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Prenco
2001 Kia Sportage Engine Camshaft Position Sensor Prenco

P311-394D192    W0133-1905198  New

Qty:
$102.31
Prenco Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: Prenco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Kia Sportage
WSO
2003 Kia Magentis Engine Camshaft Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.4L WSO

P311-1ECCB14    W0133-1849580  New

Qty:
$33.40
WSO Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Kia Magentis L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Prenco
2004 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.4L Prenco

P311-16959CB    W0133-1849580  New

Qty:
$70.08
Prenco Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: Prenco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Kia Optima L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
WSO
2006 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor WSO

P311-1ECCB14    W0133-1849580  New

Qty:
$33.40
WSO Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Production: -09/30/2005
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Prod. Date Range
2006 - Kia Optima 6 To:09-30-05
Prenco
2006 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor Prenco

P311-16959CB    W0133-1849580  New

Qty:
$70.08
Prenco Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Production: -09/30/2005
Brand: Prenco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Prod. Date Range
2006 - Kia Optima 6 To:09-30-05
WSO
2007 Kia Amanti Engine Camshaft Position Sensor WSO

P311-23992F0    W0133-1780756  New

Qty:
$48.08
WSO Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Kia Amanti
Mando
2004 Kia Sorento Engine Camshaft Position Sensor Mando

P311-5081CB0    W0133-1924879  New

Qty:
$94.91
Mando Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Kia Sorento
Standard Motor Products
2006 Kia Sorento Engine Camshaft Position Sensor Standard Motor Products

P311-30B5CD7    W0133-1924879  New

Qty:
$117.73
Standard Motor Products Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: Standard Motor Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Kia Sorento
WSO
2008 Kia Sportage Engine Camshaft Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.0L WSO

P311-51448F4    W0133-1904393  New

Qty:
$37.40
WSO Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975
Original Equipment
2016 Kia Forte Engine Camshaft Position Sensor Original Equipment

P311-1E34CC3    W0133-1904393  New

Qty:
$73.22
Original Equipment Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Kia Forte
WSO
2009 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.4L WSO

P311-10B34F7    W0133-1849829  New

Qty:
$41.16
WSO Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Kia Optima L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359
WSO
2006 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor WSO

P311-10B34F7    W0133-1849829  New

Qty:
$41.16
WSO Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Production: 10/01/2005-
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Prod. Date Range
2006 - Kia Optima 3 Fr:10-01-05
WSO
2003 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 2.7L WSO

P311-53CEB1E    W0133-1649797  New

Qty:
$47.75
WSO Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Kia Optima V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2656
Vemo
2003 Kia Magentis Engine Camshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 2.7L Vemo

P311-54C4280    W0133-1649797  New

Qty:
$60.88
Vemo Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Kia Magentis V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2700
Prenco
2005 Kia Magentis Engine Camshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 2.7L Prenco

P311-0F518C1    W0133-1649797  New

Qty:
$78.75
Prenco Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
Brand: Prenco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Kia Magentis V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2656
Genuine
2002 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor 6 Cyl 2.7L Genuine

P311-048F511    W0133-1649797  New

Qty:
$176.43
Genuine Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Kia Optima V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2656
WSO
2006 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor WSO

P311-53CEB1E    W0133-1649797  New

Qty:
$47.75
WSO Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Production: -09/30/2005
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Prod. Date Range
2006 - Kia Optima 8 To:09-30-05
Vemo
2006 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor Vemo

P311-54C4280    W0133-1649797  New

Qty:
$60.88
Vemo Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Production: -09/30/2005
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Prod. Date Range
2006 - Kia Optima 8 To:09-30-05
Prenco
2006 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor Prenco

P311-0F518C1    W0133-1649797  New

Qty:
$78.75
Prenco Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • ; Production: -09/30/2005
Brand: Prenco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Prod. Date Range
2006 - Kia Optima 8 To:09-30-05
Genuine
2006 Kia Optima Engine Camshaft Position Sensor Genuine

P311-048F511    W0133-1649797  New

Qty:
$176.43
Genuine Engine Camshaft Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -09/30/2005
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Prod. Date Range
2006 - Kia Optima 8 To:09-30-05

Latest Kia Repair and Camshaft Position Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

camshaft position sensor connector issue

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From mhardenbrook on camshaft position sensor connector issue

2004 Kia Optima LX
2.4 Litre engine
54,000 miles

Replaced the Camshaft position sensor and noticed the connector that plugs into the sensor from the wiring harness was busted.

