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2010 Mazda 3 Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-0C4CF33    W0133-1844191  New

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$16.70
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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2010 - Mazda 3
NPN
2009 Mazda 3 Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-477AE82    W0133-1766574  New

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$21.07
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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2009 - Mazda 3
ACM
2009 Mazda 3 Cabin Air Filter ACM

P311-21DC08D    W0133-1766574  New

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$23.94
ACM Cabin Air Filter
Brand: ACM
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2009 - Mazda 3
NPN
2012 Ford Focus Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-103E993    W0133-1936278  New

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$15.59
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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2012 - Ford Focus
NPN
2003 Jaguar Vanden Plas Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-08A59B0    W0133-1657018  New

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$12.63
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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2003 - Jaguar Vanden Plas
NPN
2002 Jaguar X-Type Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-57A907C    W0133-1657729  New

Qty:
$13.28
NPN Cabin Air Filter
  • *Particulate Filter* Cabin filters are generally found in one of two locations: under the hood, or under the dash board. Recommended replacement is every 12,000 to 15,000 miles, or once a year.
Brand: NPN
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2002 - Jaguar X-Type
Hengst
2005 Audi A6 Quattro Cabin Air Filter Hengst

P311-4E2AF6C    W0133-2042985  New

Qty:
$11.26
Hengst Cabin Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Particulate Filter
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2005 - Audi A6 Quattro
NPN
1996 Ford Taurus Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-24DF6FF    W0133-1705846  New

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$9.91
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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1996 - Ford Taurus
NPN
1998 Lincoln Continental Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-2909F90    W0133-1706973  New

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$11.48
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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1998 - Lincoln Continental
NPN
2001 Mercury Cougar Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-15AFF1C    W0133-1699635  New

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$13.20
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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2001 - Mercury Cougar
NPN
2006 Mazda 6 Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-142734B    W0133-1781920  New

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$15.63
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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2006 - Mazda 6
NPN
2003 Mazda 6 Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-12A967A    W0133-1622952  New

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$13.35
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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2003 - Mazda 6
NPN
2009 Mazda 6 Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-2BF1CEB    W0133-1829268  New

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$14.24
NPN Cabin Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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2009 - Mazda 6
NPN
2000 Subaru Legacy Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-3B9BBA7    W0133-1652580  New

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$22.82
NPN Cabin Air Filter
  • Set
Brand: NPN
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2000 - Subaru Legacy
NPN
2014 Land Rover LR4 Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-1BA9325    W0133-1777248  New

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$9.34
NPN Cabin Air Filter
  • Dust and Pollen Filter
Brand: NPN
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2014 - Land Rover LR4
NPN
2010 Land Rover LR4 Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-1BA9325    W0133-1777248  New

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$9.34
NPN Cabin Air Filter
  • Pollen Filter
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2010 - Land Rover LR4
Corteco
2013 Mazda CX-5 Cabin Air Filter Corteco

P311-5429BB5    W0133-1940039  New

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$21.53
Corteco Cabin Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Corteco
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2013 - Mazda CX-5
NPN
2002 Mazda MPV Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-5F3C159    W0133-1758166  New

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$12.28
NPN Cabin Air Filter
  • Production: 09/01/2002-, Sold and Priced Individually
  • Requires 2 per car
Brand: NPN
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2002 - Mazda MPV
NPN
2003 Mazda MPV Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-5F3C159    W0133-1758166  New

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$12.28
NPN Cabin Air Filter
  • Production: 09/2002-, Sold and Priced Individually
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Brand: NPN
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2003 - Mazda MPV
NPN
2004 Mazda MPV Cabin Air Filter NPN

P311-5F3C159    W0133-1758166  New

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$12.28
NPN Cabin Air Filter
  • Sold and Priced Individually
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2004 - Mazda MPV

Latest Cabin Air Filter Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Sierra Ext Cab cabin filter

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Fixit53 on Sierra Ext Cab cabin filter

I am having trouble locating my cabin air filter in my 2003 GMC Sierra 1500. I have a console, dual automatic temperatures controls

Response From Fixit53

Well that would explain it! Thanks!!

