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2.8L? Can you post pics of the two carbs so we can see what we're dealing with? Personally, I'd rather fix the auto. choke than go back to manual, but your choice.

This is the auto that is in the car right now

Looks like the throttle linkage and fuel inlet are different on the manual choke model. I'm sure it can be done if you want to do the mods. What is wrong with the auto choke? They are very easy to remove, clean, and lubricate.

It smells like it is flooding the engine. It doesn't move at all. If you even tap on the gas the car dies out and smells like it has flooded. When driving it just keeps dying out and if there is any up hill it doesn't want to go. My dad said that it sound like the choke wasn't working so he picked up the rebuild

The picture shows that the choke is wide open. Does it close when it's cold? If it's staying open, it would be very 'cold blooded', but shouldn't be flooding. If it's sticking closed after the engine is warm, that would cause flooding.
Gosh, I can't remember if these things were originally manual or automatic choke. The one that is on there now, looks like it would be OE, or at least a duplicate of OE. Can you take the rebuild back and get one with the auto choke? Have you checked 1) Choke operation, hot and cold, 2) Points condition and dwell, 3) Timing, ect. Just want to make sure your problem is the carb.

When the engine is warm it does stay closed it is open right now because i opened it. The falcon was original manual, that is why my dad got the carb with manual choke. It still has the choke cable and everything working properly through into the engine compartment, it just doesn't go to the auto carb. The choke doesn't move at all whether it is hot or cold at this point. I haven't checked the timing yet everything else I have

Okay, so it was manual...Well, still your call. If you want to attempt fixing the auto choke, I'll try and guide you through it, if you want. You'll need to remove the three screws that hold the black plastic cover. Inside, you'll see the 'linkage' that is connected to the choke 'butterfly'. It should move easily, back and forth. If lucky, you can spray the heck out of the inside of the assy. with penetrating oil and keep working the linkage until it is nice and free. It not lucky, you'll need to remove the choke housing from the carb. You should see two (maybe three... can't remember) screws holding it to the carb and a piece of linkage on the back of the choke that connects to the carb. I'll see if I can find a pic of the inside of the choke for you.

I will try the penetrating oil tomorrow. Hopefully I will be lucky and that will work. If you can find the pic of the inside that would be awesome. Could this be why I am having issues of the engine smelling like it is flooding? I just took care of the fuel pump, and the fuel filter and it was all gunkie so hopefully a good oil will help the choke. Thanks for the help I will let you know how it goes.

http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Ford/F1100/Ford1bbl_ModelF1.jpgThis should be your carb. Hope this helps.

So I cleanded and adjusted the auto carb today and the engine is purring. Thank you so much for the help. So I have another question.... this may seem silly but I need to replace the shocks and I am not sure where to jack the car up to make it the easiest.

Thank you for the post on the shocks I haven't even gotten down there yet to look at them but I figured asking first was probably the best way.
The car ran great this afternoon then we went to take it out tonight and the darn thing started doing the exact same thing it was doing before. I am thinking I need to make sure the adjustment to the carb is set right but what else could it be. It was definately much colder when we took it out tonight.

Need to refresh what you mean by it's doing what it was before??

Do you mean running rich or starting too rich which was mentioned earlier?

Once warmed up the choke is just going along for the ride and not involved anymore. If it doesn't open then it isn't picking up warm/hot exhaust heat to be sucked into the black housing which has a small metered vacuum leak (on purpose) to draw in hot air from exhaust. You should be able to (caution how you do this) wire choke plate open and that's how it will run when warmed up if warmed up.

The black choke housing is indexed with marks and can be dialed to adjust choke tension at a given temp. By the book it might suggest which notch to line it up to but most are happy to be put on their own fav notch and folks used to change which notch for Summer or Winter use.

If choke is too tight it will flood with fuel. It' s hard to describe but when whole engine is cold as in an overnight you trip choke by moving throttle linkage/touching gas pedal and choke shuts - goes up a step on the fast idle cam and won't climb upstairs without touching the throttle. Now (when totally cold - usual ambient temps - not extremes like below zero or something) you can tap choke plate against its spring tension to be shut. It should by a feel want to shut tight but not all that strong. Hard to describe but it should flip to close from forced open and just give a weak snap to shut. That tension is adjustable by turning the black round choke spring by just loosening a little on the three screws that hold it on. If using trial and error - err to too weak or choke will stay strong too long. It may take an extra pump of gas pedal to cold start. 1-3 pumps was common and each car had it's own character and you got a feel for it as the regular driver. You get used to what temp engine and the day is and just get to know how many pumps will work best and none should be needed when engine is warm except maybe holding gas pedal down just a tad for a higher idle for warm starts within an hour or so.

