Shop Ford Clutch Forks

No its not loose at all..

Bleeding is a pain on those.

I believe I have done the bleeding correctly.

I believe I have done the bleeding correctly.

Not if you still don't have a pedal. These can be very, very difficult to get the air out because the bleeder is at the bottom and the air rises to the top.

Do you have any tricks on how to do it right. I dont know much about clutchs...

We have pressure bleeders, vacuum bleeders and helpers and I have still spent numerous hours trying to get one of these bled out. Sometimes you can get the air to migrate out the top buy just sitting there and pumping and pumping until your leg feels like it's going to fall off.

After I bleed the system, Will this solve my problem of the pedal being on the floor. it just seems like something in the pedal assembly is broken.

If there is enough air in the hydraulic system, the pedal will go to the floor.

Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?

I did not bench bleed the master cylinder. Dont know how to do that..

You bleed it off the vehicle as you would bench bleeding a brake master cylinder.

I've found success by taking the whole system off and getting the slave above the master and bleeding it that way. You want to tilt the master so the air can't be trapped. You need a helper because trying to hold the reservior and all that stuff is almost impossible by yourself. Once you get all the air out, then re-install the whole thing back on the truck as one piece.

I don't remember how it is set up on the master, but I remember doing one where I took the piston out of the master after removing a c clip and filled it up that way and then put it back together.

I will definately try it. Nothing else seems ty be working. Ill let you know how it comes out...

might get light look under dash at peddle linkage ,usually snap means something broke,check for firewall separation at master cyl. mounting surface

Do you have a helper available? That such that you can look while someone else is pushing the pedal and from inside no doubt would need a broom stick such that you could look while it's being pushed. Any parts fall out?

T

Ken has a good point about checking the firewall to make sure it didn't crack.

Guess anything has to be ruled in or out. I've seen my share of whacked stuff- doors near fall off, several bumpers fall right off in the road - the HD real ones, not just the plastic crap but so far not a firewall but who the heck knows? I think they should salt roads more so even bridges collapse and do.

I want a horse. No, last ride dang thing decided it was the Kentucky Derby and stopped short at a fence and I went right over the fence! That was the LAST ride!

Perhaps we need my cat to help check this out - shes' good............



Tom

Quote from an above post"I did not bench bleed the master cylinder. Don't know how to do that.."

Just a note on bench bleeding:

Chose a short YouTube that shows the idea. This show is just for a master cyl. but the same idea. If a kit doesn't come with a new master and I save them just make up your own from a piece of line bent to return under fluid back to master, hold master careful choose how to hold it in a vise, push on where pushrod would full strokes and then short strokes noting bubbles with just whatever works to push. I don't own the gadget tool shown and so far haven't needed it but would be easier to push as the pedal's push rod would.

This must be done even in cooperative master cylinders whether for brakes or a clutch or you'll do battle forever. With a bleeder on the bottom you are facing trouble out of the gate. Must if off car and like DS's trick - all off vehicle but must restrain the slave from blowing out its push action or piston in that would no doubt just pop out and could wreck it to reassemble?

The idea but a bit quick on how this person and hard to see how the master was held but shows the procedure. Hope that's of some help.



Tom

? Doesn't shift or move properly with engine off! That's a clue it's NOT the clutch first but shifter or trans issues possibly from forcing it too long?


T

So the clutch is not releasing allowing you to put it into gear with the engine running?

Has the master ever been replaced?

Yes, the master has been replaced and the line between the two too. Biggest mystery I've ever had.

I'm not sure what the forks are but ball at the bottom of the stick look smooth but worn and well greased. In the pass I have noticed a little tranny fluid up top like It's splashing out , but not a lot.

pull short stick out of trans (shift leaver) do this by pushing retainer down and turning counter clockwise you will find shims and 2 plastic seats,these seats will deteriorate after time.
this causes a lot of shifting problems.

Thank you, I don't have any of them in here.

no problem I've never had to add fluid to it. I think the tranny is fine, old but still good. I have noticed a change in pressure in the pedal. It's got to be 1 of the cylinders . how could something in the transmission cause of clutch not to disengage ?

Actually nothing inside the transmission itself would cause the clutch to not release. We figure since you have a sloppy shifter and having a hard time getting it into gear it would be something worn out.

If the clutch disc isn't releasing and the pedal feels mushy, then your probably on the right track with assuming there is a problem with the master or slave. As I stated, some of those cheapy aftermarket concentric slaves are crappy.

YES! That's what I thought, the guys of the shop can't be right and probly just don't wanna admit that they put in cheap parts . thanks for confirming my suspicions about the transmission .

Haven't seen this problem on the Rangers, but check your firewall where the master bolts to and make sure it isn't flexing when your pressing down the clutch pedal. Also inspect the clutch pedal assembly bushings and make sure the pedal shaft isn't wobbling around.