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Anytime

Response From Discretesignals

It doesn't have one.


This Article has been updated by bulletin #PIT3330, dated December 22, 2004.

Condition/Concern: A customer may inquire about the availability of the passenger compartment air filter.

Recommendation/Instructions: Starting in 2003 model year, the passenger compartment air filter is no longer available as a factory option. With the redesigned HVAC case, there is no longer a cavity for the filter. The GM parts catalog indicates there is a replacement filter available; however, there is no provision for it.

A/C only works on high after replacing cabin air filter

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From jobie on A/C only works on high after replacing cabin air filter

2004 Subaru Outback Legacy 4 cylinders 101,000 miles

Scratching my head hoping this might be a quick fix before taking my car in again for the 3rd a/c repair in 2 months.

I was trying to be a responsible mother and replace both my (engine) air filter and cabin air filter after camping in some very dusty conditions. I bought the car used and never even thought to replace the cabin air filter until after my dusty trip. Accessed my cabin air filter through the glove box and lo and behold, there never was one put in (although there are slots for one). I don't have the ability to put a filter in without the frame to pop into the casing. I returned the purchased filter to O'Reilly and replaced the glove box. Now the fan only works on high. Checked the connection where the housing for the filter goes and it seems fine. Can't be any sort of fuse or it wouldn't work at all, right? Tried to find info online and hoping this forum can give me some ideas. Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm new to DIY car repairs and basic maintenance but enjoy learning how to fix things. Even put in 4 new speakers and a stereo earlier this summer.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

By description this would be likely the blower resistor and because you have been in there AND messed with speakers plus recent A/C work can't say much for sure but it happened right when you went in there so first guess is a problem happened by going in there.

Watch out for DIY to save a buck. Mixed info on this cabin air filter so accuracy is a guess. The resistor in the area should look like this.......

/

Procedures listed could be wrong but seem involved. Best I could find is that it is in that area and no info on wire colors to test that it is working. So far I can only suggest go back and check your work that all is back exactly,

T

Response From jobie

Thanks for your response. I will look into it. I replaced the speakers months ago (and studied audio engineering so I wasn't going into the process completely blind) so it isn't related to that but yes, messing with the filter is what I suspect. It is supposed to be an easy maintenance procedure to replace the cabin air filter. I don't try and tackle things I can't handle. I will check out the information you posted.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I don't try and tackle things I can't handle.

And yet the blower worked before and not after.

Can't locate cabin air filter & disconnected hose (photos included)

Showing 4 out of 14 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From sancho on Can't locate cabin air filter & disconnected hose (photos included)

Hi, I'm just trying to replace the cabin air filter on my 02 Hyundai Accent but my car seems to be a bit unusual in that nothing seems to be set up in the way 02 Accents are supposed to be. The cabin air filter is supposed to be sat just behind the glove box but not so in my case. I had a look under the dash and found the most likely looking thing but I just wanted to make sure before I start taking out screws (there are no clips from what I can see, just screws). I've attached a few photos.

This is where the air filter is supposed to be, behind the glovebox, but it doesn't appear to be here.



This is what seems to me to be the most likely candidate for the air filter, but it seems tricky to get behind behind the screws.






Lastly, while I was under the dash, I noticed that this hose was disconnected (I haven't been under here before and I didn't touch anything this time, so I'm assuming it's been disconnected for a while). Is this some kind of drain? The a/c has been running just fine with it disconnected. Do I reconnect it?



I apologise, I know this is a pretty basic question but I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing here. Thanks in advance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You seem to be right that your pics and what I found don't match exactly and one place doesn't list a filter at all?


OK - This much of questions is that hose that's off belongs back on with or without a clamp. It's so blower motor doesn't suck in junk mostly to cool it.


Filter instructions appear different and you should be certain before messing it up AND that is really has one. Yes it would be behind glove box and more to take off than your first pic. A YouTube of it was there to sell the filter was some help but wasn't exactly yours?
Links generally not allowed but was just selling their own filter you don't have to buy from them..........



