Shop Nissan Camshaft Position Sensors

2003 nissan altima 2.5 liter 180000 miles the car after going somewhere has twice this last week not started it cranks but will not start as if the fuel pump is bad i listened for the fuel pump to come on when the key is turned but can hear nothing then after sitting for a night the car starts

had the car checked today cause the service engine soon light was on the test said the camshaft position sensor circuit would this also cause the intermittent starting problem?

Ok, I have a 2005 Nissan Altima that is throwing the codes P0420/P0300.

What happens is when you try to start the car while its cold (or hasn't been running in a while) it doesn't want to start. It takes about 4 to 5 turns of the key to get the baby to fire up. Once its started, it runs great.. and if I turn it off and turn it back on within a few mins of it being on it fires right back up with no misfire.

I'm thinking it's either a spark plug, spark plug wire, or a sensor.


What do you guys think?

I think its the Camshaft Position Sensor.. I'm going to replace it and we will see if it fixes it.

So over the last month or so my truck (2002 Nissan Frontier 3.3l V6 XE Not Supercharged) has been running a little bit weak .. id say more noticable on hills , and shifting a little rougher id say. Anyway i was going up a small slope and heard a pop, something like a backfire or something. Kinda like fuel was cut off or something similar. Well i tried to start it and it turned over just fine but wouldnt start. So I plug my obd2 in and get P0340 which is camshaft position sensor A-Bank 1 circuit malfunction. Anyway from what ive read could be a handful of things such as fuse, distributor, crankshaft position sensor etc. Well i was just wondering how i could further diagnose the situation or if any of you had a better idea of what it could be from the information given.

Sounds like you are dealing with a no start. The 1st step would be to get a spark tester and verify a no spark condition... From what you've post it probably doesn't have spark but I've been bitten before by assuming.

The cmp sensor is part of the dist. Off the top of my head I can't think of any real easy DIY test to confirm this. Most of the stuff takes a scope.
What you could do would be take the inside covers off & look at the sensor wheel real good. These have a problem with oil leaking in them and coils shorting. If that wheel gets any kind of dirt or oil on it, it can create some real problems... The coil is buried pretty good, so it's hard to see but get in try an see if you can see any burning or aching spots..... If you find any problems I wouldn't mess around rebuilding it I would change out the whole assembly....

Damn I had a great picture of an arcing coil on one of those I got with my boroscope......Apparently I deleted it when I was cleaning the folder up.... This happens everything I delete stuff I figure has no real value and I won't need anymore.............

Between the combo of a bad memory and a habit of having multiple folders for the same items I feel is "important", apparently the image didn't get deleted...

This is a coil mounting bolt, while most aren't this obvious this is typical for these. It was deep in the dist so it would need to be disassembled if a scope was available....

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Hello,
I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima GXE and there's something I'm not doing right. Here's what I did, in order:

1. $85 Diagnostic at the Nissan Dealership
-Autozone said they DID NOT have the equipment to test since it was a '95. It popped four codes(I STRONGLY recommend CHECKING connectors and wires first with a voltmeter, ohmmeter, etc... continuity and power coming from the source and going to the proper destinations and the right amount of it or having these checked by a qualified mechanic), like an idiot I did not have this done nor did I do the previous tests which I'm kicking myself for now! Also, checked for vacuum hose leaks and couldn't find a single one. Back to the codes, the first one being the

2. MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR-not hard to change out but we had a friends mechanic swap it out with a new one because I'd never done this nor did I have the Chiltons. Sensor ran me $261 with a $40 core. This DID NOT fix the issue.

3. Also popped codes for both Crankshaft Position Sensors(POS and (REF)) so I located via Chiltons manual bought both for fairly cheap one for $25 and the other about $90. Funds are just about dry and this DID NOT fix the issue.
What my wife noticed was if the air conditioning was off it ran fine! But if she turned the air on it would bog out if she floored it so she let off and eased it and it got to about 2000 to 2500 RPMs and as she stayed on the pedal it would lose power and begin to do this constant revving but wouldn't pass 2500 RPMs. Upon pushing the accelerator further it made a very low tone and almost hollow exhaust sound, lost RPMs and stalled. The only way to make it start and not die immediately is to turn the key completely off for about five seconds and then it will start and run but continue to do the same thing every time unless the air conditioning is off. Is it the Oxygen sensor? Temp control sensor? No other codes were thrown except for a P0732 which is a transmission code. The Transmission is strong and doesn't leak. The car doesn't leak anything. Just condensation from the air conditioning but that's normal. I haven't replaced the fuel pump or fuel filter yet. I also haven't replaced the camshaft position sensor or tested the amount of signal passing through the wires.

So I guess my questions are;

1. After spending $350 in sensors, why the revving while driving at normal speeds and some times during idle with the air conditioning on and then the stalling? This also happens when it bogs out upon pressing the accelerator while in park. I don't get it.

Please help me my pockets are empty and I'm out of ideas. The engine light did go off and I have performed the lengthy diagnostic process with the overdrive light and went through every gear. They all checked out and I don't know what to do. Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thank you and regards,

Sounds like it's time to have it diagnosed properly and stop just throwing parts at it. Having a code related to a certain component does not mean to change that component. It gives you specific info concerning the circuit and that has to be troubleshooted to determine the real cause.