the ones I can't find anywhere. See that no cut gear touches hose such that it is "full circle" pressure. Have gone to every known hardware and automotive place known and can't find the ones on the left in that pic. Easy to use and stays tight. There's some rule if something is designed to work you are not allowed to sell it!

Others that are good and used commonly............

That is OE for many applications. Locally I can only find those at a Benzo, Rolls and Bentley dealer! Mostly for PS and fuel line use OE. Can be snugged up and do apply full circle pressure. If 'SS' (magnet wont pick them up) I'll use those in place of even some OE junk meant for one time use.

One time use type.............

At least it is as close to full circle for junk out there. Advantage is fast, dirt cheap, set pinch tool so tightness factor is pre-set. No brains involved for mass production which is now key.

Self adjusting now in common use for cooling system mostly, an assortment shown...........

This idea at least as a hose shrinks the clamp continues to hold same contact pressure. One in center right works best IMO but can require special tool that costs more than anyone would want to spend to use them quickly in odd locations.

Tool look like this...........

Generic shown.

This crap matters and can wreck your whole job later long after it worked the cheap junk clamps can leak, slip, rust out, strip out, cause marital problems (LOL) and will by Murphy's Law be in the hardest place to do anything about it requiring 10 hours time taking other things out of the way to fix what could have been right the first time - will fail at the worst possible time causing the most damage!

The best new PS hose I have uses the one time crimp clamp and I'm not pleased. That exact case it is located where it can be swapped out fast and easy for a better one.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This is or can be nasty critical. My take is to make vehicles fast and furious at any location by unskilled labor with the least expensive materials you can get away with rules the market.

Laugh - I feel better now - Tom

Response From Hammer Time

I'm not sure but i think it has a slower drying time.

Response From MarineGrunt

I found my black.

Last question...... hopefully. This is the first timing cover I've done so just want to make sure I cover all bases. I don't like doing things twice just because I didn't ask someone who knows. Do I need to use any kind of sealant on the bolts or will the gaskets take care of them?

Response From Hammer Time

It probably would hurt to put some on the 4 bolts around the water port but the others won't matter. Sometimes those threads go through to the water jacket.

Response From nickwarner

Those bolts will be the real long ones, and I'm with HT about putting some silicone on them. He also raises a good point about using spray-tack to hold the gasket to the cover and silicone on the block side. If you do have pitting on the cover you add it to the float test pile for when we go fishing, and if not the gasket will stay on the cover should you have need to ever pull it again.

Response From nickwarner

Gasket remover will loosen it up. Die grinder with a roloc disc gets at it pretty good on the block, but timing cover is aluminum so a very delicate touch is needed. I think Tom means you should rub a small film of RTV on the cover, place the gasket on it and allow it time to cure. Then rub a small film on the other side just before you bolt it up and let that sit a few hours before you fire it up.

You can install the rear main without the installer but you have to be very careful and have to fabricate your own puller. I made one for the front seal of an N14 at work out of pipe and flat stock. You need a piece of pipe that just barely fits over the crank. Cut off a piece and weld flat bar across one end of it. Drill two or more holes in that bar that match your crankshaft bolt pattern. Once you get the seal onto the crank and lined up, place your installer over the crank and use the crank bolts to pull the tool into the seal. Absolute diligence must be exercised to make sure it is going in straight. Also realize that a crude homemade tool will not have a positive stop, so you must know exactly how deep to install this.

With both the front and rear main seal, be sure to look very closely at the crank mating surface. Strange as it is, that rubber seal lip can and will cut into your hardened steel crank and if you have damage you will need a speedi-sleeve seal setup or this will never seal up properly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

RTV? Conjures the question which one as by brand "Permatex" there are many in assorted colors. Plain black (other colors seen out there) marked gasket maker vs the "adhesive sealant" easily mistaken.

