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chrysler 300 Parts

Showing 1 - 10 of 10,759 Products.

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Mopar
2013 Chrysler 300 Radiator Cap 8 Cyl 5.7L Mopar

P311-117F470    W0133-1668798  New

Qty:
$24.27
Mopar Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Chrysler 300 C V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 5654
Mopar
2014 Chrysler 300 Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 3.6L Mopar

P311-117F470    W0133-1668798  New

Qty:
$24.27
Mopar Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Location-Expansion Tank
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Chrysler 300 V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Mopar
2018 Chrysler 300 Radiator Cap Mopar

P311-117F470    W0133-1668798  New

Qty:
$24.27
Mopar Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Location-Reservoir
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Chrysler 300
Mopar
2013 Chrysler 300 ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Mopar

P311-41D98FF    W0133-2106954  New

Qty:
$24.65
Mopar ABS Wheel Speed Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Wire Harness
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type
2013 - Chrysler 300 Touring RWD
Mopar
2013 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Mopar

P311-4175E2A    W0133-2041174  New

Qty:
$160.05
Mopar Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Tension Link
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2013 - Chrysler 300 SRT8 Core
Mopar
2018 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Mopar

P311-4175E2A    W0133-2041174  New

Qty:
$160.05
Mopar Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2018 - Chrysler 300 C
Mopar
2014 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Mopar

P311-4175E2A    W0133-2041174  New

Qty:
$160.05
Mopar Suspension Control Arm
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • w/o High Performance Suspension
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type
2014 - Chrysler 300 C Luxury RWD
Mopar
2018 Chrysler 300 Suspension Control Arm Link Mopar

P311-4175E2A    W0133-2041174  New

Qty:
$160.05
Mopar Suspension Control Arm Link
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type
2018 - Chrysler 300 S RWD
Monroe
2008 Chrysler 300 Trunk Lid Lift Support Monroe - Monroe Max-Lift Lift Support

P311-457ACD2    901508  New

Qty:
$20.66
Monroe Trunk Lid Lift Support
  • Monroe Max-Lift Lift Support
  • Product Attributes:
    • Accesorio(s): None
    • Compressed Length: 7.520
    • Extended Length: 11.654
    • Force: 63.000
    • Fuerza: 63.000
    • Longitud Extendida: 11.654
    • Lower Mounting Code: E
    • Max Year Covered: 2008
    • Min Year Covered: 2005
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chrysler 300
    • Most Popular Year: 2006
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Tipo de Montura Inferior: E
    • Tipo de Montura Superior: E
    • Total Part VIO: 506036
    • Travel Length: 4.134
    • Upper Mounting Code: E
    • Viaje: 4.134
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Chrysler 300
Spectre
Qty:
$36.08
Spectre Automatic Transmission Oil Pan
  • OEM Style; Chrome Plated Steel; Stock Capacity
  • Transmission Pan
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Grade: High Performance
    • Finish: Chrome
    • Gasket Or Seal Included: No
    • Item Weight: 3.300 Lbs. (1.5 Kg)
    • Material: Steel
    • Package Contents: 1 Transmission Pan, 1 Drain Plug, 1 Drain Plug Washer
    • Package Material: Paperboard
    • Package Type: Box
    • Prop 65 (C, R or CR): Cr
    • Prop 65 Warning Label: Https://www.knfilters.com/images/l/prop65.jpg
    • Title: Spectre Spe-5457 Transmission Pan
    • Trans Model: Chrysler- Torqueflite A727 (auto) 3 Speed
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • The Spectre Transmission Pan TF727 was designed to fit Chrysler 727 Torqueflite transmissions. This standard capacity transmission pan features triple chrome-plated steel, fins for added cooling, and includes a drain plug. This product is easy to install with no special tools or skills required.
Brand: Spectre
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Manuf. Code Block Engine CID CC
1962 - Chrysler 300 Base A727 V 8 Cyl 6.3L 383 6286

Showing 1 - 10 of 10,759 Products.


Latest Chrysler 300 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 Chrysler 300m: Replaced starter, now it won't engage.

