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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Bosal
    Bosal
  • DEC
    DEC
  • Davico Converters
    Davico Converters
  • Eastern Catalytic
    Eastern Catalytic
  • MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
  • Magnaflow
    Magnaflow
  • PaceSetter
    PaceSetter
  • Walker
    Walker

Best Selling Genuine Chevrolet Catalytic Converters

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including PaceSetter, Eastern Catalytic
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Chevrolet Replacement Catalytic Converter Parts
PaceSetter
Qty:
$387.74
PaceSetter Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Not Legal For Sale Or Use On Vehicles Registered In California
  • Direct-Fit Manifold Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Catalytic Converter Air Tube Adapter: Not Air Tube Kit Adaptable
    • Converter Body Size: Oem
    • Core Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Emission: Non-california Or Ny (48-state)
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: Oem
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: Oem
    • Overall Length: Oem
  • PaceSetter is a leading designer and manufacturer of quality-made, affordably-priced headers, exhaust systems and components since 1972. We now offer direct-replacement catalytic converter systems featuring EPA-approved catalytic converters. All are Made In The USA!
Brand: PaceSetter
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Manuf. Code Position Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Chevrolet Malibu LT 4T45-E Front L 4 Cyl 2.4L 145 2384
PaceSetter
Qty:
$387.74
PaceSetter Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Not Legal For Sale Or Use In NY on California Emissions Vehicles
  • Direct-Fit Manifold Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Catalytic Converter Air Tube Adapter: Not Air Tube Kit Adaptable
    • Converter Body Size: Oem
    • Core Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Emission: Non-california Or Ny (48-state)
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: Oem
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: Oem
    • Overall Length: Oem
  • PaceSetter is a leading designer and manufacturer of quality-made, affordably-priced headers, exhaust systems and components since 1972. We now offer direct-replacement catalytic converter systems featuring EPA-approved catalytic converters. All are Made In The USA!
Brand: PaceSetter
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Manuf. Code Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Chevrolet Malibu Classic LS 4T45-E Front L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Federal Emissions; Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chevrolet Corvette V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Rear
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Doors Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chevrolet Blazer 2 4WD Rear V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$72.73
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Chevrolet Lumina APV V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$106.02
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.25" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.25" Id
    • Shape: Large Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chevrolet Venture FWD V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$106.02
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Large Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Chevrolet Impala V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 3490
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Rear
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar; Over 8500 GVW Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Wheel FeedBase Position Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Chevrolet C3500 RWD 155.5 Rear V 8 Cyl 7.4L 454 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$106.02
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • Federal Emissions; Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Large Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Chevrolet Camaro V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$106.02
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • California Emissions Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Large Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Chevrolet Camaro V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Left
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Chevrolet Camaro Left V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$94.42
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.00" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.00" Id
    • Shape: Large Round
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Cobalt L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Center
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Chevrolet Corvette Center V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Right
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar; Under 8500 GVW Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Wheel FeedBase Position Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Chevrolet Express 2500 135.0 Right V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$106.02
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.25" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.25" Id
    • Shape: Large Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Chevrolet Monte Carlo Front V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Eastern Catalytic
2003 Chevrolet S10 Catalytic Converter 6 Cyl 4.3L Eastern Catalytic - DIRECT FIT

P311-37BD87B    50331  New

Qty:
$408.81
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Direct-fit Converter Assembly
  • Undercar; California Emissions Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • DIRECT FIT
  • Product Attributes:
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Iii
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 3 Bolt Spinner
    • Inlet Type B: 3 Bolt Spinner
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2 Bolt Welded
  • Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology also helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices. The proprietary NANO substrate chemistry yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Body Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Chevrolet S10 Automatic Extended Cab Pickup 4WD V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Excluding; ULEV Emissions; Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chevrolet Tahoe V 8 Cyl 4.8L 294 -
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Rear
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Undercar; Except Z71 Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Chevrolet Colorado RWD Rear L 4 Cyl 2.8L 169 2770
Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
$71.99
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO II
  • Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 10"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Shape: Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO II NANO substrate chemistry is designed to be effective on most complex or second-generation on board diagnostics (OBD II) systems and yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Front V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Catalytic Converter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2000 Chevrolet stalls when slowing down to stop

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From westerncj on 2000 Chevrolet stalls when slowing down to stop