Vibration of the engine seems to cause a disconnect, the engine shuts down, throws the P0340 code.

I've been told the connector can not be purchased independent of the entire wiring harness ($800)

At the present time I have zip ties holding it together with electrical tape over the entire connection.

I never know when this is going to shimmy loose and shut down the engine.

Does anyone have any idea how I can either fix this or replace the connector?

I've checked the junk yards, no luck.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Best advise i have without seeing its location it to clue it in place. I have done this several times in the past at customers request rather that replacing costly harnesses. I usually use silicone. But glue type is your choice. It will be a bit getto either way. Good luck

Response From re-tired

This is the KIA p/n for the replacement connector and pigtail. Dealer has to order from mfg.

TKL04A0500

Response From Sidom

Ok RT..............Who your connection on the OE connectors????

We can do this the easy way or the hard way......

The hard way would involve me throwin myself on the ground kickin & screamin until you are so sick of it you tell me..........

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

I could tell you BUT........... Actually I'm having a very bad back week.Lately it goes out more than me . SOOOOOOOOO I have nothing better to do than surf. SIGH............ I usta be very good at the real thing. SURF'S UP DUDE. KNARLY

Response From Jeff Norfolk

I will be contacting you RT next time I am in need instead of useing my trusty "opps I broke it" tool.

Kia wil not turn over...

Showing 3 out of 19 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From gdaryl333 on Kia wil not turn over...

2002
Kia
Spectra
1.8l 4 cyc.
150350 miles

I was driving on the highway when I felt loss of power in the engine. The car started to slow down, I pressed on the gas pedal and the car did not pick up speed. The car coasted to a stop. I tried to restart the car and it will not turn over. There is power, the electrical is working.

Response From Hammer Time

It sounds like the engine may have seized. Did you check the oil and coolant levels?

Response From gdaryl333

OK checked the levels of the coolant and the oil. The oil was a little low but still within reason according to the dipstick.

Tried to start again. The engine sounds like it is trying but not getting gas. I know this opens up more possiblities. Fuel pump, sensor. Maybe head gasket? I have checked the fuses for the fuel pump and they check out ok.

I am a do it yourselfer, I just hate taking the car to someplace and costing me $$$$, when it is something that I can change.

Response From Hammer Time

This is quite different from what you first described.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From gdaryl333

Ok. Sorry. I had a OBD2 code reader and these are the codes that came up.

P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1

P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor)

P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Persormance

Do not know if this will help or not. I will try to look at what you asked.
Thank you for your help.

Response From Sidom

Your car uses the CMP to determine #1. Without it the comp will try to guess #1 and usually doesn't do to good of a job. If you don't have a scope you can check the wires, verify your 5v ref, good ground & signal return is good back to the comp, if all checks out you are probably looking at a bad CMP.

The nice thing about Kia is their tech site it totally free. info, TSBs everything..... Thats is one of the things I like about Kia & Hyundia, what other makers charge for, they give away for free. .kiatechinfo.com. (don't forget the Ws) you do have to register but that's it

Response From gdaryl333

ok, thanks. Went and got a new timing belt, going to put it on today... Thanks for the link. I had it the other day and forgot....

Response From gdaryl333

Well, I changed the timing belt and it was messed up....

Tried to start my Kia, but nothing....

Sad news, I think the piston is bad.........Well I know its Bad.....

Now I get to take apart the engine and rebuild it...

Does anyone knows where to get the pistons from besides the dealership?

Thanks for all the help... Wish me LUCK.....

Response From Hammer Time

Why piston?
Timing belts damage the valves, not the pistons.

Response From gdaryl333

Yes could be the valves...
Only one way for me to know. I will be taking it apart to see, starting with the valves first ofcouse.
Going to check them. But if the piston went bad first it would mess up the timing belt. The only part of the timing belt that was messed up was the part by the camshaft.
Still it will be a process..

Response From Hammer Time

If it goes out of time while the engine is running, the piston hits the valves and bends the head over. The piston usually survives though.

Response From gdaryl333

That would be nice. Still bad but workable.

Getting down in with the camshaft worries me....

valves I can do..

Response From gdaryl333

Well bad news. One of the valves broke and put a hole in the piston. I know I should have checked the valves before trying to start it, after putting on the new timing belt. I was just hoping that was all that was wrong.
Now going to replace the engine. (I love my Kia)
Found some engines at some salvage yards, ranging from $400 to $700. Then add shipping if they are to far to go and pick-up.
I know its taking me time to do all this but I am only able to work on the weekends. Well better get back to it. Will keep posted on anything else.

