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Rhino Pac
1984 Chevrolet G10 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 4.1L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0E75DCA    04-064  New

Qty:
$103.24
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 12'' GM clutch kit
  • Diaphragm Option; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 12.000 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
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Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Chevrolet G10 L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 -
Rhino Pac
1962 Chevrolet C40 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 4.3L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0E75DCA    04-064  New

Qty:
$103.24
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 12'' GM clutch kit
  • Heavy Duty, Diaphragm Option; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 12.000 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1962 - Chevrolet C40 L 6 Cyl 4.3L 261 4278
Rhino Pac
1990 Chevrolet V3500 Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 7.4L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0E75DCA    04-064  New

Qty:
$103.24
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 12'' GM clutch kit
  • Strongly recommend using Performace Plus Kit for this application;Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 12.000 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Chevrolet V3500 V 8 Cyl 7.4L 454 -
Rhino Pac
1991 Chevrolet V3500 Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.7L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0E75DCA    04-064  New

Qty:
$103.24
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 12'' GM clutch kit
  • Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 12.000 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Chevrolet V3500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Rhino Pac
1984 Chevrolet K5 Blazer Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.0L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0E75DCA    04-064  New

Qty:
$103.24
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 12'' GM clutch kit
  • With 12" Clutch; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 12.000 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Chevrolet K5 Blazer V 8 Cyl 5.0L 305 -
Rhino Pac
1979 Chevrolet K5 Blazer Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.7L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0E75DCA    04-064  New

Qty:
$103.24
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 12'' GM clutch kit
  • (Except M15 Transmission); Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 12.000 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1979 - Chevrolet K5 Blazer V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Rhino Pac
1980 Chevrolet K5 Blazer Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.7L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0E75DCA    04-064  New

Qty:
$103.24
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 12'' GM clutch kit
  • (Excludes M15 Trans); Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 12.000 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Chevrolet K5 Blazer V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Rhino Pac
1989 Chevrolet C60 Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.7L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-0E75DCA    04-064  New

Qty:
$103.24
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 12'' GM clutch kit
  • With 12" Clutch, Diaphragm Option; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 12.000 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Chevrolet C60 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Rhino Pac
2001 Chevrolet S10 Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.2L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-4D5C1F5    04-155  New

Qty:
$105.66
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9-1/4'' Chevrolet, GMC, Isuzu clutch kit
  • Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.125 X 1.125 X 26t
    • Pressure Plate Size: 9.25
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Chevrolet S10 L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2190
Rhino Pac
2003 Chevrolet S10 Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.2L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-27AE86A    04-156  New

Qty:
$118.79
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9-1/4'' Chevrolet truck, GMC clutch kit
  • Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.125 X 1.125 X 26t
    • Pressure Plate Size: 9.25
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Chevrolet S10 L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2190

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

Showing 4 out of 16 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From someguy214 on chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

2002
Chevrolet
trailblazer
4.2 L vortec iL6 24valve
115,000 miles
when leaving work with temps below 0 I started my trailblazer and let it sit for say 2 min ( I used my remote start so it was running for a little bit before I got to it.) got in and checked the gauges as usual when its below 0 and they looked fine. backed out and heard/felt a bang. thought I might have hit the car next to me but I was 5 feet away from it. figured the noise was ice falling off from underneath that I ran over.

got to the first red light I felt a vibration in the gas peddle, which is normal in the cold when I start driving at first. gauges still fine.

got to another light about a mile down the road, the vibration in the gas peddle got my attention and I turned down my heat and heard this awful noise coming from the engine. gauges still normal.

this is not my video or car but this is the noise it makes. however when mine makes this noise it does not seem to be as consistent in timing, it's more random. it is also louder, I got home and my parents came outside to see what in the world was happening.

link deleted ........................ not allowed FORUM RULES

while driving I noticed at certain rpms (low ones seeing as how I didn't want to go higher) the noise would sometimes slow and stop then return as I left off the gas. no change in engine performance otherwise. exhaust sounds the same.

here are the things that have already been replaced / cleaned in the engine:

replaced:
belt tensioner pulley
belt tensioner (bearing on the other side)
went through 3 belts
6 sparks plugs (bosch platinum 4 pin)
oil cooler lines
power steering lines
air intake (by choice, it gives better gas millage)

cleaned:
throttle body
air intake
fuel injectors ( by local shop )

115,000 miles

the video says its a bad rod bearing but I like to believe its not haha.
any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some questions and comments: ZERO is cold enough of course. Handy as it is I don't like starting a vehicle unattended.


