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We stock Crankshaft Position Sensor parts for most Oldsmobile models, including Achieva, Alero, Aurora, Bravada, Calais, Cutlass, Cutlass Calais, Cutlass Ciera, Cutlass Cruiser, Cutlass Supreme, Delta 88, Firenza, Intrigue, LSS, Silhouette, 88, 98.

FAE
1993 Oldsmobile Achieva Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor FAE

P311-08C3C0A    W0133-1689974  New

Qty:
$32.80
FAE Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
Brand: FAE
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1993 - Oldsmobile Achieva DOHC
ACDelco
1994 Oldsmobile Achieva Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor ACDelco

P311-17AF0F9    W0133-1684228  New

Qty:
$76.87
ACDelco Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Behind Balancer
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1994 - Oldsmobile Achieva OHV
ACDelco
1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor ACDelco

P311-17AF0F9    W0133-1684228  New

Qty:
$76.87
ACDelco Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Timing Cover
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1993 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme M
ACDelco
1993 Oldsmobile Achieva Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor ACDelco

P311-3E871EF    W0133-1689974  New

Qty:
$40.33
ACDelco Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1993 - Oldsmobile Achieva DOHC
Pex
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Pex

P311-4A228F8    W0133-1686363  New

Qty:
$55.04
Pex Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
Brand: Pex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Aurora
Pex
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Pex

P311-4F943AE    W0133-1686364  New

Qty:
$71.61
Pex Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
Brand: Pex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Aurora
ACDelco
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor ACDelco

P311-5ACFBC3    W0133-1686364  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Aurora
WSO
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor WSO

P311-594386D    W0133-1834118  New

Qty:
$38.98
WSO Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor ACDelco

P311-4983025    W0133-1834118  New

Qty:
$106.61
ACDelco Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Delphi
1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.4L Delphi

P311-58DE0A7    SS10089  New

CSS101 , CSS16 , 10456043 , CSS4 , CSS109SB , DR1422 , CSS22 , SU137 , CSS120 , 8104560430 , CSS20 , 5S1665 , CSS19 , 147-408 , 917-757 , CSS23 , PC7 , 147408 , CSS109 , 8-10456-043-0 , CSS76 , S10119 , DR1404 , DR1412 , 213148 , 10456555 , 235-1021 , 180-0320 , CSS26 , CSS573

Qty:
$22.59
  • Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Delphi is an OEM supplier
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Delphi
2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Delphi

P311-58DE0A7    SS10089  New

CSS101 , CSS16 , 10456043 , CSS4 , CSS109SB , DR1422 , CSS22 , SU137 , CSS120 , 8104560430 , CSS20 , 5S1665 , CSS19 , 147-408 , 917-757 , CSS23 , PC7 , 147408 , CSS109 , 8-10456-043-0 , CSS76 , S10119 , DR1404 , DR1412 , 213148 , 10456555 , 235-1021 , 180-0320 , CSS26 , CSS573

Qty:
$22.59
  • Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Location - Engine Block Delphi is an OEM supplier
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Oldsmobile Silhouette
Delphi
1999 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Delphi

P311-53FAFAF    SS10090  New

10457516 , 147-432 , CSS1827 , DR1413 , SU1054 , S10081 , 147432 , CSS17 , 235-1020 , PC32 , 5S1683 , 213345 , CSS110

Qty:
$38.08
  • Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Delphi is an OEM supplier
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile Aurora
Standard Ignition
1997 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Standard Ignition

P311-2CA3EDA    PC123  New

10456572 , 5S11478 , 10456672 , 10456200 , 10456532 , 2CRK0029 , 213-283 , 71-4863 , 10456542 , 147-435 , 71-5404 , 235-1081 , 35079 , 8-12562-910-0 , 12562910 , 213-313 , 12596851 , 235-91081 , 10456607 , 213-3208 , 213-341 , S10107 , 3858979 , SU1207VC , CSS123 , 8-10456-200-0 , 600-6155 , 8-12596-851-0 , D8011 , 22126 , 213-339 , 213-946 , 147-433 , 10497492 , 12569210 , 6M9 , 10456042 , 917-755 , 10456256 , 180-0590 , 147-454 , SU1396 , 8-10456-542-0 , 5S1695 , 3858979-2 , 2-96082 , SS10125 , 10456292 , 864297001 , 213-308 , SU1207 , 8-10456-532-0 , 8-10456-607-0

Qty:
$63.03
Standard Ignition Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Crankshaft Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Integrated A/D converter and digital signal processing with a dynamically adaptive switch point improves accuracy and operation. Advanced circuitry protects the system from stray electro-magnetic fields and power spikes. Custom magnetic circuit programming calibrates the sensor while performance testing for improved timing accuracy between the target wheel and sensor output. The sensor is constructed with an insert molded rare earth magnet and surface mount electronics in a sealed housing suitable for under-the-hood applications to allow the sensor to perform reliably while maintaining it compact shape. 100% environmental, endurance and end-of-line testing for Timing, Pulse Width and Signal Amplitude ensures consistent product reliability.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Standard Ignition
1992 Oldsmobile Achieva Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.3L Standard Ignition