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From snickingaround on 1999 Chrysler 300m: Replaced starter, now it won't engage.

I replaced the starter on my 1999 Chrysler 300m after being advised that contacts were corroded, it had been starting intermittently. Now when I try to start it I can hear the bendix spinning just fine but it won't engage the flywheel. Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Sounds like a bad starter to me.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Im not an EXPERT or anything but did u buy the starter new or used have u tryed tapping the starter while the car was being started?
If it is used the teeth on the gear that connects to the flywheel maybe worn out may also be the flywheel is worn out
Is it possible that when starter was replaced the gear didn't connects fully to thr flywheel or possibly put back on the old starter(this is quite commen believe it or not eveybody has done it Atleast once)

Response From nickwarner

Our ICP fan here raises a decent point. You could have a dud starter, which you could tell by pulling it out and bench testing it to see if it engages the gear outward, or you may have stripped some teeth on the flexplate and have a bad spot. Try this, when the engine will not turn over but you can hear the starter motor turning, get out and bar the engine over 1/4 turn or so with a breaker bar and socket. Then try the starter again. If it now engages, you know you have a bad spot on the ring gear of the flexplate.

1969 Chrysler 300

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Mighty300 on 1969 Chrysler 300

my engine turns over and runs but only if i hold the key in the right place. i think its the ignition switch. i need confirmation or correction.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The ignition system starts on 12 volts and runs on 8 volts. There is a white porcelain resister mounted on the firewall. When that burns out, it will run when the key is in the start position but not the run position.

Response From Mighty300

thank you that was the problem exactly

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome. Back in the 60s and 70s, I used to carry one of those in the glove box because it was so common

Response From Mighty300

Thank you, i will check that out as soon its light out

2005 Chrysler 300 making arubbing sound from passenger side front

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From mpops618 on 2005 Chrysler 300 making arubbing sound from passenger side front

When driving my car makes a rubbing sound like the tire is rubbing against the mud flaps but are not

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Brakes can do that and less so wheel bearings which much more often growl on turns at first. Make sure inner fender splash shield is tightly in place by hand. It isn't that strong and could actually be rubbing at some speed?


T

Response From mpops618 Top Rated Answer

Splash shields are secure. It starts making that sound at 20 mph

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Could be a little bit of a hunt for the noise. Try taking that wheel off, look at brake for anything obvious up to take caliper off and check the splash shield for the brake which can rub if too close.
Better yet since it seems one side look at both front brakes for wear - they should match.
Does this noise happen more or less while shifting weight with turns? If so that suggest a wheel bearing. Trouble is at first you won't feel anything wrong with it on the car or just spinning wheel and feeling for free-play. They don't get free play till the problem is so bad the wheel could fall off and no question what the problem is then but you can't wait for that - too dangerous.
CV joints and 1/2 shafts almost always behave even if bad when driving straight ahead so doubt that right now. Those usually crackle or crunchy sounds or feel on sharp turns from a stop even and accelerating. Boot should be looked at and if torn they will fail but don't think it's the problem at hand right now.


Wheel(s) off would now be my first move and brake check including the splash plate for BRAKE not the wheel in general,


T

chrysler 300 base modelignition switch

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mikeyberry83 on chrysler 300 base modelignition switch

my ignition seems to be stuck in accessory mode but still turns when you insert the key, but it does not click into lock or start, what could cause this? when i take the key out it still acts as if its stuck in accessory.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Year and engine size?

1999 Chrysler 300m

Showing 3 out of 42 Posts | Show 39 Hidden Posts
Question From dmelvin on 1999 Chrysler 300m

Car has been running great until one morning I go to start it, it turns over and everything but the power windows and a/c & heater won't work. 15 minutes later, they simultaneously decide to start working. This has been the case for the past few months. IS NOT the alternator, what could it be? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

-Daniel

Response From GC

Im confused by the description.
"everything but the power windows and a/c & heater won't work"
Only the power windows and heater work? Or the power windows and heater wont work?

