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Sachs
2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Clutch Master Cylinder Sachs

P311-3820C49    W0133-1693932  New

Qty:
$114.39
Sachs Clutch Master Cylinder
Brand: Sachs
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Vehicle
2001 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD
Dorman
1996 Chevrolet S10 Clutch Master Cylinder 4 Cyl 2.2L Dorman

P311-0E892FD    W0133-1865821  New

Qty:
$173.36
Dorman Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Does NOT Include Clutch Master Cylinder Hose
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - Chevrolet S10 L 2190 134
PBR
1988 Chevrolet Astro Clutch Master Cylinder PBR

P311-255D9F1    W0133-1687498  New

Qty:
$52.63
PBR Clutch Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1988 - Chevrolet Astro
LUK
2005 Chevrolet Corvette Clutch Master Cylinder LUK

P311-561DEDA    W0133-1865739  New

Qty:
$114.12
LUK Clutch Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: LUK
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Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Corvette
Dorman
2001 Chevrolet Corvette Clutch Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-0725B64    W0133-1690424  New

Qty:
$147.23
Dorman Clutch Master Cylinder
  • w/o Bolts
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle Submodel
2001 - Chevrolet Corvette Z06
Dorman
1997 Chevrolet Corvette Clutch Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-0725B64    W0133-1690424  New

Qty:
$147.23
Dorman Clutch Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1997 - Chevrolet Corvette
ACDelco
2006 Chevrolet Aveo Clutch Master Cylinder ACDelco

P311-149F130    W0133-1887728  New

Qty:
$120.02
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Clutch Slave Cylinder
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2006 - Chevrolet Aveo
Dorman
2005 Chevrolet Cavalier Clutch Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-34C42C4    W0133-1942135  New

Qty:
$209.49
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Cavalier
Centric
1996 Chevrolet S10 Clutch Master Cylinder 4 Cyl 2.2L Centric

P311-2AB6ED4    136.66007  New

Qty:
$54.91
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - Chevrolet S10 L 2190 134
Sachs
1985 Chevrolet Astro Clutch Master Cylinder - N/A 4 Cyl 2.5L Sachs

P311-2FD0A40    SH5379  New

Qty:
$41.85
Sachs Clutch Master Cylinder  N/A
  • Standard
Brand: Sachs
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Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1985 - Chevrolet Astro L 2474 151 N/A
Centric
1999 Chevrolet Tracker Clutch Master Cylinder 4 Cyl 2.0L Centric

P311-0CA3ABF    136.48001  New

Qty:
$29.36
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Block CC CID
1999 - Chevrolet Tracker L - 122
Centric
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier Clutch Master Cylinder 4 Cyl 2.2L Centric

P311-4884B71    136.62032  New

Qty:
$66.68
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2000 - Chevrolet Cavalier L 2190 134
Centric
1994 Chevrolet K1500 Clutch Master Cylinder 6 Cyl 4.3L Centric

P311-5417B50    136.66009  New

Qty:
$63.28
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Block CC CID
1994 - Chevrolet K1500 V - 262
Centric
1995 Chevrolet C1500 Clutch Master Cylinder 6 Cyl 4.3L Centric

P311-5417B50    136.66009  New

Qty:
$63.28
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Early Production
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Chevrolet C1500 V - 262
Centric
1995 Chevrolet C1500 Clutch Master Cylinder 6 Cyl 4.3L Centric

P311-5417B50    136.66009  New

Qty:
$63.28
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Late Production
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Chevrolet C1500 V - 262
Centric
1988 Chevrolet Corvette Clutch Master Cylinder Centric

P311-2114DB6    136.62002  New

Qty:
$39.02
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle
1988 - Chevrolet Corvette
Sachs
1998 Chevrolet Camaro Clutch Master Cylinder - N/A 6 Cyl 3.8L Sachs

P311-2A8CFD1    SH5182  New

Qty:
$68.02
Sachs Clutch Master Cylinder  N/A
  • Standard
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1998 - Chevrolet Camaro V 3800 231 N/A
Centric
2005 Chevrolet Cobalt Clutch Master Cylinder 4 Cyl 2.0L Centric

P311-484E6CE    136.62039  New

Qty:
$68.63
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
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Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2005 - Chevrolet Cobalt L - 122
Centric
1996 Chevrolet Corvette Clutch Master Cylinder 8 Cyl 5.7L Centric

