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Rhino Pac
1971 Ford Bronco Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 5.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-196C3CC    CF101  New

Qty:
$13.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; "To Y80,000, Lever Style"
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1971 - Ford Bronco V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Rhino Pac
1971 Ford Bronco Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 5.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-196C3CC    CF101  New

Qty:
$13.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; "To Y80,000, Diaphragm Option"
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1971 - Ford Bronco V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Rhino Pac
1978 Ford F-150 Clutch Fork 6 Cyl 4.9L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-196C3CC    CF101  New

Qty:
$13.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; "From Y80,001"
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1978 - Ford F-150 L 6 Cyl 4.9L 300 4917
Rhino Pac
1979 Ford Bronco Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 5.8L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-196C3CC    CF101  New

Qty:
$13.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; "To DG0,001"
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1979 - Ford Bronco V 8 Cyl 5.8L 351 5753
Rhino Pac
1977 Ford F-100 Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 6.6L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-196C3CC    CF101  New

Qty:
$13.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; "To DG0,000, Lever Style"
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1977 - Ford F-100 V 8 Cyl 6.6L 400 -
Rhino Pac
1972 Ford E-200 Econoline Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 5.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-196C3CC    CF101  New

Qty:
$13.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; Diaphragm Option
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1972 - Ford E-200 Econoline V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Rhino Pac
1971 Ford E-100 Econoline Clutch Fork 6 Cyl 2.8L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-196C3CC    CF101  New

Qty:
$13.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; Lever Style
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1971 - Ford E-100 Econoline L 6 Cyl 2.8L 170 -
Rhino Pac
1994 Ford F Super Duty Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 7.3L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; Indirect
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Ford F Super Duty Turbocharged V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Rhino Pac
1987 Ford F-250 Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 6.9L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; Solid Flywheel Option Must Use Flywheel 167325
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Ford F-250 V 8 Cyl 6.9L 420 -
Rhino Pac
1991 Ford F-350 Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 7.3L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; "Optional 12"" Clutch Set with Rigid Disc Must Use Dual Mass Flywheel 167755"
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Ford F-350 V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Rhino Pac
1995 Ford F Super Duty Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 7.3L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; Direct
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Ford F Super Duty Turbocharged V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Rhino Pac
1995 Ford F-350 Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 7.3L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; Solid Flywheel Option Must Use Flywheel 167323
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Ford F-350 V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Rhino Pac
1990 Ford F Super Duty Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 7.5L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Ford F Super Duty V 8 Cyl 7.5L 460 -
Rhino Pac
1987 Ford F-250 Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 7.5L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; Except Stripped Chassis
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Ford F-250 5 V 8 Cyl 7.5L 460 -
Rhino Pac
1975 Ford F-500 Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 6.4L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-196C3CC    CF101  New

Qty:
$13.92
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; "With 11-1/2"" Clutch"
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1975 - Ford F-500 V 8 Cyl 6.4L 390 -
Rhino Pac
1987 Ford F-350 Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 6.9L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; With Dual Mass Flywheel
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Ford F-350 V 8 Cyl 6.9L 420 -
Rhino Pac
1997 Ford F-350 Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 7.3L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-380A1B9    CF838  New

Qty:
$18.28
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; "Direct, DMF"
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Ford F-350 Turbocharged V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Rhino Pac
2002 Ford F-350 Super Duty Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 7.3L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-3E7A393    CF839  New

Qty:
$61.21
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; Direct
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Ford F-350 Super Duty Turbocharged V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Rhino Pac
1988 Ford Mustang Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 5.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-57E712B    CF818  New

Qty:
$17.35
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Ford Mustang GT V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Rhino Pac
1988 Ford Mustang Clutch Fork 8 Cyl 5.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-57E712B    CF818  New

Qty:
$17.35
Rhino Pac Clutch Fork
  • ; with Tremec Transmission
  • PREMIUM
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Ford Mustang GT V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -

Latest Ford Repair and Clutch Fork Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1985 Ford F-250 Clutch pedal staying on the floor

Showing 4 out of 20 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From scottyboy1973 on 1985 Ford F-250 Clutch pedal staying on the floor

Got ready to drive. Pushed in the clutch and heard a snap. push in the clutch and the pedal is staying on the floor. Have changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. Dont Know what else to do.

