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  • 1980
  • 1979

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    Magnaflow
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Best Selling Genuine International Catalytic Converters

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  • Constantly Updated Inventory of International Replacement Catalytic Converter Parts

We stock Catalytic Converter parts for most International models, including Scout II.


Magnaflow
Qty:
913.04
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter
  • Universal Catalytic Converter - 2.50in.
  • CARB Executive Order D-193-132; Certification Level : PRE-OBDII OE Spec Cutting and Welding Required During Installation
  • Universal Catalytic Converter - 2.50in.
  • 2.50in. Universal California Pre-OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Adaptable: No
    • Body Height: 4
    • Body Length: 13
    • Body Shape: Round
    • Body Type: Spun
    • Body Width: 4
    • Heat Shield Attached: No
    • Inlet Attachment: Weld-on
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.5
    • Inlet Orientation: Straight
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Outlet Attachment: Weld-on
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.5
    • Outlet Orientation: Straight
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Overall Length: 13
    • Sensor Port Count: 0
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Subtitle: California / Carb Compliant
    • Title: California Universal
    • Type: Universal
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - International Scout II V 8 Cyl 5.0L 304 -
Magnaflow
Qty:
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter
  • Universal Catalytic Converter - 2.50in.
  • ; Cutting and Welding Required During Installation
  • Universal Catalytic Converter - 2.50in.
  • Universal Standard Grade Federal (Excludes CA)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Adaptable: No
    • Body Height: 3.75
    • Body Length: 12
    • Body Shape: Oval
    • Body Type: Clam Shell
    • Body Width: 5.5
    • Heat Shield Attached: Yes
    • Heat Shield Included: Yes
    • Heat Shield Material: Aluminized Steel
    • Inlet Attachment: Weld-on
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.5
    • Inlet Orientation: Straight
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Outlet Attachment: Weld-on
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.5
    • Outlet Orientation: Straight
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Overall Length: 16
    • Sensor Port Count: 0
    • Series: Standard Grade
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Subtitle: Federal / Epa Compliant
    • Title: Standard Grade Universal
    • Type: Universal
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1979 - International Scout II V 8 Cyl 5.6L 345 -
Bosal
Qty:
104.10
Bosal Catalytic Converter
  • Catalytic Converter
  • ; Cutting and Welding Required During Installation
  • Catalytic Converter
  • BRExhaust Federal Universal Pre-OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Title: Federal Universal
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - International Scout II L 4 Cyl 3.2L 196 -
Walker
Qty:
546.20
Walker Catalytic Converter
  • ; Legal For Use In The State of California And States With CARB Required Legislation Modifications and/or Additional Parts Required. Executive Order # D-182-55
  • Walker CalCat Universal Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube: No
    • Body Height: 4.500
    • Body Length: 13.750
    • Body Shape: Large Oval
    • Body Width: 7.500
    • California Air Resource Board (CARB) Certified: Yes
    • California Air Resources Board (CARB) Certified: Yes
    • Converter Quantity: 1
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet 1 Inside Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet 1 Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Longitud del Cuerpo: 13.750
    • Max Year Covered: 1995
    • Min Year Covered: 1975
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Ranger
    • Most Popular Year: 1994
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
    • NON-OBDII Vehicle Type: Truck T-1
    • Outlet 1 Inside Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet 1 Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Overall Length: 18.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 1150802
      • 1274029
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - International Scout II L 6 Cyl 3.2L 198 -
Walker
Qty:
546.20
Walker Catalytic Converter
  • Legal for sale and use in California and other states requiring CARB-compliant replacement converters. Consult the aftermarket converter regulations in your state for details.; Modifications and/or Additional Parts Required Executive Order # D-182-55
  • Walker CalCat Universal Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube: No
    • Body Height: 4.500
    • Body Length: 13.750
    • Body Shape: Large Oval
    • Body Width: 7.500
    • California Air Resource Board (CARB) Certified: Yes
    • California Air Resources Board (CARB) Certified: Yes
    • Converter Quantity: 1
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet 1 Inside Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet 1 Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Longitud del Cuerpo: 13.750
    • Max Year Covered: 1995
    • Min Year Covered: 1975
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Ranger
    • Most Popular Year: 1994
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
    • NON-OBDII Vehicle Type: Truck T-1
    • Outlet 1 Inside Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet 1 Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Overall Length: 18.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 1150802
      • 1274029
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1979 - International Scout II V 8 Cyl 5.6L 345 -

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

catalytic converter

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From brianpam on catalytic converter

can a badly plugged cat, blow an engine? bend a crank, or piston?