Response From Sidom

Thats too bad..... With used motors. 1st make sure you can turn it over by hand with no weird noises before you even think about taking it home. I would really advise against getting a used motor shipped, you want to be able to look at it before you buy it. After you get it home take off the v/c & oil pan and take a look to make sure everything looks good and there are no huge sludge build ups, skirts look good, etc........Good time to be replacing gaskets & seals if it's good to install

Even if local is a few hundred more, it the long run it may wind up being cheaper.....


Just out of curiosity, how did you verify there was a hole in the piston?

Response From gdaryl333

Thanks for the advice Sidom...

After changing the timing belt it did the same thing when I tried to start it. From some advice from others, it could be the valves. I was hoping it was just a bent or warped valve. I took off the cylinder head to take a look and OMG.

Anyhow, there is a place not to far from here. I will go and check it out and follow your advice. Is there anything else I need to be on the lookout for?

Response From Sidom


I took off the cylinder head to take a look and OMG.



Well that pretty much confirms it........

No, other than just looking it over, make sure there is no broken bolts, brackets, that kinda stuff. If there is any harness on it, they don't look hacked. That just gives you a little insight to what it's been thru but it would still be a good idea to switch your harnesses over. No idea how long it's been sitting out in the elements....

When you turn it over, make sure the plugs are in it so you can feel the compression. A few turns in the yard won't be too bad but after that I would definitely get some oil in the cylinders before turning it over any more.........

Maybe if anyone else has some good tricks I haven't thought of they will pop in.........

Response From Sidom

Bad deal.... You might want to price new & low mileage used motors...... You're gonna need valves to if you have a hole in your piston. Are you sure it's a bad piston & not just a bent valve?

Response From gdaryl333 Top Rated Answer

Ok so I changed the spark plugs.
Checked the timing belt.
Have not checked for compression.
Have not checked for fuel getting in.

When I turn the key. The engine sounds like it wants to start. I can here the fuel pump(I think its the fuel pump) making a noise, not sure if it is working.
Besides checking for compression and for fuel getting in, would the engine almost turn over IF I threw a rod. Or will it not turn over at all.

I reset the computer. Turned the key and this is the code that came up. P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor)

Response From ABoismenu

CMP sensor will cause extended cranking(will take a long time to turn over let it crank for about 15 seconds see if that works) Without a cam signal your computer wont be able to acquire firing order and i'm pretty sure it will use CKP sensor as a back up. If you threw a connecting rod i'm sure you'd hear it when cranking. If you meant push rod your engine is DOHC and has no push rods. I had a cavalier that did about the same thing. Heard the fuel pump but volume test failed. Good way i tested for this problem was turn the key to the on position for two or three seconds then off repeat about three times before trying to start the engine. Let the fuel build pressure then try starting if it starts then sputters off i'd imagine its a fuel pump. Or if you have the tools just do a volume test a good pump should pump about one qt. in 30 sec.

2008 Sedona- Do I really need a brand new ECM?

Showing 4 out of 8 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From kj26569 on 2008 Sedona- Do I really need a brand new ECM?

I have a 2008 Kia Sedona (3.8 V6) with the following trouble codes: P0018, P0300, P0302, P0304

I have replaced the coils and plugs, a torn air intake hose, and a camshaft position sensor for the side of the engine with even numbered cylinders.

It still runs rough has a blinking CEL, and gives the same codes.

I found that unplugging any of the myriad of sensors under the hood will keep the ECM in open loop so that it runs like a dream, but as soon as they are plugged back it, the trouble comes back. I used that fact to my advantage to drive the car to the mechanic a few miles away.

After running diagnostics, he says the ECM is bad based on the fact that the number 2 and number 4 fuel injectors stop pulsing after a couple minutes of idling. He says they are not even getting a signal from the ECM. He does not have the equipment necessary to flash a new ECM and recommends going to the dealership for a new one and getting it flashed there.

After contacting the dealership, I have found a new ECM is around $1000-$1500 depending on my VIN (didn't have that handy since the car is not with me). I asked about a used one. He says that won't work because once an ECM is flashed with a VIN, it can't be changed.

Given the rather large amount of used ECMs I found on the market for my vehicle, I find such a statement a little odd. I think the dealer is shoveling some BS in order to sell a part at a handsome markup along with labor.

