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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Walker
    Walker

Best Selling Genuine International Crankshaft Position Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Walker
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of International Replacement Crankshaft Position Sensor Parts

Dorman
2006 International 7600 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor - Rear Left Dorman

P311-01D6E3B    904-7021  New

2016615 , 577.99528

Qty:
81.20
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor  Rear Left
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Position
2006 - International 7600 C11 Rear Left
Dorman
2004 International 9400i SBA Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor - Rear Dorman

P311-0E16F81    904-7024  New

1918303 , 577.90507

Qty:
110.62
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor  Rear
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Polymer
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Position
2004 - International 9400i SBA C15 Rear
Dorman
2009 International 5600i Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-0B08CBF    904-7132  New

4921599

Qty:
32.62
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2009 - International 5600i ISX 15.0
Dorman
2008 International 9400i SBA Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-0B08CBF    904-7132  New

4921599

Qty:
32.62
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. ISX 15.0 Packaging Type: Box
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - International 9400i SBA
Dorman
2000 International 4700 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-08BB57B    904-7247  New

8929387 , 577.23505

Qty:
54.95
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2000 - International 4700 Series 50
Dorman
2011 International 4400 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-200FFCF    904-7511  New

577.55544 , 8C3Z12K073A , DU-88 , 1835985C92 , 3C3Z12K073AA

Qty:
32.98
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Plastic; Rubber; Steel
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2011 - International 4400 MaxxForce 9
Dorman
2007 International 3300 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-200FFCF    904-7511  New

577.55544 , 8C3Z12K073A , DU-88 , 1835985C92 , 3C3Z12K073AA

Qty:
32.98
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. DT466 Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Plastic; Rubber; Steel
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - International 3300
Dorman
2011 International 3200 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 7.6L Dorman

P311-200FFCF    904-7511  New

577.55544 , 8C3Z12K073A , DU-88 , 1835985C92 , 3C3Z12K073AA

Qty:
32.98
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. MaxxForce DT Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Plastic; Rubber; Steel
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - International 3200 L 6 Cyl 7.6L 466 -
Dorman
2008 International 4400 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-200FFCF    904-7511  New

577.55544 , 8C3Z12K073A , DU-88 , 1835985C92 , 3C3Z12K073AA

Qty:
32.98
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. MaxxForce 9 Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Plastic; Rubber; Steel
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - International 4400
Dorman
2007 International 4400 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-200FFCF    904-7511  New

577.55544 , 8C3Z12K073A , DU-88 , 1835985C92 , 3C3Z12K073AA

Qty:
32.98
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. DT530 Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Plastic; Rubber; Steel
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - International 4400
Dorman
2006 International 8500 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-200FFCF    904-7511  New

577.55544 , 8C3Z12K073A , DU-88 , 1835985C92 , 3C3Z12K073AA

Qty:
32.98
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. HT570 Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Plastic; Rubber; Steel
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - International 8500
Dorman
2010 International 8500 TranStar Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-200FFCF    904-7511  New

577.55544 , 8C3Z12K073A , DU-88 , 1835985C92 , 3C3Z12K073AA

Qty:
32.98
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. MaxxForce 10 Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Plastic; Rubber; Steel
    • Terminal Type: Pin
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - International 8500 TranStar
Dorman
2007 International 3300 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-4195DD4    904-7516  New

DY-985 , 1828345C91 , 3C3Z6C315AA

Qty:
26.29
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2007 - International 3300 VT365 V 8 Cyl 6.0L 365 -
Dorman
2008 International CF600 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 4.5L Dorman

P311-4195DD4    904-7516  New

DY-985 , 1828345C91 , 3C3Z6C315AA

Qty:
26.29
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. Maxxforce 5 Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - International CF600 V 6 Cyl 4.5L 275 -
Dorman
2009 International MXT Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-4195DD4    904-7516  New

DY-985 , 1828345C91 , 3C3Z6C315AA

Qty:
26.29
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. MaxxForce 7 V8 389CID 6.4L (6369cc) Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - International MXT
Dorman
2006 International 3300 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-2E48F84    904-7516CD  New

3C3Z6C315AA , 577.55508 , 1828345C91

Qty:
22.85
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Packaging Type: Card
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2006 - International 3300 VT365 V 8 Cyl 6.0L 365 -
Dorman
2008 International CF500 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 4.5L Dorman