Response From nickwarner

no, but it can make it so it doesn't have enough power to get out of its own way, sucks gas like crazy and misses like no other

Response From brianpam Top Rated Answer

thank u all 4 your help. its not the starter though.... i'm pretty familiar with my truck, except internally. the knock almost goes quiet after i get it up to speed and let off the accelerator. i know the engine needs to be pulled and repaired, im just not to familiar with the bottom end....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Refresh: Sudden bang and subsequent loss of power but noise can diminish without load?

This seems like something plain broke rather that wear out. Even lack of oil pressure would have tell-tale symptoms and if all of a sudden no oil pressure wouldn't last long before engine just locked up.

Seems this was fine until that start up. That leads us to think of things that could happen even if rare right away on start up. The starter is stronger than most realize and it could break itself or anything involved with it seen or unseen.

Can only guess at this as we can't hear it. Hydraulic lock from a fluid getting in a cylinder would cause wild problems - either engine would turn and stop at that, or piston, rod snap, bend or something that would continue to make a noise.

Will take a professional ear and some diagnosis such as cancelling one cylinder at a time and other tests to see if this is a fatal problem for that engine or what??

T

Response From brianpam

hours before it went bang, the oil gauge did flip flop a little. I kept an eye on it, but because i knew my fluid levels were right, i didnt think anymore about it...

Response From brianpam

ok. thank u. well, I turned on my truck one day, and it went bang. something near the crank, and top end, knocks like a tractor. 97 1/2 ton silverado, with a 5.0. And I cant figure out what happened. my cat was so plugged that i assumed thats what did it. And yes my oil was good at the time. fluids never mixed at all. Any suggestions?

Response From matchmatt

Um it is a chev buddy...what do you expect? haha

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That was helpful info matchmatt - not.

Chev small block V8s can (heard of once) have starter work so hard to crank because of some other fault that they break a chunk of engine block off where starter mounts. Didn't see it myself but passed on thru another tech of such a wild happening,

T

Response From matchmatt

lol, I'm just buggin'

Response From re-tired

I have something similar Tom . I was present when a starter broke its nose piece. I've also seen flexplates shatter .

Response From Sidom

As Nick implied, it doesn't sound good. If it's knocking while running, that isn't a good sign.

Tough to diag online but a trained ear should be able to narrow it down fairly quickly......



Matchmatt...... While you may think its funny I'm sure brianpam doesn't share your sentiment......

Response From nickwarner

sounds like you might be looking at a new motor

02 ford escape xls

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From dukefan465 on 02 ford escape xls

02 ford escape xls.. bought from buy here pay here with 143500 miles. 50/50 90 day warranty for internal engine and transmission only. Well I had about 45 days and oil pump went and ruined the engine, got that replaced with a engine with 68000 miles same year same model (warranty shop says.) So not even 100 miles after I get that engine my check engine light comes on he tells me to go check the code at autozone, it ended up being P0430 the catalytic converter. Warranty guy says yea that's it you need a new one without even looking at my car tells me it'll be 500(not covered in warranty.) My question is
#1 Would he not be able to tell this when running test on the engine he just put in?
#2 Can they tell which catalytic converter it is with not checking? (I know there are 3)
#3 Do you think they are trying to rip me off?

Response From Hammer Time

No, that code is for low efficiency of the bank 2 converter. It's rarely anything but a bad converter. There may be 3 converters but there are only 2 that are monitored. It depends on the layout but you may be buying a "Y" pipe with both of them anyway.

Response From dukefan465

So he wouldn't be able to tell this when he was running tests on the engine he just put in ? Also when I was driving to stop it off at the shop the engine cut off when I was trying to make a turn. Everything went dead and had to place in park cut it off and restart it. The converter would make it do that?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The computer monitors the efficiency of the cats ad apparently it hadn't set the code yet when the engine was changed or no one read it before disconnecting the battery which would have erased it.

I can't tell you much about the price because I don't know what you are buying.

Response From dukefan465

Also is that a good price for the converter and install?

code for jeep liberty

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on code for jeep liberty

2006 jeep liberty, 3.7engine, 87,000miles

check engine light went but now is off.

just pulled code p2098 can anyone tell me what this is.



thanks john

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I had a Chrysler vehicle not long ago with that code that drove me crazy. The first think to look at is the downstream O/2 sensor itself. If the sensor is not the problem, then the exhaust system has to be examined very closely. Chrysler has an internal memo about cracks in the catalytic converter that causes this code. They tend to split right along the seam weld but you have to look very closely and possible pressurize the exhaust system to find it.