P311-419FE62    PC134  New

147-403 , SS10133 , 10456295 , 22017 , 22101 , 7M2 , S10095 , 24576398 , 22130 , 213-319 , 1103707 , SS10150 , 2H9 , 71-4832 , 235-1008 , 235-1078 , SU1278 , 917-713 , 180-0528 , 235-91078 , 2-96104 , 12567712 , 213-970 , SU147 , 71-4831 , SU1072 , 1103703 , 8-12567-712-0 , 147-480 , CSS69 , 213-366 , 5S1668 , 35090

Qty:
$29.91
Standard Ignition Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Crankshaft Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Integrated A/D converter and digital signal processing with a dynamically adaptive switch point improves accuracy and operation. Advanced circuitry protects the system from stray electro-magnetic fields and power spikes. Custom magnetic circuit programming calibrates the sensor while performance testing for improved timing accuracy between the target wheel and sensor output. 100% environmental, endurance and end-of-line testing for Timing, Pulse Width and Signal Amplitude ensures consistent product reliability. Featuring the broadest sensor coverage in the market, we meet the service professionals needs with the highest quality product every time he opens the box. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Oldsmobile Achieva L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 -
Standard Ignition
2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Standard Ignition

P311-50D0BD0    PC61  New

147-436 , 147-431 , SU195 , 600-6372 , 235-91046 , 24508212 , 235-1046 , 2CRK0023 , 2-96080 , 12567648 , 10231684 , 71-4839 , SS10212 , S10109 , 213-255 , 22129 , 12550965 , CSS23 , 213-936 , 907-772 , 24506902 , 5S1675

Qty:
$40.17
Standard Ignition Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Crankshaft Sensor
  • Behind Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Integrated A/D converter and digital signal processing with a dynamically adaptive switch point improves accuracy and operation. Advanced circuitry protects the system from stray electro-magnetic fields and power spikes. Custom magnetic circuit programming calibrates the sensor while performance testing for improved timing accuracy between the target wheel and sensor output. 100% environmental, endurance and end-of-line testing for Timing, Pulse Width and Signal Amplitude ensures consistent product reliability. Featuring the broadest sensor coverage in the market, we meet the service professionals needs with the highest quality product every time he opens the box. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Silhouette
Standard Ignition
1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.1L Standard Ignition

P311-50D0BD0    PC61  New

147-436 , 147-431 , SU195 , 600-6372 , 235-91046 , 24508212 , 235-1046 , 2CRK0023 , 2-96080 , 12567648 , 10231684 , 71-4839 , SS10212 , S10109 , 213-255 , 22129 , 12550965 , CSS23 , 213-936 , 907-772 , 24506902 , 5S1675

Qty:
$40.17
Standard Ignition Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Crankshaft Sensor
  • 3 Pin Connector Located Behind Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Integrated A/D converter and digital signal processing with a dynamically adaptive switch point improves accuracy and operation. Advanced circuitry protects the system from stray electro-magnetic fields and power spikes. Custom magnetic circuit programming calibrates the sensor while performance testing for improved timing accuracy between the target wheel and sensor output. 100% environmental, endurance and end-of-line testing for Timing, Pulse Width and Signal Amplitude ensures consistent product reliability. Featuring the broadest sensor coverage in the market, we meet the service professionals needs with the highest quality product every time he opens the box. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Oldsmobile Cutlass V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 3097
Standard Ignition
1994 Oldsmobile Achieva Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.1L Standard Ignition

P311-50D0BD0    PC61  New

147-436 , 147-431 , SU195 , 600-6372 , 235-91046 , 24508212 , 235-1046 , 2CRK0023 , 2-96080 , 12567648 , 10231684 , 71-4839 , SS10212 , S10109 , 213-255 , 22129 , 12550965 , CSS23 , 213-936 , 907-772 , 24506902 , 5S1675

Qty:
$40.17
Standard Ignition Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Crankshaft Sensor
  • Front of Engine
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Integrated A/D converter and digital signal processing with a dynamically adaptive switch point improves accuracy and operation. Advanced circuitry protects the system from stray electro-magnetic fields and power spikes. Custom magnetic circuit programming calibrates the sensor while performance testing for improved timing accuracy between the target wheel and sensor output. 100% environmental, endurance and end-of-line testing for Timing, Pulse Width and Signal Amplitude ensures consistent product reliability. Featuring the broadest sensor coverage in the market, we meet the service professionals needs with the highest quality product every time he opens the box. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Oldsmobile Achieva V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 -
True Tech
1999 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor True Tech