I have a 2000 cavalier and it stalls out when i'm slowing down and come to a stop. I had my catalytic converter replaced so that wasn't the problem. My dad drove my car today and said when he came to a stop he slid it into Neutral and it didn't stall out at all on the way to his workplace(2 hours!). Can anyone help?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

90 Camaro RS 3.1

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From JEAN on 90 Camaro RS 3.1

PLEASE HELP MY SON HAS A CHEVROLET CAMARO RS 1990 MODEL 3.1 L
I HAVE REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP FUEL FITLER BRAKING SYSTEM TOTAL OVERHAUL DIFFERENT SENSOR NEW CATALYTIC CONVERTER NEW PLUGS NEW OIL PRESURE SWITCH CHANGE OIL RUN FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER THUR IT AND AIR IDLE CONTROL AND ALL NEW VACUUM LINES
BUT IT STILL DIES AT STOP THEN CRANKS BACK UP RPM GAUGE DONT WORK SPEED GAUGE ACTS CRAZY AND THERE IS BLACK SMOKE COMES FROM THE TAIL PIPE PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT ELSE I CAN DO THE IDLE IS ROUGE TO THANKS

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tom; It shows that you edited this post? Obviously, didn't do a spell check. Some editor!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

LOL - I don't change spelling unless I'm certain it causes confusion OR would state that I change a spelling. That post was tagged on a looooooong thread from some issue with only "exhaust" mentioned as the issue so I moved it to be on it's own as a new thread,


T

No brake fluid coming out of the front brake line fitting

Showing 2 out of 22 Posts | Show 20 Hidden Posts
Question From ratrace2 on No brake fluid coming out of the front brake line fitting

I was trying to bleed the master clyinder on my 1998 Chevrolet(2wd) S-10 LS 2.2L MFI (ABS Kellsy hayes) after a nasty break line "rust through" and nothing comes out.

I reset the combination valve, I have fluid in the master cylinder--although it went dry after a nasty break in the line--and can't get fluid to the back wheels.

Question: on my master cylinder there are two brake lines going to the abs system, if you are looking from the front of the truck to the back, then the front line controls the front breaks and the back line controls the back breaks, right.
A). there is no fluid coming from the front break line when I bleed the master cylinder(mounted on the truck) but there is fluid coming from the back break line. HUM???????

But, I have front brake fluid spurting out when I bleed the front breaks but nothing will come out of the back breaks?????

I'm stuck on this one.

Response From Hammer Time

The best way to do this is with a pressure bleeder. It is possible that when you bottomed out the master due to the leak, that the seals got pushed through some rust and corrosion in the master and tore the seals. That would mean you need a master now. You still may need a pressure bleeder though. I use one all the time and it makes bleeding those systems real easy.

Response From ratrace2

I have tried putting a vacum pump on the right rear bleeder valve and evacuating the whole system, but Nothing comes out--no fluid flow to the back wheels

Response From Hammer Time

You can easily lose one side of the master and not the other.

Vacuum bleeding is not the same as pressure and does not get the same results.

Response From ratrace2

Today I put on a new master cylinder on, all seems to be well at the master cylinder.
But, I still can't get the combination valve to stay open long enough to bleed the back brakes, still don't have any fluid coming out of the back.

I made a custom tool to hold the combination valve open, I'll try to use it tomorrow.

So, who does the pressure bleeding, Dealers, Local guys. . .I have never seen anyone around here do it.

Response From Hammer Time

You shouldn't have to worry about that valve. Try opening the rear bleeder and lightly hold your finger over the end and have someone else slowly pump the pedal continuously. Just don't let it run out of fluid.

Response From ratrace2

I tried to get my friend to pump the pedal easy but that valve just kept slamming shut.

Even when I tried it the combination valve would close, so tomorrow I'm going to use my new (homemade J-39177) tool.

After all of this, how much will it take to get some fluid to the back wheels????

Response From Hammer Time

I do a ton of brake work and I have never in my life had to hold that valve open to bleed. I use a pressure bleeder most of the time and have no problem at all. Have you tried bleeding the ABS unit first?

Response From ratrace2

No, I havent' bleed the abs system at all, you are going to have to tell me about that.

I did, though, find a patch of gravel on the way to the store and stomped on the brakes.
Well, the ABS went on and the brake pedal went to the floor and I thought I was going to hit another car. Wow.
That was fun. I did get a bit better pedal for the terror. It seemed to improve the brakes.