Response From dmelvin

My apologies, I meant that as a figure of speech and now relies the dilemma it creates in the wording. What I mean was that everything works except the power windows and a/c & heater.

Response From kev2

First thought is ign switch.... as both circuits are energized in start or run...

Suspect - Is the CEL on or do you have a remote starter ?

Response From dmelvin

Surprisingly the CEL is not on although when I call for power on the power windows or a/c the dash defaults and the trac on/off lights up as well as the abs. Another thing to note, the lights illuminating the window function tabs dim whenever you call for power on the windows as well (for the first 15 or so minutes before they actually start to work).

Response From Hammer Time

Anything recently worked on or damaged on this car?

Response From dmelvin

The obvious indicator would be that I had to jump start the car since it died in -16 degree weather other than that, nope

Response From GC

I would lean towards ignition switch as well. (NOT THE LOCK CYLINDER) There are several other circuits that I would think would be affected if the ignition switch is the problem. Does the transmission act any different when this is occurring? Does the airbag light and/or ABS light come on when this is occurring? Is the check engine light on?

Sorry missed that you mentioned some of those things.

Response From dmelvin

Wiggling the key? It's a reoccurring problem and it doesn't involve starting the car. I'm thinking has something either to do with a bad ground (which I cleaned the main one), a bad relay, or bad cables???

Response From Hammer Time

If you think you know more than the professionals trying to help you, why are you here?

Response From dmelvin

I definitely don't and appreciate any advice given. I just immediately thought your advice to wiggle the key indicated you didn't fully understand the problem. I can assure you that wiggling the key has not done anything to fix the problem, thank you for the tip though.

Response From Hammer Time

Wiggling the key itself isn't going to do much. You have to access the plug on the back of the switch. Don't blow this off because I had a Chrysler product the other day that cranked just fine but sometimes wouldn't start and when it wouldn't start the dash lights weren't powering and it turned out to be a switch that used multiple power feeds.

Response From dmelvin

The thing is Hammer Time, the Chrysler turns over flawlessly every time. It takes only a few cranks and turns over, so as far as that goes it's reliable. Could it still be what you are suggesting?

Response From Hammer Time

We wouldn't have suggested it if it couldn't.

Response From dmelvin

Hammer Time can you please explain how this could potentially be the issue? My dash lights do light up, and my car turns over fine and hence why I am confused but then again like you said I'm no professional. I appreciate your help.

Response From kev2

Lets regroup.
the P/W and HVAC do not always get powered up at start.....

You recently had to jump the vehicle - dead battery - no problem before that.... Am I describing correctly so far?


> I asked about a remote starter ? before someone looks at a wiring diagram....
> I want to also ask - the CEL does it come on at every start @2seconds then go out?
> Jump started the car- no problem, crossed cables - key was in pocket or ignition Sw when attaching cables?
> Any chance you have a scanner - all code capable?
Stupid questions.... but there is a reason

Response From dmelvin

Good plan!
You have everything correct. I don't have a remote starter and the CEL doesn't come on at all actually. When we attached the cables the key was in my hand and the last of your questions; I do have a scanner all codes capable and ran it and there was no fault code. I was hoping there would be, but assumed there wouldn't because of the CEL not being displayed.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? CEL bulb doesn't light even as a bulb check?

T

Response From dmelvin

No CEL bulb is functioning fine. There is nothing wrong with the CEL. I apologize if that was causing any confusion.

Response From kev2

.....I am still thinking it is a key switch issue, I will look at a wiring diagram to be sure I did not miss anything ie everything going thru BCM or a relay...

Will think of a way to troubleshoot and confirm, some tests -

Response From dmelvin

Hmmmmm...I took it to Shucks and had them run an unloaded and loaded test. Seems to be that the battery is fine but is being drained excessively. I cleaned the main ground but would the key switch also cause this problem? I don't believe it is the alternator as I had that tested too and it was running about 14v (barely okay they said). Another possibility I've been researching is a bad BCM which I'm hoping is not the case. What are your thoughts??