Response From Guest

thanks for the replies, where would the downstream o2 sensor be located. also now that the check engine light went off could this have been just a hiccup, or is there a problem.

thanks again guys

Response From Hammer Time

There are no such things as hiccups in computer systems. The problem occurred at one time and will likely occur again.

The sensor in question here is marked #4 in the pic.

Response From Guest

thanks for the very detailed responses
greatly appreciated.....john

Response From Sidom

In a nutshell that is a rear fuel trim lean code.......

That is a 2 trip fault code (meaning the vehicle has to be driven twice under the corrrect conditions to set)

Three passing trips will turn the light off by itself but code will be stored........

my truck is running very rough

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Joe Steadery on my truck is running very rough

I have a 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4.3 V6 (ENG vin code is W )
Ireplaced the CPI and now the truck runs real rough and missfires and hardly moves when in gear as it is missfiring even small backfires when you try to rev it up .

Also after running for a bit the catalytic converter glowed red hot . I replaced the catalytic converter and the #2 oxygen sensor and the spark plugs and it still ran very rough and the converter and the pipe to the muffler still glowed red hot . I didn't replace the #1 O2 sensor in front of the converter should I have replaced it too ? Also after it glowed red do you think that the new #2 O2 sensor and new converter is now bad or can it handle 1 time of being red hot ? Did I ruin the new converter and O2 sensor by running it till it was glowing red hot . The truck also has a fairly new muffler and tail pipe is it possible that it is plugged now do to running with red hot converter . so to recap I have installed a new CPI -Spider fuel Injector assembly and a new Catalytic converter , O2 sensor on downstream side and new spark plugs , air filter and oil too . I checked EGR and its not plugged and plunger moves ok . i checked the cap n rotor and they looked fine . So whats next move ? The truck runs real rough and missfires and hardly moves when put into gear .

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Most of that stuff wan't necessary. the Cat is glowing because of either too rich or too lean of mixture. You really need a scan tool to find out which it is. You could have an internal fuel or vacuum leak.


We were typing at the same time Steve.

Response From steve01832

Great minds think alike Desi. lol

Steve

Response From steve01832

Joe, usually when a converter gets cherry red it is due to an ignition problem, usually. What is going on is there is a lot of unburned fuel going out an exhaust valve and it is being burned in the converter. That's why it cherries up. It is also possible that the vehicle is running excessively rich, or has a bad cylinder.
You may want to start by hooking up a fuel pressure guage. If the pressure is ok, start checking the ignition system. Could be a cracked cap, bad plug, or bad plug wire. I have seen failing ignition modules cause this, but very few and far between. Maybe 3 or 4 times in the 26 years I've been twisting a wrench.

Steve

Engine rough noise when slightly accelerate

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From Bertg on Engine rough noise when slightly accelerate

Hello, I have a 2005 Jeep, Grand Cherokee, Laredo with a 3.7 V6, 110k miles. My engine seems to make a rough sound when I accelerate just a little while driving at normal speeds. It does not do it at while in park, at take off, or at higher speeds. Only with slight press of gas pedal during normal motion. It does not sound like a spark plug (missing) noise. Just a roughness to the engines tone. Does not die out or stall in any way. I don't know where to start to look and can't afford the dealership. Where should I start diagnosing the problem? Any idea what could cause such symptoms?

Response From Bertg

It appears the noise is not completely fixed after all. I can still hear it slightly. The technician said he did not replace the belt but rather he only put it on correctly. It is not as loud as before but I can still hear it. The belt must have had some impact on it but now I don't know on what? As Tom pointed out, the power steering could not have been running backwards as the Dealership mechanic reported to me. The belt only really has one way to be installed. The place is closed for the weekend. Took it to Firestone today and they were at able to help. Told me they Could not hear it - bring it back if I hear it again. Guess I will drive it til it gets louder?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Info or details on who really did what isn't dependable IMO yet. Your bill should have better but some are too brief or in acronyms or codes for what.


If messing with the belt helped when it absolutely would have done this then toss that belt for a known brand bragging it's quiet.


Take my word for it some for no visual apparent reason are noisy to the point you would think something is really wrong. Some will hiss, crackle type sounds or other. The shine on belt and pulleys with any time and use they make some noise.


You can try spraying it on the ribbed side with even water or WD-40 and test right away. It may not but if the belt itself usually should quit and return later.


NAPA belts to me so far all have been quiet. I think both Goodyear and Dayco sell belts specifically to be quiet as well. Who sells what changes so ask at a parts outlet if this is just belt noise and seems to be.


