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Exedy
2004 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.3L Exedy

P311-0A397E9    VLK1003  New

Qty:
$626.39
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Sold as Kit Only, Includes CSC Hydraulic Slave Cylinder ; Discmm 240; Discin 9-7/16; SplinesDia 1; Splines 23
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Volvo S60 B5234T3 Turbocharged L 5 Cyl 2.3L - 2319
Exedy
2005 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.4L Exedy

P311-5C6299D    VLK1004  New

Qty:
$556.49
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Sold As Kit Only ; Discmm 239; Discin 9 3/8; SplinesDia 1; Splines 23
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volvo S60 B5244S6 L 5 Cyl 2.4L - 2435
Exedy
2004 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.3L Exedy

P311-0A397E9    VLK1003  New

Qty:
$626.39
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Sold as Kit Only, Includes CSC Hydraulic Slave Cylinder; Discmm 240; Discin 9-7/16; SplinesDia 1; Splines 23
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Volvo S60 B5234T3 Turbocharged L 5 Cyl 2.3L - 2319
Exedy
2005 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.4L Exedy

P311-5C6299D    VLK1004  New

Qty:
$556.49
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Sold As Kit Only; Discmm 239; Discin 9 3/8; SplinesDia 1; Splines 23
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volvo S60 B5244S6 L 5 Cyl 2.4L - 2435
LuK
2006 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.5L LuK

P311-06231DB    22-035  New

1122035

Qty:
$333.09
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • LuK Global Number 624 3639 330
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1"
    • Pressure Plate Type: Push Type Diaphragm
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Volvo S60 R Turbocharged L 5 Cyl 2.5L - 2521
LuK
2007 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.5L LuK

P311-44F8CEA    22-038  New

1122038

Qty:
$359.85
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • LuK Global Number 624 3709 330
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1"
    • Pressure Plate Type: Push Type Diaphragm
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Volvo S60 R Turbocharged L 5 Cyl 2.5L - 2521
Rhino Pac
2005 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.4L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-2C9F0F4    22-013  New

Qty:
$431.60
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9'' Volvo clutch kit
  • CSC (concentric slave cylinder) included with kit. Note, the master cylinder must be replaced to validate warranty
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.000 X 1.000 X 23t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volvo S60 Naturally Aspirated L 5 Cyl 2.4L - 2435
Sachs
2001 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.3L Sachs

P311-12FB00C    K70255-01  New

Qty:
$383.28
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; Kit Only;Kit includes Concentric Slave Cylinder.; O.D : 9 7/16 ;I.D : 7/8 ;TEETH : 20T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Volvo S60 L 5 Cyl 2.3L - 2319
Sachs
2001 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.4L Sachs

P311-246D720    K70275-01  New

Qty:
$360.90
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; Kit Only;Kit includes Concentric Slave Cylinder.; O.D : 9 ;I.D : 13/16 ;TEETH : 20T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Volvo S60 Naturally Aspirated L 5 Cyl 2.4L - 2435
Sachs
2005 Volvo S60 Clutch Kit 5 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-363E7C7    K70401-01  New

Qty:
$441.34
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; Kit Only;Kit includes Concentric Slave Cylinder.; O.D : 9 7/16 ;I.D : 1 ;TEETH : 23T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volvo S60 L 5 Cyl 2.5L - 2521

Latest Volvo S60 Repair and Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

05 Volvo S-60 no drive no reverse grinds going into Park

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 05 Volvo S-60 no drive no reverse grinds going into Park

2005 Volvo S-60 with 128.000 miles.

Driver parked at mall and upon returning the car would not move in Reverse nor Drive. When shifting from Reverse or Drive into Park, the noise sounds like the vehicle is moving when put into Park. Park does not hold the vehicle. It can be pushed forward or backwards in Park.

I've never heard one grind going into Park unless the car was moving.

Any suggestions will make me dance for joy.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Park sprag is sheared offf which explains that noise. The no movement indicates a bad low/rev clutch pack which has finally popped and taken others with it. Its new trans time. So news on the price may make your dance skip a step or two, especially with this car.