That's what I call a panic bleed..........

Now about that ABS bleed.......................

Response From Hammer Time

Many of them have bleeders right on the unit. I just realized that one does not. I believe it can be bled with a professional scan tool though.

Response From ratrace2

I can buy a small odbII scanner at sears, I was looking to get one anyway.

Any particular one, or reference manuals for the codes......

So, what would the process be.....

Response From Hammer Time

No, no, no...........

I said professional scan tool. That $100 code reader isn't going to do anything. What we are talking about is in the $5,000 to $10,000 range. The software update alone is over $2,000.

Response From ratrace2

I'll be Orlando next week so you can do it......................................

Response From ratrace2 Top Rated Answer

Good news:

Well, this morining I screwed on my homemade J-31977 combination valve bleeder tool and
finally got some brake fluid to the rear wheels. "spurt spurt". . . . . .

Bad news: the brake light came back on......which means that the valve went shut. . . .

I'll bleed it some more. . . .that might get it done.........


Hey, Hammer do those pressure bleeder push the fluid in throught the master cyl....and out the
wheel cyl. . . .is that how they work ???

Thanks Hammer, you are the best man, All of us rookies would be stuck without guys like you..if your shop was
in my neighborhood I would come by and drop a $20 in your pocket for lunch. That's what I do for all my local guys when
I need advice. For example, I gave Courtney at Somerset Transmision a big tip for cueing me into a problem I had with a plugged
catalytic converter. I went to Amaco and they wanted $1600 to replace the transmission. . . .Courtney told me to replace the
fuel filter and then unhook the exhaust system before the catalytic converter. . ..he was right. . . .

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, the pressure bleeder attaches to the master cylinder cap and pushes the fluid through. You just open the bleeders and let it flow until it flows solid and clear. It makes life real easy for a guy like me that works alone in the shop most of the time.

My shop is in the West Palm Beach area, right on the ocean. You certainly don't need to tip me though. We do this voluntarily and when someone like you actually appreciates the help, that's the reason we do this.

Response From ratrace2

ABS on chevy trucks is a $150.00 pressure bleed job at the dealer, and $90.00 at the best local shop.

Now, if a guy had one of these he could do a little repair work on the side for all of his friends.
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-3628.html

And, pay for the tool in about 3 months.

Response From Hammer Time

My snap on will do most of them and I rarely have to use it so I don't think you'll ever make you money back. That dealer is a bit steep there.

You also have to remember that when you bring something into a shop that you already repaired and you need their help to finish it, your lucky if they help you at all. they certainly aren't going to give anything away in that situation. All they want to do is teach you a lesson for trying to fix it yourself in the first place.

Response From ratrace2

Well, I guess things in NJ are a little different.
For example, When I have a transmission problem I always take it out and let Courtney do the rebuild as a bench job, he's fine with that.
Pete, Garden State Truck repair, same thing, bad coil pack, he'll test it and I'll install it.
Vinny, at Hamilton Auto Body, I send him alot of work so he does a little welding for me.
Josh, at My Amigo Towing, if you don't want to do the job, go buy the part and he'll cut a break, "after hours".
Sammy, best brake man in town, neighbors (so I refinish the kitchen set for the wife, new Laquer and Veneer).

The thing is, you can't hound their time and advice and pay no tribute for it.
When they give you a fix and a diagnosis that works--you buy and change out the part and it's your labor--you gotta
go back and buy lunch or dinner on a big job.

It's always worked for me around here. . . I've known these guys for years and they still talk to me.. . . .

Response From Hammer Time

It's a little different when you have a personal relationship with them and have something to offer in return. I rarely know the people that try to do that stuff on me.

Response From ratrace2

Well, I did the fiberglass work on a Ferrari for Hamilton auto body (Vinny), right.
They couldn't do the fiberglas work that I did, no one in NJ does it the way I do. Shit, Enzo couldnt' tell that I had been there!!!!
If I wanted, I could have had Penske's business in NJ for truck hoods. All of their fiberglass work on their trucks.
I know the regional manager in charge of Maintence. Because I could rebuild the nose of this car for $500 when they wanted $3000 for a new nose.
It let Hamilton auto body bring in the quote "low".

