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Best Selling Genuine Ford Coolant Temperature Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Motorcraft, Vemo
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Ford Replacement Coolant Temperature Sensor Parts

Motorcraft
2015 Ford Transit-150 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 5 Cyl 3.2L Motorcraft

P311-10F9BBA    W0133-1998425  New

Qty:
58.07
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Ford Transit-150 L 5 Cyl 3.2L 195 -
Motorcraft
2017 Ford F-550 Super Duty Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 8 Cyl 6.7L Motorcraft

P311-10F9BBA    W0133-1998425  New

Qty:
58.07
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Location-Coolant Hose
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Ford F-550 Super Duty V 8 Cyl 6.7L 406 6651
Vemo
1993 Ford Aerostar Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Ford Aerostar
Motorcraft
1993 Ford Aerostar Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
71.55
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Ford Aerostar
Vemo
1985 Ford E-250 Econoline Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 8 Cyl 5.8L Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; Under 8,500Lbs. GVW
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Ford E-250 Econoline Extended Cargo Van V 8 Cyl 5.8L 351 5753
Motorcraft
1985 Ford F-250 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 6 Cyl 4.9L Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
71.55
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Under 8,500Lbs. GVW
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Ford F-250 L 6 Cyl 4.9L 300 4917
Vemo
1992 Ford Ranger Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; with Rounded Connector with 2 Round Pins
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Ford Ranger
Motorcraft
1995 Ford Ranger Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
71.55
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; with Rounded Connector with 2 Round Pins
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Ford Ranger
Vemo
1988 Ford Bronco Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; Stamped #E4AF12A648AA
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Ford Bronco
Motorcraft
1988 Ford Bronco Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
71.55
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Stamped #E4AF12A648AA
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Ford Bronco
Vemo
1989 Ford Country Squire Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; Stamped #E1AF12A648AA
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Ford Country Squire
Motorcraft
1987 Ford EXP Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
71.55
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Stamped #E1AF12A648AA
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Ford EXP
Vemo
1999 Ford Expedition Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; with Rounded Connector with 2 Round Pins
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Ford Expedition
Motorcraft
2000 Ford Expedition Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Motorcraft

P311-46FBE21    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
71.55
Motorcraft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; with Rounded Connector with 2 Round Pins
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Ford Expedition
Vemo
1985 Ford Tempo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; Stamped #E4AF 12A648-AA
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type
1985 - Ford Tempo GAS FI
Vemo
1996 Ford F-350 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 8 Cyl 5.8L Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; with Eddie Bauer Package
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Ford F-350 V 8 Cyl 5.8L 351 5753
Vemo
1985 Ford LTD Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 8 Cyl 5.0L Vemo

P311-2EF86B7    W0133-1930106  New

Qty:
20.18
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; Stamped #E1AF 12A648-AA
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery Type Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Ford LTD FI V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Vemo
2003 Ford Escort Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Vemo

P311-3953871    W0133-1896575  New

Qty:
15.54
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Ford Escort
Vemo
1999 Ford Contour Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 4 Cyl 2.0L Vemo

P311-3953871    W0133-1896575  New

Qty:
15.54
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; with Clip in Style to Retain the Sensor
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Ford Contour L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1989
Vemo
2004 Ford Focus Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Vemo

P311-3953871    W0133-1896575  New

Qty:
15.54
Vemo Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • ; with Clip Use to Retain Sensor
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2004 - Ford Focus 5

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2000 ford explorer high idle problem

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From pinhead_862002 on 2000 ford explorer high idle problem

i own a 2000 ford explorer with a 4 liter sohc since spring it has started idling high between 600 to 1500 rpms i have replaced the maf sensor, throttle positioning sensor, and the iac valve. none fixed the problem. i get no check engine light i had it at the dealer and they told me to give the iac valve 2 weeks to relearn itself well its been a month and still no change. i am completely stumped i took the whole intake apart cleaned it and checked the seals all of them are good no vaccume leaks or bad hoses. it will do it every time it warms up but it will also do it when it gets warm out. the only thing i was concerned about was the bosch duel platinum plugs i put in because i found one that worked itself loose last night. i am putting in stock plugs and wires tonight to see if it helps. if anyone has any ideas to what else it could be i am desperate to get it fixed it shifts hard when traveling at low speeds. i also replaced the fuel fitler and air filter. when i purchased the vehicle 7 months ago