So please refresh what the issue is - starting or operating issue. Lots can be adjusted and one adjustment can domino to change others.

Pretty good bet between Loren and myself (and others) we know a lot about carb stuff. Now - how much we recall may be an issue (LOL) but I think we can get you thru it.

Please explain again just what it's not doing to your liking and when,

T

The engine doesn't smell like it is flooding anymore. But when we started her this evening she started up just fine. When I put her in drive and pushed on the gas she sputtered out. Turned her over again and she started right up went about 20 ft or so and sputtered out again.

We need to isolate troubles and for this exact moment and situation it seems like the choke is too lean. You really only get one chance a day to check and set the choke tension! Actually - you can check the tension but the real life cold test of how it will behave is just once a day.



That's just a generic exampt of the typical housing - yours may have "lean/rich" or nothing but should show index marks - remember where is is and you can go one or two (max) notches at a time in the direction you feel is best/needed and write down what you did so you can go back to original or pass that for the opposite direction and still know where you were

REMEMBER!:: the whole choke thing is just for cold starts and the first short while of operation and then should be uninvolved with the operation at ALL. This means you must make adjustments to an engine that runs near perfectly when warmed up or you are just covering up or adding to a pre-existing trouble elsewhere.

If this doesn't run well all warmed up this should wait till you get it right when warm.

Let's go back and make this run well warm if it isn't now!
______________________

BTW - What engine is in this? Up top it says 2.8L ?? Save me from going out to look but I think the choices in six cylinders were 144, 170 and 200, maybe a 250 - Cubic Inch Displacement - we didn't speak liters back then!

T

It is a 6 cyl 170 cu in. I kinda figured it was too lean by the way it was acting. So I will try adjusting it two clicks and then we will see how it does. If this adjusting fails is it time to put in a new carb? What else could be causing this if it is not the carb?

Hi; Back again. Are you getting a severe hesitation, then stall, when you try to accelerate? The Ford carbs had problems with the accelerator pump diaphragms and power valves (economizer valve). Both are very inexpensive and very easy to replace. The accel. pump diaghragm is at the rear of the carb behind four screws in a square cover. Note the placement of the spring during removal. The power valve is screwed into the front of the carb and can be a source of over fueling while running. Both parts should be readily available thru NAPA. You can refer back to the exploded view for reference. The air/fuel mix adjustment: With the engine at normal operating temp, and idling, turn the adjustment screw clockwise until the engine speed begins to lessen, then back off until it just recovers. If it is already too lean, you may have to back off the screw a turn or two, then retry. You may want to do this a couple of times until you get a nice, smooth idle.

so my dad's friend looked at the carb and said that he would replace it. He said that it would need to be rebuilt if nothing else. So I now have the option of putting on the one that I got and making the mods that need to be done or try to talk nice to the parts store and see what I can get the auto choke one for. I know I may regret it but I think I am going to put on the manual choke one. Any help on where the gas line and stuff goes would be awesome. There are pictures above hopefully I can attempt this change tomorrow

I'm dying to find out how it turned out.

So I changed the carbs out. Hooked up the manual choke and low and behold she is running nicely. I need to adjust the idle as it is set real high right now. All and all it wasn't as difficult as I had thought it would be, hopefully the adjustment goes as easy as the installation. Thanks so much for all your help.

Thanks for the repy. Glad to hear everything went so well! Enjoy!

I stumbled across this posting and I have a similar question on the auto choke. I have a 65 falcon with a 200 ci motor. I just purchased the car and rebuilt the carb. The vacuum line for the auto choke is missing and I can see where it connects to the carb, but i cannot find where it connects to the manifold. Do you have any idea?

As Tom mentioned, the 'auto' choke is heated with exhaust. No vacuum connection. To add, most of these had a bracket that attached to the auto choke housing to cradle the heater hose which passes nearby. The heat from the heater hose helped keep the unit warm while driving. Couldn't find a pic to illustrate.

That pic came from O'Reiley's web site for a repair kit for rusted out choke heater that I recall many of back when. Origs would rust off and break at the exhaust manifold and this kit you could just hammer into the rusted mess to provide heat for chokes if it plain not getting heat it can stay on and engine would run lousy or high idle as it thinks it's still cold without this working,

T

Thanks Guys! This is really helpful. I will stop in a local Kragen (O'Reiley's on the West Coast) and try to pick one up. I will let you know how it works out.

Leaving it up to you for diag. It might not be this - it was just common to me even when these weren't so old. Many models of Fords used the same idea and many failed at least on me due to this item.