Plus, You should try to get guys in your "network" of associations. The Value is tremendous.
For example, you could have 20 guys walking around saying good things about you, "word of mouth" referrals.
You would pay thousands of dollors for that sort of "Public relations" at the media level.

Plus, It looks good when there are 20 guys "buzzing" around a shop and doing stuff.
The place looks "busy", "alive", "Viable."

Personally, Go out and get yourelf 40 guys that can say good things about you. Given these times of low income, and bad employment numbers
you will only benefit from the "social networking" coverage that it will bring you.

IT's a good thing. . . . . .

Response From ratrace2

My unit does have bleeder vales on the front. I read that they require a tool, Like the J-39177
but I don't remember exectly what they were......" remove the three tools" is what the article said.

Response From ratrace2

yea, I read you reply about the master clylinder "bottoming out". That might be the problem but the pedal will hold the front breaks and not bleed down, that pedal is firm.

oxygen sensor 2006 cobalt

Showing 5 out of 10 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Zephex on oxygen sensor 2006 cobalt

I had to replace the catalytic converter on my 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt. It is the LS version not the SS version.

when I took off the old converter, the oxygen sensor was behind the converter. It was between the converter and the exhaust pipe. New converter I installed has 2 holes for sensors. One in the same place as the old one, and then one before the actual converter up near the flex pipe.

the converter installed fine. But I think we may have damaged the o2 sensor during changing. The check engine light came on a few hours after replacing the converter. I looked online for a new sensor and everything I have found shows that the sensor goes into the hole before the converter. If this was the case, why was the o2 sensor after the converter on the original one we replaced?

I guess what I am asking is where does the o2 sensor on my car truly belong? Does it go before the converter or after it? I can plug the other hole using a spark plug or something like that. I just find it odd that the original o2 sensor was behind the converter but everything that I find online shows that it goes before the converter.

I am NOT a mechanic and I am just learning how to work on cars so any help will be appreciated

Response From Zephex

the original converter was cracked up by the flex pipe and it was making it very loud. I bought a replacement part off the internet that was compatible with my car. It fits perfectly and has no issues. The only difference between the original one and the new one is that the new one has holes for two sensors were the original only had holes for one.

when I took the o2 sensor out of the old one which was behind the converter. I put the o2 sensor in the same place on the new one. As for the extra hole all I did was plug it up using a spark plug that fit perfectly. Its only purpose is to seal the hole. My car only uses one sensor. That is why I'm assuming I may have damaged it when I was changing converters. It is not a problem to buy a new one but like I said, it looks like the o2 sensor should be installed in front of the converter. But this wasn't the case on the old one that I took out.

Response From Zephex

the reason I'm saying it should be installed before the converter is because most of the replacement parts that I find online when searching for an oxygen sensor for my car shows it going before the converter. With a very short wire

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

What is the trouble code number?

You should have one O2 sensor screwed into the exhaust manifold before the flange. Then you should have another O2 sensor after the converter. If the pipe on your new converter has a hole before the cat, you need to screw a cap into the hole. You sure there wasn't a cap in the box your new cat came in?

You need to have a sensor after the converter or else you'll get a P0420 code.


Response From Zephex

engine is the 2.4 version. The LS model car.

we did not have to use heat to remove the old sensor but it was hard to get out.it took a lot of work but it finally came out without stripping anything. I don'T no what kind of force it takes to damage a sensor. I don't know if breaking loose from the old converter could have damaged it or not. Below is a link to the converter that I bought for my car.

link deleted ............. not allowed

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I guessed at that engine size. OK - you can test your sensor but beware - put protective underwear on so when/if you sh*t yourself as to how you'll see why you should really get a diagnosis and pay for it. New sensor is about $55 bucks for cheapo AYOR all along. The converter you have may or may not be working? Can't know that from here.


This is what I found published on checking an O2 sensor and equipment required. Do rule out stupid wires first and if you lubed up the thing with all the wrong stuff into new converter it may be the problem too. Tough call.


