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Exedy
2012 Infiniti G37 Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-58B0FD9    W0133-1973049  New

Qty:
$2,086.81
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • DMF Conversion Kit
  • Single Mass Flywheel Retrofit Kit
  • This kit includes a pressure plate, a clutch disc, the release bearing / slave cyl. assembly, a pilot bushing, an alignment tool, AND a new solid flywheel to replace the original dual-mass flywheel.
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Infiniti G37
Exedy
2008 Infiniti G37 Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-58B0FD9    W0133-1973049  New

Qty:
$2,086.81
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • DMF Conversion Kit
  • Production: 06/01/2007-, Single Mass Flywheel Retrofit Kit
  • This kit includes a pressure plate, a clutch disc, the release bearing / slave cyl. assembly, a pilot bushing, an alignment tool, AND a new solid flywheel to replace the original dual-mass flywheel.
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2008 - Infiniti G37 Fr:06-01-07
Exedy
2007 Infiniti G35 Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-58B0FD9    W0133-1973049  New

Qty:
$2,086.81
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • DMF Conversion Kit
  • Production: 08/01/2006-, Single Mass Flywheel Retrofit Kit
  • This kit includes a pressure plate, a clutch disc, the release bearing / slave cyl. assembly, a pilot bushing, an alignment tool, AND a new solid flywheel to replace the original dual-mass flywheel.
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Prod. Date Range
2007 - Infiniti G35 Base Sedan Fr:08-01-06
Exedy
2003 Infiniti G35 Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-4DA655B    W0133-1795185  New

Qty:
$592.88
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Production: 08/01/2002-11/30/2002
  • This clutch kit contains a pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. It can be used with the original dual-mass flywheel or with many aftermarket solid flywheels.
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti G35 Coupe Fr:08-01-02 To:11-30-02
Rhino Pac
2006 Infiniti G35 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.5L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-092B65A    06-072  New

Qty:
$300.10
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9-7/8'' Nissan clutch kit
  • DMF
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.875 X 1.000 X 24t
    • Pressure Plate Size: 9.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Infiniti G35 V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Exedy
2004 Infiniti G35 Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-4DA655B    W0133-1795185  New

Qty:
$592.88
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Production: -07/31/2004
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Infiniti G35 To:07-31-04
Exedy
2003 Infiniti G35 Clutch Kit Exedy

P311-4DA655B    W0133-1795185  New

Qty:
$592.88
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Production: 12/01/2002-
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti G35 Fr:12-01-02
Genuine
2008 Infiniti G35 Clutch Kit Genuine - 2-Piece (Cover + Disc)

P311-1E0D641    W0133-1839056  New

Qty:
$670.98
Genuine Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Dual Mass Flywheel Replacement
  • The OE Service kit includes the pressure plate and clutch disc only (the release bearing / slave cyl. assembly is serviced separately). The release bearing / slave cyl. assembly IS included with the LuK clutch kit.
  • 2-Piece (Cover + Disc)
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Infiniti G35
Genuine
2008 Infiniti G37 Clutch Kit Genuine - 2-Piece (Cover + Disc)

P311-1E0D641    W0133-1839056  New

Qty:
$670.98
Genuine Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 06/01/2007-
  • The OE Service kit includes the pressure plate and clutch disc only (the release bearing / slave cyl. assembly is serviced separately). The release bearing / slave cyl. assembly IS included with the LuK clutch kit.
  • 2-Piece (Cover + Disc)
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2008 - Infiniti G37 Fr:06-01-07
Genuine
2007 Infiniti G35 Clutch Kit Genuine - 2-Piece (Cover + Disc)

P311-1E0D641    W0133-1839056  New

Qty:
$670.98
Genuine Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/01/2006-
  • The OE Service kit includes the pressure plate and clutch disc only (the release bearing / slave cyl. assembly is serviced separately). The release bearing / slave cyl. assembly IS included with the LuK clutch kit.
  • 2-Piece (Cover + Disc)
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Prod. Date Range
2007 - Infiniti G35 Base Sedan Fr:08-01-06

Latest Infiniti Repair and Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Runaway idle /EFI/ throttle by wire

Showing 9 out of 11 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Joeb1983 on Runaway idle /EFI/ throttle by wire

2006 Infiniti G35 coupe. (350z)
3.5l, VQ35DE revup
6 speed manual
58k

Engine RPM rising with no accelerator pedal input.

