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ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Aveo Fuel Tank Cap ACDelco

P311-0F2C1BD    W0133-1720025  New

Qty:
31.81
ACDelco Fuel Tank Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Chevrolet Aveo
Genuine
2011 Chevrolet Aveo Engine Valve Cover Genuine

P311-3946ECF    W0133-2308684  New

Qty:
207.52
Genuine Engine Valve Cover
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Chevrolet Aveo
MTC
2010 Chevrolet Aveo Engine Valve Cover MTC - with Bolts & Gasket

P311-4CE1666    W0133-2308684  New

Qty:
207.75
MTC Engine Valve Cover
  • with Bolts & Gasket
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Aveo
ACDelco
2011 Chevrolet Aveo Engine Coolant / Antifreeze ACDelco - Orange Dex-Cool 1 Gal

P311-4CFE836    W0133-1922676  New

Qty:
24.46
ACDelco Engine Coolant / Antifreeze
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM Concentrate
  • (Orange - HOAT ethylene glycol) - OEM Approval: GM Dex-Cool. Meets Specifications: 6277M ASTM D 3306 ASTM D 4985 Mixture: Full Strength - Recommended 50/50 mixture with distilled water. Meets or exceeds the specifications of Havoline XLC / Castrol Radicool SF-O
  • Orange Dex-Cool 1 Gal
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Chevrolet Aveo
ACDelco
2005 Chevrolet Aveo Engine Oil Filter ACDelco - Duraguard

P311-0F0DA66    W0133-1916878  New

Qty:
27.33
ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
  • Gold (Professional) E-Type
  • Duraguard
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Chevrolet Aveo
AISIN
2011 Chevrolet Aveo Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-21CEC57    W0133-2076606  New

Qty:
96.74
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Chevrolet Aveo
Mahle
2007 Chevrolet Aveo Exhaust Pipe Flange Gasket Mahle

P311-1452C59    W0133-1887525  New

Qty:
15.01
Mahle Exhaust Pipe Flange Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Chevrolet Aveo
Mahle
2010 Chevrolet Aveo Catalytic Converter Gasket Mahle

P311-1452C59    W0133-1887525  New

Qty:
15.01
Mahle Catalytic Converter Gasket
  • ; Converter to Muffler
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Aveo
Mahle
2011 Chevrolet Aveo Catalytic Converter Gasket Mahle

P311-1452C59    W0133-1887525  New

Qty:
15.01
Mahle Catalytic Converter Gasket
  • ; Manifold to Converter
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Chevrolet Aveo
K&N
2018 Chevrolet Aveo Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L K&N

P311-0A331D0    HP-1017  New

89017524 , L12222 , PH12060 , 57073 , PH48 , PF48E , PH10575 , PH10060 , 729854 , 12640445 , UPF64R , 1651078J00 , SS1017 , 7073 , PF48 , M1113 , PF64 , 7060 , TG10575 , 57060 , XG10060 , TG10060 , XG10575 , PS1017 , 68197769AA , M1113A , 12667194 , 05038041AA , S10060 , 05047769AA , 04892339AA , 19303975 , 12670058

Qty:
16.20
  • Oil Filter
  • ; Premium Oil Filter w/Wrench Off Nut
  • K&N Wrench-Off oil filters are engineered to help ensure high flow rates and exceptional protection from contaminants. Each filter comes with a hex nut welded to the top of the canister, allowing for easy removal with a standard wrench.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Bypass Valve: Yes
    • Filter Material: High Flow Premium Media
    • Gasket Material: Viton Rubber
    • Height: 3.75 In (95 Mm)
    • Outside Diameter: 3 In (76 Mm)
    • Package Material: Paperboard
    • Package Type: Box
    • Product Style: Oil Filters
    • Prop 65 Yes/No: No
    • PSI Relief Valve: 11-17
    • Removal Nut: Yes
    • Removal Nut Size: 1 Inch
    • Style: Canister
    • Thread Specification: M22 X 1.5
    • Title: K&n Hp-1017 Oil Filter
    • Weight: 0.8 Lb (0.4 Kg)
  • K&N premium oil filters are meticulously engineered to offer outstanding filtration and engine protection. Designed to operate with all synthetic, conventional, and blended motor oils, K&N's pleated synthetic-blend filtration media helps to shield your engine from contaminants and ensure a consistent flow of oil. The heavy-duty canister is engineered to be exceptionally durable, and a one-inch welded hex nut can be used for quick and easy filter removal. Each filter is specifically designed to withstand the service intervals recommended by vehicle manufacturers, and is protected by the K&N 1-Year Limited Warranty.
Brand: K&N
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Chevrolet Aveo L 4 Cyl 1.6L 98 1598

Showing 1 - 10 of 2,813 Products.


Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

04aveo camshaft timing marks

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From coffee on 04aveo camshaft timing marks

04 chevrolet aveo 1.6 how do i find the timing marks on the camshaft gears?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

2008 Chevrolet Aveo - Brake Issues Help needed!

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From jonrowe81 on 2008 Chevrolet Aveo - Brake Issues Help needed!

Everyone,

I have a 2008 Chevrolet Aveo, and I've been having some major issues with what seems like the brakes. 50% of the time the car drives fine. The other 50% it feels like the brakes are grabbing and it's literally like i'm driving with my foot halfway down on the breaks. The car will get close to redlining and will shift VERY late (obviously since it's fighting as if i'm pressing down on the break). I don't think it's transmission issues. When the car drives perfectly, there's a bit of delay when I press the brakes but they work perfectly...but when it's driving badly I barely touch the brake pedal and it grabs almost like i've slammed my foot into the floorboard.

Sometimes it's not that bad, others it's really bad and I can't go any faster than 20-30mph. When it's bad, i get out of the car and it smells really bad.

I took it to the auto mechanic that I trust and he did about $500 worth of what seems like really maintenance (complete flush of brake fluid system, changed the wheel cylinders in the rear)

I'm at a loss...but need some help.

One thing i've noticed is that every once in a while the car will get stuck in park and will NOT release from Park without me pushing something into the notch by the gear shift to release from Park. i've read a few things online saying that this is caused by the brake switch going out and is relatively an easy fix/not expensive. Could it be that that brake switch is out, and while i'm driving it's shutting down as if it were in park and it's fighting itself?

As you can tell, i'm mechanically dumb. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Response From GC

Sounds like brake system issue and not trans or brake switch. Has anything foreign been introduced to the hydraulic system (I.E. Has someone put the wrong fluid in the reservoir)? Can you isolate the problem to a particular wheel? Does it pull when it grabs, is one side or wheel wearing more than others?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'd suspect as GC just pointed out if one wheel is really grabbing, pulling and since you smell it likely so. That wheel should (careful checking) feel warm or way too hot right at the wheel.


Flexible brake hoses are high on the list for causing that by not releasing brake pressure back to master cylinder. Proof is finding a wheel stuck while hoisted and quick release of some brake fluid at bleeder if it releases right do replace both for that axle for a front and may only use one for both rears - not sure if one each wheel or not at the moment. If one rear some cars will not pull much vs fronts are more obvious,


T

2004 Chevy Aveo - Key Won't Come Out

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From sshewell on 2004 Chevy Aveo - Key Won't Come Out

My daughter's 2004 Chevrolet Aveo is now experiencing a new problem. Several weeks ago I put $1000 into it to fix the front wheel assembly. Now, it is having a new problem. When she turns the car off, the key will not come out of the slot. I was able to search the internet and deduce that it may be a solenoid or something like that, but I am hoping you guys, who have been SO helpful to me in the past, can offer some more advice.

When we jiggle the gearshift around, you can hear something inside the steering column clicking. After several attempts, we can get the key out. Pressing that little button just above the gear shift also helps a bit. Now, the gear shift is INCREDIBLY difficult to move out of park. Also, she said that sometimes it is difficult to move from drive to reverse.

I am hoping that both issues are related, but usually my luck doesn't run that way. I would REALLY appreciate it if you guys could come through for me as you have so many times before.

Any suggestions that you can offer will be GREATLY appreciated.

Steven

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Bulletin No.: 07-07-30-007
Date: April 04, 2007

TECHNICAL
Subject:Automatic Transaxle/Transmission Shift Lever May Not Shift Out of Park (Replace Brake Transaxle Shift Interlock (BTSI) Solenoid)

Models:2004-2006 Chevrolet Aveo2004-2007 Chevrolet Optra (Canada Only)2005-2006 Pontiac Wave (Canada Only)

Condition
Some customers may comment on either of the following conditions:The automatic transaxle shift lever may not shift out of the park position and the ignition key cannot be removed (North American vehicles only).The automatic transaxle shift lever may not shift out of the park position (vehicles outside of North America only).

Correction

Replace the brake transaxle shift interlock (BTSI) solenoid. Refer to Shift Lock Solenoid/Switch Assembly Replacement in SI

2009 Aveo high RPMs, low acceleration

Showing 4 out of 8 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From tallk2me on 2009 Aveo high RPMs, low acceleration

2009
Chevrolet
Aveo LT
45000miles
(2.0 engine)

As of yesterday, my Aveo's Check Engine light came on and the car itself started driving all bogged down. The car is very slow to get up to even 25mph, while the RPMs are jumping high. I took it to the dealership today and they ran the codes, and told me about an acceleration sensor. Then they called back to say that they believe it to be a bad ground to the accelerator itself. However, they have spent 5 hours now trying to find the bad ground and are unable to do so. Any other ideas or advice here would be great... this is likely to be quite expensive due to the amount of time in labor.

