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Cardone
2003 Chrysler Town & Country Engine Control Module 6 Cyl 3.3L Cardone

P311-3C31FF0    79-7683V  Remanufactured

Qty:
$223.97
Cardone Engine Control Module
  • Remanufactured Engine Control Computer
  • Vehicle specific Flash programming required ON or OFF the vehicle.Accurate VIN and mileage are req'd
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Engine Control Computer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector/Terminal Configuration: Pin/male; Pin/male
    • E-Waste: Yes
    • FAQs:
      • Check Engine Light Staying On After Resetting, Engine Turning Off For No Reason, Loss Of Spark, Loss Of Injection Pulse On Fuel Pump, Intermittent Starting Problems.
      • Chrysler Models 1996 And Newer Will Need To Be Vin Programmed.
      • Do All Chrysler Power Train Control Modules (pcm) Need Vin Programming?
      • Do All Ford Vehicles Require A Passive Anti-theft System (p.a.t.s) Reset?
      • Do Gm Vehicles Have A Passive Anti-theft System?
      • Do I Have To Transfer Anything From My Original Ecm/pcm?
      • Do I Need A Scanner To Reset The Anti-theft System
      • Ensure That The Pcm Was Properly Flash Programmed For The Vehicle. Also Note Whether The Vehicle Is Equipped With The Ford "passive Anti-theft System", Which Requires An On-car Relearn.
      • No, Not All Ford Vehicles Require Pats Reset. Check The Pats Chart Found On The O.e. Manufacturer’s Service Site For Your Application.
      • Not Necessarily. There Is A 30-minute Manual Procedure That Can Be Done Without A Scanner. Refer To Your O.e. Manufacturer’s Approved Service Manual For Details.
      • Prior To Replacing The Original Ecm/pcm, The Installer Should Determine What Caused The Original To Fail. Common Causes Of Failures Are: Poor Grounds And Power, A Bad Wiring Harness And Short-circuited Solenoids/relays.
      • Some Gm Applications Have A Knock Module That Must Be Transferred To The Replacement Module. Some Older Ford Applications Have A Calibration Module That Must Be Transferred To The Replacement Module.
      • The Replacement Pcm For A Ford Vehicle Won’t Start The Vehicle. Why?
      • What Are The Most Common Symptoms Of A Bad Pcm?
      • What Steps Should I Take To Ensure The Original Pcm Is Causing The Issue?
      • What’s The Difference Between An Ecm And A Pcm?
      • Yes, Most Gm Vehicles Have A Vats, Pass Key Or Pass Lock Anti-theft System.
      • “ecm” Stands For Electronic Control Module. “pcm” Stands For Powertrain Control Module. Both The Ecm And Pcm Control The Engine; However, The Pcm Also Has Control Over The Transmission.
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Meets O.e. Fit And Function.
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • On-car Vehicle Validation Is Done To Test Durability And Performance.
      • Re-soldering Of Critical Components Ensures Superior Electrical Connections. This Prevents Intermittent Failures And Leads To Longer Product Life.
      • Tested With Automated, Computerized Equipment Or Bench-tested, Depending On Application, To Ensure Functionality.
    • Housing Material: Metal
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Removable PROM: No
    • Terminal Quantity: 40, 40
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Electronic and Powertrain Control Modules are designed to meet or exceed O.E. performance. Reverse engineering provides insight into how and why the unit originally failed, allowing our engineers to identify and correct original design flaws. All critical components are re-soldered or replaced at our Philadelphia manufacturing plant and each unit is 100% computer tested to ensure reliability. CARDONE is committed to getting your vehicle back on the road with our remanufactured electronic and powertrain control modules.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Fuel Type
2003 - Chrysler Town & Country V 3301 201 FLEX
Monroe
2001 Chrysler Town & Country Liftgate Lift Support - N/A Monroe

P311-55A98C5    901373  New

Qty:
$22.21
Monroe Liftgate Lift Support  N/A
  • Monroe Max-Lift Lift Support
  • Product Attributes:
    • Accesorio(s): None
    • Compressed Length: 18.504
    • Extended Length: 25.827
    • Force: 248.000
    • Fuerza: 248.000
    • Longitud Extendida: 25.827
    • Lower Mounting Code: V
    • Max Year Covered: 2007
    • Min Year Covered: 2001
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Dodge Grand Caravan
    • Most Popular Year: 2005
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Tipo de Montura Inferior: V
    • Tipo de Montura Superior: V
    • Total Part VIO: 2127370
    • Travel Length: 7.323
    • Upper Mounting Code: V
    • Viaje: 7.323
Brand: Monroe
Position: N/A
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Chrysler Town & Country N/A
Moog
1991 Chrysler Town & Country CV Joint Boot Kit - Front Outer Moog