P311-2E48F84    904-7516CD  New

3C3Z6C315AA , 577.55508 , 1828345C91

Qty:
22.85
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. Maxxforce 5 Packaging Type: Card
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - International CF500 V 6 Cyl 4.5L 275 -
Dorman
2009 International MXT Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Dorman

P311-2E48F84    904-7516CD  New

3C3Z6C315AA , 577.55508 , 1828345C91

Qty:
22.85
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Engine Desg. MaxxForce 7 V8 389CID 6.4L (6369cc) Packaging Type: Card
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Blade
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - International MXT
Dorman
2011 International 4300 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 7.6L Dorman

P311-3503911    917-710  New

3C3Z12K073AA , S10011 , PC645T , CSS1645 , DU-88 , SU8693 , PC645 , 577.55544 , 1835985C92 , 5S7202 , 8C3Z12K073A

Qty:
26.20
Dorman Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Packaging Type: Box
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Connector/Terminal Configuration: Two Cavity - Male
    • Mounting Bracket Included: No
    • Wire Lead Included: No
    • Wiring Harness Included: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2011 - International 4300 MaxxForce DT L 6 Cyl 7.6L 466 -
Walker
Qty:
33.81
Walker Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Walker Products HD 1008-1003 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Crankshaft Position Sensors determine the position of the crankshaft and send this information to the onboard computer. The computer uses this and other inputs to calculate injector on time and ignition system timing.
  • Walker Products HD
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Lead: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • Walker Products began supplying the fuel system needs of the automotive industry in 1946. Today Walker is one of the largest, privately owned manufacturers of fuel system components and engine sensors, and has served the needs of the worldwide automotive aftermarket. We are committed to supplying products manufactured to meet or exceed OEM standards and specifications. This effort is backed by our own manufacturing, product management and engineering staff to ensure it is maintained and accurate in the production of quality parts, vehicle applications, instruction sheets and technical support. Our products include Carburetor and Fuel Injection Repair Kits, Oxygen Sensors and other Engine Management products such as Throttle Position Sensors, Cam and Crankshaft Sensors, Fuel Injectors, Spark Plug Wires and Gaskets. As an ISO 9001/IATF16949 certified company, we are committed to supplying the highest quality products.
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2008 - International 3200 VT365 V 8 Cyl 6.0L 365 -

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Engine Ligth blinking/flashing

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From dhbey on Engine Ligth blinking/flashing

2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser
2.4L engine size.
My car is jerking and the engine light comes on blinking/flashing, then the light stays on for a second or two, and goes back to blinking/flashing. I stopped at Advanced Auto and had them to dx the engine light, and the code is PO339 Crankshaft Position Sensor Intermittent. How do I know what is causing the code? I don't mind getting the crankshaft position sensor replaced, but what about the cause? Last year, I had the PO340 code and had that fixed. Please advise me how to proceed. Thanks.

Response From Discretesignals

You won't know what is causing the code unless you diagnose the problem. Do you have any test equipment and knowledge of repairing drive-ability problems?

Response From kev2

only 1 code - P0339 ? I think there are more codes....

2 thoughts -
1) did you get the CMP from Chrysler?
2) blinking CEL - do a fuel pressure and pressure leak down test- an abundance of caution Ck eng oil

A scanner will make this easier - look at FT's and the CMP voltages...

Response From dhbey Top Rated Answer

@ kev2
That was the only code that was given to me, not from Chrysler but from Advance Auto. I thought it might be the engine oil too b/c I just got an oil change, and my car sounded "rough"under the and next thing I know, the engine light started blinking and car stalling. Just lastnight, I was accelerating, and it went out (internal and external lights still on), but I had to restart the car and drove with the CEL still blinking.

Response From Hammer Time

CEL lights only blink when the computer sees a misfire severe enough to damage the catalytic and that usually coincides with a misfire code being stored in the computer.

Response From dhbey

@ Hammertime:
I just got back home from having a dx again. This time my CEL was not blinking, but it remained on. During the dx, the misfire code was reported as pO300. Does this help?

