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Showing 1 - 10 of 3,159 Products.

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Mopar
2001 Chrysler LHS Radiator Cap Mopar

P311-117F470    W0133-1668798  New

Qty:
$24.27
Mopar Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Chrysler LHS
Mopar
2001 Chrysler LHS Engine Coolant Reservoir Cap Mopar

P311-117F470    W0133-1668798  New

Qty:
$24.27
Mopar Engine Coolant Reservoir Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Chrysler LHS
Gates
1997 Chrysler LHS Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates

P311-4A0CAE6    W0133-1954186  New

Qty:
$35.82
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • OE Type
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Chrysler LHS
Gates
1997 Chrysler LHS Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates - (91°C/195°F)

P311-4A0CAE6    W0133-1954186  New

Qty:
$35.82
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • SuperStat
  • (91°C/195°F)
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Chrysler LHS
Anco
2001 Chrysler LHS Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Anco - 31-Series

P311-38CAFDE    31-22  New

DL-22 , 38-220 , 22-59 , 60-2387 , SBV221 , 22-54 , 4722 , 39-221 , WW-2201 , 60-022-9 , 23-51 , 22-1 , 359-230 , 8-122 , 22-51 , 60-022-4 , 500-22 , 22-4 , 40322 , 3722 , 8-422 , 30-221 , 39-230 , WCB22 , 350-221 , 60-023-1 , 40722A , 358-220 , 60-022-1 , WW-2204 , 22-9 , 23-1 , RX30122

Qty:
$6.00
Anco Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • ANCO Conventional 31 Series Wiper Blades 22
  • Original Blade Type
  • 31-Series
  • Product Attributes:
    • Blade Material: Duraklear - Natural Rubber
    • Blade Type: Conventional/bridge
    • Feature 1: Available In 10"-28" Lengths
    • Feature 2: Affordable Conventional Blade Replacement
    • Feature 3: Duraklear Exclusive Rubber Compound Provides A Consistent Streak-free Wipe
    • Feature 4: Vented Bridge And High Performance Polymer Ensure Oe Fit And Function
    • Feature 5: Kwikconnect Installation System Provides Quick And Easy Wiper Blade Replacement
    • Feature 6: Consistent, Clear Wipe In Any Driving Environment
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Length:
      • 22.000
      • 560.0
    • Wiper Blade Connection Type: J-hook: 9x3mm, 9x4mm; Classic Side-pin: 1/4"
  • The 31-Series KwikConnect wiper blade boasts reliable wiper performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Anco
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Chrysler LHS Front Right
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.79
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch UNF-2B Outside Diameter 3.7 Height 3.75"
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Chrysler LHS V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497
Premium Vision
2001 Chrysler LHS Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-1A9B8B1    PR-22  New

XV22

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 22
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Chrysler LHS Front Right
Premium Vision
2001 Chrysler LHS Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-1A9B8B1    PR-22  New

XV22

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 22
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Chrysler LHS Front Right
Gates
1997 Chrysler LHS Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates - (91°C/195°F)

P311-4A0CAE6    W0133-1954186  New

Qty:
$35.82
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • OE Type
  • 195° F (OE Temp)
  • (91°C/195°F)
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Chrysler LHS
Husky Liners
1996 Chrysler LHS Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Chrysler LHS Rear

Showing 1 - 10 of 3,159 Products.


Latest Chrysler Lhs Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 Chrysler LHS "spewing" coolant from the reservoir

Showing 4 out of 9 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Starion on 1999 Chrysler LHS "spewing" coolant from the reservoir

Year: 1999
Make: Chrysler
Model: LHS
Engine Size: 3.5-liter V-6
Miles: 179k

Hi! Basically my problem is thus: The coolant reservoir (I think it's called, from various Google searches that term seems to pop up the most) was "spewing", like a tea kettle going off, coolant. It was idling at the time, and had been doing so for about 5 minutes (was just making a quick stop at home to grab some supplies then head to work), after having been driven on the highway (65-70mph speeds) for about 2 hours.

There is a hole in the tank (where it was spitting from), but it appears to be a very "intentional" hole, i.e., it's not a puncture or a worn spot. Cell Phone Picture of the hole.

The major possible lead up is, well, that I hit a deer last week. The damage, though, had appeared mostly cosmetic (Overall Picture of the Damage). The speeds were high (around 65mph, on the highway) but we both turned in opposite directions and it was more of a glancing blow.

For now, the only thing I've done is let it cool off, then start it up again. Everything seems to be running okay. I ran the AC to max and let it sit for about 10 minutes; the dashboard temps went up slightly, but still below the "half-way" point on the gauge. If nothing else, I assume I need to replace the lost coolant, but if I don't know what caused the problem, it is of course just going to happen again.

EDIT: Also, I checked the spilled coolant and the oil; the oil is still black and the coolant appeared relatively clear/white. I don't know if it's important, but it was one of the things my initial Google wanderings brought up.

If anyone has any insight or suggestions, I would truly appreciate it. Thank you!

