Shop Discount Center Links

I have a 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis,and the center link is slipping out from the idler arm.
I ordered ,and picked up a new center link,but the worn out part was not included with the new center link. I was told by another auto parts store that the bushing,or sleeve that slips over the center link bolt on the passenger side is a different part that is sold seperately.

The idler arm connects to the center link. What is this part called? It goes between the center link,and idler arm.Is their also a ball joint inside this collar,or sleeve? Thanks

Those are parts that come with the idler arm. They are just rubber filler washers.

^^^^^^ What he said. Go get an Idler Arm.

I replaced the tie rod ends and center link (aka right inner tie rod end) on my 1994 Ford E150... a relatively simple job. It went well except for one kinda important thing -- I cannot get the retainer nut joining the left inner tie rod to the center link to tighten to torque specs (75 ft. lbs.). It tightened to about 20 ft. lbs. (a rough guess), and then the threaded post began turning, and the retaining nut can no longer get any tighter. (It is on there far enough to get the cotter pin in.)

My question: Is it possible to pop off the back of the tie rod end (where the zerk fitting is) and put a wrench on the post, or will that just ruin the brand new tie rod?

So the joint is spinning when you go to tighten the nut? If that is the case one trick that I use is taking a large set of channel locks and squeezing the joint into the center link. The pressure should cause the joint to grip the hole it slides through, so you can tighten the nut without it spinning.

There might be other tricks and if there are I am interested in reading about them.

Hmmm... I think the post thing is tapered, so that just might work. And it'll be a heck of a lot easier than tearing open the backside of the joint. Thanks! I'll try that in the morning.

And it'll be a heck of a lot easier than tearing open the backside of the joint.

Huh?

Be thankful you didn't try that.
There is nothing inside there but the round, ball base that rotates in the encased housing that you were about to destroy.

What I do on these, especially ones with difficulty to grip the bottom, is to pop it apart and take a center punch in your hole and on the taper of the joint. Peening it with the center punch gives it some grip and when you put it in its 99% effective to hold without spinning while you tighten it.

About 2 months ago as I was driving down the road and made a turn, I heard a crack in my front end. It then started to shake uncontrollably. I had it towed to the garage and it ended up being the center link that holds the tie rods. They replaced it and the tie rods and everthing appeared fine for about 3 weeks when it happened again. This time it was on the other side. Again, they replaced and since then I have had to tow it in 2 more times for the same thing, making it a toal of 4 times so far. I just got it back again and I am sure there has to be something else causing pressure on that piece. The mechanics could not find anything and they even had the Kia Specialist on the phone who could not provide and reason for it. The steering to me does not feel the same as it used to. It feels as though it is looser than before this all happened. I just don't know what it is but I know it will happen again and I am afraid to drive my car anymore. Could it be the axle??? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am sure they asked you this, but do you have rough roads where you drive or does this see a lot of off roading?

Looking at the picture of the center link itself, it looks pretty chintzy. The answer to why the link broke actually lies in the link itself. They should be able to look at the place where the link snapped and tell if it was a casting defect or if it was over stressed.

SIMPLE QUESTIONS - need to know how many grease fittings on the front end of a 2002 Chevy Astro van - seems the lube guy is missing some of them - he said only 8 and I know there are more than that!

There are one on each ball joint (4) 2 on each idler arm (4) one on each tie rod end (4) and one on the center link where the pitman arm connects (1) for a grand total of 13. I also have a 2002 Astro van.

Steve

I have 1968 Impala Fastback. I am putting in a 454 big block engine with a 700R4 trans.
I put a custom oilpan on and when I turn the steering wheel sharply to the right the tie rod hits the oil pan.
Is there a different draglink for a small block and big block? I know they put 396/427 in the 68's without that problem.
Any idea how to fix this.

Thanks
Ken

Different center link? Not sure. I'd be more interested if the "custom" oil pan is the problem,

T