Response From Discretesignals

If your getting a crank sensor intermittent code, you really shouldn't dive too deep into troubleshooting misfire codes and focus first on the crank sensor code. A faulty crank sensor signal can cause erronious misfire codes to show up. A failing crank sensor or screwy crank sensor signal can also cause misfiring, no starts, and stalling. Just a heads up.

Response From dhbey

@ Discretesignals
The no start is exactly what I experienced Monday night. I was strained at Walmart. I left the car there for 2 hours, came back to get it and drove it straight to the shop. They fixed the crankshaft issue, yesterday. I should be good to go this morning.
Thank you all for your knowledgeable input. I was able to communicate to the correct people what I needed. Thanks!! Have a great day!

Response From Hammer Time

That code isn't going to be much help because it's not very specific. It just means "Random Misfire" without identifying a specific cylinder or cylinders.

Response From kev2

I suggested checking engine oil - to see if fuel is accumulating in the oil pan, sometimes the result of a injector*
issue and very damaging ....

* flashing CEL.

Response From dhbey

@ Discretesignals
No, I don't have any testing equipment or knowledge of repairing drive-ability problems.

Response From Hammer Time

I would expect there to be more codes in there. I wouldn't expect the P0339 to cause a flashing CEL.

89 Z24 starting probems

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From badsam56 on 89 Z24 starting probems

Year of vehicle 1989
Make of vehicle Chevrolet
Model of vehicle Cavalier
Engine size 2.8 V6
Mileage/Kilometers 145K

I have a Z24 that refuses to start. I have checked with a tester and it has no spark. It was internment problem that would only show up after driving a distance. I suspected heat soak and changed the coil packs and controller. I still get no spark, so I ran the line looking for any abrasions and found none. I then decided to try another computer and I still have the same problem. I'm not very familiar with the OBD-1 system and could use any suggestions on what to try next.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

I assume by controller ,you mean the ignition control module that the coil packs mount to..correct?
I suspect the crankshaft position sensor and or wiring......
The module must receive a cranking signal from the sensor to fire the coils.
If you have access to a scan tool with data stream capabilities,check for cranking rpm.....

What line did you "run"?

Response From badsam56

I ran the wiring from the control module to the computer and sensors. I unraveled the snake and checked for shorts, plus I ran a short tester in the line to look for resistance. All check OK.

Yes the controller is the module the Coil Packs mount to. I also ran a diagnostic on the crack sensor 1st thing, just didn't mention it. The crank sensor checks with an Ohm meter. There may be a better way to confirm it working and I'm willing to give it a shot.

Response From Double J

Sensor should ohm out at between 900 -1200 ohms...

I assume there is no cranking rpm.....disconnect ignition module 2 pin connector,turn igntion on,connect a test light between harness terminals.<< if light is off>>,connect test light from harness terminal "B" to ground, light on= repair open in ground ckt 450.
>,= repair open in ignition feed circuit 439.

Now,back after checking 2 pin earlier,if light on- disconnect crank sensor 3 way connector from ignition module,with ohm meter in 2k ohms position,probe harness terminals A & C ( should read between 900 -1200 ohms-
If not ok...less than 900 ohm,sensor leads shorted together or a faulty crank sensor-if greater than 1200 - open sensor ckt faulty connection or faulty sensor.
If ok.set volt meter on 2 volt ac position,crank engine and observe voltage reading. reading should be greater than .1 volt (100mv)...is it?...if yes.replace the module- if no faulty connection or faulty sensor.

Hope that makes sense and helps you...let me know

Response From badsam56

OK, by the way you're saying to check the crank sensor I should have a (900 to 1200 ohms) reading? I didn't have that as I check the system by spining the engine and watching the meter indicate #1 as I thought it did on these old systems. No wonder I'm confused. I get a 0 ohms reading without the engine spinning. Thanks, this will probably find the problem as I was thinking the crank sensor was fine. Learn something new every day.



Sensor should ohm out at between 900 -1200 ohms...

I assume there is no cranking rpm.....disconnect ignition module 2 pin connector,turn igntion on,connect a test light between harness terminals.<< if light is off>>,connect test light from harness terminal "B" to ground, light on= repair open in ground ckt 450.
>,= repair open in ignition feed circuit 439.