I'd check what was already done. Belt(s) pulleys new or not may have failed already.


What was cleaned and how? Cleaning an engine if that's what you meant is a bad idea and worse if cold out.


The video of someone else's problem isn't helping for yours.


Engine need those plugs taken out and OE spec and brand put in. If engine is misfiring bad enough causing noises it should have thrown a code.


Issues with ice up to icicles that can touch ground from heated engine when parked and snow or ice was on vehicle should quit right away or could really break something if in the wrong places and only looking.


This noise continued so my guess is something broke,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Need a link to the video of your vehicle, so we can hear what it sounds like.

Response From someguy214

oh all the parts that were installed and cleaned were not installed to try to fix the noise. I made that list just to give as much info as possible. all of those parts and cleanings were installed/completed above 60 degrees F. additionally I have told 3 mechanics about the spark plugs I installed and they do like OEM parts but they were fine with them.


I had a suggestion elsewhere that it might be the flex plate dragging or contacting something. will have a look at that soon.


posting a video of my own will take a while, very little time to spare atm.


also thank you for the responses so far.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This post not much help just some notes and questions: I live this weather and it's routine for temps alone with or without a wild assortment of types of snow. Light fluff to crushed ice or even chunks if already plowed can harden plenty to break parts.


* Are you familiar with the conditions or is this all new to you?
* Rubber anything can get very hard. Oils anywhere thicker even inside shocks and struts. You can get a creek or harmless sound when first moved but it goes away - yours didn't apparently.


* Plastics at some point and type get brittle and crack or break.


? What viscosity oil are you using? It matters!


T

Response From kev2

reading the post I have some questions, thoughts.

I see BOSCH plugs amd a air filter something - these are problematic - (polite for POS). anything else that is not OEM?

You did NOT mention engine codes- or if the CEL works.... a scan is a place to start.

I am suspecting this vehicle is not babied. you cancheck oil - and particles in oil, pull dip stick they will appear as metal flake - a silver paint look in oil.... what is pressure,gauge the same reading ?

Are you familiar with using a dowel, screwdriver, to help locate source of sound- engine top. bbottom, front rear etc?

Response From DanD

I agree with everyone here, on using OE ignition; but I don't think this is a plug issue. There's no mention of a check engine light and they have said it runs fine.
They did say that the noise goes away sometimes and comes back when slowing down.
So with that I'm guessing it might be a broken starter drive return spring. When accelerating the gear will be pushed back away from the flywheel. When braking the drive will slide up against the flywheel and make enough noise to scare anyone.
The first time I ran into this was with a front wheel drive GM. It would only make this erratic scrapping shrieking sound on right turns. Wasn't that a crazy time diagnosing. LOL
We found it by letting the vehicle idle and 4 guys rocking the car as hard as we could from side to side.
Every time the right side was higher then the left we got the noise. Pulled the inspection cover and there was the drive happily siding back and forth on the armature shaft.

Dan.

Response From someguy214

DanD described what happens with the noise perfectly.


here is some info you guys wanted:


K&N cold air intake


I use a mechanics stethoscope to locate any noise sources - it's how I found the two bad belt tensioner bearings
not familiar with the dowel rod and screwdriver method
checked the oil, full, no strange color or metal shrapnel


the vehicle was previously ( according to the dealership ) driven by a soccer mom, I can honestly say I don't drive like a maniac either, especially in this cold weather recently. I try to keep to low rpms with this cold weather we have been having.


no warning lights what so ever on the dash
I am going to ask my uncle tomorrow who has been a mechanic for 30+ years fixing equipment for fire/police/ambulance departments. He has a code reader to see if anything is up.


I know you guys are really on about those spark plugs but I have had them in for 3.5 years and have had no issue with them, includes a trip to Florida (no stops except to eat and restroom), and 2 trips to North Carolina ( also no stops except to eat ). additionally if the plugs were misfiring or had a bent pin I would have to think the engine would run rough, very rough. I have not turned it on since the noise started but performance was not affected.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I always like Dan's thinking. Yes the what I'll call "piggy back" solenoid and starter drive very well could even stick and not retract far enough or perhaps at all would really make a wild noise and probably wreck the ring gear also called flywheel gear.


They are spring loaded to retract and lubed. Lube could be like gum? If retracting spring plain broke then it would care much anymore about temperatures and stay doing it.


That listening with a rod thing for noises/bearings is plain dangerous. I do it and so far haven't shot a 30" screwdriver thru the side of my head touching a moving part improperly. Use a stethoscope and save the dangerous stuff/tricks/shortcuts for those aware of the risks IMO.