P311-4BE2E89    PC123T  New

147-435 , 180-0590 , 22126 , 917-755 , 213-341 , 10456200 , 10456542 , 235-1081 , 10456532 , 5S11478 , 147-433 , 213-339 , 10456292 , 2-96082 , 10456607 , 213-283 , 35079 , 6M9 , 71-4863 , 235-91081 , 10456572 , 5S1695 , 71-5404 , 2CRK0029 , 213-946 , SS10125 , 213-308 , 600-6155 , D8011 , 10497492 , 213-313 , 12596851 , 10456256 , 12562910 , 213-3208 , 147-454 , SU1207VC , SU1396 , SU1207 , S10107

Qty:
$40.54
True Tech Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Crankshaft Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Pin
  • Made from quality components for dependability.
Brand: True Tech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Spectra Premium
1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.3L Spectra Premium

P311-5BBDD92    W0133-1682756  New

Qty:
$37.63
Spectra Premium Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
Brand: Spectra Premium
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera V 6 Cyl 3.3L 204 -
ACDelco
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor ACDelco

P311-2411AD7    W0133-1686363  New

Qty:
$96.77
ACDelco Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Aurora

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Crankshaft Position Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

98 oldsmobile intrigue cranks but wont start ran out of fuel

Showing 2 out of 32 Posts | Show 30 Hidden Posts
Question From XOtheJUGGALO on 98 oldsmobile intrigue cranks but wont start ran out of fuel

I have a 1998 Oldsmobile intrigue my mother-n-law ran it out of gas i filled it up wouldnt start... replaced fuelpump,fuelfilter (both new not used)and cleaned fueltank out and put fresh fuel and still nothing replaced fuel pump relay,battery and cleaned battery cables and again nothing car has been sitting in my driveway for 4months now and i got to get it running cant sell it cause it was my father's before he passed... ¡¡¡¡ PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Keep battery charged till this chapter is found and fixed.


Do you hear pump prime up at all now? If so check for pressure at fuel rail on engine.


Could be just bad luck but may have fuel and not spark? Try priming throttle body with some fuel or gas, assemble the intake ducts quickly and see if it reacts. Is so it still isn't getting proper fuel delivery and may NOT be the pump but no pulse to injectors or a spark issue to check out.


If no sound from pump see if it gets power. It could be a bad pump? They don't like running dry old or new. Double check your work again too,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I replaced the fuelpump after it was ran dry hasn't started since it ran out of gas replaced the distribiter spark plugs n wires its gettn spark no fuel coming out the fuelrail could it be clogged fuel lines? If so how would i blow them out n ive triple checked my work everything is as needs to be i tryed starting it with starter fluid and gas it backfires runs for 2seconds n dies (dosent always start up even with gas and/or starting fluid)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? It was running fine I guess when it ran out of fuel, right? so why more than the fuel pump now? Well it's been sitting for a few (four) months and you pretty well nailed it that it's lack of fuel if it reacts to starting fluid.


Can you hear the pump? Is it getting power to it thru plug? That stuff not everything you can think of. New sock on pick up I hope and you said you cleaned tank? Why? Was that a problem too or make one now?


Just sitting there isn't doing anything any good now. My guess is the job didn't go properly or a bad pump out of the box so far,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I disconnected the three fuel lines from the motor the one on the back of the fuelrail(closest to the firewall) has plenty of gas coming out of the line. the one connected to the front of the fuelrail (closest to the fuel pressure regular ) has no fuel coming out the line at all same with the line connecting to the Vapor Canister Purge Valve witch also connects to the throttle body also battery has been out of car for a couple months i been reading something about a relearning
 Procedure

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fuel out of a line isn't conclusive - you need to know the pressure and if injectors are working too.


I think the "re-learn" you are thinking about is it may not idle well right away or for some time as it lost adapting to itself if you will to hold the same idle and other adjustments based on where they are in the perimeters of things. I don't think you have anything to worry about in an 1998 vehicle..........


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Ill go rent a fuel pressure gauge today but it wont start and its been sitting without a battery so would it still show pressure? And how would i test the injectors is there a way to test them without a noid light? And thanks again for all the help u are giving me i hate to see the car sit

Response From nickwarner

You will need to put a charged battery in this to test pressure. When you turn the key on, the ECM turns on the fuel pump for 2 seconds to prime the system. After that it waits for a signal from the crank sensor to tell it that the engine is cranking.

You will need a noid light to check injector pulse. Don't worry, they are cheap. Parts store that you are renting them from likely even has a set available for rent.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Ok so ive bought brand new battery AGAIN tested fuel pressure heard the pump prime tested the injectors replaced the fuel lines and still nothing cranks but no start already replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor rechecked fuel pump wires even though i heard it priming everything is A okay but just will not turnover

Response From Hammer Time

You're still not running the tests that you are supposed to.

Just hearing the fuel pump isn't good enough. You have to use a gauge.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I understand what u are saying but i have already done the sparkplug test,injector test and fuel pressure test all tested as they should.. when u say "these functions can only be tested the failure" do u mean i should run the three test while i have someone tryn to start the car?