P311-0FD0715    7400  New

Qty:
$11.89
Moog CV Joint Boot Kit  Front Outer
  • CV Joint Boot Kit
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Replaces The Oem Fitment
    • Feature 2: Straps Designed To Prevent Contaminants From Entering Boot Cavity
    • Feature 3: Straps Have Superior Strength
    • Feature 4: Boot Material Designed For Strength
    • Feature 5: Convoluted Boots Allow For Increase Articulation
    • Feature 6: Ease Of Installation
  • Over 70 years of aftermarket engineering and product expertise has made MOOG an industry leader in driveline quality and customer satisfaction.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1991 - Chrysler Town & Country FWD Front Outer
KYB
2001 Chrysler Town & Country Suspension Coil Spring Seat KYB

P311-41E8CFE    W0133-1909140  New

Qty:
$41.20
KYB Suspension Coil Spring Seat
Brand: KYB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Chrysler Town & Country
PBR
1987 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Hydraulic Hose PBR

P311-3504148    W0133-1633911  New

Qty:
$38.05
PBR Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Right
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Chrysler Town & Country
Prenco
1990 Chrysler Town & Country Ignition Coil Prenco

P311-341F654    W0133-1669588  New

Qty:
$130.90
Prenco Ignition Coil
Brand: Prenco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Chrysler Town & Country
Mopar
1990 Chrysler Town & Country Engine Mount Mopar

P311-5641F20    W0133-1857115  New

Qty:
$143.76
Mopar Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Chrysler Town & Country
Dorman
2010 Chrysler Town & Country EGR Valve Dorman

P311-2D0381B    W0133-1931390  New

Qty:
$155.12
Dorman EGR Valve
Brand: Dorman
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Fuel Type
2010 - Chrysler Town & Country OHV GAS
Mopar
1996 Chrysler Town & Country Engine Mount Mopar

P311-2B48D72    W0133-1857297  New

Qty:
$84.32
Mopar Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • (Radiator Side)
Brand: Mopar
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Chrysler Town & Country
Mopar
1990 Chrysler Town & Country Engine Timing Cover Gasket Mopar

P311-22C38AC    W0133-1669560  New

Qty:
$20.89
Mopar Engine Timing Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Timing Cover - Oil Inlet to Block
Brand: Mopar
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Chrysler Town & Country

Showing 1 - 10 of 19,466 Products.


Latest Chrysler Town & Country Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1996 Chrysler Town & Country Gas Govener in Park?

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1996 Chrysler Town & Country Gas Govener in Park?

Does the 2006 Chrysler T&C have a govener so you can't redline the engine while in park? It seems to sputter around 300 rpms.

Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You meant 3,000 - right? If it's not restricted around that with no load it should be to save youself from the BIG BANG you'll probably get a chance to witness if you keep trying that!

T

Response From Guest

Your reply was too funny! Yeah I meant 3000. Is that a yes though? It drives just fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't know if this is purposely limited but anything over 2,500 rpm with no load is not a good idea on engines for the most part. Why are you doing this? The resistance of load actually helps hold the engine from blowing up - keep trying and you may find out!

Redline would probably be 4,200 or so (guess) and you could see that and the behavior if you want just flooring it from slow or stop safely on a highway and 1st to 2nd shift would be about the max the engine should ever be exposed to and should handle that - with the load! With good judgement that could be a safe and legal test if you need to know if it can.

You won't catch me testing the no load limits on cars unless I want the exposion - not!

Computer controls for engine in this vintage I would expect to be confused with making automatic adjustments for NO LOAD high rpm.

Again - if the vehicle is running properly for you, why are you doing this????

T

Response From Guest

I'm crying, i'm laughing so hard. No I don't just sit in the van and gun the engine in my spare time.

The reason we gave the van a little gas while in park was I thought I heard a strange engine noise. Then we noticed this governer thing kicking in.

It appears though there could be power steering issues with this van that is common with 2005 & 2006 Chrysler Town and Country.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


If you did just sit in the thing and gun the engine all the time this could happen No problem - it's just one last big bang.......... then no more noise! Good way to meet your neighbors and see how fast emergency response is in your area

Seriously - it could be lots of things. Check all fluids first. See if steering the van while sitting still makes the noise louder - that might be the steering pump/rack. don't force it at end of steering range.

Also check for pulleys that are bad or just a belt noise. Belt noises usually shut up for a while if you shut engine off, spray some WD-40 on the belt and if when started noise is gone get a new belt.

Other noises could be loose parts like air cleaner assy or exhaust heat shields sometimes even when this new. If a rattle or even a buzz it could be exhaust. Sometimes you can find those with engine off just tapping on pipes with a rubber hammer.

Are you still under warranty with this thing?

T

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

i believe its a sort of Rev Limiter.

the newer fords dont rev past 3,000 without the iginition cutting out also

2003Chrysler Town & Country

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From rnofx5 on 2003Chrysler Town & Country

My 2003 Chrysler Town & Country jerks when I brake down to 30 MPH. What could be the problem? The Car has 100,800 miles on it. Please Help!!

