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Best Selling Genuine Nissan Control Arm Bushings

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We stock Control Arm Bushing parts for most Nissan models, including 300ZX, 350Z, 370Z, Altima, Armada, D21, Frontier, Maxima, Murano, Pathfinder, Pickup, Quest, Rogue, Sentra, Titan, Versa, Versa Note, Xterra.


Original Equipment
2002 Nissan Xterra Suspension Control Arm Bushing Original Equipment

P311-028A148    W0133-1630468  New

Qty:
14.13
Original Equipment Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Nissan Xterra
Genuine
2003 Nissan Murano Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-334B178    W0133-1725591  New

Qty:
35.81
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 09/01/2002-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Murano Fr:09-01-02
Genuine
2014 Nissan Quest Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-334B178    W0133-1725591  New

Qty:
35.81
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2014 - Nissan Quest S
Genuine
2002 Nissan Altima Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-0FE96CA    W0133-1723036  New

Qty:
48.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 08/01/2001-, Rear suspension - front lower arm, left or right outer bushing.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Nissan Altima Fr:08-01-01
Genuine
2004 Nissan Altima Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-0FE96CA    W0133-1723036  New

Qty:
48.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -12/31/2003, Rear suspension - front lower arm, left or right outer bushing.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Altima To:12-31-03
Genuine
2005 Nissan Altima Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-0FE96CA    W0133-1723036  New

Qty:
48.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 08/01/2004-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2005 - Nissan Altima SL Fr:08-01-04
Genuine
2006 Nissan Altima Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-0FE96CA    W0133-1723036  New

Qty:
48.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -09/30/2006
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2006 - Nissan Altima SE To:09-30-06
Genuine
2007 Nissan Altima Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-0FE96CA    W0133-1723036  New

Qty:
48.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 10/01/2006-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Nissan Altima Fr:10-01-06
Genuine
2010 Nissan Altima Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-0FE96CA    W0133-1723036  New

Qty:
48.58
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Nissan Altima
Genuine
2006 Nissan Murano Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-1020DB6    W0133-1725592  New

Qty:
36.76
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Nissan Murano
Genuine
2012 Nissan Maxima Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-51747F0    W0133-1929570  New

Qty:
17.13
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Nissan Maxima
Genuine
2009 Nissan Altima Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-51747F0    W0133-1929570  New

Qty:
17.13
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 09/01/2008-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Nissan Altima Fr:09-01-08
Genuine
2015 Nissan Armada Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-261FF75    W0133-1767438  New

Qty:
44.87
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Nissan Armada
Genuine
2004 Nissan Pathfinder Armada Suspension Control Arm Bushing Genuine

P311-261FF75    W0133-1767438  New

Qty:
44.87
Genuine Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 08/01/2003-09/01/2004
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Pathfinder Armada Fr:08-01-03 To:09-01-04
Original Equipment
2001 Nissan Frontier Suspension Control Arm Bushing 6 Cyl 3.3L Original Equipment

P311-028A148    W0133-1630468  New

Qty:
14.13
Original Equipment Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 07/01/2000-
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2001 - Nissan Frontier XE V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3275 Fr:07-01-00
Original Equipment
2004 Nissan Frontier Suspension Control Arm Bushing 6 Cyl 3.3L Original Equipment

P311-028A148    W0133-1630468  New

Qty:
14.13
Original Equipment Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -09/30/2004
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Frontier XE V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3275 To:09-30-04
Original Equipment
2000 Nissan Frontier Suspension Control Arm Bushing 4 Cyl 2.4L Original Equipment

P311-028A148    W0133-1630468  New

Qty:
14.13
Original Equipment Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -06/30/2000
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2000 - Nissan Frontier 4WD L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389 To:06-30-00
Original Equipment
2000 Nissan Xterra Suspension Control Arm Bushing Original Equipment

P311-028A148    W0133-1630468  New

Qty:
14.13
Original Equipment Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 05/01/1999-
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Nissan Xterra Fr:05-01-99
Original Equipment
2004 Nissan Xterra Suspension Control Arm Bushing Original Equipment

P311-028A148    W0133-1630468  New

Qty:
14.13
Original Equipment Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -12/31/2004
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Nissan Xterra To:12-31-04
Original Equipment
2000 Nissan Frontier Suspension Control Arm Bushing 6 Cyl 3.3L Original Equipment

P311-028A148    W0133-1630468  New

Qty:
14.13
Original Equipment Suspension Control Arm Bushing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 04/01/1999-
  • Front Suspension
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2000 - Nissan Frontier XE RWD V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3275 Fr:04-01-99

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2006 Nissan Altima S 2.5 Wobbly/Jerking

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From g121390 on 2006 Nissan Altima S 2.5 Wobbly/Jerking