Response From Discretesignals

replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor

You sure your working on a 98 olds intrigue?

Response From Hammer Time

Yeah, I was going to call crap on that one too. I had forgotten seeing that earlier.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Call it as u may that is ur right as an American im not hear to waste ppls time when they're tryn to help others out i was just restating things ive already replaced along with a few newones i have bank statements of everything i have replaced on this car and the tools i have rented to preform the tests so if you or any others think im just here to waste yalls time plz feel free to not reply... now as for the question on am i sure its a 98 Oldsmobile intrigue yes im very sure my farther purchased the car back n 98 i dont have the title was lost n house fire.. ive got the vin# i will email it to u so u can see for urself its a 98 Oldsmobile intrigue "GL" with a factory 3.8 v6 motor (Buick 3.8 v6) with a factory automatic 3.6 transmission anymore questions about the car plz feel free to ask... To the guy who said i need someone to try n start the car while i preform the test thank you Maybe thats why everything tested as it should cuz i would try n start the car over n over then do the test Thank all who have replied to my post you guys are helping me grately srry i dont know much bout these newer front wheel drive car i personal like n only drive old American muscle cars i have a 88 iroc t-top camaro witch i just preformed an LS3 Swap and have a 67 chevelle ss that im in the process of restoring but back to the main topic i will rerun every test while car is being started thanks again to all of u

Response From Hammer Time

Well, if you are sure about the make of the car, then maybe you could explain how you replaced a distributor on a car that doesn't have one.

Ok so ive bought brand new battery AGAIN tested fuel pressure heard the pump prime tested the injectors replaced the fuel lines and still nothing cranks but no start already replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor rechecked fuel pump wires even though i heard it priming everything is A okay but just will not turnover


What was the fuel pressure?
How did you go about testing fuel injectors?
What's a "low pressure sensor"?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - relax - It still needs fuel, spark, compression and on time just like your 67 Chevelle. All things that make a gas engine run are there just done differently.


Fuel pressure is critical to be in spec. 48-55 PSI at the fuel rail with key on engine off and hold for a good while.


Injectors checked with a noid light. Rent or buy whole set for about $25 bucks.


It reacted back at the first couple posts to starting fluid or priming so rule out spark anything till you know why fuel is NOT being delivered which doesn't mean the pump all the time.


Hey - you may have confused a coil pack with a distributor cap. Nothing turns inside those even out of sight.


Again, same basics as your '67 just done differently and fussy about fuel pressure in spec so post results not that you found fuel coming out a line,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Thank you for ur help i have a nother question ive asked ppl at antozone looked online a cant find nothing bout this part i cricled it in this picture (picture was taken when i replaced fuelpump ) and there is also a box under the car next to the gastank neck where fuel is added witch has a couple hoses running from it to that part i circled could this be something that is wrong with it all thr cars ive worked on ive never see nothing like this (im trying to upload thr photo at the moment

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Srry it wont let me upload any photos...

Response From Hammer Time

Upload them to Photobucket and they supply a link to make them show up here.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Fuel pressure: 53psi
Sorry ive been workn alot haven't really had time to do nothing..
When i checked the fuel pressure (while car was being cranked) it was at 53 the whole time after stopping cranking the car pressure stayed at 53 for maybe 3 minutes before slowly dropping to 0psi (dont get how im getting fuel pressure when no fuel is reaching the engine... )
As for the injectors have not had time to retest them

Sorry for the repeating post as for i thought my post where not being posted

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Srry guys lost my phone but wanted to thank all of you for ur help ive since got the car running the coilpacks i bought from autozone where faulty after receiving new one its now running again thank all of u

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome. I'll close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Response From nickwarner

This really sounds like a crank position sensor here. Check for spark and injector pulse. It is normal to see a noid light or spark tester flash once when the key is first turned on, but that is just the ecm doing a quick self-check of various circuits. Also, when the key is turned on your fuel pump is turned on for 2 seconds. But if your injectors are not firing it will not dispense fuel while cranking so your pressure won't drop. The ECM doesn't turn the fuel pump back on after the 2 second prime until it gets a signal from the crank sensor showing that the engine is being turned over.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Post the dang fuel pressure! Do injectors light up a noid light and must if it responded so that whatever thing isn't part of the problem quite yet as it doesn't start, phart or anything yet, T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

http://s105.photobucket.com/user/XOtheJUGGALO/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

Have any idea what this part is or what it dose?

