802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Clutch Master Cylinder

Choose a Year for your Mazda 's Clutch Master Cylinder

  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
  • 1972
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Centric
    Centric
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Exedy
    Exedy
  • FTE
    FTE
  • Febi
    Febi
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • LuK
    LuK
  • Nabtesco
    Nabtesco
  • Rhino Pac
    Rhino Pac
  • Sachs
    Sachs
  • Seiken
    Seiken
  • Valeo
    Valeo

Best Selling Genuine Mazda Clutch Master Cylinders

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Centric, Febi, FTE, Beck Arnley, Sachs
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mazda Replacement Clutch Master Cylinder Parts

We stock Clutch Master Cylinder parts for most Mazda models, including B2200, B2300, B2600, B3000, MPV, MX6, Miata, Protege, RX7, RX8, Tribute, 3, 5, 6, 626.

Centric
Qty:
$52.25
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Centric Premium Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts Brake Master Cylinders match original equipment parts in quality, configuration and fitment. Cylinders are complete with reservoirs, switches, and floats and are offered with the original aluminum casting body design where applicable. Product is manufactured under the highest quality standards by OEM and OES manufacturers.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mazda B4000
Febi
2011 Mazda 3 Sport Clutch Master Cylinder Febi

P311-486FF30    W0133-1841699  New

Qty:
$52.71
Febi Clutch Master Cylinder
Brand: Febi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2011 - Mazda 3 Sport GX
FTE
2011 Mazda 3 Sport Clutch Master Cylinder FTE

P311-1B9E533    W0133-1841699  New

Qty:
$110.01
FTE Clutch Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: FTE
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2011 - Mazda 3 Sport GX
Beck Arnley
2005 Mazda Miata Clutch Master Cylinder 4 Cyl 1.8L Beck Arnley

P311-2B34687    072-8637  New

Qty:
$34.77
Beck Arnley Clutch Master Cylinder
  • CLUTCH MASTER CYL
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mazda Miata Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1839
Beck Arnley
2008 Mazda RX-8 Clutch Master Cylinder 2 Cyl 1.3L Beck Arnley

P311-3B04499    072-9589  New

Qty:
$62.62
Beck Arnley Clutch Master Cylinder
  • CLUTCH MASTER CYL
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mazda RX-8 R 2 Cyl 1.3L - 1308
Centric
2008 Mazda 6 Clutch Master Cylinder Centric - C-TEK Clutch Master Cylinder

P311-07806C4    137.45400  New

Qty:
$20.14
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • C-Tek Standard Clutch Master Cylinder
  • C-TEK Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Mazda 6
Centric
Qty:
$24.98
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • C-Tek Standard Clutch Master Cylinder
  • C-TEK Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mazda 626 V 6 Cyl 2.5L - 2497
Centric
1999 Mazda Miata Clutch Master Cylinder Centric - C-TEK Clutch Master Cylinder

P311-34E9681    137.45800  New

Qty:
$30.30
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • C-Tek Standard Clutch Master Cylinder
  • C-TEK Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Miata
Sachs
1994 Mazda B4000 Clutch Master Cylinder 6 Cyl 4.0L Sachs

P311-5E6FAD2    SH5063  New

Qty:
$55.32
Sachs Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Standard
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Mazda B4000 V 6 Cyl 4.0L - 4016
Sachs
2004 Mazda Tribute Clutch Master Cylinder 4 Cyl 2.0L Sachs

P311-0D3973C    SH5195  New

Qty:
$69.53
Sachs Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Standard
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mazda Tribute L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1989

Latest Mazda Repair and Clutch Master Cylinder Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

New Clutch Master Cylinder Defective??

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Ferenczy36 on New Clutch Master Cylinder Defective??

1999
Mazda
Miata MX-5
1.8 litre 4-cyl
81,000 miles
Old clutch master cylinder was leaking so purchased a new replacement. When bench bleeding the new master cylinder, noticed that when depressing the plunger, the internal spring was not always returning the plunger back to the close position. Is this normal?
Installed in car and unit works, however had a lot of trouble getting it to prime/pressurize by pumping the pedal. I actually was able to get a gravity feed started to the slave which bled the air out and got things working. However pedal has too much free play at the upper end, and the engage point could be adjusted a little. Going to adjust the linkage on the pedal but trying to figure out if this also may have something to do with the master cylinder and the plunger not fully returning to closed position. Thoughts?

