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Centric
Qty:
95.61
Centric Steering Center Link  Front
  • Centric Premium Center Link Assembly
  • Engineering Validated & Certified in the U.S.A.. Application specific low friction polymer or metal-to-metal designs. Forged steel body construction for increased tensile strength. Engineered for improved ball retention & lateral stability
  • Premium Steering and Suspension
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attribute ID (Type): California Proposition 65
  • Centric Premium Links are precision engineered to restore original steering characteristics. OE style polymer bearings provide smooth; responsive vehicle control and reduce friction and fatigue.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2015 - Ford F-350 Super Duty RWD Front
Moog
2013 Ford F-350 Super Duty Steering Center Link Moog

P311-1CBA399    DS300038  New

2724283 , 4401183 , 45B1183 , 62665318 , BC3Z3304D , MS40972

Qty:
209.69
Moog Steering Center Link
  • Center Link
  • Design Allows Easier Installation
  • MOOG DS300038 Center Link
  • By constantly introducing design enhancements that extend product life and simplify installation and replacement, MOOG has earned its reputation as the chassis industry’s Problem Solver.
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2013 - Ford F-350 Super Duty RWD

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mercury Grand Marquis Center link

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From mercuryman on Mercury Grand Marquis Center link

I have a 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis,and the center link is slipping out from the idler arm.
I ordered ,and picked up a new center link,but the worn out part was not included with the new center link. I was told by another auto parts store that the bushing,or sleeve that slips over the center link bolt on the passenger side is a different part that is sold seperately.

The idler arm connects to the center link. What is this part called? It goes between the center link,and idler arm.Is their also a ball joint inside this collar,or sleeve? Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Those are parts that come with the idler arm. They are just rubber filler washers.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

^^^^^^ What he said. Go get an Idler Arm.

2001 Kia Sportage EX - Center link holding tie rods keep breaking

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From ann541 on 2001 Kia Sportage EX - Center link holding tie rods keep breaking

About 2 months ago as I was driving down the road and made a turn, I heard a crack in my front end. It then started to shake uncontrollably. I had it towed to the garage and it ended up being the center link that holds the tie rods. They replaced it and the tie rods and everthing appeared fine for about 3 weeks when it happened again. This time it was on the other side. Again, they replaced and since then I have had to tow it in 2 more times for the same thing, making it a toal of 4 times so far. I just got it back again and I am sure there has to be something else causing pressure on that piece. The mechanics could not find anything and they even had the Kia Specialist on the phone who could not provide and reason for it. The steering to me does not feel the same as it used to. It feels as though it is looser than before this all happened. I just don't know what it is but I know it will happen again and I am afraid to drive my car anymore. Could it be the axle??? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Response From ann541 Top Rated Answer

Yes, we do have some rough roads where I live but I haven't had any problems like this for years. Since I have had my car in the shop for this same problem 4 times in the last 2 1/2 months, I tend to think there is some other cause that is making that control arm break. I just have a hard time believing that the same part is faulty each time. Could there be anything with the steering that could cause pressure? It seems that the steering is looser than it was before all this happened, especially when I am turning. I really believe that it will break again soon but they are saying they can't find anything wrong.

Response From Discretesignals

I am sure they asked you this, but do you have rough roads where you drive or does this see a lot of off roading?

Looking at the picture of the center link itself, it looks pretty chintzy. The answer to why the link broke actually lies in the link itself. They should be able to look at the place where the link snapped and tell if it was a casting defect or if it was over stressed.

1994 E150 new tie rod issue

Showing 7 out of 9 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From gooch mango on 1994 E150 new tie rod issue

I replaced the tie rod ends and center link (aka right inner tie rod end) on my 1994 Ford E150... a relatively simple job. It went well except for one kinda important thing -- I cannot get the retainer nut joining the left inner tie rod to the center link to tighten to torque specs (75 ft. lbs.). It tightened to about 20 ft. lbs. (a rough guess), and then the threaded post began turning, and the retaining nut can no longer get any tighter. (It is on there far enough to get the cotter pin in.)

My question: Is it possible to pop off the back of the tie rod end (where the zerk fitting is) and put a wrench on the post, or will that just ruin the brand new tie rod?

Response From Discretesignals

So the joint is spinning when you go to tighten the nut? If that is the case one trick that I use is taking a large set of channel locks and squeezing the joint into the center link. The pressure should cause the joint to grip the hole it slides through, so you can tighten the nut without it spinning.

There might be other tricks and if there are I am interested in reading about them.

Response From gooch mango

Hmmm... I think the post thing is tapered, so that just might work. And it'll be a heck of a lot easier than tearing open the backside of the joint. Thanks! I'll try that in the morning.

Response From Hammer Time

And it'll be a heck of a lot easier than tearing open the backside of the joint.

Huh?

Response From gooch mango



And it'll be a heck of a lot easier than tearing open the backside of the joint.

Huh?
On the tie rod is some sort of cap (where the zerk fitting goes) that looks like it is pressed into place. I was thinking I would have to pry that cap off, and find some way to grip the base of the threaded post, so I could torque the retaining nut on the other end. I had forgotten that the post itself was tapered, and if I just forced it a bit deeper into the hole, it would grab enough to allow me to torque it down. Fortunately, I didn't need to go down that road thanks to the suggestions from Discretesignals and nickwarner.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Be thankful you didn't try that.
There is nothing inside there but the round, ball base that rotates in the encased housing that you were about to destroy.

Response From nickwarner

What I do on these, especially ones with difficulty to grip the bottom, is to pop it apart and take a center punch in your hole and on the taper of the joint. Peening it with the center punch gives it some grip and when you put it in its 99% effective to hold without spinning while you tighten it.

Response From gooch mango


What I do on these, especially ones with difficulty to grip the bottom, is to pop it apart and take a center punch in your hole and on the taper of the joint. Peening it with the center punch gives it some grip and when you put it in its 99% effective to hold without spinning while you tighten it.

So you are suggesting I should score the post and the hole a bit before I put them together? Rough them up so they don't slide so easy? I'll try that next time. Thanks!

Response From gooch mango


So the joint is spinning when you go to tighten the nut? If that is the case one trick that I use is taking a large set of channel locks and squeezing the joint into the center link. The pressure should cause the joint to grip the hole it slides through, so you can tighten the nut without it spinning.

There might be other tricks and if there are I am interested in reading about them.

Worked like a charm... took all of 5 minutes. I had forgotten that the post was tapered, as it was covered by the boot. If only all of my car problems were so easy to fix!

Thanks!