The fuel pressure was at 53psi while car was bring started when turned key off stayed 53 for 1 to 2 minutes before slowly dropping to 0 i dont get how it has pressure &no fuel goin to motor... as for injectors couldn't make it to autostore intime before they closed will let u know tomorrow

Response From Hammer Time

That is part of our EVAP system and has no effect on performance.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Photo link http://s105.photobucket.com/user/XOtheJUGGALO/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m234/XOtheJUGGALO/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg


Dose this have any major thing to do with the car getting gas to motor or have any idea what it dose


Fuel pressure was at 53psi when car was being started after turning key off pressure stayed at 53 for maybe one to two minutes befor slowly dropping down to zero... i do not get how it has fuel pressure when no fuel is coming to the motor. Will update some time tomorrow bout the injectors autopart store was closed before i got off work n didn't have time to rent them

Response From Hammer Time

That test procedure is pretty self explanatory. It means if your problem is intermittent and only fails to start sometimes, then that is the only time it can be tested.

I don't believe you have performed all of that testing or you would have found your problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? What's your question? Of course you test WHILE the problem exists and if it takes a helper to turn the key so be it. Testing things that work properly isn't going to show much that's helpful,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO Top Rated Answer

When i put the battery back in do i have to do the relearning process before i try n start it? And is there away to check the crank sensor without having to remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer and the crankshaft position sensor shield ?

Response From Hammer Time

You won't know if it needs a relearn until you tr to tart it. Do relearn only if you get a flashing security light when trying to start it and that's not very likely.

As for the Crank sensor, you would need a lab scope to do ay testing there.

Response From Hammer Time

Have you tested all the fuses in the car using a test light with the key on?

There is always the possibility that this car never ran out of gas in the first place.

1996 GMC 1500 Sierra 5.0 V-8 245,000 mi.- Engine cranks eratically

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Question From donniew6 on 1996 GMC 1500 Sierra 5.0 V-8 245,000 mi.- Engine cranks eratically

When starting cold, Engine cranks normally once or twice then it acts like something grabs the fly wheel and almost stops rotation, Then will crank normal maybe once or twice then it might start or repeats. I had the battery, Starter checked. They both checked out ok.

Response From nickwarner

Do a voltage drop test on the power and ground sides of the starter circuit. Do you have a multimeter? Are you familiar with this test? If not I can explain it to you. Its actually quite simple.

Response From donniew6

I do have the multimeter, However I am not familiar with this test. Please continue!

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I would replace the crankshaft position sensor. Sounds like the symptoms of one over advancing the timing during cranking. There was a TSB out for that. That can cause damage to the flywheel or even blow the starter nose apart. They can also cause a backfire up through the intake blowing the back of the plastic intake off or blowing the upper intake gasket out.



Found the TSB:

Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback


File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014

Date: April, 2000

TECHNICAL
Subject:
No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During
Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual Noises During Crank, DTC P0338
(Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)

Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L or 7.4 L Engine
(VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)

Condition:
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above

Cause:
A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss.

Correction:
Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).

Notice : When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.

Important : Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.

Response From nickwarner

I really need to finda database for TSBs. I would follow DS's suggestion first, as it seems quite likely this is the issue. If not, what you do for a voltage drop test is simple. Realize that a multimeter on the DC voltage setting is simply telling you the difference between its two probes. If you test the battery voltage, the reading you get between the positive and negative terminals is your charge. For voltage drop, place one lead on the battery positive and the other on the battery cable end of the starter. Crank the starter and watch the meter reading. This test only works on a circuit which is under load. The reading you get is the difference between the two ends of the same cable, which shows you how much was lost between the two points during transfer, called voltage drop. Anything over .3v is cause for concern and needs investigation. You do the same test to the main ground wire in the same manner, with one meter lead on one end of the cable and the other at the battery terminal. This shows the actual conditions of your cables while under load, as a continuity test uses just a few milliamps and won't show the issue to you on something like a battery cable.

You can use this test on all electrical circuits both big and small. Its fast and easy. A cable that looks good to you visually could have a small puncture on the back of its insulation that has let in water and caused corrosion inside the insulation out of view. You could have perfectly clean ends, good battery, good starter, and still won't work. The voltage drop test would show you that issue without takinbg anything apart. I do them on undercharging alternators as the first tests before condemning the alternator. Seen a few that had perfectly good ones get replaced and still no charge due to high resistance in the cable which my multimeter confirmed fast.

If you need this demonstrated to you, go to ericthecarguy.com and check out his videos. He has one specifically about voltage drop testing that could be of use to you and its good knowledge to have.

But first follow that TSB up. You don't want to wreck expensive parts over what could be a $60 sensor.

97 Chevrolet Z71starter drags when engine is operating temperature

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Question From stevieg36 on 97 Chevrolet Z71starter drags when engine is operating temperature

Starts perfect when engine is cold. Changed starter 3 times, all do same thing. New distributor,timing chain and gears, timing set perfect. It has done it since I bought it. Also replaced ground wires and main wire to the starter. I'm ready to throw in the towel. It has a v8 with automatic transmission

Response From Hammer Time

Have you replaced the starter under warranty every time so you are putting the same brand back in?

Response From stevieg36

Yes, all the same. I was thinking about trying a high torque starter.