Response From Discretesignals

I really don't think it is normal for the plunger to not return to the home position while your bench bleeding it. All the adjustment does is change the pedal height. Freeplay is automatically taken up by the clutch master.

Response From Ferenczy36 Top Rated Answer

I took the car to Clutch Mart (local transmission shop) as they offer free adjustments. Less than 5 minutes later, pedal adjusted. Things feeling a little more normal now, although it seems the clutch should fully engage a little sooner in the pedal travel. I was a little worried it may not be fully engaging, but did a couple of hard take offs and nothing is slipping so I think I'm all good.
If I do run into any more issues will be taking the master cylinder back and try another since it has a lifetime warranty on it.
Thanks!

Response From Discretesignals

Good to read you got it taken care of. Thanks for the follow up. Closed as solved and can be reopened upon request by the original poster.

94 Mazda clutch problem

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From DennyV on 94 Mazda clutch problem

1994 Mazda B2200, 5 speed standard, motor L4, engine 2.2L, 110,000 miles

All of a sudden I had no clutch, so put a new one in. I still have no clutch power. I have fluid, so I think the hydraulics work efficiently. No fluid goes to the master clutch plate. The slave doesn't get fluid either. Any ideas? Thanks!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Do you mean that you have no resistance in the clutch pedal while depressing it? Or, do you mean that you can start the engine, push in the clutch, and put in any gear..and still won't move? Just because the clutch master cylinder is full of fluid, doesn't eliminate a hydraulic problem. Try bleeding the master cylinder, first. Then, bleed the rest of the system at the slave cylinder. The bleeder on the slave will have to be higher than the unit, so you may have to unbolt it from the bell housing and hold it up while bleeding to get any air that might be trapped in the slave. If bleeding doesn't help, you may have a faulty master cylinder (or slave).

Response From DennyV

I've done that... and have no resistence - haven't tried to put it gear as I know that's useless at this point. Now just have to figure out if the new master cylinder I just put in is faulty or if it's the new slave. Dang! GURR!

BTW, Do you have much snow down there in the Vancouver/Portland area, I assume? We have over three feet up here at Cheney. Nice today, but another storm is coming. Thanks, for the reply and have a Happy New Year!
NE WA -Denny

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Just a side note. These master cylinders are problematic. You must follow the bleeding instuctions exactly or you will have the problem you described. I have done battle with these several times and they can be a real pain. If it didn't come with bench bleeding instructions I can post what I have done for you. Good Luck

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Cheney? I heard that you guys got hit pretty hard. No, ours is nearly gone. Only had about 18". Has been raining and in the mid 40's for three days, now. Those hydraulic systems can be a real PIA to bleed. Hopefully, just air. Be sure to buy NEW, not remans. Good luck.

Response From DennyV

Yeah, we have lots of snow, but the roads are clear. I am giving up until I can return and get another master cylinder. Guess I'll go drop the tranny again. Hopefully I'll get it fixed and running again by next week-end. IT's a PIA all right and more.
Thanks, I could use some luck, too. -Denny

2010 Mazda 3 i Intermittent 2nd Gear Grind

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From BlooRaccoon on 2010 Mazda 3 i Intermittent 2nd Gear Grind

Hey all,

I'm new and and don't know much about cars, and looking for a little bit of advice. I just purchased a used manual car with 30k miles. It has a 1 year bumper to bumper and 100k power train warranty. After I purchased it, every so often when trying to shift from 1st to 2nd it wouldn't go into gear and have a loud grinding noise. At first I thought it could just be some poor driving on my part, but I have been driving manual for a few years now. I made sure that my clutch was fully depressed when this was happening. This was happening anywhere from 2K rpms and up, so I wasn't redlining it or anything. I did a lot of research and talk to a lot of my car buddies. Everything is pointing to a synchro problem. I took it into the dealership just now and instantly they're telling me its a clutch issue, which I know is not cover under warranty. I knew the clutch did need replacing when I first drove it. This is why my salesman cut me a "deal" with $300 off the car price for that issue. I guess my question is, could it really be a clutch issue? If I go back and they're telling me this, I would just like to be as well informed as possible so I don't get taken advantage of. Thanks for any advice in advance.

