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Husky Liners
1999 Chrysler 300M Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump May Require Trimming For Correct Fit/Trim Guides Molded In Mat
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Chrysler 300M Rear
Anco
2004 Chrysler 300M Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Anco - 31-Series

P311-38CAFDE    31-22  New

DL-22 , 38-220 , 22-59 , 60-2387 , SBV221 , 22-54 , 4722 , 39-221 , WW-2201 , 60-022-9 , 23-51 , 22-1 , 359-230 , 8-122 , 22-51 , 60-022-4 , 500-22 , 22-4 , 40322 , 3722 , 8-422 , 30-221 , 39-230 , WCB22 , 350-221 , 60-023-1 , 40722A , 358-220 , 60-022-1 , WW-2204 , 22-9 , 23-1 , RX30122

Qty:
$6.00
Anco Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • ANCO Conventional 31 Series Wiper Blades 22
  • Original Blade Type
  • 31-Series
  • Product Attributes:
    • Blade Material: Duraklear - Natural Rubber
    • Blade Type: Conventional/bridge
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Wiper Blade Connection Type: J-hook: 9x3mm, 9x4mm; Classic Side-pin: 1/4"
  • The 31-Series KwikConnect wiper blade boasts reliable wiper performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Anco
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Chrysler 300M Front Right
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$72.69
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Right
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.25" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.25" Id
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chrysler 300M Right V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497
Premium Guard
1998 Chrysler 300M Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.5L Premium Guard - Standard Life

P311-07D3651    PO4670  New

L10101 , L-325 , 51068 , GP16 , VO107 , PF13 , CO177 , 110200 , PPG4670 , SL14670 , WD-281 , OF4670 , 1614 , U8L , 542957 , M4670 , 85068 , S-285-CP , PZ-13 , 92068 , GL14670 , HP-2004 , FL-173 , OF-81 , ML16 , LS144A , MO228 , D400 , QS16 , SF-17 , 02 04 495 , S16 , LFP552518 , V4670 , 9128 , R1085 , 05281090 , 041-0605 , HL16 , LF107 , ASF42 , HL7226 , 61085 , 3549957 , QL14670 , 16 , PH16 , 15600-25010 , OF04 , M17 , CAS16 , 803470 , V927PL , X4670 , 7825516 , 3402 , 7048720 , CF107 , 1085 , 6432PER17 , TO16 , PLB16 , HSO-131 , PO-34 , 5281090BB , PH4670 , 2034 , M1-204 , FE292 , L11-1198 , L24S , F-16 , PN16 , C17 , 17-1726-0 , OF14670 , WS-16 , OF-16 , C-16 , 1068 , PH253 , PF1085 , LF-16 , SH35 , PG4670F , IOF16 , ML 1001 , 104 , D1001 , MO16 , B163 , EH258 , A-0201-005 , PGO-17 , AM31205 , PL-228 , PO4670 , PG4670 , 2151 , AL16 , 85044-A , PH232 , 650354 , 10-00017 , HF6096

Qty:
$3.79
  • Standard Life
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Burst Pressure: 218
    • Bypass Relief Valve Setting: 17
    • Filter Media Material: Enhanced Cellulose
    • Filter Type: Spin-on
    • Gasket Inside Diameter: 2.42 In
    • Gasket Outside Diameter: 2.81 In
    • Gasket Thickness: 0.20 In
    • Gasket Type: Nbr
    • Height: 3.66 In
    • Inside Thread Size: 3/4"-16unf
    • Micron Rating: 25
    • Outer Diameter Bottom: 3.66 In
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Chrysler 300M V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3518
Premium Vision
2004 Chrysler 300M Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-1A9B8B1    PR-22  New

XV22

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 22
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Chrysler 300M Front Right
Premium Vision
2004 Chrysler 300M Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-0480C5B    PR-24  New

XV24

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 24
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Chrysler 300M Front Left
Premium Vision
1999 Chrysler 300M Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-1A9B8B1    PR-22  New

XV22

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 22
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Chrysler 300M Front Right
Premium Vision
2002 Chrysler 300M Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-0480C5B    PR-24  New

XV24

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 24
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Chrysler 300M Front Left
Husky Liners
2003 Chrysler 300M Floor Mat Set - Front Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-1AE7D3A    51051  New

Qty:
$70.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Front
  • Front Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 piece
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Front
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Chrysler 300M Front
Mahle
2004 Chrysler 300M Fuel Injection Plenum Gasket Mahle

P311-0110EC6    W0133-1668913  New

Qty:
$27.21
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2004 - Chrysler 300M Base

Showing 1 - 10 of 2,399 Products.