Have run reading if this shows.............
***********************
ZTest/Replace
Oxygen sensors produce a voltage based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. Large amounts of oxygen result from lean mixtures and result in low voltage output from the O2 sensor. Rich mixtures release lower amounts of oxygen into the exhaust, therefore, the O2 sensor voltage is high. The engine must be at normal operating temperature before the oxygen sensor is tested. Always refer to the specifications supplied by the manufacturer.
Before testing an O2 sensor, refer to the correct wiring diagram to identify the terminals at the sensor. Most late-model engines use heated oxygen sensors (HO2S). These sensors have an internal heater that helps to stabilize the output signals. Most heated oxygen sensors have four wires connected to them. Two are for the heater and the other two are for the sensor.http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/content/how-to/en_US/0996b43f/80/a0/12/15/f28-03.gifUse a wiring diagram to identify the terminals on a heated oxygen sensor. Courtesy of American Honda Motor Co., Inc.WARNING An oxygen sensor must be tested with a digital voltmeter. If an analog meter is used for this purpose, the sensor may be damaged.
Testing With A Digital Mulitmeter

  • Connect the voltmeter between the O2 sensor wire and ground.
  • Backprobe the connector near the O2 sensor to connect the voltmeter to the sensor signal wire. If possible, avoid probing through the insulation to connect a meter to the wire.
  • With the engine idling, the sensor voltage should be cycling from low voltage to high voltage. The signal from most O2 sensors varies between 0 and 1 volt.
  • If the voltage is continually high, the air/fuel ratio may be rich or the sensor may be contaminated by RTV sealant, antifreeze, or lead from leaded gasoline.
  • When the O2 sensor voltage is continually low, the air/fuel ratio may be lean, the sensor may be defective, or the wire between the sensor and the computer may have a high-resistance problem.
  • If the O2 sensor voltage signal remains in a mid-range position, the computer may be in open loop or the sensor may be defective.
  • The sensor can also be tested after it is removed from the exhaust manifold.
  • Connect the voltmeter between the sensor wire and the case of the sensor.
  • Using a propane torch, heat the sensor element. The propane flame keeps the oxygen in the air away from the sensor element, causing the sensor to produce voltage.
  • While the sensor element is in the flame, the voltage should be nearly 1 volt.
  • The voltage should drop to zero immediately when the flame is removed from the sensor.
  • If the sensor does not produce the specified voltage or if the sensor does not quickly respond to the change, it should be replaced.
  • If a defect in the O2 sensor signal wire is suspected, backprobe the sensor signal wire at the computer and connect a digital voltmeter from the signal wire to ground with the engine idling.
  • The difference between the voltage readings at the sensor and at the computer should not exceed the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. A typical specification for voltage drop across the average sensor wire is 0.02 volt.
  • Now check the sensor's ground.
  • With the engine idling, connect the voltmeter from the sensor case to the sensor ground wire on the computer. Typically, the maximum allowable voltage drop across the sensor ground circuit is 0.02 volt.
  • Always use the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. If the voltage drop across the sensor ground exceeds specifications, repair the ground wire or the sensor ground in the exhaust manifold.
  • Most late-model engines are fitted with heated O2 sensors.
  • If the O2 sensor heater is not working, the sensor warm-up time is extended and the computer stays in open loop longer. In this mode, the computer supplies a richer air/fuel ratio. As a result, the engine's emissions are high and its fuel economy is reduced.
  • To test the heater circuit, disconnect the O2 sensor connector and connect a voltmeter between the heater voltage supply wire and ground.
  • With the ignition switch on, 12 volts should be supplied on this wire. If the voltage is less than 12 volts, repair the fuse in this voltage supply wire or the wire itself.
  • With the O2 sensor wire disconnected, connect an ohmmeter across the heater terminals in the sensor connector.
  • If the heater does not have the specified resistance, replace the sensor.

  • Testing With A Scanner
    The output from an O2 sensor should constantly cycle between high and low voltages as the engine is running in closed loop. This cycling is the result of the computer constantly correcting the air/fuel ratio in response to the feedback from the O2 sensor.
    When the O2 sensor reads lean, the computer will enrich the mixture. When the O2 sensor reads rich, the computer will lean the mixture. When the computer does this, it is in control of the air/fuel mixture. Many things can occur to take that control away from the computer. One of them is a faulty O2 sensor.
  • The activity of the sensor can be monitored on a scanner.
  • Watch the scanner while the engine is running.
  • The O2 voltage should move to nearly 1 volt then drop back to close to zero volt.
  • Immediately after it drops, the voltage signal should move back up. This immediate cycling is an important function of an O2 sensor.
  • If the response is slow, the sensor is lazy and should be replaced. With the engine at about 2,500 rpm, the O2 sensor should cycle from high to low ten to forty times in 10 seconds.
  • The voltage readings shown on the scanner are also an indicator of how well the sensor works.
  • When testing the O2 sensor, make sure the sensor is heated and the system is in closed loop.