I have a 2006 Nissan Altima S with a 2.5 liter engine.
What's been happening recently (maybe a couple weeks) is that my car jerks or sways from side to side everytime I accelerate and brake. It used to be if I was on a hard road or worse if there was a break in the road like the freeway (you know like the lane has a crack from repair for a few miles) but now its on flat surfaces and regular streets, I can feel the car jerk from side to side even if I'm just cruising and Im pretty comfy with speed but its a little scary since it feels like my tire is about to spin off the car or i'm going to lose control. The only thing that was touched within the last week and a half were my front brakes. My dad replaced them and he's been doing this for as long as I can remember so I dont think he would do it wrong plus he knows his way around an engine or two but since I know this can happen due to many suspension components I figured I'd ask. Also about two months ago I installed a new engine because my original one failed due to the catalytic converter:
FYI:
I just looked under the car and the control arm bushing is torn but Ive had a control arm bushing down to bits and pieces before and it never did any of what I feel now, its only the front end where I feel it.
Also my whole front suspension system is not even 6 months old, before my engine failed I had started replacing the old parts, after the new engine was in, I finished up the rest.
here's a list of all the parts I replaced both Suspension and Non Suspension
Rancho front struts
KYB rear shocks
New Lower Control Arms (both)
outer tie rod ends (both)
strut mounts
rack and pinion
axles
engine mounts
sway bar
brakes
flywheel
serpentine belt
O2 sensor (upstream/downstream) / Knock Sensor
bearing's
rear camber arm
and of course The Engine

I should have a new car so whats going on now???
I push gas jerks to left, I push brake I jerk right, I push nothing and cruise and it jerks left/right randomly.

The pics are from what I saw under my car, where is that from?
Thanks in advance for any help



Response From Hammer Time

I believe the "J" shaped hose is just a vent and doesn't go to anything.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wow - what a list of stuff replaced up to the whole engine! Suspension, steering parts up the kazoo also. Seems more like this poor thing is being so abused you'll never win,


T

Response From Discretesignals

It probably wasn't abuse on the OPs part. Pretty common to see or read about the engines on those getting sandblasted because the manifold catalyst came apart and got sucked up into the engine. I would never buy anything with a catalyst that close to the engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Not blaming OP and sorry about that if all these problems were not neglect/abuse. There are zillions of these around me and haven't so much as touched one to put a fingerprint on any so can't know the layout and converter's spot in this game. I simply don't hear of wild problems with these cars with design flaws or plain cheap.


Hey - roads local to me really suk big time. Wild defects left for days without fixing or patching and car killers. Some of that is a surprise and some you know to crawl along so slow you don't wreck your vehicle.


If that's the case I really don't know of a vehicle that can take that long term without constant problems, Tom

Response From Discretesignals

They are good cars and the engine themselves are reliable, but the design of the catalyst to warm up faster to reduce emission quicker is what is taking the reliability factor and putting it down the toilet. Few months back we had a Nissan Pathfinder with a 4.0L come in with low engine power. Pre manifold cats came apart and clogged up the secondaries. We replaced the cats and the engine now blows smoke rings.

If you get a customer that drives around with a misfire on one of these that melts the pre cat, it is probably going to start burning oil. If that was my car, I'd fix what was broke and sell it. Then get something like a Honda or Toyota with a catalyst that isn't so close to the engine.


Response From GC

Control arm bushing wear can cause opposite pulls when accelerating/braking. If you can get any movement out of the control arm, its too much.

The pics look like grease thrown from the cv joint to me.

Im clueless on the pic of the vac lines?

2006 Honda Accord EX front suspension torx specs

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From cmb7684 on 2006 Honda Accord EX front suspension torx specs

I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX 4 door Sedan 4cyl motor automatic trans 155,000 miles. I replaced the front suspension parts: struts, upper and lower control arms, lower ball joint, cv joint axles both sides, stabilizer bar end links, outside tie rod ends and new bearings.


I just want to make sure I have everything tightened right to avoid any issues. Can anyone give me the torx specs for the front end or more specifically the specs for the bolts at the top of the strut tower and the lower fork assembly the strut goes into. The upper control arm bolts, The lower control arm bolts, the stabilizer end links, the outside tie rod ends and the axle bolts?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What on earth have you done to this poor car to need all that and why do you think you do? Seems like it was dropped off a cliff.


It's spelled "torque" -- Torx is a brand name of a type of fastener just FYI. Most of what you mentioned if you don't have a feel for the right or appropriate torque you probably shouldn't be messing with it sorry to say.


I don't have easy listing for exact suggested specs for each item you mentioned one by one. I also can't just say "tight enough" as that doesn't give you a # to follow.


