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We stock Clutch parts for most Audi models, including 100 Quattro, 100 Series, 5000 Quattro, 80 Quattro, 90 Quattro, A3, A4, A4 Quattro, A5 Quattro, A6, A6 Quattro, Allroad Quattro, Coupe, Fox, S4, S5, S6, TT, TT Quattro, 80, 90, 200, 4000, 5000.

Sachs
2008 Audi A3 Clutch Kit Sachs - w/o Release Bearing

P311-24563E3    W0133-1957730  New

Qty:
$488.95
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes: Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, Throw-Out Bearing, and Alignment Tool
  • w/o Release Bearing
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2008 - Audi A3 Manual
LUK
2013 Audi A4 Quattro Clutch Kit LUK

P311-5593D21    W0133-1958273  New

Qty:
$632.21
LUK Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • 240mm
  • 240mm, Includes Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, & Pilot Brg.
Brand: LUK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Fuel Type
2013 - Audi A4 Quattro Manual GAS
Rhino Pac
1997 Audi A4 Quattro Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.8L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-5AD58F3    02-027  New

Qty:
$216.21
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9'' Audi, Volkswagen clutch kit
  • To VIN #8DV180 000; DMF;This Application uses a Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF). There are Solid Flywheel Replacement Kits Available: 02-030 (Includes Solid Flywheel) and 02-031 (Without Flywheel).
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.000 X .938 X 23t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Audi A4 Quattro L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1781
Sachs
2001 Audi A6 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 2.8L Sachs

P311-3CE3BF2    K70007-01  New

Qty:
$209.82
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; Kit Only; O.D : 9 1/2 ;I.D : 15/16 ;TEETH : 23T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Audi A6 V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2771
Sachs
1997 Audi A4 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 2.8L Sachs

P311-3CE3BF2    K70007-01  New

Qty:
$209.82
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; (to ch. #8D-V-180 000); Kit Only; O.D : 9 1/2 ;I.D : 15/16 ;TEETH : 23T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Audi A4 V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2771
Sachs
1997 Audi A4 Quattro Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 2.8L Sachs

P311-3CE3BF2    K70007-01  New

Qty:
$209.82
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; (to ch. #8D-V-170 678); Kit Only; O.D : 9 1/2 ;I.D : 15/16 ;TEETH : 23T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Audi A4 Quattro V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2771
Sachs
2001 Audi A4 Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 2.8L Sachs

P311-3CE3BF2    K70007-01  New

Qty:
$209.82
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; (fr. ch. #8D-V-180 001); Kit Only; O.D : 9 1/2 ;I.D : 15/16 ;TEETH : 23T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Audi A4 V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2771
Sachs
2001 Audi A4 Quattro Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 2.8L Sachs

P311-3CE3BF2    K70007-01  New

Qty:
$209.82
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; (fr. ch. #8D-V-170 679); Kit Only; O.D : 9 1/2 ;I.D : 15/16 ;TEETH : 23T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Audi A4 Quattro V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2771
Sachs
2002 Audi TT Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.8L Sachs

P311-3ABAD5F    K70038-02F  New

Qty:
$335.34
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; Kit with Solid Flywheel; O.D : 9 ;I.D : 7/8 ;TEETH : 28T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Audi TT L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1781
Valeo
2002 Audi TT Clutch Kit Valeo

P311-4232B9B    W0133-1735901  New

Qty:
$422.98
Valeo Clutch Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • DMF Conversion Kit
  • Solid Flywheel Conversion Kit
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Audi TT

Latest Audi Repair and Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Ac compressor rattle in old Audi

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From capman on Ac compressor rattle in old Audi