Any have to be the correct size and installed exactly on the pulleys such that all grooves match up and hard to believe no tech found that off or wrong and about don't believe things were spinning backwards. I'm really not sure 100% but doubt you would have PS if it was turning the wrong way! I never tested one or ran into that - ever!


So right now I'm blaming the belt itself. Not certain of your skills but many are NOT that hard but must have that OE diagram. If that is missing and the one I posted is in fact correct print it out.


The belt tensioner could also be erratic with holding tension. You can look up you own parts costs (you'll see wholesale prices if you buy parts yourself not the retail price shops would charge) but get a clue and see different ones available.


Again - this time if that belt on it now is older or if over 20,000 miles or so OR IF YOU HAVE NO CLUE about it then just toss it! You must have a properly working belt or vehicle will not run far - no water pump, PS, alternator but would start and run. Don't drive one that way but is done for quick (minute or so) testing not out on any road.


Again already - I'm saying toss that belt pretty much. It could look and NOT make a peep for a tech and cause you issues and only a new better, one would prove it about now. Keep old one for a while just because,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry for two posts. Here's a pic of a Goodyear belt on one of my own vehicles right now. Have not found a new one yet locally and need another myself. Liked those but Dayco was also fine as said and NAPA. The "specifically quiet" belt DO STRETCH FASTER AND GO OUT OF RANGE OF PROPER SELF ADJUSTMENT SO NEED DOING MORE OFTEN!


This is chump change as things go for having a vehicle.


Pic if it shows or jus search them out for yourself if just an "X" shows...........


Tom

Response From Bertg

Tom, thank you for your advice and wisdom. I will pick up a belt and get it on this week. That surely will be cheaper than what I've already spent : ).
The dealership alone charged me $200 just to turn the belt around. And that's with my Military discount.
I assume it was for the troubleshooting. I'm not sure I want to take it back there. The explanation of the Power Steering pump running in reverse does not seem logical to me now that you pointed it out.
However, looks like something was fixed after the visit. And Firestone was so busy, I felt bad for the technicians having to trouble shoot something like this. They pretty much rushed me out and told me to bring it back if I hear it again. However, this has been a good lesson for me into the world of mechanics. Will keep you posted.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Beating on this because I'm near sure. No such thing as sure via the web vs in person of course. Sorry for the $200 expense which is probably legit for a couple hours but I don't agree with the findings?


OK: Belt is just $28.99 (local AutoZone) made specifically for belt noise and tolerance of slight imperfections in pulleys. Note: I don't work for them at all - buy where you wish. Site is great for pictures of parts and descriptions of them.


Belt alone...........
/
From their bragging points on it........
Features & Benefits
Designed for high mileage multiple-accessory drives, Dayco’s “W” profile belt (patent pending) is the most innovative advancement in multi-rib belt design in over 25 years. Dayco® Poly-Rib® Belts meet or exceed SAE J1459 and SAE J2432 specifications. This Poly-Rib® Belt is another Dayco® product proudly made in the USA.

  • The "W" profile rib has been engineered to conform to slight misalignments, the number one cause for belt noise
  • Aramid noise resistant fibers embedded in the rubber make this belt run quieter in worn or misaligned pulleys
  • No-Noise Advanced Design EPDM rubber compound for quiet extended life
  • Made in the USA

  • ********************************


    That was their comments and I can't be responsible for mistakes or truth of claims.


    I've battles this crap and ONE fresh belt on another something just preventative made noise about 6 miles after new so bad (a family vehicle) I really thought a nasty problem lurked! NO - It was a crumby belt, fit properly, installed properly and just like a joke was made to be noisy on purpose kind of thing. It shut right up with then a NAPA belt. Elusive that time as that ONE did NOT respond to shutting up with even greasing it which is the only that ever was that bad. Noise so bad a car next to you could hear it in traffic so this isn't bullshat.


    Refresh: I've dealt with some as vehicle's age some and miles. Some techs will say replace all the pulleys as they are now too shined up. If they are damaged that's another thing and you should see that.


    More: This crap if it doesn't stay doing it or just pulls attitude and doesn't do it for a tech it will NOT get caught. Forgive them and me if wrong but they had the advantage of being there, I don't. They also (techs) are probably working for that shop that isn't going to let them waste too much time and until busted something shows up are blowing you off. I can't know that either.


    OK: Looooong done with this stuff but still do what I can for only my own. Worked for myself so my rules how long I spent on finding screwy elusive shat like this and wasn't counting the time as it becomes a vendetta to find it and solve it for me. Make a buck wasn't the point - find it and fix it when others failed is a rush but lose your shirt for the time spent uncharged and many my own or family never asked for $$ from them.


