802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Buy Discount Buick Terraza Parts

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle

Choose a Year for your Buick Terraza

  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005

Showing 1 - 10 of 2,863 Products.

Refine Your Search

Husky Liners
2007 Buick Terraza Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump 3rd Seat Floor Mat~ May Require Trimming For Correct Fit/Trim Guides Molded In Mat
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Buick Terraza Rear
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $36.16
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Buick Terraza V 6 Cyl 3.9L 237 3880
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $36.16
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Buick Terraza FLEX V 6 Cyl 3.9L 237 3880
ACDelco
2007 Buick Terraza Engine Mount ACDelco

P311-0335AFF    W0133-1976490  New

Qty:
$165.83
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Buick Terraza
ACDelco
2005 Buick Terraza Vapor Canister Purge Valve ACDelco

P311-24184F9    W0133-1865944  New

Qty:
$43.69
ACDelco Vapor Canister Purge Valve
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Location - Engine Bay
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Buick Terraza
ACDelco
2005 Buick Terraza Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid ACDelco

P311-24184F9    W0133-1865944  New

Qty:
$43.69
ACDelco Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Location - Engine Bay
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Buick Terraza
Dorman
2005 Buick Terraza Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid Dorman

P311-1D51FCA    W0133-1865944  New

Qty:
$54.96
  • Location - Engine Bay
  • Location - Engine Bay - Purge Valve / Solenoid Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Buick Terraza
ACDelco
2005 Buick Terraza Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly ACDelco

P311-2397520    W0133-2355148  New

Qty:
$291.17
ACDelco Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2005 - Buick Terraza AWD
ACDelco
2006 Buick Terraza Spark Plug 6 Cyl 3.5L ACDelco

P311-2AC5391    W0133-2043348  New

Qty:
$19.02
ACDelco Spark Plug
  • Professional Rapidfire
  • Rapidfire
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Buick Terraza V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 -
GMB
2006 Buick Terraza Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L GMB

P311-432652E    W0133-1692098  New

Qty:
$38.22
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Buick Terraza V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 -

Showing 1 - 10 of 2,863 Products.


Latest Buick Terraza Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2005 Buick Terraza Won't roll over

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From dolejaly on 2005 Buick Terraza Won't roll over

How can you reset the security system on a 2005 Buick Terraza? The Van will not even roll over but yet have power.

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have a security light/warning on or flashing when you try to start it?

What led up to this and what have you tried or checked?

Response From dolejaly Top Rated Answer

after removing and checking the fuses for the cruise control, pulled and checked 2 fuses pulled the throttle control fuse is when the problem started afterwards, went to start and the service traction control light came on. there are no lights for the shift indicator. computer says no personal options avaible when not in park

Response From Hammer Time

It sounds like you are causing some of your own problems by pulling fuses out.

You will need a professional scan tool to access the factory side of the system and see what it has for codes.

Response From dolejaly

It's my father inlaws van, I guess the cruise control quit working, which is why he pulled fuses out. He just bought it a few days ago.

Response From Hammer Time

You don't test fuses by removing them. You use a test light and test both ends of them while they are in place. You can end up causing modules to lose their memory/programming.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Back to first post. "Security System" - Owner's manual should discuss that but why do you suspect that? I have no exact clue but would think info on it would have come with it new and possibly just stuck the procedure in the glovebox.

As Hammer Time just said - pulling fuses you are likely resetting things and if it wasn't some "security" issue just might be now even if not the original reason it won't crank? "Rollover!" I get the idea but to me that means something like going way too fast on a corner and the vehicle rolls over!

I don't know what or how the "security" system is supposed to work in every vehicle made. I would hope it wouldn't crank at all to save the starter at least and probably flash headlights (maybe horn that got annoying) to attract attention.

T

Response From dolejaly

I guess he is going to call the dealership tomorrow and see what he can do. Thanks for your input, hopefully he gets it figured out......

Blend door stop tabs broken

Showing 4 out of 31 Posts | Show 27 Hidden Posts
Question From rsippel on Blend door stop tabs broken

I have a 2005 Buick Terraza. The right side blows cold only--dual temp controls (manual). I pulled the glove box and looked at the blend door actuator. The actuator moves on command from the temp dial, but it moves too far out of range and disengages the two gears. There are two platic tabs that broken off the heater box that were there to limit the range of the actuator gear.

I was thinking of just epoxying the tabs back on. But I am not sure the actuator will not break them off again. What stops the actuator when it hits the tabs? Could the actuator be bad and stopping when it should? Or is the top point controlled by the temp dial or HVAC head unit? I can get the actuator to work in my hand, but not sure how to test if will stop when it is suppose to.