Response From rnofx5

I think it's in the transmission. Every time I decelerate down to 30 MPH the car gives a jerk then rides fine until I decelerate down to 30 MPH again. Is it the start of something or am I screwed?

Response From DanD

Still every difficult to answer your question.
I suggest having the vehicle at least road tested and checked by a technician. If this is a transmission issue and caught in time; it may turn out to be a repair, rather then a rebuild.

Dan.

Response From rnofx5 Top Rated Answer

Sorry I'm being so vague, but I know nothing about cars or car repair. I just know what's happening while i'm driving it. If it is of any help, this started happening after I was in reverse coming out of my driveway. When I put it into drive, the car wouldn't switch gears even though I had it in drive. I had to put the car in park and then put into drive again. After that the jerking started to happen.

Response From DanD

Can you give us a little better description; as in is it the engine/transmission (drivetrain) or brakes that are jerking? Does this jerking stop when the brake is released?

Dan.

2001 Chrysler town & country won't start /alarm malfunction

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dmac on 2001 Chrysler town & country won't start /alarm malfunction

When exitng the. van alarm went off and I don't have an alarm key now van won't start

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I suggest you find the key. If aftermarket (likely) find out who installed it for help,

T

Brake caliber - 2010 Chrysler town & country

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From gstst4 on Brake caliber - 2010 Chrysler town & country

I have a 2010 Chrysler town & country 3.8 with 62000 miles. I am having rear brake problems. I had humming at high speeds and smelling of burning brakes on the passenger side. Then as time passed it switched to the driver's side. Changed brake pads and passenger side rotor which had wear grooves. Everything seemed fine for about a month. Now the sound is back along with the smell back on the passenger's side. I've read that it could be the guide pins causing the sticking brakes, or could it be the caliber?

Response From jzr

Bad design. Chrysler physicists paid to figure out half life of engineering materials that are fed into stochastic algorithms in order to determine future maintenance revenues on vehicle repair. In other words promising Nordstrom on a 7-11 budget. Forget all the spilled milk discussions here. Get higher grade materials all around - Cross-Drilled and Slotted rotors, Ceramic pads, heavier duty calipers and your nightmare will be over. YOU have to re-engineer the solution. After review of all the "advice" (okay), it will never resolve your problem, which is actually based on figuring out what is going to break next because of "UNPREDICTABLE" results engineering from Chrysler. Correction, what is PREDICTABLE is that this engineering is calculated to fail in the short term. If you don't follow this advice you will constantly be trying to figure out "now what is wrong" with your brakes, besides trying to figure out why did I buy this engineered lemon.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

This thread is more than a year old. Closed to prevent spamming or hijacking.

Response From Hammer Time

Bad design. Chrysler physicists paid to figure out half life of engineering materials that are fed into stochastic algorithms in order to determine future maintenance revenues on vehicle repair.

Wow, we got a real genius on our hands here.

I hear Chrysler is looking to hire more physicists to design their cars. Maybe you should apply.

You might want to find out what a physicist is first though. Maybe you could invent Nuclear drive.

Response From Discretesignals

Could be caliper, seized guide pins, faulty brake hose, parking brake is on, and/or parking brake cables are seized causing something like that. Did you lubricate the slide pins when you had it apart?

Response From gstst4

I'll grease the guide pins first before I do anything and check everything over.

Response From Discretesignals

Make sure the pins slide back and forth when you remove the caliper. If they do, then remove them and put some brake grease on them.

Inspect the caliper parking brake arm on the caliper before you remove the caliper and make sure it is all the way released.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, lube with proper lube every time. Also - do something to one side do the same to the other. You said you just did passenger pads and rotor - not so good an idea and doesn't save anything in the long run,


T

Response From gstst4

No I did replace the padson both sides, but only replaced the rotor on the right side. Lubricated the guide pins. Mind you the smell of the brakes and hot wheel is not constant. It happens only at high speeds once in a while. Hopefully the grease will do the job. Any other suggestions welcome.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pins when lubed and good should just slide in your hands. What is harder to know if piston is intermittently sticking and about to freeze up or even flex hoses that can let pressure in but not out so that brake will drag if so.


Parking brake anything matters as well as I think this one uses a cam inside the caliper and is sprung to be off not applied and should retract to complete OFF. Wheels should spin free when hoisted with either rotor fastened or wheel back on. No drag.


If anytime you find one side of brake pads or shoes for drums worn more than the other side there's a problem to fix not just replace them pads and rotors even. Gotta find out why one was different - it's brakes - no games!


One thing that is real bad for brake caliper is if they get submersed in water for any reason. They really are NOT water tight and any moisture between dust boot/seal can easily corrode piston or caliper wall and ruin them but cute as that happens much later than right before they get dunked if so, not just road spray from driving in the rain for instance,


T

Response From gstst4

No I'm sure I didn't. I feel I should just replace the caliber. That parking brake is tricky to deal with. I think that's the hardest part replacing the caliber besides bleeding the brakes after.