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Exedy
1990 Daihatsu Charade Clutch Kit 3 Cyl 1.0L Exedy

P311-373767E    23001  New

Qty:
122.45
  • Discmm 170; Discin 6-11/16; SplinesDia 7/8; Splines 20
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Daihatsu Charade L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 993
Exedy
1992 Daihatsu Charade Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.3L Exedy

P311-2618D37    23002  New

Qty:
108.75
  • Discmm 180; Discin 7-1/8; SplinesDia 7/8; Splines 20
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Daihatsu Charade L 4 Cyl 1.3L - 1295
Exedy
1991 Daihatsu Rocky Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-34D1BB8    23003  New

Qty:
89.72
  • Discmm 200; Discin 7-7/8; SplinesDia 7/8; Splines 20
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Daihatsu Rocky L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1589
Rhino Pac
1991 Daihatsu Charade Clutch Kit 3 Cyl 1.0L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0FB2207    23-001  New

Qty:
120.84
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 6-3/4'' Daihatsu clutch kit
  • ; Flywheel Spec: -0.948
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 6.750 X .875 X 20t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 6.75
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Daihatsu Charade L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 993
Rhino Pac
1992 Daihatsu Charade Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.3L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-2DAADB4    23-002  New

Qty:
130.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 7-1/2'' Daihatsu clutch kit
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 7.125 X .875 X 20t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 7.25
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Daihatsu Charade L 4 Cyl 1.3L - 1295
Rhino Pac
1992 Daihatsu Rocky Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-2196975    23-003  New

Qty:
156.85
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 7-7/8'' Daihatsu clutch kit
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 7.875 X .875 X 20t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 7.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
  • Knowledge in the Box" - most comprehensive instructions to ensure a successful installation, in addition to instruction videos and on-staff tech hotline
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Daihatsu Rocky L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1589

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Daihatsu Charade runs and dies.

Showing 2 out of 34 Posts | Show 32 Hidden Posts
Question From RKD on Daihatsu Charade runs and dies.

G'day to all appreciate any advice here.

I purchased a G200 Charade.Ran fine the first week i had it besides the weird booming sound it made at idle nothing seem to be wrong.Then It stopped working.Had it towed to the mechanic.He changed the battery.It ran then died, ran then died three times.The longest duration was probably 60 minutes around the neighborhood and it was the last time I drove it.Now it wont start at all, no power...nothing! no crank, no dash lights.

Would appreciate a starting point where the source of the problem is.Thank you all grateful for any advice.Thanks again..

Response From RKD

Thanks Nick..

I changed the throttle body altogether. Ummm.. Another question my temperature gauge doesn't work. Is that what those unplugged wires are?

Response From nickwarner

Very possible. To find out put a fused jumper wire from one terminal to the other. if the gauge maxes out with the jumper in place you know it is.

Response From Discretesignals

Wow that thing is a Charade. Charade of problems...LOL. Nick and Boss have you covered though.

Response From RKD

Thanks Discret and Nick.

When I changed the throttle body the "idle surge" stopped.Which is good news.

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From RKD

Thanks,

But I just find it weird. When I got it, the car was running.Then a week later, it's dead.The day it stopped, i was playing with the horn at the car park.I noticed the sound became deem.I turn the switch it wont start.I had it towed to the mechanic.He changed the battery.It ran but kept dying, the first time it ran for 15 minutes the died around the round about.Lucky some one helped me push it to Mcdonald's car park.

I walked home, came back to surprise it started.The second time it died, it ran for 7 minutes.I made close to home around the corner.I parked it on the side of the street had to push it though.I walked home and came back again. 3rd time it started again and ran just enough to make it home this all happen on the same night.The next morning it started I left it and used my other car.After work I took it for a run around.It ran fine for probably 60 minutes around town, no dramas.I parked it for the night.The next morning it I flipped the key and it decided not to work.


But when I had it running.I kept hearing this booming sound at idle and smoke at the tail pipe when cold.I was getting crank now no power or crank? The car just shut down.Every time I flip the key now.I GET NOTHING! no crank or power.That's where I am stuck lol.

Response From Hammer Time

If you're getting no electrical power now then you have to start with the battery by having it tested and then follow the power supply circuit to determine where the power is being lost.

Response From RKD

Ok..Now i am getting power. The car just clicks clicks. I have checked the battery terminal and I think the connector wire is a bit worn out. I cleaned them and it seems to have continuity. Now my problem is getting the engine to turn over.