Latest Chrysler 300m Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 Chrysler 300m: Replaced starter, now it won't engage.

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From snickingaround on 1999 Chrysler 300m: Replaced starter, now it won't engage.

I replaced the starter on my 1999 Chrysler 300m after being advised that contacts were corroded, it had been starting intermittently. Now when I try to start it I can hear the bendix spinning just fine but it won't engage the flywheel. Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like a bad starter to me.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO Top Rated Answer

Im not an EXPERT or anything but did u buy the starter new or used have u tryed tapping the starter while the car was being started?
If it is used the teeth on the gear that connects to the flywheel maybe worn out may also be the flywheel is worn out
Is it possible that when starter was replaced the gear didn't connects fully to thr flywheel or possibly put back on the old starter(this is quite commen believe it or not eveybody has done it Atleast once)

Response From nickwarner

Our ICP fan here raises a decent point. You could have a dud starter, which you could tell by pulling it out and bench testing it to see if it engages the gear outward, or you may have stripped some teeth on the flexplate and have a bad spot. Try this, when the engine will not turn over but you can hear the starter motor turning, get out and bar the engine over 1/4 turn or so with a breaker bar and socket. Then try the starter again. If it now engages, you know you have a bad spot on the ring gear of the flexplate.

1999 Chrysler 300m

Showing 6 out of 42 Posts | Show 36 Hidden Posts
Question From dmelvin on 1999 Chrysler 300m

Car has been running great until one morning I go to start it, it turns over and everything but the power windows and a/c & heater won't work. 15 minutes later, they simultaneously decide to start working. This has been the case for the past few months. IS NOT the alternator, what could it be? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

-Daniel

Response From GC

Im confused by the description.
"everything but the power windows and a/c & heater won't work"
Only the power windows and heater work? Or the power windows and heater wont work?

Response From dmelvin

My apologies, I meant that as a figure of speech and now relies the dilemma it creates in the wording. What I mean was that everything works except the power windows and a/c & heater.

Response From kev2

First thought is ign switch.... as both circuits are energized in start or run...

Suspect - Is the CEL on or do you have a remote starter ?

Response From dmelvin

Surprisingly the CEL is not on although when I call for power on the power windows or a/c the dash defaults and the trac on/off lights up as well as the abs. Another thing to note, the lights illuminating the window function tabs dim whenever you call for power on the windows as well (for the first 15 or so minutes before they actually start to work).

Response From Hammer Time

Anything recently worked on or damaged on this car?

Response From dmelvin

The obvious indicator would be that I had to jump start the car since it died in -16 degree weather other than that, nope

Response From GC

I would lean towards ignition switch as well. (NOT THE LOCK CYLINDER) There are several other circuits that I would think would be affected if the ignition switch is the problem. Does the transmission act any different when this is occurring? Does the airbag light and/or ABS light come on when this is occurring? Is the check engine light on?

Sorry missed that you mentioned some of those things.

Response From dmelvin

Wiggling the key? It's a reoccurring problem and it doesn't involve starting the car. I'm thinking has something either to do with a bad ground (which I cleaned the main one), a bad relay, or bad cables???

Response From Hammer Time

If you think you know more than the professionals trying to help you, why are you here?

Response From dmelvin

I definitely don't and appreciate any advice given. I just immediately thought your advice to wiggle the key indicated you didn't fully understand the problem. I can assure you that wiggling the key has not done anything to fix the problem, thank you for the tip though.

Response From Hammer Time

Wiggling the key itself isn't going to do much. You have to access the plug on the back of the switch. Don't blow this off because I had a Chrysler product the other day that cranked just fine but sometimes wouldn't start and when it wouldn't start the dash lights weren't powering and it turned out to be a switch that used multiple power feeds.

