802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Brakes

Choose a Year for your Lexus 's Brakes

  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Monroe

Best Selling Genuine Lexus Brakes

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Lexus Replacement Brakes Parts

We stock Brakes parts for most Lexus models, including LX470.

Sorry, no results were found.

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Brake rotors and brake pads replacement

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From philibai on Brake rotors and brake pads replacement

Hey guys,

I am considering replacing my brake pads on my car. I have a 2005 Lexus RX330 AWD with roughly 41k miles on it. Lexus dealerships are telling me I have two options. Option 1, replace the pads and resurface my rotors. Option 2, I should replace my pads and rotors. I have never had any experience on replacing rotors or resurfacing rotors. From my experience with my previous two Lexus, I only needed to replace my car pads and my car was good to go. I never needed to resurface my brake rotors.

Is this another way, that Lexus dealerships are trying to scam money off me? Will Option 1 be enough for me or do I really need to consider on replacing my pads and rotors?

Thanks guys

Response From Hammer Time

No, they are giving you 100% fact. It is important for the new pads to have a fresh, clean, flat surface to ride on or you will encounter noises and all the reasons people complain about their brake jobs. At that mileage, as long as the old pads didn't go metal to metal, resurfacing should be sufficient. They have to be measured for minimum thickness before being turned anyway but that shouldn't be a problem with that mileage.

Response From philibai

They told me that I will probably need to replace the from rotors because the front rotors take more abuse from braking. Is this a reasonable statement?

Thanks for much for your expertise.

Response From Hammer Time

Not likely on your car. They are exaggerating unless you are very hard on the brakes. They would rather replace than machining but it shouldn't be necessary unless the brakes were abused.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

As said the rotors can be measured as to whether they need to go or could be resurfaced. They must be a certain thickness even after the machining or frequently warp and you won't be happy.

I'm shocked at the junk mail I see that claims just pad replacement which is really just bait to get you there and tell you they really can't do just that and if they are it's irresponsible auto service!

Quality new would be my suggestion. Rotors don't come with lot's of extra metal to machine off anymore. They days of doing that for three or more brake jobs are over. Cars don't weigh 10 tons either!


Response From way2old

Resurfacing or replacing rotors are not scams. Proper brake jobs are completed by resurfacing ot replacing the rotors. Just replacing the pads may be good enough for you in the drivewayt, but there are liabilities the dealer has to be careful of. So If the dealer or a shop does them, they should address the rotors.

96 lexus abs trouble

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From t3star on 96 lexus abs trouble

I have 96 lexus 300 ex, everytime i apply the brakes the abs system is activated, why does it do that and how do i fix it?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Nice safety feature - huh?

Arggh! You decide if you drive the car at all this way - I'm not there to see how it can stop or suggest on that

Seems like a sensor is sending info that the car is in a skid. No way to know from here but it should get a code reading for ABS and a check of sensors at the wheels to see if something visual is even wrong there.

I have seen just conductive dirt/brake dust etc., make a signal and set off the anti-lock action but those also showed a warning light on dash.

Most ABS systems are designed such that they default to regular braking action if there's a fault. So much as removing a fuse dedicated to just ABS or a blown one would do that AND signal the warning on dash and brakes should default to non ABS feel and action.

I won't suggest the car be driven at all on the open web with brake problems of the sort. Obviously it's potentially dangerous as is,


05 VW Brake pads.

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From jayceevee24 on 05 VW Brake pads.

2005 Volkswagen Passat All-wheel drive Wagon 2.8 L V-6 70,000 miles. Can I just replace the brake pads ($175 at local mechanic), or do I have to replace the rotors too, as Volkswagen suggests ($1,000 at VW)? Pads are thin.

Response From Hammer Time

It needs to be inspected to answer that question but it's pretty standard for VWs to replace rotors with pads. They are engineered with softer metal for better friction and braking but that causes just as much wear to the rotors as the pads. If they are dished out, no question it needs them.

The prices sound a but excessive though it's possible. I did a BMW today that was $1000.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>I did a BMW today that was $1000.<<
Gotta love those European cars!

Response From steve01832

I'm sorry HT that you were subjected to such torture. I think you should get the rest of the week off with pay. I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.


Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer. << Or deal with their owners.

Response From steve01832

Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.


Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Ah, you understand what I meant. LOL. Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

Response From Hammer Time

Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

In my part of town, they are just spare cars that are left here all summer so they will have a car to drive when they come down here.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

You gotta get used to it in my part of town. Remember, my shop is right on the beach in a resort community. Everything's a Lexus, a Beemer or a Mercedes and the Lexus never breaks............ I hate em.

Response From steve01832

Where I live it's Hondas and Kias baby. Let's soup 'em up, chop 'em down, and listen to the angry swarm of bees due to their tomato soup can size mufflers. LMAO


Response From steve01832

Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

This has to be said in the Thurston Howell III accent to get the full effect.


1991 Lexus LS 400 Warning Lights when accelerating

Showing 4 out of 10 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From mainogre on 1991 Lexus LS 400 Warning Lights when accelerating

hi, I own a 1991 Lexus LS 400. When i accelerate every warning light turns on (oil, battery, traction control, coolant, e-brake, engine). When i decelerate they all turn off. When idling they are all off. Only when i accelerate is when they turn on or at high speeds of 50mph+. I did just replace the battery about 1 month ago. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response From speed

have the codes read at your local parts store, autozone, advanced auto, o'rileys, they will be able to scan the engine codes. you also may watn to think about just takin it to a reputable shop to begin with, this is a difficult thing to diagnose over the internet and not actually being there

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a thought on this - check all engine to body grounds especially with the battery replacement one or more could have been disturbed?


Response From mainogre

Well the morning after I posted the original message, i went to start my car and it was dead........ Last night I noticed there was battery acid dust around the positive connector. I cleaned it off, then jumped my car. I drove the car for about 7 miles with no problems (no warning lights and car ran fine, it didn't want to die). I even sat in a McDonalds drive-thru for 10 minutes at idle. I parked it at home and went to bed. In the morning, the car was completely dead........ Since my car wasn't dying on the road while driving it, wouldn't that mean I have a bad battery? Thanks for the help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You'll have to test the battery out AFTER charging it. This going dead is killing it. Check what may have been damaged by battery acid and replace the corroded cable then check it out. May have a drain going on too which is also hard on battery and charging system,


Response From mainogre Top Rated Answer

thanks I'll give it a try and let ya know within the next few days.

BTW what causes a battery drain anyways? a loose connection?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Battery drain could be lots of things like a short of something or something is staying on that shouldn't like even a glove box or trunk light. In that your symptoms were when accelerating when engine would tilt a bit normally on it's mounts and now the corroded battery terminal something is up IMO.

When a regular lead-acid battery is low the chance of spitting acid around is up there and wiring of things near that would need inspecting. That load on the alternator to charge it back up even if enough amps left to start is hard on both battery and alternator. You can end up needing both and power surges can wreck control modules which you don't want either.

Just recently (retired long time now) jumped a family vehicle with interior lights that had been left on so dead as a door nail. Left my vehicle and the dead one hooked up so both were charging a hopelessly dead battery but got it going and 20 minutes later stopped as both alternators were red hot. Just by feel couldn't keep a hand on either and don't get hurt by moving parts if you try that. Got that car to my shop to charge with charger instead of letting alternators do it and so far so good that neither burned anything out.

If you don't have or get even a floating low amp battery charger ~$21 or so AND there's a simple device that just gives you exact digital voltage that just pushes into any cig lighter or power port - neat as you can see the real voltage and how much it drops when an item is turned on. I like that better than trusting a gauge and for vehicles with just a warning light it can give you advance warning of a problem. Cool gadget for the ~$12 bucks!

Not everything for basic care costs that much and you can use it again on another.

In that you think battery should be good (sometimes they get dropped in handling and rendered NG) before you got it you may need some added testing and can short inside and self drain by themselves.

Some may need some help to determine that or a parasitic draw/drain elsewhere,


Response From mainogre

hey tom thanks for all the help. So today i had the battery tested and it came back ok. i bought one of those cigarette lighter voltage meter things and hooked up my charged battery and turned the car on. The voltage was way too high. 17.5v. so would that mean my alternator is stuck on? ive also heard that it could mean that the voltage regulator needs to be replaced. i know some regulators are built inside the alternator and some are on the outside. if it were on the outside i would like i could fix that? thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

New alternator

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm tired - sorry but if you see 17.5 volts your alternator is NOT regulated and will cause damage to about anything in this car,