Response From comnavguy

I kinda suspected the broken-off Park thingee, but was hoping for my friend better news RE total replacement or huge super cost re-build.

Is it likely that all these malfunctions happened simultaneously? Is it more likely that one set of problems has been ongoing and finaly the straw/camel happened?

From your knowledge, does this year/model Volvo have a history of tranny problems? I think it was '92-93 that Buick put a tranny intended for the V-6 into LeSabres and Park Aves with the 350 V-8 and they disintegrated at about 38,000 to 45,000 miles. Buick didn't do a recall but I think they paid towing and extended warranties for 50,000 "IF" the damaged party got insistent and talked with the BBB.

Thanks for the reply and let me know what else you know of this car/tranny.

Response From nickwarner

I don't deal much with the Euro stuff myself, as there isn't as much of a market for it in my area and they use a lot of specialty tools that are costly. Don't know if this is a common thing. The parking sprag I am referring to is inside the trans. I don't know how this guy drives it, if he beats it or anything so hard to say why the failure occured. Most cars I see where the park sprag shears is because someone put it into park while it was still moving. But what is certainly blown in it I can't say from where I sit. Thats a question for the trans guy who rebuilds it.

I would imagine your straw/ camel assumption is likely. Things don't usually fail completely like this without warning unless its a 90's model Caravan where they blew a fist-sized hole through the case because of a poorly designed diff.

I think you might've gotten bad info on the GM issue. LeSabre and Park Ave were front wheel drive since the late 80's and never could have a 350 in them, just a 3.8. The Buick Roadmaster was the rear wheel drive model that had a 350, same as the Caprice and even the Caddy Fleetwood.

Response From comnavguy

OK. Gimme a break. What am I supposed to be a great brain surgeon, mechanic AND mathematician? So I was a decade or so off. It was in 84 that Buick had the transmission issue, and I'm not even certain about that. It might have been 82.

Buick did make it right but only if the owner(s) made enough noise about the problem. They paid towing and replaced the trans with, I think, the 400-R4 trnsmission.

I keep shooting and eventually I hit the target. Once in awhile it's the bullseye.

Response From Discretesignals

You mean the 200-4R transmission?

Response From comnavguy

YES! I think it was the 200 R4 transmission.

As for the Volvo which started all this thread - the CV is OK. The owner had it towed back to his house and is going to sell the car as is. He said he hopes to run across someone who KNOWS and LOVES this model Volvo and who knows he can get it fixed inexpensively.

The "knows and loves" let me out.

Thanks for everything.

Response From kensoncustom

still sounds like a c/v issue ,check the 2 piece shaft striped splines could cause this problem.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you make sure you didn't have a broken CV axle?

Response From comnavguy

We have not checked to see if there is a broken CV. This break-down happened in a mall parking lot, and the security guy got involved. Until today, the car has not been up on a jack YET. I'm going to see if we can't check the CV tonight.

Thanks for that suggestion and reminder.

01 Volvo S60 A/C no condensate - compressor cuts off

Showing 5 out of 18 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 01 Volvo S60 A/C no condensate - compressor cuts off

2001 Volvo 2.4T with 153,000 miles blows 40 degrees with Dallas temps 90 - 100 R.H. 50% to 60% until driven a few miles and then the compressor cuts off. Then I turn off all the A/C controls for few minutes and then turn the A/C back on and it blows ice again for another few miles.

Whether sitting still or rolling there is zero condensate coming from the car and there is no dampness on the carpets.

So far the A/C does not cut off if I sit in the car for 10 to 15 minutes idiling.

Response From Hammer Time

40 degrees is too cold. You probably have a bad cycling switch.

Response From comnavguy

Thanks, but it still doesn't make sense. I can sit in the car for a long time with the AC blowing ice UNTIL I start to drive it. Within a couple of blocks it quits. I haven't taken it on the highway to see if it re-starts itself, but I can stop the car, cut it off for a few minutes and upon restart, the AC is blowing cold again and will continue blowing cold until it starts to roll again.