Response From dmelvin

The thing is Hammer Time, the Chrysler turns over flawlessly every time. It takes only a few cranks and turns over, so as far as that goes it's reliable. Could it still be what you are suggesting?

Response From Hammer Time

We wouldn't have suggested it if it couldn't.

Response From dmelvin

Hammer Time can you please explain how this could potentially be the issue? My dash lights do light up, and my car turns over fine and hence why I am confused but then again like you said I'm no professional. I appreciate your help.

Response From kev2

Lets regroup.
the P/W and HVAC do not always get powered up at start.....

You recently had to jump the vehicle - dead battery - no problem before that.... Am I describing correctly so far?


> I asked about a remote starter ? before someone looks at a wiring diagram....
> I want to also ask - the CEL does it come on at every start @2seconds then go out?
> Jump started the car- no problem, crossed cables - key was in pocket or ignition Sw when attaching cables?
> Any chance you have a scanner - all code capable?
Stupid questions.... but there is a reason

Response From dmelvin

Good plan!
You have everything correct. I don't have a remote starter and the CEL doesn't come on at all actually. When we attached the cables the key was in my hand and the last of your questions; I do have a scanner all codes capable and ran it and there was no fault code. I was hoping there would be, but assumed there wouldn't because of the CEL not being displayed.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? CEL bulb doesn't light even as a bulb check?

T

Response From dmelvin

No CEL bulb is functioning fine. There is nothing wrong with the CEL. I apologize if that was causing any confusion.

Response From kev2

.....I am still thinking it is a key switch issue, I will look at a wiring diagram to be sure I did not miss anything ie everything going thru BCM or a relay...

Will think of a way to troubleshoot and confirm, some tests -

Response From dmelvin

Hmmmmm...I took it to Shucks and had them run an unloaded and loaded test. Seems to be that the battery is fine but is being drained excessively. I cleaned the main ground but would the key switch also cause this problem? I don't believe it is the alternator as I had that tested too and it was running about 14v (barely okay they said). Another possibility I've been researching is a bad BCM which I'm hoping is not the case. What are your thoughts??

Response From kev2

the battery drain is interesting- definitely look into thet... remember that there is a wait period for checking battery drains as modules go to sleep @30min would be a safe guess. Good tutorials on this drain checking procedure on UTube.

I mentioned the BCM as I am unsure if circuits utilize it, I will look at wiring schematic - time permitting - its snowing, not making for a busy evening.

PS as the issue is intermittent testing will be trickier than a hard failure.

Response From dmelvin

So I gave autozone a call and discussed it for a little bit and if it were to be the ignition switch, typically, the power windows and a/c/heater wouldn't start working consistently after 15 minutes. She suggested checking starting with the relays? What do you think about her idea?

Response From Hammer Time

You need to learn one thing right now.

The people at Autozone are part time part counter sales people with no technical training.

The people on this site are mostly ASE certified technicians, mostly master techs.

If you continue to ignore the people here and listen to the counter monkeys at Autozone, you are going to end up totally buried in a mess and probably do some damage to your car.

Response From dmelvin

Hammer Time, other people are giving me good insight and all you are providing is criticism. I'm open to all sources of information and finding out the validity of that information is something I'm going to have to discern. You can either provide me information like the other people who have posted on this forum have kindly offered or you can take your negative comments else where. I reiterate, I am open to information from any source, and anyone who has provided me with viable information on here I sincerely thank and take into careful consideration. So as far as "continuing to ignore the people here" goes, I'm not. I'm being resourceful. So please, go somewhere else if you aren't going to help me. Thank you.

Response From Hammer Time

Tread carefully mister or you and all your help will be gone. Consider yourself lucky that one tech is still willing to deal with this nonsense.

Response From dmelvin

Hammer Time, I pretty confident, that unlike you, people on here are willing to help me rather than criticize me and think I'm ignorant. You have one thing right, I don't know a lot about cars. But the thing you have wrong is that I'm not going to research and question advice given. Asking for explanation provides insight, which is my primary goal here. I don't want to take my car to a mechanic, which I easily could, because I want to know how to fix it on my own. I'm not going to tread carefully because I do sincerely and honestly appreciate advice, not criticism or idle threats. So please, take your issues with me elsewhere so I can continue working on this problem in an insightful and effective matter. As for luck, I considered myself lucky to have even one reply to this post and grateful for such.