What I mean is for paper or some other assorted gaskets anywhere just to color the new gasket with the stuff which is NOT necessary by the book at all but noted that the paper itself can and will leak thru coolants, oils just a bit then quit. Maybe just me but I like to pressure up a cooling system with tester while just air is inside and spray some soapy water to verify the seal is good. Yup, even properly done with just air you get that shaving cream like it's leaking but wont with the coolant later. Doesn't matter if timing cover stuff, intakes that run coolant or what I like to know it's OK before it is all back together.

Other is once a gasket of those types has that junk on it it will never be a nightmare to deal with again and just peel off. Before electricity old pharts would use grease. Still would but silicone - pure stuff. Hard to find but use it in/on many assorted things never to be soldered or painted later. Threaded studs & bolts. This anal behavior is for the next possible chance you are there again it will behave like it should have been made to begin with but just can't be. You get one shot when there to make it last,

Tom

Response From MarineGrunt

Sounds good. Off to CARQUEST. Thanks DS.

Response From Discretesignals

Yep, that is the timing cover. If it appears the timing cover is leaking, it is a lot easier to deal with when the oil pan is off. If you do end up removing the cover, it is a good idea to replace the timing chain and components. If you can overhaul a transmission, rebuilding an engine is cakewalk.

3.3 liter replace timing cover seal

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From tcwagner on 3.3 liter replace timing cover seal

Can you replace the front crankshaft seal on a Plymouth 1990 3.3 liter engine without pulling the cover using a seal puller after removing the crank pulley?
Thanks, Terry

Response From DanD

Yes the seal can be changed without removing the timing cover. You may need a puller to remove the crank pulley. Some will slide off by hand after the bolt is removed; the next one will feel like its welded in place.
If you can get your hands on the proper seal removing tool that’s a bonus, but you really don’t need one. What I have done in the past is too drill a couple of small holes in the face of the seal. Then take a couple of self-tapping screws and thread them into the holes. Once the screw bottoms out; the screw will then push the seal out as you keep tightening the screw.
You just have to be very careful not to mar the crankshaft’s seal area, while you’re removing the old seal.
A couple of other notes while doing this; first off, you may need to polish the crankshaft’s seal area with a fine emery cloth, removing the old seal line. What I mean is the wear line, where the old seal has been rubbing on the crankshaft.
Many of the aftermarket seal manufacturers have taken this wear line into consideration when designing their replacement seals and change the position of where the seal rubs the crankshaft.
Secondly; lubricate the new seal lip where it rubs the crankshaft, with a light coat of grease or some form of petroleum based paste lubricant; a dry seal will fail within a few minutes.

Dan.

Response From tcwagner

Dear Dan,
Thanks a bunch. I have been to Canada a couple of times. Once my wife and I toured from Niagra Falls down to Windsor and visited Quebec, Ontario and some other places. Got robbed in Quebec visiting "Mont Real" in the evening. Ended our trip early. I was in this same 1990 van back in 1995. They broke the passenger window and got in, left our cameras but took our money and cards. Had to go back to Vermont with no money and no credit cards with a fabricated window of a pizza box and duct tape. Got a new window and cards and skulked back to Florida. That is when I learned you never want to buy a used window in the north, scratches from ice scrapers on every one I pulled. But we very much enjoyed visiting and want to come again sometime when we can. You were very helpful.
Sincerely,
Terry "Loonies" W.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

That would bugger up a trip for sure; your story does remind us not to leave valuables in your vehicle. On the bright side (if there is one) this was a break-in, not a robbery with some A-hole threatening your safety.
I do know what you mean about used parts up here; vehicles take a real beating from Mother Nature.
I had one customer tell me that when he went into a Florida quick lube place for an oil change, before his trip back home. The kid doing the service went and got this camera too take a couple of pictures, of the underside of the car. He said he had never seen so much rust on a vehicle that was still on the road. LOL
To us up here, if there aren’t any holes it aint rusted. LOL

Dan.

Response From Double J

Well,after reading that, I'm rescheduling my travel plans....LOL....

Rental vehicle all the way next time,HUH!