P311-3F321A6    136.62008  New

Qty:
$35.64
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - Chevrolet Corvette V - 350
Centric
1993 Chevrolet Corvette Clutch Master Cylinder 8 Cyl 5.7L Centric

P311-3F321A6    136.62008  New

Qty:
$35.64
Centric Clutch Master Cylinder
  • L98 LT1
  • Premium Clutch Master Cylinder-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - Chevrolet Corvette V - 350

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Clutch Master Cylinder Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1992 CHEVY 4x4 Won't Go In Gear

Showing 3 out of 34 Posts | Show 31 Hidden Posts
Question From djrebelgal80 on 1992 CHEVY 4x4 Won't Go In Gear

1992 Chevrolet 3/4 ton 4x4, granny gear 5-speed manual transmission (rebuilt summer 2012)- 350 motor, mileage unknown (bought brand new motor Feb. 2012)

When stopped or when first cranking the truck, it will not go from neutral to ANY gear. The only way to get it into gear is to kill the truck, put it in first or reverse, then crank it back up and take off. No problems shifting between gears, just from neutral to first or reverse. Replaced slave cylinder today, didn't fix the problem gear oil was and is full, clutch is still good PLEASE HELP!

Response From Sidom

Who rebuilt the tranny? Hopefully they used new syncros. This almost sounds like a syncro problem......How does the pedal feel??

Response From Hammer Time

Reverse doesn't use synchros.

Response From Sidom

Right.....but he said it won't go into any gear until he stops the engine to put it in gear & then it shifts fine except for 1st & R..... If the pedal is good I would be looking at the rings.....If it pedal feels like cr#p or is low then it's probably in the clutch assembly....

The tranny was torn down a year ago.......if someone cut corners & used old rings cuz they "look good"........well....you know how that goes.....

Got burned one time early one in my career over a pilot bearing....and the damn thing was a bushing at that.......live & learn....

Response From Hammer Time

Something is keeping the input shaft turning when the clutch is fully depressed. The clutch can't be totally disengaging. Even is the synchros were totally wiped out, the shaft would eventually stop turning if the clutch was held in and it would shift then.

Response From djrebelgal80

Thanks y'all for the info! Hubby went and bought a new clutch kit tonight, putting it in this A.M. Hoping and praying that fixes it (he's the only $$ maker, I'm in law school) He had already bought it when I read the responses...will return for update as soon as I know something!

**Just to let yall know, I was reading through the transmission forum last night, trying to get some idea of things that could cause his issue, and I LOVE LOVE LOVE the way y'all respond to some of the folks on here! I got quite a few laughs!!! Thanks again for the input!!

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure he rules out the hydraulics before going that far because replacing all those parts won't help a bad clutch master cylinder.

Response From djrebelgal80

Quick question: If it were a bad master, would he have trouble with the clutch? Would it feel different? I asked him and he said the clutch felt fine, not spongy, not too stiff...he said it was normal...

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This is a hydraulic clutch system. The clutch master cylinder operates the clutch. The way to tell if it is working right is by the amount of free play in the top. Any more than an inch or two of free play would indicate an hydraulic problem.

Response From djrebelgal80

Thanks! He said there's a little play in the top...he's in the process of putting in the new clutch kit right now, then I guess he'll try it out. If it wasn't the clutch, I guess we'll move on to the master cylinder??? And if that doesn't work I guess it'll have to be the synchronizers right?

Response From Hammer Time

And if that doesn't work I guess it'll have to be the synchronizers right?

No, reverse doesn't even use synchronizers.

Response From djrebelgal80

He just told me to ask you how can he tell ifthe flywheel is bad? His has a groove??? in it (his words)

Response From Hammer Time

A flywheel that is grooved from clutch disc rivets digging into it is definitely bad.

Response From djrebelgal80

Ok thanks...so can we have it fixed or do we have to buy a new one?

Response From Hammer Time

If there is actually a groove in it, then it needs a new one. That would have to mean that the clutch disc was totally wiped out to do that.

Response From djrebelgal80

How often should the synchronizers go out?

Response From Hammer Time

They mainly only wear bad when the transmission is abused.

Response From djrebelgal80

oh ok...he doesn't abuse it that I know of, but he does haul heavy stuff...he hauls scrap metal to make a living so there's been times he's had some pretty heavy stuff either in the bed of the truck or behind the truck on his trailer. He's thinking the issue is going to be with either the clutch or master cylinder though. He has to get a new flywheel tomorrow before he can go any further into putting it back together. I will definitely keep this updated, especially if he runs into more problems. Thank ya'll once again for being so helpful! We really appreciate it!

