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Best Selling Genuine Mercury Coolant Temperature Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including NTC - TAMA, Motorcraft
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mercury Replacement Coolant Temperature Sensor Parts

We stock Coolant Temperature Sensor parts for most Mercury models, including Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Sable, Villager.

NTC - TAMA
1994 Mercury Villager Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor NTC - TAMA

P311-4F050AA    W0133-1628191  New

Qty:
$38.88
NTC - TAMA Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: NTC - TAMA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Mercury Villager
NTC - TAMA
1993 Mercury Villager Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor NTC - TAMA

P311-4F050AA    W0133-1628191  New

Qty:
$38.88
NTC - TAMA Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 04/1992-
Brand: NTC - TAMA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1993 - Mercury Villager Fr:04-00-92
NTC - TAMA
1996 Mercury Villager Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor NTC - TAMA

P311-4F050AA    W0133-1628191  New

Qty:
$38.88
NTC - TAMA Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/1995
Brand: NTC - TAMA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1996 - Mercury Villager To:08-00-95
Motorcraft
1998 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Motorcraft

P311-59FF4FB    W0133-1942825  New

Qty:
$33.08
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Rectangular Connector with 2 Flat Pins
  • Screw-in Threaded Type
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mercury Grand Marquis
Motorcraft
2005 Mercury Sable Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Motorcraft

P311-59FF4FB    W0133-1942825  New

Qty:
$33.08
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Screw-in Threaded Type
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2005 - Mercury Sable GAS OHV
Motorcraft
1996 Mercury Mystique Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 4 Cyl 2.0L Motorcraft

P311-59FF4FB    W0133-1942825  New

Qty:
$33.08
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Engines built before 10/28/98
  • Screw-in Threaded Type
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Mercury Mystique L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1989
Motorcraft
2005 Mercury Mariner Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 6 Cyl 3.0L Motorcraft

P311-4EBEFF1    W0133-1952900  New

Qty:
$45.17
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Push-in Type
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mercury Mariner V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Motorcraft
1986 Mercury Cougar Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 4 Cyl 2.3L Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
$75.00
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Mercury Cougar L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 -
Motorcraft
1987 Mercury Topaz Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
$75.00
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Stamped #E4AF12A648AA
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery Type
1987 - Mercury Topaz FI
Motorcraft
1987 Mercury Lynx Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 4 Cyl 1.9L Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
$75.00
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Stamped #E1AF12A648AA
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Mercury Lynx L 4 Cyl 1.9L 116 -

Latest Mercury Repair and Coolant Temperature Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 Mercury Tracer 2.0 liter engine

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 1999 Mercury Tracer 2.0 liter engine

I purchased my car from my in-laws who had the car completely tuned up from filters to fluids, spark plugs too. Still the car starts rough.
The car only has 31000 miles on it. A co-worker who used to be a mechanic suggested it might be the coolant temperature sensor causing the problem.
He believes this model had an issue with them. Where on the engine is the sensor located? I know they're only about $20.00 at a parts store and I would rather replace it myself than pay someone to do it. Can this also effect fuel mileage? I'm only getting about 20 mpg. I should be getting 24-28 mpg. Can anyone help?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Sensor should be near thermostat at the engine side of upper radiator hose. T

2000 mercury sable, won,t start

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From stcigars on 2000 mercury sable, won,t start

drove car into shop to swap altanater out due to dead battery problem.when reinstalling replacement unit.leads for crank sensor got snaged , got a pig tail kit and repaired connection. pcm is seeing crank sen , also has fuel . plugs are not firing, fuses are good ,12 volts at each coil plug. s code v-6 eng over head cams.

Response From Discretesignals

How do you know there is a crank sensor signal getting to the PCM? Are there any trouble codes stored in the PCM? If so, what are the numbers? While your cranking the engine is the check engine light lit while the engine is cranking?
Usually if the PCM sees an rpm signal it will turn off the check engine light while the engine is cranking.

Response From stcigars

first, thankyou for your time. yes check engine lite goes out when you crank enginge
after cranking a few seconds and not starting check engine lite comes back on and stays on. until you try to start again , no codes in the pcm. where can i get a print ,digrahm with locations of relays , modules and a print that works. the (typical) one which shows a coil pack instead of 6 coils like the sabel has. if I do'nt belong to a club to get one.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

There is just too much information to put in here to show you where each and every component is including all the wiring schematics. You best bet would be to get a subscription to something like AlldataDIY. It's not really expensive and you get to keep the subscription for a whole year.