Response From Sidom

A lot of times those outside gears will come with the new actuator if you get one from the dealer..... Go down to the dealer and look at one they have in stock & see if it is what you need...

If the tabs you are talking about is part of the box, gluing won't work but if you can get a sheet metal screw to go in place where the tab was, that may work as a stop.....

Response From rsippel

Well that was my idea as well. The tabs can be placed back in on their sides giving about a 1/2 x 3/4 inch flat surface to epoxy. Was thinking I would scratch both surfaces and then epoxy (maybe with a jb weld for plastic) . then put a small-short screw through the tab and into the box surface. Just didn't want to go too far in so as not to screw into something else inside and create a bigger problem.

Response From rsippel

Well i guess I will just try it. Only real concern I have is whether the actuator will stop at the new tabs or if something else is wrong and not calibrating the stop positions.

Thanks for all your comments and advice.

Response From Sidom

It's too bad you could post a picture or something... I'm having a hard time picturing these "stops" you are talking about..

Usually on these type of problems it's a bad actuator. You see this happen when the battery gets disconnected without a memory saver & then hooked back up again.....The actuator breaks on relearn...

Response From rsippel

Okay trying to attach picture, but I don't see how to attach a pic to the reply.

Response From Hammer Time

You have to upload it to an image hosting site like Photobucket or Imageshack and they supply a link to post in your answer that makes the pic show up here.

Response From rsippel

Okay took the imageshack advice. If all works, there should be an image of the book diagram with a comment. IF this isn't clear I will take a pic of the actual vehicle. Try this link.

Response From rsippel

Here is another pic of the actual vehicle. Again, the actuator sit over the gears with actuator shaft inserted into the center of the left gear. The light colored L shaped markings left of the left gear is where the tabs were that have broken off. As you can see they set the L/R limit of the gear. Image

Response From Hammer Time

I doubt crazy glue alone is going to hold them. I would try first getting them set in place with crazy glue and then use some JB weld or equivalent to reinforce them but make sure you don't put the epoxy where it will interfere. Do not connect the battery until it is completely dry.Otherwise it's going to mean replacing the whole housing to resolve that.

Response From rsippel

Never intended to use glue. As you can see in the photo, I have begun to scratch up the surface. I have made two plactic tabs that I will epoxy in place with JB-weld. I was also planning on putting a screw through the new tabs into the box. I drilled a very small hole in the box to check for the screws interference with other doors. Looks like I will have enough clearance for a short screw through the tabs and into the box.

Response From Hammer Time

Don't penetrate anything through the case as it will likely interfere with the door sweep.

Response From rsippel

Thanks for the reminder about the battery. I have the actuator disconnected now, and I will disconect the battery before I hook it back up. As for the box, I drilled a very small hole and inserted a small very small rod in the holes at the depth the screw would go in. I then cycled through all the HVAC functions of defrost through lower vents and manipulated the blend doors. Nothing seemed to interfere. I did find if I went further in, it would hit a door. But at the planned depth all was fine.

Response From Sidom

I haven't seen that setup before.....Like HT said, the ones I've seen use the door itself as the stop.
Next one I get into the shop I'm going to have to check out.

This looks like a poor design if it is using those tabs as stops. Those actuator use so much force on relearn, it's no doubt it broke....

The picture I had imagined had the stops as a little heavier duty & shorter than that.....Boy I don't know if gluing & attaching fasteners will work...

Good luck

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yikes! Ah..... suks. I'll stay out because this is going to take a lot of being there to really decide the best products to fix this. Any way to know how thick it is where you want to put a stop and what is behind it?

Just ideas: Forget glues. "SuperGlue" - JB Weld probably won't stay stuck. Hey - even I'd have to study it but would probably make a hot melted hole or two (maintains strength better than drilling) and see if you can make an "L" stop out of galvanized metal & decide on lag threaded screws or if you can thru bolt it in.

Yep - hardware store crap. There's rolled galvy strap metal with holes already in it or whatever you can find or make to work with enough clearance for the operation. Think of how hot and how cold it can get AND damp. Nothing that can rust.

I'm going crosseyed thinking Dremel tool bits and whatever but it can be done better than that OE crap design. Good luck,

T

Response From Sidom

Super glue, plumber's strap & a hersey bar............Damn Tom.....You're more of a macgyver than me........lmao

Response From Hammer Time

Brian, don't even try to tell me that you don't have Crazy glue and JB in your tool box.