"Just remember - your memory is the second thing to go!" Can't recall what the first was - laugh,



T

Sorry for the delay in response. The auto choke worked well. I ended up using a stove/stove pipe that clamped to the manifold and it is working very well.

Thanks for report of success. Auto choke is best - trust me! It knows the temp vs guessing with a manual!

T

Choke should be heated with exhaust heat the tubing of which was a problem. Kits were sold (owned many) to fix that. Also the carb must have some vacuum inside the black cover of the choke to suck in some hot air or choke will stay on way too long! Suggest fixing vs a futile manual choke if that's what this issue is............

T

haven't gotten the carb changed out yet. messed my knee up yesterday so i had to take a rest. i believe i am going to go with the manual carb i have just to get the beast running. once i do the transplant i will let you know how it goes.

I've just never had any luck with "rebuilt" carbs from parts stores. The parts store we deal with won't even sell them. Nor, will we. One good one, out of ten, would be good odds. The one you buy may or may not be jetted correctly for your application. I guess that is why I'm trying to get you to fix the one you've got. If, in fact, that's even the problem. As carburetors go, yours is one of the easiest to rebuild. The only critical adjustment is the float level. If you buy a good, quality, rebuild kit, it will come with instructions for the float adjustment. The rest of the rebuild is just thourough cleaning and replacing gaskets. I'd recommend NAPA for the kit. Good quality. If you are dead set on replacing the carb, I'd recommend staying with the automatic choke it at all possible. But, with some modifications, you can switch it back to manual. Again, your call. The fuel inlet, as I can tell by the pics, will be your biggest hurdle. But with some perserverance, I'm sure you can do it. Good luck, either way.

I would definately say it is a severe hesitation and then stall. I can try adjusting those. My father is having a mechanic he knows coming over tonight to check out the carb so I will let you know what he says. My dad seems to think the carb is toast. But I will find out in about an hour

OK: Sorry this gets so long and drawn out but I/we are with you. Carbs were such a pill right out of the gate for decades it was its own specialty. Last several before almost everything went for injection were rivoted or had tamper proof adjustments which sucked because they weren't all locked in at the right spots! Arggh!

OKII: Go ahead while stone cold (no recent engine heat) -- note - cold = whatever the area temp is.

When you turn the black dial you'll note the plate gets tighter or looser even with just a notch or two. Again - difficult to describe but the down side of the plate should spap shut but not aggressively tight. As a test - perhaps the strength of is would be just barely enough to support a standard 5-6 inch phillips head screwdriver against the weight of that but close. See what I mean how hard this is to describe?

Before you begin - trip the choke by pulling the throttle right while there or tap on gas pedal just once. Choke should shut. It won't shut all the way by itself without doing that as there's a "step" cam that makes for a fast idle when choke is on. You can push the choke plate by hand to hold shut, then trip the throttle and leave it there for adjustment. Don't over pump throttle as that squirts fuel each time so just enough to trip it and once would be plenty.

When satisfied that a new and good chance of improvement - go just turn the key to start engine with one pump only or none if you just did it. Engine should start and have a high idle, allow that for several seconds and tap throttle and it should lower idle for the second step and not be racing. This era still liked to run for a minute before driving off for best performance or just watch the plate open on its own with engine heat from exhaust heating the choke and it will end up wide open in a couple minutes usually. Tube to exhaust will/should be too hot to touch! Wet finger like testing a frying pan for a sizzle or use a wet Q-tip. I don't want to hear about you getting a burn but we need to know that gets warm to hot too. Have at it,

T

Yes, if the choke is staying closed, it will flood the engine. When you adjust the choke, you need to do so when the engine is stone cold. Turn the black cover to where the choke closes to the point where you can open it with a little resistance with your finger. That will give you a starting point. Some of the black covers will have graduations. A center line with arrows pointing rich or lean. Again, for a starting point, set it at the center line if it is marked. As soon as the engine starts, the choke should open about 1/8" to allow some air past the butterfly. If it doesn't open at all, it will flood out.
I just went back and looked at your pic. The choke housing is marked. The plastic cover will have a mark on it, so just line that mark up with the center pointer on the housing. That'll be close. Usually, one or two notches to the rich side, depending on climate of course.

http://www.vetteprojects.com/kstyer/images/qjet/thumbs/sm-vette1_041.jpgThis isn't the type carb you have, but the inside should be 'similar'.
The 'lever' that has the 'D' on it connects to the choke butterfly. It must move freely.

This is the rebuilt man. choke Not sure if I got all the pictures that may be needed

I am resizing the pictures now so I can upload them.