Response From GC

I didnt even look at how to disable the system before, but yes its disconnecting the battery and waiting AT LEAST 2 minutes for capacitors to discharge. But the concern is still there, as anytime you are getting into the steering column, especially into the wiring, you better know your stuff.

As HT said, disregard anything from people who sell parts. They may be great parts people, but they dont care if you test and find the problem or just buy parts and throw them at the problem. In fact, they prefer that. If they had proper service info and a good amount of skill, they would be a tech. But they have neither, so are only guessing, which doesnt work well with todays vehicles.

Response From kev2


I spent some time pulling up and looking at a wiring diagram, pretty much as was already posted by a colleague-
power constant from remote battery "JUMP POST*" to PDC fuse J 40amp - then to key switch that supplies power to several circuits infuse box- PW and the HVAC - your issues

here is where I think you can test easily....when a failure is present using a test light or DVOM... check fuse #s 23,17.9,8 for 12v by probing they should have 12v. 12v or not we can proceed from that finding

* might want to check connection tight corrosion free

Response From dmelvin

Kev2, thanks for your time looking that up for me. I'll go test the fuses asap for the 12V continuity. I'm trying to catch up with all the inflow of information so sorry for not getting back to your promptly.

Response From Hammer Time

Since you are still not listening to anything, this has to come to an end. You have just proven that you have a bad ignition switch which you were told of back in the beginning of this thread yet continued to waste everyone's time by listening to Autozone. This issue has been resolved and this thread has run it's course and I am closing it now.

Kev2, contact me if you need to add anything.

Response From GC

Your gonna have to dig into the column and get to the ignition switch that is attached to the end of the lock cylinder. This requires disabling the airbag system. I wouldnt recommend trying this yourself, unless you are familiar with these systems. You can easily junk your car if you do something wrong. You can try checking the voltage to fuse #23 and circuit breaker #1 in the junction box when this is happening and for good measure, check it again when its functioning properly. It may help point in the right direction, but wont let you condemn the ignition switch, as it would need to be tested right at the switch.

Response From dmelvin

Okay I just had an epiphany: I was just doing some tests on the car and I got this results; when I turned the key to the 2 position all the appliances would work but as soon as I would start the car the pw/ac/heater wouldn't. I'd turn the car off pull the keys out turn it to the 2 position (have to repeat this a couple of times to work) and then all the appliances would work again. They'd immediately stop if I turned on the car as suggested by the previous result. HENCE would this suggest and alternator issue as the alternator takes over for the power distribution after the car is started?!?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thread getting long so may be a repeat or confusing you:


Battery/alternator: Battery is there to start the car mostly as a reserve of power. Once running alternator will put back what was taken/lost from the battery quickly such that it really is and should remain at full charge while running, even running everything electrical in the vehicle. Battery cover sudden demands by split seconds and alternator will then cover that new load and battery is all happy again.


Essentially if there's isn't a wiring or other electrical problem the car would run just fine without an alternator at all (or working alternator) as long as the reserve capacity of the battery was adequate. Time limit to that situation.


Just the time when starter is cranking the ignition switch will disable quite a few functions to allow as much power to starter as possible then when you plain let go the typical ignition self returns to plain run mode enabling anything you wish. Seems there's a dead spot with that whether released to that spot or just put there without starting it's not doing what it should or you wouldn't be here asking.


That "dead" spot for an analogy is like a physical turning dimmer when going thru the range may find a dead spot that either stays dead or may take time to make the connection.


Whatever: This would lead me to the ignition switch itself and seems that's where this thread is at.


Note on parts outlets, any really: The common reason for being there is to sell parts - no surprise. The employees may or may not be trained mechanics at all. Some are real mechanics that for whatever reason can't or don't wish to plain do it any more but stay associated with the car biz.


Ultimately the customer chooses which parts are needed NOT the parts place! Techs and shops are customers of parts places also. In short, their job is to sell parts and YOUR job is to know which ones,
Tom

Response From GC

Im done

Response From Hammer Time

No, it wouldn't suggest that at all but it would suggest a bad ignition switch............. Oh, I forgot, the engineers at Autozone said that wasn't possible.