Response From Hammer Time

Or at least a different brand. There is no such thing as a "high torque" option for any vehicle. If the application requires high torque, all replacements will be engineered the same, although the quality of the rebuild and parts used can be very different

Response From Discretesignals

probably means one of those aftermarket gear reducted starters.

There is a TSB running around for those for slow cranking, broken starters, and back firing. Problem with the crank sensor causing the PCM to advance the timing during cranking putting an ass load of resistance on the starter. Seen one where it broke the nose right off and another where it blew the gasket out of the back of the upper intake when it backfired.

Also when you replace the distributor you have to set the cam shaft offset, so the fuel injection is syncronized properly. You need a scan tool with the option to set the offset. Also when you replace the cranksensor it is a good idea to do a crank angle relearn.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback


File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014

Date: April, 2000

TECHNICAL
Subject:
No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During
Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual Noises During Crank, DTC P0338
(Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)

Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L or 7.4 L Engine
(VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)

Condition:
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above

Cause:
A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss.

Correction:
Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).

Notice : When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.

Important : Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.

Response From Discretesignals

Have you changed the crankshaft position sensor?

Chevy tahoe starter problem

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From vic31_31 on Chevy tahoe starter problem

Hi replaced starter in 96 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 v8 with new remanufactured starter. Starter spinning but not engaging they flywheel. Any advice?

Response From Mr.scotty


Hi replaced starter in 96 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 v8 with new remanufactured starter. Starter spinning but not engaging they flywheel. Any advice?



I would not recommend buying a remanufactured unit.
You might want to spend a little more and buy a good new one.

Response From vic31_31

Took the starter in got it tested it works fine and it is identical to the one I took off. They said it could be a bad connection. I made sure I had good contact on bothe connections. Battery was dead from trying to start it with the old starter. I jumped it with wife's vehicle and starter just spins and does not engage. I read somewhere that the battery not having enough power could cause this so I hooked it up to the charger and will try again. Battery is only about 7 months old if it still doesn't work should I try a new battery?

Response From Discretesignals

Was the old starter that you replaced doing the same thing?

Response From vic31_31

Charged the battery and the starter is turning the motor now but it won't fire and doesn't turn over long before the battery is drained again. try a different battery?

Response From Hammer Time

Charging and testing the battery should have been the first thing you did.

Response From vic31_31

Ignited the battery was ok because it's not very old and this is the first time it's been discharged. I'll get it tested or get a new one to see if it resolves my issue. Thanks to all for the advice so far.

Response From Hammer Time

You can't look for any other issues in the electrical system until you have a known good, fully charged battery.

Response From vic31_31

Battery charged and tested good. Engine turns over for a bit before hearing the loud clunk noise which I believe is coming from the starter again. I'm stumped. May have to break down and have it towed to a mechanic so it doesn't break this starter.

Response From Hammer Time

You may have bigger issues than that.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I'm starting to wonder if this may have the crank sensor problem. With low battery problem and possible crank sensor issue, it could cause the engine to kick back and possibly damage the starter. Some of them could even cause a backfire that blows the intake gasket out. I'd replace the crank sensor just as a precautionary decision.

There is a TSB on this:

Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014

Date: April, 2000

TECHNICAL

Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" DuringCrank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual Noises During Crank, DTC P0338(Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)

Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L or 7.4 L Engine(VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)

Condition:
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above

Cause:

A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss.

Correction:

Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).

Response From vic31_31

No old starter would clunk once in a while then quit. Took it off to find part of the housing had broke off.

Response From Hammer Time

If the starter spins but does not engage the solenoid, it has a bad solenoid, plain and simple. It only has one trigger wire and once energized, both the solenoid and the armature engage so you have either a bad starter or a wrong starter. The wiring is pretty much a "no brainer". The only small purple wire goes on the only small "S" terminal.

Response From Hammer Time

Take it back and get another one. Sounds like the solenoid is bad.

1993 olds cutlass ciera s won't start and stalls

Showing 2 out of 31 Posts | Show 29 Hidden Posts
Question From rose701 on 1993 olds cutlass ciera s won't start and stalls

1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera S-
About 6 months ago I took a short drive (less than 5 miles) - parked the car and 40 minutes later it would crank but not start. That first time I returned to the vehicle about 7 hours later and it started right up. This has happened repeatedly in the last 6 months. It was completely random and the short drive theory went out the window when it would happen after a long drive. I determined that if I waited 15 or 20 minutes that the car would start. I took the car to a local shop and the proprietor told me it could be one of many things - probably a sensor or fuel pump related problem. This after the car started uneventfully all day for him. We decided to just leave it alone and hoped that it was just a fluke and wouldn't happen again.

Four times in the last four days the vehicle just stalled while going down the highway. I pulled over - turned on my flashers - rolled to a stop and the car restarted like there was nothing wrong. Last night the vehicle stalled and would not restart. I waited for a ride and abandoned the vehicle on the roadside. Any theories? The engine is a 3.3 liter (160 hp) V6.