Are you sure you weren't in Illinois? ..LOL


Jim

2000 silverado 4.3 oil leak??? help please

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From DrewSun on 2000 silverado 4.3 oil leak??? help please

OK to start
I have a
2000
Chevy
Silverado 1500
4.3 vortec
165,000 miles

I can see oil accumulating between the oil pan and the timing cover
I have had the timing cover replaced by a machanic and after spending $433.33 he told me that he found what the oil leak was, the oil pan has a crack in it
now after spending $206 on a new oil pan and put it on it is still leaking oil. can anyone help me out please
oh and the last 8 vin is YZ209019

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Crankshaft seal????
Timing cover seal????

Crankshaft pully bolt

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From nevadaghosttown on Crankshaft pully bolt

I have a 1987 Toyota 4Runner 2.4L Turbo with automatic trans( hate them). I just replaced the crankshaft seal belts, waterpump. My problem how to keep the crank from turning while torqueing the bolt. The trans inspection plate you have to remove the tranny to remove it. I have the belts tight for now and have used sockets with other ratchetts on power steering pully bolt and alt pully bolt. Im out of ideas please help. Also no air tools.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Matco tools has a tool for this purpose that I believe is called the crankstopper. It threads into the spark plug hole and stops the piston from continuing in its travel. remember to take the thing out before you try to start the motor. Sounds dumb, but I've seen in happen when people get distracted. I don't think it costs too much for it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Will probably take a helper but you should be able to lock the "flywheel" with a pry bar to get the crank bolt properly tightened - may have to remove starter or could use a dust shield - dunno for sure on that one but that's a way to do it,

T

Response From re-tired

I confess .In the v8 days a burp with the airgun worked , never had a failure . However , when the eng's got knocked sideways there was'nt room for the gun and/or the torque value was lower than i could get gun adjusted to. This is a way when you dont have access to flywheel like this one.Remove #1 plug, turn eng to TDC #1 cyl. Take a length of 1/8 inch dia cotton clothes line . turn eng slightly either before or after TDC depending on crankbolt being LH or RH thread. Feed in lne till cyl is full. Carefully torque bolt .Back eng up to relieve pressure . Take out line.

Crankshaft oil seal leak - BMW 3 series 2007

Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From JeffC on Crankshaft oil seal leak - BMW 3 series 2007

I recently noticed a very slow oil leak which a garage tells me is coming from the rear crankshaft oil seal. It had apparently leaked into my starter motor which had started to fail and has now been replaced. To avoid another starter failure I need to correct the leak and would appreciate your views on:

- Use of oil additives to stop leaks. Are they safe to use and do they work

- Possibility of an oil breather problem causing pressure build up (Its the N47 diesel engine)

- Is it highly likey it is the crankshaft seal and I should just shell out and get it replaced

- How much would you think for full job?

Really appreciate your advice


Jeff

Response From Discretesignals

That vehicle is no sold here in the states, so advice is limited.

Did the shop check the operation of the PCV system to be sure it is working?

If you don't feel comfortable with the shop's diagnosis, you could always get a second opinion.

There are additives that can condition seals, but unlikely it would stop a worn out seal or seal with too much pressure behind it from leaking.

Response From JeffC

I asked about pressure build up but this was never checked out. I have just been looking at my Haynes manual and it talks about a crankcase pressure limiting valve. Is this the same as the PCV. The manual doesn't Seem to mention a PCV. Definately getting a second opinion on this. Thanks for your help.

Jeff

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just FYI on what PCV = "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" is about.


Blow-by of gasses gets into the vapor areas above oil in oil pans (sump as you called it) and anywhere oil and air are including inside valve covers. What's confused is that "positive" is really making a very slight vacuum in the entire area via the PCV system that also removes that vapor and burns it so should show a very slight vacuum that you can usually measure thru a dipstick tube for oil with engine just idling.


Smoke from a source - incense stick, cigarette if not windy is a quick "hillbilly" way to watch that. If crankcase is under pressure rather than vacuum (just 1/2 of one Hg or so) it will find places to blow oil vapor out like a leak and make real oil (some) show up like a real problem leak and may not be or may be plain excessive blow-by.
If the system is plugged up, broken in some way as DS here suggested can cause the leak which will naturally go to lowest spot if enough to drip.