The battery is on the red, meaning it needs replacing (but it's new, the mechanic replaced them) why is it red? I tried jump starting it didn't work but the car did try to ignite.hmmm

Response From nickwarner

If the battery cable is bad, its like pinching off a garden hose. You have plenty of pressure on one end and only a trickle on the other. Easy way to confirm it is to do a voltage drop test with a multimeter. Battery cables are pretty cheap, so if it seems to be in rough shape I'd change it. Don't forget to also check the ground side, including where it connects on the engine and any body grounds. A bad ground is just as troublesome as a bad power cable.

Response From RKD

Changed to newer battery the car cranks but wont start.

Response From Hammer Time

Now you go back to my first post and perform every test.

Response From RKD

Thanks mate..

Will do, thanks. I have been researching.This question might sound dumb.But where is the crank sensor, ignition coil, main relay, fuel pump on a G200 RS 1.3 ltr Daihatsu Charade? I have an idea but just want to be sure. LOL

Response From Hammer Time

Stop trying to take shortcuts. Run the testing and find out what you're missing first.

Response From RKD

You're right.

I did put starting fluid in the air intake and sorta started for a second and stopped.

Response From Hammer Time

So now, once you perform the testing as I have asked you 3 times, you may find out whether it's a problem with the fuel injectors or the fuel pump.

Response From RKD

Boss. I got it to fire up.

It wasn't the fuel pump. But a bad fuse. Now my problem is this booming sound at idle. I have no idea what is causing it.
Please help me boss.

Response From Hammer Time

Now my problem is this booming sound at idle.

Shut the damn radio off.............

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what to tell you. I can't hear the noise from here.

Response From RKD

The car starts and runs fine. But it idles rough, could there be a vacuum leak? Thanks for your advices. It's a surging idle. But ran great when you press the gas pedal.

Response From nickwarner

You could have a vacuum leak. The booming noise could be a backfire. Vacuum line is cheap, so it might be worthwhile to buy several feet of the common sizes at your parts store. Do one hose at a time so you don't mix them up. Many will be stuck and not like to come off. I just slit along them with a razor blade to remove them. Once you've gotten them all replaced, try unplugging the IAC motor and putting a length of hose on the end of a propane torch. Turn the gas on and run the end of the hose all around the intake manifold, throttle body, air ducting, anywhere else that could have a vacuum leak. If the engine's RPM jump up for a moment you found your leak right where that hose is at when it happens.

You should also clean your throttle plate. Have an assistant hold the throttle wide open while the engine is off. Use carb cleaner and an old toothbrush to scrub off the crap on the back of the throttle blade. Should be one or two air bleed holes there as well, make sure they are cleaned out. Remove the IAC motor and clean it along with the passages it sits in. If they are getting sooted up air cannot flow properly through it and idle will be bad.

Since we don't have this in the US, can you find out if this motor uses a timing chain or a timing belt? If a belt you may need to have a look at it to see if it has jumped a tooth from being timed properly. If it has, all the idler and tensioner pulleys, the belt and if it drives the water pump that too should be replaced. I'd do the above steps first as they are more likely to help and much faster to do.

Response From RKD

Thanks..

Well, I've started cleaning the throttle blade.I will pull it out so i can really get in there.I haven't touched AIC motor yet.In regards to the vacuum leak, i can probably replaced those smaller hose but those big ones are not sold in my local parts store here in Aus.Thirdly I think it's driven by a belt.It's SOCH 16 valve 1.3 liter. I should post some pics and videos. If only i knew how You're right it does back fire in 2nd and 3rd gear. And makes that surging noise when you pull up to idle. By the way the previous owner was only using water as coolant.

Response From nickwarner

The big ones leave be unless they test bad for leaks when using the propane test. The last owner was an idiot using straight water. Be sure to run a lot of flushing through this before you finally fill it with the proper 50/50 mix. Not only does it have a higher boiling point than water it contains anticorrosion additives that keep it from going to crap internally, and straight water is a poor lubricant for your water pump.

You need to get ahold of service information for the timing belt on this. It most likely requires some expensive special tools to replace, so see what it says. If its over your head or your tooling, you can at least take off the cover and verify if its in time or not. If not, and its a job you aren't able to do, at least you know what to have the shop take care of for you.

For vidoes, paste a link from YouTube. For pics use photobucket.com and insert the link in your post.