Response From kev2

Did I waste my time ......
a simple test was offered. to confirm a suspected ignition switch


PS your above logic is flawed.... circuits are same

Response From Hammer Time

Apparently

Response From dmelvin

Wouldn't disabling the air bag system just require detaching the negative battery cable from the post? I did the quick test to diagnose if it was the ignition switch by inserting my key into the 2 position, putting the car in neutral, turning the key to the start position, then letting it snap back to the 2 position. The result was the trac on and trac off indicator as well as the abs indicator beeping and flashing then turning off. Is this a partial confirmation? Again appreciate the help, I really want to know more about my car and be self reliant when it comes to these things.

Response From dmelvin

As far as the transmission having any problems it doesn't. When the lights default on the dash, the air bag indicator does comes on initially as well as the ABS. CEL is not on. It really is quite the mystery.

Response From GC

Wiggling the key is kinda far out on changing anything with this, but free and easy to try.

You mentioned that the abs and trac lights come on if you try using windows or heater. At this point I would suspect ignition switch, but everything is a guess without testing. Are you going to be testing and repairing this yourself?

Response From dmelvin

I thought so too as far as wiggling the key goes, and it definitely could have worked short term, but I am looking for a more long term solution. As a newly graduated college student I do plan on doing the repairs themselves. I've been at this for a month or so, thought it would be something like a bad battery, terminals or cables but it is abundantly apparent it is not. With regards to the ignition switch, would that explain why everything tends to work after about 15 minutes of running the car? I've heard theories of metal expansion (therefore more current flow) or the battery building up enough charge. Then again all the battery has to do is have enough charge to start the alternator and then it takes over right? Your help is sincerely appreciated.

1999 Chrysler 300M Radiator Fans Not Working/AC

Showing 4 out of 6 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From ChevyAllTheWay on 1999 Chrysler 300M Radiator Fans Not Working/AC

1999 Chrysler
300M
3.5 H0
163,000 miles

Yesterday, I got out of my car after driving it and I heard a strange noise. We popped the hood and water and steam were spurting out of the coolant reservoir.
We waited for it to cool down, and attempted to drive it home. It did fine on the freeway, but as soon as we idled at a light, it quickly started overheating. As, I continued to drive it, trying to make it home, my temperature would get close to the red, and then quickly drop and it would repeat this process.
The AC also has stopped working. The radiator fans do not turn on. We tried replacing one of the fan relays but it didn't change anything.
What could this possibly be?

My check engine light is NOT on.

Response From somebody

Hello,

I have the same car and the same problem:
• Chrysler 300M 1999 / 3.5
• Radiator fans and AC not working

Alternator is charging well.
Radiator fans are OK.
In fact, I got the problem in a small garage after the cooling has been changed. The guy did not find the problem but he wired the fans with a manual on / off switch inside the car in order I can go back home.

The 2 relays (hi & lo speed) seem to be OK.
The fuses are OK.
There are no OBD errors.
Engine temp gauge is OK.

Other things that don’t work:
• Horn
• Panel lightning if headlights are on
• Outside temp is wrong (zero)
• Battery light is ON

Please let me know how you solved the problem…

Response From Hammer Time

This question is 2 years old and belongs to someone else. Please start a new question of your own.

Response From Sidom

I think I see the problem here..... A Chevy guy is driving a Mopar ..........No? ok it was just a guess....

The fans not coming on is definitely causing your problem. That system uses 2 relays, a low & high speed, which the PCM grounds to turn the fans on
The 1st thing you should so would be to manually power up the fans to see if the work. After that you need to check both relay sockets. 2 should have power, one feeds the fans and the other one is the one the pcm uses to ground the relay. If you have power on 2 legs, the fans are good then the problem would be for some reason the pcm isn't ground the relay and that would need to be traced down or you have 2 bad relays if the PCM is grounding the terminal....

I'm unable to post any info at this time so I can't post a wiring diagram for the system but suggest you get one and that will really help you trace this problem down....

Response From Hammer Time

Be sure to check the fuses at the top of the diagram

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

One picture is worth a 1000 words........ That pretty much says it all......