And where is the cycling switch on this car? Please don't tell me it's in the compressor

And I still have zero condensation .

Response From Hammer Time

If it runs that cold without cycling, it will freeze the evaporator.
Turns out your uses a temp sensor in the evaporator. That should be cycling the compressor off if it gets too cold.

Response From comnavguy

OK. I just bought a new, accurate themometer. The temp at the center vent is 48.

I can let the car sit and idle for 20 to 30 minutes and it stays at 48 to 50 with the high side pressure steady at 250 PSI. The OLD book I have calls for Volvo pressures from 406 to 450 PSI, years 95 thru 99. I do not have year 2001.I

The minute I push the RPM above 2000, the compressor cuts off and will not start again until I turn the car off, let it sit for a few minutes and re-start.

I now suspect a defective high pressure switch but can not locate iit in the high line.

Can you tell me where that switch is located so I can replace it?

Response From Hammer Time

No way on the 450. That will just kill a compressor. Even your pressures are a bit on the high side.

Response From comnavguy

Exactly on the pressure, but that's what Haynes has in their manual (doorstop) for years up to 1999. In that same book, years earlier than 95, the highest pressure is 227. I've never seen any pressures on anything going to 400.

So, I still suspect the high pressure cut off switch is defective. I know it's in the high line, but it would be very helpful if you or someone could tell me where and save me from having to remove several shrouds to trace the line.

Response From Hammer Time

I think that they are telling you is the high pressure cutoff is in the 400s. I believe it uses one pressure sensor that reads all pressures and it looks like it's in the liquid line, behind the right front headlamp.

Response From comnavguy

That MUST be it. Volvo is the only car group in the Haynes manual with pressures that high, and only on vehicles from 95 to 99. I'll take the headlight out to see if the sensor is in that area. I hope.

Thanks for everything.

Response From Hammer Time

Just follow the line from the condenser.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pay attention to HT - he knows what he's doing,

Tom

Response From comnavguy

I put HT in a class by himself. The best.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No argument. Just think for a moment................. we are all volunteers and not paid here! NOT JUST AN AMERICAN SITE BUT GOD BLESS AMERICA. Happy fourth,

Tom

Response From comnavguy

It IS the clutch. Lots of troubleshooting and hair-pulling.

I tapped the clutch with a huge screwdriver and it engaged. Ran the RPM up and the clutch disengaged. Let he engine go back to idle, tapped the clutch again and it engaged.

NEW CLUTCH required.

Thanks guys/gals for all the suggestions and help.

I've never seen a clutch fail in this way. Live'n learn.

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure it's not just too much air gap. Sometimes you can move the plate closer and resolve that. It still needs to have clearance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

3.5 to 4-5 ohms at clutch it''s - otherwise it's excessive clutch air gap as Hammer said,

Tom

Response From comnavguy

I think this guy is going to buy a new compressor, but can you tell me how to adjust the air gap on compressor clutches? Also, is the 3.5 to 4.5 Ohms the coil resistance?

We're on our 14th straight day of over 100. NEED cool.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If you buy new with clutch (highly recommended) it should be all adjusted but check. Gap is usual in general .020 +/- and your are correct on ohms. Spin oil thru any replacement oil prior to installation, measure what comes out of old one and the condition of it. Follow any suggestions that come with compressor.

I did not re-read the whole thread so your call on if this is a compressor problem or not. Quick re-read of no condensate? Compressor may not be the issue. Go by pressures at the temps. See top post for CHARGING PROCEDURES may help,

T

have no clue

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From scott1983 on have no clue

i have a 2004 volvo s60 R with with a 2.5L engine. it a nice car but turning into a pain in the ass. my wife was driving it and she said all the sudden the clutch would not go all the way down and could not shift gears so she was able to coast into a parking lot and then it would not start she said she force the clutch down hard as she could and started but only go in reverse and then she started getting a burning rubber smell. i took it to a shop the did a dyno check and said it was the clutch master cylinder, they got a new one put it in i called back and said it still wasnt working then said it was going to be the slave cylinder, clutch, or flywheel but would have to pull the transmission out to see which and just for labor was $800 so after waiting on parts and such nine days later i have to call cause they are suppose to know what the deal was and they said it was all of those and was going to be $3400 and they where working on it now. So is there a chance that all that could go out with no prior problems or any signs of the clutch going out. i am not to good with cars but i'm not that dumb and i am pretty sure i am getting taken here but have no clue what the real problem is cause i dont trust these guys. thanks, james