Response From kev2

the battery drain is interesting- definitely look into thet... remember that there is a wait period for checking battery drains as modules go to sleep @30min would be a safe guess. Good tutorials on this drain checking procedure on UTube.

I mentioned the BCM as I am unsure if circuits utilize it, I will look at wiring schematic - time permitting - its snowing, not making for a busy evening.

PS as the issue is intermittent testing will be trickier than a hard failure.

Response From dmelvin

So I gave autozone a call and discussed it for a little bit and if it were to be the ignition switch, typically, the power windows and a/c/heater wouldn't start working consistently after 15 minutes. She suggested checking starting with the relays? What do you think about her idea?

Response From Hammer Time

You need to learn one thing right now.

The people at Autozone are part time part counter sales people with no technical training.

The people on this site are mostly ASE certified technicians, mostly master techs.

If you continue to ignore the people here and listen to the counter monkeys at Autozone, you are going to end up totally buried in a mess and probably do some damage to your car.

Response From dmelvin

Hammer Time, other people are giving me good insight and all you are providing is criticism. I'm open to all sources of information and finding out the validity of that information is something I'm going to have to discern. You can either provide me information like the other people who have posted on this forum have kindly offered or you can take your negative comments else where. I reiterate, I am open to information from any source, and anyone who has provided me with viable information on here I sincerely thank and take into careful consideration. So as far as "continuing to ignore the people here" goes, I'm not. I'm being resourceful. So please, go somewhere else if you aren't going to help me. Thank you.

Response From Hammer Time

Tread carefully mister or you and all your help will be gone. Consider yourself lucky that one tech is still willing to deal with this nonsense.

Response From dmelvin

Hammer Time, I pretty confident, that unlike you, people on here are willing to help me rather than criticize me and think I'm ignorant. You have one thing right, I don't know a lot about cars. But the thing you have wrong is that I'm not going to research and question advice given. Asking for explanation provides insight, which is my primary goal here. I don't want to take my car to a mechanic, which I easily could, because I want to know how to fix it on my own. I'm not going to tread carefully because I do sincerely and honestly appreciate advice, not criticism or idle threats. So please, take your issues with me elsewhere so I can continue working on this problem in an insightful and effective matter. As for luck, I considered myself lucky to have even one reply to this post and grateful for such.

Response From GC

I didnt even look at how to disable the system before, but yes its disconnecting the battery and waiting AT LEAST 2 minutes for capacitors to discharge. But the concern is still there, as anytime you are getting into the steering column, especially into the wiring, you better know your stuff.

As HT said, disregard anything from people who sell parts. They may be great parts people, but they dont care if you test and find the problem or just buy parts and throw them at the problem. In fact, they prefer that. If they had proper service info and a good amount of skill, they would be a tech. But they have neither, so are only guessing, which doesnt work well with todays vehicles.

Response From kev2


I spent some time pulling up and looking at a wiring diagram, pretty much as was already posted by a colleague-
power constant from remote battery "JUMP POST*" to PDC fuse J 40amp - then to key switch that supplies power to several circuits infuse box- PW and the HVAC - your issues

here is where I think you can test easily....when a failure is present using a test light or DVOM... check fuse #s 23,17.9,8 for 12v by probing they should have 12v. 12v or not we can proceed from that finding

* might want to check connection tight corrosion free

Response From dmelvin

Kev2, thanks for your time looking that up for me. I'll go test the fuses asap for the 12V continuity. I'm trying to catch up with all the inflow of information so sorry for not getting back to your promptly.

Response From Hammer Time

Since you are still not listening to anything, this has to come to an end. You have just proven that you have a bad ignition switch which you were told of back in the beginning of this thread yet continued to waste everyone's time by listening to Autozone. This issue has been resolved and this thread has run it's course and I am closing it now.

Kev2, contact me if you need to add anything.

Response From GC

Your gonna have to dig into the column and get to the ignition switch that is attached to the end of the lock cylinder. This requires disabling the airbag system. I wouldnt recommend trying this yourself, unless you are familiar with these systems. You can easily junk your car if you do something wrong. You can try checking the voltage to fuse #23 and circuit breaker #1 in the junction box when this is happening and for good measure, check it again when its functioning properly. It may help point in the right direction, but wont let you condemn the ignition switch, as it would need to be tested right at the switch.