I think it's between where actuator cable goes over to the pivot and righter case where you see foam under like a one inch cover? At bottom of that might be a clip and filter slides out?


Can't say much for sure on this one, sorry to leave you to hunt more or another here may know or have better info for this exact car. Seems the exact one ended that model year? Might have to take old one if where I think it is to match up best bet a NAPA or a dealer will be thrilled of course.


Back to that hose left off: Other types of similar don't use a clamp or design hold rubber into hole. That one appears like a pinch type clamp should be on it? Also appears from foam on cable someone has been there before either for filter or something as it's torn which doesn't matter but indicative that's the spot as that cable does seem to have to move to do a filter.


Hope that's of some help. I'd rather you found more exact instructions and NOT break anything in doing this,


T

Response From sancho

Thanks Tom. Yeah I'd actually seen that video in my quest to find my air filter, that's what led me here.

Is it possible for a car not to have one? Wouldn't that cause damage to the a/c (not to mention lungs)?

If it helps, I'm in Australia, is it possible the setup is different for over here?

There's a few things about this car that have thrown me and I never thought something as simple as cabin air filter would be on that list.

After spending a while looking at it, I've come to the conclusion there really isn't anything that can actually be accessed other than those two clips on the first photo (but I'm sure there's a lot more to do to get into that) or the 5 screws on what I suspected might be the air filter. I really don't see where else it could go. Is there any harm in undoing those 5 screws or am I potentially opening up a whole new can of worms?

And thanks, the hose has been reconnected. I have no idea why it's off but it must have been that way for a while.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Actually, I be very surprised if it DID have one. They are pretty rare in those smaller cars.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - We've suggested earlier that is might not have one at all.
Damage to lungs!? Not unless you put some harsh chemical something intentionally in the thing.


Other consideration: Now you said AU as a location and if car is likely "right hand drive" the heater box is totally different than cars made left hand drive but not necessarily a 100% mirror image of the other.


Another thought is I think you said air flows thru this system just fine now - right? If so even it does have a filter it still should be working enough. I think the first issue would be lousy air flow or possibly too much odd behavior from A/C vent temps and flow.


IDK - perhaps a dealer with the VIN# ready could prove it does or doesn't have one. Again, it can't be altering the air content of gasses just removing/catching particulates such as dust and pollens.


Country of original destination of a vehicle really matters with what it will be equipped with or mandatory to have to be sold there and varies wildly depending on where. Car makers aren't stupid either and won't offer things that cost a fortune if not in high demand and or expensive to include by regulations,


T

Response From sancho

Yeah it's right hand drive, and the air flow is completely normal. The only reason I'm pretty keen to get to the air filter (if there is one) is that the car has had a musty smell since the day I bought it. After a while I realised it was coming from the vents. The smell can range from a just a general and mild stale air kind of smell, to a full on "this smells like cat pee" kind of deal, usually when I first start the car. I've run two different types of a/c bomb through it and all that seems to do is buy me a couple of weeks before the smell is back. It just get the feeling it isn't healthy to be breathing this air continually.

So in my mind, I feel like I need to check the air filter for mould or something. I don't really know what else to look for to track the down the source of this smell. I really don't know much about car a/c systems so I'm trying to figure it out as I go along.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Odor thru air ducts is a problem. Products sold for it with assorted help. Some you spray in panel vents some everywhere.


I suggest a product similar or exactly Lysol with setting to "fresh" air, non recirculated first down thru vent by wiper blades where they turn on hood and let that run thru then spray everywhere inside.


This can also be wet from under carpet that may have to come out to fully dry out and also treated.


Real problem. If it's being a mold issue and getting wet all the time you may not win till that is sealed. Air ductwork cleaning could be extensive work.


If humid enough also check when A/C is needed that water drips if A/C is blowing cool air normally that it drips to the ground not wet the carpet. That could be cleared out.


Cabin filter could only help if wet and moldy now then question and fix is why and what to fix so it doesn't do that.


Last ditch you may need to seek pro help. There is some luck with ozone generating machines left in car.