If that's it you could possibly see it thru inspection plate or take starter out to check that out,


T

Response From someguy214

oil coolant line came loose and was caught by the radiator fan


caused a smell so will watch to make sure the clutch in the fan is still good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

OK - you found the reason. Fix that now. Is that for engine oil, transmission fluid or what? Check that level NOW or all of them.


Fan/fan clutch. Who knows but the fan blades if they were (sure seems like it) touching something need to be very carefully inspected or just replaced. If those are out of balance or damaged that would be the next problem down the road. If clutch driven clutch may be fine but hurt by imbalance. Domino effect of problems possible from one thing that caused it. Seems you are early so try to limit the possible troubles right now.


? What broke that allowed lines to move? Fix that and know they can't just rub on things where held or with each other along their route,


T

Response From Hammer Time

That's a very expensive electronic fan clutch.

Response From someguy214

some brackets broke from rust. a quick zip tie for now holds it back enough to not hit the fan.


fan is fine

Response From kev2

thats great news- thanks for the follow up.

My favorite easy and inexpensive

Response From Hammer Time

I'm going to close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Any Mod can reopen it upon request.

Response From Hammer Time

Bosch plugs cannot be used in that vehicle. They will not run correctly and cause numerous problems. Use only Delco in that engine.

1993 chevrolet wont start or turn over

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Maverick19g20 on 1993 chevrolet wont start or turn over

I have a 1993 chevy S10 engine size 2.4 and the truck simply wont start. one day after i got home the truck wouldn't even turn over even after i drove it a short while ago. it doesn't respond when i push the clutch pedal in. i know the battery has a good charge, i believe the transmission isn't the problem because it doesn't slip and it still has good pull. but the truck wont start when the clutch is pushed in or when i tried to pop the clutch on a hill. any possible options?

Response From Maverick19g20

guys i believe you misread my passage a bit. i said that i know the battery has a good charge. because it is a new battery...>.>
please forgive me if i seem rude for i do not intend to be

Response From Sidom


i know the battery has a good charge. because it is a new battery...>.>

You wouldn't believe how much time I've seen guys waste making the same mistaken assumption........

Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. I've seen them bad right off the shelf. A bad alternator can drain a good battery in less than a days driving, a parasitic draw can drain a battery overnight.....

You want to skip this step. Then next thing would be to give the starter body a rap with a hammer to see if it will crank, if no go then its time to break out the voltmeter & check for power at the trigger wire and then start running voltage drop tests on the circuit.....

Of course if the battery is bad then your test results are probably going to condemn the starter. It would be a shame to waste all that diag time & then money on a new starter only for it to still not start & finally find out you had a bad battery.

Slower is faster.............

Response From steve01832

Dash lights. When you turn the key to crank, do the dash lights dim or are they bright. If they dim, low voltage is the culprit. If they stay bright, you need to check the starter solenoid for a signal to engage. If the wire is dead, you will need to backtrack the circuit to see if it's wiring, starter relay, clutch switch, or ignition switch related.

Steve

Response From Maverick19g20

if these areas are easy to check with minimal equip and prep i would do it but if it requires more time and such what would be the best course of action?

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Probably the best thing to do first would be to test the battery. Like Steve mentioned,too low of voltage & it's not going to crank and if the voltage is real low then it won't run either.

Get the battery tested, if it turns out to be bad, once you get the truck started you may want to get the charging system checked or if you have a voltmeter, hook it up & make sure you're in the 13.8 to 14.8 range while it's running.........

Response From nickwarner

Listen to steve and sidom as they are good at this and know what they are doing. I have merely a simple suggestion to offer that may help. You have a side post battery, and those terminals are evil about getting corroded and hard to clean. Use a pick and physically separate the bolt from the terminal. Now work the rubber end off the metal piece. Clean with anything needed until a shiny brass shows on both sides of the terminal and the bolt is clean too. If in doubt, blow 5 bucks and get new bolts. Use a 6-point socket to tighten them to prevent damage. These terminals need to be opened up and cleaned well as they are good at hiding corrosion and with a bad connection wont allow you to start the truck. When you have everything clean, do yourself a favor and coat all items liberally with dielectric grease (another cheap item) to prevent a future problem. I've fixed 3 no-starts on GM vehicles this month by doing just that. The weakest link of any electrical system is its connections. They basically must be perfect or trouble is coming. While cleaning connections, get the battery tested as suggested and when you do get it running test the charging system. Please post back with results, whether this fixed it or not. A lot of people read these and knowing what worked for others can help them too.