1985 ford f-250 7.5 liter 460 with about 220000 miles.

any help would be greatly appreciated...

Response From Discretesignals

Clutch fork loose down on the transmission?

Response From scottyboy1973

No its not loose at all..

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Clutch fork move if you press down on the pedal?

Also check the clutch pedal and make sure it moves the master cylinder push rod

Did the old master or slave blow out or was low on fluid?

Response From scottyboy1973

Clutch fork is not moving. clutch pedal moves master cylinder push rod, but not the slave cylinder push rod. changed both cylinders trying to fix the problem, but didnt seem to help.

Response From Discretesignals

Bleeding is a pain on those.

Response From scottyboy1973

I believe I have done the bleeding correctly.

Response From Hammer Time

I believe I have done the bleeding correctly.

Not if you still don't have a pedal. These can be very, very difficult to get the air out because the bleeder is at the bottom and the air rises to the top.

Response From scottyboy1973

Do you have any tricks on how to do it right. I dont know much about clutchs...

Response From Hammer Time

We have pressure bleeders, vacuum bleeders and helpers and I have still spent numerous hours trying to get one of these bled out. Sometimes you can get the air to migrate out the top buy just sitting there and pumping and pumping until your leg feels like it's going to fall off.

Response From scottyboy1973

After I bleed the system, Will this solve my problem of the pedal being on the floor. it just seems like something in the pedal assembly is broken.

Response From Discretesignals

If there is enough air in the hydraulic system, the pedal will go to the floor.

Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?

Response From scottyboy1973

I did not bench bleed the master cylinder. Dont know how to do that..

Response From Discretesignals

You bleed it off the vehicle as you would bench bleeding a brake master cylinder.

I've found success by taking the whole system off and getting the slave above the master and bleeding it that way. You want to tilt the master so the air can't be trapped. You need a helper because trying to hold the reservior and all that stuff is almost impossible by yourself. Once you get all the air out, then re-install the whole thing back on the truck as one piece.

I don't remember how it is set up on the master, but I remember doing one where I took the piston out of the master after removing a c clip and filled it up that way and then put it back together.

Response From scottyboy1973

I will definately try it. Nothing else seems ty be working. Ill let you know how it comes out...

Response From kensoncustom

might get light look under dash at peddle linkage ,usually snap means something broke,check for firewall separation at master cyl. mounting surface

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Do you have a helper available? That such that you can look while someone else is pushing the pedal and from inside no doubt would need a broom stick such that you could look while it's being pushed. Any parts fall out?

T

Response From Discretesignals

Ken has a good point about checking the firewall to make sure it didn't crack.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Guess anything has to be ruled in or out. I've seen my share of whacked stuff- doors near fall off, several bumpers fall right off in the road - the HD real ones, not just the plastic crap but so far not a firewall but who the heck knows? I think they should salt roads more so even bridges collapse and do.

I want a horse. No, last ride dang thing decided it was the Kentucky Derby and stopped short at a fence and I went right over the fence! That was the LAST ride!

Perhaps we need my cat to help check this out - shes' good............



Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote from an above post"I did not bench bleed the master cylinder. Don't know how to do that.."

Just a note on bench bleeding:

Chose a short YouTube that shows the idea. This show is just for a master cyl. but the same idea. If a kit doesn't come with a new master and I save them just make up your own from a piece of line bent to return under fluid back to master, hold master careful choose how to hold it in a vise, push on where pushrod would full strokes and then short strokes noting bubbles with just whatever works to push. I don't own the gadget tool shown and so far haven't needed it but would be easier to push as the pedal's push rod would.

This must be done even in cooperative master cylinders whether for brakes or a clutch or you'll do battle forever. With a bleeder on the bottom you are facing trouble out of the gate. Must if off car and like DS's trick - all off vehicle but must restrain the slave from blowing out its push action or piston in that would no doubt just pop out and could wreck it to reassemble?

The idea but a bit quick on how this person and hard to see how the master was held but shows the procedure. Hope that's of some help.