If food something and or constantly being wet and not dried out you might not win this battle well or for any long time.


A living mold you will have to disinfect or it will come right back. Good luck. Rare but some folks get rid of cars over this if bad enough,


T

Response From sancho

Ah I see, you've definitely cleared some things up for me there. I'll give the Lysol thing a go and start hunting for damp spots.

I was afraid this wasn't a quick fix, even when I was just going with swapping over an air filter.

Summer is just around the corner here and the a/c is going to be seeing a lot of action so I've been trying to get on top of this ASAP.

Thanks very much for your help Tom, I greatly appreciate it, and you too HT.

Response From Hammer Time

The smell is coming from mold that has grown on the evaporator core itself so spraying stuff in vent isn't going to do much of anything. They make some kits for this type of stuff. One of them is a foam that is shop up the drain tube. It expands, covers the evap and then drains out. What I have done sometimes is fill a bug sprayer with Lysol and drill a small hole in the evap case so I can insert the wand and spray down the evap directly.

Response From sancho

Just thought I'd come back to update on the situation and maybe help anyone else who's in the same predicament.

Basically it turns out the cabin filter housing is the thing I suspected (even a dealer didn't realise it so my car must be a little quirky). You basically remove the 5 screws holding the cover in place and it's a much larger panel that comes off than the standard cover behind the glove box.

There was no filter in there, just a mass of old leaves and dead bees etc. So I cleaned all of that out and ordered a filter for an 02 Accent not knowing if it would even remotely resemble the filter my car needs but it fit perfectly thankfully.

I took out the filter again, put the cover back and sprayed some disinfectant into the air intakes like you recommended. We don't have Lysol in Australia, we have something that looks pretty similar. I ended up buying this Valvoline a/c spray from my local auto store.

So I did that and replaced the new filter and so far so good, haven't had that smell come back as of yet. So fingers crossed the job is done.

Thanks again for all your help, and hopefully this will help someone else in the future.

Response From Hammer Time

If it didn't have an easy access door to the filter then it wasn't designed to have one. The basic shape is there because some models did have it but yours did not.

The problem seems to be resolved so I will close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Note on Lysol: If hard to find brand try to find exact ingredients in another. I just know that by brand works and do use a "store brand" that's just as good. Idea is you MUST kill mold bacteria not just cover up an odor,


T

Response From Hammer Time

IF the car has one, it will be vertical, on the right side.



Response From Tom Greenleaf

Nice find HT. I see that now as what I first thought is the vertical cover behind cable and would pull tab at bottom, top would pull down to reveal filter? Then the issue would be to match it up to the correct new one, T

Jumpy Engine

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From bnmotorsgt on Jumpy Engine

2000 Nissan Maxima 3.1L (I think). When the engine is cold and driving around 25-30 mph in 3rd (std trans), the car bucks as though I'm in too high gear for my speed. Only does this when the engine is COLD. Dealer said to "use a lower gear". That keeps it from bucking as much, but still, it shouldn't do it at all. Never did it until a dealer did changed the cabin air filter. Don't know what else he did. Local dealer can't duplicate problem and says everything is fine.

Response From brager Top Rated Answer

it could be a coincidence this happened after leaving the dealer no way changing a cabin air filter
would do that to your car few basic things come to mined i like to start with the basic items
1st that way you can rule them out and put them behind you and move on. has the fuel filter
ever been changed ? how old are your spark plugs mileage wise? and spark plug wires?

Response From bnmotorsgt

Don't know about the plugs, wires, etc. From my experience, they break down when hot. My problem is when the engine is cold. I will, however, check them. Don't know about the fuel filter. Again, I think I'd have a problem all the time if there was an issue with it. Will check it, too. Thanks.

Response From Sidom

What is the rpm's at when this happens? Try take the rpms up a little higher in all gears to see if you can duplicate the problem...

