Shop Discount Cabin Air Filters

It doesn't have one.


This Article has been updated by bulletin #PIT3330, dated December 22, 2004.

Condition/Concern: A customer may inquire about the availability of the passenger compartment air filter.

Recommendation/Instructions: Starting in 2003 model year, the passenger compartment air filter is no longer available as a factory option. With the redesigned HVAC case, there is no longer a cavity for the filter. The GM parts catalog indicates there is a replacement filter available; however, there is no provision for it.

Thanks Tom. Yeah I'd actually seen that video in my quest to find my air filter, that's what led me here.

Is it possible for a car not to have one? Wouldn't that cause damage to the a/c (not to mention lungs)?

If it helps, I'm in Australia, is it possible the setup is different for over here?

There's a few things about this car that have thrown me and I never thought something as simple as cabin air filter would be on that list.

After spending a while looking at it, I've come to the conclusion there really isn't anything that can actually be accessed other than those two clips on the first photo (but I'm sure there's a lot more to do to get into that) or the 5 screws on what I suspected might be the air filter. I really don't see where else it could go. Is there any harm in undoing those 5 screws or am I potentially opening up a whole new can of worms?

And thanks, the hose has been reconnected. I have no idea why it's off but it must have been that way for a while.

Yes - We've suggested earlier that is might not have one at all.
Damage to lungs!? Not unless you put some harsh chemical something intentionally in the thing.


Other consideration: Now you said AU as a location and if car is likely "right hand drive" the heater box is totally different than cars made left hand drive but not necessarily a 100% mirror image of the other.


Another thought is I think you said air flows thru this system just fine now - right? If so even it does have a filter it still should be working enough. I think the first issue would be lousy air flow or possibly too much odd behavior from A/C vent temps and flow.


IDK - perhaps a dealer with the VIN# ready could prove it does or doesn't have one. Again, it can't be altering the air content of gasses just removing/catching particulates such as dust and pollens.


Country of original destination of a vehicle really matters with what it will be equipped with or mandatory to have to be sold there and varies wildly depending on where. Car makers aren't stupid either and won't offer things that cost a fortune if not in high demand and or expensive to include by regulations,


T

Yeah it's right hand drive, and the air flow is completely normal. The only reason I'm pretty keen to get to the air filter (if there is one) is that the car has had a musty smell since the day I bought it. After a while I realised it was coming from the vents. The smell can range from a just a general and mild stale air kind of smell, to a full on "this smells like cat pee" kind of deal, usually when I first start the car. I've run two different types of a/c bomb through it and all that seems to do is buy me a couple of weeks before the smell is back. It just get the feeling it isn't healthy to be breathing this air continually.

So in my mind, I feel like I need to check the air filter for mould or something. I don't really know what else to look for to track the down the source of this smell. I really don't know much about car a/c systems so I'm trying to figure it out as I go along.

Odor thru air ducts is a problem. Products sold for it with assorted help. Some you spray in panel vents some everywhere.


I suggest a product similar or exactly Lysol with setting to "fresh" air, non recirculated first down thru vent by wiper blades where they turn on hood and let that run thru then spray everywhere inside.


This can also be wet from under carpet that may have to come out to fully dry out and also treated.


Real problem. If it's being a mold issue and getting wet all the time you may not win till that is sealed. Air ductwork cleaning could be extensive work.


If humid enough also check when A/C is needed that water drips if A/C is blowing cool air normally that it drips to the ground not wet the carpet. That could be cleared out.


Cabin filter could only help if wet and moldy now then question and fix is why and what to fix so it doesn't do that.


Last ditch you may need to seek pro help. There is some luck with ozone generating machines left in car.


If food something and or constantly being wet and not dried out you might not win this battle well or for any long time.


A living mold you will have to disinfect or it will come right back. Good luck. Rare but some folks get rid of cars over this if bad enough,


T

Ah I see, you've definitely cleared some things up for me there. I'll give the Lysol thing a go and start hunting for damp spots.

I was afraid this wasn't a quick fix, even when I was just going with swapping over an air filter.

Summer is just around the corner here and the a/c is going to be seeing a lot of action so I've been trying to get on top of this ASAP.

Thanks very much for your help Tom, I greatly appreciate it, and you too HT.

The smell is coming from mold that has grown on the evaporator core itself so spraying stuff in vent isn't going to do much of anything. They make some kits for this type of stuff. One of them is a foam that is shop up the drain tube. It expands, covers the evap and then drains out. What I have done sometimes is fill a bug sprayer with Lysol and drill a small hole in the evap case so I can insert the wand and spray down the evap directly.

Just thought I'd come back to update on the situation and maybe help anyone else who's in the same predicament.