Response From rrubink2

used to repair volvos at a dealership and was certified on s60 type R sounds to me like a throw out bearing is seized have repair shop ck into this, will probably need clutch plate, but the flywheel can be resurfaced alot cheaper than new one ck with garage to see if it is possable

Response From Double J

Wow,lotsa money...not sure how much clutch parts are for a volvo but i imagine their not cheap...

clue here i think is the burning smell...sounds like the clutch went out,clutch going out could damage the flywheel for sure..
as far aas the slave cylinder,yes it could be faulty......clutch master,hard to say,possibly was damaged when pedal was forced...who knows ....that wasn't the thing to do for sure,but i imagine i would do the same thing if broken down and in a panic type situation.

if he has to disassemble,(take trans out to inspect) to verify what failed,it would be foolish (if say clutch wasn;t worn )not to replace it,heck your in there already...
my moneys on the clutch wore out....have them give you an itemized estimate so you can see where the moneys being spent...and for sure ask to have the old parts back ...that way you will keep them honest and you can have another mechanic check and give you his opinion......your into it now tho...
hope this helps ya...
post back results...
maybe the others have some thoughts as well..

JIM

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

just did some price checkin' on line- yea parts can be high....some places i was at $1600.00 plus not including taxes and these are on line parts warehouses with discounted prices....not probably what their getting plus you have to figure the markup ..they are entitled to profit on the parts.

JIM

2001 Volvo Tranmission

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From dkee on 2001 Volvo Tranmission

I have a 2001 Volvo V70 Wagon with the 2.4L turbo and automatic Transmission. Within a year after we purchase the car, the transmission was replaced (on Volvo, of course).
The original symptoms:

  • Abrupt downshifting on deceleration. By 'abrupt', I mean bumping into gear kind of violently.
  • Abrupt upshifting when accelerating after decelerating into a corner (like popping the clutch in a manual trans.)
  • Occasional total loss of power to transmission from engine. (Driving down the road, engine sounds fine, car won't go)

  • The replacement was done by our local Volvo dealership. Afterward, though the loss-of-power problem didn't recur, we were less than totally satisfied that the shifting issues were solved. But they told us that they could detect nothing in the software and couldn't get the car to demonstrate the symptoms when they test drove it.

    Now, 7 years later, the problem is back with an vengeance. That is to say, while the symptoms have been here all along intermittently, they are now at a level where I question the reliability of the car.
    The current symptoms:
  • Same abrupt downshift on deceleration
  • Same abrupt upshift on acceleration in the decel/accel situation described above.
  • Now occaisionally abruptly upshifts from a dead stop (like when taking off from a stop sign).
  • Engine often revs between 1st and 2nd when accelerating from a stop (again, like I'm ineptly shifting a manual trans.)
  • Often hesitates between 1st and 2nd when accelerating from a stop, almost like it's stalling out.

  • I took it back to the same dealer who said, 'We can't detect anything with the software and can't make it demonstrate the symptoms you describe when we test drive the car. But you do have two broken motor mounts as well as issues with your steering linkage and broken strut mounts, etc. which could be confusing the software with unpredictable torque readings and causing the shifting issues you describe'. Just how this list of problems occurred with my mild-mannered spouse at the wheel, I can't imagine. She must be off-roading in her station wagon while I'm at work. But it sounded like a plausible explanation, so I paid them the $4,200 for the repairs only to have the transmission issues remain. Naturally, I was displeased.

