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Husky Liners
2003 Chevrolet Venture Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump 3rd Seat Floor Mat~ May Require Trimming For Correct Fit/Trim Guides Molded In Mat
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Chevrolet Venture Rear
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$106.02
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.25" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.25" Id
    • Shape: Large Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chevrolet Venture FWD V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
ACDelco
2004 Chevrolet Venture Engine Mount ACDelco

P311-0335AFF    W0133-1976490  New

Qty:
$165.83
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Chevrolet Venture
ACDelco
2004 Chevrolet Venture Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly ACDelco

P311-2397520    W0133-2355148  New

Qty:
$310.46
ACDelco Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel BrakeABS
2004 - Chevrolet Venture Plus 4-Wheel ABS
ACDelco
2001 Chevrolet Venture Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly ACDelco

P311-2397520    W0133-2355148  New

Qty:
$310.46
ACDelco Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Plastic Sensor Wire Clip (2nd Design Hub)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Chevrolet Venture
ACDelco
2003 Chevrolet Venture Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly ACDelco

P311-2397520    W0133-2355148  New

Qty:
$310.46
ACDelco Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Wheel Speed Sensor
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2003 - Chevrolet Venture Value
ACDelco
2005 Chevrolet Venture Spark Plug ACDelco

P311-2AC5391    W0133-2043348  New

Qty:
$19.53
ACDelco Spark Plug
  • Professional Rapidfire
  • Rapidfire
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Venture
ACDelco
2005 Chevrolet Venture Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Venture
ACDelco
2005 Chevrolet Venture Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Venture
ACDelco
2005 Chevrolet Venture Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Venture

Showing 1 - 10 of 4,198 Products.


Latest Chevrolet Venture Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Chevrolet Venture Heating Problem

Showing 10 out of 11 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From lawden on 2003 Chevrolet Venture Heating Problem

I am currently experiencing a heating problem with my 2003 Chevrolet Venture. When the van is idiling, the heat stops blowing and slowly gets cold. When I start traveling again, the heat begins working again. Coolant levels are ok and all hoses appear to be sealed and in working order. I was told that a valve could be responsible for not keeping the heat in when the car is idiling and then closes when the car begins traveling creating the necessary vaccum pressure to push the heat into the passenger compartment of the vehicle. Any ideas what else to look for and to bring the heat back into our car in this most necessary time of the year?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's still blowing air right? If coolant flow thru core is weak this could happen. I'd feel the heater hoses and see if there is a sudden drop off in temp along their route. Vacuum may control air direction and a heater control valve in some cars (not sure for this one) but vacuum is higher at idle then going along so that's not the likely problem so far.

Sometimes the water pump impeller itself isn't up to snuff and just needs more RPMs to push coolant around. Personally that problem has never happened with car for me but it has been reported here and elswhere that it in fact can be the source of a problem like that,

T

Response From lawden

Yes, air is still flowing, it is just cold when idling. A visual inspection of the hoses found that they appeared to be o.k., but I must admit that I do not know which hoses are the heater hoses. Any suggestions on where I can find a schematic to determine their placement within the engine compartment? What are my options if coolant flow thru the core is weak? Flush the heater core?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Flushing system would be a good thing anyway. Heater hoses are dang near universal in that input line is 5/8 hose and output 3/4 hose. They should go towards firewall on passenger's side. Usually the input line starts near the water pump and may go thru a heater control valve with either or both electrical controls and a diaphragm to control water flow for selected temps.

The input line would be engine temp (watch that!) and would stay about the same temp to the control valve if used and on to firewall. You might have to wait a bit but if it get cold along the route then something is wrong there. The output hose is less temp if heater is blowing the hot air but could be the same if it can't exchange the heat.

Weak coolant flow for any reason - low coolant, plugged, would result in less heat. Since driving along seems to make it behave then the flow is in question - we know that.

Sometimes things as simple as the pressure cap isn't holding pressure can alter the volume of warm/hot coolant to core. Any air in the system just messes up all diagnosing so you always need to know that's not a factor.

I'm no thinking of a wild variety of problems because you said it behaves when driving along,

T

Response From lawden

Ok...The heater core has been flushed with no problems noted. The hoses have been checked signaling proper air flow across the heater core. I was told that a possible check valve might be responsible for the problem. A repair manual has been consulted for the vehicle and no mention of a check valve is made, but the book is not very thorough. Does this vehicle have a check valve and could this be the source of the problem? Thanks for your ongoing help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just looked and couldn't find a heater control valve listed for this vehicle?? That would be in line to adjust water flow thru core and not all systems do it that way. I think this uses an electrical actuator for a temp blend door in distribution box plenum. I would think if that wasn't diverting desired air flow % thru heater core it would be warmer at low speeds so let's not make that conclusion quite yet.