Response From Sidom


Brian, don't even try to tell me that you don't have Crazy glue and JB in your tool box.


Lots of crazy glue & tie straps..............No JB.....I aint got the time or patiences.............LMAO

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One more and said I'd stay out. Restored stuff where love nor money was going to do. Not talking about red-necking it but make it so it will not be a problem again, that's all. Plastics are not cooperative nor most glues. Try a radiator end tank fix - won't happen........ T

Response From Hammer Time

I'm still a little confused as to what you are referring to as "stops". As a rule, these things have no stops. The door itself reaching the end of it's travel is the stop.

Response From Hammer Time

Don't think epoxy is going to do the trick there. If you Google "Blend door repairs" you will see some stuff that people have done but the only real good repair is a new door and that means ripping the dash out.

Response From Discretesignals

The actuator's circuitry detects the servo motor stall as the door hits its stop. The stalling of the motor causes a surge in current the circuitry in the actuator detects, so the circuitry kills the servo when the motor stalls. There is also a potentiometer inside the actuator that a climate control processor uses as an input to determine the position of the door. The computer has to learn the position of the door by stalling it at both its open and closed positions, so it is able to properly position the door depending on the desired temperature selection. The stall puts stress on the door linkage. The design of the door or the strength of the plastic is the factor if the door can handle the stress during calibration or during the motor's stall. The gears inside the actuator can also break when overstressed because they are plastic, which is a common problem too.

Response From rsippel

Thanks for the reply. The doors are still working fine and the actuator moves on command. The stop tabs that are broken are on the outside of the housing box. There are two larger gears on the outside. One that is connected to the doors. The 2nd gear drives the door gear and it is this gear that the actuator gear inserts into. It is also this gear that hits the stop tabs on the outside of the box to limit its range. My only conern is fixing the stops, but not solving the problem. Is there a way to tell if the actuator is recalculating at the stop point and not trying to push further and breaking the tabs again?

Response From Discretesignals

Well, you could plug the motor in and then attempt to stall it manually. If the actuator peels the skin off your fingers, then you know there is something up with it...LOL

Response From rsippel

Well that got me laughing as well. I tryied the hand/finger stop earlier, but learned quick that these things are strong. I was able to stop it "sometimes" and sometimes I let go before the skin tore off ! Thought there had to be a better method to stop it and if it didn't stop was it the actuator to the temp control?? That was issue I was trying to sort out.

Response From Discretesignals

It's hard to say what kind of force you have to apply to the shaft before the servo is turned off. There aren't specifications of this in service data. You almost need some sort of device to attach to the end of the motor that applies resistance to the shaft and measures the amount of torque. Almost like a dyno for measuring torque of an engine, but one for a door actuator. The cut off point is the maximum amount of torque the servo achieves before it is turned off.

You would still need the specifications to compare your results too. You could get another servo and do your finger comparision to see if there is a difference.

Response From rsippel

Well given the actuator moves on command I guess I will assume it is not faulty and just try my epoxy method. If it stops, good. If it breaks then I will try something else. I just wanted to rule out a faulty actuator or other faulty control that may have been causing the actuator to travel too far even after hitting the tabs and breaking the tabs.

Response From Discretesignals

There are several factory service bulletins (TSB) on problems with HVAC door performance, but none are addressing the tabs breaking off. All of the TSBs state to reprogram the HVAC control module with an updated calibration. Might not be a bad idea to have the dealer or someone with the ability to program the HVAC module with the latest and greatest software after your repair.


Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to test another actuator to see if it takes a lot of force to stop it.

Response From rsippel

I understand the epoxy may or may not hold the tabs in place. But before I try it, I wanted to know if the actuator was responisble for stopping the motor at the point where it hits the stops. Could the actuator be bad and not stopping? and is there a test for this? Or is it controlled by the temp dial at the head.

i don't want to try fixing the tabs unless I am sure there isn't another problem that doesn't allow the sactuator to stop when it hits the tabs.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It goes through a self calibration against the stops so it has to be strong enough

Response From rsippel

I want to try it, it is not just replacing the door. The stop tabs are on the outside of the whole box that include the doors inside. The stop tabs are to stop the actuator gear on the outside the box...so it would be replacing the entire box not just the door.

Just wasn't sure how to test that it will actually recalibrate and stop. Wasn't sure if they broke becasue they were weak or whether the actuator or temp control was bad and not telling the actuator motor to stop???