  • Testing With A Lab Scope http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/content/how-to/en_US/0996b43f/80/a0/12/15/f28-04.jpgCorrect way to connect a lab scope to an oxygen sensor.
  • A faulty O2 sensor can cause many different types of problems.
  • For example, it can cause excessively high HC and CO emissions and all sorts of driveability problems.
  • Most computer systems monitor the activity of the O2 sensor and store a code when the sensor's output is not within the desired range.
  • Again, the normal range is between 0 and 1 volt and the sensor should constantly toggle from close to 0.2 to 0.8 volt, then back to 0.2.
  • http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/content/how-to/en_US/0996b43f/80/a0/12/15/f32-32.gifA good O2 sensor trace. Courtesy of Progressive Diagnostics - WaveFile AutoPro.
  • If the range that the sensor toggles in is within the specifications, the computer will think everything is normal and respond accordingly. This, however, does not mean the sensor is working properly.
  • The voltage signal from an O2 sensor should have two to three cross counts with the engine without a load at 2,000 rpm. A cross count of an O2 sensor is the number of times the waveform moves from a high voltage and back to that voltage.
  • http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/content/how-to/en_US/0996b43f/80/a0/12/15/f32-33.gifO2 sensor signal cross counts. Courtesy of OTC Tool and Equipment, Division of SPX Corporation.
  • If the sensor's voltage toggles between zero volt and 500 millivolts, it is toggling within its normal range but it is not operating normally. It biased low or lean. As a result, the computer will be constantly adding fuel to try to reach the upper limit of the sensor. Something is causing the sensor to be biased lean. If the toggling only occurs at the higher limits of the voltage range, the sensor is biased rich. In either case, the computer does not have true control of the air/fuel mixture because of the faulty O2 signals.
  • The O2 can be biased rich or lean, not work at all, or work too slowly to ensure good emissions and fuel economy.
  • To test the O2 sensor for all of these concerns, use a lab scope. Begin by allowing the engine and O2 sensor to warm up.
  • Insert the hose of a propane enrichment tool into the power brake booster vacuum hose or simply install it into the nozzle of the air cleaner assembly.
  • This will drive the mixture rich. Most good O2 sensors will produce almost 1 volt when driven full rich. The typical specification is at least 800 millivolts.
  • Connect the lab scope to the sensor and a good ground.
  • Set the scope to display the trace at 200 millivolts per division and 500 milliseconds per division.
  • Inject some propane into the air cleaner assembly.
  • Observe the O2 signal's trace. The O2 sensor should show over 800 millivolts. If the voltage doesn't go high, the O2 sensor is bad and should be replaced.
  • Now, remove the propane bottle and cause a vacuum leak by pulling off an intake vacuum hose.
  • Watch the scope to see how the O2 sensor reacts.
  • It should drop to under 175 millivolts. If it doesn't, replace the sensor.
  • These tests check the O2 sensor, not the system, therefore they are reliable O2 sensor checks.
  • Also keep in mind that on an air pump-equipped car, it's a good idea to disable the air pump before doing this test. Unwanted air may bias the results.
  • Observing the trace of an O2 sensor can also help in the diagnosis of other engine performance problems.

  • http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/content/how-to/en_US/0996b43f/80/a0/12/15/f32-34.gifO2 sensor signal caused by an ignition problem. Courtesy of Progressive Diagnostics - WaveFile AutoPro.
    The above figure shows how ignition problems affect the signal from the O2 sensor. Keep in mind that during complete combustion, nearly all of the oxygen in the combustion chamber is combined with the fuel. This means there will be little O2 in the exhaust of a very efficient engine. As combustion becomes more incomplete, the levels of oxygen increase. Ignition problems cause incomplete combustion and there is much oxygen in the exhaust. This is also true of lean mixtures, over-advanced ignition timing, or anything else that causes incomplete combustion.
    When the mixture is rich, combustion has a better chance of being complete. Therefore, the oxygen levels in the exhaust decrease. The O2 sensor output will respond to the low oxygen with a high voltage signal.http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/content/how-to/en_US/0996b43f/80/a0/12/15/f32-35.gifO2 sensor signal caused by defective fuel injector. Reproduced with permission from Fluke Corporation.
    Remember that the PCM will always try to do the opposite of what it receives from the O2 sensor. When the O2 shows lean, the PCM goes rich, and vice versa. When a lean exhaust signal is not caused by an air/fuel problem, the PCM does not know what the true cause is and will enrich the mixture in response to the signal. This may make the engine run worse than it did.
    *********************************
    Exact specs for your exact car and OE part could be all different,