Perhaps you should buy the AllData.com DIY manual for this car if you are doing this much stuff but still wonder why you need all that at once!


Some items you only tighten when weight is on wheels or pointing steering direct ahead, other's with cotter pins this way and simple stabilizer pins you watch the rubber compress. You should just know that or IMO not be doing this stuff or have proper help with you. I couldn't explain what takes years of experience after training/schools.


When torque is critical most times the part comes with that information,
T

Response From cmb7684 Top Rated Answer

Ummmmm after 4 front end collisions and 155,000 hard miles yes the front end you could say resembled something dropped off a cliff. The lower control arms bushings were shot and the ball joints were very loose and hand some clicking in them. The other rubber boots were dry rotted and starting to go and very loose as you can expert with 155,000 miles but thank your for the spell check and correction on torque versus torx ....completely an oversight on my part however an answer to the question would have been greatly appreciated.


Now the reason I want the specs was because most bolts have TORQUE specs as I am sure you are aware and after I ran into some trouble a while back with going through bearings on a NISSAN bc the axle bolts were not TORQUED right it was new to me as that was something I have never come across in the years I have of messing with cars but by far an expert such as yourself. So after changing everything just as a precaution before I take it in to have it aligned I figured I would torque it all down as it should be so a car genius like yourself could double recheck some of it when they play with the alignment. It my limited experience it seems that the suspensions on the newer cars require a little more precision then the old it feels right to me that was good enough for older cars.
So I guess I will ask at a Honda forum where the torque specs of the front end are often posted by the younger kids who upgrade the suspensions of Honda's as rice burners and don't mind providing information and participating in discussion opposed to the apparent cocky retired has beens know it all types that run this forum and ridicule those who dare ask a question from others who should know a little more about a topic.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Relax. It's still a lot of stuff all at once to be noticing now with apparently no checking along the way of these items ALL of which are total safety items. Neglect of these or checking has resulted in mandatory vehicle inspections to include all safety items are in good shape for you, your passengers and for anyone else you share roads with such that an accident doesn't occur over something that could or should have been known long before. Stuff still happens.


Torque on fasteners anywhere is known and put to #s and tools to show you have reached that #. Many items of marginal importance are not going to specify without looking them up one by one. I could find a page of torque specs for front end steering and suspension parts all at once to post for you. I'm sure one exists somewhere for this car but probably a subscription for a year for just this car. One common one I mentioned and link to its home page is..... http://www.alldatadiy.com/


Once there you can select a sample what you can expect. Here's one for just what marked bolts can take not specific to each item but rather a rating for just bolts...............

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY~G~C45827~R0~OB0~P4R0H~N/0/138181779/138629620/138629625/138629629/34853741/34869961/34869963/165252571/156082788/153621061
That is one of their sample pages of mega 100s. I can't purchase the one (I think $27.50US) for just your car and do things here for free for you and others.
First - does anything on that chart even make any sense to you? That's the easy version or DIY (do it yourself) data.
Do you have the tools that tell you when you reach a specification if one is important enough to be exact? Many things you just know by feel for assorted things.
*************************************
You would select one item at a time and it would list it out especially drivetrain anything and anything that hold or suspends a vehicle.
*************************
It's a valid question there's no one stop way for me anyway to answer all at once. Would be easier to just go to you or you come to me and do it than find all that all at once. 90% of which with a little experience you don't need to look up at all.
**********************
Silly example of life things would be how tight measured in a # would you say you tighten the cap on a screw top container of milk for example? See if you can find that. Too tight you would wreck a cap and too lose it could leak and that's just MILK!
***********************
A lot of learning comes from breaking something once then you pay attention the next time or get hands on help as becoming experienced by yourself and alone would be near impossible or at least impractical. You go to tech schools when you want to do tons more on a vehicle THEN go do it for yourself or for a job if you wanted to do that.
***************************That process never changed for learning things in general. Ex: See something done, get help doing that done, then when you can show another person how to get it done you have learned how to do it.
*************************************
The initial problem as I already mentioned is how did all those things get bad without noticing them along the way. That was neglect by you or for those who fixed accidents were not checking that the vehicle was ready to be back on the road but something failed out of the gate.
I did find one important torque specification for you and could be incorrect too. How tight do you make the lug nuts when you put a wheel back on? If anything is important that is too and bet that info isn't posted on the nuts to the wheel.
BTW it showed "final torque of 80 ft/lbs. That already isn't clear as it suggests you know when it's final and didn't say what that meant.
I see tire places just go all crazy to be fast and never look up or set wheel's fastener's to spec yet they make tools for that too.
Fortunately most even using air tools without a spec just get them right or right enough. It's hard to know or explain each part of everything on everything.
Such is life. You get help and taught many things,
T