Now,back after checking 2 pin earlier,if light on- disconnect crank sensor 3 way connector from ignition module,with ohm meter in 2k ohms position,probe harness terminals A & C ( should read between 900 -1200 ohms-
If not ok...less than 900 ohm,sensor leads shorted together or a faulty crank sensor-if greater than 1200 - open sensor ckt faulty connection or faulty sensor.
If ok.set volt meter on 2 volt ac position,crank engine and observe voltage reading. reading should be greater than .1 volt (100mv)...is it?...if yes.replace the module- if no faulty connection or faulty sensor.

Hope that makes sense and helps you...let me know

Response From Double J

Cool

Lets us know how you make out.

BTW..
Cool Avatar


Jim

Response From badsam56

I may have misdiagnosed this problem and thanks Jim for putting me back on track. The voltage to the coil module is OK, so that checks. The crank sensor is another story as it seems to be dead. I get no Ohms reading at all when checking it. I also have another question I'm thinking might be related. The tach will not register when real cold, but as the engine warms it would begin to work again. If the tach get a reading feed from the crank sensor this might confirm the problem as bing there and the if higher voltages forced the ignition to work yet not enough to signal, it just make diagnosing easier. What do you think?

Sam

Response From badsam56

Thanks on the avatar. Also TY on the possible fix. I'm going to try it the 1st chance I get. In fact this car is taking on a new persona, from run around town car to a possible NHRA Stock class racer. In pure stock form it has gone 16.30 @ 95 mph. The record in the class is open and I have my tricks to up the ponies. BTW I'm not a GM mechanic and don't mind any advice. I am a MOPAR/ASE Certified mechanic/machinist or should I say was one before I retired. So I'm on a new learning curve with this baby. A Z24 convertible all black, but in need of a lot of TLC!

Thanks again Jim!!!! I'll post how I came out on it.

2000 chevy Malibu cranks but won't start

Showing 9 out of 12 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From sjwanderer on 2000 chevy Malibu cranks but won't start

I have a 2000 Malibu LS 6 cyl w/ about 105k on it that will not start. Cranks over like crazy and will not start, currently. But that I think is only one symptom of many for a single problem which I believe to be a wiring issue but need some more direction. So let me describe what has been going on over the last 18 months or so.

* First notice in the colder months the ABS light would come on when braking. Thought it was just ice on the road messing with it because they still worked.
* Shortly, within days, when braking notice the lights would dim both internal and external, blower fan would slow and sometimes the radio would cut out.
* I changed the battery out because as the previous one was being tested they hooked it up incorrectly and exploded it even though they said it was 'good'.
* about one month after I changed the battery and cables the car would crank over but not start occasionally. Wait a minute and then it would start. No theft light and only waited 30-60 seconds and it would start right up.
* After doing this for about 6 months, June now and hot outside, the car just wouldn't start one morning. No theft light and no error codes in the computer.
* I started just poking and prodding at it with a meter and o-scope and found nothing wrong according to the chiltons manual.
* One day after a couple of weeks of tearing into this thing it just started. So I left the car running and got out to think what I had just done and find the final answer. As I stood there contemplating the future of the car I heard a click, kind of like a relay kicking out, and it died and would not start again for about three days.
* This random start and then stop, with the click, continued over the weeks while I replaced the ICM, coil pack and ignition switch.
* Finally replaced the Crankshaft position sensor that was between the block and transmission. It started and ran, no click and die. Kept trying it in the mornings and afternoon after some days I decided this was the fix so I started driving it again.
* A month or two later the power drain started again then one day it died and was starting to dig it's own hole as the whole process started over. I of course started with CP sensor and wiring.
* I finally broke down and sent it to a shop and after $700 and a new ignition switch, claiming it was the anti-theft system although the light never came on but it ran so OK, I guess.
* about 7 months later summer again it died and would not start
* I ignored the car for the most part but every week or two I would try it without really trying to 'fix' it. After about 6 weeks it started and kept running with out issues
* after a few days of trust exercises I started to drive it normally again about a week ago it died again.

Here is what I've learned:
- First my car likes me because it has always died in my driveway or my garage after sitting for at least a few days but as much as two weeks.
- If the key cylinder is removed a 3/8th inch extension can be used to start the car and will work in place of the key.
- attempting to bypass the anti-theft system is a waste of time as that is not the cause at least not that the computer acknowledges.
- The power drain issue usually disappears a few days before it dies.