63 Impala - Surges when entering new gear

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From a1handy on 63 Impala - Surges when entering new gear

I am restoring a 1963 Chevrolet Impala SS. The car has a 327 engine and a four speed manual transmission. The engine seems to run fine but when I first disengage the clutch in any new gear (1-4) the car surges or lurches until it seems to gain momentum in that particular gear. Once it passes this it runs or drives fine until I have to shift gears again. I suspect the problem is somehow related to the clutch but would appreciate any feedback.

Response From Discretesignals

Do you mean when you engage the clutch after shifting into the next gear the vehicle surges under acceleration?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Guess: Are motor mounts good? Do you have enough free-play at top of clutch pedal? Those two on my mind. FYI, not enough "freeplay" and it will slip with some load or real bad with a lot of load,
T

1992 CHEVY 4x4 Won't Go In Gear

Showing 2 out of 34 Posts | Show 32 Hidden Posts
Question From djrebelgal80 on 1992 CHEVY 4x4 Won't Go In Gear

1992 Chevrolet 3/4 ton 4x4, granny gear 5-speed manual transmission (rebuilt summer 2012)- 350 motor, mileage unknown (bought brand new motor Feb. 2012)

When stopped or when first cranking the truck, it will not go from neutral to ANY gear. The only way to get it into gear is to kill the truck, put it in first or reverse, then crank it back up and take off. No problems shifting between gears, just from neutral to first or reverse. Replaced slave cylinder today, didn't fix the problem gear oil was and is full, clutch is still good PLEASE HELP!

Response From Sidom

Who rebuilt the tranny? Hopefully they used new syncros. This almost sounds like a syncro problem......How does the pedal feel??

Response From Hammer Time

Reverse doesn't use synchros.

Response From Sidom

Right.....but he said it won't go into any gear until he stops the engine to put it in gear & then it shifts fine except for 1st & R..... If the pedal is good I would be looking at the rings.....If it pedal feels like cr#p or is low then it's probably in the clutch assembly....

The tranny was torn down a year ago.......if someone cut corners & used old rings cuz they "look good"........well....you know how that goes.....

Got burned one time early one in my career over a pilot bearing....and the damn thing was a bushing at that.......live & learn....

Response From Hammer Time

Something is keeping the input shaft turning when the clutch is fully depressed. The clutch can't be totally disengaging. Even is the synchros were totally wiped out, the shaft would eventually stop turning if the clutch was held in and it would shift then.

Response From djrebelgal80

Thanks y'all for the info! Hubby went and bought a new clutch kit tonight, putting it in this A.M. Hoping and praying that fixes it (he's the only $$ maker, I'm in law school) He had already bought it when I read the responses...will return for update as soon as I know something!

**Just to let yall know, I was reading through the transmission forum last night, trying to get some idea of things that could cause his issue, and I LOVE LOVE LOVE the way y'all respond to some of the folks on here! I got quite a few laughs!!! Thanks again for the input!!

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure he rules out the hydraulics before going that far because replacing all those parts won't help a bad clutch master cylinder.

Response From djrebelgal80

Quick question: If it were a bad master, would he have trouble with the clutch? Would it feel different? I asked him and he said the clutch felt fine, not spongy, not too stiff...he said it was normal...

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This is a hydraulic clutch system. The clutch master cylinder operates the clutch. The way to tell if it is working right is by the amount of free play in the top. Any more than an inch or two of free play would indicate an hydraulic problem.

Response From djrebelgal80

Thanks! He said there's a little play in the top...he's in the process of putting in the new clutch kit right now, then I guess he'll try it out. If it wasn't the clutch, I guess we'll move on to the master cylinder??? And if that doesn't work I guess it'll have to be the synchronizers right?

Response From Hammer Time

And if that doesn't work I guess it'll have to be the synchronizers right?

No, reverse doesn't even use synchronizers.

Response From djrebelgal80

He just told me to ask you how can he tell ifthe flywheel is bad? His has a groove??? in it (his words)

Response From Hammer Time

A flywheel that is grooved from clutch disc rivets digging into it is definitely bad.

Response From djrebelgal80

Ok thanks...so can we have it fixed or do we have to buy a new one?

Response From Hammer Time

If there is actually a groove in it, then it needs a new one. That would have to mean that the clutch disc was totally wiped out to do that.

Response From djrebelgal80

How often should the synchronizers go out?

Response From Hammer Time

They mainly only wear bad when the transmission is abused.