    T

    Response From Zephex

    ok, that makes some sense then. I would not have had to touch the upstream sensor to take the old converter out if it is not on the converter itself. So really the only thing that can be throwing the engine light would be us damaging the o2 sensor when we took it out, or the converter is just a piece of crap. I have ordered something to let me read the codes on the car. I didn't have anything like that but it is on the way now. Hopefully it will shed a little light on the situation.

    will the code tell me if the sensor is bad or not? How will I know if it is the sensor or the converter itself?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Give me/us some info please! What engine! Forget owning your own code reader as this should be a free read for just this at many parts outlets should say which sensor has the problem if not find one that will.


    Pre converter is critical at how the engine runs as said and make adjustments to how engine runs so it's both clean and fuel efficient with the most performance.


    I worry about aftermarket or worse internet shopping for much of anything and converters have plain expensive metals used so room for some cheating a little or a lot which is why OE is suggested even at the choking costs.


    At least do a visual on all wires and connections again if not already. Long done with this stuff unless I have to but one of my own has four and the dang wires going into sensors were rusting the cap ends off the sensors so did them all for that not that they didn't work otherwise.


    If you needed to use heat to remove old sensor it no doubt killed it,


    T

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    OK - There's an unpstream O2 sensor somewhere BEFORE converter listed - just looked. That one or two if two as I need engine size to find the exact layout does matter on how it runs. Downstream sensor is taking note if exhaust is in fact all set AFTER the converter but doesn't change settings for how engine runs like fuel mix and more.


    Plugging hose not needed is fine. You really should get some real code readings and can test some O2 sensors and the wires that go to them are trouble too but codes will not say what is wrong just a circuit showing the fault.


    This aftermarket junk may not even be working properly already - can't know. Converters are expensive and more expensive to get the OE ones. Apparently the connectors are popular for this car and may not need a sensor at all. Shows one of a couple possible.........
    /
    ^^ Pic may not show?


    Get much better code reading and a diagnosis of where the problem is right now,


    T

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    ? Why did you install a part that wasn't the same or exact at all? What was wrong to begin with as it's too early for a converter IMO unless damaged.


    Also what did you do with the other extra hole? If your old O2 sensor fit in fine and same code or one for that sensor BEHIND converter and it still runs well you probably did harm the other.


    There's another before the converter somewhere but may not be right there. Generic and aftermarket parts it sounds like are not good for this stuff IMO.


    If it runs well and only code for that sensor BEHIND converter you probably didn't need it yet but can't know that,


    T

    Car has a hard time starting

    Showing 3 out of 17 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
    Question From megatalker93 on Car has a hard time starting

    I have a 1994 Chevrolet Beretta with a 2.2l engine. Ever since I bought the car 4 months ago I've had a hard time getting it to start with the engine cold. It doesn't matter what kind of day it is if the engine hasn't been run for more than 3 hours it will have a hard time starting. It's even worse on wet days, but it will start. To get it to start I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor for about 10 seconds and then it will finally start and the engine will stutter for about a minute while it's jumping around in the engine compartment. After that it chills out and runs like brand new. I don't really know what to think about it. As far as engine repairs I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, catalytic converter, head gasket, and it has new spark plugs and the right 5W-30 oil in it. What could be causing this issue? Before I bought the car the previous owners let it sit outside for a couple years so I don't know what could have possibly gone wrong in that time. This is truly irritating and I'm afraid that it will just fail to start one day. Could it be something electronic or would it have something to do with the fuel system? Any suggestions? I have a very limited supply of money so I can't be spending a ton on having it tested at a dealer or anything.