Response From bnmotorsgt

I can't go through all the gears at high rpm. The speed limit is only 25. By the time I get to the freeway, the engine is warm and won't do it. I tried higher rpm in 2nd and it helped.

old gas in vehicle

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From sssscottt28 on old gas in vehicle

I have a 99 Chevy Silverado LS 2500 4x4 with a vortec 6000 engine and it has been sitting in my drive way for 3 Yrs now. The fuel smells bad. It has about a quarter of a tank of fuel. I have not tried to start it. It has 160,000 mi. It would be great if I could get some information on the best way to drain and flush the system without doing damage to any of the components. I know that replacing some of these may not be avoidable. If you have the time and can respond to this message it would be very helpful. Thank you for your time.
Scott

Response From Tom Greenleaf

DON'T START IT YET! Isn't easy to know what the heck has happened to the fuel in 3 years. It's not good at best. So many formulations there's almost no way to know but trust me it's not pure gasoline - just try to find that word at a gas station!

Drain every bit you can now at least and look at some in a clear glass. It's probably at least dark with the stink you mentioned. If it's getting like any kind of salad dressing this should be all flushed out and NOT run thru the system yet. Report back but you can go ahead and tend to the battery - forget old one now and go only for new unless it was on a maintainer and new 3 years ago. Any funky features or alarms will lose or have lost memory. Don't expect it when all ready for it to plain run fine for a while no matter what.

A or B. If it doubt send this out for total cleaning out. If you want or think you can give it a go do put some solvent in it now. Careful - lots of bullcrap out there that can make things worse. SeaFoam products so far have been great - read which for which. Chevron's Techron is good. Not as many choices here but Stabil by brand does market fuel treatment for storage and some claims of reversing effects of ethanol that I'm not to sure of. Hey - items get stored seasonally all the time but not usually for three years and with fuel.

There's a procedure called "Motor Vac" that forces strong solvents thru injection items. I don't own one but those who do say they rock for cleaning injection/fuel delivery items. There's always a limit to magic anything.

Buy two fuel filters as they first new one can't be trusted for long. Lube and rustproof or put something on those flare nut fittings as those down on frame rail suk and can snap right off or twist up lines needing a kit in no time if not dealt with.

You could be ok to run it but what you do now will matter. Don't trust brakes, change oil, re-grease and any services. I should talk - check spare tire once every ten years too!

Outdoor storage usually comes with a price. You can get thru it and minimize the surprises. Good luck,

T

PS: Second fuel filter is for soon after you have it going and run for some time just toss it again. Cheap prevention.

Response From nickwarner

I'd take off the fuel tank and toss all the gas in there. If the strainer sock looks contaminated on the fuel pump toss that for new one. Look inside with a light and see if the tank has any sludgy residue. If it does it will need a good steam cleaning. Like Tom said, fuel filter must go. Your lines and fuel rail have this old crap in it, so when you put it all back together leave the return line at the tank unhooked. Put your fresh gas in the tank and jump the fuel pump relay until fresh gas is coming out of that return line. Then proceed with the rest of the checklist for a vehicle left sitting three years. Be on the lookout for rodent damage. Physically take your entire air ducting apart to look for nests. Suck one down an intake and bad things happen. Get a good look at your brakes. Rotors will certainly be rusty and will feel/ sound crazy when you first drive it. Before you try to move it be sure the brakes have a good firm hold. Moving is optional, stopping isn't. Tires, rubber hoses and such may have some dry rot issues along with gaskets and seals which will begin showing themselves when you start putting mileage on it. I'd pull the blower motor down too to look for nests. Been in plenty of cars when I hit the fan switch and got peppered in the face with mouse nest coming from the vents. Seen one or two cars where the nest caused a fire in the heater box.

Response From MarineGrunt Top Rated Answer

Speaking of mouse nests I had one get into the wife's minivan last year and that's when the vehicle was an everyday driver. It chewed up the wire that runs to the fuse block that controls the hvac so can only imagine what they might've done if it wouldn't have been driven for awhile. I still have to trace down that wire and fix it correctly. I found the nest. It was inside the cabin air filter that's located behind the glove box. I could be wrong but I believe some GM trucks have the in cabin air filters so that may be a good place to check too.