Tom

1989 ford f150 manual transmission problems

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From FROG on 1989 ford f150 manual transmission problems

i have a 1989 ford f150 Lariat with a 4.9Ltr (inline 300) 4x4 with a 4 speed manual transmission, hydraulic clutch my transmission has been getting hard to shift. I blead the clutch, even though it is supposed to be a self bleeding clutch.this did not help at all, as it still was hard to shift. now it is jammed and will not shift in to any gear at all even when the truck is not running. it feels stiff to move from side to side even in neutral. does not move as free as it should. could the slave cylinder be binding the transmission ?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

How does the clutch pedal feel? Is it really spongy? If you go underneath and watch the clutch fork, does it move when someone pushes down on the clutch pedal? Look at where the master bolts to the firewall from inside and make sure the firewall isn't cracked.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Doesn't shift or move properly with engine off! That's a clue it's NOT the clutch first but shifter or trans issues possibly from forcing it too long?


T

tranny/clutch out of ideas 94 ranger 184000 mil

Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From seif4280 on tranny/clutch out of ideas 94 ranger 184000 mil

I have a 94 ford ranger 4 wheel drive standard .I had my a flywheel pressure plate clutch slave cylinder replaced under 7000 miles ago. my clutch feels like the slave cylinder is not moving and has the air in the line. but I have had the slave cylinder and all hydraulic lines have checked for leaks and found no leaks. I was told that there is something in the transmission that could be causing the clutch could not disengage all the way . my stick shift is a bit sloppy . I don't see how something in the transmission to cuz of the slave cylinder not to push to throw out bearing in all the way . this is my fifth time replacing the clutch components and slave cylinder I'm out of ideas has anyone ever actually heard of something in the transmission causing this ? the guys of the shop try and make it sound like the transmission is to blame but I have no idea I've replaced the clutch myself twice before that a friend of a friends replacing it who are mechanics .but this last time I decided to break the bank and have a professional shop installed all the new components .thanks for the help.

Response From Discretesignals

So the clutch is not releasing allowing you to put it into gear with the engine running?

Has the master ever been replaced?

Response From seif4280

Yes, the master has been replaced and the line between the two too. Biggest mystery I've ever had.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

That's a difficult one to give advice on because can't see what is going on. Our shop has had a rash of defective concentric slave cylinders from the aftermarket in the past. Stay far away from the cheap China junk.

How did the clutch fork and ball look when you had it apart last? Have you been losing any fluid in the reservoir?

The transmissions in those are notorious for leaking at the back of the shifter tower. Ford put little rubber plugs that would shrink and allow fluid to leak out. It would run the tranny dry and cause the gears to fuse together which caused all kinds of shifting problems along with major transmission damage.

Response From seif4280

I'm not sure what the forks are but ball at the bottom of the stick look smooth but worn and well greased. In the pass I have noticed a little tranny fluid up top like It's splashing out , but not a lot.

Response From kensoncustom

pull short stick out of trans (shift leaver) do this by pushing retainer down and turning counter clockwise you will find shims and 2 plastic seats,these seats will deteriorate after time.
this causes a lot of shifting problems.

Response From seif4280

Thank you, I don't have any of them in here.

Response From Discretesignals

I don't know why I said clutch fork, because this one is concentric. Duh, sorry.

What kind of fluid did you put into the transmission?
Could be the shift rails are getting worn out and causing shifting troubles. Really hard to say what is wrong without checking it out.

Response From seif4280

no problem I've never had to add fluid to it. I think the tranny is fine, old but still good. I have noticed a change in pressure in the pedal. It's got to be 1 of the cylinders . how could something in the transmission cause of clutch not to disengage ?

Response From Discretesignals

Actually nothing inside the transmission itself would cause the clutch to not release. We figure since you have a sloppy shifter and having a hard time getting it into gear it would be something worn out.

If the clutch disc isn't releasing and the pedal feels mushy, then your probably on the right track with assuming there is a problem with the master or slave. As I stated, some of those cheapy aftermarket concentric slaves are crappy.

Response From seif4280

YES! That's what I thought, the guys of the shop can't be right and probly just don't wanna admit that they put in cheap parts . thanks for confirming my suspicions about the transmission .

Response From Discretesignals

Haven't seen this problem on the Rangers, but check your firewall where the master bolts to and make sure it isn't flexing when your pressing down the clutch pedal. Also inspect the clutch pedal assembly bushings and make sure the pedal shaft isn't wobbling around.