Was this running before you did your alternator replacement? Did it have any running issues prior? How did you damage the crank sensor harness? The starter isn't anywhere near the crank sensor.

Just out of curiosity unplug the engine coolant temperature sensor and see if the engine will start.

Response From Hammer Time

Test all your fuses with a test light. If the coil drivers aren't working you could have a fuse issue for the PCM.

Coolant Temperature Sensor Help! : ).

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From danny20danny on Coolant Temperature Sensor Help! : ).

Hi all. I will be as detailed as I can..

2007 mercury milan 3.0L v6 sedan
Engine fan only turns on and runs if 2 wire connector to coolant temperature sensor is unplugged.

So when with connector plugged into the coolant temp sensor I turn on the engine. Fan never starts. Coolant level is fine. If I unplug the connector from the sensor the fan turns on and runs continually on high.

Let's test the sensor..
removed sensor and hooked it up to multimeter. on 200k ohms setting it reads 28.8
When lowered into boiling water resistance immediately drops like it is supposed to.. goes down to 4.5 / 4.4 and stops.

Let's test the sensor while installed to make sure hot coolant is running across it...
installed sensor / hooked up multimeter: sensor reads 28.8
Started engine / sensor resistance drops from 28.8 down to 4.3 ( looks like coolant is flowing )

problem persists

Lets check connector pins ( wire leading to sensor )
right side reads 5.5 volts
left side on multimeter ground setting gives tone indicating ground and reads 0.00
looks good

Maybe the pins in the sensor are not making a solid connection inside the connector?.

inserted paper clips solidly in the connector ports and attached alligator clips to each of them...
clipped other side of alligator clips directly to the 2 corresponding male prongs on the sensor.

Started engine. With engine running lowered sensor into a cup of boiling water ( to see if it works with an absolutely sure connection to the connector ).

Nothing...

Took another paper clip and placed it across 2 of the alligator clips to simulate the circuit connecting ( like it is supposed to when the sensor resistance is lowered )...

Fan turned on and ran on high.

I then purchased a Brand New coolant temperature sensor and ran through this entire process again with the new sensor.

problem persists.

Okay. If I know the sensor's resistance is lowering to allow the connection, shouldn't that be causing the same result as me physically closing the circuit with a paperclip and thus starting the fan?. What is happening inside the sensor other than to points connecting when resistance is lowered?.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in Advance

Danny in Michigan
the fan?.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Is the engine overheating at stops? Not sure what your trying to figure out here. Do the fans come on with the air conditioning on? Where there any trouble codes stored before you started testing and unplugging stuff?

If the fans come on when you unplug the sensor, you just eliminated wiring, ECU's ability to turn on the fans, the fan controller, and the fan motors themselves. Luckly your not jumping paper clips on 5 volt power supply circuits and shorting them to ground cause you could fry the engine controller's 5 volt regulator if it doesn't have that great of circuit protection. Shoving paper clips into the terminal side of a connector isn't a good thing to do either because now you probably have spread open terminals, which will cause connection problems. If your going to check circuits at the connectors, use a back probe.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just some notes where your test will fail. It will probably (switch) do it's tricks at higher than 212F boiling point for fan? Hard to do without putting water under pressure or use another liquid that wont harm anything for testing.


Tough call. Fire is going to wreck it for testing. Perhaps careful use of a heat gun, maybe hair dryer would get higher temps with air on it - heat gun a definite just don't want to wreck it if not the problem.


Seriously - cooling systems are under pressure and switches for fans and things are frequently above boiling points when they are supposed to work. With heated anti-freeze you still can only get up to about 5 more degrees without pressure before boiling.

Other: These temp sensitive OHM switches of sorts I find if ohms change at all thru the temps they are NOT the problem but rather a connector is more likely,


T

95 Merc Grand Marquis wont stay running until warm

Showing 2 out of 29 Posts | Show 27 Hidden Posts
Question From bigjohn on 95 Merc Grand Marquis wont stay running until warm

1995
Mercury
Grand Marquis
4.6 engine
136,000

Yes this is the same car that last week blew a stoplight fuse and wouldn't shift out of Park due to a interface system between the brakes and the transmission.