Response From pinhead_862002

i went back to the dealer and they told me what ever controls the iac is what is causing the truck to idle high. anyone know what controls the iac valve

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

What controls the IAC is the coolant temperature sensor, load on engine(a/c on or off), or the PCM. I would look to the coolant temperature sensor first, then check to be sure the a/c relay is not hanging on making the PCM think a/c is always on giving a high idle. Lastly is the PCM. I have not replaced all that many Ford computers in the years I have worked on them. They seem pretty reliable.

86 Ford ranger not firing

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Barb on 86 Ford ranger not firing

the battery checked 12.02 volts and the harness to the coil checked 11.75 volts. With the motor ginning it checked 9.5 at the coil. The demand wire from the module on the distributor to the coil shows continuity. Coil is new, wires and distributor cap, rotor button and module on back of distributor is new. When checked with a code reader the primary code was 21. The engine is a 2.9 L EFI 1986 Ranger. There is no fire at a test plug. Any suggestions?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

The code 21 is for the coolant temperature sensor. It may cause a no start, but it will not cause a no spark unless it is shorted too.

overheating ranger

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From hewettranchracin on overheating ranger

Anyone help me. Have a overheating problem with my ford ranger. We have changed the rad.,water pump, sending unit,therm, hoses,took clutch fan off and put flex fan on. going to change gauge. also had 107 racing fuel and took all out and replaced with 87 reg. gas ,,still running around 220

thx Larry 1990 /ford/ ranger/4.0- auto c-4/ 85,000 miles note;; This truck is a offroad class 7S

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Are you getting that temperature measurement off the factory gauge or an aftermarket gauge? Have you measured actual engine temperature using a inferred thermometer at coolant temperature sensor body?

Response From hewettranchracin

We changed the gauge. It is a VDO 0-250 temp. it only got to 200 this time. also we put a chip in it. Do you think this would cause it to get hot ?

Thx for the reply Larry

Response From zmame

200F would be in normal range if it starts getting going around the 250F then I would worry.


IF it gets hot again feel both upper and lower rad hoses. If one is hot and one is cold you have flow issue or air in the system. I would also get a chemical test done to make sure it's not a headgasket leak. No a chip won't cause it to overheat.

Response From re-tired

The flex fan is not the best cooling method .It flattens out in low speed high revs situations ,as in offroading , which gives you little airflow. IF class rules permit it get an electric unit mounted to radiator frame . You'll gain a few ponies to boot.

1999 Ford Contour Will not start

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1999 Ford Contour Will not start

I have a 1999 ford contour and it will not start. Spark plugs are getting fire. Fuel is getting to the injectors. When you remove the spark plugs they are really wet. Is it possible that the injectors are staying open and flooding the engine? What could be causing the car not to start. The car is a 4 cyclinder 2.0 liter engine .

Response From darrin

hmmmmm sounds like my 92 grand am. i got a spark and i got fule. i've even checked the timing everything is ok. the only thing i can think of is the computer. if the check engine light comes on i'd start with that.

Response From Guest

Thats the only thing thst we can think of as well. The check engine light has never been on before. Do we have to take the car to the dealership to get the computer tested?

Response From darrin

well sometimes yes. its a 99 so i do know it's got the obd2 computer system in it. you can get a tester at a parts shop. it hooks up to the diognostic hook up under the dash board. usually on the drivers side. it might be cheaper to do it your self but i'd ask the guy at the parts shop. you might have to take it to the dealer or a automotive place.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Have you replaced the plugs? Once they are fuel fouled, they do not fire properly. Are you sure there is spark going to the plugs??? How did you check for spark? Please give more information as to what led you to your conclusion and we can give you a better answer. A bad coolant temperature sensor can cause a no start, so can a crank sensor. So we need some more info to assist you much more. Ford's PCM's are usually reliable, so that would be the last place to look.