Response From dmelvin

Okay I just had an epiphany: I was just doing some tests on the car and I got this results; when I turned the key to the 2 position all the appliances would work but as soon as I would start the car the pw/ac/heater wouldn't. I'd turn the car off pull the keys out turn it to the 2 position (have to repeat this a couple of times to work) and then all the appliances would work again. They'd immediately stop if I turned on the car as suggested by the previous result. HENCE would this suggest and alternator issue as the alternator takes over for the power distribution after the car is started?!?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thread getting long so may be a repeat or confusing you:


Battery/alternator: Battery is there to start the car mostly as a reserve of power. Once running alternator will put back what was taken/lost from the battery quickly such that it really is and should remain at full charge while running, even running everything electrical in the vehicle. Battery cover sudden demands by split seconds and alternator will then cover that new load and battery is all happy again.


Essentially if there's isn't a wiring or other electrical problem the car would run just fine without an alternator at all (or working alternator) as long as the reserve capacity of the battery was adequate. Time limit to that situation.


Just the time when starter is cranking the ignition switch will disable quite a few functions to allow as much power to starter as possible then when you plain let go the typical ignition self returns to plain run mode enabling anything you wish. Seems there's a dead spot with that whether released to that spot or just put there without starting it's not doing what it should or you wouldn't be here asking.


That "dead" spot for an analogy is like a physical turning dimmer when going thru the range may find a dead spot that either stays dead or may take time to make the connection.


Whatever: This would lead me to the ignition switch itself and seems that's where this thread is at.


Note on parts outlets, any really: The common reason for being there is to sell parts - no surprise. The employees may or may not be trained mechanics at all. Some are real mechanics that for whatever reason can't or don't wish to plain do it any more but stay associated with the car biz.


Ultimately the customer chooses which parts are needed NOT the parts place! Techs and shops are customers of parts places also. In short, their job is to sell parts and YOUR job is to know which ones,
Tom

Response From GC Top Rated Answer

Im done

Response From Hammer Time

No, it wouldn't suggest that at all but it would suggest a bad ignition switch............. Oh, I forgot, the engineers at Autozone said that wasn't possible.

Response From kev2

Did I waste my time ......
a simple test was offered. to confirm a suspected ignition switch


PS your above logic is flawed.... circuits are same

Response From Hammer Time

Apparently

Response From dmelvin

Wouldn't disabling the air bag system just require detaching the negative battery cable from the post? I did the quick test to diagnose if it was the ignition switch by inserting my key into the 2 position, putting the car in neutral, turning the key to the start position, then letting it snap back to the 2 position. The result was the trac on and trac off indicator as well as the abs indicator beeping and flashing then turning off. Is this a partial confirmation? Again appreciate the help, I really want to know more about my car and be self reliant when it comes to these things.

Response From dmelvin

As far as the transmission having any problems it doesn't. When the lights default on the dash, the air bag indicator does comes on initially as well as the ABS. CEL is not on. It really is quite the mystery.

Response From GC

Wiggling the key is kinda far out on changing anything with this, but free and easy to try.

You mentioned that the abs and trac lights come on if you try using windows or heater. At this point I would suspect ignition switch, but everything is a guess without testing. Are you going to be testing and repairing this yourself?

Response From dmelvin

I thought so too as far as wiggling the key goes, and it definitely could have worked short term, but I am looking for a more long term solution. As a newly graduated college student I do plan on doing the repairs themselves. I've been at this for a month or so, thought it would be something like a bad battery, terminals or cables but it is abundantly apparent it is not. With regards to the ignition switch, would that explain why everything tends to work after about 15 minutes of running the car? I've heard theories of metal expansion (therefore more current flow) or the battery building up enough charge. Then again all the battery has to do is have enough charge to start the alternator and then it takes over right? Your help is sincerely appreciated.