-Thanks, Chris

Response From kenworth_2009

I have a 1993 Olds Cutless Sierra S and I go through the same thing with my car. It is either Oxygen sensor or ECM. Both things can cause your car to stall and shut off. This particular year if you have a v-6 4 door sedan it has two censors on the exhaust system. You can google where it is particularly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good grief man - this thread is from 1997 and you expect anyone to read the whole thing first to answer your specific question. Read forum rules and start your own thread with your own specifics please. Thread locked.

T

Response From Guest

actually, if you unplug your torque converter, a outlet plug looking thing that plugs in the the front bottom of your engine, it won't do it again. What happens is your converter locks when it heats up, so it stalls not when you first start, or sit for a while, but after you've warmed up the car, and tried to hit the brake. trust me, it works on all Olds models that do it

Response From Guest

I appreciate your taking the time to view and respond to my post. It was the crankshaft sensor. Since replacement (almost 2 months ago) this Gremlin has been put to rest.

Response From Guest

I just caught it! I've been running the vehicle all day and stopping it for 30 minute to an hour clips to see if it would restart. Wala! No start. No spark. I put a jumper clip across coil and held it with insulated glove. Do you think I should replace ignition module? Is it possible that it's anything else? -Chris

Response From rose701

just to add. While I was standing there. Spark came back and car started.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You might want to start a new thread on just where you are with this right now,

T

Response From rose701

I apologize for typing these little blurbs that probably did more to confuse than explain. I was just trying to keep you all in the mix and realized that what I was typing didn't really make sense - as your not here to see what's happening. My mechanic was unable to spend too much time with the vehicle prior to the Thanksgiving holiday. I decided to take the care home and try to repair it myself.
I first drove and then idled the car in driveway for several hours - intermittently shutting it down - and re-starting it 20 to 40 minutes later as would be the scenario prior to either the 'won't start' or stalling scenario.
Armed with your advice I listened for the fuel pump to energize. At some point during the day the vehicle would not restart. I pulled one of the plug wires and tested it for spark. There was none. I replaced coil wire - got back in the car and car started. I pulled coil wire again just to make sure I had good spark and that I was doing it correctly. Shut the vehicle down - attempted to restart and no spark again. Won't start - started - won't start all within the time frame of 10 minutes.
At some point during the day while vehicle was idling in driveway - I got a 'service engine soon' light on dash. I drove to auto zone and they hooked up computer. Code was 44 -Oxygen sensor (lean). Keep in mind this was before vehicle wouldn't start in driveway and I discovered the loss of spark.

Guy at auto zone printed out likely culprits. 02 sensor (NOT likely in failure to start scenario) Mass air flow sensor (also NOT likely in failure to start scenario) Ignition Control Module (most likely) given the random nature of the 'no start' and stalling scenarios.

Please let me know what you think. I never would have gotten this far without all your help. Should I replace ICM? Any idea where it is on my vehicle ('93 olds, 3300 V6)? The best I could come up with online was that it was located below the coil. This car has coil packs (3). Is it beneath them? Regards, Chris

FYI - Fuel pump never faultered. Energizing even when there was no spark.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I agree that the ignition control module is most likely. It stinks because the thing is expensive and I'm not sure how it could be tested to be sure it's the problem as it does seem to be intermittent. Quite a while ago I had a car that just wouldn't run (no spark) when below about exactly 20F for 8 full hours but would be fine if started for just a few minutes at four hours like at a lunch break and could go indefinately if garaged. Never could test it out and did replace that ICM and in that one it didn't work. I'll never know with that car as it was traded for a new car the next day after a year of this nonsense when it would just plain work properly at all temps above 20F. Who knows and I don't know if that helps you decide on what to do. That was the module under the coil packs on an 88 Buick Park Ave 3.8 engine,

T

Response From rose701

Hi Tom,
I purchased and installed an ignition control module. Let me cut to the chase. Drove until engine was hot. Stopped at my neighbors to let him
know I thought the problem was fixed and I'd be returning his borrowed car. Got into car and it wouldn't start. Just the same as before. Do you
think I should replace the coil blocks (3)? Thanks, Chris

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Are these separate coil blocks with separate wiring? I can recall just replacing on of three in some of these. In those cases the others kept working and engine was undrivable but it reacted. If you get nothing from any there has to be a common cause likely and not three failures at once. This is like playing black jack when you are counting cards to beat the odds and I hate being wrong but I just don't know how to advise much more on this one. Is anything even looking screwey with wiring connections to these items? Worth a check,

T

Response From rose701

I did check the viability of the wires. They appear healthy. Is it possible the the computer is faulty? I'm inclined to replace the 3 coil blocks and if problem persists - replacing computer. I have noticed that when the car is running I'm getting an acrid (lean) smelling exhaust. I wonder how this might tie into the 'check engine soon' light and the code that came up low O2? It's conceivable that this is part of the original problem or a new one I guess. -frustrated but very much appreciative of yours and everyone elses input. Thanks, Chris

Response From rose701

Yes they are separate blocks each going to 2 plugs.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm at a loss here. They really shouldn't all be bad. They did have to come off to do the module - right. Was there a common wire for each to share? I just can't remember. Looked for the old one that I saved that didn't solve a problem and must have given it away as that was many years ago. Coils that did give me trouble just showed arcing at the towers so diagnosis was easy.