1995 Ford Contour *FIXED*

Showing 2 out of 27 Posts | Show 25 Hidden Posts
Question From dood on 1995 Ford Contour *FIXED*

had a running 95 Contour but needed an alternator, replaced the alternator and now the car starts runs for a few seconds and stalls. Now i was told this was the Maf sensor and to unplug it to see if it runs. so i did... and it runs... rough. it idles high and back down but it does run. i checked the ecu for codes and all i get is 111 which is system fine. i looked up online how to test Maf sensor and i have a good hot and a good ground but not a good signal ground i check the ground going to ecu with key on and jumping it to hot to see if my test light glows but it doesnt. just incase the car is different ive replaced the Maf sensor with a new one and its still doing same thing with no code. any ideas whats going on? could the run a few seconds then stall be coming form somthing else? thanks

1995
Ford Contour GL
2.0 4 cyl
130k miles

Response From Hammer Time

You need to just go back and check your work. Look for damage to the intake snorkel or hoses left disconnected that attach to it.

Response From dood

everything is plugged in, all vacuum lines are connected, air intake is all tight and connected.

Response From Hammer Time

What's the code number that it's currently setting?

Response From dood

"111" over and over. which means system okay.

during the testing of the maf sensor both my ground and hot are good, its when i get to letter "c" which is "signal ground" ground coming from the ecu, its suppose to be reading 12 volts as well and it isnt. is this a problem with the ecm or sometihng else?

Response From dood

ok so i disconnected neg - battery cable and reset the ecu, now it will run with the MAF plugged in but idles really really rough. i have to give it a little gas to keep it running, still no codes. any ideas?

Response From Discretesignals

Why did you replace the alternator? You stated all this started happening after you replaced the alternator. Might want to go back over your work and see if there is anything that was knocked off or pinched when you did the alternator. If everything looks good, what is the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running?

Response From dood

I thought the alternator was bad, how i always checked this on other cars was by removing the positive cable and it should continue to run.. but this car did not... i replaced the alternator and it still died when positive is removed and i had the old one tested and it was fine. im getting 14.4 at the battery at idle it will jump to 14.8 which i tihnk is high, @ 2500 ^. this all actually happened a step after the alternator.. i noticed the wireing harness to the injectors were shot, dry rot and falling apart so i got one from a junk yard to replace it really common problem for these cars i guess took awhile to find a good one. then the next start up is was idling rough. i cant tell if its because of to much fuel or to much air. i also read that the cts or ambient temp sensor being bad could cause it to run lean. but like i said im not getting any codes.

Response From Hammer Time


i always checked this on other cars was by removing the positive cable and it should continue to run.


Whoooowwwww.............. Never, ever do that again. That is the fastest way to fry every computer in your car.

Response From dood

well im 24 and have been working on foreign cars for about 7 years now and have never had this problem until i came across a POS american car.

Response From Hammer Time

You can fry a foreign car the same way, just as fast.

Response From dood

ok this still doesnt help my situation. my ecu is not fried, this car is running to lean or to rich and its a sensor or somthing like i said ive heard it could be a temp sensor or sometihng. anything other then telling me i freid something i know i didnt would be much appreciated.

Response From nickwarner

How do you happen to be so certain what isn't bad when you don't know what is? You very well could have damaged the ECU permanently. Just because the car will run doesn't mean the ECU isn't damaged. Most people think of a fried one meaning stone cold dead, but usually its smaller individual circuits, like capacitors that control the injectors or transistors that engage other controls that get damaged by the voltage spike caused from someone disconnecting a battery while its running. Also, it doesn't matter one bit if its American or Japanese, most parts for both are all made in Taiwan anyhow.

If you think its a lean or rich condition, hook up a scanner that reads data pids and see what the O2 voltage is. Or chase down someone with an oscilloscope and monitor it directly at the sensor. If you think its a temp sensor, put a multimeter on it and see what it reads in comparison to actual engine temp. Don't guess at it, test it. I have a feeling its not a sensor.