    Response From mikesheldon

    I think the is still a problem with your fuel pump or spark plug .This is normal problem which any car faces after 5-6 years. If the cars will not get any fuel before igniotiuon the cars will not start and also look out the moisture on the spark plug because it also causes major ignition problems.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I think the is still a problem with your fuel pump or spark plug .This is normal problem which any car faces after 5-6 years. If the cars will not get any fuel before igniotiuon the cars will not start and also look out the moisture on the spark plug because it also causes major ignition problems.

    This will be the third time I have asked you to refrain from giving advice on subjects you have no knowledge in.

    Response From megatalker93

    ok, well does anybody have some REAL advice about this? I want to fix the car before everything is replaced in it. Is there any sensors I should replace or does someone recommend a cheap additive for gas that I can use to clean the engine out or something? I know for a fact that the intake on that car is pretty dirty due to the previous owner running it without an air filter, but after running several cans of injector cleaner through it and cleaning all the sensors I thought I'd be ok.

    Response From Hammer Time

    There is no such thing as "Mechanic in a Can". You can't fix a problem with additives. Most of them are just snake oil and many do more harm than good. Injector cleaner is fine as a preventative but nothing but a profession pressure cleaning is going to clean a dirty injector. I would start out checking the fuel pressure in the morning while your trying to start it. Being even a little low would give you symptoms like that. A bad vacuum leak will too.

    Response From megatalker93

    It does it any time of the day... even when I drove it to South Dakota and it sat in the sun all day in 102 degree weather when I went to start it in the afternoon after not running for 4 hours it does the same thing... rough idle for about 20-30 seconds then it levels out and runs perfectly.

    Response From Hammer Time

    It doesn't matter, same answer

    You may end up having dirty injectors as you suspect but you have to see what the fuel pressure is during the failure first.

    Response From megatalker93

    I checked the fuel pressure... it's fine... it actually doesn't change between when the engine is stuttering and when it's running like it should. As far as vacuum leaks, what is the best way to check for them? I know I have a good vacuum on every one of the lines, but if there is a small vacuum leak how could I find it? Are you sure that none of the sensors could cause something like this?

    Response From Hammer Time

    What is the fuel pressure?

    Response From megatalker93

    I checked it where it said to check it in the Chilton book and it was about 8.5psi and the Chilton book said between 7-9psi for that engine... so I would assume I'm good? It is a brand new pump and filter so I would assume it's ok...

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    No way..........
    The spec for that engine is 40.5 to 47.0 psi (key on, engine off) 3 to 10 PSI less when running.

    Response From megatalker93

    That's what the Chilton book said... at least where I was supposed to be checking it... It's a low pressure system. That's even what the specs said on the original fuel pump when I pulled it out. Unless I'm supposed to check it inside the engine at the injectors or something that's what it says.

    Response From megatalker93

    I've decided I'm just going to live with it... I'm sick of replacing things that don't need to be replaced! I've been dealing with this issue since I bought the car last November I'm sure I can deal with it until it completely dies. Obviously NOBODY knows what's wrong with it and I have a VERY limited supply of money to even bother to try and figure it out.

    Response From Hammer Time

    No, if you gave me the right info on the car, then I gave you the right fuel pressure spec. Low pressure systems are for TBI systems. Your engine should be ported injection as determined by it having 4 injectors.

    Response From nickwarner

    You say you replaced the plugs, but no mention of wires. They might be a problem. When you pull them off look for rust on the coil pack terminals. When the boots of the wires get bad they allow moisture to get at the terminals and the rust will give you a bad spark quality.

    Response From megatalker93

    I checked the wires over when I replaced the head gasket. Everything looked good. As far as this car goes there's very little rust or corrosion on anything really. I was reading online and was wondering if there was a sensor or something that could be bad. There were a few mentions of a MAP sensor and an Oxygen sensor. Any ideas?

    Response From megatalker93

    I replaced the wires again, just to be safe. The car now starts well on wet days, but still has trouble if it's been sitting for awhile. The engine will start just fine, but it'll stutter for about 20 seconds as if it wants to die. The same thing happens if I start it and only let it run for a minute or so, then start it again. The engine will stutter and then die causing me to have to restart it. At that point it won't start unless I press the gas pedal all the way to the floor. I read somewhere online that this could have something to do with leaky injectors or injector o-rings... Is there a way to diagnose that without pulling off the fuel rail?