Response From Hammer Time

Synchros get damaged by slamming the shifter around but i assure you that syhchros are not the reason that you can't shift from a dead stop. As i said 3 times, reverse doesn't even use synchros so that rules them out anyway.

Response From djrebelgal80

Gotcha...after we get the new flywheel tomorrow and see if it works I'll update, especially if that doesn't fix the issue...I'll try to describe what it does so that might help

Response From djrebelgal80

He's having trouble getting the pilot bushing? (bearing?) back off. When he was stabbing the transmission back in, his cousin hammered it on, and he needs to get it off, and he doesn't want to tear up anything. We have another bearing/bushing to replace that one, he just wants to know how he can get that one off. Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

That can be very difficult. Usually what we do is use a slide hammer with a hook on the end of it that you catch behind the bushing.

Response From djrebelgal80

Ok he got that fixed. Now having problems putting in the shift forks? We're trying to figure out how they go in, but can't find any diagrams or anything online anywhere! Any links to diagrams would be awesome!

Response From djrebelgal80

OK I just went out there and looked to try and better describe what he's talking about, and the fork things he needs to know about are attached to the top of the transmission. It has a removable top, and when you remove it, they're attached to the top pointind gown into the transmission. Also, there are some metal rings on the transmission itself around the gears. He noticed that they move up and down (back and forth) and would like to know if that's ok. Lastly, he can take the shaft and turn it, and he hears a clicking noise. He's not sure that is supposed to be like that. He's getting really discouraged because we are about to run out of money, and he has no way to make any more because his truck's broken! PLEASE HELP!!!

Response From Discretesignals

Wow. Why did he take the shift tower off the top of the transmission? Which transmission do you have?

Response From djrebelgal80

He has a 5 speed but cannot remember what model. It's aluminum bell housing and iron transmission. The cover comes off on top. He was just checking to make sure there was no metal shards in the casing. He's taken it off several times before and had no problems putting it back on, so that's why he's confused as to what's going on this time.

Response From Discretesignals

NV 4500?


Response From djrebelgal80

I do believe that's it! Although not as greasy or dirty as his though LOL...it looks like it though.

Response From Discretesignals

You can see the three shift fork on the bottom of the cover.



Each fork slides over a sleeve on the mainshaft. You can see the three sleeves in the pic below. Each fork has to be in the groove of each sleeve, they will have to be lined up as you lower the cover onto the top of the transmission. The sleeves are supposed to move back and forth.


Response From djrebelgal80

That's awesome that you can post pics like that to help us! Thank you so much! He looked at them, and I guess I misunderstood what he wanted to know. (Or he worded it wrong to me, IDK) He said it feels like the gears are jammed up. He has reverse, but the others wont go into gear. He said it reminded him of the way his old truck used to behave...the old truck we used to have had a 3 on the tree...the linkages used to get jammed, and he'd have to get out, pop the hood, and unjam them by hand. Now, he just used the little piece inside the transmission to try to shift the gears indide while he was looking at them. It wasn't installed. He HAD it installed and tried to shift and they still wouldn't shift so he's had to take it back out.

Response From Discretesignals

He might have two gears engaged at the same time.

Make sure the sleeves are not engaged into any gear. Each should be in the middle. You'll know the sleeves aren't engaged into any gear because when you turn the input shaft the output shaft doesn't turn along with the input. Then line up your forks and lower the cover. That will make the transmission so it is in neutral. Then install your shifter.

Response From Hammer Time

Shift forks?

What did you take apart?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quick read - sorry: Hydraulics is the linkage not the clutch action itself. If and rare to me too the pilot bushing is the issue it can be replaced. 99% don't need that. It does need a smear of grease but it messed up and sticking somehow it has to go. Damn - been a long time but some puller would be needed as they are pressed in, usually a brass or oil releasing brassy thing.

Notes: Letting a trans hang on just input shaft while you get the whole trans at least snug is so common to mess things up it's nuts. Never let the weight of trans torque on the input shaft! -- T

Response From Hammer Time

It could be a dry pilot bearing but is more likely a clutch problem. It could be an issue with the hydraulics or even the pressure plate. It needs to be looked at by a professional.