The o2 code really shouldn't be the cause of this at the moment but is probably just sensing the lack of burned gasses goin by it/them at the moment.

A wild shot to try if you want: Unplug the neg battery cable for a few minutes and see if something resets?? Sorry - I'm as frustrated as you are right now. I feel like that guy on the old Airplane movie that said things like " I picked a great day to give up drinking"

T

Response From rose701


Response From Guest

I have the '92 with the same problem. I changed the ICM and the car starts fine, however there is an intermittent misfire now when driving down the road. Perhaps I fouled a plug when the ICM went bad, think I'll change them next.

Response From rose701 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for your input. I installed a new ICM yesterday. Problem still persists. Several of the kind people at this site have suggested the
crankshaft position sensor. I'm going there next . I'll let you know.
-Chris

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I think that's a good bet or the possibility of a common power fault to other stuff that could just shut the works down. Intermittent really stinks as well you know by now. Mr. way2old is on this as you know as best he can. Consider yourself blessed by one of the sharpest knives on the web!!

This thread is all over the place and I'm not going to try to consolodate it now.

Good luck,

T

Response From rose701

So in a perfect world - given the wiring is not compromised - the only things that control the spark are the ICM and the 3 coil blocks? Does the vehicle CPU factor into the equation at all? In other words could a computer problem be sending faulty information to the ICM? -Chris

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Computer could be getting faulty info like from a cam postion sensor/crank sensor and perhaps it thinks the engine isn't turning at all??

AutoZone would show positions and location with perhaps some info on how to tell. I'm alone with you at this point. Wish the others would jump in as you can tell I'm struggling myself as to where to go next with this. A new thread would help once again stating what has already been ruled out,

T

Response From rose701

I finally realize what you meant by starting a new thread. I've just been replying. I'm not very computer savvy and I finally asked my daughter what it meant to start a new thread LOL. So I've done just that and I pray to the automotive God's for intervention. Thanks again for your time and knowledge Tom. Regards, Chris

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bear with me Chris. I'm not too swift with the damn 'puter sometimes either and I'm a moderator here!?!?

I'll try to move the last two up which will if it works shorten the thread so perhaps someone else will also read the post and make a comment about it. Forgive me if this fails and things are lost. The "PM" system here can get me directly and you can find it by clicking on my name above the kitty then lower right corner is the spot to click for sending a private message. Let's hope this works,

T

Response From rose701


Does anyone know where to find the ignition control module on my '93 olds cutlass ciera. Thanks for all your help. -Chris

Response From Guest

Just an FYI. My mechanic was only able to run the car for a half a day before Thanksgiving holiday. It never stalled or coded. I picked car up yesterday and have been driving and running it all day. This morning 'check engine soon' light came on and I brought vehicle to auto zone where the code came up as 'low oxygen'. I'm still hoping vehicle won't start or stalls so I can listen to see if fuel pump is kicking in.

Response From Guest

I just had the exact same thing happen to me today going to Thanksgiving dinner. I have a 92 Cutlass Ciera with the same motor. Please post if you discover the problem, as mine will be towed into the shop tomorrow morning.

Response From Guest

By the way, my fuel pump did engage and disengage when the key was switched to the run position, and I replaced the fuel filter a couple months back.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This about has to call for just tossing some things out as I don't think it will be known exactly what is wrong until it stays broken down.

It's possible a relay could do this and would be cheaper to start there. In the event there are no codes that might help I would just toss the relay for the fuel pump. Trouble with this type of problem is you really won't know if you hit on the right thing until you have ventured out into the asphault jungle enough times without it recurring to be reasonably sure it's solved.

It's tough to tell sometimes when an intermittent problem like this happens if the problem is fuel or spark related. Try to listen for the buzz of the fuel pump when it's down with just key in run position it should buzz and stop. If nothing is heard take note of that. If it stays buzzing away take note of that too. Ya - it's noisy on the side of the road and hard to hear. Got the T-Shirt on that one!

Start with the cheaper stuff and hope it's just that,

T

Response From Guest

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me. Regards, Chris

Response From Guest

yeah i just went through the same problem, mine was the fuel pump. Tom's got that one right 4sure

Response From rose701

Thank you all again. Car is still at the shop. I asked my mechanice to change the FP relay if he didn't find anything else. I figured it would be a good starting point as per your advice.