-Starion

Response From Sidom

The coolant needs to be topped off and then going off the symptoms I would run the engine at idle and make sure the cooling fans are coming on without the assist of the a/c system.

You may need a new reservior, I don't recall any vents where your picture shows and that reservoir is part of the pressurized system unlike some reservoirs that are just overflow tanks.....

Just have to add this but you do realize that the color of oil shouldn't be black but more of a clear light brown to golden color?

Response From Starion


Response From Sidom

Response From Starion

Ack, sorry! I had a nice reply typed out, but when I hit post the only thing that posted was me quoting you. It looked silly, and I couldn't find a delete post button anywhere. So I did that until I could get back to the computer.

Okay, so, I've topped off the coolant, and let the engine idle for about ten minutes with the AC off. Silly question though...what am I looking for with regards to the "Cooling fans"? I know of one fan, that sits between the grill and the radiator, but that's about all I'm aware of (go super car knowledge). That fan wasn't spinning, though I don't know what temperature the engine has to get to before it spins up (ambient temperature, aka the outside temperature, was 55F, and at night, for what it's worth). I even drove it down to the corner gas station for a fill up; no spewing precious fluids, but when I got back the fan still wasn't spinning up.

I'm even more worried about that reservoir now, with it's inexplicable hole. It really looks like it's meant to be there, but also as you said, it doesn't appear to be just an overflow tank, so I don't know how it could maintain pressure. Could it have been plugged with something before?

As for the oil, yea. I completely misspoke, I really should have said "The oil looked like oil". It was changed last week, I would hope that it hadn't turned tar black already.

Response From Sidom

Well it helps to have a scanner to be able to see the temp the computer sees but isn't totally necessary. Basically most cars fans will come on when the coolant temp reaches around 225°.

What you are looking for is the fan to come on by itself at that temp. If you turn the a/c on, this can cause the fans to turn on, you want to be sure the engine temp is turning the fans on not the a/c...

So you start it up and just let it sit and run, keeping an eye on your temp gauge. I would let it get all the way up to 3/4s before shutting the engine off due to no fans. You can't drive it because now you are getting cool air flow thru the rad so it may not need the fans...

Sitting there running, with no a/c the fans should come on when the temp gauge is somewhere around 1/2, let it go all the way to 3/4, if there is still no fans, then this is the 1st problem that needs to be solved.....

Response From Starion

Aaaaannnnddd there's the first problem. Took about 45 minutes of idling, but yea, the radiator fan never kicked on. I start watching it past the 1/2 mark, and eventually shut down at the 3/4 like you said.

So more questions!

I'm not particularly car savvy at all, but I do build/repair computers for fun, including fan installs. Any chance of that experience generalizing over to here? You pretty much just plug the fan into a 4-pin molex connector (for most case fans, anyway) and screw it in. How much crazier will a radiator fan be? Could I buy the parts from a local shop (Pep Boys, etc), or is it pretty model specific? Could the problem be more systemic?

In the mean time, temps over the next 4 days aren't supposed to get above 65F, could the car manage without the fan for that long until I get to work on it on a day off (Thursday afternoon)? I suspect it could, since presumably it has for the last week (when I clipped the deer), but I'm not sure what "wear and tear" might be like by doing so. My driving is almost all highway, about 250 miles/day (with about 15 minutes in city).

I'm still not sure what the rapid expulsion of the fluids was about, I guess if that happens again with temps in the normal range (I was kind of freaked out, I regret not checking the temp gauge before I shut the car down), I'm in trouble.

Well, thanks for you're help!

Response From Sidom

Personally before I'd started chasing this problem down I would want to look at a data stream and verify for sure the temp is going up past 210° and the fans aren't coming on....... I've seen dash gauges get skewed before where they go up past 3/4 before the fans come on but the temp is range. If the temp is in range then you don't want to be taking the temp up that high..

If I remember you said the fans came on with the a/c so that would mean the fans are good. There is a couple of relays in the box under the hood for high & low speeds that comp ground when there are needed, you could try swapping them with similar relays in the box and see if that makes the fans come on....

The engine really needs the fans while sitting still. While driving you get air flow which is usually enough for cooling but it's risky driving with no fans and you would really need to keep an eye on the temp......

I rolled the dice once in a 115° heat when a cooling fan module went out. I had to go 70 miles on a busy CA freeway to avoid a tow bill (this was all while I was getting screamed at cuz of course the module failing was my fault )..... I knew if I hit traffic I was screwed.. I got lucky & made it but knew the risk I was running...

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This is a 2 speed fan system low speed kicks at 216 and high speed at 230 so it's always possible that it's missing low speed only.

1997 Chrysler LHS

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jenniknoke on 1997 Chrysler LHS

I have a 1997 Chrysler LHS with the "check engine" light on at all times. My car runs good except it will spit and spudder like it needs air, not all the time, usually when I hit speeds between 40 to 60 mph, but never looses RPM's. I have checked the spark plugs, they are fine, and all filters and fluids. What am I missing? The car has a 3.5 liter engine with 168,000 miles.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Get the codes pulled for the check engine light & post back. That could help narrow down where the problem area is.