    When I took it back in, they regurgitated the same tired line about the software and the test drive and sent me home. I'm concerned that if the dealership took me for $4,200 not to solve my problem (they're the experts, right?), then some random 'European' mechanic shop might introduce me to brand new levels of despair.

    Any and all help, tips, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    ?? Are you suggesting 7 years later the first trans work wasn't right? Should have taken care of that, then!

    Out of all the rest of your post "broken motor mounts" were mentioned! Egad - how are you driving it at all with two broken mounts? Engine would be bouncing around and would mechanically be erratic - noises, thunks - more?

    If those are bad you could just watch them with a helper puting the car in forward and reverse watching the engine - FROM THE SIDE OF CAR IS SAFEST PLEASE and fight brake within reason both ways to see it or not.

    Just that would raise all hell.

    Have you considered a transmission specialty shop for help with this?

    T

    Response From dkee Top Rated Answer

    Tom,

    I would probably have responded with the same question. 'Are you insane or just lazy not to have dealt with this earlier'. But the problem was very intermittent and I was assured by the Volvo folks that since they couldn't find any computer codes when they ran a diagnostic on it, it was probably nothing to be worried about. In retrospect, I should have taken the service manager to task on it then and there.

    Only in recent months has this problem become a normal part of driving the car and resulted in my bringing it in to have it looked at.

    In regard to the motor mounts, excellent question! I was a little surprised when I was informed that 2 of the 3 motor mounts fixing the motor to the car were broken because all hell was not breaking loose. As an aside, an acquaintance who has the same year volvo (S60 rather than v70) had the same experience: Broken motor mounts and broken strut mounts.

    My assumption from the start has been that to get the best, most informed service on this car, the dealership would be the place. I suppose this assumption may have been incorrect. Furthermore, I assumed that considering the history of the transmission, they might have given some consideration. Even as I type these words I realize that might sound a little naive.

    Maybe a transmission shop and another 5 grand are in my near future. This is the living definition of the fundamental fear and distrust that the non-mechanical motoring public has with the auto repair industry.

    Response From Loren Champlain Sr

    dkee; Very few dealerships 'rebuild' the transmissions, themselves. They usually 'farm' it out to a transmission shop. Obviously, I don't know about your Volvo dealer. I live in a medium sized town, about 200K population, across the Columbia R. from Portland, OR which must be nearing 750K. There is ONE transmission shop that I trust. And, it's NOT one of the large chains. I can't, ethically, say more. But, what I can say is, talk to friends, relatives, the BBB...find an independent that has a good reputation. The shop that I trust, I wouldn't say is any better than anyone else, but they are honest and if they have a problem, they take care of it. Price is not an issue. So, don't "shop around" for the lowest price. You want quality and honesty. And someone that will take care of the problem, if there is one.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    dkee: >This is the living definition of the fundamental fear and distrust that the non-mechanical motoring public has with the auto repair industry. <

    dkee - I can't speak for every service industry out there but there are many issues that aren't perfect and pressures on the trade with ever increasing costs, technology shifts and the all too common lack of communication. I have great faith in mankind that they don't wake up, go to work to fail at what they do. The vast majority really want it right the first time and make you happy. Stuff still goes awry with all the best intentions sometimes.

    Loren: Thanks for jumping in again. Dang - I swear you and I share so many of the exact points of view on things mechanical and the trade.

    dkee: Take this day forward like you just got the car and this is the issue to deal with. You need honesty up front as we all do and direction to the right shop for the work needed. If you strangle them with price it can get in the way of the best job done right the first time.

    Know this: Transmission is a specialty of its own as Loren said even the dealers may farm out new car warranty work to a few sub trades for repairs.

    The job now is for YOU to find the right people. Good luck. We are here to help as best we can,

    T

    Response From dkee

    Gentlemen,

    Your points are all well taken. Thanks for your perspective. We'll try to sleuth out a good transmission shop here in our area (the Central Valley of CA), and let them take a crack at it.

    I agree with you that Best Price and Best Value most often do not go hand in hand...

    Should anything interesting pop up in the process, I'll be sure to share results.

    Thanks again for your input!

    David