Feel the in and out hoses to the core when it's idling and blowing cold. Are then both hot or both cold? Then try lowest fan but highest heat request and rev up to about 1,500 RPM and see if hoses warm and air get warm in cabin.

Let's see if we can narrow down the possibilities of what's up with this,

T

Response From lawden

Tom,
Recently the van has now began to leak antifreeze. I had a mechanic look at it and say that it is the intake gaskets that need replaced. I had these replaced in Nov. of 2006. Do they need replaced already? I called around for a service quote and was told anywhere from $500-$1300 with the dealerships winning the upward total (suprising I know). Does this sound right?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The intake manifold gasket are somewhat common and there was or is a settlement with GM about this - check on that for the cost of the first round. I've never heard of this twice! OE gasketing stunk and the OE dex-cool was blamed for problems with the whole cooling system not just gaskets.

Quote of $1300 seems way too high! What was to be done with that? $500 around here would be more like it - perhaps less. Gasket are cheap - it's a labor thing. Aftermarket gaskets are frequently better than originals in my experience.

Check on that GM/DexCool settlement. All I know is that the V8s were excluded for some reason?? Something with the Dex-cool anti-freeze was different and caused plugging up of things real early. I've not seen it in person but there are tons of pics of fairly new GM V6 and some others with gummy rust that would collect even at the radiator caps and showed dismantled engines that were a nightmare.

You might find the pic at www.GoHTSN.com - I think they discuss the problems. Hope you keep records. This could be one of those problems?? Look for gunk at the radiator cap for now and something has to give with it leaking anyway. You do not have to use the OE Dex-cool anti-freeze again as far as I know. I won't again,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://www.gohtsn.com/article_1084.shtml


That should hav info on the settlement,

T

Response From lawden

Thanks, the first time I had it done, I thought I would be good for more than the year and a half it has been since it was replaced. Now looking at another repair bill, this is getting tiring. I think that this is probably the source of my heating problems as well. What will the settlement mean for me? I have only used Dex-Cool antifreeze because that is what the manual said to use. What do you recommend I use from now on? I will not use it anymore if I don't have to.

Thanks for your help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Des-Cool is still an "EG" anti-freeze - 'Ethylene-Glycol' based product. It first claimed it didn't need to be changed for 5 years and it's a different color as you know. In general it's best to ge with what a manufacturer suggests for a vehicle and that's where GM got caught up as there apparently were enough problems with it's properties to cause real engine problems associated with not controlling corrosion.

For some time engines have used more alloys and things that needed extra help and along comes this product and the vehicles clearly stated to use only that in them.

I've seen the pics of engines torn down that showed incredible build up and damage that ruined parts that would ordinarily last the life of a vehicle.

With anti-freeze the level of freeze protection does not expire with EG but the additives do. I have dealt with vehicles off new car warranties and read the product claims looking for "Meets or exceeds new car requirements" and have done well with that.

I'm seeing brand name products with no color added with claims to be compatible with the other EG based products out there and will start using that with the next change out/flush when vehicles are past warranty.

The gasket problems have happened to many of these vehicles but I was blaming that on the original gasket and still have not seen the damage that this original anti-freeze is blamed for causing. You are the first I've heard of with a second go around with the gasket - and with a 5 or so year old vehicle!! Something isn't right with that!

T

2000 Chevrolet Venture – “clicking noise” misdiagnosed by my mechanic

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From agarb on 2000 Chevrolet Venture – “clicking noise” misdiagnosed by my mechanic

A noise recently developed on my 2000 Chevrolet Venture. It is a clicking noise that gets faster and louder as the vehicle goes faster. When stopped, with the engine running, there is no noise.

Last week, a local shop used a “chassis ear” to diagnose the problem as the left front wheel bearing. In addition to $100 to diagnose the problem, they wanted $325 for the replacement part and $120 to install it. I thought their price was too steep and I told them not to do the repair.