Lift off gas, put in clutch, RPM will hang and then rise to 4, 5, 6, 7k...

If I pull up on the accelerator pedal hard, bending the armature RPM's will drop.

To me I thought it was a bad accelerator pedal position sensor...

I replaced the entire pedal assembly given you can't just purchase the sensor alone and seeing how the sensor is indexed in the bracket/mount.

Drove the car for about 5 minutes after instal, seemed fine and I thought all was well, so I drove it to work.

After around 30 miles stopping at a red light RPM's started rising again...

Pull up HARD on the (new) pedal they drop...

It will slowly rise to the limiter if I let it...

Any ideas?

MAF is fairly new. Less than 3k.

Response From Discretesignals

Does your scan tool have data stream capabilities? If so, you should graph APP 1 volts, APP2 volts, TPS 1 volts, TPS 2 volts, actual engine rpm, and desired engine rpm. See what those pids are doing when your problem is occurring. Maybe that information can paint a better picture.

Probably would also be a good idea to scan for codes on the manufacture side. Sometimes manufacture codes don't show up on the OBD2 side. You need a enhanced scan or the factory scan tool to get more information.

Response From Joeb1983

My scan tool has the ability to view live data.

I also have tuning software that has all the features of consult II. (However I can't get it to open after upgrading to Windows 10)

I guess that gives away the car is not stock...

This is where I usually lose peoples help or go on a wild rabbit chases.

Given its been fine up until now I figured it had to be a simple component failure unrelated to the modifications given all had been completely fine up until now.

Here is a condensed list of mods. Any specifics feel free to ask if your still with me. Haha!

Vortech supercharger
Walbro drop in pump (255lph)
Injector Dynamics 725cc fuel injectors.
UpRev GT MAF (recalibrated OEM)
Full exhaust (headers , cats and exhaust)
Jim Wolf technologies clutch and fly (dealer installed)
UpRev Osiris tuning software (unlocks and re-flashes oem ecu)
Very conservative dyno tune from a world renowned tuner.

Viewing live data I don't see anything crazy. Ignition advance follows RPM, MAF is not erratic, coolant temp, IAT all steady and nothing high or low.

I can't view APP only TPS and It seems to correlate. It's a gradual rise in RPM; maybe 1k per 1.5 - 2 seconds so it's not a huge increase.

I wish my software worked. I can log no problem.

I see no fluctuations with vac and I have no boost leaks

Response From kev2

"Given its been fine up until now I figured it had to be a simple component failure unrelated to the modifications given all had been completely fine up until now"
you are discounting that a modified component has failed- They are the most LIKELY to fail.


getting the scanner working is key, I wonder if the throttle plate is actually moving OR something causing hi RPM,
look at the throttle control motor - is the circuit ECM to motor actuator , open, shorted to power, look at trouble trees p2100 and up as that is the fly be wire system wire colors ECM pinouts, tests etc....


GTG first susprct is always aftermarket

Response From Joeb1983

I see what your saying, I just have a feeling its not the blower, fuel system or exhaust causing the issue.

I'm not even in boost when it ramps up.

I have wide bands and I don't see any fluctuation or any lean or rich conditions from target AFR's.

I'm un-installing and re-installing the software now.

Response From Discretesignals

Just like with any drive-ability problem, the first thing is to identify what is causing the concern. You need to start here first before guessing and swapping things. Collecting data from suspected systems, doing visual inspections, and interpreting data to figure out what is going on is important.

Once you identify the what, then proceed to figure out why. Once you isolate the why and repair it, then figure out why the why occurred, so it doesn't happen again.

Sometimes you can get caught up in rabbit holes diagnosing stuff. That is where thinking outside the box is helpful. If you see things in data or reactions by something that don't make any sense, sometimes resets can fix the issue. I've run into a few vehicles that doing a reset by disconnecting the battery, touching the terminals together, and turning on the ignition for a period of time, actually corrected the anomalies. Somewhere in software or logic functions the PCM gets caught up in loops and does strange things. Why this happens I don't have a clue. Fully powering down the PCM, just like your PC, can bring things back into order sometimes. Recognizing the weird things that are unusual come with experience. Sometimes connecting a certain brand of scan tool or device to the OBD2 connector or even accessing certain modules can cause all kind of weird things to happen.