84 audi 4000S , 1.8 litre

Took great pains not long ago to totally rebuild AC system as old compressor suffered "black death". All new lines, evaporator, receiver/drier, condenser, expansion valve, and last but not least put on a rebuilt York Mini compressor but used my old clutch. Carefully put in exact amount of oil called for with the compressor and then had rebuilt system charged commercially.
Worked great for about 6 to 8 weeks. Then compressor started rattling, particularly noticeable a low rpms. Thought mounting bolts had loosened so I torqued those back up and it seems to help the first time I did so but it recurred shortly thereafter. I then started thinking belt was maybe loose so I carefully tightened it to spec (.39 inch deflection). Maybe a little better for a few days. Not long after that it started rattling as bad as ever and no amount of tightening of bolts or belt help. Clutch seems to engage smoothly and I see on deviation or wobble as it is turning when engaged.
Thoughts? Cheap rebuilt compressor (Factory Air brand) crapping out? I am pretty sure a refrigerant overcharge can cause rattle but I have put no more refrigerant in it since it was professionally filled.. Can a moderate undercharge do so also? Other ideas?? thanks

Response From capman

thanks. all makes sense. I will try your suggestions. By the way, I did disconnect the compressor clutch. Was afraid I might be headed for another meltdown if not careful.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ok: Don't wait as you could end up right where you started again!

Yes - low charge COULD do this as it wouldn't carry much oil with the refrigerant as it should. Take pressures and temp observations at once and find the leak. Leaks can happen anytime without any good reason.

Also - Rebuilts and new alike can have failures. This should be under warranty as you did replace the filter/drier which they would call you on.

A maybe: Try spraying some WD-40 on the belt and see if that shuts it completely up for a short while. If so - the belt itself new or not might be the issue! No kidding on that and they can do that with just a certain load or for any reason. Rule that out. If it does respond to WD-40 and is perfect hit back for tricks or more ideas.


Still there? If pressures and performance are right then persue a replacement compressor under warranty before it throws junk thru system again which it will if left unattended. Unplug the clutch so it can't work to prevent further damage as you may be fine with just the compressor right now.

It's unlikely that the clutch is doing this unless the noise is also heard with the compressor OFF.

Side note: Any replacement compressor should be spun with new oil many times before it's charged and operational. There's a period of time if charged while running (most places will only be able to do that way) where it's not full along the way and running dry till you approach fully charged. Severe damage can happen with new/rebuilt units if that's not tended to. The charge carries the oil for continued lubrication.

Act fast - save aggrevation now,

T

cannot engage gears

Showing 4 out of 8 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on cannot engage gears

car clutch won't engage no matter what gear I am in, depressing the clutch seems to do nothing though the clutch pedal feels no different than it ever has. However, I'm in constant neutral. The first time I experienced this fault I pushed the car into a parking space after which I found that it engaged gear again only to have the fault occur a few miles down the road. help!

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

audi a4 avant 1.9tdi 1998 car clutch won't engage no matter what gear I am in, depressing the clutch seems to do nothing though the clutch pedal feels no different than it ever has. However, I'm in constant neutral. The first time I experienced this fault I pushed the car into a parking space after which I found that it engaged gear again only to have the fault occur a few miles down the road. help!

Response From Double J

not too familiar with audi's at all....do you know if it has a clutch cable or is it a wet (hydraulic) clutch??
if hydraulic...check fluid level..if low could be leaking somewhere (slave cylinder)or just worn ?
if cable check to see if cable is moving when pedal is depressed....
just some thoughts..don't know if i'm helping or not...

Response From Double J

i'm getting booted off the 'puter for now....i'll check back later.....maybe 1 of the others will add some thoughts...

how long has current clutch been in the car.....???
i assume you drive a stick shift welll.....
i had a buddy years ago that i had to replace his clutch every 3-5 thousand miles...he could not drive a stick for nothing but since we all had one he had to try and be a part ....i was the only one who knew or so he thought...lol.

Response From Guest

I have had many cars and do 20k+ per annum, never had any unusual clutch problems . I believe that it has a hydraulic clutch.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I might not be helping much either but I'll try. The hydraulic linkage should be just that - linkage. The clutch is still a friction disc and can wear out and this sounds like a wear out. If you got 175k out of a clutch I'd consider that pretty good! I've known people who you could just mark a calendar for the next replacement like JIM N said. 175k is not indicative of problem driving and even half that could be excused,

T

Response From Double J

what kind of vehicle we talking about....i.e. year ,make,model,mileage etc...

what came to mind when reading your post without knowing what kinda vehicle it is..was just recently i had a dodge neon with a modular clutch assembly.....acted the same way..pedal felt no different...clutch was burnt out....needed replacement.....
modular clutch assy is a complete unit with flywheel,pressure plate,disc,bearing...
designed this way for ease during initial assy at the plant...eliminates the need to align clutch..
just a thought......post back...