Basically it turns out the cabin filter housing is the thing I suspected (even a dealer didn't realise it so my car must be a little quirky). You basically remove the 5 screws holding the cover in place and it's a much larger panel that comes off than the standard cover behind the glove box.

There was no filter in there, just a mass of old leaves and dead bees etc. So I cleaned all of that out and ordered a filter for an 02 Accent not knowing if it would even remotely resemble the filter my car needs but it fit perfectly thankfully.

I took out the filter again, put the cover back and sprayed some disinfectant into the air intakes like you recommended. We don't have Lysol in Australia, we have something that looks pretty similar. I ended up buying this Valvoline a/c spray from my local auto store.

So I did that and replaced the new filter and so far so good, haven't had that smell come back as of yet. So fingers crossed the job is done.

Thanks again for all your help, and hopefully this will help someone else in the future.

If it didn't have an easy access door to the filter then it wasn't designed to have one. The basic shape is there because some models did have it but yours did not.

The problem seems to be resolved so I will close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Note on Lysol: If hard to find brand try to find exact ingredients in another. I just know that by brand works and do use a "store brand" that's just as good. Idea is you MUST kill mold bacteria not just cover up an odor,


T

Nice find HT. I see that now as what I first thought is the vertical cover behind cable and would pull tab at bottom, top would pull down to reveal filter? Then the issue would be to match it up to the correct new one, T

Don't know about the plugs, wires, etc. From my experience, they break down when hot. My problem is when the engine is cold. I will, however, check them. Don't know about the fuel filter. Again, I think I'd have a problem all the time if there was an issue with it. Will check it, too. Thanks.

What is the rpm's at when this happens? Try take the rpms up a little higher in all gears to see if you can duplicate the problem...

I can't go through all the gears at high rpm. The speed limit is only 25. By the time I get to the freeway, the engine is warm and won't do it. I tried higher rpm in 2nd and it helped.

DON'T START IT YET! Isn't easy to know what the heck has happened to the fuel in 3 years. It's not good at best. So many formulations there's almost no way to know but trust me it's not pure gasoline - just try to find that word at a gas station!

Drain every bit you can now at least and look at some in a clear glass. It's probably at least dark with the stink you mentioned. If it's getting like any kind of salad dressing this should be all flushed out and NOT run thru the system yet. Report back but you can go ahead and tend to the battery - forget old one now and go only for new unless it was on a maintainer and new 3 years ago. Any funky features or alarms will lose or have lost memory. Don't expect it when all ready for it to plain run fine for a while no matter what.

A or B. If it doubt send this out for total cleaning out. If you want or think you can give it a go do put some solvent in it now. Careful - lots of bullcrap out there that can make things worse. SeaFoam products so far have been great - read which for which. Chevron's Techron is good. Not as many choices here but Stabil by brand does market fuel treatment for storage and some claims of reversing effects of ethanol that I'm not to sure of. Hey - items get stored seasonally all the time but not usually for three years and with fuel.

There's a procedure called "Motor Vac" that forces strong solvents thru injection items. I don't own one but those who do say they rock for cleaning injection/fuel delivery items. There's always a limit to magic anything.

Buy two fuel filters as they first new one can't be trusted for long. Lube and rustproof or put something on those flare nut fittings as those down on frame rail suk and can snap right off or twist up lines needing a kit in no time if not dealt with.

You could be ok to run it but what you do now will matter. Don't trust brakes, change oil, re-grease and any services. I should talk - check spare tire once every ten years too!

Outdoor storage usually comes with a price. You can get thru it and minimize the surprises. Good luck,

T

PS: Second fuel filter is for soon after you have it going and run for some time just toss it again. Cheap prevention.

I'd take off the fuel tank and toss all the gas in there. If the strainer sock looks contaminated on the fuel pump toss that for new one. Look inside with a light and see if the tank has any sludgy residue. If it does it will need a good steam cleaning. Like Tom said, fuel filter must go. Your lines and fuel rail have this old crap in it, so when you put it all back together leave the return line at the tank unhooked. Put your fresh gas in the tank and jump the fuel pump relay until fresh gas is coming out of that return line. Then proceed with the rest of the checklist for a vehicle left sitting three years. Be on the lookout for rodent damage. Physically take your entire air ducting apart to look for nests. Suck one down an intake and bad things happen. Get a good look at your brakes. Rotors will certainly be rusty and will feel/ sound crazy when you first drive it. Before you try to move it be sure the brakes have a good firm hold. Moving is optional, stopping isn't. Tires, rubber hoses and such may have some dry rot issues along with gaskets and seals which will begin showing themselves when you start putting mileage on it. I'd pull the blower motor down too to look for nests. Been in plenty of cars when I hit the fan switch and got peppered in the face with mouse nest coming from the vents. Seen one or two cars where the nest caused a fire in the heater box.