Our shop uses an Autel scanner and the other day I connected into 06 Hyundai Santa Fe. When I did a full system scan the engine shut off. I noticed the engine shut off when the scanner was getting codes from the immobilizer system. I didn't condemn the vehicle. I suspected it had something to do with how the scanner communicated with the module. It was repeatable of course. Just so many variables to deal with on these vehicles and it gets worse with modifications.

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

sorry I had to go... What I was thinking was


Because the ECM sees no conflict between APP and TPS I question if the throttle plate is really moving. and something else is causing RPM.


The RPM ranging up may require several incidents to set codes they are NOT 1 failure type.
I think your pulling up on throttle is causing a out of range issue and the ECM defaults - the issue causing high RPM is no longer present, the one time pulling on APP assy would not code and you return to 'normal' .


have you looked at MAF - is it gong up as RPM goes up?
With a blower positive manifold pressure how do you handle EVAP purge, and similar functions?

Response From Discretesignals


This is where I usually lose peoples help or go on a wild rabbit chases.

That is perfectly understandable. Most of the professionals in the auto repair industry don't get too many modern modified (electrically and mechanically) vehicles in the shop or even want to deal with them. Modifications open up another world of possible problems. Once you start getting into software changes and other mods, the factory repair information becomes useless.

I know that in factory software, the PCM is monitoring the correlation between sensors to be sure they are in agreement. If the PCM sees an increase in idle speed or rpm, but doesn't see APP voltage changes, it should go into reduced power mode and either fix the throttle position or kill injectors. It should also flag codes. If it sees sensor correlation errors or sensor circuit issues it should do the same thing. There has to be redundancy for safety. It is how the factory software is written. When software is altered or modified, it is possible those parameters for TAC issues are not included or altered so they don't perform the same way? Hard to say without knowing exactly how the modified software is written.

If it was factory software and you had no error codes or reduced power messages, I'd say yes, the PCM is seeing an APP1 and 2 change for some reason and bringing up engine speed. Then you need to find out what is causing the voltage changes for APP inputs. Really don't know why pulling on the accelerator pedal causes the engine to come back down, unless you're changing the APP voltage input voltages into something the PCM software doesn't usually see or recognize.

If you had a 4 channel lab scope you could also scope the TPS and APP sensors and actually see if the throttle is opening and causing the higher idle or if there is something else causing the engine to idle up. Really need some data from those sensors. Probably would also be interesting to see what the injector pulse width is doing if you don't see changes in TPS voltages or throttle percentage during the idle up concern. You also have to know what those voltages should be normally, of course. Need a baseline to work from.

Response From Hammer Time

If you haven't done it already, have the computer scanned for codes.

Response From Joeb1983

I have a scan tool and there are no current or pending codes unfortunately... (should have listed that)

Appreciate the reply.

*** I also should mention I have performed the accelerator pedal position reset as well. ***

No fix.

Also, RPM is not searching nor erratic. It's a smooth increase just as if I was slowly pressing down on the pedal.

Pins on both connector arnd sensor are not receased, bent or broken.

The thing that stumps me is why does the RPM drop if I pull up HARD on both the old and new pedal assemblies.

They both are at their mechanical stops... Plus, again this is a brand new assembly doing the exact thing, so obviously that was not the issue.

Response From kev2

my first thoughts....
Is your 'scanner' up to the job? these codes will likely be so called manufacturers specific.
Also will scanner allow you to view 'live' data - ?
important- vehicle is STOCK ?
I will look at TSB's and reflashes awaiting answers...

1961 Olds F-85 - Memories

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Tom Greenleaf on 1961 Olds F-85 - Memories

America was figting back to make a smaller car. They only made that body for '61 and '62. Neat car in many ways with a real olds V8 only 215 cubic inches and all aluminum but sleeved for the the cylinders. They gave up rights to engine to I think Rover of the U.K. a bit later. The air cleaner said " Rockette". Small car for the times but you could still get six people in it. Seat belts - what are they?? It's biggest problem for me was its split driveshaft which did its splined job in the middle with a center bearing for support. Never could stop that from causing a vibration under load.?? I'll call it driveshaft whip. That car was a standard trans with a three speed on the column which we call "Three on the tree". Not synchcroed for first gear so you had to learn how to do accurate double clutching if you wanted first gear before you were at a complete stop.