Response From Guest

audi a4 avant 1.9tdi 1998, miles 175k

My car jumps

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From navid on My car jumps

I have an Audi A4 multitronic transmission car which after coming to a complete stop like on a stop sign or red light when I accelerate the car jumps( like a manual car jumps in 1st gear if u leave clutch too early). It is completely fine on high speed. Any idea?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Rule out low trans fluid and motor/trans mounts first,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Depending what year it is, there is likely no way to check the fluid level.

1999 1/2 VW JETTA DIED COMPLETELY GOOD BATTERY GENERATOR LIGHT ON CONSTANTLY NO HORN NOTHING

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From RUSSPROPHETT99 on 1999 1/2 VW JETTA DIED COMPLETELY GOOD BATTERY GENERATOR LIGHT ON CONSTANTLY NO HORN NOTHING

HEY ALL, THANKS FOR HELPING, I COULD REALLY USE IT, 99 JETTA JUST DIED, POWER TO STARTER BUT NO IGNITION AT ALL, CLUTCH PUSHED IN. NO LIGHTS, LOCKS, WINDOWS,RADIO OR ANYTHING. PLEASE HELP. THANKS A LOT.

Response From Discretesignals

Which engine?

Response From RUSSPROPHETT99

it is a 2.0, 5 speed manual, 4 door. thank you so much .

Response From Discretesignals

Do you have a multimeter or 12 volt test lamp handy?

Response From RUSSPROPHETT99

yes, i have a multimeter

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The engine cranks but doesn't run? At the same time you do not have lights. Does that include head lamps?

If you have ever tried to read VW/AUDI track schematics, they are really difficult to interpret. If the starter is operating you should have power to the ignition switch. Just have to figure out what the other stuff you mentioned that doesn't work has in common.

Response From Discretesignals

There is a module in the vehicle called a comfort control module which is another name for a body control module. It controls various body functions such as lamps, window, lock, etc. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have the module scanned to see if it alive and communicating. There also might be some other computer modules that could be storing trouble codes that might help isolate what is going on. That bad part is the module can only be accessed by a high end scan tool or the factory scan tool. You'll probably have to get it to a repair shop that has that capability or a dealer to see what is going on. We could be checking circuits all day long, but we won't know if there are any modules that are down without communicating with them first.

Response From RUSSPROPHETT99

it wont crank, i getnothing but the battery light gets a little brighter whenin crank position but no noise no anything has power. i appreciate the help very much thank you

Response From Discretesignals

When you tested the battery, how was it tested? Are the battery cables clean and tight?

Exhaust hitting underbody

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mcrowe2012 on Exhaust hitting underbody

I have a 96 Audi A4 AWD 5 speed. The guy i bought it from didn't do a very good job at taking out the exhaust when the CV joint broke. When i got the car the exhaust was taken off/cut in multiple spots. since then i have attempted to weld everything back together (not the best at welding) but it is quite now. one thing i did notice that after putting the exhaust back on it seems to be hitting the body of the car (kinda in the middle of the car) the previous owner cut the rubber mounts off the exhaust aswell as the frame. I am not sure how to stop the hitting on the undercarriage. ive checked the heat sheilds and they seem intact but it sounds like it hits the middle portion of the car when i release the clutch and go to drive it, sounds almost like a banging or rubbing. I am TOTALLY LOST! I can move the exhaust around by hand and kinda reenact the sound but it doesnt do it at idle... PLEASE HELP!! Thanks in advanced!!

Personal info deleted

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This whole thing is making no sense at all.
Why your exhaust system is cut into pieces I have no idea
Why it had to be removed for a C/V axle I have no idea
and what you expect us to do about the exhaust system you hacked up I have no idea.

Take it to an exhaust shop and get all the hacked up pipes replaced.