Hey all that helped. Just to say thanks to all and to a great forum was able to resolve problem. Combination upper control arm and knuckle just finished alignment and all is well. Leave it to a teenager to wreck stuff. Just after this he totaled his moms car but that worked out good. Just wanted to say thanks and you have an awsome forum

Glad you are all set. Just once went to the scene when a control arm AND ball joint fell off! Yikes! Wheel laying over on its hub cap!!!!!! Egad. Careful out there,

Tom

Some pieces in the frt end can get bent and it's very hard to see by eye......In some cases you need look at the parts real close with a light for signs of stress....You can get a straight end, take measurements & compare those to a known good piece....The other side of the car?

If you are able to get alignment specs on the vehicle......You can take SAI & Include angle reading to help you narrow down where the problem is....

For example....If you have a bent spindle/hub...The SAI will be in specs but the Included angle will be off........

Thanks gonna try 2 get specs. Looked for stress marks thinking if wheel was that far out of wack something should show. I am assuming a cumulative effect of a little here and there. Got it drivable for now. Next couple days back at it. Thanks for help will let you know outcome

With both tires on, compare the gap between the top side of the tire and the arm connected to the upper control arm and see if the gap is larger on one side than the other to indicate a bent knuckle.

Thanks that is the only thing I didn't think of. Not sure how these forums work just yet cause I'm new to it but I think I will be spending some time here. Thank you 4 your help

No, a steering knuckle off a f-150 isn't the same as yours.

Look for an Explorer 4WD not an F150

Call M&M Motors in Hemingway. They have 6 of them. I looked up the right side, your post didn't specify which side was banged up. But they are the closest to you. Case Used Parts and Swamp Fox Parts in Marion are a close second.

I looked that up on www.car-part.com if that helps you. They are like google for used parts and have linked up to salvage yards nationwide. They can look into the inventory for yards that allow access to their system.

Just my 2 cents again: Bent or damaged front end (tons of others around a vehicle too) don't fix - toss for new or well known good used. Too important,

T

Sorry about the other ? Did measure the distances and there is a 1/2" difference from rim to top mount. However top to frame is the same which leads me to think hub mount is bent. Going to check it out. Also gonna check q a area so I don't do that again. Thank you for your help.

I would take a real hard look at the knuckle where it attaches on top.

That is a device that senses when the rear of the vehicle is going up in the air and adjusts the braking to keep the rear wheels from locking up. Just make sure it moves freely when the car is jacked up and the wheel stays lowered.

oh thank god ^^; jacked it up and it was loose so its suppose to be loose.. thank god for that. i thought it was another thing to add among the already large list of problems with my car. do you know what that thing is called? also a link between a bar going to both wheels and suspension broke soo. that is in need of repare. hope those arn't too costly

yup thats exactly where it is. would that cause interment net break rubbing?

Should not cause any brake rubbing, but it can cause a rattle or a thumping noise.

welp. that sucks. looks like i have 2 repairs on my hand. fixing that and still trying to find what causes them to rub. i thank it may be the rubber line from that box to the caliper, it was horrible early winter and lost a break shoe entirety and the other got jammed sideways and f**ked up my caloper and rotor. costly repare id like to avode happening agan

Check for rust between rotor and hub. Scrape it off and grease as needed but don't allow grease on friction areas.

Flex hoses can intermittently cause hydraulic locks, overheats and pad failure. Good pads shouldn't fall apart as mentioned. They make better ones.

Favs are "Centric" some Bendix and there are other high end parts by brand also,

T

no rust on new rotor, caliper, and brakes. still looks like it did the day i put it on

Danz - if you didn't assertively clean the hub to rotor it's high on the list. It may be rustyer here but it will mess us a brakejob almost anywhere,

T

Thanks Dan, I have looked at the front end parts but I think I am going to take it to a buddy of mine that works at an alignment shop. A lot of times you cant see anything with the naked eye. It could be possible that you are correct because it really does not pull under 25 mph. I sure hate to take it to the Ford garage $$$$. What part of Canada are you in? thanks for the reply!

Southwestern Ontario in the great little City of London; its half way between Toronto and Windsor, Approx 2 hours to either city.
Windsor shares the boarder with Detroit.

Dan.

Was closer than I knew Dan! Went through Detroit last month! Been to Windsor many times, Ambassador Bridge and the tunnel.

Thank you. I had to lower the spare tire, and I did find some kinda setup thing with a spring and a cable that is rusted together attached to the pump
Guess I'll have to buy a book for it to see exactly what it is I need to buy.
I just bought this vehicle.....I'm starting to wonder if it was in a flood or something.

Rust and corrosion is a major issue with cars in many places. It happens where I live much faster than average and most car's demise is from corrosion not wear out of major parts,

T