Well the car was just fine for 2 days and Saturday morning when leaving town for Christmas the car wouldn't stay running until it warmed up, and again this morning it did the same thing. After discussing this over an eggnog or two with a nephew that is somewhat car savy it was suggested/ guessed that it might have something to do with the Mass Airflow Sensor, is this possible or what do you think? My problem is that it's a 95 and I understand you can't scan for this problem.

BigJohn

Response From Hammer Time

Is your check engine light coming on at all?

Response From bigjohn

Hammer Time:

NO

Response From Hammer Time

I would first check for any vacuum leaks or leaks in the intake snorkel and then get a fuel pressure gauge and see what the fuel pressure is when this happens.

Response From bigjohn

I looked for any loose or cracked/ broken vacuum lines, nothing. It has what the guy at the auto parts store called an OB2 computer system but no codes are stored. I'm not familiar with your term "intake snorkel" what and where is this? I did find a plug wire that had only one side of the clip snugged down to the coil pack but this happened well into the warm up time and I'm not sure if it helped to push the plug wire further on or if it was the spreading of the warmth that caused it to run better. I'll let it cool down and check to see if any improvements have occurred.

I might add that this all started just after I filled up with gas for the trip the night before at Sams Club, I'm thinking that it would keep on if the gas was bad and as for water in the batch of gas all the ethanol in the gas we buy should take care of that.

Response From Hammer Time

Lety me know when you have the fuel pressure reading.

Response From bigjohn

Hammer Time:

Well I got myself a fuel pump pressure tester and went ahead and tested my pressure it read 32 to 33 PSI at an idle. Now what?

The items I've had mentioned to me to consider as the problem are the Mass Air Flow Sensor, The Idle Air Control Valve ( IAC ) , or the Coolant Temp. sensor, How can I eliminate any of these?

Response From Hammer Time

Was the car acting up while you were checking the pressure?

Response From bigjohn

It was partially warmed up and it would stay running in park, but if I tried to shift it into gear without racing the engine it would have died.

I could try it again when it's completely cold, that's when it runs the poorest. In the morning I have to take my wife to the hospital for treatment and I'll be home about noon, I'll let it cool for a couple hours and then test it about 2:30 PM Central Time and post right after. Let me know if you don't need me to do this.

Response From Hammer Time

That could be your problem. That is about 7 to 10PSI below what it should be.

Key On Engine Off 35 - 40 psi Key On Engine Running 30 - 45 psi
When you accelerate it should get higher and if it doesn't, you will get symptoms as you describe. I would try pinching off the return line momentarily and that should cause the pressure to spike well over 50PSI. If it doesn't, then it would mean the pump is maxed out at the lower pressure.

Response From bigjohn

Hammer Time:

I can't locate the return fuel line you mentioned I should pinch, can you guide me? Also the Idle Air Control Valve is eluding me, I just cant find anything that looks like the online pictures I've seen. I did find the coolant temp sensor it appears to be located on the intake 2 inches behind and 2 inches over from the alternator.

Response From Hammer Time

There are 2 lines going to the fuel rail, one in, one out. The out is the smaller of the 2. There are 2 fuel lines going all the way back to the tank.

Here is the IAC

Response From bigjohn

Hammer Time:

Well the Ford garage replaced the IAC and it turned out to not be the problem. They say the butterfly in the throttle body is working just fine, the fuel pressure as measured by there computer is just fine, and they want to replace the PCM to the tune of $400. and they when I asked hedged about who pays if they are wrong and the PCM doesn't fix it. What would you do? I forgot to mention the Mass Air Flow Sensor showed 20 ma low when tested by them but they say that's not the problem as it runs good when warm.

Response From Hammer Time

I*'d tell them to stand behind their diagnosis and if it doesn't fix the problem, they can put it back on their shelf.

Response From bigjohn

I'm considering replacing the PCM/ECM myself, and I have some questions. I located the PCM Connector just below and to the right of the master cylinder, must you remove the connector and then go under the dash and remove the PCM from the inside?