Response From RKD

Thanks,

One thing i forgot to mention is the O2 sensor is not connected.Well, the connectors is busted. I can't hook it up.Does this cause the engine to "idle surge"? There's also two connectors in the engine bay between the distributor and radiator that's not connected.I tried looking to see where they might go but can't see any vacant plugs there.

Response From Hammer Time

One thing i forgot to mention is the O2 sensor is not connected.Well, the connectors is busted. I can't hook it up.Does this cause the engine to "idle surge"? There's also two connectors in the engine bay between the distributor and radiator that's not connected

Are you kidding me????????

You've been getting help here for 2 weeks and you just mention that now?

UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!!

Response From RKD

Sorry boss.

Does it cause the idle to surge up and down? After 30 to 40 seconds of good idle, the idle surge kicks in. The engine light is also at the dash when I start it.

Response From nickwarner

Your ECM uses data from that oxygen sensor to determine the amount of fuel to add at any given millesecond of operation. If its unplugged for any reason not only will your engine light come on it will put you into limp mode and will run like a bag of crap. If you had told us that from the beginning that a bunch of electrical was unhooked that would've saved us all a lot of time.

When the engine first starts up cold, it uses a baseline table that is programmed into it to determine fuel and spark. After it begine to warm up it uses sensor data to fine-tune the mix. Because it can't use the data from the oxygen sensor its running blind and will run bad. It is the issue at hand and must be fixed now. Yo also need to find out what else was left unplugged and get it hooked up. If wiring repairs are needed then attend to them or this is never going to run right.

Response From RKD

Thanks NICK.

I wired the sensor and the car idles OK. The surging stopped for now. But I am experiencing a bit of drop in power. I might still change the vacuum lines.

Thanks for all your help.

Response From RKD Top Rated Answer

Sorry guys.

Why is it that when I release the clutch ( even in neutral) it idles high, but when i have it engaged it sort of goes into normal idle?

Response From nickwarner

I'm not sure on that. Like I said before, this make of car isn't even sold in the US so never got to see their particular quirks. Still follow up with those vacuum lines. Might make a world of difference. You also could have an idle air control motor that is slow to respond.

Response From RKD

Thanks, Nick.


I have not solved the idle surge problem. Turns out that i unplugged the TPC and the car wont surge with it out.But when I hook it back on it starts to surge again.So I pulled out the whole throttle body off.Did a a clean up and put it back in. It's still the same! I did noticed the IAC motor looked stuffed and there was no gasket between the IAC and throttle body.



Tooks pics from GOOGLE.

Response From nickwarner

By the IAC looking stuffed I'm guessing you mean it was loaded up with soot. It may have overstressed itself trying to move in that constantly to try to keep this running. Try replacing the IAC motor.

Response From RKD

Boss, it's coming from the exhaust and maybe engine.

Response From RKD

Thanks mate.

1995 Feroza Hard knocking sound when accelerating

Showing 9 out of 9 Posts
Question From greystroke on 1995 Feroza Hard knocking sound when accelerating

Year 1995
Make Daihatsu
Model Feroza F300
Engine 1.6
Kilometers 207k

Hi guys, my little rosy has developed a really bad rhythmic clunking sound recently, need some help identifying where the problem is. It's happening only when accelerating and gets faster and louder as I accelerate more, goes away if I push the clutch in. Had the car up on stands today to see if it were the cv's but doesn't seem likely as it still happens when the front wheels aren't being engaged. Tried turning the rear wheels manually to see if I could hear anything in the diff but no luck, maybe I couldn't turn it fast or hard enough. I had the rear diff pinion oil seal changed yesterday, could just be coincidence but either way am not terribly happy about the whole thing. Am hoping it's not the gearbox, it's about the only place I can't check at the moment.

Can definitely feel the knock if I put my hand on the rear diff when accelerating but can't tell if it's coming from there or vibrating down the drive shaft.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

Response From Discretesignals

Without being there to hear what your listening to and attempting to pinpoint the location, your guess is good as ours.

Did this noise appear right after the seal was replaced? They could have the pinion bearing preload too loose. Grab the pinion flange and see if it has too much up/down and in/out play.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

^^^^ Pic was there......
Appears like a Suzuki type vehicle to me?


Totally not familiar with this car not sold by that nameplate to the US so must ask and clarify words used. Hope that pic shows above as a sample of what this vehicle layout would be.