2010
Mazda 3 i
2.0 Manual
30k Miles

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This has a known needed clutch job at 30K? Previous owner/driver didn't know how to driver one very well.

Hard to say if 2nd gear only but hydraulic clutch linkage could be a factor or cause. $300 off for known clutch job wasn't a good deal,

T

Response From BlooRaccoon

Yea, I know now that $300 off wasn't a good deal. I thought it was because it only cost me $400 to replace on my old 2001 Elantra. Then I looked up clutch prices for my Mazda after :p. Ill do some research on the linkage though. Thanks for the response. Anything I can research is of great help.

Response From Hammer Time

If you can shift it into every gear, let the clutch out and it doesn't move or stall the engine, you have a wiped out clutch. It's definitely not a hydraulic problem. Make sure you didn't break or lose an axle.

Response From BlooRaccoon

Sitting still and shifting through there was no issue/noise, though reverse does give me trouble sometimes. As for the clutch, yea it does move/stall my car when I lift up/release. The clutch is still fine, I don't abuse it so it should last me a long while. Would just prefer to have at least %50 on it, not the %10-%20 that it feels now. The fluids are good, and I see no signs of any loss.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, I don't get it. What is the issue you have?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bloo: You can't tell how much wear is left on a clutch or life left in it by % like that. If it slips as HT described it's game over soon. What can cause shifting trouble is a clutch that doesn't release or only partially. Master cylinders can do that or the slave but shouldn't be picking on ONE gear to shift differently within reason.

Whatever or who suggested this needed a clutch to begin with probably just tossed that out off the top of their head because there was a problem known they didn't want to deal with,

T

Response From BlooRaccoon

When I test drove the car I noticed the weak clutch. He was claiming it was just the Mazda feel to it. So I asked him to let me try another manual of the same model and could tell a difference right away. I was just throwing that % out there, not really sure how much clutch is left. That just kinda how I see it in my head :p.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This really isn't worth discussing. What the heck is a "weak" clutch? Easy to push or slipping? For all anyone knows someone put an oil in the hydraulic master cylinder of this and it just hasn't finished failing.

Seriously - take it to a transmission specialty shop and spring for 1/2 hour of time if they will do less than one hour increments and get an idea of what is wrong which about can't be known in full until this is taken apart. Salesperson got you IMO,

T

Response From BlooRaccoon

By weak clutch I meant it wouldn't start to engage until my foot was almost off the clutch. Seem like the salesman did get me. I'll see what the transmission shop has to say. Was just trying to figure out what the problem was so I know if it was covered under warranty. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my questions guys. Sorry if my explanations were difficult to understand.

Response From Hammer Time

That means the clutch is worn out.

Response From nickwarner

Agree with Tom and HT, your clutch is shot and you got taken for more than a test drive. If he was willing to knock off $800 and you were able to change it yourself I might've done it but with a blown clutch at only 30k I have a feeling this car got pounded hard by some kid from day 1. Maybe that kid is looking to buy a BMW now. Who knows at this point.

Response From BlooRaccoon

Yea I know the clutch is gone. I just wanted to know if that could be the cause for the 2nd gear only grind.

Response From nickwarner

To drive this hard enough to wreck a clutch this fast, your worst hammering on the driveline is 2nd gear. Might use first quick to get out of an intersection but grab second and drop the hammer. Sit near a high school once when it lets out and listen to the cars as the kids leave. Easy to tell who has a stick shift. When they hit 2nd they floor it and wind it to redline before grabbing third. Worst wear occurs to 2nd because the car isn't moving fast but has full throttle power applied against it.

The kids who have poor families are easy to spot. Their cars are older than them and they paid for it from a minimum wage job so they drive nicely on them. Look for the flashy ones. Those are the kids who got what they wanted from their parents and don't repect it. Thats what made this car happen. No other reason to waste a clutch at 30k.

Response From BlooRaccoon

Sorry, my 2nd gear will randomly grind and not go into gear at all up-shifting from 1st gear. It happens about %5 above 2k rpms.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

?? Wiped out clutch if just worn out not in pieces shouldn't be grinding gears or picking on just one? I think this has some prior driver issues,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Too new to guess if there are any basic changes but doubt it with linkage.