1996 Chrysler LHS Battery/Alternator

Showing 5 out of 10 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From beloved.monster on 1996 Chrysler LHS Battery/Alternator

I have recently replaced my alternator on my 1996 Chrysler LHS. I was expecting to have to replace that either way. And I know that alternators drain the battery. When I was finished replacing the alternator I went to AutoZone and got the battery charged up. They said it was a good battery and fully charged. When I got it back into the car however the car still said battery was low.

I have heard that alternaters can be bad even if they are brand new ....


I was wondering if it could be anything else like the wires for the battery or something?

I dont know much about cars...Im a 23 year old female who is just learning about cars...it is only my 2nd car!

Response From nickwarner

Well I commend you for not only taking a proactive approach to your car but asking questions about what you don't know. The very first thing that should be looked at in any sort of electrical problem are the quality of your power and ground connections. They need to be shiny and tight. A battery post cleaner can be had for a few bucks at any parts store. After getting your posts clean, be sure to coat liberally around it with dielectric grease. This seals the contacts from moisture and battery gasses that cause corrosion. Also, your wires must hook elsewhere from the battery. Ground goes to the engine block, and power goes to the starter and to the main fuse/relay center. These must be cleaned up as well. No matter how good your battery and alternator are, having bad connections is akin to kinking over a garden hose. All you get out of the end is a trickle. One thing I have learned is not to always trust a factory gauge unless you verify its accuracy. Put a multimeter on the battery to see actual voltage and see if it matches the dash reading. If you suspect your alternator is bad, which can happen occasionally, have the parts store test it. They will have to do this for warranty anyhow if its a bad part. Let us know what you find or if you have any more questions we can help with.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hope this isn't what I'm afraid of - the voltage regulation (voltage regulator) is mounted on an inner fender shield and controlled by the car's PCM which isn't serviceable on it's own and would need replacement - arggh. Hope not.

Haven't run into that but this if the problem and too pricey and the only thing effected by a failure of PCM can have an external regulator put on it which is custom 'hackery' if you will. Get that new alternator tested and if it tests good you may want to seek some help to be sure what is really wrong before it gets too pricey. All this still requires the connections Nick mentioned being known good as well,

T

Response From Batspid3000

I am attempting to help my sister with her 1996 Chrysler LHS 6cyl. Could anyone tell me where the PCM/ECM is located on this vehicle? Also, I noticed in this post that someone mentioned the voltage regulator was on an inside fender. Is this correct?
Thanks for your time and talents.
Gary

Response From Hammer Time

FORUM RULES

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This thread is over 3+1/2 years old. Read forum rules and don't post on someone else's please with your car on their issue. Thread locked so please start your own,

T

Response From khalel

are you experiencing any other problem aside from the warning sign things like you can't start your car or your headlight won't turn on? because it is possible that your battery meter is the problem too in order for you to know that there really is a problem with the alternator is if there are other signs, or you could let it check the charging power of the alternator if it discharges the battery or not.







Remove the links from your signature..........not allowed

Response From beloved.monster

Thank you for all your help. The problem kinda turned out to be funny. The person who installed my alternater didn't plug it in all the way.


I was like..."Are you serious?!"

But it runs well now and the battery light went off as soon as it was plugged in all the way.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

WOW! Today is your day - BUY A LOTTERY TICKET!

T

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

WOW! Today is your day - BUY A LOTTERY TICKET!

I don't know if I would consider getting a half assed mechanic as being "good luck". It should never have happened.

1997 Chrysler LHS humming noise

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dbrazelton on 1997 Chrysler LHS humming noise

I have a chrysler LHS 1997 4 dr 6 cyl. Yesterday while driving a humming niose started. It most noticeable when the steering column is turned in either direction. it can also be slightly heard when you press the gas. When the car is started and just idling you don't hear it. it cna be heard as i said earlier when you press on the gas. it jsut more pronouced when you trun the steering column. there is approximately 130k miles on the car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Check power steering fluid level and consider changing it. Lots of heat can turn it sticky or leaks happen too. If low, find the leak,

T

My car dies

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From thanos35 on My car dies

Engine Mechanical problem
1999 Chrysler LHS 6 cyl Automatic

While driving, my car will die for no apparent reason. It doesnt sputter or anything, it just shuts down. Then it takes forever to start, but when it does start, it acts like nothings wrong. Could it be the fuel pump? If so, how would I go about checking that?


(just removed hyperlinks)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You need to take a fuel pressure test while it's down. That or have starting fluid to see if when it's very fussy will snap it to instantly if only for a test would be good info,

T

Response From thanos35 Top Rated Answer

I will try that. Thanks

Response From nickwarner

If the fuel pressure test is good, watch your tach while cranking and not starting. If it doesn't move you are looking at a bad crank sensor.