Response From dood

im going to check the voltages on the sensors tonight but last night i found out the car ran fine after i heated my garage up to 77 degrees. and will stall when its cold.

Response From Discretesignals

Which sensor voltages are you going to check out? Take a look at the engine coolant temperature sensor voltage. Also inspect the ECT connector and make sure it isn't all green.



Response From dood

tested all my major sensors all read fine except ect which stayed at .04 never changed with temp change. i tried running car with it disc. and there was no difference with the idle just the fans ran on high. i pulled the ecu and will be replacing it as soon as i can. i sure hope this is the fix, idk where else to look.

Response From Discretesignals

If you unplug the coolant temperature sensor and check the voltage in the connector on the white/green wire, you should see 5 volts with the ignition on. Do you see 5 volts? Unplugging the temperature sensor should also set a trouble code in the ECA. Is there an ECT trouble code stored? If you were back probed in the sensor connector on the brown/green wire trying to monitor ECT voltage, you were reading the ground side of the sensor which should be around 0.1 volts. You need to be back probed into the white/green wire to see ECT voltage.

Obviously the ECT wire to the PCM is good because the PCM turned on the coolant fans when you disconnected the sensor.

Response From dood

i dont have a brown wire i have a black and white and a green and white. the black is a constant 12v ground and the green is suppose to be a signal wire to the ecu im guessing. with the sensor plugged in and key on i put positive probe on the green and negative probe on neg of battery and thats what gave me the .04 volts.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The black might be brown, sometimes the brown wires turn black..LOL.


If you have only .4 volts on the green/white that means that the coolant temperature sensor is dropping only .4 volts, so the ECA equates that to around 215 degrees F. That isn't right if the engine is stone cold.

When you unplug the connector, you should see 5 volts on the green/white wire with ignition on. If you do, plug the connector back on and back probe the black/white wire. It should be around .1 volts. If that is good, it needs a new sensor. Make sure your meter is grounded good. Best place for the meter to be grounded is at the negative battery terminal to get accurate readings with your meter.

The sensor might not be the cause of your problems, but it is a problem that needs to be fixed. The coolant temperature sensor reading is very important to the computer when it comes to the fuel curve and ignition timing.

Response From dood

put in a known working ecu and still have the same problem. so heres my question. since the care will run better with the maf sensor unplugged (yes i replaced the maf sensor) what does unplugging the maf sensor do? since no sensor is it running more or less fuel as a default?


note - is it possible to reverse the 2 wires for the ect? this was replaced by someone else not to long ago, i wouldnt think it would matter since its dc but does anyone know for sure?

Response From Hammer Time

It forces the computer to use default values.

Response From dood

i understand it does that, as i said in my post, but what are the default values. more or less fuel

Response From Hammer Time

It uses an average, probably less when cold and more when hot. The MAF feeds important data for the computer. If it ran well without it, they wouldn't put it in there. They just programmed a "limp in" mode so you won't be stuck in case of a failure.

Response From dood

Update*** Ok was really getting tired of meesing with car so i rechecked all of the sensors that have anything to do with fuel or air control and i think the new maf sensor i purchased is defective.. the + signal out to ecu is reading 0.04 volts and its suppose to have a baseline of 0.7-1.0 so im going to return the maf for a new one and ill post results.

Response From dood

Okay, so i finally found the root of the problem, and to all the ppl that tried to help but never suggestion this must be backyard mechanics. my IAC valve or idle air control was stuck open and needed replaced, bought a new one and she runs like a charm now.

Response From Hammer Time

and to all the ppl that tried to help but never suggestion this must be backyard mechanics


You're the idiot that couldn't explain the symptoms right. Like anything else........ "Garbage in....garbage out" Don't bother ever coming here for help again.

Response From Discretesignals

Glad to see you figured it out. IAC problem would definitely cause a stalling issue. Thanks for the follow up on this.


Closed as solved.