Response From djrebelgal80

oh ok...he doesn't abuse it that I know of, but he does haul heavy stuff...he hauls scrap metal to make a living so there's been times he's had some pretty heavy stuff either in the bed of the truck or behind the truck on his trailer. He's thinking the issue is going to be with either the clutch or master cylinder though. He has to get a new flywheel tomorrow before he can go any further into putting it back together. I will definitely keep this updated, especially if he runs into more problems. Thank ya'll once again for being so helpful! We really appreciate it!

Response From Hammer Time

Synchros get damaged by slamming the shifter around but i assure you that syhchros are not the reason that you can't shift from a dead stop. As i said 3 times, reverse doesn't even use synchros so that rules them out anyway.

Response From djrebelgal80

Gotcha...after we get the new flywheel tomorrow and see if it works I'll update, especially if that doesn't fix the issue...I'll try to describe what it does so that might help

Response From djrebelgal80

He's having trouble getting the pilot bushing? (bearing?) back off. When he was stabbing the transmission back in, his cousin hammered it on, and he needs to get it off, and he doesn't want to tear up anything. We have another bearing/bushing to replace that one, he just wants to know how he can get that one off. Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

That can be very difficult. Usually what we do is use a slide hammer with a hook on the end of it that you catch behind the bushing.

Response From djrebelgal80

Ok he got that fixed. Now having problems putting in the shift forks? We're trying to figure out how they go in, but can't find any diagrams or anything online anywhere! Any links to diagrams would be awesome!

Response From djrebelgal80

OK I just went out there and looked to try and better describe what he's talking about, and the fork things he needs to know about are attached to the top of the transmission. It has a removable top, and when you remove it, they're attached to the top pointind gown into the transmission. Also, there are some metal rings on the transmission itself around the gears. He noticed that they move up and down (back and forth) and would like to know if that's ok. Lastly, he can take the shaft and turn it, and he hears a clicking noise. He's not sure that is supposed to be like that. He's getting really discouraged because we are about to run out of money, and he has no way to make any more because his truck's broken! PLEASE HELP!!!

Response From Discretesignals

Wow. Why did he take the shift tower off the top of the transmission? Which transmission do you have?

Response From djrebelgal80

He has a 5 speed but cannot remember what model. It's aluminum bell housing and iron transmission. The cover comes off on top. He was just checking to make sure there was no metal shards in the casing. He's taken it off several times before and had no problems putting it back on, so that's why he's confused as to what's going on this time.

Response From Discretesignals

NV 4500?


Response From djrebelgal80

I do believe that's it! Although not as greasy or dirty as his though LOL...it looks like it though.

Response From Discretesignals

You can see the three shift fork on the bottom of the cover.



Each fork slides over a sleeve on the mainshaft. You can see the three sleeves in the pic below. Each fork has to be in the groove of each sleeve, they will have to be lined up as you lower the cover onto the top of the transmission. The sleeves are supposed to move back and forth.


Response From djrebelgal80

That's awesome that you can post pics like that to help us! Thank you so much! He looked at them, and I guess I misunderstood what he wanted to know. (Or he worded it wrong to me, IDK) He said it feels like the gears are jammed up. He has reverse, but the others wont go into gear. He said it reminded him of the way his old truck used to behave...the old truck we used to have had a 3 on the tree...the linkages used to get jammed, and he'd have to get out, pop the hood, and unjam them by hand. Now, he just used the little piece inside the transmission to try to shift the gears indide while he was looking at them. It wasn't installed. He HAD it installed and tried to shift and they still wouldn't shift so he's had to take it back out.

Response From Discretesignals

He might have two gears engaged at the same time.

Make sure the sleeves are not engaged into any gear. Each should be in the middle. You'll know the sleeves aren't engaged into any gear because when you turn the input shaft the output shaft doesn't turn along with the input. Then line up your forks and lower the cover. That will make the transmission so it is in neutral. Then install your shifter.

Response From Hammer Time

Shift forks?

What did you take apart?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quick read - sorry: Hydraulics is the linkage not the clutch action itself. If and rare to me too the pilot bushing is the issue it can be replaced. 99% don't need that. It does need a smear of grease but it messed up and sticking somehow it has to go. Damn - been a long time but some puller would be needed as they are pressed in, usually a brass or oil releasing brassy thing.

Notes: Letting a trans hang on just input shaft while you get the whole trans at least snug is so common to mess things up it's nuts. Never let the weight of trans torque on the input shaft! -- T

Response From Hammer Time

It could be a dry pilot bearing but is more likely a clutch problem. It could be an issue with the hydraulics or even the pressure plate. It needs to be looked at by a professional.