Fun memories, easy car to work on but it needed lots of rubber stuff and brake work. Body was near new. - T

Response From Guest

the 215 alum. enginge was neet tiny and vey light about 300 lbs running the olds and buick were diff. i used this to power a lotus elan and a67 volvo 144 did lots of mods. etc

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

GM gave out too quickly on that engine. I recall with no mistakes it could get 30 MPG on a trip. Not a road burner but could rev to high RPMs and not object like the high cube engines did.

This looked like a little car at the time. Many people were complaining that most cars were as big as a house and they were thru the 50s especially. Take that car right now and it's the size of what we now call full size cars. It had seating for six, a trunk you could use, and room to service the engine unlike today. GM in their infinate wisdom came back with a much needed small car nine years later called the Vega which by idea was fine but what a mess for an engine and body! In just a year or two the top of the front fenders had rust holes in them. Engines with aluminum blocks were silicone impregnated (big freaking mistake) and every one I knew of was blowing oil by 40k. I only hear of those now with the rare Cosworth job they did make,

T

please help! car doesnt start - not batt/starter

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From ashleycary on please help! car doesnt start - not batt/starter

Please help me!

I have a 1993 Infiniti G20 (131k miles). On Sunday I drove it for a while to get gas, when I turned the car to leave the gas station, it decided not to start. I put the key in and started the ignition. I can turn my key all the way to the start position and, although all the diagnostic lights turn on as usual, there are no noises or clicks.

I tested the battery and it's fine.

I had someone else try to replace the starter, and that seems to be working fine.

At this point I'm running out of money (my scholarship ended so I have tuition to pay for as well) and options. Can anyone please tell me what else could be wrong?

THANK YOU for all your help in advance!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf



On a budget: Ok - how did you test battery and starter (pic of starter above) ? Did someone just "try" to replace the starter or did they?? How is it that it seems to be working fine? Is this car stuck right now?

This could be a neutral safety switch but let's diag that first. Try with key in just run moving the gear selector out of park and thru them all and back - try to start and also try it in neutral - may work and let us know.

Some cheap must have tools: WalMart - 12v test light $3.96, Pair of test leads/jumper wires (red-black with alligator clips at each end) just $2.96. If you want to splurge get the multimeter for $9.96. Are we in budget?

Just take note of the pic right now. I/we might refer to it later for some places to check, hit with hammer or something

T

Response From ashleycary

we not only tested the battery with a volt meter, but also hooked up jumper cables with another car. He also ran the starter directly from the battery and the starter worked fine.

We did try the selecting different gears and starting... no luck :(

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ok: Is this to say when just jumped battery to battery it still didn't work but did if you went with a battery cable right to the starter? I think that's what you mean.

In the pic is a large cable and a small one out of sight in that pic. The larger stays at battery voltage. There is a connection from that to the starter that would bypass the solonoid which is the smaller job on top where all the wires connect. If you touched the smaller wire with batter 12v it should engage the starter. Is that what you did that made the starter work?

What's happening there is your key gives a low dose 12v (smaller wire) to that solonoid which is a heavy duty switch which essentially connectes the battery right to the starter with a little wire to your ignition instead of trying to run a heavy cable to one switch in the dash - all cars do that in some manner. With a test light or that voltmeter you should detect 12v at the little wire just when the key is turned to start - we need to know that.

That little wire goes thru a switch at transmission to only allow current thru it when the trans is in Park or Neutral and in standard shift cars detects that the clutch is pushed down - - all that so the car doesn't take off if you are in gear.

You are getting no sound at all with just the key so I doubt there's that intermittent voltage is getting there. Again if you just did that with a jumper wire it should start or crank anyway. If not the solonoid might not be making the switching action. Need to know just what wire and size you jumped that did work.

Just back from WallyWorld no less and those jumper wires are only $1.57 - 3 feet each with the alligator clips. Volt meter can work as a test light - just that some are harder to use for just detecting any current.

Hit back - I'm a little confused as to just what worked and what didn't when you said going direct,

T

Response From ashleycary

THANKS EVERYONE it was the STARTER RELAY