The confusion is that it seems to pick on 2nd gear but for a test just make sure fluid (not oil) is at proper level at the CLUTCH'S master cylinder (check but usually DOT 3 brake fluid) and just with engine idling in neutral try to go thru the gears with clutch depressed plenty and slowly shift thru each with a wait in neutral in between. Any "zipping'' or mashing/grinding of gears suggests clutch is not fully DISENGAGED and should show up worse trying reverse.

Of course none of that is good for the transmission. If it still picked on just 2nd I still don't think just one part inside (synchro) would be the end of it.

Back to fluid level. If that is found below the normal range do look for leaks but hydraulic system can fail or part fail without leaks too,

T

Bled clutch. Now no clutch pressure at all. DESPERATE TO SOLVE ISSUE!

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From brc19761 on Bled clutch. Now no clutch pressure at all. DESPERATE TO SOLVE ISSUE!

Hi, my Dad has a very well cared for 2001 Mazda B3000 5sp manual tranny 2wd truck (same truck as a Ford Ranger). The transmission started making a noise a few weeks ago. We drained the fluid and put in fresh, did not solve the problem. The tranny and clutch worked fine just made a horrible noise every now and then. We knew it needed a new clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. We had already priced the parts. My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week. We were just waiting for him to get a weekend off to tackle the problem.

Someone told him at work that before tearing into the tranny try and bleed the clutch and see if it helped. Well a couple of days ago my Dad just opened the valve on the slave cylinder and pumped the clutch a few times to try and bleed it. Since then he has no clutch watsoever. There is no clutch pressure. We have pumped and bled, pumped and bled. I have searched the internet over to try and find out what we could be doing wrong. Tried all of the remedies found on the net. But still no clutch.

Is there anything we are doing wrong? Or is there any tricks or procedures we could try? This is his only way to work. All he did was release the slave cylinder bleeder on the tranny. No new parts or nothing. He had perfect clutch pedal before he did this. We are so baffled. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

brc

Response From valvebody

Hi there !

It depends on the noise you hear and when you hear it because if its there all the time that mean its inside the trans but if you hear it just while you push the pedal or when you need to shift that means your clutch cylinder or pressure plat or throw out bearing has issues. So maybe you need to discribe more about the noise and when it starts .


Also I think there is air inside the oil line, maybe when you or your dad was pumping the pedal to bleed the cylinder there was air coming back. so try to do it again.

let him pump the pedal while your hand on the cylinder plug and after he pumps for 5 or 6 time tell him to push the pedal all the way down and hold it , then open the plug and let the air come out then close the plug and tell him to pump again and do the same operation until he feels more pressure on the pedal and dont forget to add fluid before it runs out . if it still bad maybe you will need to rebuild the clutch cylinder or buy new one.

Good luck buddy

Response From brc19761

Thanks so much for the reply. We are not really concerned about the noise at this point. It is not much of an issue. The problem that we can't solve is getting the clutch back working. We have done the procedure you mentioned about pumping the clutch and opening the valve and filling the resevior to get the air out. We have pumped and bled so much this weekend that we would have take turns b/c our legs would give out. We went through three full bottles of brake fluid in the process.

We just don't know what to do.

Thanks again,

brc

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

brc19761; I agree. Sounds like a hydraulic problem... Just like a brake master cylinder, if you are 'foot' bleeding, it is very easy to go past the normal pedal travel and rupture the cup in the cylinder. Clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders should always be replaced as a set. If money is tight, I'd go with the master, first.
Check up under the dash, where the pushrod comes out through the firewall. Pull back the rubber boot and see if any moisture is present. If so, no-brainer. Replace the master cylinder. I prefer to gravity bleed hydraulic systems, but doesn't always work. But, with a new master, you should be able to 'foot' bleed without any further issues.

Response From valvebody

Well my friend i think you got a check teh salve and master cylinder because if the seals inside are worn out that means they dont hold pressure, So you can just change it or rebuild it .

The same thing happend to me 5 years ago and drove me crazy i was pumping for hours and the pedal still the same thing untill i changed the master cylinder and everything went well.

Good luck buddy