A friend had recommended I try the alternator but that doesn't sound right and I have tried a computer out of a car in a junk yard but if this was a cracked board you would think that during the cool nights it would start but maybe not during the hot days or very cold days. Also what about that relay click during the first session when I heard that I started rotating relays with a new one in the mix on the first go around. ANY Thoughts would be very helpful. Thanks, SJ

Response From Discretesignals

When it dies and doesn't want to start again you need to check these things.

Does it have fuel pressure? You have to connect a fuel pressure gauge up.

Does it have spark? You can use an inline spark tester or equivalent.

If you have a code reader can you communicate with the PCM?

Once you find out what is missing, then you can diagnose that system to isolate the problem.

HT beat me to the punch...copy and paste function works great..

Response From sjwanderer

As I mentioned no codes in the computer and yes it does communicate with the PCM as I can generate a code by pulling the airbag fuse and get the codes for that. For the rest see my previous reply. As I seem to have done all the standard troubleshooting mentioned and made sure I covered my bases covered in the copied and pasted messages. Sorry, I understand for the replies but a little frustrated too.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

No spark as I hope I pointed out but might have missed.

Its cool you have a scope and know how to use it. That comes in handy diagnosing your issue.

No spark on all cylinders? Pull a coil off the ignition module and check for battery voltage on one of the pins with the ignition on.

Response From sjwanderer

Ok, first it is dark out so the head lamps came on automatically. And here is some info that might help...

before I did anything I tried to start it no luck. turned ignition all the way off. Pulled the 2-5 coil. Accidentally turned key all the way over and engine started. Turned off all the way and measured voltage at coil pins. 12v on one and .6 on the other between engine block. .38v between the two pins. Coils are only about 8 months old but????

Response From sjwanderer

Forgot to mention a couple of things before I pulled the coil I had no spark on any of the cylinders. As I mentioned earlier I was able to try a new ICM in an earlier post but managed to get the part store to take it back for store credit so the one on there is original w/ the car. I was unable to continue working on the car as the neighborhood nazi was making sure I was not working on the car after the rules allow so I couldn't put the coil back on and test but will try tomorrow and even swap the coils around and see if I get the same results.

I'm starting to think that it is one of three things: one of the new coils, the ICM or the PCM, any thoughts?

oops didn't see your post before I did this so I will post more information tomorrow thanks for the schematic that helps a lot.

Response From Discretesignals

Read the post above.

Response From sjwanderer

Back on hold as after I put it all back together again it started up without issue so I guess I have to wait until it dies again. At least if it doesn't die in the driveway I have towing coverage.

Response From Discretesignals

The pin that doesn't have power is used by a transistor in the module to complete the coil circuit to ground. There is a transistor for each coil.

The transistor is controlled by the logic in the ignition module. The ICM recieves a 7x signal from the crank sensor you changed on the back of the engine. The ICM not only uses that signal to time the transistor to fire, but also converts that 7x signals to a 3x signal that is sent to the PCM. The 7x sensor is a PM generator and as you know generates an ac voltage. Be sure the twisted yellow and purple pair didn't find its way into the exhaust manifold or egr feed tube.

During cranking the logic in the ICM controls the transistors. Once the idle speed comes up high enough the PCM grounds 5 VDC bypass circuit that closes another transistor in the ICM. This transistor closes a circuit that allows the PCM to take control of the ignition timing and dwell.

Just to let you know, the ICM will fire the coils while cranking even if the PCM is unplugged. That's unless there is a bypass problem where the bypass is stuck closed and allowing the PCM take control (very rare).

You have to make sure you check this when the problem is occurring, of course.




Response From sjwanderer

I have only checked a couple of cylinders for spark and as I recall do have battery voltage at the coils, but will check all coils and cylinders again as it has been a few months since I checked them. thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From sjwanderer

No spark as I hope I pointed out but might have missed. I also have injector pulse as I put an Oscilloscope on it to measure amplitude and width (yes I happen to have one laying around from engineering school). Fuel pressure is good, and so is compression. Like I mentioned it has to be some sort of wiring problem but not sure where to start troubleshooting as all the signals that the Chiltons manual says should be there are.