Response From Conrad Beard

My aveo will get high RPMs but the light doen't come on. It first happen March 20111 as I was pulling into a rest Area, I thought I had pulled next to a tracter. When I turned the engine off my wife asked what the noise was so I turned it back on and it reved up to 4000 rpms while in park. I had noticed that when I pulled in to park and took it out of gear it was rough. Took it to the Chevy dealer and they couldn't find anything and said the engine light should have came on. It didn't.
This March it would happen when I was increasing my on the road. It would reve up but pick up speed very slowly. Real loud, not much power. The dealer still could not find anything.

I reported it too GM last year but they just had me take it into the dealer.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This thread is over a year old and belongs to someone else. If you have a question, please start a new thread of your own.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Try to find out what specific trouble code they got. Acceleration sensor? Must be a communication error. Poor ground to any sensor can cause a problem, but need more info.

Response From tallk2me

The code on the paperwork is listed as P2138. The tech never found the actual problem, I had to cut off their exploration time when the labor cost hit $400.00. It's running just fine at the moment, but I am scared it will occur again.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

talktome; The only thing I could find was a TSB, dated 06/28/10, relating to the sensor 1 & sensor 2 correlation (P2138). The TSB refers to 'Water intrusion into instrument panel to body harness connector, causing out of parameter voltage readings'. The TSB #: 07-06-04-019D.

Response From Hammer Time

This car should still be covered under the 5yr/100K drive train warranty. I would contact the dealer.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Hammer is right on the Powertrain Warranty. The problem is probably the throttle body. I have replaced several on this model car at my dealership.

2004 Chevrolet Aveo has bent valves. Worth fixing? Advice?

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From sweetcataxtrophe on 2004 Chevrolet Aveo has bent valves. Worth fixing? Advice?

My 2004 Chevy Aveo's timing belt broke, bending the engine valves (a very common problem for '04-'07 Aveos). It stopped accelerating at the wheel. Mechanic is quoting me $2600 to replace the engine, but I don't want to do it if it's likely that I'll need other expensive repairs in the next couple of years, which leads me to a few questions:

1. If I replace the engine, is it likely that I'll have other expensive problems in the next few years? I realize you don't have a crystal ball, but I'm hoping someone here might have an idea of what I can expect based on any knowledge/experience with Aveos.

2. Are certain engines more reliable than others? What about better deals? I have no idea if the mechanic quoted me the price of a new engine or a used one, but from my understanding Chevy claims to have fixed the timing belt/valve problem in 2008, which makes me think I should look for a new(er) engine (For the record, I don't need a souped-up engine for performance--just one that won't break if something happens, like the timing belt snaps)

3. At this point, is it smarter to spend $3000 - $5000 on an older used Toyota or Honda (which are supposed to be more reliable) than replace the engine?

Additional details: I use my car primarily to commute. About once a week, I drive 70 miles each way to my boyfriend's and work meetings. My car has about 50,000 miles and no warranty. It's an automatic. I had other problems before it broke down, but I'm not sure how serious they are. The shifter sticks pretty badly when pulling out of park and, recently, the car started making a humming noise around 60 mph (wondering if that was from the timing belt?) plus creaking noises when making slow turns. I also replaced the battery, which seemed like a premature repair.

Response From Hammer Time

At that price it would have to be a used engine. What I don't understand is why they want to change the engine in the first place. I understand it will have a lot of bent valves but it should be completely repairable for a lot less money than that.
You car doesn't have any specific problems with the timing belt. Interference engines are very common and so is bending the valves when the belt breaks. the whole key is to change the belt when your supposed to and avoid the damage.

Response From sweetcataxtrophe

At that price it would have to be a used engine. What I don't understand is why they want to change the engine in the first place. I understand it will have a lot of bent valves but it should be completely repairable for a lot less money than that.
You car doesn't have any specific problems with the timing belt. Interference engines are very common and so is bending the valves when the belt breaks. the whole key is to change the belt when your supposed to and avoid the damage.

You mean replacing just the valves, or bending them back into shape? I've heard that repairing valves by bending them back creates a weak spot, which makes sense.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you can't bend valves back but replacing the bent ones would be cheaper than a whole engine and the rest of that engine should be in good shape.

Response From sweetcataxtrophe

No, you can't bend valves back but replacing the bent ones would be cheaper than a whole engine and the rest of that engine should be in good shape.

I've been researching online and I keep reading that bent valves can also mean the cylinder head and pistons could be cracked, in which case it's better to replace the whole thing. Is that true? Thanks again for all your help!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Sure, other damage is possible but not likely. We routinely repair heads with bent valves from broken timing belts. It's not uncommon at all and rarely requires replacing the whole engine. You have to at least disassemble it to find out.