My question is, if I am being lied to, what do I need in terms of equipment to get a used ECM, install it and flash it with my VIN myself? If such equipment is cost prohibitive, can I contact one of these companies that sells ECMs and have them send me one preprogrammed with my VIN?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If this vehicle's PCM senses too many misfires on a particular cylinder(s), it will disable the injectors (stop commanding) on that cylinder(s) to protect the catalyst. Important to know that when diagnosing a misfire issue on newer vehicles, so you don't go replacing something that isn't the fault. Asian PCMs are pretty robust.

I highly doubt your PCM is the problem. One way to know if the PCM is in fuel cut mode to protect the catalyst is to shut of the engine, restart the engine, and see if injector command is back. You better let your mechanic know that.


You really need to have your mechanic focus on why p0018 is popping up. Your mechanic should check out TSB KT2009050801.

http://www.autocodes.com/uploads/kia/kia-cvvt.pdf

Response From kj26569

I found the KIA service bulletin about the variable timing solenoid and decided to check that and the injectors.

Got the van back this afternoon. Checked the injectors. All checked out good.

Pulled the variable timing control valve and found my problem.

After wrestling it to get it out without removing the plenum (a major plus), I found that the screen on it was damaged and part of it had found its way into the holes which kept the piston in the solenoid valve from closing all the way or opening any further. After calling the parts store for a new one, I decided to remove the screen completely and get the jammed part of the screen out and clean up the part.

Once it was cleaned up, I worked the piston back and forth a little and found that it would open up better but still couldn't quite close all the way. Another wrestling match with the van ensued to get the part back in. Once I put the van back together, it started up fine with no issues. I could tell from the way it started up, I had found the issue. It just didn't sound right before, almost too loud in a way. Anyway, it ran smoothly, I drove it a few miles and took it with me to buy some groceries when I got it home, the CEL came on again, but it is still running well.

No more p0018, new codes this time. P0022 which directly relates to the variable valve timing. Found out that it means the timing was being retarded too much, probably from a constant oil flow condition. No surprise, the solenoid I put back in is probably not closing all the way. The new one will fix that.

P0456- Evap system, small leak. I'm not sure about that one. I retightened the gas cap and hope that it might have been loose for now. I'm fixing the major issue first, resetting it, and seeing if the code comes back. Hoping it doesn't, but if it does, I will have to start checking the evap system for leaks.

Response From Discretesignals

Good to see that you got it figured out. Thank goodness money and time wasn't wasted on chasing a PCM. 2 and 4 are on the same bank your P0018 was showing up. Checking the OCV was a good call on your part.

Inspect your fuel cap seal. If you can smell strong fuel vapors around the cap when it is tightened down, it could be just a bad cap. Make sure it isn't cracked or deformed. Inspect the filler neck flange where the cap seal rides for rust or other damage and all the other EVAP hoses/pipes and connections. It may come down to using a smoke machine to find the EVAP leak. Small leaks can be tough to find.

Closing this thread. If you still have issues with the EVAP system, start up a new thread. Thanks for the follow up.

Response From Hammer Time

Some makes of ECMs can be reflashed and some cannot so the dealer may be telling you the truth. I don't know about that one in particular.

The equipment needed to flash the PCM starts at about $10K so I don't think you'll be doing it yourself.

Most PCMs cannot be flashed out of the car due to the security system so you may not be able to buy one already flashed.

Response From kev2

here is what caught my eye......" in open loop (so that) it runs like a dream" yet in closed loop "injectors stop pulsing after a couple minutes of idling. " and concludes the PCM is bad???
You should find another technician to assist in this repair.
A professional scanner as well as someone to 'read' and analyze that information will be key.

Response From kj26569

Thanks. I did some more digging and started reading about how it could be the fuel injector or the oil control vale in this case. Kia actually put a service bulletin out about the oil control valve. I am definitely checking those before I decide it is a computer issue.

I never could find a manual for the Sedona, but I have one for my Santa Fe and the part is the same. I will consult it about testing the injectors.

Response From kev2

Without the proper tool a SCANNER with what we call live data
try this-- A DIYer easy diagnostic 123,
check oil. add I bottle of "risolone" oil detergent.
Check fuel pressure then with KOEO observe fuel pressure drop. Might be easier said than done, not sure KIA has a Schrader valve.
How do plugs on #2 and #4 look - WET dry BLACK tan? Confirm where are #2 and #4 cylinders on this engine ?
Do that and we will go on to next step.