On Saturday, I bought a new hub and bearing assembly at the local parts store for $120 and installed it myself. Problem is, the noise is still there, unchanged. I called the local shop and politely expressed my displeasure in their misdiagnosis. They offered to take another look for the problem or refund my $100 diagnosis fee. I decided to give them another chance and will take the vehicle back to tomorrow.

Any thoughts on what the problem might? Could it be a CV joint? I certainly don’t hear any clunking noises when turning.
Any thoughts on what the responsibility of the local shop should be towards correcting their misdiagnosis? What are my ethical obligations are to fairly compensate the shop for their time in this situation?

Response From Guest

Hi, Original Poster here. Talk about a blast from the past! My original post was over two years ago. I finally got the problem fixed, no help from the shop, though. I realized that if I slightly depressed the e-brake the clicking would go away. I pulled the rear wheels and found the shoes needed replaced. I also had a leaking wheel cylinder on the driver side. After replacing these items myself, the clicking has been banished to just a painful memory. Hope this can help somebody else.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Thanks for coming by and letting all of us know the fix. Might help another poster.

Response From DanD

You’ve just received a lesson that automotive repairs are not always, black or white/ this or that.
The repair facility no doubt thought that was the noise and would not have made their recommendations if they honestly thought that; who wants to be proven wrong?
Chasing noises around a vehicle can be a very difficult thing; especially if the noise cannot be reproduced in the shop on a hoist. I still haven’t found a Tech that’s willing to risk injury by hanging on to the outside of a vehicle while driving down the road. LOL
It’s unfortunate that they were wrong but with you not allowing them to perform the repairs; we really don’t know how they would have handled the situation?
All I can go by is what I would have done; in this situation. I would have openly admitted that I only thought the hub/bearing assembly was the cause and added a disclaimer that it might not be; we would have to try it to confirm it. Then if it didn’t cure the problem we’d have to work together on finding the root cause. What I mean by working together; is that I would be on my time for the labour; for the rest of the checking. Keeping you informed every step of the way; while in search of the gremlin. I know don't say it; hind sight is 20/20; but after many years in the trade I’ve learnt to keep everyone in the loop and explain what we’re up against.
The way it sounds this repair facility is willing to do something to help you; with what they’ve offered. When they do find the cause of the noise, is when the rest of this story will play out; we don’t know what their policies are?
Ask them before you allow them to proceed; with round two, in this adventure.

As for you finding a cheaper bearing and doing the work yourself that’s good; everyone wants to save a buck. But know the repair facility is going to have to inspect your repairs making sure that they were performed properly and completely. Things like; were the fasteners tightened with a torque wrench to the proper value, did the brake rotor get checked for excessive run-out (warp-age), and were all the mating surfaces properly cleaned?
Also just a word of warning; second line wheel bearings; as far as I’m concerned, are junk. The first hard road shock from a pot hole and that bearing will begin to degrade at a very high rate. The factory or their equivalent after market bearings are not lasting; why would a sub standard one? There’s more then just the packaging that makes a first line bearing more expensive.

As for the guest that replied; with their comment of used bearings; well all I can say there is that they’re talking out the south end of a north bound moose. LOL
There's a reason that we refer to a salvage yard as a JUNK YARD. There are something’s that just can’t be put back into service, without them failing; bearings are one of them.

Dan.

Response From Guest

I have the same problem. It is hard to replace wheel bearing, to put it in and expensive. The easiser solution is to go to a used car parts place and buy a slihghly used wheel hub (it includes the bearing too) - costs about 30$. Any mechanic can put it in for 50 $, much easier to replace the hub than the wheel bearin.

Response From flgmtech1

they may have diagnosed it for a Hub noise, but this is generally a noise that starts out at around 35 and gets louder the faster you go, it also is more of a loud humming that gets louder, things to note is that they may have told you the wrong side, the best way to make sure it is a hub issue is to turn the wheel when the nois is present at a steady speed and if turning toward the left or right it eases up or stops it can help to justify a hub noise, although if it does not change it could also mean both front hubs are affected, not common, but does happen. Also, if you still have the hub you took off, take it and put it on the side you did not touch as they are interchangeable and see if the noise stops. It is easier to jack the front end and secure with stands and using a stehescope listen to both hubs while someone slowly increases the speed in drive, BUT BE VERY CAREFUL! This can go very badly if you are not careful!
I have not heard to many hubs that created a Clicking noise, my recommendation is in this time of economic down turn to shop around to multiple dealers who can offer second opinions.