Rear main seals (in general now on most engines - for decades any make) a "rear main" seal does have a "very limited leak" by design to lubricate it. It would have ONE drop in that location on many and not a problem but not enough to mess up a starter so there's a problem.


How extensive is yet unknown to me. It's my opinion that if a rear main seal is plain worn out that bearing of a crankshaft are the common reason - totally not good! The free motion of a crankshaft because of worn bearings IMO is marking the end of an engine! Either that or a fix would mean either re-machining crank fitted with new properly sized bearings I still consider a patch not along life (many years) fix.


Why? Bad oil pumps, run low on oil, neglect or abuse on the list.


There's also bad luck with a seal. BMW anything isn't known to me for this nor neglect especially this new.


This is why my first thought was a second look or opinion - that's all,


T

Response From JeffC

Hi Tom

You suggested a test for crankcase pressure which I wanted to report back on. When I took the dipstick out there was definately no vacuum. Smoke could be seen rising out of the dipstick tube in fact. I checked the breather hoses and found one from the valve on top of the engine to the air intake to be perished and leaking. I just wanted to check if you think this would be the cause of the pressure build up and the cause of my crankshaft oil seal leak. I have a picture of the damaged hose.



Jeff

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jeff - This is primal for an internal combustion engine since forever. This case you see a hose in need. That alone could be your whole problem. Fix that then proceed back to even that "hillbilly" smoke test.


FYI - The gasses that normally pass by rings must be vented OUT of engines, once to the ground via a tube now long, long time captured and burned, regulated by a PCV system and clean air allowed in to replace what was drawn out but leaving crankcase in such a slight vacuum not pressure or it would seek the easiest way to blow out an oily mist and show as a leak very real and active or just a mess. I can't say where is the weakest spot but a newer vehicle that didn't have a neglect problem, or overwhelmed with blow-by from wear would just pick to vent where it could even back up to air intake parts.


That mist has to get removed or engine would suffer from very poor quality vapors with oil in them and gasses that would quickly ruin the oil, lubrication of anything oil lubricates.


For now - let's save the design reasons and find out it fixing that hose will solve this. Then just change out the oil and test again that the system is in fact working.


If a seal anywhere was damaged (can't say right now) it might not leak or IDK - you would slow it down at least by all odds.


FYI: Sealing things for engine oil include the pressure sensor, gaskets anywhere like valve covers, intake possible, oil pan gasket(s) front and rear seals as well. Those two are meant to seep just a drop a day such that they don't burn out being dry. If all is good not enough to show up much at all as more than a dirty spot over some time.


The real fear I have is if something went wrong and it is in fact a rear main it's frequently because engine's crank bearings allow too much motion/wobble in worn bearings which is close to an impossible thing to cure or make as good as it would be from new ever again!


If that it should also show as slow oil pressure build up when started from cold. To me that marks the beginning of the end of that engine but don't freak out just yet.


Fix that hose. Get BMW specialty help for things that are likely on this engine to fool the diagnosis not just the "all engines need this idea by design" things I've mentioned as you may also have oil temp sensor(s) and coolers I wouldn't know of for this,


Tom

Response From JeffC

Thank you again Tom. You have been an incredible help. I will change the hose and keep you posted on progress.

Best wishes

Jeff

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I can't speak for diesel engines but I can tell you that a bad rear main in BMW gas engines is very rare.
Valve cover leaks are very common however.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No additives - period! Second opinion on the source suggested.


Some (IDK each ones) - put alloy oil pans too low not protected and can crack and fool you.


I'm not a "Beamer Specialist" sometimes required. Basics on an oil leak it YOU know it has one is to look for highest and most forward areas that show oil dampness - should be from there,


T

Response From JeffC

Thanks for you advise Tom. I am pretty sure the leak is right down at the bottom of the engine since I can see no evidence at all higher up. I will get a second opinion as you suggest and get the sump checked out.

Jeff