    Places can't do this but if you brought that to me now (dang getting older and tired suks) I'd still do about the same thing. Take that right to the parts store with the tools with me and install it right there for this particular one/type. If all the same I was wrong. If nailed problem gone right away. Save old belt and put by your spare tire or something for an emergency if you allowed.


    More again: On the rare side but some bracket holding all the pulleys or loose bolts or even leaking antifreeze not noticed could be in the cards just missed by techs so far. If a recent accident or recent work I would look for that area for a problem.


    Sorry for the total novel and can only hope I'm correct for you. This is an all volunteer site so nothing to gain on my part.


    Your call as always. If you wish to do this job yourself and have some tools I/we are here and can walk you thru it. This exact one I can't see anything too difficult - others can be.


    At worst and we hate to waste parts guessing but if nothing else can be found this risk of $28 bucks isn't a killer and you have a new belt!


    Touche,


    Tom

    Response From Discretesignals

    I'm trying to image how the belt was put on to make the power steering pump turn in reverse. I don't think you would have power steering if the pump rotation was reversed.

    Dodge PS pumps are kind of funny about making noises when they get air in them. Seen Dakotas pull in air through the return side and make funny PS noises. When it is making its noise, look in the reservoir for foaming fluid.

    Also, while you have the belt off, inspect the water pump pulley for play and spin the belt tensioner pulleys and listen for grinding or rough noises.

    Response From Discretesignals

    My advice is to take it to a reputable independent repair shop and have them go for a ride with you. Four ears is better than two sometimes.

    Response From Bertg

    This may be a dumb question but regarding looking for a problem with the exhaust or catalytic converter; you guys mentioned hitting it with my hand or rubber hammer, am I looking for something loose inside when I hit the parts? And should this be done with the vehicle off? I took a mechanic for a ride with me. He told me I needed an engine computer analysis to find out if it is a possible vacuum leak or catalytic convertor. The jeep does not loose any power when I drive it while the rough noise is taking place. Firestone said they can do one during the week for $89. I'm a bit Leary since I have not had much success in the past with diagnostics. I want to try the practical approaches that you gentlemen recommend first. Thanks for helping me.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I wouldn't rely on the computer being too much help in finding a noise.

    Yes, when you bang on the exhaust you are listening for something broken inside and yes it should be done wit the engine off.

    Response From Bertg

    So far no luck. Have taken several mechanics for rides. Can't determine what could cause the engine to sound rough at slow speed with slight acceleration. If I hold the pedal in the spot where the noise occurs it will remain continuous until I release it or speed up. One person said it may be an exhaust leak. Another tells me it may be a vacuum leak, but there is no loss in power so it may be something else. Don't know what to check. The exhaust does not show anything to the naked eye. And wouldn't the exhaust be continuous?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    ? You've had this shown to several mechanics and can't find it! Did you duplicate the noise in front of them?


    Check all intake air parts that they are tight and no cracks or leaks.
    Try (all caution) plugging tail pipe some while it occurs if possible with something like a wet rag to see if it goes away.


    Try wetting belt to see if noise changes or even use WD-40 which won't last and if either make a change chase down belt itself or items in pulley system.


    If pros can't figure this out in person the web isn't going to,


    T

    Response From Bertg

    Update: ended up at the Dealership. turns out the serpentine belt was incorrectly installed causing the power steering pump to run backwards. After a while the noise must have started up for some reason from the steering pump. Seems to be Fixed now.

    Thanks everyone for your efforts to help

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    OK I think? Not sure how that could happen and work at all but it's fixed apparently but doesn't make sense about routing and PS running backwards?


    I'ts done now but here's what I could find for routing. See how impossible it would be for a correct belt size to turn an item backwards and still fit????


    Said quoted same routing 3.7 or 4.7 "Fig. Accessory serpentine belt routing-Jeep 3.7L and 4.7L engines"


    I could understand wrong belt or not on pulley(s) properly but hard to misroute it and run.


    Oh well, hope it's all set,


    T

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    Another possibility is a Catalytic Converter broken internally. You can usually find things like that by giving the exhaust system a sharp jolt with the heel of your hand at various spots.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Of many a common noise that has no ill operational effects is exhaust heat shields or parts to exhaust system. Engine cold even just tap on parts with a rubber hammers front to back on the parts of exhaust especially the shields along the way right to tail pipe and see if that makes it make a noise.


    Some you need parts and some you can fix all depending if you in fact do find one with a somewhat common spot weld of a light shield cover that rusted out. Start there or any loose parts that could be effected by a running engine,


    T