Response From bigjohn Top Rated Answer

Well I finally got sick of the stalling and restarting and got serious about replacing the ECM, as it was proven it wasn't the Mass Airflow sensor, the IAC, or the coolant temperature sensor. I just couldn't believe that I had to send in the current mileage and VIN number to get a properly programed ECM, so I call both the Cardone and Borg Warner factories and talked to tech's that both told me the ECM came factory programed to run right out of the box and no information specific to my car was needed! One of the tech's told me to call the Ford dealer with my VIN and they gave me the factory part number that is no longer serviced by Ford, and that saved me removing the ECM to take a number off it before I had the part and was ready to change it! I purchased the part for less than $100 including tax and 2nd day air shipping from one of the major discount auto parts stores, and I had the part in and the car running great in 26 min.

Big John

Response From bigjohn

It turns out the IAC was the major part of the problem, The tech at a local Ford garage found it causing RPM 1/2 of spec. and improved its operation with some cleaning but I've ordered a new one. In addition to the IAC he found the Mass airflow sensor to be operating 20 HZ below spec., That part I've delayed purchasing until I have the new IAC installed.

Response From bigjohn

Starting it cold I got about 13 to 14 psi, but the gauge leaked a little so that may have affected my results. Do you think I should replace the fuel filter and cross my fingers and hope it improves?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't think it would run at all at that pressure so IMO that's just not a good reading. Try just key on, engine off as you should test it both ways but need to know at least that much.

Rumor has it some major parts outlets rent pressure gauges - IDK as I never have rented a tool. If that tool is NG get another or if it's you not using it properly learn how it's supposed to work,

T

Response From bigjohn

My cheap gauge isn't working properly and no one rents on in the area, time for plan B get it checked at a local shop.

Response From bigjohn

I found the two lines, they are both the same size but what worries me the most is they have tubing that has hardened and wont allow me to squeeze without damaging. Another issue the rubber tubing slides back and forth on the steel tubes that it couples to, there is a system of plastic clamps that have very small zip ties holding the tubing on to the steel but one of the zip ties is broken.

Response From Hammer Time

Those a push/lock connectors. Don't worry, they aren't coming apart.

Response From bigjohn

Keep in mind I got my fuel pump pressure tester from Harbor Freight. I'll try pinching the return line if I can locate it. Would a fuel pump go out instantly like this, as we had no symptoms the day before and then wham it wont stay running?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can any electric anything just quit - yes. Fuel pumps don't like getting hot which can happen when fuel level is low or worse running out.

Laugh on your Harbor Freight comment. No walk in stores around here but used to get some assorted junk from them - talk about cheap!

T

Response From way2old

Try giving the car a little gas when you start it. If it continues to run, I would suspect the Air Idle Control Valve. You can also try turning the key to the "on" position about 3 times before you start it. If it starts easily and stays running, the fuel pump is either starting to get weak or the fuel filter may be starting to plug.

Response From bigjohn

The fuel filter was replaced about 1 year ago, and the old one was in place for 15 years. Not to say it's impossible but it doesn't seam likely.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fuel filter: The ethanol in gas in most places has chiefly stopped the gas stations from filtering fuel before you pump it AND it does suspend junk in the station's tanks rather than just sit on the bottom so you are now relying on your own fuel filter more than ever.

Nobody is (well never say never) adding water on purpose to "cheat" as gas stations but plain condensation gets in tanks (theirs) and pre ethanol days we used to "stick" tanks with a paste that showed how much water was at the bottom and at a certain level then you called a special truck to take out the junk on the bottom. Certain junk isn't even water but just junk of who knows what from handling, delivery and deteriorating tanks.

You said this began with one fill up so it's suspect. Good grief for the cost of a fuel filter just replace it anyway and dump out the car's inlet side into a clean glass jar and look! You may be shocked.

I've seen the junk from working at full serve gas stations pool before it drains past the flapper meant to prevent use of "leaded" gas into unleaded vehicles back in those old days and shocked to see the junk!

Best then and now and to this day will NOT fuel up if the gas station is getting fuel as it's really mixing the mess up like classic Italian salad dressing when you shake the bottle.

It's not a guess - I've seen it so rule that out now that you have a problem,

T

Response From bigjohn

I'm going to Harbor Freight in the morning to purchase a fuel pressure gauge and I'll let you know the results. I let the engine cool again and the problem remains.

Response From bigjohn

Sure I'll do my best to check into that, I do know that the 3 rubber shock mount bolts are broken on the air intake box.

P.S. the car runs fine when warm on two occasions I warmed it up and then drove over 200 miles!