By "cv's" do you mean u-joints or real CV joints? How the heck (I'm trying to envision this) do you put your hand on a differential while accelerating without hanging under this thing? Do you mean just raising the RPM without load instead just while sitting there?


As DS mentioned noises are always tough without being there. To me using the word "knock" and while accelerating suggest it's load that makes it happen. Have you ruled out the engine itself as the source of noise?


Plenty of miles for a lot of possibilities,


T

Response From greystroke

Ok here's a vid of the car in motion, you can clearly hear the sound. Just got the car back from the mechanic, looks like a broken tooth on one of the gears in the rear diff.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OMG - Sounds like a carpentry project going on in there!


Hey - if mechanic heard that in person it beats anything I could suggest and if a differential in trouble to make noise like that may self destruct at any time which will take the guess work out of what's making the noise.


Hey - careful driving on the 'wrong' side of the road like that - just kidding


T

Response From greystroke

Ok problem found

Finding a replacement ring gear for this vehicle seems to be pretty much a lost cause these days. Looking to have the gear fabricated by gear cutting specialist

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That will make your day I'm sure!


OK - What does the pinion gear look like and other parts up close if you can? Any more evidence of trouble from the missing bits off of that?


Speaking maybe just for myself but the few (not very many) differentials of the sort that failed one was bent - housing but no sounds but had backed into something a lot harder than it. Another coil spring welded on parts to hold them in place totally rusted out and rest looked like crap as well so both those tossed for whole used units that were identical and fine forever more. Dirt cheap in comparison just time to swap brakes and other things over, change out gear oil any gaskets and seals as called for plus the junkyard would take the wrecked one back just for the scrap metal of it - handy all around.


What is your situation for a whole used unit and place(s) that are dependable enough to only take out ones that are a good risk?


If you really can't find a all the parts new for this one I'd be lost. I really don't know of a place near me that would make those or they've been hiding for a lot of years!


There about has to be some identifying marks or #s on the unit and you might find thru the junkyards the whole thing fits lots of different makes or types of similar vehicles by name brand of yours?


Just maybe some help from Daihatsu with the VIN# for whole vehicle would be a good lead to all new stuff. Can't know from here that easily.


Who really made this vehicle in that model year? Does Daihatsu make whole vehicles or buy drivetrains from another sometimes or often?


Been ages, sorry, aren't there two idle gears involved also that use the same larger ring gear? If they don't all match up or another is damaged just this one probably won't last if you did find it,


T

Response From greystroke

The rest of the diff looks great inside, no marks/pitting on the pinion or spider gears, bearings are fine as well. I've now discovered that when my mechanic replaced the pinion oil seal, there is a chance he didn't preload the pinion properly which could have led to the damage. I've managed to source another whole rear diff for $400, there was a lead time of 6-8 months to have a gear cut (at a cost of only $800)! At least I'll have some spare parts if anything else does go wrong (fingers crossed it doesn't though!).

I considered a rear diff swap for a toyota hilux as parts are very similar after the amalgamation of Daihatsu and Toyota but it's about the same price as above so I figured I might as well get the original parts.

Daihatsu stopped making parts for the Feroza back in 2000, and stopped sale of the vehicle in 2010. Contacted Daihatsu directly to see if there was a way of getting parts for the car and they don't even they don't even have part numbers for half the car in their database :/

-Edit - And as for finding one of these in a junk yard in Australia, it'd be gone before you know what happened! These cars are very hard to come by here.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You've done some great legwork and homework on this thing! OK - it's possible just a gear would work. These are very precise parts as you know of hardened steel ground just so within specs you can't see for crap by eye.


General on the metal like this and parts like this. They are so finely machined it's nuts. Not much room for being wrong or pits if you see any they will ding up the others they work with. Cause in this case would possibly be bits of the chunks missing as they are as hard at the rest and could harm the surfaces.


Parts games - hate that. Have you tried any Ebay type places for someone parting out one?


Manufacturer is no help - great. Any clubs for these vehicles? Are (don't know these or the popularity of them as they're not even sold here) but seems you need to hunt down plain old parts. Been there done that with old car restorations but at the time odds and ends were available just pricey for fast and accurate good stuff new or used.


If there's any indication this is a Toyota part I'd bet it was used in several others by them or whole different companies? Chevrolet sold whole cars made by Toyota with just a name tag change and others too.


Seems it's down to just a hunting game - good luck,


T